I did this same job with engine still in a few years ago and thought I screwed up. Got everything back together and went to start it. Idle was rough and threw CEL for cylinder misfire. Started to backtrack the assembly and didn’t have a coil pack harness on. It was just was hanging in the back. Connected it and everything was smooth as butter. Wasn’t looking forward to telling my wife that I just screwed up her van.
Done this a couple of times. Going for #3 due to collapsed tensioner. To ensure accuracy, paint stick the old belt with the alignment marks before pulling it. Paint complete line from front to back on both cams. To include the cams and the back alignment points. Also number the cam marks and arrow the direction of the belt. You cannot do that on the crank so just paint one of the teeth and mark the belt over that dot. Transfer to the new belt. Make sure to orient the belt in the same direction as the old belt. When installing one of the cam teeth will probably not line up. Just put socket on that cam and move as needed. Makes life much easier. Instead of putting the covers back on rotate the engine to ensure everything lines up. The paint marks will not line up when you rotate the engine. You can do it without installing the crank pulley, just use a lot of washers or install the pulley. Word of caution the washer you pulled off the crank is beveled. Make sure the bevel points outward. Installing it wrong will cut the belt and ruin your day. The purpose is to keep the belt on.
Thank you for the comments. Seeing everything with the engine out does make the inside the van repair a little easier. Thanks for watching. Please like the video and subscribe to the channel if you haven’t already.
As for any on stand motor would pull rear oil seal, injectors, plugs and coils and pull oil pick up tube. Get to everything you can get to including intake gaskets. Looks like really great video great job. You got an opportunity to make this easier on yourself motor out. That kit was on the money got everything you need.
Your concept of the battery rod threading into the tensioner pulley is backwards, the correct idea is that the rod compresses the tensioner when it is treaded in. This removes tension from the belt. I suppose Honda did this in case you needed to adjust the belt position on the cam/crank teeth and did not have a vice and grenade pin to compress the existing tensioner (when it is removed). If anyone is doing this at home: I recommend NOT doing the battery rod method as it is a MAJOR PITA when the engine is still in the car. Pop off the tensioner bolts and get a vice and pin to recompress the tensioner. Thanks for an informative video!
Thanks for the comments. Yes that portion of the service manual was tricky to understand the function of the battery rod. Thanks for clarifying and thanks for watching!
Yes sir! I did use that socket in the video and it worked great. Made getting that harmonic balancer off pretty easy. Thanks for watching and like and subscribe. More videos coming.
The insight on why the professional techs prefer to leave the cam/crank seals alone is enlightening. It's not really a matter of creating a leak by swapping seals, as most techs are quite capable of properly installing the seals. It's the rabbit hole of disturbing the cam positions with the timing belt off and all the labor to get everything positioned again. I would not expect that this is a big deal on a single overhead cam engine like these are though? Not a problem if things are all locked up (on a DOHC) with the valve covers removed and the cams locked in place, as they would be if you were also changing valve cover gaskets and adjusting valve lash at the 105k mile mark. But the flat-rate system works in everyone's favor except the technician (unless corners are cut) and the customer so skipping the seals is attractive and makes the shop money. In your case, I probably would have done the same thing with a clean, low-mileage motor, slap a belt in it while it's out and call it a day. The seals will likely be fine out to 210k (next service interval) if the engine oil is changed regularly and has a great additive package to keep them soft.
Very informative video . Question : Do I really need to put that metal you said from battery to hold the tensioner? Or can I just install the tensioner and straight pull the pin??
You do not have to support the engine after you remove that motor mount in front of the timing covers. That engine mount simply keeps the engine from vibrating. The front and rear engine mounts hold all the weight of the engine.
The old belt still looking good i bet you can put another 80k miles on it with no problem. The timing belt is not easy to break, i am not going replace timing belt until i hear ticking noise or other signs.
The most likely issue is one of the camshafts or the crankshaft has moved slightly. Or when installing the belt around the camshafts, the belt is off one tooth. It is very easy for one of those scenarios to happen. Once everything is aligned correctly, the belt will slide right up on the tensioner pulley. Be sure and install the belt on the crank first, then forward camshaft, then water pump, and lastly the rear camshaft. One of the above options should fix your issue. Good luck!
Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately the seller I purchased from is sold out. If you go to eBay and search “12 Odyssey Timing Belt Kit Genuine OEM”. Several other sellers are selling the kits so just look for the kits that have the parts still in OEM bags with OEM part #’s. Hopefully that helps. Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe.
