Those Defendery things are a bugger to retrofit parts like that If the chassis has fixed tabs to hold the tub on, you fix the tub first as you cannot go backwards or forwards, and then work forwards which is why the bulkhead has shims on the bottom pin and slots for the inner wing etc Rebuild rookie mistake is always fitting the bulkhead first and bolting it to the outrigger then when you get to the back - there is a gap Also this is how they set the door gaps for the front at 34 3/4 inch parallel on the regulars Took me a while to figure it out - than the Lord for slots and shims! Hey ho! Keeps you off the streets! Mike
I used yrm replacement lower C pillars and had exactly the same problems you had. I refabricated the sections, moved the bracket. Even the lip for the door seal was several mm deeper than origional. All other parts that I was letting these into were origional, no chassis repairs either, origional chassis. I bought from yrm as about 15yrs ago I used several of their panels to refurbish my series seat box and they fitted mint.
Arkonik essentially strip down to bare chassis and build up from scratch with all new panels (including their very own pressed bulkheads) so I'm not surprised that they manage ok with the YRM parts. Went at the weekend, they had some old frame sections for sale.
I note the pvc tape, i assume this is factory technique, i haven't done any extensive body repairs yet but have been using epdm as a gasket between the ally and steel, epdm is used in a lot of cladding / curtain walling applications where corrosion if not controlled can be a quite an issue particularly in high rise construction, this is the same principle in using non austinetic stainless steel in fixings for, yep, cladding applications.
The crusty aluminium bits will get replaced in the distant future, so i'm not so worried about those. I have dinitroled inside the B/C posts and will do along the sill rails too 👍
Got to do mine as it's failed its MOT on the C pillar. B pillar doesn't look good either so thinking of swapping it all. Would the separate YRM kit have solved the alignment issue? I know you would then have to do the welding of the B and C pillar to the sill.
I'm guessing this is the what you meant by "what I know now" from the first video! I'm planning on completely taking mine apart from the bulkhead back, replacing the RH and LH tub skins, cappings and rear quarters. Do you think this would still be an issue or would you buy it unassembled? Thanks for the video, it's always good when someone does it before you :)
Yes it is 😉 I think you'll have more chance to align it properly if the rear tub comes off. It was only rear the C post to rear tub bracket that I have an issue with. The rest is very well aligned. Replacing the rear tub skin you'll at least get a chance to match the C post and tub together by drilling them 👍
get yourself a load of stainless bolts dome head hex or spline look much better mine has them everywere also make gaskets between ally and steel parts it really works i used damp cource material cut to size along with stainless nuts and bolts totally amazing
Well done, I’ve built two five door land rovers, 110 and a series 2a , I had the same issues has you with the 110 but the series had know seat box or kick panel floors in etc, I enjoy your videos, keep them coming,
I was saying ... roof ... roof needs to go up 🤣 Not a bad job. They never fit properly. Mine are original with the same tub but now it's on a different chassis those holes don't line up either. They rarely do. Cutting the galv is an option but needs to be done with a lot of PPE, expecially when welding. Nasty stuff when vapourised!
@@lrworkshop Smart plan... The holes will probably be 10mm in the other direction mind. Probably best to only try fitting it on the night of a Blue Moon after you've sacrificed a goat!
Those Defendery things are a bugger to retrofit parts like that
If the chassis has fixed tabs to hold the tub on, you fix the tub first as you cannot go backwards or forwards, and then work forwards which is why the bulkhead has shims on the bottom pin and slots for the inner wing etc
Rebuild rookie mistake is always fitting the bulkhead first and bolting it to the outrigger then when you get to the back - there is a gap
Also this is how they set the door gaps for the front at 34 3/4 inch parallel on the regulars
Took me a while to figure it out - than the Lord for slots and shims!
Hey ho! Keeps you off the streets!
Mike
Ayup Mike ... shims on the bottom pin? Either my old memory is going or you'll have to enlighten me chap.
Cheers Mike. It certainly does (that and a global pandemic!)
So many pieces, parts and bolt holes to align. Nice job!! Wow!!
