How to Replace a Timing Belt on a Honda V6 (step-by-step)
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2023
- Depending on your exact year, model, and engine size, there may be slight variations in the disassembly and reassembly you see in this video. However, the core timing belt components and the way you set the timing and line up the marks are the same.
You can use this video as a guide to replace the timing belt on any of these cars:
Honda Accord
Honda Pilot
Honda Ridgeline
Honda Odyssey
Acura TL
Acura MDX
Acura RDX
You can use this video as a guide to replace the timing belt on any Honda j-series v6 engine (3.0 liter, 3.2 liter, 3.5 liter, and 3.7 liter)
Torque specs:
timing belt idler pulley 33 ft-lbs
timing belt tensioner pulley 19 ft-lbs
timing belt tensioner 8.7 ft-lbs
crankshaft pulley 47 ft-lbs plus 60 degrees
timing cover bolts 8.7 ft-lbs
Upper motor mount bracket (with three bolts that go through water pump) 33 ft-lbs
Water pump 10mm bolts 8.7 ft-lbs
Below are links to some of the tools used in this video:
Ratcheting wrench set
www.harborfreight.com/extra-l...
EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator... www.amazon.com/dp/B01I40ZQWE?...
Lisle 77080 19 mm Harmonic Balancer Socket for Honda, Factory a.co/d/1X073za
Performance Tool W89208 Cam... www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSEJ6Q?...
I haven’t used this one personally, but you’ll need a tool like this if you’re doing the job without air tools:
ABN Harmonic Damper Crankshaft Crank Pulley 50mm Socket - Wrench Holding Tool for Honda & Acura Remover & Installer a.co/d/ajJElkN - Авто та транспорт
Hands down the best Honda timing belt tutorial on UA-cam! One handed at that!
@donniev8181 ya, he got it done, and it got me through my Accord.
The crank bolt was the only bitch in the job
on my 2010 J35Z2 timing belt. MF, at least 1kflb
Thank you. That is my engine. This is a great video. I need to watch 9 more times before tackling this job.
That's how i did mine on my Subaru lol now I'm about to do my girlfriends accord
This mixed with other videos made me change my timing belt kit
Thanks man you just saved me $1700
Wow, I cannot tell you how helpful this was! Fabulous. I think I missed the part where you scraped your knuckle to the bone but I thought I'd add that to my job. Thank you, again!
Right to the point, all socket sizes and all torque specs were mentioned. Dude did most of this one handed. Awesome job Jack. Makes me feel like I can do this job myself!
The moving rear sprocket technique saved me. I was having so much trouble with biting the teeth to the belt.
***TAKE NOTE FOLKS*** I absolutely battled with the crank bolt and snapped a breaker bar trying to get it off. I also tried my air powered impact gun. Then a neighbor kid comes over with a Milwaukee 18V impact driver and pulls it off. We heated the bolt with a propane torch and pounded on it a couple times, ( I also did that before pulling on it with breaker bar), but that impact driver did the trick! Better get yourself one and not waste time with anything else. They cost about $200 but worth it! I learned my lesson. Still saving a lot of $$ by doing the work yourself!
your views of the engine are the best I have seen on youtube
Awesome and informative. I just bought an 04 Saturn Vue with the 3.5 J35 V6 engine. It has 115k and I’m 100% sure that the timing belt hasn’t been done. I replaced the valve cover gaskets, thermostat, struts, shocks, front lower control arms and sway bar links and bushings. I’ve never done a timing job but after watching you… I definitely know that I can NOT do it😂😂😂. Jk. I’m feeling confident enough because of you. Thanks again for the informative video!!
Hi everyone.
I agree with the other comments that this is one of the best explanations and best video on how to replace the timing belt on a Honda v6. But there is one procedure that Mr. Fletcher did not go over and is as important as any other. It is how to get the grenade pin out. I have watched this job on many other UA-cams and only found a couple that does it right. The deal is there is an aluminum protrusion (tab) above the TB tensioner that accepts a M1 bolt. Screw a M1 bolt 2 inches long into this tab pointed north to south. The end of the bolt will push on the boss of the tensioner causing the other side of the tensioner to push on the rod of the tensioner. This will relieve all pressure on the grenade pin and it can be removed without any difficulty.
