The best upgrade for the back of your Defender.
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2023
- In this episode we're preparing the Land Rover Defender 110 for it's new Mantec swing away wheel carrier. Removing the old carrier, replacing all the hinges with Exmoor trim CNC hinges and to top it all off - a gas assisted strut for the rear dooor. This is a job most people can take on but be warned - some of the bolts will be a bugger to remove!
Links to all the parts featured in this video:
EXT014-140 - BILLET ALUMINIUM REAR DOOR FULL HINGE SET IN BLACK -
www.lrparts.net/ext014-140-bi...
JWP1205 - TOP MOUNT REAR TAILGATE DOOR GAS STRUT STAY KIT FOR LAND ROVER DEFENDER 1983-2016
www.lrparts.net/jwp1205-top-m...
DA2517 - DEFENDER REAR DOOR CARD IN LIGHT GREY - TAILGATE DOOR CARD FOR DEFENDERS UP TO 2002 - COMES WITH REAR WIPER MOTOR COVER
www.lrparts.net/da2517-defend... - Авто та транспорт
I know this guy. Used to do videos of restoration of old land rovers a decade ago. I always wondered why you stopped making videos. Good to see you back!
Hinges look great. Black and white colour looks great.
Bought the gas strut and the Mantec wheel carrier for my TD5. Going to give it a go at the weekend.
Stick your spare wheel on the bonnet, like on my military Defender. Your cat will love having somewhere to snuggle down, enjoying the warmth from the engine, and it can ambush any intruders by springing out from its castle turret. Simply the best place for your spare and your 🐈⬛️ !
I do love a bonnet mounted spare, but only if you stick to the original skinny wheels. We might go a bit bigger!
Nice to see you got some help, Ste's a top man on Defenders, loves them 👍
Good old Ste , the LR mascot 🤣👍
Ordered the gas strut... looks like a game changer
Great video!
I see that these hinges are also available for all the side doors. Pretty expensive to do the whole lot, especially on a 110. But I wish they also had grease nipples so that you could keep the hinges properly maintained, as that is my main complaint with the standard hinges in the first place. In fact I think if the standard hinges had grease nipples and you kept them lubed-up regularly you'd probably never need to replace them. So the absence of grease nipples on these aftermarket hinges holds me back from upgrading. Of course, if I was in the position where I was _having_ to replace the hinges (rather than it being a choice to upgrade) then these look like they would be a good option.
I like the rear door strut, that looks like a no-brainer. I've seen others that mount at the bottom of the door but the top mounting you show here is a better option.
Thanks for the video! We've subscribed. 👍
Yeah, love the idea of those gas struts, I wonder if they'd work on the other 4 doors
Those Exmoor Trim hinges are a good design with the bronze bushes and what appear to be larger diameter pins (compared to original). They could be rebuilt by the look of them also.
I think if the hinges had grease nipples, and we were able to keep them greased regularly, they would basically never fail in the first place. Same problem with the standard hinges - the lubrication gets washed out and they end up rusting away internally. The service manual actually calls for us to lubricate them, but... how? There's no way! I wish these aftermarket ones had grease nipples. It would probably make for an uglier hinge, but function before form in my view.
Just ordered this kit and the strut is really over powered for the weight of the door. It requires too much force to close and does not have a dampening effect on open. If you open the door it will swing open so fast that the doorframe flexes considerably. It causes both the door, the hinge plate and the rear tub to flex. Uninstalled immediately as it put the cars body at a serious risk of cracking.
We're actually in the process of making our own with an altered compression. Maybe return that one and wait a few weeks fo rthe new one to come out.
Good video. Strut looks easy enough tp fit. Any similar solutions for keeping the drivers door and passengers door open? Thanks
The kit I bought of you is different and you have to cut the head lining for the bolt on the top bracket and you must remove the original door closer which you haven’t done.
I don't think either of those things need doing. Is everything mounted the same as in the video?
I like the look of the rear door gas strut kit, reasonable price as well, I'll probably order one from you. I can't suffer paying the price of the Nakatanenga version. It may be slightly better quality but how can they justify that sort of money for it. I'll be interested with your Mantec install. On my truck I've gone with the ORE version that is probably one of the best and doesn't require you to drill any holes.
You will have no problems with the Mantec crane, it just fits through the existing holes. Chris B.
