You are an excellent and patient teacher. My advice is to mark the cap, wires and firing order with a paint marker before disassembling all those parts, then no confusion on re assembly. I now understand the importance of correct air gap inside dist cap thanks to your tutorial. Keep those videos coming, I'll be in the classroom; and all the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
Greetings...stewart bruce........Thanks for watching........Also, thanks kindly, for your nice comment, my friend........Me, a teacher...???...nah, not really, but perhaps, I really should be grateful for, all of the great mentors, that I had, while I was growing up, and besides, all of what, you see and hear me doing here, is basically, just some of the hobbies, that I became interested in, and studied somewhat........If you haven't already heard of this, shall we say, additional, paint marking (so called...lol) "secret", then, here Ya go........Before removing the distributor from the engine, just simply, paint a line, on the distributor's body, where it meets up with the engine, and continue a straight line, right onto the engine, and, when it comes time, to re-install, that very same distributor, just match up that painted line again, bolt it down, and, the initial/base ignition timing, will be super close, to where it was, before the distributor was removed, cool huh, oh, and, don't forget to take notice, in which direction, that, the rotor was pointing to, before removal (on a small block Chevy V-8, I like to have, the number one piston/cylinder, at TDC/Top Dead Center, on the compression/firing stroke...&...the line on harmonic balancer, in line with zero degrees, on the timing tab, and also, having the tip of the rotor, pointing at, the number one cylinder (that be, the cylinder, that's on the left/front side of the engine, as you're sitting in the driver's seat).........So then, even if, I don't have a UA-cam video, of something you want to know about, just simply, post a (comment) "question", under any of my UA-cam videos, and, if I'm able to help you out, then, I will do so.........Thanks again, and.......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow Thank you Rocky with the information you just provided. I have a problem with my 88 240 volvo that has a racing idle. If your familiar with solving that problem, I will describe the steps I took including checking for air leak with starting fluid and propane. If you have the time and guidance that would be appreciated.
You can clean many of the contact points - can even use sand paper to remove corrosion - in a pinch. Thanks to all of the men who taught me things about cars. You've saved me thousands of dollars and much heart ache! I wish parts manufacturers would make parts grey or another color so that I can write on it with magic marker. I had to use red nail polish to mark the wire order....took too long. Some guys write the date the new part was put on and i think that is extremely nifty. If the part is black, you can't see marker - though paint pens are sold in craft supplies stores/areas.
Greetings...Fabian Rodriguez...…….Thanks for the nice comment, and, thanks for watching too...…...I will leave a reply to your question, that's on your other comment posting...
Greetings Krystian Leesowy....You are welcome my Friend, and, Thank-You, for pointing out the lack of Information that I provided on the 1st Part (video) of, Inspecting the Cap & Rotor, as it had me make a 2nd Video to address the 1st Videos lack of Information there-of....Just try to remember the old saying, "The Chain is only as Strong as the Weakest Link", as it applies to your Ignition System....It only takes "1" Bad Wiring Connection to Mess Things Up!....Take care, and have a good one
Greetings...Sam Logosz………….You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...……..Just try to keep in mind, that, there are quite a few, automotive parts and pieces, that are hidden from view, that will start to get worn, or maybe, worn out, as the engine accumulates, more and more, hours of operation on it, and...…..till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks for the video. It helped me to learn about ignition system. In the video you showed two types of distributor caps, the DIN and SAE types. What I was looking for was a comparison of both types regarding electrical conduction or resistance and reliability. One thing can be noted that vehicles of 1990s started using SAE type caps before going to distributorless systems.What if the older DIN type cap is replaced with the new SAE type?
Syed Imran Shah Greetings Syed Imran Shah....Thanks for watching this "Distributor and Rotor Condition", UA-cam Video of mine, and for Your very Interesting, shall we say...Comparison, as well as, maybe Switching, as You indicated, the Distributor Cap/s, from One Style, or Generation (aka, Year, or Time period, of Distributor Design/Development) between, "2" or More", of the Many Types of Distributor Designs, that Exist, to this very Day....................................................The following, are only my Observations, Opinion, and, all of what, I studied, and to some extent, learned, over, countless hours, of reading-about, working on/tinkering with, and, last but not least..."Automotives"...(amongst many other things as well), just happen to be, a "Hobby" of mine, and, I'm not a certified Mechanic, nor, have I ever worked in, an "Automotive Repair Establishment" at all............................................................That "Light Tan" colored Distributor Cap, (as seen in this video), was off of a "Mid 1970's Dodge, small block V-8 Distributor, that housed a Reluctor style of Triggering system, who's Signal, was Sent, to the "Transistorized" Ignition Box, mounted on the Firewall of the Vehicle, that basically, took the place of the, good ole..."Points and Condenser"...Style of Distributor/Ignition System......................................................Both, this Newer Type of Transistorized System (at that time), as well as, the Points and Condenser Style of Distributor, were Only "Controlling" an Ignition Coil, that was only Required to, Output a Much "Lower"..."High Secondary Voltage" (that made its way to the spark plugs, via, the, spark plug leads/wires), as "Compared To", that of, something like, the "HEI" (High Energy Ignition) System, that the General Motors Company, began to Install, on their Vehicle's, oh, somewhere around 1975, and onward, until, Distributors, as such, were, somewhat abandoned, in favor, of what we are seeing today....................................................Using the Older, Factory Original, Oil-Filled Ignition Coils, as an example, that were used, up, until, about 1974, who's Secondary High Voltage Output, was only Required to "Jump", a Spark Plug "Gap", of, mostly, as I've seen, being .035" (thirty-five thousandths of an inch)...where-as, using the Factory Installed HEI V-8 "Stand-Alone" Distributor, as an example, as far as Chevy (Chevrolet) V-8 Engines, that I worked on, were concerned, usually had a Spark Plug "Gap" of .045" (fourty-five thousandths of an inch).................................................These Factory HEI "Stand Alone" Distributors, are something else alright, and, here's an Outstanding example for You........................................................Around the late 1970's, to the early 1980's, the "Oldsmobile" ("One", of many Names/Brands, Owned by, the GMC Parent Company, as far as I recall), had a "4.3 Litre/260 Cubic Inch (displacement) V-8 Engine", that had the Ability, to, Use, the Factory Specified, Spark Plug "Gap", of .080"...!!!...(eighty thousandths of an inch), and, if You would like the Metric Equivalent, then...(.080 Divided By .03937) = 2.032 Millimeters...!!!...or, in other words, the "LARGER" the Spark Plug "Gap", happens to be, the "HIGHER" the Ignition Coil's "Secondary High Voltage Output", has to be, in order, to Successfully "JUMP", that, sometimes, Very Large, Spark Plug "Gap" (aka, Distance).......................................................Now then, the "Ignition Systems", that only needed, the "Lower, Secondary Voltage Output"...to "Jump", those Smaller, Spark Plug "Gaps"..."Did Not" have much of a problem with, shall we say, "Spark Scatter" (inside of the distributor cap), as well as, what is usually called "Induction Cross-fire" (that's where, if conditions permit, the High, Secondary Voltage, traveling though the Intended spark plug Lead/Wire, would actually get "Induced", into another spark plug wire, that was in close proximity, and usually Parallel to each other as well), and, the result would usually be, some very un-wanted, Ignition System related, "Miss-Fire"....................................................Now then, by using the HEI V-8 Distributor as an example, its' very easy to "See", just how much "LARGER", the "Outside Diameter/Perimeter", of this HEI "Distributor Cap"..."Is"...as Compared to something like, that "Tan Colored" Distributor Cap, that is seen in this Video of mine...!!!..........................................I'll bet, that most People, are probably thinkin', that, the Reason, for this..."Much Larger HEI Distributor Cap"...was just made that "LARGE", so they, (the Engineers/Designers), would have enough Space/Room, in order to have a "Mounting Place", for that "Epoxy Type of Ignition Coil", that can be seen, residing there, maybe...???..."But", here's My Take, on the Real Reason, that, that HEI V-8 "Distributor Cap, is So "LARGE"................................................Apparently, the Government, of the Day, Mandated, the ever Decreasing, and Tightening, of the "Amount of Emissions", that were Allowed to be "Emitted Out of the Vehicles Tail Pipe/s", so, to be in "Compliance", with the, shall we say, "Emission Standards/Law/s", of that Time period, Our Friends, the Vehicle Manufacturers, had to come up with, and Engineer/Design, the appropriate "Emission Systems", in order to "Lower" the Vehicles, Tail Pipe "Emissions", to be "Low Enough & be in Compliance with", what the Government/s, made into Law.....................................................One of those "Emissions Reducing Systems", was that of, finding a way, to be able to "Burn", an "Air/Fuel Ratio", that was, quite a bit "Leaner", then that, of the ""Richer" "Air/Fuel Ratio (aka, Mixture).............................................Thus, in order to Be Able to "Initiate...the actual, usual..."Lower Engine Compression Ratio"...and..."Much Leaner, Air/Fuel Mixture"..."Burn"...in the Engine's Combustion Chamber", it was, as I see it, the "Need", for a..."More Intense, and Larger Spark"...Between, the Spark Plugs "Electrodes"...!!!..............................................As I see it, the "Higher, the Ignition Coil's, Secondary, High Voltage, Is"...and having Spark Plugs, with "Much Larger Electrode Gaps", in that particular Ignition System..."IS"...the "Reason For", that GMC's, V-8 Engine's, HEI "Distributor Cap", Being, so much "LARGER" (physically, and diametrically as well), oh, yeah, the "Reason Being"...To "Contain", and to "Prevent Spark Scatter", and probably, All of the resulting, Ignition System related...Spark Plug..."Miss-Fire-ing"...as well...!!!......................................................Now then, let's move on to, that "Smaller (black) Distributor Cap", with that, as I see it..."Way Under-Designed, Too Small, of a Carbon Button, for its Intended Use"...that is seen in this Video of mine, shall we..............................................The Spark Plug "Gaps", being, that of .045" (fourty-five thousandths of an inch), that, that "Distributor Cap, with the Tiny Carbon Button", was supposed to be responsible for, and having a "Separate" epoxy-filled Ignition Coil, with its Own, Lead/Wire, that Joined the Ignition Coil, to the Distributor Cap's Center Terminal/Tower, is, as I see, to be considered, having the Same, there-abouts, High Secondary Output Voltage, as Compared, to that, of its "Big Brother", the, so much "LARGER stand alone V-8 HEI Distributor, and my reason, for saying such a thing, is due to a very Fact, that, the Spark Plug "Gaps", being that of, the very same as, the Spark Plug "Gaps" that are "Also Found", in the "LARGE Distributor Cap Style HEI...and in Both of them, the Spark Plug "Gaps" are "Identical", being .045 (fourty-five thousandths of an inch)...!!!................................................On the HEI, with the LARGE Distributor Cap, I never had much of an Issue, with "Spark Scatter" on Factory Stock Engines, as in, "High Voltage Sparks", Dancing around Inside said Distributor Cap, unless, any, or all, of the 8 Internal Terminals, have become, Too Worn, usually due to, High Voltage, Arcing (Electrical Erosion) Between All 8 Internal, Distributor Cap Terminals, and, the "Tip of the Rotor"..................................................Now then, what were they thinking, when they chose to, Install, such a "Small (diameter) Distributor Cap", with such an "Wimpy Carbon Button" , as Compared to its..."Big Brother, the HEI, with the LARGE Distributor Cap", and a much LARGER Carbon Button as well, which, and again, as I see it..."The Solution", to Ward-Off, any potential..."Spark Scatter"...and...the resulting Ignition related...Spark Plug "Miss-Fire"...???................................................One thing, that I did Notice, was, I'm guessin', that, they thought it was alright to Use, a Much Smaller (diameter) Distributor Cap, probably, because, on a 6 Cylinder (in this case, a V-6), there are "Only 6"...Internal Terminals, making for "More Spacing", between, any Two (circumference-wise) & (internal) Distributor Cap Terminals, as opposed to, trying to "Cram", 8 (Internal) Distributor Cap terminals, into such a "Confined Space".........................................As I see it, Not only is the "Carbon Button"..."Wimpy"...but...the..."Rotor"...that Spins around "Inside" that Little Distributor Cap, is..."Just as Wimpy"...as well..............................................When it comes to, just about Any..."Very High Secondary Voltage Output" (no, not the much Lower Output Voltage, found in, something like a Factory installed points and condenser distributor, with a .035" spark plug gap), but rather, with spark plug "Gaps", of, oh, .045" or Larger, in a given Ignition System, there's only so much, the "Material", that the Distributor Cap, is made out of, is able "To Do", in as far as, being able to..."Contain & Insulate"...All of that...""Very High Secondary Output Voltage"......................................................That's probably Why, the "Larger HEI stand alone Distributor", has been Welcomed with Open Arms, by the Aftermarket/Performance Companies out there................................................Also, in the case of a GMC style HEI, stand alone, Distributor, with its One Wire/12-Volt supply Hook-up, and, if that's not enough, then, there is the "Easy to See" & "Easy to Work-0n/Modify"..."Mechanical Advance System"...with the..."Advance Weights and Springs"...on top, once you remove the Distributor Cap & Rotor, that is....................................................In closing, as it pertains to "Exchanging", different Types/Styles of Distributor Caps...both, the "Pros & Cons", being considered....................................................First consideration, would be, that of having the "Exchanged Part"..."Physically Fitting Properly"...on the "Distributor Housing/Unit"...that's a Must/Given............................................The Best "Material" (Space-Age Quality), that would "Contain and Insulate", the very High "Secondary Voltage" would be very good Insurance, for Reliability and Performance, as well as, Long Engine Life (if You take it, somewhat easy!)..........................................On Distributor Caps, I like "Brass Terminals", more then I care for "Aluminum" (much better electrical conductivity, and perhaps, longer life as well)...........................................Remember to Buy "Quality and Reputable Parts"...as that, is about the "Best Medicine", that I can "Prescribe", at this time.......................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
So I've got a 1971 F100 with a 5.9 V8. I recently replaced the spark plugs and wires, but after I did that it had a horribly loud knock. It was running just fine that day until I changed the plugs and wires. Could it be the distributor/cap?
I have a 1989 Ford Bronco 351 V8 no performance parts are nothing I just remember pulling out my truck in my driveway to back it out next I just shut down completely all I hear is like it sounds like a dead battery but I replace the battery and still acting the same thank you for responding me back
+John Luna ....Greetings John Luna....You're Welcome............Well, there are quite a few things, that can cause, just about any Engine to Stop Running alright.............If Your Engine is Fuel Injected, then, there are 2 Things, that should be done, in order to help Diagnose, any and all Engine Problems..........The Fuel Pressure should be Tested, with a Fuel Pressure Gauge, to make sure, that it's "With-in" the Vehicle Manufacturers "Specifications", for Your "Exact" Vehicle and Engine, oh, and, be Very Careful, as some of those "Fuel Pressures", could get as High as, about "60 PSI/Pounds per Square Inch"...!!!...so, be Sure to Wear Safety Glasses/Goggles, and have a Fire Extinguisher with-in reach...!!!............Then, Extract/Read any "Trouble Codes" (if there are Any, that is), from Your Vehicle's "On-Board Computer's/Memory".................Have You Looked for any Obvious "External" Gasoline "Leaks" at all...???..................All Electrical Wiring "Connections", have to be "Clean & Dry", in order to Prevent, any, Not-Wanted (Electrical) Resistance, or maybe, No-Connection at all, perhaps.................Depending on, just how, Your Bronco's Engine Quit Running on You, can be quite the Clue alright...........Even something like a Plugged-Up Catalytic Converter, can, shall we say "Suffocate" Your Engine's (exhaust system's) Breathing ability, and if really Bad, the Engine, will probably have No-Guts, and might even Stall..............Even though, a Brand New, Fully Charged-Up Battery, might have lots of Power (as in, lots of cold cranking Amps/Amperes), along with a really good Starting System/Starter Motor, then, at times, all it takes, for the Engine to Crank-Over "Slowly"...or..."Not at all", is to have, a "Flooded Engine" (as in, way too much Gasoline, that got into the Engine's Cylinders), that will Slow-Down, or Prevent the Pistons, from going "Up", on the Compression Stoke, in any of the Engine's, (gasoline) Flooded Cylinders.............Might be, that, Your Bronco's, Charging System, isn't Charging the Battery, as it should be doing, possibly...???.................Here's about the best advice, that I have for You, at this point in time.................Maybe, do an Internet Search, for some Ford Truck Websites, that have "Forums" on them, where You can Ask all kinds of Questions, about Your "Exact" Bronco and Engine, cuz, there are some, really Smart People, on most of those Website "Forums", and there is the possibility, that some of those People, have already "Diagnosed & Fixed" Problems, much like You are having at the moment...................They should be able to tell You, how to go about, Extracting any Trouble Codes, that might be Stored, in Your Bronco's, Computer Memory, as well as, how to Test the Fuel Pressure (I hope).........Good Luck, and.........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Rocky, how can you tell what is the #1 terminal on the cap if it's not marked? I have a late '60's MOPAR and looks like your tan cap in the video. Thx.
Greetings...Michael H.................Thanks for watching................If it were only that easy..................You were sayin', that, You have a late 60's Mopar there, and that's a good start (to things) alright, but, there are quite a few differences, between, a Mopar's set of Spark Plug "Wire's", shall we say, "Arrangement", as there are...6 Cylinder Engines...and 8 Cylinder Engines, that have their Distributors, mounted on the Engine, in different places, and, not only that, but, some "Rotors", inside the Distributor Cap, Revolve/Turn...Clockwise...while others...Spin...Anti-Clockwise (or Counter-Clockwise)..............Then, there's the...Firing Order...for that Exact Engine as well.................Usually, the inline 6 Cylinder Engines, and the Small Block V-8 Engines (up-to about 360 cubic inch displacement, having their Distributors, at the back of the engine), then, the "Rotor", will usually Spin in a Clockwise direction, where-as, a...Big Block V-8 (oh, about, 383 to 440 cubic inch displacement, will probably have the Distributor, at the Front of the engine), and the Rotor, will probably be Spinning "Counter-Clockwise" (same as sayin', anti-clockwise)...............If You can let me know, "Exactly", what Your Engine actually is...and...has You Distributor been Removed, or Re-Installed, or, are You, just tryin' to install, a New Set of Spark Plug "Wires", perhaps...???...cuz, otherwise, I'll just be going on, another one, of my favorite..."Wild Goose Chases"...!!! (again)...lol...................So, if You care to, just let me know, all that You can, as it applies to, just what...???... You happen to be up against, that way, I'll have a much better chance, at being able to help You out...thanks, and.........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank u, I needed to know about the existence of a 'carbon button.' so u said, " it never fails.." -something like that.. - what if it broke on my distributor? Like the button is off broken in half
I am looking at some replacement caps & rotors for my car. I see different contact materials (in order of cheapest to most expensive): steel, graphite, stainless steel, and brass. Is it worth buying the better parts for a clunker? Specifically, a 1993 Grand Cherokee. If steel will last 2-3 years, then I'm fine with that. Can I mix the contact materials? I.e., a cap with steel contacts and a rotor with brass.