I tried for a day to get that pin out. As soon as it got out of the one side of the tensioneeer it would bend and was almost impossible to get out. I got it out once but for a reason I won't explain I had to put it back in. By. now the. pin was slightly bent and no amouint of pulling would remove it. So I hunted for other TB repair videos and found one by A1Auto that showed the procedure. Take a look.
Good luck all.
All you need is pliers to pull on the pin and twist. It bends because it’smade from cheap ass metal. You can unbolt the old tensioner to remove the tension on the belt and as long as the slack is on the tensioner side of the belt , install the tensioner and pull the pin with pliers. The bigger the pliers the easier. I used big channel lock style pliers. If you do want to use a bolt in the hole Relieve tension on the belt use the boat from the battery tiedown Terminal. It threads right in. My tensioner was partially bad , no leaks or anything but the belt had too much play. I can’t believe the car was running fine and was over the Maintence mileage for t belt and water pump change. The water pump went and when I removed everything I realized the belt had too much slack. Another thing I don’t recommend is rotating the engine with no tension on the belt. You will most likely skip a tooth so triple check tdc markings as you might need to turn the cams slightly to get the belt teeth on all the way. Getting the belt on and routing it while
Keeping everything at tdc was the hardest part of the entire job for me. Once the belt is on and you check all markings (I can’t stress this enough ) you don’t want to have to compress the new tensioner If markings are off, it’s a PITA. ONCE You pull the Grenade pin it’s smooth sailing. Also i reccomend using the oem blue coolant which is silica free. That’s what Honda calls for and I see a lot of ppl using the green antifreeze which will still work but using the wrong antifreeze can shorten the engines lifespan.
Exactly my problem 4 years ago. Bought all OEM parts from Honda Dealership. Took me 12hrs as well since i triple checked everything. Then it came to pulling the pin (i literally felt relief when it came to that step.) However, I couldn't get the pin out all the way using my hand, pliers (reg and large size.) had to unbolt the tensioner pulley to get unstuck. Compressed it again using a vise then put back the pin ( had to straighten the pin out.) Redid it and got stuck 2 more times. So I left everything and did research on it. Turned out, the right procedure was using the battery tied down bolt ( 2 long rods to tie down the battery) and threaded through from top to bottom where the end of that long tied down bolt would be pressed on the pulley outer body to relieve the pressure from the hydraulic tensioner pin. Exactly what you described. After that l, the pin went out with no effort. Lol. These mechanics must have dealt with these pins so often that they make it look easy to pull out. 😂😂 As an amateur, I believe the battery long bolt is the easiest route for me. I would not do it any other way in the future.
This is the best instructions video on UA-cam.Thank you Jack.
Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching!
Awesome! I remember doing my 2000 accord v6 coupe around 2016 myself (the first time was at the dealership) and it took me 12 hrs b/c I checked like crazy. My 2014 ody is due for a TB and I plan on doing it this summer. Watching this brings back POSITIVE nostalgia haha.
Also there appears to be A LOT more space here and in my ody than the accord (i still have the accord, has 215k miles and I might do it again if it makes to 250k miles or a few more years!!!). Thanks for sharing, LIKED AND SUBBED!
Followed you step by step as I did mine. Worked out great! Thank you for making a thorough video.
That’s awesome! Thanks for the feedback.
Best video out on UA-cam explain every step
wow, the best , most well presented, absolutely thorough, explanation and instruction of an important service process that I have come across as I educate myself on my recent purchase of a 2010 Pilot and the maintenance required to get longevity of a Honda. I hope my Honda dealership service techs are as talented and methodical. Your ability to explain is appreciated, helpful and encouraging as I move forward with bringing my purchase up to excellent condition. Thanks
i dont even have a honda and ended up watching this whole thing, i'm a sucker for a good instructional video
Thanks for watching!
No lie This man build my confidence
Very good tutorial
BEST and most informative video I have been able to find on this on UA-cam! Thank you
Thanks for the feedback! I’m glad you found it helpful.
Just very well explained, greetings from Mexico City.
Thank you for the video. You give me the confident I need to do it myself.
Great video this will help me out alot when I change my timing belt in March with my son thanks brother.
Finally God bless you 😊 my key way fell out an I've been through 100'of videos an no one shows this so your video ROCKS thank you 🙏
I almost didn’t include that part, but now I’m thankful I did! I’m glad you enjoyed the video!