I am constantly surprised with the amount of enthusiasm you work on these badly designed rust buckets. Hat off !!!😊
Those hinges surely should have had a rubber flange between door and hinge. Poor workmanship/design.
Based on your review here of the gas strut I purchased two kits. However the installation was not as seamless as your video suggests. Firstly the factory hinge bolts only allow for maybe 3/4 of a turn on the nut which is insufficient to provide any strength, that’s with no washers. This is on a 1996 300Tdi. Then the factory screws used to hold the retaining plate in place pulled out on the first attempt to close the door I will need to source longer hinge bolts and larger screws for the grab handles This is my first purchase from LR Parts. So all in all pretty disappointing experience.
That's such a shame. I haven't had any problems with the grab handle screws but can see how some hinge bolts might be shorter than others. Thanks for the heads up. It will help other owners.
I have replaced with longer bolts and fatter screws and works ok but there is a noticeable amount of flex in the panel that grab handle bolts too.
I also found the kit frustrating. Bolts are too short so I have had to purchase longer ones. The “plates” also needed pretty extensive modification as the holes were all out by quite some distance.
Not sure what happened to my gas strut kit, I bought this from you a few weeks back and fitted it as I was fed up getting the door closing on me when unloading on a slope, it all fitted very easily,(although there were no fitting instructions and it was unclear which bolt holes the top bracket fitted into), the problem came when I opened the door after fitting, it had transformed the opening of the door, even with a heavy spare wheel on the door it opened with ease, then I tried to close the door! It was nearly impossible to overcome the gas strut, so I now have to have both hands on the door edge, and put my whole weight into getting the door to close, a smaller person cannot even get the door moving, so the door no long closes on me, but it takes enormous effort to close it, I wonder if I got the wrong gas strut? So hard is it to shut that I have had to weld a 3rd bolt attachment to the top bracket as it was bending the bracket rather than shutting? I have also fitted the Mantec swing away wheel carrier. Chris B.
Hey Chris, the only thing I can think of is the position of the metal mounting plate. Out of the packet I nearly fitted it behind the nearest handle. It definately has to be central mounto tthe inner fixing piints of both handles. Otherwise the strut wont extend to it's full stroke, which in turn will make it really hard to close as it's stopped in its strongest point. Also have the thicker end mounted to the body and the extending arm on the door. If nobe of this makes a difference, I'd return the shock for a replacement. Cheers for the feedback though.
I've had exactly the same, followed the instructions on the video and upon first use the bracket on the door is all bent out of shape. It takes a huge effort to close the door as well.
@@frankmorgan9495 I think the only way this strut will work is by welding an extension arm to the bracket to give it a larger contact area, it would mean inserting a tapping into the top of the door, but it will stop the bracket trying to bend so much, brilliant for opening the door, but it takes all my weight and both hands to close it, and that is in 40 degs of heat, I wonder what it will be like in winter! Chris B.
How did you mount the off-side number plate? Was it just a double sided sticky tape job?
It was, but if I was keeping it there I'd use rivets, so it can't be robbed!
you didnt repair the cracked door frame though.
random question - my old ambulance has those rear small windows and one of the trims is gone - I need to know what they are called to try and get a replacement - any one able to tell me this is my BFF
You'll need both these.
www.lrparts.net/cge500660-seal-for-defender-rear-quarter-glass-for-small-windows-either-side-of-the-rear-end-door.html
and
www.lrparts.net/chb500050-filler-strip-for-defender-rear-quarter-glass-for-small-windows-either-side-of-the-rear-end-door.html
Do you have a discount code?
Not right now but I'l see if we can get some soon,
@@LRLiveUK Would love to rep you so they know you drive sales! Just let me know! You're a great resource
Bought the gas strut and it’s stuck… waste of money !
That's unfortunate, maybe the Nakatanenga version is the one to go with. You get what you pay for is probably true in this case then. Perhaps you'll get a comment on this problem.
Really! Did you not return it?
Same here. I got it from LRparts. I emailed them and they never replied back. It must be a common defect.
I also fitted one, it appears that the gas strut is far too strong as I cannot shut my rear door,(without considerable effort, it certainly is not as easy as the one shown here. Chris B.
@@453421abcdefg12345yes that was it !