Greetings Adam Klingenberger....My advice, and what I usually do with an Average Car or Truck (aka Grocery Getter), would be, to stick with "Brand-Name" Parts for starters, as opposed to Cheap, and Low Quality Parts, that may not work all that well, or, last all that long either....Seeing as how you classified your Jeep Grand Cherokee as a Clunker?, I take it that you would like to have your Ride Run Properly at the Lowest Price possible perhaps?....If that be the case, then I would at least recommend going with a Distributor Cap with "Brass" Terminals (only a little more Cost over Aluminum Terminals in the distributor cap)....Aluminum Terminals in the Cap will "Erode" (electrical arc) at a faster rate then the Brass ones, although, Aluminum terminals will still get the job done....Also, some of the Manufacturers out there, are Molding in, what look like "Vents" on top of the Distributor Cap (kinda looks like a "Mini-Tower"), and, I think that they did this to Minimize "Condensation" (water droplets) inside the Cap (just something that you may have on your new Cap, as a Bonus Feature!)....Now for the Rotor....The "Tip" of the rotor is usually made of Steel, and that will work just fine....The Springy Steel "Strip" that connects with the Center Contact inside the Distributor Cap is usually a Bright Silver Metal (either a type of Spring Steel or Stainless Steel)...and...(a better/more expensive type of Stainless Steel will be "Anti-Magnetic", and, can easily be checked with a fairly Strong Permanent-Magnet as well)....The thing to look out for with some of the Rotors that I have seen, is, to have a close look at how the metal Tip (usually a flat bar of steel) is "Secured" to the rest of the Rotor Material....Watch-out here now, as some of them are Barely secured with, what looks like the Rotor Material just being "Melted" (probably by Heat), and, from my perspective, is rather "Weak" to say the least....Also, have a look, and see if any of the Parts Places in the area where you reside, offer the Distributor Cap and Rotor as a "Kit" (Kit = Cap and Rotor in the same package), as, that will save you some Money as well (I have found that buying them Separately usually costs more, most of the time)....Also, no matter how much money that you decide to spend, it would be in your best interest to Check these "Hidden" things (namely, in this case, Your Cap and Rotor) at least once a Year, or at 12,000 Miles/20,000 Kilometers interval, whichever comes first!....Make sure that you "Check" your "Base-Ignition-Timing" immediately after you install the New Distributor Cap and Rotor, as, there are Manufacturing "Tolerances" of these parts, that Don't Guarantee that your Ignition Timing will be the same as before!.... Don't forget now, there's a "Whole-Lotta-High-Voltage-Sparkin-Goin-On!!!"...lol....So then, I recommend going with a "Brand-Name" Distributor Cap with "Brass-Terminals" (might even have that Mini-Tower that I had mentioned earlier), and, a "Brand-Name" Rotor as well (the one that is in the "Kit", if you go that route, will be just fine)....Now, Go Shopping!...lol...Good Luck....Take care, and have a good one.
I just spent a grand on a brand new carburetor timing and a tuneup on my 77 Ford LTD with a 400 Engine. I am assuming the mechanic set the carburetter screws up correctly But the spark plugs are black and sooty? Along with the exhaust pipes Also. The car hasn’t been running for years when I bought it three years ago and wasn’t running as bad when I first bought it so I assume the engine is just plain wearing out? There is some blow by coming out of the oil cap when it’s running so it could be piston rings or who knows what I’m just wondering why the spark plugs are so sooty.
Greetings...Wolfwagon C...……..Thanks for watching...……..Well, black "carbon", that's covering the things that you mentioned, might be, too much fuel (gasoline), in the air/fuel ratio (mixture), or, too weak of a spark, between the spark plug's electrodes (ignition misfire, possibly?), and also, sometimes, one or more (engine) cylinders, not having enough compression, in it/or them, as the case may be...…….Too rich of an air/fuel ratio/mixture, can sometimes, be caused by the carburetor's "choke" plate, not fully opening-up, into it's, usually "vertical" (up and down) position, when the engine is fully warmed-up to operating (coolant) temperature, as in, a choke plate, that's not fully opened up, will restrict the amount of "air", that's entering the top of the carburetor, which will make the carburetor run too rich, when the engine is fully warmed-up...……Also, the carburetor's "float" (inside), can sometimes be faulty, not adjusted correctly, stuck some-what, and also, on much older carburetors, there can be times, where the float, might even sink to some extent, which will allow gasoline, to rise (up), too high in the carburetor's float bowl, which usually results in, way too much gasoline, being dumped into the engine (not so good...right?)………..Also, the needle and seat (valve), that the float actuates, might not be sealing properly, when-ever it needs to be, as in, when-ever the carburetor's float bowl, gets up to its full gasoline level (sometimes, dirt/debris or crud, on the needle & seat, will cause the same problem, just so Ya know)....….If the carburetor on your 400 cubic inch engine, is like the original carburetor, then, I'm thinkin', that, it could be the model 2150 Ford, 2-barrel (Motorcraft or Autolite maybe?), and, if it's like the model 2100 carburetor, then, it might have had, a bracket on the side of it, where, one of the coolant (that be, the anti-freeze and water mixture), rubber heater (core)"hoses", sat in, right next to the carburetor's thermostatic choke spring housing, to help warm-up that spring, to make it relax (un-coil itself?), when-ever the coolant's temperature gets hotter, so the choke plate will open-up, to it's "fully open...vertical" position, so, have that "checked-out", just in case...…..On your (maybe?), model 2150 carburetor, there might be a small canister looking item, that's usually called a "choke pull-off"...or sometimes, it's called a..."vacuum break"...and, it is responsible for opening the choke plate, just a little bit, when the cold engine is first started, so, make sure that it's adjusted and working properly...….....There is something called a "spark tester", that doesn't cost very much, that will usually have 2 electrodes in it, that are spaced apart a certain amount, and also, there is an adjustable one, that has markings on it, marked in the thousands of volts, and to use one, just follow the spark tester's instructions, to test the strength of the ignition system's output...…….With the engine "not running", it's usually, just a matter of, plugging the spark tester, into one of the spark plug wires, and, connecting a/the ground wire, from the spark tester, to a good engine "ground"...…….There's bound to be some "blow-by", when-ever an engine reaches the 100,000 mile mark, that's showing, on the vehicle's odometer, and, for the most part, it's probably due to, the piston ring's "end gap", getting larger, as the rings and cylinder (diameter) wears a certain amount...……..To test for the amount of "blow-by", I usually "remove" the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve, and any hoses, that are connected to the valve cover, or covers, as the case may be, and, having the engine fully warmed-up to operating temperature and running, I have a look-see, as to, how much...???..."blow-by"..."Smoke"...is coming out of, any of the open holes on the valve/valve covers...……..A simple "compression test", can be done, on all 8 cylinders (one at a time, of course...lol), in order to see, what kind of cylinder "pressure" (compression), that, there happens to be...…….The good ole rule of thumb, use-tah be, 100 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) "minimum", of cylinder pressure (as in, at the very least), and also, not having too much of a difference, in cylinder "pressure", between all 8 cylinders, as it applies to your 400 cubic inch "V-8" engine...…….Make sure that, all ignition system parts & pieces are in like new condition, and, the air and fuel filters are really clean too...…….If you are still having trouble, after checking the above things, then, just give me a shout...…….Good luck, and...…..till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi, I have a 86 Scottsdale k20 with a sbc 350. When I go to start my truck it turns over and runs but it makes a popping noise out the exhaust, no flames or anything it just pops. I replaced plugs, and plug wires and I have a brand new battery too. All of which are the best money can buy (so I was told) after installing the new parts it still pops very loudly. Is there maybe a issue with my cap/ rotor? The truck ran fine 3 weeks prior but I don't drive it everyday. I just turned 16 and I spent every last penny I had on this vehicle. Can you please help me out!!!! I'll take in consideration any ideas! Thanks -CJ
+C McCav ....Greetings C McCav....Thanks for watching................Now then, let's see, if we can find out, what's causin' all of that "Pop-in", shall we..................The first thing that comes to mind (mine, that is), happens to be...are All 8 spark plug "Wires"...Installed in the "Correct Order", around the top of the Distributor Cap...???...cuz, if only 2 of them, are Switched with one-another (more is even worse), then, the Engine won't Run Smoothly at all, and, could very well, be causing, the...pop...Pop...POP...that You were Hearing............The Distributor "Rotor" (inside the distributor cap), will usually Revolve/Spin, in a "Clockwise" Direction (as viewed from above), on Chevy 350 (V-8) Engine...................The "Firing Order" (that be, the Order, in which the engine's Cylinders Fire), on a Chevy 350-V8, is usually...1...8...4...3...6...5...7...2...and the spark plug "Wires", have to be Placed in that Order, around the Top of the Distributor Cap, in a Clockwise Direction (as viewed from above), and Hopefully, the Number 1 spark plug "Wire", is in the "Correct" (starting) Position, on top of the Distributor Cap to begin with, or, the Engine, just won't Run right, if, at all.............The Chevy 350...V-8's "Cylinder Numbering", is as follows........As You are..."Sitting in the Driver's Seat"...on the "Left Side" of the Engine, You have, the Number 1 Cylinder, Closest to the Front of the Vehicle, then Number 3, then Number 5, then Number 7....................Then, on the "Right Side" of the Engine (while still Sitting in the Driver's Seat...lol), You have, Cylinder Number 2, Closest to the Front of the Vehicle, then Number 4, then Number 6, then Number 8......................So, "Make Sure", that, the spark plug "Wires", on the Distributor Cap, are in Their Correct Places/Firing Order, while also having, Each spark plug "Wire", Going-to, the "Correct", Cylinder Number's spark plug................I usually, just wrap a piece of masking tape, around each spark plug "Wire", leaving, what, kinda looks-like, a Flag-like...looking end on it, where I use a Felt Pen, and write the Cylinder Numbers, 1 through 8, on them, cuz, I find it much easier, to see, where Each of those spark plug "Wires" are coming-from...and...where they-are going-to...as well...!!!...lol...........A Lady, was tellin' me, a while ago, how She used Different Colors of Nail-Polish, to, shall we say..."Color-Code"...each of the spark plug "Wires"...Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...that is one Smart Lady alright...!!!.....................So then, once You "Verify", that All of Your spark plug "Wires" are "Installed" properly, in Their Correct Positions, and are in the Correct Firing Order as well, and You are still having, that Popping sound, just let me know, and we can proceed from there, if You like...............Good Luck, and.........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings INTERNA9....Thanks for Your comment, and, for viewing this Distributor Cap and Rotor Condition (Part 2) video of mine as well...The reason that I made this "Part 2" Video, is, because, someone pointed out to me, that I didn't address some of the, shall we say, "Finer Points", of, what to be looking out for, when Inspecting the Distributor Cap and Rotor, in relation to, Faults, Problems, Wear, and anything, that just might cause an Ignition "Miss-Fire", and then some!....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I have a 97 Nissan altima it turns over but doesn't start sometimes it starts for a sec then goes right back to turning over with no start what could it be also my starter signal is not getting any power
Greetings Jamiliah Collier....There are "Many" things, that can cause similar "Symptoms", such as the one/ones that that Your Car is experiencing....It may be a "Fuel Starvation" Problem, that could include a Faulty Electric Fuel Pump (that Hides inside Your Car's gas tank), or, any of the related Electrical Parts, such as a Fuel Pump Relay, or, even something as simple as a Clogged Fuel Filter perhaps....It might even be an Ignition problem....I have found that sometimes, the following might get Your Car's Engine Running, but, No Guarantee, and, the Price is right...Free!!! Try starting Your car's Engine, using the following procedure, as I have found that, in some circumstances, to worked for me. You can try the following, with Your Car's Engine Cold or Hot... Make sure Your Car is on Level Ground, In Park (automatic transmission), with Emergency/Parking Brake On. Just Hold Your Gas Pedal Down, about 1/3 (one third) of the way, and hold it there, while engaging the Starter. If it Starts, get Your Foot Off of the Gas Pedal, to keep Your Engine from Spinning Too Fast (and may Damage Your Engine). Will the Engine Start, and keep Running? What You will probably have to get done, is, to get Your Car's ECU (Car's On-board Computer) "Scanned", with a Device, called a "Scan Tool" (kinda looks like a Big Calculator), that will "Extract" any "Trouble Codes" that might be "Stored" in Your ECU (aka, cars computer). The "Trouble Codes" (if any), will "Inform" a Person, in a pretty precise way, as to what might be wrong with any of the Sensors, Actuators, Electrical Circuits, and, even the ECU itself, as the case may be. Here's a Tip, to help "Extend" the Life of Your (in the gas tank) Electric Fuel Pump... ...It's Simple, really, just keep Your Car's Gas Tank at least 1/4 Full (one quarter), at all times, Never less! The reason being, that, the Gasoline itself, helps to keep that (in the gas tank) electric fuel pump "Cool", otherwise, it might just get a little bit too hot, shortening the useful life, of that "Expensive" Electric Fuel Pump, not to mention, the Labor Costs, to Install the New One, in the gas tank!!! (Hundreds of Dollars!!!). Like I was saying in a previous comment/reply...Start with a Proper "Tune-Up", that has to be done anyway. Best of Luck... Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Jerrad Schlemmer..............Thanks for watching............If, that flat metal piece, that's on top of the Rotor, is what you're asking about, then, it's the flat metal bar, if you will, that, conducts the high voltage electricity, from the distributor cap's, center carbon/resistor button (where it makes contact with that flat metal bar), then, that high voltage goes through the flat metal bar, all the way to its Tip, then, the high voltage Arcs (sparks) over, to one of the side Terminals (inside of the distributor cap), that is in the closest position (as in, the one that's lining up with the Tip of the rotor, at that particular time), then, through that distributor cap's (side) terminal, the high voltage electricity goes, then, through the spark plug wire, then, into the spark plug it goes, then, if everything is working properly, there will be a high voltage arc/spark, happening, between, the spark plug's, (two) electrodes..............The ignition coil, is what produces that high voltage to begin with, and, the high voltage electricity travels, out of the ignition coil's, high voltage/secondary terminal, then, through a shorter looking spark plug wire, who's other end, attaches, to the center terminal/tower, that's on top of the distributor cap, just so Ya know.............If the above, is not what you are wanting to know about, then, let me know, the best that you can, about what it might be, if it happens to be different from, what I was already telling you about, thanks, and..........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Fabian Rodriguez...…….As far as I know, there are-not, very many distributor caps, that have a separate, and, able to be changed, "carbon contact button"...……..The General Motors V-8 engine's, HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributor, that has a very Large distributor cap, does have, a separate carbon contact button, which can be replaced, or, if need be, a Low Resistance, carbon contact button (aftermarket one), can be installed as well...……..There might be, an aftermarket distributor (not an original factory one), which might have, a replaceable carbon contact button, possibly...???...and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
my 91 camaro has been running like crap lately. plugs and wires are fine so i pulled the distributor cap and the center contact is black and burned all the way down. The cap has been replaced before at some point so do you think it could just be a poor quality cap or is something else wrong like the coil?
+Alex's Bikes and Motors Greetings Alex's Bikes and Motors....Thanks for watching.........You almost nailed it...!!!...lol.................That Distributor Cap, with that Way too Small and Wimpy Carbon Button, is the worst that I've seen yet.........................That itty-bitty spring loaded Carbon Button/Resistor, Wears Down, at, way too fast of a rate, for my liking, as compared to the solidly mounted, much Larger Carbon Button/Resistor, that You can see, in the Tan/light brown Distributor Cap, in this UA-cam Video of mine........................I'm thinkin', that, when that little, way too small, in diameter, carbon button, Wears, to the point of not making "Contact", with the Rotor's, shall we call it Flat Metal Bar, then, that little Carbon Button will probably start, Electrically, High Voltage "Arcing", as in, a High Voltage Flash, "Between", the "not touching any more", little Carbon Button, to that Flat Metal Bar , down inside, that little Rotor, that spins with the Distributor's shaft..........That little Carbon Button, will probably Wear-away, at a faster Rate, as the Not Wanted, "Gap" between the Carbon Button, and the Rotor's, Flat Metal Bar Increases....................That's probably what You were seeing with Your Distributor Cap's Carbon Button...........Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...You're gonna need a New Distributor Cap and Rotor, at the very least.......................If and when-ever You Replace, Your Distributor Cap and Rotor, it would probably Help that little Carbon Button, to Last, quite a bit Longer, if You were to Sand and "Polish", to a some-what..."Mirror-Smooth-Finish"...that Flat Metal Bar, in the Rotor, where that little Carbon Button makes "Contact"............................Some of those Rotor's, Flat Metal Bars, that I have seen, look to have, a Roughly Machined Finish, and others, might not even be machined at all, quite possibly......................You really have to "Check" these little Carbon Button, "Style" of Distributor Caps, "Way more Often/Shorter Interval", then the Distributor Caps, that have Carbon Button/Resistors, that are much Larger in Diameter alright................Just always remember, Don't let that little, spring loaded Carbon Button/Resistor, get too Short, and, not be making Contact, with the Rotor's, Flat Metal Bar, or, it'll be...High Voltage Arcing..."Destruction"...as You have already seen for Yourself...!!!....Yikes...!!!...lol...???.........................Try to buy, a Good Quality, Distributor Cap, that has Brass Terminals on it, cuz, it's better then Aluminum, and only costs a bit more as well..........................If You can Buy the Distributor Cap and Rotor as a "Kit", that be, where they are Purchased together, and maybe in the very same Package, cuz, by doing so, You'll probably save a bit of Money, as compared to, Purchasing them as single units..........................So, perhaps, try Replacing Your Distributor Cap & Rotor, and see if Your Engine starts behaving itself, once again, and if not...???...just let me know, if You care to...............Good Luck, and............till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+Alex's Bikes and Motors Greetings Alex's Bikes and Motors...As the Fireworks Display is Lighting-Up the Evening Sky, I say..."Congratulations"...for getting Your Camaro running good again, as well as, not having to take out a Bank Loan, to do so...lol..............................So, now that You know, what to be looking out for, in respect to that little wimpy (distributor cap), Carbon/Resistor Button, kinda self-destructing, in such a short time, You're gonna have to..."Always Remember"...to Visually Check that little wimpy Carbon Button, quite often, as in, Months, to make sure, that, it Does Not Wear Down, to, shall we say Nothing, and............till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Ahmad Maher...........Thanks for watching..........Well, if that center pin (as you call it), melts, then, that sure doesn't sound very good to me, at all.........If you can tell me more about your car or truck, as in...Year...Make...Model...Engine size...and, if anything was "Modified" at all, as in, high performance parts, and/or, ignition timing settings, that "are not", stock/manufacturer/factory settings/adjustments..........So then, the more, that you can tell me about your problem, then, the more, that, I will be able to help you out...thanks...and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings siKC One The Great....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment too....Usually, a Distributor Cap and Rotor, for the most part, from my experience, hasn't caused the "Symptom" that You seem to have "Experienced"....But, the "Ignition Wires", as I have experienced in the past, "Did", make a Car, that I had at the time, "Do" some very "Strange" Things!!!....I will get to the "Story", in a few moments, but first, in order to Help You out, with Your Car's "Problem", I really need to "Know", what "Year", and "What" Car, that You are having the "Problem" with ??? "Diagnosing" a "Fuel Injected" Engine, is quite a bit "Different" from, "Diagnosing" an Engine with a "Carburetor" on it!!! Now then, back to that "Story" of mine... I had a 350 Cubic Inch Chevy V-8 (1971), with a "Points and Condenser" Distributor Ignition System. Sometimes, I would Start it up in the Morning, and it Ran Fine..."Until"... ..the Engine was almost Fully Warmed-Up..."Then"... ...the Engine, would, All of a Sudden, "Go Silent", and, shut itself OFF!!!... ...If I let it "Cool-Down" for a while, it would start back up, and would Run OK, for quite a long time. I still recall, Cruising along, on a Secondary Highway, Engine was running Ok, then, "Silence", for about 3 to 5 Seconds, then, it Started Running "Again", as though, it Never Stopped Running!...(closest encounter, that I ever had, with a..."GHOST!!!"...lol). So, I was Puzzled, with just "What", may be causing this "Weird", Automatic, Shutting-Off of that 350 Chevy Engine??? Then, I figured that, it's probably the "Ignition Coil" that's Causing the Running "Symptom" that I was Experiencing... But, before I "Condemn" that there Ignition Coil, maybe I should I start looking around at all of the Ignition Parts and Pieces, before, I run out, and Buy a New Ignition Coil... Everything seemed to look just fine..."Until"... ...I Removed the Coil to Distributor Cap's "High Tension" Lead (aka, ignition wire, that goes from the ignition coil's center tower, to the center of the distributor cap), and, I had a Look at Both ends of that Ignition Lead (Lead = Wire), and... ..."There's the Problem!!!"... ...It turned out to be, that, the "End" of that High Tension Lead, that Connects to the Ignition Coil's Tower, actually "ARCED" (Arced = High Voltage "Spark"), Between the Ignition Wires "Internal Conductor", and the "Metal Terminal", that, it's supposed to be, "Positively Connected To!!!" That High Voltage "ARC", over quite some time (I figure), actually Started "Eating" that Coil to Distributor Cap's Ignition Wire's "Internal Conductor", to the Point, that, there was just "Too Much Distance" Between the Ignition Wires "Internal Conductor", and the Ignition Wire's "Metal Connector", that it's supposed to be "Crimped Solid" To!!! Once, I Installed "NEW" Ignition Wires, the "GHOST", that was Haunting my 350 Chevy V-8, "Vanished", and my Engine... ...Never Saw that "Ghost" Again!!! So, there You have it, "Some" Problems, can be "Intermittent", and at times, "Hidden from View", as well. So, while, Some, "Parts and Pieces", might "Look" Alright from the "Outside", they "Sometimes", "Are Not" Alright on the "Inside!" So then, if You care to, please let me know, what "Year", and "What" Car, that You have there, so, I can help You out, with-out, having me, going on a... ..."Wild Goose Chase!!!"...lol...and... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow thanks for the help i have a 1992 caprice classic v8 5.0 l it is a tbi car. i just changed couple parts on it. I changed the icm, ignition coil,fuel pump,cooling sensor, and purge valve. but nothing still does the same. now im thinking of changing the pick up coil and the distributor cap??? i will check the ignition cables.