Excellent and very detailed walk through. Thank You!
What an awesome video Jack! Your photography, lighting and step by step attention to detail make me think I can, "possibly" do this myself.🙂Thank you so much for taking the time to inform us DIY'ers on a way to save some dough and do the job right!
Amazing feedback. Thank you so much.
Wow, I'm in the middle of replacing the timing belt on my 2012 MDX for the first time and this is the best, most complete video I've seen. I have watched at least 5 others, if not more, and while they all are a bit different all the others are missing something. Maybe this is something specific to the 2nd gen MDX but all the other videos had me remove the power steering pump reservoir and computer board and bracket to give more room and to allow for the removal of the motor mount. One of the other videos specific to the MDX was good but had no audible instruction and was often speed up too fast. Also, as someone else pointed out, it's very important to make sure you can get the crankshaft bolt lose before you start. I worked on mine for several weeks, bought a new impact driver and borrowed my neighbors impact as he used to own and run an automotive repair garage and I still could not remove it. I did not resort to heat as I didn't wat to damage the seal but I had to take it to a garage to have them break it loose before I could start. Thanks very much for this video! Now after watching it for the beginning, I realize the other videos are useful for the removal of parts specific to the 2012 MDX. So this video, with the others make this job doable.
That’s such a compliment and encouragement to me. Thank you. I’m glad I was able to produce a video that was helpful to you. And that’s definitely a good point about the crank bolt!
Awesome video for timing belt R&R. The most thorough one I've seen. Thanks for the effort and the result!!
Thank you for sharing and taking the time to help us all❤
Bout to do this over the weekend thank you brotha 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
This was the best youtube video I have ever seen. Very helpful. Thank you
Wow thank you!
This gives me confidence to do this nice work.....subscribed
Hands down best tutorial of possibly anything definitely of this subject tho.
Thank you! I appreciate your comment!
BRO! You sir are the real MVP! THANK YOU!!
Great video. You walked me through doing daughter’s accord. The crank bolt was a booger on that car. I’m doing my wife’s car now and I soaked that bolt with pb blaster. It came right off with the impact and a regular 19mm impact socket. I couldn’t believe it. Pb blaster got a life long customer 😂
Fantastic video! I fully believe I could do this job if I had the proper tools. I have done all other maintenance on my family's cars until now. I was scared of this job but I may attempt it now and try to save us the money.
I just changed my Honda Accord 3.5 timing belt yesterday and saw your video today. D’oh! I like the cam wrench for the power steering pulley. It is really nerve racking starting the car for the first time but an awesome feeling when it runs smooth 😊 Great video- only thing I did different was to immediately loosen the crank bolt. If you can’t loosen it you can’t do the rest. That worked well for me as I had to by a hi torque impact gun after breaking a couple of adapters trying to loosen it. Nice work 👍
I know what you mean! No matter how many timing belts I’ve done, there’s always that feeling right before start-up. Good idea on the crank bolt!
Wow I broke a breaker bar yesterday before a neighbor kid brought over his 18V milwaukee impact driver. I cant believe these things can bust frozen bolts better than human arms with breaker bars (I slipped a pipe over it so had it about 2.5ft long) and pulled with all of my might! Definitely buying one of those!
Excellent video bro just right to the point 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Look no further in your t-belt quest. VERY detailed. I like how he does it without the torque specs because some bolts you really won’t be able to get a torque wrench in there. I went back to other vids to find the ones I thought were important. I’m not a professional like jack so I wasn’t as confident with some of them.
Some notable things to be aware of:
Got hung up on the left cam sprocket springing on me when I tried to fit the belt on. You have to go a half tooth to the right in my case. So it sprang right then I tried to correct it and it jump like 45 degrees left. DON’T WORRY if it does this just move it back to Top Dead Center. You are fine.
Mark the old belt with line all the way across both cam sprockets. Then mark the belt at the bottom so you have a place to start. I did it at a tooth that pointed directly down opposite from the TDC mark. Then transfer the line to the new belt by placing it over the old belt and lining it up tooth by tooth all the way around.
The torque specs for the crank bolt are 180. I really didn’t want to mess with the 46 and then 60 degree thing.
Thank you for your calm and patient way of walking us novices through timing belt land!
