Figuring out the B/C post side frame problems - Part 2
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- I try and investigate, with some measurements, where the problems with fitting my B/C posts is coming from.
Genuine side frame parts for a 110 Defender
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Grind the mid misaligned bracket off, bolt that bracket to the tub with a gasket then align the c pillar then weld IT up then spray it with rattle can
Cheers Stephen
LR Workshop & Expedition id do a stitch weld with lots of time between welds so things don’t get super hot and melt the gasket / warp.
As an old fart in this biz - dry run first without paint - cut/adapt/weld/remove then paint.Takes time but that is a common issue with aftermarket panels.
Built many CSW from used genuine parts - not an issue, so it has to be YRM is a bit out.
If you really want a frustrating job fit those plastic front outer wings/ or the plastic door cards...
They told me they make them with their dimensions a bit more generous in certain directions. Time is short at the moment, so I've had to rattle through this so I can get onto welding the chassis, plus leaving time so I can watch your videos Mike!
Cut the floor mounting bracket part off, fabricate a 90 degree replacement that can be bolted onto the post using nutserts, or rivets. You can then adjust it up by 7mm or whatever. If you had adjustment in that area you would probably be able to get it aligned a lot better.
Cheers Chris.
I didn't know that land rover drilled back through the C-Posts ... that really does help explain the troubles I'm having right now. Thanks chap... you have no idea how much I appreciate this video!
Cheers Matt. Check out the next video for clarification of the factory methods!
Shoddy after market parts is something defender owners have to learn to live with IMHO...
I don't berate YRM for this. I would have preferred that they make them identical to the factory, but they've added a bit of "give". I'm not totally sure though that this one was built within their own tolerances. I may be pushing the limits by trying to make them fit an existing bulkhead and tub alignment.
Out of curiosity I've just measured my "C" pillar... I've got 267mm on my 2005 TD5.... I've owned from new.... I haven't got a clue where the mismatch is
I sympathise with you. On my Series III, everytime I try to improve one area something else gets thrown out leading to doors difficult to shut or leaks or draughts etc.
After a few years of tweaks I did have mine pretty good, but then swapped the soft top for a hard top and am now going through the process again.
Graham
Thanks Graham. It's a neverending circle!
Can’t you just elongate the door lock catch. Seems like the simplest solution
I think shaving some of the bottom of the rear nut plate is the way to go. In the upcoming video for the RHS, the striker bolts don't go to the bottom of the holes in the C pillar, so the nut plate is restricting it.
YRM don’t drill the C-post rivet holes as they’d never line up with the old tub.
That bracket is causing a lot of your problems. Cut it off and make up a replacement that bolts the same way through the floor but also bolts to the c-post with rivulets in the pillar and slotted holes if round aren’t flexible enough in the bracket.
Slot the bolt holes for the c-pillar door catch and align the door properly - apart from poor sealing allowing drafts and water ingress, the body flex off road will press the door top against the roof gutter with that small a clearance; it’s because of that flex that LR gave the Defender (and predecessors), RRC and Discovery such big panel gaps. Hi
Cheers Nick
It is really frustrating, had similar issues myself. Some aftermarket parts are just sh1t, however YRM are normally pretty good. I can sympathise, Land Rover tolerances we’re so wide it is a very difficult ( almost impossible) job to make parts that will fit every single vehicle as every one is a little bit or a lot different. I was looking at this thinking I should have done this repair same way as you as I bought all the parts separately as job creep set in, now I’m at least happy it was not just me as it is a bit of a head twister trying to get it all to line up properly but at least 3 separate parts allows for more adjustment but overall galvanising of vulnerable parts is then not possible. I would cut off & nutsert/bolt or re weld the tub plate to get it to line up, not ideal but then Defender has many compromises which could have been and we would prefer we’re improved.
Thanks Peter. It's always a wonder about how the tolerances could be so far out as things are made on a jig, but then you've got the people aspect putting the bits into the jig 😄. I think the YRM parts are pretty good to be fair, it's just I think they mostly sell to rebuilders rather than people who replace in situ
I did go down the route of repairing mine but made that seat box bracket bolt on before galv. was still a pain to fit though.
Oh man, that’s annoying... I hope you can figure it out! Seems to be a returning problem with after market body panels and parts.
Doing a similar rebuild myself, so sympathise with the problems, most I encountered too. On my vehicle many of the parts if not rotten were missing and that’s been the greater problem for me. I do have a question though. At 9.19 you have a good pic of the c post and in particular the rear tab. What is the tab supposed to do? I can see day light between my tab and the wing floor. Any idea what could be wrong?
I may be thinking wrongly here but can the bracket off the c post go under the tub instead of above the tub? It may not be correct to do it but you could use large washers or a plate over the top!
You’ve found the problem so it needs to be rectified and then all the other alignment problems will cease to exist. It’s the only way to fix it. Otherwise you will be dealing with constant work arounds to deal with the issues and you’ll never be happy with it knowing it’s not fixed. As others have said before, cut the bracket off and re-weld in the correct position and life will be much easier. It’s crap to have to undo the paint and galvanising previously done, but that isn’t anywhere near as shoddy as leaving it miss aligned. After watching your experience with this I’d definitely dry fit it first and decide what to do from there. Shame really, looked like a good bolt in option for those that need a bolt in option.
Cheers Carlton. Time was against me. I'm trying to replace some key bits without having to do a full rebuild.
As I mentioned before, I had the replacement lower C post YRM replacement section. I had to shorten the section, removed the L bracket that bolts to the tub and welded on the old one, higher up, also as the hole centres were different as you have seen, is the height of the lip for your door seal different? It was 3mm taller than origional. The problem you have is all is galvanised so if you start chopping it you are undoing what you paid for.........
Cheers Richie. Yes not ideal to modify a galvanised part. I may leave the drastic bits for when the rebuilt happens!
Hey mate, I just went through something similar to this when replacing my tub.
I replaced it with a 2nd hand item off a vehicle from the same era.
I had to cut off those little L brackets in question from the C-pillar. Just no way it was going to fit otherwise. I will tack weld them back on one day...
I'm still 5mm out on the driver's side.
Is your tub possibly on an angle? can you loosen off the nuts and slide it back on the passenger side? (just a thought)
Will I had similar issues with the holes not lining up fitting the YRM B and C posts. In the end I replaced the toe Panel section with new ends and drilled new holes to line up with the C post.
Thanks Nigel
I thought ability to keep doors shut whilst in motion and gaps small enough to keep out light aircraft would be regarded as a good result ?
Totally 😁
All this type of work on future defenders is gone due to monocoque construction? It's almost like manufactures have forgotten there are people out there who like projects and keep older vehicles on the road... Just because they can.. This all part of the disposable nature of modern society.. I see a movie one day like planet of the apes where they find an old defender in a jingle half finished.
I sympathise mate - so many aftermarket bits don't fit well. If you can weld - can you cut the bracket off and reweld it where you think it should go? Shouldn't have to but most currently available aftermarket parts seem to need engineering into use.
I have a galvanised door top that could be decribed as long lastingly poor fitting.
Cheers. I was hoping it would fit fine as it's a part made on a jig, except that the replacement part is made to slightly different dimensions (3-4mm they told me) to take account of all the Defender variances. Others have suggested cutting off and drilled/rivnut/bolts. Feels a better option compared to welding galv steel (fumes)