***** Greetings siKC One The Great....I have had very good luck, with a Fuel Injected vehicle, just a few years newer then Yours, and, although the actual Fuel Injection System, Is Not Exactly the same as Yours is, give the Following a Try, as it "Does-Not" Cost Any Money at all....Here is what I do, when Experiencing a "No Start" (of the Engine), and "Especially" when the Engine is..."Warm" or "Hot!"....First, make sure that Your Transmission is in Park, if it's an Automatic, and, Neutral, if it's a Standard Transmission, and, make sure Your Parking Brake is On, just in case... ...Then...Just Simply "Hold" the Gas Pedal Down, about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way down, and Hold the gas pedal there, while You Start the Engine, and, if the Engine Starts, get Your Foot OFF of the Gas Pedal....If the Engine starts Stalling on You, when You took Your Foot Off of the gas pedal, You can try to give it just enough gas pedal, to keep it from Stalling. If the Engine will Idle and Run OK, with Your foot "Off" of the gas pedal, and, if the engine sounds and runs Ok, try driving it a short distance, and see how Your Engine Runs/Acts. I have found, that the above Procedure, will..."Also"...Help a Fuel Injected Engine, that is having Trouble with a..."Cold Start"...Start Very Good as well...!!! (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, for me, it worked like a "Charm!")... ..and look Ma, I didn't even spend a "Cent" (actually in Canada, the Canadian Government "Discontinued" Making, and might be in the process, of Not Using, as Currency, the "Penny" or, its Other name, being "Cent", and more then one Cent, are called "Cents"). While, I can't Promise, that the above Procedure will work for Your Engine, as in, helping it to "Start", either "Hot" or "Cold"...for the Price, which is "Nothing", I think its worth a try, Dont-cha think? Try "My" so called Hot & Cold Helping-to-Start-the-Engne "Procedure", and, see if it works for You. Let me know, if You have any Success, or, otherwise. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Ram M457...……..Thanks for watching...……..Well, if that "prong", that you are talking about, happens to be, that, small, metal, flat bar, that is part of the "rotor", that spins around, inside of the distributor cap, then, here's, what will usually happen...……..I be thinkin', that, that "chip", that, you were also talking about, is actually, the result of, "high voltage", electrical "arcing" (root word = arc), and, can also be referred to, as, high voltage, electrical "erosion", so to speak...…….When-ever, high voltage, is able, to jump an air gap, that's between two metal points, then, a (high voltage), electrical "arc" (spark), will usually be seen...……..As the rotor's metal "tip", and the metal contacts, that are inside of the distributor cap, get eaten away, by all of that high voltage, "arcing/sparking", then, the "air gap", will also, start to get "Larger", and, the Larger, that, that "air gap" gets, then, the more difficult it gets, for the ignition coil, to create, the increased amount of high voltage, that is required, to jump (electrically arc), that, much "Larger" air gap...!!!...……..If the air gap, that's between, the rotor's "tip", and the metal terminals, that are inside of the distributor cap, as well as, the air gap, that's between, the spark plug's, two electrodes, starts to get too "Large", then yes, this alone, can be, the cause of a rough idle, as well as, ignition system, related "misfires", just about any time, that the engine is running...…….There are quite a few, different things, that can also cause, a rough idle too, depending on, what kind of vehicle, it happens to be, and also, what year/how old, the vehicle actually is...???...……..If you can tell me the following, then, I'll see what I can do, to help you out...……..What...year...make...model...engine size, and number of cylinders, that it has.....and.....till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...StuckInMyGarage........Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...on a good day, I probably do, have quite a bit of patience, alright........I'm not, and never was, a teacher, well, at least, in an official capacity, that is........Probably, what you are seeing, and hearing from me, is due to, the many "Mentors" (aka, people, that have helped me learn, so much, about, so many subjects/topics/life-lessons, especially so, during the time, when, I was just a young boy/early teen).........For example, starting, when I was only about 8 years old, a neighbor, who lived across the street, taught me, what seems like, an infinitesimal amount of information, and, life-skills, as in, playing chess, reading sheet music, playing musical instruments, as well as, hands on, tradesman-like skills, as well.........As I look back now, I recall, that, that very same neighbor, did such a good job, that, I actually made, a whole, croquet set, which includes, turning, the round croquet balls, and the mallet heads, on his wood lathe, when, now get this...when I was only, about, ten years old...!!! (funny thing is, I never gave it much thought/took it for granted, way-back-when)........Hmmm...just a though...it, just might be, that, my sub-conscious , is tellin' me, to..."pay-it-forward"...possibly...???...as in, so many people, have helped me, along, my life's path, so far, therefore, I think, that, it's only fair, to do like wise, and do the right thing, and help others out, along their way, as well, I be thinkin'..........So then, there's a small sample, for you to contemplate, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
When I mashed down on gas pedal 1997 Ford F-150 it was choking almost quitting let off gas an run better, then did again then quit now want crank! Rotor button distributer?
Greetings...Teresa walker...........Thanks for watching...........It appears, that, Your 1997 Ford F-150 (V-6 or V-8 Engine?)..."Does Not"...have a..."Distributor"...in it, at all, so, You won't have to worry about having one, as well as, having, the distributor "Cap" and "Rotor", that's, usually a part-of, that very same (non-existent) Distributor................Engine...Won't Crank over...???...Dead, or Low (charge), Battery maybe...???...might need to have the Battery Charged up, with a Battery Charger, perhaps, or, there might be a problem, with the (electrical) Ignition/Starting System, or maybe, the Fuel Pump, might not be working very good, and, if it's really, not so good, a Mechanic, might have to have a look at it, to see what's wrong, quite possibly.................Your 1997 F-150, will probably have, quite a few "Sensors" and "Actuators", that interact, with Your Pick-em-up-Truck's, "On-Board Computer" (being the Brain, so to speak), that, will be Controlling, the "Fuel System" (including, the Fuel Injectors, that spray pressurized gasoline, into the engine), as well as, the "Ignition System" (that be, the system, that's in-charge-of, making the spark plugs fire/go spark), and might even be, Controlling the Automatic Transmission as well, in some cases...............Did You happen to see, any "Dash-Board Warning Lights" at all...???...cuz, if so, then, that's probably tellin' You, that, something is up, alright.................Here are "2-Things", that can be done, to, shall we say, help find the Problem, or Problems, as the case may be, that are causing, Your Pick-em-up-Truck, to not be running, all that well................The first one, is to, have Your F-150's...On-Board Computer..."Scanned"...for any..."Trouble Codes"...that might be Stored in its Memory................There are sometimes, Automotive Part Stores, that have been known to, "Scan", a Vehicle's On-Board Computer for "FREE", with a Scan Tool (kinda, looks-like, a slightly larger, hand held calculator)...so then, try making a few Phone Calls, and ask the People that work there, if they will "Scan" Your Ford F-150's, On-Board Computer for "Free"...and if You're not having much luck with that, then, it shouldn't cost very much, to do so (I hope).................The Other one, is, to have the..."Fuel Pressure"...Checked, with a Fuel Pressure Testing "Gauge", in order to, make sure, that, the Fuel Pressure, is with-in, the "Specifications", for Your "Exact", Vehicle and Engine, cuz, if it isn't, then, Your F-150's Engine, probably, won't be Runnin' so well, or in some cases, the Engine, might not even Start.................The Very "High Fuel Pressure", in a Fuel Injected Vehicle, is Very Dangerous, and can Destroy a Person's Eyes, making it so, that, Eye Protection is Mandatory (aka, Must have, and be Wearing too), as well as, the Gasoline, that might, spray or leak, can, on a bad day, catch Fire, so, having a Fire Extinguisher near-by, is pretty much, a Must-have, as well...!!!.............So then, have those "2-Things", that I mentioned above, done/performed, that way, You'll have a much better idea, as to what kind of Medicine (more like, Parts and Money...lol), that, might be needed, so, when-ever You start..."Mashin'...Your Pick-em-up-Truck's, Gas Pedal again, "it" will "Go", just like it did, Before, it got too Slow for You...lol...Good Luck, and........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
15:05 NO. You mark the wires: Take a picture. Take wires off. Take Cap off. R&R Rotor. Install Cap. Install Wires just like you see in the picture you took.
+John Luna ....Greetings John Luna....Thanks for watching..................If You are Smelling Gasoline, be very Careful, cuz, the last thing, that Anyone wants, is a Vehicle Fire...!!!..................I have no idea, what-so-ever, as to, what Your Vehicle, actually happens to be, other than, it's a Truck, so, if You can let me know....Your Truck's...Year...Make...Model...Engine Size and Number of Cylinders, Inline, V-6, V-8, or...???... and if it's Factory Stock, or Modified in any way, then, I can be much more Specific, and a little less Generic, with the Help, that I'll be able to offer You.................So, for the time being, here's some Generic Information for You....................A Gasoline Engine, pretty much, needs to have the following...................Reasonably Good Compression, in all of its Cylinders................The correct, Gasoline, Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, for the Engine's Operating condition, at any given time...and...a good Strong Spark, between, all of the Spark Plug's Electrodes, at the Correct time.............Has Your Truck, had a "Tune-Up", and "Maintenance" done, in accordance with the Vehicle Manufacturer's...Recommended...Time or Mileage/Kilometer-age "Interval"...???...cuz, there are Parts that Wear-Out, and in some cases, there can be things, that need to be Checked, and/or Adjusted, as the case may be....................So then, if, and when-ever, You let me know, about Your "Exact" Truck, I will then, more than likely, have quite a bit to say, that, should at least, point You in the right direction, and be of some Help to You, and............till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+RockysRoadshow thank you so much! I had 2 and 7 switched on the distributor, I wasn't home so i told my dad to check it out and everything turned out great. Much appreciated.
+C McCav ....Greetings C McCav....You're Welcome, and..."Congratulations"...to, both, You and your Dad, for..."Gittin'-er-Fixed"...without even havin' to take the Wallet out of Ur Pocket...!!!...lol............................Now then, if You really want to Hear any "Pop-in" again, that You can Really Enjoy, may I suggest, makin' some "Pop-Corn"...!!!...lol...and........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings Jamiliah Collier....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/question as well....Although, the "Small Spin Piece" (aka, "Rotor", and I like what You called it, by the way), can sometimes look Burned, but, doesn't always mean, that it would not be able to function (work) at all....That "Burned" Look, that You were seeing, is more then likely the "Result", of all of the "High Voltage Electricity" that is "Jumping" between the "Tip of the Rotor" and each of the "Internal Contacts" inside the Distributor Cap, while the Engine is Running. While, on the other hand, if, Your "Rotor", and "Distributor Cap", are too far gone (aka, Worn Past its Useful Life, in terms of, Hours of engine operation, and also, that of "Mileage/Kilometer-age", that is being shown on Your Vehicles "Odometer", You know, those Numbers that are located somewhere near Your Speedometer, indicating how far the vehicle has traveled, distance-wise), then, there just might be Trouble brewing, and might be the, or, just One of the "Trouble-Makers", that are preventing Your Vehicle from Starting (and Running too). The words "Tune Up", are some very Important words, that a Vehicle Owner should always be thinking about, from time to time. The so called "Tune Up", Basically means, to "Replace" Vehicle Parts, when they get to the point of...Before they "Wear-Out", become "Unsafe", or, are "Not Able" to do their Job Properly. Before I go any further, You had mentioned that Your Car "Would Not" Start... ...When You attempt to Start Your Car's Engine, does the "Starter Motor"..."Crank the Engine Over", as in, the Engine Sayin'...(Whirrr...Whirrr...Whirrr...), or maybe just a "Click", and Silence perhaps? If the Engine "Cranks-Over", at a Fast Speed, then, there are "2" Basic Things that a Gasoline Engine Needs, to keep running... ...First, it needs Gasoline mixed with Air, in the correct proportions. (I know, this may seem silly, but, is there Gasoline in Your Car's Gas Tank?). ...Second, it needs a Good (high voltage) "Spark", from the Spark Plugs, at the Correct "Time" (Time = which will Vary, according to the Temperature, Speed, and Load, placed on the Engine, at any given time). I sure like to use a good ole sayin'...and that sayin' is... ..."Going on a Wild Goose Chase!"...lol. My best advice to You, is to take care of the "Maintenance" Related "Things", that are to be done, in accordance with, that of Your Car's "Owners Manual", that way, Your Car's Engine will be, so much more Reliable, and Fuel Efficient too. For most Cars and Trucks, with Gasoline Engines in them, some "Tune Up" Items are... Change "Spark Plugs", at the Recommended Replacement "Interval", and/or, before they Wear Out, and also, if they appear to be Covered in too many Deposits. Distributor "Cap and Rotor" and "Spark Plug Wires" must be in Good Shape. "Air Filter and Fuel Filter/Filters" have to be "Clean", as in, "Not" being dirty or plugged up. You Car's Battery and Charging System have to be in "Great" Shape as well. I sure hope, that You happen to have the "Owners Manual" for Your Car, that way, You will be able to Read, and see for Yourself, that, Your Car's Engine, needs to be "Serviced and Maintained" at the Required Time/Mileage/or Kilometer-age "Interval", with new Parts and Pieces, when needed. Enjoy Reading Your Car's "Owners Manual", and, Good Luck, with getting Your Car running again. If You like, let me know, How it's going...with Your Car, and maybe let me know, what Your Car, happens to be. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
bigcartoonyIIV Greetings bigcartoonyIIV....Thanks for watching, and now, lettuce see about givin' You an Answer (or two), to the Question, that You were askin' about, in Your comment................................Geeze, I might be Placin' myself in some Hot-Water, if I were to be, biased towards "One Specific Brand/Manufacturer or Other", as, most, if not all, of the Reputable, well known, shall we say "Big Name Brands", can usually be Depended-On, as opposed to, some, shall we say, Cheaply-Made-Parts, that sometimes, to me, and, as I like to say, every now and again, and that is, that, some of those, oh, shall I say..."Cheaply Made Automotive Parts..."Belong in a Dollar Store"...lol.....................As long as You try and stay with, like I was sayin', a "Reputable Brand-Name", You, and Your Silverado, should do just fine......................."OEM" (aka, Original Equipment Manufacturer), or, in Your case, "General Motors/Chevrolet" Parts & Pieces, use to be, the, oh, Go-To Place, but, now-ah-days, there are some really good "After-Market" Automotive Parts Manufacturers/Brands, that, as I see it, can equal, or, maybe even better, the "OEM" Part, or Parts in question, just sayin' now (tryin' to stay out of trouble...lol)................I purchase, all kinds of Different, Manufacturers/Brands, of Automotive Parts, depending on, just, which Vehicle it happens to be, along with, which part of that particular Vehicle's System, or Structure, that, it happens to be, being worked on as well.......................The last time, that I actually Replaced, an Ignition Coil, on a 4.3 Liter (262 Cubic Inch?), Chevy V-6 Engine, I Installed a "Standard Motor Products" Ignition Coil (and "They" also have, Regular and Premium Parts available, for some of the Parts, that they Manufacture, and, I recall, Blue Streak, as possibly being, the Premium one), as, I've had some good luck, using quite a few, of their Ignition System related Parts, as well................................Now then, as for me, as it concerns, an Engine's Ignition System, I try to get, if possible, just about any, Ignition Component/Part, having "Brass Terminals", where-ever an Electrical Connection has to be made, as opposed to the Aluminum ones, as, the "Brass" type, as I see it, makes for better Electrical Conductivity, as well as, less of a Corrosion potential as well, but hey, that's just me (You can take it as a grain of salt, if You like...lol).......................Here's a heads-up for Ya.....................Always, and I say ALWAYS..."Make Sure"...that, what-ever Part/Component, that, might, or is, getting Replaced, on any Vehicle, is, to, if possible, "Check", to actually see, if, the Replacement Part..."Exactly Matches", not only, in the physical/size sense, but more-so, the "Electrical Specifications", as in something like "Ohms Readings/Specifications", on an Ignition Coil, as an example..........................Sometimes, an Error can be made, when "Cross-Referencing" an Automotive Part, oh, something like, let's say, an Aftermarket/Brand/Manufacturer's Part, is being Installed, in place of an OEM Part, and, the Parts, Guy or Gal, (hopefully not), messes up, or, maybe, just maybe, the Parts Book/Computer, has an error in its Information (just remember now, a Computer, is Only as Smart, as the Human that Programmed it...!!!...lol), and no, I'm not just makin' this stuff up, and, I'll now, tell You why..............I had an Non-OEM, set of Spark Plugs, that seemed to do, just fine, in a 4.3 Liter, V-6 Engine, and, I did some "Cross-Reference Checking", quite some time later, and..............."Hole-ee-Gwalk-ah-Moe-lee"...those very good, Replacement/Major Brand/Champion, Spark Plugs, that were given to me, by the Parts-Person, were..."2-Heat-Ranges-Higher", then the Original, OEM, Factory-Installed, AC-Delco Spark Plugs...!!!...Yikes...!!! (but, I still like to throw in a lol, just the same!)............That's, pretty much, why, when it comes to something like, replacing Spark Plugs, that, I try to Install, the Originally Supplied, OEM/Factory Installed ones, in order to Avoid, something like that "Wrong"...Spark Plug "Heat-Range", that I was just tellin' You about, and, just like they say..."Buyer...Be-Ware"...!!!...lol...................So then, try and stick with, a "Reputable/Major Brand/Manufacturer's" Ignition Coil, and, "Yes-Sir-ee-Bob", for just a slight amount of Money more, You can, have "One"...with..."Brass Terminals"...on "it"..................Be sure, that, all of the Wiring Connection Points/Terminals, are all "Shine-ee & Clean", to give Your Engine's "Ignition System", the best chance, at be-in, a..."Sparkin' Sensation"...!!!.............Till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
OooooK. Thanks for information. To make sure I understand. Get a brand with (OEM) and brass. in 2010 I installed some of thos fusion 4 prong spark plugs. Lately my truck has been dragging start like the battery is dead. I just bought that battery so I assumed it was a spark issue. Last week i took D-cap off, and When I took the cap off I seen some green corrosion on the tip of the rotor, and some of the prongs in the cap look thinner than others. I have had this 2001 since 2006, and I never changed any of that stuff. Do you have any other suggestions that I could change on that truck, to get it updated?
