Please record all your repairs! I know videos are already out there but it is extremely helpful to see others experiences. Every rust job is different. I was wondering if your rust affected the "sides" as the central tunnel and outer side panel. Thanks Jack
I didn't record all of the footwell repair as it was hard work to get it done between the rain 😂 , but there are more videos to come. Yes I had to repair the lip on the gearbox tunnel of the bulkhead. It took a very long time
Nice video. When I done my chassis swap 10 years ago I removed the outer wings and front panel as one. This summer I'm replacing the foot wells with extended ones. Also the pillars and top corners. Iv just been patching the bulkhead to keep it solid and going but I don't want it to get to bad.
While the wings are off you could have attached a foam mat to deaden sound am thinking of doing that when am servicing the engine and also body work ....
Bear with me as I have zero experience, but would it be that much more work to just remove the entire front group as a unit including the radiator and support? Wouldn't that provide even more access to the footwells, etc? Three hours...wow.
Mike seems to think it's easier this way as there are more rusty bolts to contend with on the inner arch. I would tend to agree, if all you want to do is get access. Also it keeps a datum so you don't have to totally adjust the wing on refitting. It certainly took longer than I thought due to battling with rusty bolt and nuts.
The resistor for the dim/dip headlight circuit. It makes the main bulbs dimmer on the first headlight switch position. Was a UK requirement around the 80s and it lingered on Defenders into the Puma era but is not required in the modern day. I've bypassed the entire circuit with this mod: www.landroverexpedition.com/technical/bypass-dim-dip-relay/
I learnt to weld for this entire purpose. "Learnt" is maybe a bit loose - I played with the welder until I was confident in sticking the metal together. Some of the welds weren't great, but some were quite ok. It's quite fun but i'm not sure i'd want to be doing it as a pastime. Welding tutorials are always based on the bench with good access. It was bloody hard work doing it on the vehicle as with the visor on there are lots of things in the way meaning you can't get that close, so you're trying to weld from 1.5 feet away
A much better solution is to use a stainless connector in aluminum structures. The component made of stainless steel is characterized by a high chromium content, up to 18%. It also contains manganese, nickel and copper. These are metals that additionally make steel resistant to the aggressive effects of a corrosive environment. The use of such fasteners does not cause electrochemical corrosion. This is due to the similar electrical potential of the passive layers of the aluminum structural element and the stainless connector in contact with it. Pozdrawiam z Polski
OMG what a terrible thing! I need to do that on mine! Yeah I watched Mike`s then watched yours...… Still not clear to me how I can repair the foot well.....
Don't get this vid, great for removing the wing but didn't see the repair, the footwell didn't look bad to be fair but as has been said, why no paint over the repair?
I realise this video has been done a million times, but I thought I might as well film it whilst I was doing it!
I find taking it off as one unity easier when refitting. But nice tutorial, always helps LR owners.
Not a job I look forward to doing. Good on ya for tackling this one. Mike is the man!
Got a vid coming up soon with all the parts. it's worthing prepping beforehand as I had to cut lots of bolts!
Please record all your repairs!
I know videos are already out there but it is extremely helpful to see others experiences. Every rust job is different.
I was wondering if your rust affected the "sides" as the central tunnel and outer side panel.
Thanks
Jack
I didn't record all of the footwell repair as it was hard work to get it done between the rain 😂 , but there are more videos to come. Yes I had to repair the lip on the gearbox tunnel of the bulkhead. It took a very long time
Nice video. When I done my chassis swap 10 years ago I removed the outer wings and front panel as one.
This summer I'm replacing the foot wells with extended ones. Also the pillars and top corners. Iv just been patching the bulkhead to keep it solid and going but I don't want it to get to bad.
Can you explain what you mean by extended foot wells?
@@Rob-cz7lg they extend upwards. Mines shot above the footwells aswell. They're from yrm. Check out the website.
Thanks Steven!
Mike is the best 🙌😁🍻
While the wings are off you could have attached a foam mat to deaden sound am thinking of doing that when am servicing the engine and also body work ....
This is just a temporary repair. I will replace the bulkhead in the future
Please tell me you are going to put some paint on those repairs Will.....?!
Do you mean the bit poking out at 8:18? It is painted black and has Dinitrol over the top
Bear with me as I have zero experience, but would it be that much more work to just remove the entire front group as a unit including the radiator and support? Wouldn't that provide even more access to the footwells, etc? Three hours...wow.
Mike seems to think it's easier this way as there are more rusty bolts to contend with on the inner arch. I would tend to agree, if all you want to do is get access. Also it keeps a datum so you don't have to totally adjust the wing on refitting. It certainly took longer than I thought due to battling with rusty bolt and nuts.
Great video again, what was that gold box at 6.43?
The resistor for the dim/dip headlight circuit. It makes the main bulbs dimmer on the first headlight switch position. Was a UK requirement around the 80s and it lingered on Defenders into the Puma era but is not required in the modern day. I've bypassed the entire circuit with this mod: www.landroverexpedition.com/technical/bypass-dim-dip-relay/
@@lrworkshop blimey, another project. I’m just about to start the low coolant alarm from your website, cheers!.
Nice Job! Have you long experience in welding or is that a recent skill?
I'm pondering trying to add that string to my bow if I can.
I learnt to weld for this entire purpose. "Learnt" is maybe a bit loose - I played with the welder until I was confident in sticking the metal together. Some of the welds weren't great, but some were quite ok. It's quite fun but i'm not sure i'd want to be doing it as a pastime. Welding tutorials are always based on the bench with good access. It was bloody hard work doing it on the vehicle as with the visor on there are lots of things in the way meaning you can't get that close, so you're trying to weld from 1.5 feet away
@@lrworkshop much credit to you! Looks like a rewarding step.
A much better solution is to use a stainless connector in aluminum structures. The component made of stainless steel is characterized by a high chromium content, up to 18%. It also contains manganese, nickel and copper. These are metals that additionally make steel resistant to the aggressive effects of a corrosive environment. The use of such fasteners does not cause electrochemical corrosion. This is due to the similar electrical potential of the passive layers of the aluminum structural element and the stainless connector in contact with it. Pozdrawiam z Polski
Nice one
Thanks!
OMG what a terrible thing! I need to do that on mine! Yeah I watched Mike`s then watched yours...… Still not clear to me how I can repair the foot well.....
Don't get this vid, great for removing the wing but didn't see the repair, the footwell didn't look bad to be fair but as has been said, why no paint over the repair?
This was just the prep for getting to the footwell repair
re: paint. If you mean the bit of footwell you can see at 8:18, it has black paint on then Dinitrol