Same thing happened to me the cam sprocket jump when I try to moved a tooth to fit the belt, now I understand the reason to line up all the mark top center.
BEST DETAILED VIDEO THANK YOU SIR.
amazing amazing video , and all the tips and tricks worked perfectly
The best video I ever seen!
Great video. I feel ready to tackel the job myself!
Very nice tutorial man keep up the good work
Thank you!
Apart from the ant infestation, I'm really impressed at longevity of Honda vehicles. 204,000 miles and still looks decent especially after superficial updates.
Makes me appreciate how much effort it takes to replace a timing belt. My 10 year-old diesel VW Golf interval is every 90,000 miles. I've got another soon due at 180,000 miles but it's considerably cheaper here in U.K. at around £425/$540 for belt, idler, water pump plus labour.
Great vid, Jack. Keep 'em coming.
Thank you.
Yeah, this Accord is in really good shape for the miles. It just goes to show that with good maintenance these cars can really last. I spent some time driving it around and it really drives like new even with 200,000 miles.
@jackhfletcher it's too bad Honda went crazy and changed over to that horrible 1.5L "earth dreams" engine! They're having all kinds of oil dilution issues with that engine. My last car was a Honda Accord but I switched back to Toyota just recently, primarily due to those issues. Plus you cannot go wrong when buying a new Toyota.
@@donniev8181thank climate change freaks . It's because of fuel regulations.
I love how something like a simple water pump failure will cause an engine like this to either destroy itself via fucking up the timing and belt or just be a very expensive repair. Obviously just changing it per the intervals lower the risk but it can still happen before it’s due..
Bad design for sure.
Maintenance doesnt come into play when engineers design this crap! They only think about cost and production. I think maintenance is an afterthought and comes in 3rd place!
To their credit though, mine made it to 150K of mostly highway miles and the old timing belt is still in very good condition and no other problems. Honda is legendary for reliability.
I honestly think they should extend this particular maintenance interval to at least 150K. Maybe depends on climate, type of driving, etc.
Excelente video, paso a paso con sus debidas precauciones, gracias Jack
What an excellent video!! Thank you
Excellent video!
This doesn’t look as hard as I thought it would be. I was very hesitant to do this myself due to the fact that it’s an interference engine but it seems like taking everything apart will be more of a hassle/challenge than actually replacing the timing belt itself. Thank you for the detailed tutorial, I think I’m gonna give it a try once it’s time to do this!
Great video 📹 👍🏿 👏🏿 the best one I've seen ever thanks for make this video.
Great video, thanks !
100% excellent! Please do the Honda 2.4 4 cylinder. Any maintainance procedure. Thanks.
Great video bro . Thank you
Awesome, best video on utube!!!!
Great guide
Seems like that honda accord is a good car
It definitely is. It’s in great shape for its age and mileage.
wow! very informative content, thank you
I am doing my 2011 accord exl and will use this video step for step! Never done one before, inwill use the ASIN brand.
Aisin is great! Can’t go wrong with that.
Awesome video
I love you more than I can say helped me sm 🙏
I’m happy to help!
Excellent tutorial on this one. However, I'd never use that Gates kit. The Gates water pump is the only one I've ever seen leak in the many Honda J35 timing belt jobs I've done. The Aisin kit is the best one out there aside from getting parts from the dealer.
One tip I'd add is that you can use a paint marker and mark the old belt and sprockets, then transfer those marks to the new belt and reinstall lining up the marks. Gives you 100% confirmation instantly that you aren't a tooth off. I do this every time.
Doing mine next week after parts come in.
I saw another guy mark his belts and you confirmed that so I will as well.
I’m having a shop break the crank bolt for me before I drive it a short distance and do my thing. Return and the guy will retighten crank bolt.
I’m figuring a full day and a buttload of patience.
$150-$175 I’m figuring I’ll have in it.
My kit does not include a new tensioner. Best guess is 100k on that tensioner. I’m going to search locally for it while my other parts are in transit though.
Leak happened within 2 days of putting antifreeze in it instead of the straight water that I had been running for over a year! I triple checked the radiator fluid (non diluted) yep, all engines. Drained radiator added the full fluid (purple in color?) and topped off with water. It was close to 50/50 and 2 days later…….. Didn’t see anywhere it leaked from! I’m certain I didn’t leak anything, I’m thinking I boiled it out.