bigcartoonyIIV Greetings bigcartoonyIIV....Well, for starters, seeing as how, it's, kinda looking like, You might want to be, Servicing/Maintaining Your very Own..."Pick-Em-Up-Truck" (Silverado, that is), I would strongly suggest, that, You go out and purchase a Manual/Book, for Your "Exact Vehicle", unless, You already have one, that is.............................I have, oh, One might say..."A Small Library"...of Automotive Books, for various Vehicles, and, the Publisher of most of those Books, that I just mentioned, happens to be..."Haynes"............................There sure are a number of Different Publishers out there, and, are an excellent resource as well.......................What I found, is, the "Haynes" Automotive Books, are very well written, and written in such a way, that, just about any Person, that is new to, or, just starting out, tryin' to learn about, just about any Vehicle, that "They" happen to make a Book for, will, as I see, and have experienced for myself, was, in almost no time at all, a rather, shall we say..."Accelerated Learning Curve"...will most likely be established, right from the get-go (aka, pretty much meaning, right from the time, that, a Person gets interested in, and starts reading the Automotive Book in question...!!!)...................................Also, if You happen to have (in Your Custody/Possession...lol), the.."Factory Owners Manual" (sometimes, found "Hide-ing-in-the-Glove-box/compartment, maybe?), that Originally came with Your Vehicle, when "it" was Brand New, then, there is usually, quite a bit, of very Useful Information, as in, proper Vehicle Operation & Maintenance, and maybe even some Factory Part Numbers, for the various Filters and such...!!!................................Be very "Careful", when-ever working on the following...!!!..............When a Vehicles Battery (the common Lead/Acid type), is being "Charged-Up", when-ever the Engine is Running, there is "Explosive Gas"..."Venting", from the Top of the Battery"...!!!...so..."No Smoking or Sparks of Any Kind"...!!!...and...Your..."Fuel Injection System"...all the way, from Your Vehicle's (in the Gas Tank), Fuel Pump, through, all of the Fuel Lines/Tubing/Pipes, and, right on through, to Your 6-Fuel Injectors, are under..."High Fuel/Gasoline Pressure"...in, around the..."60 PSI/Pounds per Square Inch"...Range...give or take a few PSI...!!!...and, this..."High Fuel Pressure"...is "Present/There", even when the Engine Is Not Running, for many Days, and even More...!!!...so, be "Very Careful", and, read-up, on, how to Safely "Bleed-Off" the "High Fuel Pressure"..."BEFORE"...You start Working on the "Fuel Injection System & all related Parts...!!!...and..."Wear Safety Glasses"...and...have a "Fire Extinguisher", just in case (and, I hope, "it" Doesn't have to be Used!)........................................................I will now...wind-er-up...thus-lee............................For any Engine, in a Vehicle, I try to Use, the "Original/Factory Installed Spark Plugs", and in the case of a Chevy/GMC Engine, I try to get the "Exact, AC-Delco Spark Plugs", that were Originally Installed by the Factory (if I'm able to "Get Them", that is?), and, especially, if the Engine remains Stock/No Modifications, and, the Vehicle, is just being used as a Daily Driver/Grocery Getter..................................................Oh, and, if the Spark Plug's..."Electrodes"...are..."Gap-able"...make sure, that, the Spark Plug.."Gap" (Between the 2 Electrodes), is..."Set-to"...the..."Specified Gap"...for Your..."Exact Engine"...!!!................................Some years ago, I was askin' a Parts Person, about Installing, some Platinum Spark Plugs, in an Older Chevy 350 Cubic Inch V-8 that I had, and He "Warned" me, not to do so...Why You ask...???...well, He then went on to say, that, a few Guys, that Installed those Platinum Spark Plugs in Their V-8 Engines, were having some Engine Damage, after Installing those Platinum Spark Plugs, so, I heeded His Warning, and, got some "Original, Factory Installed, Correct Part designated, AC-Delco Spark Plugs, and, maybe, it was that "Warning", that I got, way back then, that, might very well be, the Reason, that I try to get a hold of, and Install, the "Factory Original Ones", and look Ma..."No Engine Damage" at all...lol........................................Those Brass Terminals, that I mentioned, in the last comment/reply to You, are "What I really like to See", on something like, the, "Distributor Cap's Terminals" (on the Outside and Inside, of the Distributor Cap)...&...on the "Rotor Tip" as well, seeing as how, those poor ole, Distributor Cap "Terminals (inside) & the Rotor's Tip" as well, have to try, and "Stand Up To", all of that, Very "High Secondary Voltage", that Arcs/Flashes"..."Between"...the..."Rotors Tip"...and..."All 6, Internal, Distributor Terminals"..."Yikes"...!!!...............Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, when in doubt, just stay with the "Factory/Original Parts", well, unless You happen to know for sure, that, any of the "After-Market Parts", either..."Meet, or Exceed"...the "Performance Level & Longevity", as Compared to the good ole "Originals", just sayin' now (as there are lots, did I say LOTS, of very Impressive, Aftermarket Parts Manufacturers/Suppliers World-Wide...!!!)................................As for, was it Your Engine's "Cranking Speed Too Slow"...???.........Well, if it is, there are a number of "Things", that can cause such a thing......................Might be a Wiring Connection?...Starter Switch?...Starter Motor getting tired?...Battery, Not being Charged Enough, by the (Electrical) Charging system?...and...might even be a "Drain on the Battery", when the Engine "Is-Not Running", and a good Visual example, would be, something like, the Vehicle's Interior "Dome Light", being left on, over-night, and, the resulting...Drained Down Battery, and, did You perhaps, recently, add a Sound System, or, Other "Electrical", Add-On Device, to Your Pick-Em-Up-Truck, by chance...??? (and, those are just a few Things, at that...!!!...oh my)............................ Oh yeah, next time, You happen to have Your Distributor Cap, off of the Distributor Body/Housing, have a "Close Look", at the "Carbon Button", that's located on the "Inside", of Your Distributor Cap, in the Center of it, and, "See", if it's "Holding Up" ok...as...up until 1995, there-abouts, that there "Carbon Button" (back then), "Wore Out Way Too Fast", and, the Design/Size of "it", was (use your own bad word here), yes, "it" really was...!!!...so, keep a real close eye, on the shall we say..."Wear Rate"...of that Carbon Button...cuz..."if"..."it"..gets "Too Short"...the Engine will Run like (please, feel free, to use Your own cuss-word here...!!!)...lol.....So then...get hold of one of those "Automotive Books", and, "Start Reading", and, before You know it, You'll be a Pro, in almost no time at all...maybe?...but hey, You'll never know, if You don't try...right...???...................Well, that's about it for now.............If You happen to have any further questions or concerns at all, just give me a shout, in the form of, a comment/question or two, and, I'll try-n-help You out, if possible............Till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Sergio Bullitt.............Thanks for watching.............If the Oil that You saw, was "inside" the distributor "Cap", then, that's not so good at all, and, I'm thinkin', that, that Oil, is probably rising up, through, the inside of the distributor's Body, where the (distributor) Shaft, is spinning inside of it...............Might be a Bad/Faulty "Seal", in the distributor's Body, that's leaking too much, or, as a wild guess, maybe, Your PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve, or Hose/System, is Plugged-Up, and as a result of that, there might be too much Pressure, that's building-up, "inside", of the engine's Crankcase/Oil Pan area, when-ever the engine is running................Do all of the Terminals, "inside" of the distributor Cap, as well as, the (metal) "Tip", of the (spinning) Rotor, look to be, in Good Shape...???...or, are they Worn/Eroded (by high voltage electricity), quite badly...???..................The "inside" of a distributor "Cap", should be "Clean and Dry", so, the High Voltage, that's coming from the ignition coil, will make its way (jumping), from the (spinning) Rotor's "Tip", to the "Correct" Terminal, that's inside of the distributor Cap..............Your, cranking, but "No Start" engine, might be Ignition System related, or, maybe, Fuel System related, and on a bad day, maybe both at the very same time, and I hope not..............If You can let me know, what Your Vehicle's..."Year...Make...and...Model"...is, as well as, the..."Engine Size, and Number of Cylinders"...then, I will probably be able to help You out, much more, once I actually know, what I really need to know, otherwise, I'll just be going on, another one of my..."Wild Goose Chases"...lol.......and till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow my car is a 93 toyota corrolla dx 1.6 is it true that the distributor does not break down when u driving the car? i sprayed starting fluid in one of the holes on the filter box but it didnt start the. n i was driving my car on the highway when it die i already replace the spark plugs n wires and distributor cap n igniter and still nothing i unscrewed the bolt that is on the fuel coils to c if i have gas running n i soon i loose the bolt the gas was spraying so i know the fuel pump works next i removed 1 spark plug to c the spark n nothing no spark. so im guessing the distributor or timing belt what u do think
Greetings...Sergio Bullitt.............When You tested, the Removed spark plug, for "Spark", did You have the Screw-Threaded end of the spark plug, touching a Metal part, on the Engine...???...cuz, if not, then, probably, No Spark will be seen...............For a Fuel Injected Engine, like Yours appears to be, then, just because You saw some Gasoline Spraying, doesn't really tell us, that, the "Fuel Pressure" is High enough, and, is with-in, Toyota's "Specifications", for Your "Exact" engine..........About the only way, to tell, if the Fuel Pressure is With-in Specifications, is to do a Fuel Pressure Test, with a Fuel Pressure testing "Gauge", and do the Test, the Correct way, that Toyota Recommends, on how to do it (with engine not running, and probably, with the engine running as well, maybe).....Fuel Pressure, can get too Low, if, something as simple as, a Fuel "Filter", becomes too "Plugged-Up", or, the Fuel Pump (that's probably hiding, inside of the gas tank), is getting kinda Weak, and is not able, to provide that rather High Fuel Pressure consistently............Some Fuel Pressures, at the Fuel Pump, might be as high as, about 100 PSI/Pounds per Square Inch...!!!...and, there's probably a Fuel Pressure "Regulator", somewhere in Your Toyota, that will reduce that Fuel Pressure, to, maybe, about 43 PSI maybe...???..........That Fuel Pressure is Dangerous...!!!...and can Destroy a Person's Eyes...!!!...so be sure to be Wearing Safety Glasses/Goggles, and have a Fire Extinguisher with-in Reach...............It would be a good idea, to have Your Vehicle's On-Board Computer "Checked", for any Trouble Codes, that might be Stored in its Memory, cuz, if there is, then, that will help out, quite a bit..............If Your Engine, has a Rubber-like Timing Belt on it, then, there is usually a "Recommended", Mileage or Kilometer-age "Replacement" interval, for Your Exact Engine, so, see if You can find that out, and if its Time, to Replace it, then do so, cuz, sometimes if the Timing Belt Breaks, and depending on the design of the Engine, then, some of those Engine Designs, can cause Pistons, to Smash-into the Valves, and then, that particular design of Engine, will get Destroyed...!!!...and probably can't be fixed at all, quite possibly...............Most Vehicle Ignition Systems, involve lots of things, like, the Battery (fully charged up?), the Ignition Switch (Key type?), all of the Wiring and Connection Points, the Module, the Ignition Coil, etc..............You might be able to get Your "Ignition Control Module" (inside of Your distributor?), Tested for "FREE", at some of the Automotive Parts Stores, so maybe, make a few Phone Calls, and ask the People that work there, if they will, for FREE, Test Your Ignition Control Module, and maybe, they might also Test Your "Ignition Coil", for Free as well, perhaps................Who knows, They might, even be able to, Test Your Whole Distributor maybe...???...just ask Them..............If You are really getting "No Spark" at all, then, it might be something, as simple as, a Bad wiring Connection, or a Blown Fuse perhaps, so, Check all of Your Toyota's "Fuses", to make sure, that they are not causing, Your No Spark problem...............Have a look at some of the Videos, that I have on my UA-cam Channel...RockysRoadshow...and, there should be a few of them, such as, how to test an Ignition Coil (probably not the same as Yours is, but, it should be tested, in about the same way).................So then, Check all wiring Connections and Fuses, and maybe, have Your Toyota's Fuel Pressure Tested as well, just to make sure, once You know, that, You are actually getting a Good Strong Spark, at the spark plugs, once again...............Good Luck, and........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
It's so funny that the spark plug wires are known to be hard to put in the right order and still manufacturers refuses to mark them. It would be pretty easy to just stamp a number on the wire and the corresponding terminal.
Greetings...He Ka..................Thanks for watching..............."News Flash"...!!!...lol...and now, here's that News.................I think, that I recall seeing a "Set" of spark plug "Wires", having the "Numbers" (1...2...3...4...5...and...6) "Printed" on, a "Factory" installed, Set of spark Plug "Wires" (when the vehicle was New), that were on a (General Motors) Mid 1990's, "Chevy" (aka, Chevrolet) Astro Mini-Van, that had a 4.3 Liter (262 cubic inch), V-6 Engine in it...................Even though the spark plug "Wires" were "Numbered", that, in itself, will only help out, just a little bit...say what...???...................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...for starters, the Number "1" Cylinder's, spark plug "Wire", has to be Connected to the Distributor Cap's Number "1"..."Terminal"...and also, the "Tip" of the Rotor, should be Pointing to/Lining up, with that Number "1" Terminal on the distributor Cap, as well, when the Crankshaft's, Number 1-Cylinder's Piston, is at TDC/Top Dead Center, and the "Groove/Marking", on the Harmonic Balancer (or call it Damper if You like), is lining up with the "0/Zero" marking, on the, shall we say, Degree (markings) Tab, or whatever it is, that indicates 0/Zero Degrees, on the Engine Block, when the Engine's Number "1" Cylinder's...Piston, is at TDC/Top Dead Center, while also, being, just at the start of the Power Stroke (intake and exhaust Valves Closed...hopefully)...................Then, there's the "Firing Order" of that "Exact" Engine, as well as, the "Direction", that the "Rotor" (that's hiding inside the distributor Cap...lol) Spins/Turns (Clockwise, or Counter-Clockwise...???), has to be taken into consideration as well....................Then, a Person has to know, the "Cylinder Numbering" for that "Exact" Engine................Time to Relax now...lol...cuz, if a Person, only wanted to Replace a Set of Old spark Plug "Wires", with a Set of New ones, on an Engine, that was running reasonably well, then, all it takes, is, to "Change"..."ONLY"..."1" spark plug "Wire" at a time, that way, the "High Voltage", will be going to the "Correct" Spark Plug, and hopefully, at the Right Time (pretty much meaning, that, the Ignition Timing was previously, Set Properly, to begin with)...................Here's what I've been doing, oh, for a few years now...................Before I remove any spark plug Wire, from a Spark Plug, or, the Distributor Cap's Terminals, I grab a roll of Masking Tape (about 3/4 Inches wide), and rip off a piece, oh, about 2 and 1/2 inches Long, and wrap each piece of Masking Tape, around each of the spark plug Wires, and leave, what appears to be, a "Flag" (when the 2 Sticky sides of the masking tape get Stuck together), and place these "Flags", on the spark plug Wires, reasonably Close, to the Distributor Cap.....then, I use a Felt Pen/Marker/Sharpie, to Write the Engine's Cylinder Number, on each of the masking tape "Flags".................Also, the Number "1" (cylinder), can be printed, with a Felt Pen, nice-n-Close, to the Number "1"..."Terminal", on the distributor Cap, and, maybe also, Mark an Arrow, to show the Direction, that the Rotor Spins, on Top of the Distributor Cap, to make things even easier (the Color of the Felt Pen, has to be in Contrast to/be Opposite of, the Color of the Distributor Cap, or, You'll probably have quite the problem seeing it...Yikes...!!!...lol...and also, some Folks are sayin', that, some of the Felt Pens out there, might Conduct High Voltage Electricity...maybe...???...might not be so good, just so You are aware).........................I sure do find, that, those Masking Tape, Numbered "Flags", that I've been using, really Do, Help out lots, did I say LOTS...lol (indeed, they sure do)..................So then, if You care to, just make some of those Cylinder Numbered...Masking Tape..."Flags"...for Your Engine's spark plug Wires...Enjoy...and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
YOU DONT NEED MARKS. See your firing order, 1342, so you connect r with this order. The number one can be anywhere you just have to fallow the order. otherwise engine will not start.
Greetings...Maxengines Tech..........Thanks for watching...........Well...He Ka...(the Person, that started this Post), Did Not mention, just what Engine, that, He or She had, and, it looks like, You were assuming, that, "it" was a "4-Cylinder" Engine...??? (interesting that).............Also, if a Person, just installed, all of the spark plug "Wires", as You were saying, on a 4-Cylinder Engine, in that, 1342 Firing Order, providing that, it is "Correct", for the "Exact" Engine in question, then, what about having, the Number "1" Cylinder's Piston, being on its "Power Stroke" (firing stroke), while being at, TDC/Top Dead Center, and, is also, being indicated, on the Harmonic Balancer's, TDC/Top Dead Center's, Line/Marking, lining up with, the timing Tab, or what-ever it just might be, as well...???...and also, which "Terminal" that's on the inside of the Distributor Cap, is that "Rotor", actually "Lining Up with"...???...as well as, what "Direction", is that "Rotor" Turning/Spinning, is it "Clock-wise"...or..."Anti-Clock-wise" (aka, counter-clock-wise)...???...and, if a Person, gets any "1" of those things above, Wrong, then, I be thinkin', that, that poor ole Engine, would probably be doing, some (ignition related) "Firing", of the Spark Plugs, at the "Wrong Time", and probably be Hearing..."Pop"..."Bang"..."Cough"...kinda Sounds, and an Engine, that was surely, "Not Running Properly", at all...!!!..............In order to Avoid, any of those (above) Problems, I usually tell People, to just "Change"..."One Spark Plug, and/or, One spark plug Wire", at a time, that way, there's almost no way, to Mess-it-up, as I see it, that is...........Here's a Challenge for You..........Let's have a Race, shall we...........Let's assume, that, there is a V-8 Engine, that had, all of the spark plug "Wires", Removed from, the distributor Cap's Terminals, on that particular Engine, and, both You and I, have to, install a Set of New spark plug "Wires", on that Engine (not including, the ignition coil, to the distributor Cap, high tension Lead/Wire, if applicable, cuz, that's just too easy, to install, and get wrong).............Now then, all You have, is an Octopus (8 spark plug "Wires"...lol), and, I have, all of my, 8 spark plug "Wires", with the Cylinder Numbers on each of them, as well as, the distributor Cap Terminals (on top), have the cylinder Numbers, near each of those Terminals, as well as, the Cylinder Numbers, showing near, where each spark plug is located..............Oh, and also, the Engine, has the Number "1" Cylinder's Piston, Set at, TDC/Top Dead Center, on its, Power/Firing Stroke, just so You know (to make things easier, for the both of us, hopefully)...............Now, the Starting Gun goes "Bang"...!!!...and the Race begins..............Well, it only took me a few Minutes, and I was all done, and, Each and Every spark plug "Wire", was "Exactly" where, it should be installed, and, I Start the Engine, and, "It", is Running really good-n-smooth...and...I look over, to see what You are doing, and I see, that, You are still, trying to figure out, which way/direction...???...that the "Rotor" (that's inside of the distributor cap), should be spinning/turning...???...and, You still don't have any spark plug "Wires" on the Engine yet...!!!...lol...........Come to think of it, there was a Lady, that Posted, under one of my UA-cam videos, a while ago, that She, shall we say, Painted-on, Different "Colors", of "Nail Polish", to ensure that, each of the spark plug "Wires", got Connected onto, the "Correct", distributor cap Terminals, and probably, the Correct spark plugs as well, maybe, as She didn't go into too much detail, as I recall, and yes, that is One Smart Lady, alright............So, please, maybe take a closer look, at some of the different Ignition Systems, in a little more detail, kinda like, I have done over the years, somewhat, that way, You probably, won't, just be saying, to "Only Use the Firing Order", all by itself anymore, I hope, and..........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I dont answer TO COPY PASTE text. But surely you dont need to race, just understand what fire ordering really is.Theory is a beginning, but not enought, neither to a real start.-...