Hate to be a hater here, but Honda does not sell a “kit”. Online sellers are notorious for selling counterfeit parts. Only use the Aisin kit or parts purchased directly from a Honda dealer. Anything else, and you’ll be replacing heads - guaranteed.
I purchased the kit off eBay. Below are the part #'s for what came in this kit. Qty 1 Timing Belt: 14400-RCA-A01 Qty 1 Idler Roller / Pulley: 14550-RCA-A01 Qty 1 Tensioner Roller / Pulley: 14510-RCA-A01 Qty 1 Water Pump & Gasket: 19200-RDV-J01 Qty 1 Hydraulic Tensioner: 14520-RCA-A01 Qty 2 Front Camshaft Seals: 91213-R70-A01 / 91213-RKG-003 Qty 1 Front Crankshaft Seal: 91212-R70-A01 / 91212-5MR-A01 Qty 1 Serpentine Drive Belt : 38920-RCA-A01 / 56992-R70-A01 / 56992-RV0-A05
Just a heads up I purchased this kit from ebay as well and theres alot of fake kits on there. Mechanic changed everything and it was working perfect. My timing belt snapped 3 months later and ended up having to do a head job. beware of these fake ebay kits. But great video!
MAKE SURE THAT IS NOT A COUNTERFEIT KIT , I DID THAT AND NOW I HAVE TO REPAIR OR REPLACE THE ENGINE. CHECK YOU TIMING BELT FOR CRACKS, MINE IT WAS ALL CRACKED AFTER 1 1/2 YEARS AND 15000 MILES.
Thanks for the info. We only deal in crashed/salvage vehicles so those manufacturer warranties are voided once a vehicle has a salvage certificate issued for it. Thanks for checking out the video!
Its alot easier when the engine is out of the car lol ... If it was me i would do the rear main seal...plugs...valve adjustment...only if i needed it though ..but now is the time
Yes much easier with the engine out! I have also done the same repair with the engine in the van and it isn’t to difficult. Takes approx 4 hours to do the repair with the engine still in the van.
I got a kit boxed just like that off ebay, worst mistake I made in 2023. I am now having to replace the engine after the supposed OEM belt broke. No more junk off ebay for me.
Great video. Thanks for doing it. I may not do the job, but it's sure nice to see what's involved. Liked your dialog with the process. Cheers from Canada!
I saw a whole bunch of kits on eBay and after seeing price difference and also packaging…it was too good to be true. I went oem from the dealer. It’s about $700 piece by piece but the engine is a lot more.
I work at Honda WE DO NOT …….NOT SELL KITS. Please don’t buy a kit you have to buy piece by piece or buy the Aisin kit which is made for Honda by Aisin. Also per the Manuel any and I really mean ANY bolt that is not holding just a cover on and that is torqued is a one time use bolt. This even includes the 19mm harmonic balancer crank bolt!!!.
I did this same job with engine still in a few years ago and thought I screwed up. Got everything back together and went to start it. Idle was rough and threw CEL for cylinder misfire. Started to backtrack the assembly and didn’t have a coil pack harness on. It was just was hanging in the back. Connected it and everything was smooth as butter. Wasn’t looking forward to telling my wife that I just screwed up her van.
😂😊🤝👍
Always always do 2 spins to make sure the timing still right after you put the new chain or belt on before finishing it up
8-10
Yes that is a good idea. Honda service manual recommends 6 revolutions and then check timing again.
Done this a couple of times. Going for #3 due to collapsed tensioner. To ensure accuracy, paint stick the old belt with the alignment marks before pulling it. Paint complete line from front to back on both cams. To include the cams and the back alignment points. Also number the cam marks and arrow the direction of the belt. You cannot do that on the crank so just paint one of the teeth and mark the belt over that dot. Transfer to the new belt. Make sure to orient the belt in the same direction as the old belt. When installing one of the cam teeth will probably not line up. Just put socket on that cam and move as needed. Makes life much easier.
Instead of putting the covers back on rotate the engine to ensure everything lines up. The paint marks will not line up when you rotate the engine. You can do it without installing the crank pulley, just use a lot of washers or install the pulley. Word of caution the washer you pulled off the crank is beveled. Make sure the bevel points outward. Installing it wrong will cut the belt and ruin your day. The purpose is to keep the belt on.
Great tip! Thanks for watching!