My life sucks sometimes!
I bought an '06 Pilot with 179,000 miles. I don't know if the belt has been replaced, so I'm going to do it myself. I have never done more than a brake job, but I have the tools and I can follow directions. I know I can do this. Thank you for the video, it's the whole reason I'm doing this! I subscribed. 💋
You definitely can do it! Good luck!
Do it before it’s too late
Great video
Good job my freind 10 points job
Great job overall excellent video work.
Thank you!
Appreciate it man!
I always use a little bit of Vaseline or other non-corrosive grease to hold o-ring gaskets in place.also helps them seal better. Just remember a little goes a long way.
Great video thank u!
I have honda odyssey 2007 it have laud noise and looking your video I found it's the tensioner thanks
I’ve seen kits with replacement gaskets for the belt covers, that come in one piece and then you have to cut them down to the size you need.
Oh yeah, weighted socket for the win, came right off, way to go big guy, lol 😂
Nice!
This is my third J series 3.5 V6 timing belt replacement, I see now how little things are different, but so far pretty much everything is the same.
I like this video
Thank you.
Hi, friend:
First, thank you for sharing your work in detail.
My 2009 Accord EX 3.5l had the timing belt changed once it broke, that happened at idle, but the mechanic told me that it bent several 4 intake and 4 exhaust valves.
He did not specify which cylinders were changed for new ones, the parts that had to be rectified were rectified.
Everything was very good with the start, the engine response and that, but it had a vibration that it didn't have when idling. It vibrates slightly, it doesn't make strange sounds but it did NOT have that vibration and it is extremely annoying for me when that happens.
Can you give me some possible causes of that problem?
I thank you enormously for that too. Be healthy.
Great job and video! Could please do a timing belt replacement for 1998-2000 Honda 2.3L accord? Thank you!
I can’t remember the last time I saw a 1998-2000 Honda Accord in my shop. Most people who still own those aren’t so inclined to bring their car to a shop. But if I ever get the chance I’d love to make a video.
Very good video, was thinking in the beginning that you need a tripod but it turned out really well.
Thank you. A tripod would be a good idea though.
Wow, no need for tech torque on water pump.
Great. Looking for another video.
correct method for tightening water pump. Don't over torque!
If you have a small torque wrench calibrated in inch-pounds you can use that, just multiply by 12 to get foot-lbs. For the water pump, I think it came to something like 104 inch-lbs. I dont trust hand torque on something like that.
@@slipshaft Probably more important is the order and degree you go around snugging it down.
Not as important as head bolts, but still.
Start at the ones closest to the two guide pins.
This dude got me thinking I can do this. 😅
You got this!
Hello friend, my car is a 2009 Honda Accord 3.5l, do you know if my engine would have suffered valve damage due to the timing belt breaking. It was at idle when I warmed it up in the morning, about three minutes after turning it on, I knew it was about to break because the tensioner was making a lot of noise and a mechanic had warned me about it, thanks for your response. Blessings and success.
Thank you sooo much for posting this video. I am following you step by step on an 07 Odyssey I am working on. Love your tips and straightforward no bs approach. One question, wondering why you didn’t use the block coolant drain before pulling the water pump? Thanks again you have been very helpful!
I’m trying to remember back… I believe the block drain was rusty and I didn’t want to risk messing with it. Thanks for watching!
Now unfortunately when I tried to make the timing belt really snug as I fed it onto the front cam, the cam jumped clockwise quite a bit past the mark! This is not good I know. Can you suggest what I can do to realign the front cam to TDC?
I’ve read that I can rotate the cam up to 120 degrees as long as all three gears were at TDC when the belt was taken off, which they were. I need to move the front cam ccw about 80 degrees to get to TDC again but I’m worried about bending a valve
The easy way to remove the grenade pin is to pop a screwdriver under the piston and pry on it to align the holes.
Just be a man and grab it and pull! Their not that bad!
If you put a flat screwdriver on the tension rod apply leverage on it before you pull the pin . You will find it easier to remove. FYI
very deailed thank you
Can having a code p0344 indicate that it's out of time with the front gear? Off by a little?