A continuity test on a cap or rotor is not practical. A defect such as a crack or carbon tracking makes an electrical path for extremely high voltage, but not for the low voltage powering testers and ohm meters. You would still get an infinite reading, no light or beep depending on the type of tester you're using.
journeyquest1 Greetings journeyquest1....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/opinion as well.........................................It appears that, what..."Dallas Cheked" (as per comment)...is quite accurate, and, is the "Method" that I have used, for many, many years now..........................................................But, like just about anything that I work on, I'm finding, that there is usually, an..."Exception for Every Rule"....and I try to make a point of..."Never Ruling Anything Out"...as, at times, I do Find, some pretty Strange Things, when I least expect "It"...................................................So then, here's "One" for Ya...............A number of years ago, a Friend of mine phoned me up, and was telling me, about a "Dead Electrical Circuit", in his Car (an older Subaru, if I recall correctly), so, I told him to drive it over, and that I'd have a look at it..................................................Let's see now (please hold...as my memory archives are processing at the moment)...........ah yes, as I recall, He was right about that "Dead Electrical Circuit" alright, so, as I remember, the "Fuse Block" (Panel?), was located in the engine compartment, and I had a Look-See at the..."Buss-Type"...of..."Fuses" (the old "Buss" type of automotive Fuse, was the kind, that was cylindrically shaped, about 1/4 Inch in Diameter, made out of Glass, and had a Metal Cap on each end, and the Filament-Like Fuse Element, was easily seen through the Glass tube, and the lengths can vary, as well as the Amperage-rating, and this one, was about "1" Inch long, give or take a bit).......................................................So, as I'm looking at that "Row" of Buss Fuses, all of their, shall we say "Filaments", looked to be "Intact" (when one of these type of Fuses..."Blows"...its "Filament", well, kinda looks like it "Self Destructs", and usually shows its "Filament"..."Broken/Melted"...in its middle section, which in turn, makes for "No-Connection!")...............................................Oh, what to do...............I know, I'll get out my Volt-Meter, and see if one end of that there Buss Fuse (while still in the Fuse Block), is getting battery voltage at all (not sure if the ignition key had to be on, but if need be, "It" was...lol)...............................................Well.........."One End"...of that "Buss-type-Fuse"..."Was Getting"...that nominal 12 Volts alright...but...the..."Other End of that Fuse"...was showing..."Zero Volts"...although the "Fuse's Filament", looked (Visually), to be..."100% Good"...!!!....................................................So............I remove that there..."Buss Fuse"...crank my Multi-meter to the "Ohm's Position", connect the Multi-meter's test leads to each end of the Fuse, and look Ma..."Zero Ohms"...!!!..............."Wowsers"...kinda looks like, that there..."Buss Fuse"..."Blew", just inside the "Metal Cap" (one on each end, remember?), where "It"..."Could Not Be Seen" (Visually, that is)...!!!.................................Hey, this scenario, would have been a great place, for You to Use Your "Continuity Tester" (if it happened to be Self Powered, when testing the Fuse, all by its lonesome)........................................................You could use an "Ohm Meter", to Test the "Resistance" of the "Carbon Button", and each of the Distributor Caps "Terminals", if You cared to do so, along with the Rotor as well, maybe......................................................If, for instance, we are now talking about, something like a "General Motors"...H.E.I. (High Energy Ignition) Distributor "Cap", that has the "Ignition Coil"..."Mounted In/On the Top of It"...then, there is usually a..."Carbon Button"...that by all means...should have..."Its Resistance"..."Checked"...just to make sure (if You do so, please Check the Specifications, for that particular Distributor Cap's, Carbon Button's, Ohm's Specification), and, the resulting "Continuity", or lack there-of, should show up...................................................In closing, "Lots of Moisture" (aka, might be Condensation), Inside a "Brand New" Distributor Cap, will usually, at certain times, render "It", to the point of being "Absolutely Useless", which will usually result in a "No Start" (of the engine), probably, due to all of that there..."Spark-Scattering"...goin' on, inside the Distributor Cap..............................................I'm thinkin', that, a Lighter Colored Distributor Cap & Rotor, would make things like "Cracks"...and..."Carbon Tracking"...much easier to see, as opposed to a Dark Colored example there-of, just sayin'..............................................I'll end with, what I think, may just be, one of those ole sayings, and that saying is....................."There's a Time and Place for Everything"........................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Dallas Cheked Greetings Dallas Cheked....Thanks for watching, and for Your "Automotive Wisdom" as well...........................................Sure sounds to me, that, just like I did in the past, was that You probably had Your fair share of..."Scrape-ing"...some of that..."Crusty-Like-Corrosion"...from the Distributor Cap's..."Internal-Aluminum-Terminals"....with something along the lines of a..."Plain-Tipped-Screwdriver"...just because...!!!...lol...................................."Those were the days my Friend"................But now...We have Distributor Cap..."Terminals"...and..."Rotor Blades"...made out of..."Brass"...which it appears, that, those little Critters, known as ..."Electrons"...have become quite fond of, and, at not all that much, of an increased cost, over that..."Crusty-Dusty-Aluminum-Stuff"...lol................................................Hmmmmmmm...do they, or did they, call Aluminum............."Aluminium"...in the U.K. (United Kingdom) perhaps...???...well, for some reason or other, that's what I may have heard in the past, just sayin'................................................Oh, and, just like Spark Plug..."Gaps"...there is also the..."Gap" (aka, Distance), between the..."Tip of the Rotor"...and..."Each of the Distributor Cap's Internal/Perimeter Terminals"..that for the most part, usually don't get much Attention.................but, then again, we can, and do see, the..."Wear Factor"...that is..."Created"...by, all of that..."High Voltage Arcing"...Goin' -On..."Between"...the previously mentioned, shall we call them..."Arcing Paths"...perhaps?..................................................I'll end with, a rather good one, and that good one is..........."Out of Sight...Out of Mind"...!!!...lol.............................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video as well as part one. I found it very helpful. I replaced my cap and rotor and it's running great now.
You are an excellent and patient teacher. My advice is to mark the cap, wires and firing order with a paint marker before disassembling all those parts, then no confusion on re assembly. I now understand the importance of correct air gap inside dist cap thanks to your tutorial. Keep those videos coming, I'll be in the classroom; and all the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
Greetings...stewart bruce........Thanks for watching........Also, thanks kindly, for your nice comment, my friend........Me, a teacher...???...nah, not really, but perhaps, I really should be grateful for, all of the great mentors, that I had, while I was growing up, and besides, all of what, you see and hear me doing here, is basically, just some of the hobbies, that I became interested in, and studied somewhat........If you haven't already heard of this, shall we say, additional, paint marking (so called...lol) "secret", then, here Ya go........Before removing the distributor from the engine, just simply, paint a line, on the distributor's body, where it meets up with the engine, and continue a straight line, right onto the engine, and, when it comes time, to re-install, that very same distributor, just match up that painted line again, bolt it down, and, the initial/base ignition timing, will be super close, to where it was, before the distributor was removed, cool huh, oh, and, don't forget to take notice, in which direction, that, the rotor was pointing to, before removal (on a small block Chevy V-8, I like to have, the number one piston/cylinder, at TDC/Top Dead Center, on the compression/firing stroke...&...the line on harmonic balancer, in line with zero degrees, on the timing tab, and also, having the tip of the rotor, pointing at, the number one cylinder (that be, the cylinder, that's on the left/front side of the engine, as you're sitting in the driver's seat).........So then, even if, I don't have a UA-cam video, of something you want to know about, just simply, post a (comment) "question", under any of my UA-cam videos, and, if I'm able to help you out, then, I will do so.........Thanks again, and.......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow Thank you Rocky with the information you just provided. I have a problem with my 88 240 volvo that has a racing idle. If your familiar with solving that problem, I will describe the steps I took including checking for air leak with starting fluid and propane. If you have the time and guidance that would be appreciated.
You can clean many of the contact points - can even use sand paper to remove corrosion - in a pinch. Thanks to all of the men who taught me things about cars. You've saved me thousands of dollars and much heart ache!
I wish parts manufacturers would make parts grey or another color so that I can write on it with magic marker. I had to use red nail polish to mark the wire order....took too long. Some guys write the date the new part was put on and i think that is extremely nifty. If the part is black, you can't see marker - though paint pens are sold in craft supplies stores/areas.
Great demostration video 👍😁
Greetings...Fabian Rodriguez...…….Thanks for the nice comment, and, thanks for watching too...…...I will leave a reply to your question, that's on your other comment posting...
Thank you for the detailed explanation.
Greetings Krystian Leesowy....You are welcome my Friend, and, Thank-You, for pointing out the lack of Information that I provided on the 1st Part (video) of, Inspecting the Cap & Rotor, as it had me make a 2nd Video to address the 1st Videos lack of Information there-of....Just try to remember the old saying, "The Chain is only as Strong as the Weakest Link", as it applies to your Ignition System....It only takes "1" Bad Wiring Connection to Mess Things Up!....Take care, and have a good one
Thank you for this!
Greetings Adam Klingenberger....You are welcome, and, I'm glad to be of help, to you, and others....Take care
Thanks for the video😊
Greetings...Sam Logosz………….You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...……..Just try to keep in mind, that, there are quite a few, automotive parts and pieces, that are hidden from view, that will start to get worn, or maybe, worn out, as the engine accumulates, more and more, hours of operation on it, and...…..till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks for the video. It helped me to learn about ignition system. In the video you showed two types of distributor caps, the DIN and SAE types. What I was looking for was a comparison of both types regarding electrical conduction or resistance and reliability. One thing can be noted that vehicles of 1990s started using SAE type caps before going to distributorless systems.What if the older DIN type cap is replaced with the new SAE type?
Syed Imran Shah Greetings Syed Imran Shah....Thanks for watching this "Distributor and Rotor Condition", UA-cam Video of mine, and for Your very Interesting, shall we say...Comparison, as well as, maybe Switching, as You indicated, the Distributor Cap/s, from One Style, or Generation (aka, Year, or Time period, of Distributor Design/Development) between, "2" or More", of the Many Types of Distributor Designs, that Exist, to this very Day....................................................The following, are only my Observations, Opinion, and, all of what, I studied, and to some extent, learned, over, countless hours, of reading-about, working on/tinkering with, and, last but not least..."Automotives"...(amongst many other things as well), just happen to be, a "Hobby" of mine, and, I'm not a certified Mechanic, nor, have I ever worked in, an "Automotive Repair Establishment" at all............................................................That "Light Tan" colored Distributor Cap, (as seen in this video), was off of a "Mid 1970's Dodge, small block V-8 Distributor, that housed a Reluctor style of Triggering system, who's Signal, was Sent, to the "Transistorized" Ignition Box, mounted on the Firewall of the Vehicle, that basically, took the place of the, good ole..."Points and Condenser"...Style of Distributor/Ignition System......................................................Both, this Newer Type of Transistorized System (at that time), as well as, the Points and Condenser Style of Distributor, were Only "Controlling" an Ignition Coil, that was only Required to, Output a Much "Lower"..."High Secondary Voltage" (that made its way to the spark plugs, via, the, spark plug leads/wires), as "Compared To", that of, something like, the "HEI" (High Energy Ignition) System, that the General Motors Company, began to Install, on their Vehicle's, oh, somewhere around 1975, and onward, until, Distributors, as such, were, somewhat abandoned, in favor, of what we are seeing today....................................................Using the Older, Factory Original, Oil-Filled Ignition Coils, as an example, that were used, up, until, about 1974, who's Secondary High Voltage Output, was only Required to "Jump", a Spark Plug "Gap", of, mostly, as I've seen, being .035" (thirty-five thousandths of an inch)...where-as, using the Factory Installed HEI V-8 "Stand-Alone" Distributor, as an example, as far as Chevy (Chevrolet) V-8 Engines, that I worked on, were concerned, usually had a Spark Plug "Gap" of .045" (fourty-five thousandths of an inch).................................................These Factory HEI "Stand Alone" Distributors, are something else alright, and, here's an Outstanding example for You........................................................Around the late 1970's, to the early 1980's, the "Oldsmobile" ("One", of many Names/Brands, Owned by, the GMC Parent Company, as far as I recall), had a "4.3 Litre/260 Cubic Inch (displacement) V-8 Engine", that had the Ability, to, Use, the Factory Specified, Spark Plug "Gap", of .080"...!!!...(eighty thousandths of an inch), and, if You would like the Metric Equivalent, then...(.080 Divided By .03937) = 2.032 Millimeters...!!!...or, in other words, the "LARGER" the Spark Plug "Gap", happens to be, the "HIGHER" the Ignition Coil's "Secondary High Voltage Output", has to be, in order, to Successfully "JUMP", that, sometimes, Very Large, Spark Plug "Gap" (aka, Distance).......................................................Now then, the "Ignition Systems", that only needed, the "Lower, Secondary Voltage Output"...to "Jump", those Smaller, Spark Plug "Gaps"..."Did Not" have much of a problem with, shall we say, "Spark Scatter" (inside of the distributor cap), as well as, what is usually called "Induction Cross-fire" (that's where, if conditions permit, the High, Secondary Voltage, traveling though the Intended spark plug Lead/Wire, would actually get "Induced", into another spark plug wire, that was in close proximity, and usually Parallel to each other as well), and, the result would usually be, some very un-wanted, Ignition System related, "Miss-Fire"....................................................Now then, by using the HEI V-8 Distributor as an example, its' very easy to "See", just how much "LARGER", the "Outside Diameter/Perimeter", of this HEI "Distributor Cap"..."Is"...as Compared to something like, that "Tan Colored" Distributor Cap, that is seen in this Video of mine...!!!..........................................I'll bet, that most People, are probably thinkin', that, the Reason, for this..."Much Larger HEI Distributor Cap"...was just made that "LARGE", so they, (the Engineers/Designers), would have enough Space/Room, in order to have a "Mounting Place", for that "Epoxy Type of Ignition Coil", that can be seen, residing there, maybe...???..."But", here's My Take, on the Real Reason, that, that HEI V-8 "Distributor Cap, is So "LARGE"................................................Apparently, the Government, of the Day, Mandated, the ever Decreasing, and Tightening, of the "Amount of Emissions", that were Allowed to be "Emitted Out of the Vehicles Tail Pipe/s", so, to be in "Compliance", with the, shall we say, "Emission Standards/Law/s", of that Time period, Our Friends, the Vehicle Manufacturers, had to come up with, and Engineer/Design, the appropriate "Emission Systems", in order to "Lower" the Vehicles, Tail Pipe "Emissions", to be "Low Enough & be in Compliance with", what the Government/s, made into Law.....................................................One of those "Emissions Reducing Systems", was that of, finding a way, to be able to "Burn", an "Air/Fuel Ratio", that was, quite a bit "Leaner", then that, of the ""Richer" "Air/Fuel Ratio (aka, Mixture).............................................Thus, in order to Be Able to "Initiate...the actual, usual..."Lower Engine Compression Ratio"...and..."Much Leaner, Air/Fuel Mixture"..."Burn"...in the Engine's Combustion Chamber", it was, as I see it, the "Need", for a..."More Intense, and Larger Spark"...Between, the Spark Plugs "Electrodes"...!!!..............................................As I see it, the "Higher, the Ignition Coil's, Secondary, High Voltage, Is"...and having Spark Plugs, with "Much Larger Electrode Gaps", in that particular Ignition System..."IS"...the "Reason For", that GMC's, V-8 Engine's, HEI "Distributor Cap", Being, so much "LARGER" (physically, and diametrically as well), oh, yeah, the "Reason Being"...To "Contain", and to "Prevent Spark Scatter", and probably, All of the resulting, Ignition System related...Spark Plug..."Miss-Fire-ing"...as well...!!!......................................................Now then, let's move on to, that "Smaller (black) Distributor Cap", with that, as I see it..."Way Under-Designed, Too Small, of a Carbon Button, for its Intended Use"...that is seen in this Video of mine, shall we..............................................The Spark Plug "Gaps", being, that of .045" (fourty-five thousandths of an inch), that, that "Distributor Cap, with the Tiny Carbon Button", was supposed to be responsible for, and having a "Separate" epoxy-filled Ignition Coil, with its Own, Lead/Wire, that Joined the Ignition Coil, to the Distributor Cap's Center Terminal/Tower, is, as I see, to be considered, having the Same, there-abouts, High Secondary Output Voltage, as Compared, to that, of its "Big Brother", the, so much "LARGER stand alone V-8 HEI Distributor, and my reason, for saying such a thing, is due to a very Fact, that, the Spark Plug "Gaps", being that of, the very same as, the Spark Plug "Gaps" that are "Also Found", in the "LARGE Distributor Cap Style HEI...and in Both of them, the Spark Plug "Gaps" are "Identical", being .045 (fourty-five thousandths of an inch)...!!!................................................On the HEI, with the LARGE Distributor Cap, I never had much of an Issue, with "Spark Scatter" on Factory Stock Engines, as in, "High Voltage Sparks", Dancing around Inside said Distributor Cap, unless, any, or all, of the 8 Internal Terminals, have become, Too Worn, usually due to, High Voltage, Arcing (Electrical Erosion) Between All 8 Internal, Distributor Cap Terminals, and, the "Tip of the Rotor"..................................................Now then, what were they thinking, when they chose to, Install, such a "Small (diameter) Distributor Cap", with such an "Wimpy Carbon Button" , as Compared to its..."Big Brother, the HEI, with the LARGE Distributor Cap", and a much LARGER Carbon Button as well, which, and again, as I see it..."The Solution", to Ward-Off, any potential..."Spark Scatter"...and...the resulting Ignition related...Spark Plug "Miss-Fire"...???................................................One thing, that I did Notice, was, I'm guessin', that, they thought it was alright to Use, a Much Smaller (diameter) Distributor Cap, probably, because, on a 6 Cylinder (in this case, a V-6), there are "Only 6"...Internal Terminals, making for "More Spacing", between, any Two (circumference-wise) & (internal) Distributor Cap Terminals, as opposed to, trying to "Cram", 8 (Internal) Distributor Cap terminals, into such a "Confined Space".........................................As I see it, Not only is the "Carbon Button"..."Wimpy"...but...the..."Rotor"...that Spins around "Inside" that Little Distributor Cap, is..."Just as Wimpy"...as well..............................................When it comes to, just about Any..."Very High Secondary Voltage Output" (no, not the much Lower Output Voltage, found in, something like a Factory installed points and condenser distributor, with a .035" spark plug gap), but rather, with spark plug "Gaps", of, oh, .045" or Larger, in a given Ignition System, there's only so much, the "Material", that the Distributor Cap, is made out of, is able "To Do", in as far as, being able to..."Contain & Insulate"...All of that...""Very High Secondary Output Voltage"......................................................That's probably Why, the "Larger HEI stand alone Distributor", has been Welcomed with Open Arms, by the Aftermarket/Performance Companies out there................................................Also, in the case of a GMC style HEI, stand alone, Distributor, with its One Wire/12-Volt supply Hook-up, and, if that's not enough, then, there is the "Easy to See" & "Easy to Work-0n/Modify"..."Mechanical Advance System"...with the..."Advance Weights and Springs"...on top, once you remove the Distributor Cap & Rotor, that is....................................................In closing, as it pertains to "Exchanging", different Types/Styles of Distributor Caps...both, the "Pros & Cons", being considered....................................................First consideration, would be, that of having the "Exchanged Part"..."Physically Fitting Properly"...on the "Distributor Housing/Unit"...that's a Must/Given............................................The Best "Material" (Space-Age Quality), that would "Contain and Insulate", the very High "Secondary Voltage" would be very good Insurance, for Reliability and Performance, as well as, Long Engine Life (if You take it, somewhat easy!)..........................................On Distributor Caps, I like "Brass Terminals", more then I care for "Aluminum" (much better electrical conductivity, and perhaps, longer life as well)...........................................Remember to Buy "Quality and Reputable Parts"...as that, is about the "Best Medicine", that I can "Prescribe", at this time.......................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you.