The parts required cross 4 diagrams. I'll do a video where I show which ones
I used yrm replacement lower C pillars and had exactly the same problems you had. I refabricated the sections, moved the bracket. Even the lip for the door seal was several mm deeper than origional. All other parts that I was letting these into were origional, no chassis repairs either, origional chassis. I bought from yrm as about 15yrs ago I used several of their panels to refurbish my series seat box and they fitted mint.
Thanks Richie, good to know
Arkonik essentially strip down to bare chassis and build up from scratch with all new panels (including their very own pressed bulkheads) so I'm not surprised that they manage ok with the YRM parts. Went at the weekend, they had some old frame sections for sale.
Great job though 👍
Thanks David
I note the pvc tape, i assume this is factory technique, i haven't done any extensive body repairs yet but have been using epdm as a gasket between the ally and steel, epdm is used in a lot of cladding / curtain walling applications where corrosion if not controlled can be a quite an issue particularly in high rise construction, this is the same principle in using non austinetic stainless steel in fixings for, yep, cladding applications.
The factory just used foam between the floors and the sill. No other electrolytical corrosion barriers, much to our delight... 😒
Great work! Love the PVC tape idea, I use 1mm rubber that I cut to size but that’s the better way for sure!
Can't claim the credit - saw it elsewhere!
Have you got a link to the tape? I presume it’s not pvc electrical tape as that thin and doesn’t stick well?
@@jamiebarron3951 I think it's just that stuff, just wider ebay.to/3dNtOd8
Thank goodness we don’t have salt on our roads here. Our Landrovers break down regularly but at least don’t rust here in Australia.
Not jealous at all 😐
Well worth getting some Dinitrol and treating the areas that get exposed when doing this type of work.
The crusty aluminium bits will get replaced in the distant future, so i'm not so worried about those. I have dinitroled inside the B/C posts and will do along the sill rails too 👍
Got to do mine as it's failed its MOT on the C pillar. B pillar doesn't look good either so thinking of swapping it all.
Would the separate YRM kit have solved the alignment issue? I know you would then have to do the welding of the B and C pillar to the sill.
Ok, you answered the question in part 2!!
I'm guessing this is the what you meant by "what I know now" from the first video! I'm planning on completely taking mine apart from the bulkhead back, replacing the RH and LH tub skins, cappings and rear quarters. Do you think this would still be an issue or would you buy it unassembled? Thanks for the video, it's always good when someone does it before you :)
Yes it is 😉 I think you'll have more chance to align it properly if the rear tub comes off. It was only rear the C post to rear tub bracket that I have an issue with. The rest is very well aligned. Replacing the rear tub skin you'll at least get a chance to match the C post and tub together by drilling them 👍
Thanks that’s what I hoping you’d say 😁 Now just got to get the purchase past my wife. If you have any tips on that that would be great! 😂
get yourself a load of stainless bolts dome head hex or spline look much better mine has them everywere also make gaskets between ally and steel parts it really works i used damp cource material cut to size along with stainless nuts and bolts totally amazing
Don't forget anti galling paste on stainless.
I vowed i'd use stainless bolts, but never stainless nuts again after galling issues i've had!
Never had any issues and mines been built for 5 year
This is a bit of a project!
Well done, I’ve built two five door land rovers, 110 and a series 2a , I had the same issues has you with the 110 but the series had know seat box or kick panel floors in etc, I enjoy your videos, keep them coming,
Thanks Mark. Was it the C post to body brackets you had issues with?
@Harvey Smith well it's all over for me already and yes it was 😂
I was saying ... roof ... roof needs to go up 🤣 Not a bad job. They never fit properly. Mine are original with the same tub but now it's on a different chassis those holes don't line up either. They rarely do. Cutting the galv is an option but needs to be done with a lot of PPE, expecially when welding. Nasty stuff when vapourised!
Yeah I only want to do it as a last resort, which is why I might wait til the new(er) tub
@@lrworkshop Smart plan... The holes will probably be 10mm in the other direction mind. Probably best to only try fitting it on the night of a Blue Moon after you've sacrificed a goat!
@@mjallenuk I might just buy a lottery ticket and retire in luxury
@@lrworkshop Or.... shock horror... buy a normal car. No idea why but lots of people do it.
nice one