My 07 Acura TL is past due for its second timing belt service 246k miles. Im tempted to do it myself shops are asking way too much. Ive got some oil leaks so im sure ill need to re-seal the oil pump as well. This video seems like itll be very helpful. I just question my ability to do it without a lift
I’d say go for it. Raise the front of the car and put it on jack-stands. Unfold a large cardboard box and use it as a mat to lay on. That’s how I used to work in the driveway😅 I replaced the clutch on my F-150 and did a bunch of other stuff that way.
@@jackhfletcher are certain hack stands better than others? Like i see so many “jack stand fail” videos it got me nervous to lay under this thing lol
Don’t watch those videos! Lol. I personally use both Craftsman and Harbor Freight jack stands. Anything you buy from a big box store or auto parts store is going to be fine. Even so, I still keep a small amount of pressure applied with the floor jack just for an extra safety (in addition to using the jack stands). Just make sure to pull the e-brake and chock the rear wheels also.
I need to do the same thing come this weekend I understand most of it. One thing you jacked the engine up when removing the motor mount when you lifted the car up with the lift did you still support the engine/ Or is there no need to. Great informative Video
There’s no need to keep a jack underneath. I used the jack to support the engine while I removed the mount just in case the engine were to shift or drop some while removing the mount.
An extra step, but I like to use the old tensioner to make sure it is all aligned properly. I will remove the old tensioner, and install the new tensioner. If you mess up, do you want to compress the new one or the old one? It doesn't take more than an extra 2 minutes to swap them out. Another 2 minutes to load them to put the pin in them.
Much appreciate if you could do the Honda Accord V6 3.5L...ABS Module replacement. Thanks!!! I already subscribed to your channel.
I believe its best to remove the bottom idler bearing first...because its a risk of doing thread damage to the tensioner..it will release the strain..Subaru is simular to this, and they will definitely do thread damage
Very helpful and thorough video! Thank you. 3 questions for the community . 1 did you drain the coolant before taking off the water pump? 2 with the one engine mount removed, is there a need to keep something supporting it near the oil pan area? 3 should I be doing the crank seal and cam seals at the same time?
I did not drain the coolant. On these, I usually just crack the water pump loose and let it drain.
As far as the mount, it sort of depends on your exact year and model. If you can remove the floor jack and the engine stays in place (like the one in this video) then there is no need to leave the jack. However, if the engine starts dropping like crazy when you lower the jack, then I would leave it in place.
As far as cam/crank seals, it’s up to you. Some people replace them. Usually if they’re not leaking I just leave them alone. Also, some people decide to remove and re-seal the oil pump housing. There is no harm in doing all that, but you’re just creating extra work for yourself. Bottom line - whatever you feel comfortable tackling is ok.
@@jackhfletcher Appreciate the advice and help, thank you for the detailed response to those questions. You did really well with filming and doing the work so people could see.
I saved this video for that day when I have the heart to do the timing belt change myself on a 04 Odyssey which has 188k on the clock. The first change was done at 90k.
I don't remember seeing the backlash washer for the drive belt tensioner. I suppose this washer is not on the 04 Odyssey.
Do you recall the crank bolt torque value? My guess is 180ft-lbs. Is that about right?
Thank you for the video, it is concise and very clear footage. Well done!!
The crank pulley bolt is 47 ft-lbs plus 60 degrees. That’s the official toque spec according to Mitchell Pro-Demand.
The serpentine belt tensioner on your 04 Odyssey is different than the one shown in my video. In fact, the particular style you see in my video was only used from 08-10 I believe.
I hope you’ll find my video helpful when you decide to tackle the job!
If it's anything like my 04 TL, it'll be a little yellow plastic bushing.
@@d.leesheppard7607 I also had a 2007 TL-S, the most disappointing car I ever owned. I had the tranny rebuilt, 20k later had another shop-rebuilt tranny put on. Then the car had another tranny problem 2k miles later... I junked it right there. The previous owner had another tranny replacement under warranty before me. If my accounting is right she had 4 transmissions, died on the fifth, not even had 160k. I would not worry too much about the timing belt and all other parts. When I replaced the timing belt (kit) first time every part looked rather good. The transmission probably dies before the belt. I'd wait and see before spending money on the belt.
Great Video. very easy to understand and follow. I saw the number plate of the car is based in TX. Is your shop located in TX? I wanted to have some work done on my car and it seems your quality of work is amazing. Thanks!
Yes, it’s in Katy, TX.