Really like seeing this done outside the van. Now I have a clear picture of what is where when I do this job myself.
Thank you for the comments. Seeing everything with the engine out does make the inside the van repair a little easier. Thanks for watching. Please like the video and subscribe to the channel if you haven’t already.
As for any on stand motor would pull rear oil seal, injectors, plugs and coils and pull oil pick up tube. Get to everything you can get to including intake gaskets. Looks like really great video great job. You got an opportunity to make this easier on yourself motor out. That kit was on the money got everything you need.
Install a muzzler to disable the VCM that causes misfires
Yes that does help fix some of the oil consumption and misfire issues. Thanks for watching.
Your concept of the battery rod threading into the tensioner pulley is backwards, the correct idea is that the rod compresses the tensioner when it is treaded in. This removes tension from the belt. I suppose Honda did this in case you needed to adjust the belt position on the cam/crank teeth and did not have a vice and grenade pin to compress the existing tensioner (when it is removed). If anyone is doing this at home: I recommend NOT doing the battery rod method as it is a MAJOR PITA when the engine is still in the car. Pop off the tensioner bolts and get a vice and pin to recompress the tensioner. Thanks for an informative video!
Thanks for the comments. Yes that portion of the service manual was tricky to understand the function of the battery rod. Thanks for clarifying and thanks for watching!
The way he did it in the video is correct. Just a shorter bolt would be needed if the engine is installed in the vehicle.
Nicely done & well explained 👍
YES TURNING THAT ENGINE TO DOUBLE CHECK ITS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
Theres a special socket for the harmonic balance..its a thick socket..weighted socket..works like a charm
Yes sir! I did use that socket in the video and it worked great. Made getting that harmonic balancer off pretty easy. Thanks for watching and like and subscribe. More videos coming.
He used the wrench in the video so why mention this.
Lisle 77080 19mm Harmonic Balancer Socket.
The insight on why the professional techs prefer to leave the cam/crank seals alone is enlightening. It's not really a matter of creating a leak by swapping seals, as most techs are quite capable of properly installing the seals. It's the rabbit hole of disturbing the cam positions with the timing belt off and all the labor to get everything positioned again. I would not expect that this is a big deal on a single overhead cam engine like these are though? Not a problem if things are all locked up (on a DOHC) with the valve covers removed and the cams locked in place, as they would be if you were also changing valve cover gaskets and adjusting valve lash at the 105k mile mark. But the flat-rate system works in everyone's favor except the technician (unless corners are cut) and the customer so skipping the seals is attractive and makes the shop money. In your case, I probably would have done the same thing with a clean, low-mileage motor, slap a belt in it while it's out and call it a day. The seals will likely be fine out to 210k (next service interval) if the engine oil is changed regularly and has a great additive package to keep them soft.
Very informative video . Question : Do I really need to put that metal you said from battery to hold the tensioner? Or can I just install the tensioner and straight pull the pin??
where did you get the timing belt kit from?? is there a link to order?
I would only add that replacing the camshaft seals and crank seal are well worth the extra time at this point.
Aisin kit is OEM
You do not have to support the engine after you remove that motor mount in front of the timing covers. That engine mount simply keeps the engine from vibrating. The front and rear engine mounts hold all the weight of the engine.
The old belt still looking good i bet you can put another 80k miles on it with no problem. The timing belt is not easy to break, i am not going replace timing belt until i hear ticking noise or other signs.
Yes the timing belt was in good condition and did a few miles left in it! Thanks for watching.
I always buy Aisin timing belts.
How are you able to slip the new belt on over the tensioner pulley so easily? I am trying to install my new belt and refusing to cooperate. Too tight.
The most likely issue is one of the camshafts or the crankshaft has moved slightly. Or when installing the belt around the camshafts, the belt is off one tooth. It is very easy for one of those scenarios to happen. Once everything is aligned correctly, the belt will slide right up on the tensioner pulley. Be sure and install the belt on the crank first, then forward camshaft, then water pump, and lastly the rear camshaft. One of the above options should fix your issue. Good luck!
Would you mind posting the link to where you the parts from?
Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately the seller I purchased from is sold out. If you go to eBay and search “12 Odyssey Timing Belt Kit Genuine OEM”. Several other sellers are selling the kits so just look for the kits that have the parts still in OEM bags with OEM part #’s. Hopefully that helps. Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe.