So I've got a 1971 F100 with a 5.9 V8. I recently replaced the spark plugs and wires, but after I did that it had a horribly loud knock. It was running just fine that day until I changed the plugs and wires. Could it be the distributor/cap?
what is the lifespan of carbon button brush ? should this be replaced?
I have a 1989 Ford Bronco 351 V8 no performance parts are nothing I just remember pulling out my truck in my driveway to back it out next I just shut down completely all I hear is like it sounds like a dead battery but I replace the battery and still acting the same thank you for responding me back
+John Luna ....Greetings John Luna....You're Welcome............Well, there are quite a few things, that can cause, just about any Engine to Stop Running alright.............If Your Engine is Fuel Injected, then, there are 2 Things, that should be done, in order to help Diagnose, any and all Engine Problems..........The Fuel Pressure should be Tested, with a Fuel Pressure Gauge, to make sure, that it's "With-in" the Vehicle Manufacturers "Specifications", for Your "Exact" Vehicle and Engine, oh, and, be Very Careful, as some of those "Fuel Pressures", could get as High as, about "60 PSI/Pounds per Square Inch"...!!!...so, be Sure to Wear Safety Glasses/Goggles, and have a Fire Extinguisher with-in reach...!!!............Then, Extract/Read any "Trouble Codes" (if there are Any, that is), from Your Vehicle's "On-Board Computer's/Memory".................Have You Looked for any Obvious "External" Gasoline "Leaks" at all...???..................All Electrical Wiring "Connections", have to be "Clean & Dry", in order to Prevent, any, Not-Wanted (Electrical) Resistance, or maybe, No-Connection at all, perhaps.................Depending on, just how, Your Bronco's Engine Quit Running on You, can be quite the Clue alright...........Even something like a Plugged-Up Catalytic Converter, can, shall we say "Suffocate" Your Engine's (exhaust system's) Breathing ability, and if really Bad, the Engine, will probably have No-Guts, and might even Stall..............Even though, a Brand New, Fully Charged-Up Battery, might have lots of Power (as in, lots of cold cranking Amps/Amperes), along with a really good Starting System/Starter Motor, then, at times, all it takes, for the Engine to Crank-Over "Slowly"...or..."Not at all", is to have, a "Flooded Engine" (as in, way too much Gasoline, that got into the Engine's Cylinders), that will Slow-Down, or Prevent the Pistons, from going "Up", on the Compression Stoke, in any of the Engine's, (gasoline) Flooded Cylinders.............Might be, that, Your Bronco's, Charging System, isn't Charging the Battery, as it should be doing, possibly...???.................Here's about the best advice, that I have for You, at this point in time.................Maybe, do an Internet Search, for some Ford Truck Websites, that have "Forums" on them, where You can Ask all kinds of Questions, about Your "Exact" Bronco and Engine, cuz, there are some, really Smart People, on most of those Website "Forums", and there is the possibility, that some of those People, have already "Diagnosed & Fixed" Problems, much like You are having at the moment...................They should be able to tell You, how to go about, Extracting any Trouble Codes, that might be Stored, in Your Bronco's, Computer Memory, as well as, how to Test the Fuel Pressure (I hope).........Good Luck, and.........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Rocky, how can you tell what is the #1 terminal on the cap if it's not marked? I have a late '60's MOPAR and looks like your tan cap in the video. Thx.
Greetings...Michael H.................Thanks for watching................If it were only that easy..................You were sayin', that, You have a late 60's Mopar there, and that's a good start (to things) alright, but, there are quite a few differences, between, a Mopar's set of Spark Plug "Wire's", shall we say, "Arrangement", as there are...6 Cylinder Engines...and 8 Cylinder Engines, that have their Distributors, mounted on the Engine, in different places, and, not only that, but, some "Rotors", inside the Distributor Cap, Revolve/Turn...Clockwise...while others...Spin...Anti-Clockwise (or Counter-Clockwise)..............Then, there's the...Firing Order...for that Exact Engine as well.................Usually, the inline 6 Cylinder Engines, and the Small Block V-8 Engines (up-to about 360 cubic inch displacement, having their Distributors, at the back of the engine), then, the "Rotor", will usually Spin in a Clockwise direction, where-as, a...Big Block V-8 (oh, about, 383 to 440 cubic inch displacement, will probably have the Distributor, at the Front of the engine), and the Rotor, will probably be Spinning "Counter-Clockwise" (same as sayin', anti-clockwise)...............If You can let me know, "Exactly", what Your Engine actually is...and...has You Distributor been Removed, or Re-Installed, or, are You, just tryin' to install, a New Set of Spark Plug "Wires", perhaps...???...cuz, otherwise, I'll just be going on, another one, of my favorite..."Wild Goose Chases"...!!! (again)...lol...................So, if You care to, just let me know, all that You can, as it applies to, just what...???... You happen to be up against, that way, I'll have a much better chance, at being able to help You out...thanks, and.........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank u, I needed to know about the existence of a 'carbon button.' so u said, " it never fails.." -something like that.. - what if it broke on my distributor? Like the button is off broken in half
I am looking at some replacement caps & rotors for my car. I see different contact materials (in order of cheapest to most expensive): steel, graphite, stainless steel, and brass.
Is it worth buying the better parts for a clunker? Specifically, a 1993 Grand Cherokee. If steel will last 2-3 years, then I'm fine with that.
Can I mix the contact materials? I.e., a cap with steel contacts and a rotor with brass.
Greetings Adam Klingenberger....My advice, and what I usually do with an Average Car or Truck (aka Grocery Getter), would be, to stick with "Brand-Name" Parts for starters, as opposed to Cheap, and Low Quality Parts, that may not work all that well, or, last all that long either....Seeing as how you classified your Jeep Grand Cherokee as a Clunker?, I take it that you would like to have your Ride Run Properly at the Lowest Price possible perhaps?....If that be the case, then I would at least recommend going with a Distributor Cap with "Brass" Terminals (only a little more Cost over Aluminum Terminals in the distributor cap)....Aluminum Terminals in the Cap will "Erode" (electrical arc) at a faster rate then the Brass ones, although, Aluminum terminals will still get the job done....Also, some of the Manufacturers out there, are Molding in, what look like "Vents" on top of the Distributor Cap (kinda looks like a "Mini-Tower"), and, I think that they did this to Minimize "Condensation" (water droplets) inside the Cap (just something that you may have on your new Cap, as a Bonus Feature!)....Now for the Rotor....The "Tip" of the rotor is usually made of Steel, and that will work just fine....The Springy Steel "Strip" that connects with the Center Contact inside the Distributor Cap is usually a Bright Silver Metal (either a type of Spring Steel or Stainless Steel)...and...(a better/more expensive type of Stainless Steel will be "Anti-Magnetic", and, can easily be checked with a fairly Strong Permanent-Magnet as well)....The thing to look out for with some of the Rotors that I have seen, is, to have a close look at how the metal Tip (usually a flat bar of steel) is "Secured" to the rest of the Rotor Material....Watch-out here now, as some of them are Barely secured with, what looks like the Rotor Material just being "Melted" (probably by Heat), and, from my perspective, is rather "Weak" to say the least....Also, have a look, and see if any of the Parts Places in the area where you reside, offer the Distributor Cap and Rotor as a "Kit" (Kit = Cap and Rotor in the same package), as, that will save you some Money as well (I have found that buying them Separately usually costs more, most of the time)....Also, no matter how much money that you decide to spend, it would be in your best interest to Check these "Hidden" things (namely, in this case, Your Cap and Rotor) at least once a Year, or at 12,000 Miles/20,000 Kilometers interval, whichever comes first!....Make sure that you "Check" your "Base-Ignition-Timing" immediately after you install the New Distributor Cap and Rotor, as, there are Manufacturing "Tolerances" of these parts, that Don't Guarantee that your Ignition Timing will be the same as before!.... Don't forget now, there's a "Whole-Lotta-High-Voltage-Sparkin-Goin-On!!!"...lol....So then, I recommend going with a "Brand-Name" Distributor Cap with "Brass-Terminals" (might even have that Mini-Tower that I had mentioned earlier), and, a "Brand-Name" Rotor as well (the one that is in the "Kit", if you go that route, will be just fine)....Now, Go Shopping!...lol...Good Luck....Take care, and have a good one.
I just spent a grand on a brand new carburetor timing and a tuneup on my 77 Ford LTD with a 400 Engine. I am assuming the mechanic set the carburetter screws up correctly But the spark plugs are black and sooty? Along with the exhaust pipes Also. The car hasn’t been running for years when I bought it three years ago and wasn’t running as bad when I first bought it so I assume the engine is just plain wearing out? There is some blow by coming out of the oil cap when it’s running so it could be piston rings or who knows what I’m just wondering why the spark plugs are so sooty.
Greetings...Wolfwagon C...……..Thanks for watching...……..Well, black "carbon", that's covering the things that you mentioned, might be, too much fuel (gasoline), in the air/fuel ratio (mixture), or, too weak of a spark, between the spark plug's electrodes (ignition misfire, possibly?), and also, sometimes, one or more (engine) cylinders, not having enough compression, in it/or them, as the case may be...…….Too rich of an air/fuel ratio/mixture, can sometimes, be caused by the carburetor's "choke" plate, not fully opening-up, into it's, usually "vertical" (up and down) position, when the engine is fully warmed-up to operating (coolant) temperature, as in, a choke plate, that's not fully opened up, will restrict the amount of "air", that's entering the top of the carburetor, which will make the carburetor run too rich, when the engine is fully warmed-up...……Also, the carburetor's "float" (inside), can sometimes be faulty, not adjusted correctly, stuck some-what, and also, on much older carburetors, there can be times, where the float, might even sink to some extent, which will allow gasoline, to rise (up), too high in the carburetor's float bowl, which usually results in, way too much gasoline, being dumped into the engine (not so good...right?)………..Also, the needle and seat (valve), that the float actuates, might not be sealing properly, when-ever it needs to be, as in, when-ever the carburetor's float bowl, gets up to its full gasoline level (sometimes, dirt/debris or crud, on the needle & seat, will cause the same problem, just so Ya know)....….If the carburetor on your 400 cubic inch engine, is like the original carburetor, then, I'm thinkin', that, it could be the model 2150 Ford, 2-barrel (Motorcraft or Autolite maybe?), and, if it's like the model 2100 carburetor, then, it might have had, a bracket on the side of it, where, one of the coolant (that be, the anti-freeze and water mixture), rubber heater (core)"hoses", sat in, right next to the carburetor's thermostatic choke spring housing, to help warm-up that spring, to make it relax (un-coil itself?), when-ever the coolant's temperature gets hotter, so the choke plate will open-up, to it's "fully open...vertical" position, so, have that "checked-out", just in case...…..On your (maybe?), model 2150 carburetor, there might be a small canister looking item, that's usually called a "choke pull-off"...or sometimes, it's called a..."vacuum break"...and, it is responsible for opening the choke plate, just a little bit, when the cold engine is first started, so, make sure that it's adjusted and working properly...….....There is something called a "spark tester", that doesn't cost very much, that will usually have 2 electrodes in it, that are spaced apart a certain amount, and also, there is an adjustable one, that has markings on it, marked in the thousands of volts, and to use one, just follow the spark tester's instructions, to test the strength of the ignition system's output...…….With the engine "not running", it's usually, just a matter of, plugging the spark tester, into one of the spark plug wires, and, connecting a/the ground wire, from the spark tester, to a good engine "ground"...…….There's bound to be some "blow-by", when-ever an engine reaches the 100,000 mile mark, that's showing, on the vehicle's odometer, and, for the most part, it's probably due to, the piston ring's "end gap", getting larger, as the rings and cylinder (diameter) wears a certain amount...……..To test for the amount of "blow-by", I usually "remove" the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve, and any hoses, that are connected to the valve cover, or covers, as the case may be, and, having the engine fully warmed-up to operating temperature and running, I have a look-see, as to, how much...???..."blow-by"..."Smoke"...is coming out of, any of the open holes on the valve/valve covers...……..A simple "compression test", can be done, on all 8 cylinders (one at a time, of course...lol), in order to see, what kind of cylinder "pressure" (compression), that, there happens to be...…….The good ole rule of thumb, use-tah be, 100 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch) "minimum", of cylinder pressure (as in, at the very least), and also, not having too much of a difference, in cylinder "pressure", between all 8 cylinders, as it applies to your 400 cubic inch "V-8" engine...…….Make sure that, all ignition system parts & pieces are in like new condition, and, the air and fuel filters are really clean too...…….If you are still having trouble, after checking the above things, then, just give me a shout...…….Good luck, and...…..till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hi, I have a 86 Scottsdale k20 with a sbc 350. When I go to start my truck it turns over and runs but it makes a popping noise out the exhaust, no flames or anything it just pops. I replaced plugs, and plug wires and I have a brand new battery too. All of which are the best money can buy (so I was told) after installing the new parts it still pops very loudly. Is there maybe a issue with my cap/ rotor? The truck ran fine 3 weeks prior but I don't drive it everyday. I just turned 16 and I spent every last penny I had on this vehicle. Can you please help me out!!!! I'll take in consideration any ideas! Thanks -CJ
+C McCav ....Greetings C McCav....Thanks for watching................Now then, let's see, if we can find out, what's causin' all of that "Pop-in", shall we..................The first thing that comes to mind (mine, that is), happens to be...are All 8 spark plug "Wires"...Installed in the "Correct Order", around the top of the Distributor Cap...???...cuz, if only 2 of them, are Switched with one-another (more is even worse), then, the Engine won't Run Smoothly at all, and, could very well, be causing, the...pop...Pop...POP...that You were Hearing............The Distributor "Rotor" (inside the distributor cap), will usually Revolve/Spin, in a "Clockwise" Direction (as viewed from above), on Chevy 350 (V-8) Engine...................The "Firing Order" (that be, the Order, in which the engine's Cylinders Fire), on a Chevy 350-V8, is usually...1...8...4...3...6...5...7...2...and the spark plug "Wires", have to be Placed in that Order, around the Top of the Distributor Cap, in a Clockwise Direction (as viewed from above), and Hopefully, the Number 1 spark plug "Wire", is in the "Correct" (starting) Position, on top of the Distributor Cap to begin with, or, the Engine, just won't Run right, if, at all.............The Chevy 350...V-8's "Cylinder Numbering", is as follows........As You are..."Sitting in the Driver's Seat"...on the "Left Side" of the Engine, You have, the Number 1 Cylinder, Closest to the Front of the Vehicle, then Number 3, then Number 5, then Number 7....................Then, on the "Right Side" of the Engine (while still Sitting in the Driver's Seat...lol), You have, Cylinder Number 2, Closest to the Front of the Vehicle, then Number 4, then Number 6, then Number 8......................So, "Make Sure", that, the spark plug "Wires", on the Distributor Cap, are in Their Correct Places/Firing Order, while also having, Each spark plug "Wire", Going-to, the "Correct", Cylinder Number's spark plug................I usually, just wrap a piece of masking tape, around each spark plug "Wire", leaving, what, kinda looks-like, a Flag-like...looking end on it, where I use a Felt Pen, and write the Cylinder Numbers, 1 through 8, on them, cuz, I find it much easier, to see, where Each of those spark plug "Wires" are coming-from...and...where they-are going-to...as well...!!!...lol...........A Lady, was tellin' me, a while ago, how She used Different Colors of Nail-Polish, to, shall we say..."Color-Code"...each of the spark plug "Wires"...Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...that is one Smart Lady alright...!!!.....................So then, once You "Verify", that All of Your spark plug "Wires" are "Installed" properly, in Their Correct Positions, and are in the Correct Firing Order as well, and You are still having, that Popping sound, just let me know, and we can proceed from there, if You like...............Good Luck, and.........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
THANX
Greetings INTERNA9....Thanks for Your comment, and, for viewing this Distributor Cap and Rotor Condition (Part 2) video of mine as well...The reason that I made this "Part 2" Video, is, because, someone pointed out to me, that I didn't address some of the, shall we say, "Finer Points", of, what to be looking out for, when Inspecting the Distributor Cap and Rotor, in relation to, Faults, Problems, Wear, and anything, that just might cause an Ignition "Miss-Fire", and then some!....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I have a 97 Nissan altima it turns over but doesn't start sometimes it starts for a sec then goes right back to turning over with no start what could it be also my starter signal is not getting any power
Greetings Jamiliah Collier....There are "Many" things, that can cause similar "Symptoms", such as the one/ones that that Your Car is experiencing....It may be a "Fuel Starvation" Problem, that could include a Faulty Electric Fuel Pump (that Hides inside Your Car's gas tank), or, any of the related Electrical Parts, such as a Fuel Pump Relay, or, even something as simple as a Clogged Fuel Filter perhaps....It might even be an Ignition problem....I have found that sometimes, the following might get Your Car's Engine Running, but, No Guarantee, and, the Price is right...Free!!!
Try starting Your car's Engine, using the following procedure, as I have found that, in some circumstances, to worked for me.
You can try the following, with Your Car's Engine Cold or Hot...
Make sure Your Car is on Level Ground, In Park (automatic transmission), with Emergency/Parking Brake On.
Just Hold Your Gas Pedal Down, about 1/3 (one third) of the way, and hold it there, while engaging the Starter.
If it Starts, get Your Foot Off of the Gas Pedal, to keep Your Engine from Spinning Too Fast (and may Damage Your Engine).
Will the Engine Start, and keep Running?
What You will probably have to get done, is, to get Your Car's ECU (Car's On-board Computer) "Scanned", with a Device, called a "Scan Tool" (kinda looks like a Big Calculator), that will "Extract" any "Trouble Codes" that might be "Stored" in Your ECU (aka, cars computer).
The "Trouble Codes" (if any), will "Inform" a Person, in a pretty precise way, as to what might be wrong with any of the Sensors, Actuators, Electrical Circuits, and, even the ECU itself, as the case may be.
Here's a Tip, to help "Extend" the Life of Your (in the gas tank) Electric Fuel Pump...
...It's Simple, really, just keep Your Car's Gas Tank at least 1/4 Full (one quarter), at all times, Never less!
The reason being, that, the Gasoline itself, helps to keep that (in the gas tank) electric fuel pump "Cool", otherwise, it might just get a little bit too hot, shortening the useful life, of that "Expensive" Electric Fuel Pump, not to mention, the Labor Costs, to Install the New One, in the gas tank!!! (Hundreds of Dollars!!!).
Like I was saying in a previous comment/reply...Start with a Proper "Tune-Up", that has to be done anyway.
Best of Luck...
Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
what is the flat metal piece under distributor cap n ignition rotor
Greetings...Jerrad Schlemmer..............Thanks for watching............If, that flat metal piece, that's on top of the Rotor, is what you're asking about, then, it's the flat metal bar, if you will, that, conducts the high voltage electricity, from the distributor cap's, center carbon/resistor button (where it makes contact with that flat metal bar), then, that high voltage goes through the flat metal bar, all the way to its Tip, then, the high voltage Arcs (sparks) over, to one of the side Terminals (inside of the distributor cap), that is in the closest position (as in, the one that's lining up with the Tip of the rotor, at that particular time), then, through that distributor cap's (side) terminal, the high voltage electricity goes, then, through the spark plug wire, then, into the spark plug it goes, then, if everything is working properly, there will be a high voltage arc/spark, happening, between, the spark plug's, (two) electrodes..............The ignition coil, is what produces that high voltage to begin with, and, the high voltage electricity travels, out of the ignition coil's, high voltage/secondary terminal, then, through a shorter looking spark plug wire, who's other end, attaches, to the center terminal/tower, that's on top of the distributor cap, just so Ya know.............If the above, is not what you are wanting to know about, then, let me know, the best that you can, about what it might be, if it happens to be different from, what I was already telling you about, thanks, and..........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Can the center carbon button be changed out for a bigger better grade one?
Greetings...Fabian Rodriguez...…….As far as I know, there are-not, very many distributor caps, that have a separate, and, able to be changed, "carbon contact button"...……..The General Motors V-8 engine's, HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributor, that has a very Large distributor cap, does have, a separate carbon contact button, which can be replaced, or, if need be, a Low Resistance, carbon contact button (aftermarket one), can be installed as well...……..There might be, an aftermarket distributor (not an original factory one), which might have, a replaceable carbon contact button, possibly...???...and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
my 91 camaro has been running like crap lately. plugs and wires are fine so i pulled the distributor cap and the center contact is black and burned all the way down. The cap has been replaced before at some point so do you think it could just be a poor quality cap or is something else wrong like the coil?
+Alex's Bikes and Motors Greetings Alex's Bikes and Motors....Thanks for watching.........You almost nailed it...!!!...lol.................That Distributor Cap, with that Way too Small and Wimpy Carbon Button, is the worst that I've seen yet.........................That itty-bitty spring loaded Carbon Button/Resistor, Wears Down, at, way too fast of a rate, for my liking, as compared to the solidly mounted, much Larger Carbon Button/Resistor, that You can see, in the Tan/light brown Distributor Cap, in this UA-cam Video of mine........................I'm thinkin', that, when that little, way too small, in diameter, carbon button, Wears, to the point of not making "Contact", with the Rotor's, shall we call it Flat Metal Bar, then, that little Carbon Button will probably start, Electrically, High Voltage "Arcing", as in, a High Voltage Flash, "Between", the "not touching any more", little Carbon Button, to that Flat Metal Bar , down inside, that little Rotor, that spins with the Distributor's shaft..........That little Carbon Button, will probably Wear-away, at a faster Rate, as the Not Wanted, "Gap" between the Carbon Button, and the Rotor's, Flat Metal Bar Increases....................That's probably what You were seeing with Your Distributor Cap's Carbon Button...........Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...You're gonna need a New Distributor Cap and Rotor, at the very least.......................If and when-ever You Replace, Your Distributor Cap and Rotor, it would probably Help that little Carbon Button, to Last, quite a bit Longer, if You were to Sand and "Polish", to a some-what..."Mirror-Smooth-Finish"...that Flat Metal Bar, in the Rotor, where that little Carbon Button makes "Contact"............................Some of those Rotor's, Flat Metal Bars, that I have seen, look to have, a Roughly Machined Finish, and others, might not even be machined at all, quite possibly......................You really have to "Check" these little Carbon Button, "Style" of Distributor Caps, "Way more Often/Shorter Interval", then the Distributor Caps, that have Carbon Button/Resistors, that are much Larger in Diameter alright................Just always remember, Don't let that little, spring loaded Carbon Button/Resistor, get too Short, and, not be making Contact, with the Rotor's, Flat Metal Bar, or, it'll be...High Voltage Arcing..."Destruction"...as You have already seen for Yourself...!!!....Yikes...!!!...lol...???.........................Try to buy, a Good Quality, Distributor Cap, that has Brass Terminals on it, cuz, it's better then Aluminum, and only costs a bit more as well..........................If You can Buy the Distributor Cap and Rotor as a "Kit", that be, where they are Purchased together, and maybe in the very same Package, cuz, by doing so, You'll probably save a bit of Money, as compared to, Purchasing them as single units..........................So, perhaps, try Replacing Your Distributor Cap & Rotor, and see if Your Engine starts behaving itself, once again, and if not...???...just let me know, if You care to...............Good Luck, and............till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+RockysRoadshow thanks for the info. I have a new cap and rotor on order. I'll get back to you if it runs any better
+Alex's Bikes and Motors Replaced the cap and rotor and now the car runs awesome. Thanks for your help
+Alex's Bikes and Motors Greetings Alex's Bikes and Motors...As the Fireworks Display is Lighting-Up the Evening Sky, I say..."Congratulations"...for getting Your Camaro running good again, as well as, not having to take out a Bank Loan, to do so...lol..............................So, now that You know, what to be looking out for, in respect to that little wimpy (distributor cap), Carbon/Resistor Button, kinda self-destructing, in such a short time, You're gonna have to..."Always Remember"...to Visually Check that little wimpy Carbon Button, quite often, as in, Months, to make sure, that, it Does Not Wear Down, to, shall we say Nothing, and............till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
What will happen if the center pin in the cap melts however the engine dose start ?
Greetings...Ahmad Maher...........Thanks for watching..........Well, if that center pin (as you call it), melts, then, that sure doesn't sound very good to me, at all.........If you can tell me more about your car or truck, as in...Year...Make...Model...Engine size...and, if anything was "Modified" at all, as in, high performance parts, and/or, ignition timing settings, that "are not", stock/manufacturer/factory settings/adjustments..........So then, the more, that you can tell me about your problem, then, the more, that, I will be able to help you out...thanks...and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
CAN THIS CAUSE YOUR CAR TO RUN GOOD FOR 30 MINUTES THEN NOT WANTING TO START AFTER WARM MOTOR.
Greetings siKC One The Great....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment too....Usually, a Distributor Cap and Rotor, for the most part, from my experience, hasn't caused the "Symptom" that You seem to have "Experienced"....But, the "Ignition Wires", as I have experienced in the past, "Did", make a Car, that I had at the time, "Do" some very "Strange" Things!!!....I will get to the "Story", in a few moments, but first, in order to Help You out, with Your Car's "Problem", I really need to "Know", what "Year", and "What" Car, that You are having the "Problem" with ???
"Diagnosing" a "Fuel Injected" Engine, is quite a bit "Different" from, "Diagnosing" an Engine with a "Carburetor" on it!!!
Now then, back to that "Story" of mine...
I had a 350 Cubic Inch Chevy V-8 (1971), with a "Points and Condenser" Distributor Ignition System.
Sometimes, I would Start it up in the Morning, and it Ran Fine..."Until"...
..the Engine was almost Fully Warmed-Up..."Then"...
...the Engine, would, All of a Sudden, "Go Silent", and, shut itself OFF!!!...
...If I let it "Cool-Down" for a while, it would start back up, and would Run OK, for quite a long time.
I still recall, Cruising along, on a Secondary Highway, Engine was running Ok, then, "Silence", for about 3 to 5 Seconds, then, it Started Running "Again", as though, it Never Stopped Running!...(closest encounter, that I ever had, with a..."GHOST!!!"...lol).
So, I was Puzzled, with just "What", may be causing this "Weird", Automatic, Shutting-Off of that 350 Chevy Engine???
Then, I figured that, it's probably the "Ignition Coil" that's Causing the Running "Symptom" that I was Experiencing...
But, before I "Condemn" that there Ignition Coil, maybe I should I start looking around at all of the Ignition Parts and Pieces, before, I run out, and Buy a New Ignition Coil...
Everything seemed to look just fine..."Until"...
...I Removed the Coil to Distributor Cap's "High Tension" Lead (aka, ignition wire, that goes from the ignition coil's center tower, to the center of the distributor cap), and, I had a Look at Both ends of that Ignition Lead (Lead = Wire), and...
..."There's the Problem!!!"...
...It turned out to be, that, the "End" of that High Tension Lead, that Connects to the Ignition Coil's Tower, actually "ARCED" (Arced = High Voltage "Spark"), Between the Ignition Wires "Internal Conductor", and the "Metal Terminal", that, it's supposed to be, "Positively Connected To!!!"
That High Voltage "ARC", over quite some time (I figure), actually Started "Eating" that Coil to Distributor Cap's Ignition Wire's "Internal Conductor", to the Point, that, there was just "Too Much Distance" Between the Ignition Wires "Internal Conductor", and the Ignition Wire's "Metal Connector", that it's supposed to be "Crimped Solid" To!!!
Once, I Installed "NEW" Ignition Wires, the "GHOST", that was Haunting my 350 Chevy V-8, "Vanished", and my Engine...
...Never Saw that "Ghost" Again!!!
So, there You have it, "Some" Problems, can be "Intermittent", and at times, "Hidden from View", as well.
So, while, Some, "Parts and Pieces", might "Look" Alright from the "Outside", they "Sometimes", "Are Not" Alright on the "Inside!"
So then, if You care to, please let me know, what "Year", and "What" Car, that You have there, so, I can help You out, with-out, having me, going on a...
..."Wild Goose Chase!!!"...lol...and...
...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow thanks for the help i have a 1992 caprice classic v8 5.0 l
it is a tbi car. i just changed couple parts on it. I changed the icm, ignition coil,fuel pump,cooling sensor, and purge valve. but nothing still does the same. now im thinking of changing the pick up coil and the distributor cap???
i will check the ignition cables.
*****
Greetings siKC One The Great....I have had very good luck, with a Fuel Injected vehicle, just a few years newer then Yours, and, although the actual Fuel Injection System, Is Not Exactly the same as Yours is, give the Following a Try, as it "Does-Not" Cost Any Money at all....Here is what I do, when Experiencing a "No Start" (of the Engine), and "Especially" when the Engine is..."Warm" or "Hot!"....First, make sure that Your Transmission is in Park, if it's an Automatic, and, Neutral, if it's a Standard Transmission, and, make sure Your Parking Brake is On, just in case...
...Then...Just Simply "Hold" the Gas Pedal Down, about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way down, and Hold the gas pedal there, while You Start the Engine, and, if the Engine Starts, get Your Foot OFF of the Gas Pedal....If the Engine starts Stalling on You, when You took Your Foot Off of the gas pedal, You can try to give it just enough gas pedal, to keep it from Stalling.
If the Engine will Idle and Run OK, with Your foot "Off" of the gas pedal, and, if the engine sounds and runs Ok, try driving it a short distance, and see how Your Engine Runs/Acts.
I have found, that the above Procedure, will..."Also"...Help a Fuel Injected Engine, that is having Trouble with a..."Cold Start"...Start Very Good as well...!!! (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, for me, it worked like a "Charm!")...
..and look Ma, I didn't even spend a "Cent" (actually in Canada, the Canadian Government "Discontinued" Making, and might be in the process, of Not Using, as Currency, the "Penny" or, its Other name, being "Cent", and more then one Cent, are called "Cents").
While, I can't Promise, that the above Procedure will work for Your Engine, as in, helping it to "Start", either "Hot" or "Cold"...for the Price, which is "Nothing", I think its worth a try, Dont-cha think?
Try "My" so called Hot & Cold Helping-to-Start-the-Engne "Procedure", and, see if it works for You.
Let me know, if You have any Success, or, otherwise.
Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
When the prong chip away will it cause it to
Miss ??? Rough idl
Greetings...Ram M457...……..Thanks for watching...……..Well, if that "prong", that you are talking about, happens to be, that, small, metal, flat bar, that is part of the "rotor", that spins around, inside of the distributor cap, then, here's, what will usually happen...……..I be thinkin', that, that "chip", that, you were also talking about, is actually, the result of, "high voltage", electrical "arcing" (root word = arc), and, can also be referred to, as, high voltage, electrical "erosion", so to speak...…….When-ever, high voltage, is able, to jump an air gap, that's between two metal points, then, a (high voltage), electrical "arc" (spark), will usually be seen...……..As the rotor's metal "tip", and the metal contacts, that are inside of the distributor cap, get eaten away, by all of that high voltage, "arcing/sparking", then, the "air gap", will also, start to get "Larger", and, the Larger, that, that "air gap" gets, then, the more difficult it gets, for the ignition coil, to create, the increased amount of high voltage, that is required, to jump (electrically arc), that, much "Larger" air gap...!!!...……..If the air gap, that's between, the rotor's "tip", and the metal terminals, that are inside of the distributor cap, as well as, the air gap, that's between, the spark plug's, two electrodes, starts to get too "Large", then yes, this alone, can be, the cause of a rough idle, as well as, ignition system, related "misfires", just about any time, that the engine is running...…….There are quite a few, different things, that can also cause, a rough idle too, depending on, what kind of vehicle, it happens to be, and also, what year/how old, the vehicle actually is...???...……..If you can tell me the following, then, I'll see what I can do, to help you out...……..What...year...make...model...engine size, and number of cylinders, that it has.....and.....till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
You have much patience, Sir. Were/Are you a teacher of some sort?
Greetings...StuckInMyGarage........Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...on a good day, I probably do, have quite a bit of patience, alright........I'm not, and never was, a teacher, well, at least, in an official capacity, that is........Probably, what you are seeing, and hearing from me, is due to, the many "Mentors" (aka, people, that have helped me learn, so much, about, so many subjects/topics/life-lessons, especially so, during the time, when, I was just a young boy/early teen).........For example, starting, when I was only about 8 years old, a neighbor, who lived across the street, taught me, what seems like, an infinitesimal amount of information, and, life-skills, as in, playing chess, reading sheet music, playing musical instruments, as well as, hands on, tradesman-like skills, as well.........As I look back now, I recall, that, that very same neighbor, did such a good job, that, I actually made, a whole, croquet set, which includes, turning, the round croquet balls, and the mallet heads, on his wood lathe, when, now get this...when I was only, about, ten years old...!!! (funny thing is, I never gave it much thought/took it for granted, way-back-when)........Hmmm...just a though...it, just might be, that, my sub-conscious , is tellin' me, to..."pay-it-forward"...possibly...???...as in, so many people, have helped me, along, my life's path, so far, therefore, I think, that, it's only fair, to do like wise, and do the right thing, and help others out, along their way, as well, I be thinkin'..........So then, there's a small sample, for you to contemplate, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
When I mashed down on gas pedal 1997 Ford F-150 it was choking almost quitting let off gas an run better, then did again then quit now want crank! Rotor button distributer?
Greetings...Teresa walker...........Thanks for watching...........It appears, that, Your 1997 Ford F-150 (V-6 or V-8 Engine?)..."Does Not"...have a..."Distributor"...in it, at all, so, You won't have to worry about having one, as well as, having, the distributor "Cap" and "Rotor", that's, usually a part-of, that very same (non-existent) Distributor................Engine...Won't Crank over...???...Dead, or Low (charge), Battery maybe...???...might need to have the Battery Charged up, with a Battery Charger, perhaps, or, there might be a problem, with the (electrical) Ignition/Starting System, or maybe, the Fuel Pump, might not be working very good, and, if it's really, not so good, a Mechanic, might have to have a look at it, to see what's wrong, quite possibly.................Your 1997 F-150, will probably have, quite a few "Sensors" and "Actuators", that interact, with Your Pick-em-up-Truck's, "On-Board Computer" (being the Brain, so to speak), that, will be Controlling, the "Fuel System" (including, the Fuel Injectors, that spray pressurized gasoline, into the engine), as well as, the "Ignition System" (that be, the system, that's in-charge-of, making the spark plugs fire/go spark), and might even be, Controlling the Automatic Transmission as well, in some cases...............Did You happen to see, any "Dash-Board Warning Lights" at all...???...cuz, if so, then, that's probably tellin' You, that, something is up, alright.................Here are "2-Things", that can be done, to, shall we say, help find the Problem, or Problems, as the case may be, that are causing, Your Pick-em-up-Truck, to not be running, all that well................The first one, is to, have Your F-150's...On-Board Computer..."Scanned"...for any..."Trouble Codes"...that might be Stored in its Memory................There are sometimes, Automotive Part Stores, that have been known to, "Scan", a Vehicle's On-Board Computer for "FREE", with a Scan Tool (kinda, looks-like, a slightly larger, hand held calculator)...so then, try making a few Phone Calls, and ask the People that work there, if they will "Scan" Your Ford F-150's, On-Board Computer for "Free"...and if You're not having much luck with that, then, it shouldn't cost very much, to do so (I hope).................The Other one, is, to have the..."Fuel Pressure"...Checked, with a Fuel Pressure Testing "Gauge", in order to, make sure, that, the Fuel Pressure, is with-in, the "Specifications", for Your "Exact", Vehicle and Engine, cuz, if it isn't, then, Your F-150's Engine, probably, won't be Runnin' so well, or in some cases, the Engine, might not even Start.................The Very "High Fuel Pressure", in a Fuel Injected Vehicle, is Very Dangerous, and can Destroy a Person's Eyes, making it so, that, Eye Protection is Mandatory (aka, Must have, and be Wearing too), as well as, the Gasoline, that might, spray or leak, can, on a bad day, catch Fire, so, having a Fire Extinguisher near-by, is pretty much, a Must-have, as well...!!!.............So then, have those "2-Things", that I mentioned above, done/performed, that way, You'll have a much better idea, as to what kind of Medicine (more like, Parts and Money...lol), that, might be needed, so, when-ever You start..."Mashin'...Your Pick-em-up-Truck's, Gas Pedal again, "it" will "Go", just like it did, Before, it got too Slow for You...lol...Good Luck, and........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks all very much ,your a big help, have a great day!
15:05 NO. You mark the wires: Take a picture. Take wires off. Take Cap off. R&R Rotor. Install Cap. Install Wires just like you see in the picture you took.
I'm having problems with my truck my engine turns but nothing turns on I smell gas I feel like I'm not getting any spark what do you think it means
+John Luna ....Greetings John Luna....Thanks for watching..................If You are Smelling Gasoline, be very Careful, cuz, the last thing, that Anyone wants, is a Vehicle Fire...!!!..................I have no idea, what-so-ever, as to, what Your Vehicle, actually happens to be, other than, it's a Truck, so, if You can let me know....Your Truck's...Year...Make...Model...Engine Size and Number of Cylinders, Inline, V-6, V-8, or...???... and if it's Factory Stock, or Modified in any way, then, I can be much more Specific, and a little less Generic, with the Help, that I'll be able to offer You.................So, for the time being, here's some Generic Information for You....................A Gasoline Engine, pretty much, needs to have the following...................Reasonably Good Compression, in all of its Cylinders................The correct, Gasoline, Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, for the Engine's Operating condition, at any given time...and...a good Strong Spark, between, all of the Spark Plug's Electrodes, at the Correct time.............Has Your Truck, had a "Tune-Up", and "Maintenance" done, in accordance with the Vehicle Manufacturer's...Recommended...Time or Mileage/Kilometer-age "Interval"...???...cuz, there are Parts that Wear-Out, and in some cases, there can be things, that need to be Checked, and/or Adjusted, as the case may be....................So then, if, and when-ever, You let me know, about Your "Exact" Truck, I will then, more than likely, have quite a bit to say, that, should at least, point You in the right direction, and be of some Help to You, and............till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+RockysRoadshow thank you so much! I had 2 and 7 switched on the distributor, I wasn't home so i told my dad to check it out and everything turned out great. Much appreciated.
+C McCav ....Greetings C McCav....You're Welcome, and..."Congratulations"...to, both, You and your Dad, for..."Gittin'-er-Fixed"...without even havin' to take the Wallet out of Ur Pocket...!!!...lol............................Now then, if You really want to Hear any "Pop-in" again, that You can Really Enjoy, may I suggest, makin' some "Pop-Corn"...!!!...lol...and........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
The small spin piece is burnt is this y my car wnt strt
Greetings Jamiliah Collier....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/question as well....Although, the "Small Spin Piece" (aka, "Rotor", and I like what You called it, by the way), can sometimes look Burned, but, doesn't always mean, that it would not be able to function (work) at all....That "Burned" Look, that You were seeing, is more then likely the "Result", of all of the "High Voltage Electricity" that is "Jumping" between the "Tip of the Rotor" and each of the "Internal Contacts" inside the Distributor Cap, while the Engine is Running.