@@jackhfletcher What is your address? or the name of the shop? Thanks!
I don't know why you don't have more subs. As good as Eric O at SMA, Rainman Ray, and Motor City mechanic!!!!
Jack, my Mother’s 2012 3.5L Accord timing tensioner failed and jumped teeth. She had it towed to her house and wants me to check for damage. How many teeth can the timing be off before valves contact pistons? Is it better to just perform an air test on the spark plug holes? I don’t wany to crank it in case by some miracle it jumped time but not enough to cause pistons/valves to kiss.
Thank you for this video! Well done.
In a situation like that, it’s best to install a new timing belt and crank the engine to see if it starts. I wouldn’t worry about the water pump. Just change the timing belt and tensioner. Then try to start it like how I did in the video where you still have the covers off. If it starts right up then you’re good. If not, then the engine is toast. There’s no hard and fast rule about how many teeth the timing can be off before engine damage occurs. A lot of that depends on the circumstances of driving when the failure happened.
@@jackhfletcher She said she was pulling into the grocery store parking lot and it started running really rough and the CEL came on but she was able to park then shut it off and it has not been cranked since it was towed to the Honda shop where they ran a diagnostic test and said it jumped time and would have to tear into it to see if pistons kissed valves. I had it towed to her house to do the work my self because she decided to just buy a new car and gave me this one to fix and have as a backup. It only has 136,000 miles on it and only recently started the tensioner tapping noise.
I hate to only swap the timing belt without just installing the full timing kit while I’m in there but if pistons kissed valves that would be a waste unless I remove heads and rebuild the engine.
Thanks for the advice!
From what you’re saying, I bet the engine will be ok, but of course, there’s no guarantee. If you’re committed to fixing the car, no matter what, then you might as well do the full timing kit and hope for the best. Good luck!
@@jackhfletcher yessir thank you! I may need it. Awesome video, I will be using this. I’m a diesel mechanic, these Asian cars kill my big hands!
you did a really nice job do you think this would be the same process for a acura tl 2012 3.5 liter?
Yes it should be very similar as they are the same engine.
@@dy1angi11ey6 Thank you how did you hold up the engine without the block and the motor mount at like the 6:45 time stamp in the video
@@andys8144I haven’t done this yet as a still have a good bit of miles left before I’m going to replace the belt, but what I would do is after you jack up your car and place your jack stand, move the jack under your oil pan and place a piece of wood between the jack and pan. You don’t want to try to lift it/apply too much pressure to it, you just want it to touch a bit so it can support it.
will this work for a 2013 coupe v6?
How do you remove the crank pulley bolt after you already installed belt and your trying to put the crank pulley back on?? It just keeps spinning and throwing it out of dead center and I have no way of keeping it still. I have the bolt in there in order to spin the timing belt as needed. And now can’t get it out to put the crank back on
If you have an electric impact driver it will come right out. If not, then put the socket on a ratchet or small breaker bar. Once you’re on the crank bolt, strike the handle of the ratchet/breaker bar with a metal hammer as if you’re trying to loosen the bolt. If the bolt is only in there hand tight then it should break loose and come out.
When you put the jack under the oil pan while taking off the motor mount did you leave the jack under there the whole time?
He said if the engine doesnt shift then you can remove it. I'd leave it in place if its not in the way of anything. Also, floor jacks, being hydraulic, can slowly fall due to gravity so I'd give it a quick pump. Mine has been sitting overnight so I plan to adjust it when I get back out there. Otherwise you'll never get that motor mount back in place without jacking it up again.
Ola boa tarde.vc teria os valores de torques dos parafusos de todo o motor para vender?.estou montando um.mas estou com dificuldades para encontrar.
what kit did you buy and from where?
Nice video, I saved it for future reference. One question: after you removed motor mount bracket (3:55), you raised car on lift. When you did this, it seems that you are no longer supporting the engine with the block of wood under oil pan. So the engine support was only needed temporarily, for tension relief when removing motor mount bracket bolts, but the engine support was not needed after the bracket was removed?
Good question. You’re exactly right. On some cars, the engine drops down several inches when removing that upper mount, so I make it a habit to place a jack under the engine. In this case, it barely moved at all. Whether or not it moves a lot, the other mounts keep the engine in place so the jack isn’t needed after you remove the mount.