Я поставил лай и получилось 690👍
Not checking exhaust cam for time? 😳
Most shops only charge about 1000 -1500 for this job. Seems like it should be 3,000 for all that work and knowledge needed to do that repair.
You were able to remove from the top? You could get to to the trans and torque convertor bolts with it in the car?? 😮
I dropped the engine, transmission, and suspension subframe out the bottom as a complete assembly. Wasn’t to bad.
Thanks brother
Thanks for watching
Great Video
Hate to be a hater here, but Honda does not sell a “kit”. Online sellers are notorious for selling counterfeit parts. Only use the Aisin kit or parts purchased directly from a Honda dealer. Anything else, and you’ll be replacing heads - guaranteed.
How many miles on that motor and timing belt?
59K miles on the engine
Where did you purchase the kit? Part number?
I purchased the kit off eBay. Below are the part #'s for what came in this kit.
Qty 1 Timing Belt: 14400-RCA-A01
Qty 1 Idler Roller / Pulley: 14550-RCA-A01
Qty 1 Tensioner Roller / Pulley: 14510-RCA-A01
Qty 1 Water Pump & Gasket: 19200-RDV-J01
Qty 1 Hydraulic Tensioner: 14520-RCA-A01
Qty 2 Front Camshaft Seals: 91213-R70-A01 / 91213-RKG-003
Qty 1 Front Crankshaft Seal: 91212-R70-A01 / 91212-5MR-A01
Qty 1 Serpentine Drive Belt : 38920-RCA-A01 / 56992-R70-A01 / 56992-RV0-A05
Just a heads up I purchased this kit from ebay as well and theres alot of fake kits on there. Mechanic changed everything and it was working perfect. My timing belt snapped 3 months later and ended up having to do a head job. beware of these fake ebay kits. But great video!
MAKE SURE THAT IS NOT A COUNTERFEIT KIT , I DID THAT AND NOW I HAVE TO REPAIR OR REPLACE THE ENGINE. CHECK YOU TIMING BELT FOR CRACKS, MINE IT WAS ALL CRACKED AFTER 1 1/2 YEARS AND 15000 MILES.
Honda covered this problem under warranty. they extended it for a piston ring failure. you could of had all this done for free
Thanks for the info. We only deal in crashed/salvage vehicles so those manufacturer warranties are voided once a vehicle has a salvage certificate issued for it. Thanks for checking out the video!
Great vedio
Thank you! More videos coming. Please like and subscribe.
good presntation
Thank you! More videos to come! Please like and subscribe!
Thank bud
Thanks for watching!
Its alot easier when the engine is out of the car lol ... If it was me i would do the rear main seal...plugs...valve adjustment...only if i needed it though
..but now is the time
Yes much easier with the engine out! I have also done the same repair with the engine in the van and it isn’t to difficult. Takes approx 4 hours to do the repair with the engine still in the van.
You bot the kit I got to order one for my wife van
The kit worked great! Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe.
Do you want to sale the transmission I need one
Sorry not selling the transmission at this time. Thanks for watching and like/subscribe if you haven’t already!
Putting an engine in a vehicle that needs new spark plug seals /valve cover? 🤨
Napa $65. For timing belt
Thanks for the info and thanks for watching.
Honda doesnt provide a kit. Thats likely all counterfeits.
The Honda dealers sell the kits, I bought one to do this exact repair
I got a kit boxed just like that off ebay, worst mistake I made in 2023. I am now having to replace the engine after the supposed OEM belt broke. No more junk off ebay for me.
Great video. Thanks for doing it. I may not do the job, but it's sure nice to see what's involved.
Liked your dialog with the process.
Cheers from Canada!
I saw a whole bunch of kits on eBay and after seeing price difference and also packaging…it was too good to be true. I went oem from the dealer. It’s about $700 piece by piece but the engine is a lot more.
I work at Honda WE DO NOT …….NOT SELL KITS. Please don’t buy a kit you have to buy piece by piece or buy the Aisin kit which is made for Honda by Aisin. Also per the Manuel any and I really mean ANY bolt that is not holding just a cover on and that is torqued is a one time use bolt. This even includes the 19mm harmonic balancer crank bolt!!!.
You shouldn’t removed the pulley 😅and removed a motor out just to do timing belt is a lot labor
used motor...
I noticed that when you put the new timing belt tensioner on, you didn't move the bushing over from the old to new. Can't float now.
Donor van was crashed so had to remove the engine and doing a timing belt while the engine is out. Thanks for watching!