I just did this job today. You don't need to remove the intake manifold... If you remove the intake ducting crap with the MAF and the idle air control valve bracket, you can reach in there and remove the little air box.
As many has mentioned, there is absolutely no need to remove the intake (unless you need to do the gasket wich always is a good idea). You need a double extention for the front bolt and a double extention plus a U-joint for the back bolt going in from between the throttle body and the dipstick. Actually, if you remove the idle air control valve, wich is a good idea anyhow, you can just use a small ratchet directly from underneath the intake, no need for going in from above the intake. Important is to lift the box straight up to not damage the tube going down through the pan, it helps to remove connectors to temp sensors etc to make room. Well worth doing this regularly, easier and cheaper than doing RMS.
What year is this 240? There were two models of flame trap. The older one had a short, straight tube instead of the slightly longer one with a curve. Please provide a little more information so that I don't order the wrong part/s.
VERY WELL PUT TOGETHER INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO. Clear precise and great talking - no overspeaking!! "On my 740 all I do is remove the throttle body , IAC and big air hose. I remove the oil trap box and install a new one. I do this at 100k intervals. Takes me about 1-2 hrs and I take my time." The above quotation is copied from a VolvoForums comment.
Great vid, thank you: I'm new to Ovlovs and have been warned to clean this system on my 'new' '90 245 with 325K kms. LIke adjusting the valves on old Benz engines, this job seems to seldom get done on Volvos
But if it pays off like setting the valves on my OM617 did, I'll be a happy boy. I've cleaned out that flame trap at least half a dozen times in the about 16 years, replaced it once. now I'm finally about to do swap the box.
Great job on this video, and the previous one on taking off the manifold. You made a fairly big job look approachable with your sequenced steps, and clear directions. Well done indeed.
you didn't just put them hoses and rubber things together with out silicon paste ? you need this to make every thing seat and seal correctly.....PASTE every time !
I just finished the PCV system overhaul on my 240 and got it back on the road. God knows when it was last done, because the flame trap was about 90% blocked. This video and the previous intake manifold video were really helpful, particularly disconnecting the fuel pump relay to depressurize the fuel system, since I couldn't identify which fuse was for the fuel pump. Thanks for posting!
@@clintonr60 IPD has this pic on the PCV service kit. www.ipdusa.com/uploads/images_products_slideshow/fullsize_37269.jpg I am not sure what drain on the lower block or on this PCV service kit are you referring to.
Sloppy gloves,and sloppy work. You failed to clean the area where the parts were to be replaced, potentially, allowing debris around the mating surface of the oil trap to engine block,to enter into the oil pump gear. So a big thumbs down.
I just did this job today. You don't need to remove the intake manifold...
If you remove the intake ducting crap with the MAF and the idle air control valve bracket, you can reach in there and remove the little air box.
You don't have to take off the manifold I just did it without taking it off
your clean white clothes make me anxious!
As many has mentioned, there is absolutely no need to remove the intake (unless you need to do the gasket wich always is a good idea). You need a double extention for the front bolt and a double extention plus a U-joint for the back bolt going in from between the throttle body and the dipstick. Actually, if you remove the idle air control valve, wich is a good idea anyhow, you can just use a small ratchet directly from underneath the intake, no need for going in from above the intake. Important is to lift the box straight up to not damage the tube going down through the pan, it helps to remove connectors to temp sensors etc to make room. Well worth doing this regularly, easier and cheaper than doing RMS.
I was able to replace mine by just removing the throttle body. Though it was a tight squeeze.
What year is this 240? There were two models of flame trap. The older one had a short, straight tube instead of the slightly longer one with a curve. Please provide a little more information so that I don't order the wrong part/s.
VERY WELL PUT TOGETHER INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO. Clear precise and great talking - no overspeaking!!
"On my 740 all I do is remove the throttle body , IAC and big air hose. I remove the oil trap box and install a new one. I do this at 100k intervals. Takes me about 1-2 hrs and I take my time."
The above quotation is copied from a VolvoForums comment.
Yeah it's the same with the 240 but you unplug some sensors too
great video , I wouldn't be able to work on my car with a white outfit!!!
Great vid, thank you: I'm new to Ovlovs and have been warned to clean this system on my 'new' '90 245 with 325K kms.
LIke adjusting the valves on old Benz engines, this job seems to seldom get done on Volvos
But if it pays off like setting the valves on my OM617 did, I'll be a happy boy.
I've cleaned out that flame trap at least half a dozen times in the about 16 years, replaced it once. now I'm finally about to do swap the box.
What was that metal piece you trransferred to the new blk box ?
Great job on this video, and the previous one on taking off the manifold.
You made a fairly big job look approachable with your sequenced steps, and clear directions. Well done indeed.
Thanks! ❤
Awesome information, tutorial do÷s c this work on the 760 Turbo.
Did it pass Smog , because of PCV repair only.
you didn't just put them hoses and rubber things together with out silicon paste ? you need this to make every thing seat and seal correctly.....PASTE every time !
Wtf massi im just trying to learn about volvos and i find your UA-cam
I just finished the PCV system overhaul on my 240 and got it back on the road. God knows when it was last done, because the flame trap was about 90% blocked.
This video and the previous intake manifold video were really helpful, particularly disconnecting the fuel pump relay to depressurize the fuel system, since I couldn't identify which fuse was for the fuel pump. Thanks for posting!
Didnt even know there was such box!😎😬😅
Had mine blow in central/west maryland, where the local mechanic said yeah, he worked on volvos and all those other german cars. Nightmare.
You didn't replace the drain bro..
I think he did, look at 6:20, the new flame trap comes with a new white drain.
@@dr.magnanimous8973 no.. the drain on the block brother
@@clintonr60 What exactly are you referring to? Do you have a link where I can see? Much appreciated.
@@clintonr60 IPD has this pic on the PCV service kit. www.ipdusa.com/uploads/images_products_slideshow/fullsize_37269.jpg
I am not sure what drain on the lower block or on this PCV service kit are you referring to.
@@dr.magnanimous8973 it's H in the diagram 👍 anyone who's does a video on pcv replacement never replace it. I have no clue why..
Sloppy gloves,and sloppy work. You failed to clean the area where the parts were to be replaced, potentially, allowing debris around the mating surface of the oil trap to engine block,to enter into the oil pump gear. So a big thumbs down.