While, on the other hand, if, Your "Rotor", and "Distributor Cap", are too far gone (aka, Worn Past its Useful Life, in terms of, Hours of engine operation, and also, that of "Mileage/Kilometer-age", that is being shown on Your Vehicles "Odometer", You know, those Numbers that are located somewhere near Your Speedometer, indicating how far the vehicle has traveled, distance-wise), then, there just might be Trouble brewing, and might be the, or, just One of the "Trouble-Makers", that are preventing Your Vehicle from Starting (and Running too).
The words "Tune Up", are some very Important words, that a Vehicle Owner should always be thinking about, from time to time.
The so called "Tune Up", Basically means, to "Replace" Vehicle Parts, when they get to the point of...Before they "Wear-Out", become "Unsafe", or, are "Not Able" to do their Job Properly.
Before I go any further, You had mentioned that Your Car "Would Not" Start...
...When You attempt to Start Your Car's Engine, does the "Starter Motor"..."Crank the Engine Over", as in, the Engine Sayin'...(Whirrr...Whirrr...Whirrr...), or maybe just a "Click", and Silence perhaps?
If the Engine "Cranks-Over", at a Fast Speed, then, there are "2" Basic Things that a Gasoline Engine Needs, to keep running...
...First, it needs Gasoline mixed with Air, in the correct proportions.
(I know, this may seem silly, but, is there Gasoline in Your Car's Gas Tank?).
...Second, it needs a Good (high voltage) "Spark", from the Spark Plugs, at the Correct "Time" (Time = which will Vary, according to the Temperature, Speed, and Load, placed on the Engine, at any given time).
I sure like to use a good ole sayin'...and that sayin' is...
..."Going on a Wild Goose Chase!"...lol.
My best advice to You, is to take care of the "Maintenance" Related "Things", that are to be done, in accordance with, that of Your Car's "Owners Manual", that way, Your Car's Engine will be, so much more Reliable, and Fuel Efficient too.
For most Cars and Trucks, with Gasoline Engines in them, some "Tune Up" Items are...
Change "Spark Plugs", at the Recommended Replacement "Interval", and/or, before they Wear Out, and also, if they appear to be Covered in too many Deposits.
Distributor "Cap and Rotor" and "Spark Plug Wires" must be in Good Shape.
"Air Filter and Fuel Filter/Filters" have to be "Clean", as in, "Not" being dirty or plugged up.
You Car's Battery and Charging System have to be in "Great" Shape as well.
I sure hope, that You happen to have the "Owners Manual" for Your Car, that way, You will be able to Read, and see for Yourself, that, Your Car's Engine, needs to be "Serviced and Maintained" at the Required Time/Mileage/or Kilometer-age "Interval", with new Parts and Pieces, when needed.
Enjoy Reading Your Car's "Owners Manual", and, Good Luck, with getting Your Car running again.
If You like, let me know, How it's going...with Your Car, and maybe let me know, what Your Car, happens to be.
Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
What is the best brand for a 4.3 silverado?
bigcartoonyIIV Greetings bigcartoonyIIV....Thanks for watching, and now, lettuce see about givin' You an Answer (or two), to the Question, that You were askin' about, in Your comment................................Geeze, I might be Placin' myself in some Hot-Water, if I were to be, biased towards "One Specific Brand/Manufacturer or Other", as, most, if not all, of the Reputable, well known, shall we say "Big Name Brands", can usually be Depended-On, as opposed to, some, shall we say, Cheaply-Made-Parts, that sometimes, to me, and, as I like to say, every now and again, and that is, that, some of those, oh, shall I say..."Cheaply Made Automotive Parts..."Belong in a Dollar Store"...lol.....................As long as You try and stay with, like I was sayin', a "Reputable Brand-Name", You, and Your Silverado, should do just fine......................."OEM" (aka, Original Equipment Manufacturer), or, in Your case, "General Motors/Chevrolet" Parts & Pieces, use to be, the, oh, Go-To Place, but, now-ah-days, there are some really good "After-Market" Automotive Parts Manufacturers/Brands, that, as I see it, can equal, or, maybe even better, the "OEM" Part, or Parts in question, just sayin' now (tryin' to stay out of trouble...lol)................I purchase, all kinds of Different, Manufacturers/Brands, of Automotive Parts, depending on, just, which Vehicle it happens to be, along with, which part of that particular Vehicle's System, or Structure, that, it happens to be, being worked on as well.......................The last time, that I actually Replaced, an Ignition Coil, on a 4.3 Liter (262 Cubic Inch?), Chevy V-6 Engine, I Installed a "Standard Motor Products" Ignition Coil (and "They" also have, Regular and Premium Parts available, for some of the Parts, that they Manufacture, and, I recall, Blue Streak, as possibly being, the Premium one), as, I've had some good luck, using quite a few, of their Ignition System related Parts, as well................................Now then, as for me, as it concerns, an Engine's Ignition System, I try to get, if possible, just about any, Ignition Component/Part, having "Brass Terminals", where-ever an Electrical Connection has to be made, as opposed to the Aluminum ones, as, the "Brass" type, as I see it, makes for better Electrical Conductivity, as well as, less of a Corrosion potential as well, but hey, that's just me (You can take it as a grain of salt, if You like...lol).......................Here's a heads-up for Ya.....................Always, and I say ALWAYS..."Make Sure"...that, what-ever Part/Component, that, might, or is, getting Replaced, on any Vehicle, is, to, if possible, "Check", to actually see, if, the Replacement Part..."Exactly Matches", not only, in the physical/size sense, but more-so, the "Electrical Specifications", as in something like "Ohms Readings/Specifications", on an Ignition Coil, as an example..........................Sometimes, an Error can be made, when "Cross-Referencing" an Automotive Part, oh, something like, let's say, an Aftermarket/Brand/Manufacturer's Part, is being Installed, in place of an OEM Part, and, the Parts, Guy or Gal, (hopefully not), messes up, or, maybe, just maybe, the Parts Book/Computer, has an error in its Information (just remember now, a Computer, is Only as Smart, as the Human that Programmed it...!!!...lol), and no, I'm not just makin' this stuff up, and, I'll now, tell You why..............I had an Non-OEM, set of Spark Plugs, that seemed to do, just fine, in a 4.3 Liter, V-6 Engine, and, I did some "Cross-Reference Checking", quite some time later, and..............."Hole-ee-Gwalk-ah-Moe-lee"...those very good, Replacement/Major Brand/Champion, Spark Plugs, that were given to me, by the Parts-Person, were..."2-Heat-Ranges-Higher", then the Original, OEM, Factory-Installed, AC-Delco Spark Plugs...!!!...Yikes...!!! (but, I still like to throw in a lol, just the same!)............That's, pretty much, why, when it comes to something like, replacing Spark Plugs, that, I try to Install, the Originally Supplied, OEM/Factory Installed ones, in order to Avoid, something like that "Wrong"...Spark Plug "Heat-Range", that I was just tellin' You about, and, just like they say..."Buyer...Be-Ware"...!!!...lol...................So then, try and stick with, a "Reputable/Major Brand/Manufacturer's" Ignition Coil, and, "Yes-Sir-ee-Bob", for just a slight amount of Money more, You can, have "One"...with..."Brass Terminals"...on "it"..................Be sure, that, all of the Wiring Connection Points/Terminals, are all "Shine-ee & Clean", to give Your Engine's "Ignition System", the best chance, at be-in, a..."Sparkin' Sensation"...!!!.............Till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
OooooK. Thanks for information. To make sure I understand. Get a brand with (OEM) and brass. in 2010 I installed some of thos fusion 4 prong spark plugs. Lately my truck has been dragging start like the battery is dead. I just bought that battery so I assumed it was a spark issue. Last week i took D-cap off, and When I took the cap off I seen some green corrosion on the tip of the rotor, and some of the prongs in the cap look thinner than others.
I have had this 2001 since 2006, and I never changed any of that stuff. Do you have any other suggestions that I could change on that truck, to get it updated?
bigcartoonyIIV Greetings bigcartoonyIIV....Well, for starters, seeing as how, it's, kinda looking like, You might want to be, Servicing/Maintaining Your very Own..."Pick-Em-Up-Truck" (Silverado, that is), I would strongly suggest, that, You go out and purchase a Manual/Book, for Your "Exact Vehicle", unless, You already have one, that is.............................I have, oh, One might say..."A Small Library"...of Automotive Books, for various Vehicles, and, the Publisher of most of those Books, that I just mentioned, happens to be..."Haynes"............................There sure are a number of Different Publishers out there, and, are an excellent resource as well.......................What I found, is, the "Haynes" Automotive Books, are very well written, and written in such a way, that, just about any Person, that is new to, or, just starting out, tryin' to learn about, just about any Vehicle, that "They" happen to make a Book for, will, as I see, and have experienced for myself, was, in almost no time at all, a rather, shall we say..."Accelerated Learning Curve"...will most likely be established, right from the get-go (aka, pretty much meaning, right from the time, that, a Person gets interested in, and starts reading the Automotive Book in question...!!!)...................................Also, if You happen to have (in Your Custody/Possession...lol), the.."Factory Owners Manual" (sometimes, found "Hide-ing-in-the-Glove-box/compartment, maybe?), that Originally came with Your Vehicle, when "it" was Brand New, then, there is usually, quite a bit, of very Useful Information, as in, proper Vehicle Operation & Maintenance, and maybe even some Factory Part Numbers, for the various Filters and such...!!!................................Be very "Careful", when-ever working on the following...!!!..............When a Vehicles Battery (the common Lead/Acid type), is being "Charged-Up", when-ever the Engine is Running, there is "Explosive Gas"..."Venting", from the Top of the Battery"...!!!...so..."No Smoking or Sparks of Any Kind"...!!!...and...Your..."Fuel Injection System"...all the way, from Your Vehicle's (in the Gas Tank), Fuel Pump, through, all of the Fuel Lines/Tubing/Pipes, and, right on through, to Your 6-Fuel Injectors, are under..."High Fuel/Gasoline Pressure"...in, around the..."60 PSI/Pounds per Square Inch"...Range...give or take a few PSI...!!!...and, this..."High Fuel Pressure"...is "Present/There", even when the Engine Is Not Running, for many Days, and even More...!!!...so, be "Very Careful", and, read-up, on, how to Safely "Bleed-Off" the "High Fuel Pressure"..."BEFORE"...You start Working on the "Fuel Injection System & all related Parts...!!!...and..."Wear Safety Glasses"...and...have a "Fire Extinguisher", just in case (and, I hope, "it" Doesn't have to be Used!)........................................................I will now...wind-er-up...thus-lee............................For any Engine, in a Vehicle, I try to Use, the "Original/Factory Installed Spark Plugs", and in the case of a Chevy/GMC Engine, I try to get the "Exact, AC-Delco Spark Plugs", that were Originally Installed by the Factory (if I'm able to "Get Them", that is?), and, especially, if the Engine remains Stock/No Modifications, and, the Vehicle, is just being used as a Daily Driver/Grocery Getter..................................................Oh, and, if the Spark Plug's..."Electrodes"...are..."Gap-able"...make sure, that, the Spark Plug.."Gap" (Between the 2 Electrodes), is..."Set-to"...the..."Specified Gap"...for Your..."Exact Engine"...!!!................................Some years ago, I was askin' a Parts Person, about Installing, some Platinum Spark Plugs, in an Older Chevy 350 Cubic Inch V-8 that I had, and He "Warned" me, not to do so...Why You ask...???...well, He then went on to say, that, a few Guys, that Installed those Platinum Spark Plugs in Their V-8 Engines, were having some Engine Damage, after Installing those Platinum Spark Plugs, so, I heeded His Warning, and, got some "Original, Factory Installed, Correct Part designated, AC-Delco Spark Plugs, and, maybe, it was that "Warning", that I got, way back then, that, might very well be, the Reason, that I try to get a hold of, and Install, the "Factory Original Ones", and look Ma..."No Engine Damage" at all...lol........................................Those Brass Terminals, that I mentioned, in the last comment/reply to You, are "What I really like to See", on something like, the, "Distributor Cap's Terminals" (on the Outside and Inside, of the Distributor Cap)...&...on the "Rotor Tip" as well, seeing as how, those poor ole, Distributor Cap "Terminals (inside) & the Rotor's Tip" as well, have to try, and "Stand Up To", all of that, Very "High Secondary Voltage", that Arcs/Flashes"..."Between"...the..."Rotors Tip"...and..."All 6, Internal, Distributor Terminals"..."Yikes"...!!!...............Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, when in doubt, just stay with the "Factory/Original Parts", well, unless You happen to know for sure, that, any of the "After-Market Parts", either..."Meet, or Exceed"...the "Performance Level & Longevity", as Compared to the good ole "Originals", just sayin' now (as there are lots, did I say LOTS, of very Impressive, Aftermarket Parts Manufacturers/Suppliers World-Wide...!!!)................................As for, was it Your Engine's "Cranking Speed Too Slow"...???.........Well, if it is, there are a number of "Things", that can cause such a thing......................Might be a Wiring Connection?...Starter Switch?...Starter Motor getting tired?...Battery, Not being Charged Enough, by the (Electrical) Charging system?...and...might even be a "Drain on the Battery", when the Engine "Is-Not Running", and a good Visual example, would be, something like, the Vehicle's Interior "Dome Light", being left on, over-night, and, the resulting...Drained Down Battery, and, did You perhaps, recently, add a Sound System, or, Other "Electrical", Add-On Device, to Your Pick-Em-Up-Truck, by chance...??? (and, those are just a few Things, at that...!!!...oh my)............................ Oh yeah, next time, You happen to have Your Distributor Cap, off of the Distributor Body/Housing, have a "Close Look", at the "Carbon Button", that's located on the "Inside", of Your Distributor Cap, in the Center of it, and, "See", if it's "Holding Up" ok...as...up until 1995, there-abouts, that there "Carbon Button" (back then), "Wore Out Way Too Fast", and, the Design/Size of "it", was (use your own bad word here), yes, "it" really was...!!!...so, keep a real close eye, on the shall we say..."Wear Rate"...of that Carbon Button...cuz..."if"..."it"..gets "Too Short"...the Engine will Run like (please, feel free, to use Your own cuss-word here...!!!)...lol.....So then...get hold of one of those "Automotive Books", and, "Start Reading", and, before You know it, You'll be a Pro, in almost no time at all...maybe?...but hey, You'll never know, if You don't try...right...???...................Well, that's about it for now.............If You happen to have any further questions or concerns at all, just give me a shout, in the form of, a comment/question or two, and, I'll try-n-help You out, if possible............Till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks. I will do all of the following, and keep you updated.
mine have oil in it n my c@ crânks but doesn't st@rt is that å problem?
Greetings...Sergio Bullitt.............Thanks for watching.............If the Oil that You saw, was "inside" the distributor "Cap", then, that's not so good at all, and, I'm thinkin', that, that Oil, is probably rising up, through, the inside of the distributor's Body, where the (distributor) Shaft, is spinning inside of it...............Might be a Bad/Faulty "Seal", in the distributor's Body, that's leaking too much, or, as a wild guess, maybe, Your PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve, or Hose/System, is Plugged-Up, and as a result of that, there might be too much Pressure, that's building-up, "inside", of the engine's Crankcase/Oil Pan area, when-ever the engine is running................Do all of the Terminals, "inside" of the distributor Cap, as well as, the (metal) "Tip", of the (spinning) Rotor, look to be, in Good Shape...???...or, are they Worn/Eroded (by high voltage electricity), quite badly...???..................The "inside" of a distributor "Cap", should be "Clean and Dry", so, the High Voltage, that's coming from the ignition coil, will make its way (jumping), from the (spinning) Rotor's "Tip", to the "Correct" Terminal, that's inside of the distributor Cap..............Your, cranking, but "No Start" engine, might be Ignition System related, or, maybe, Fuel System related, and on a bad day, maybe both at the very same time, and I hope not..............If You can let me know, what Your Vehicle's..."Year...Make...and...Model"...is, as well as, the..."Engine Size, and Number of Cylinders"...then, I will probably be able to help You out, much more, once I actually know, what I really need to know, otherwise, I'll just be going on, another one of my..."Wild Goose Chases"...lol.......and till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow my car is a 93 toyota corrolla dx 1.6 is it true that the distributor does not break down when u driving the car? i sprayed starting fluid in one of the holes on the filter box but it didnt start the. n i was driving my car on the highway when it die i already replace the spark plugs n wires and distributor cap n igniter and still nothing i unscrewed the bolt that is on the fuel coils to c if i have gas running n i soon i loose the bolt the gas was spraying so i know the fuel pump works next i removed 1 spark plug to c the spark n nothing no spark. so im guessing the distributor or timing belt what u do think
RockysRoadshow thank you for taking the time to reply my questions i appreciate it
Greetings...Sergio Bullitt.............When You tested, the Removed spark plug, for "Spark", did You have the Screw-Threaded end of the spark plug, touching a Metal part, on the Engine...???...cuz, if not, then, probably, No Spark will be seen...............For a Fuel Injected Engine, like Yours appears to be, then, just because You saw some Gasoline Spraying, doesn't really tell us, that, the "Fuel Pressure" is High enough, and, is with-in, Toyota's "Specifications", for Your "Exact" engine..........About the only way, to tell, if the Fuel Pressure is With-in Specifications, is to do a Fuel Pressure Test, with a Fuel Pressure testing "Gauge", and do the Test, the Correct way, that Toyota Recommends, on how to do it (with engine not running, and probably, with the engine running as well, maybe).....Fuel Pressure, can get too Low, if, something as simple as, a Fuel "Filter", becomes too "Plugged-Up", or, the Fuel Pump (that's probably hiding, inside of the gas tank), is getting kinda Weak, and is not able, to provide that rather High Fuel Pressure consistently............Some Fuel Pressures, at the Fuel Pump, might be as high as, about 100 PSI/Pounds per Square Inch...!!!...and, there's probably a Fuel Pressure "Regulator", somewhere in Your Toyota, that will reduce that Fuel Pressure, to, maybe, about 43 PSI maybe...???..........That Fuel Pressure is Dangerous...!!!...and can Destroy a Person's Eyes...!!!...so be sure to be Wearing Safety Glasses/Goggles, and have a Fire Extinguisher with-in Reach...............It would be a good idea, to have Your Vehicle's On-Board Computer "Checked", for any Trouble Codes, that might be Stored in its Memory, cuz, if there is, then, that will help out, quite a bit..............If Your Engine, has a Rubber-like Timing Belt on it, then, there is usually a "Recommended", Mileage or Kilometer-age "Replacement" interval, for Your Exact Engine, so, see if You can find that out, and if its Time, to Replace it, then do so, cuz, sometimes if the Timing Belt Breaks, and depending on the design of the Engine, then, some of those Engine Designs, can cause Pistons, to Smash-into the Valves, and then, that particular design of Engine, will get Destroyed...!!!...and probably can't be fixed at all, quite possibly...............Most Vehicle Ignition Systems, involve lots of things, like, the Battery (fully charged up?), the Ignition Switch (Key type?), all of the Wiring and Connection Points, the Module, the Ignition Coil, etc..............You might be able to get Your "Ignition Control Module" (inside of Your distributor?), Tested for "FREE", at some of the Automotive Parts Stores, so maybe, make a few Phone Calls, and ask the People that work there, if they will, for FREE, Test Your Ignition Control Module, and maybe, they might also Test Your "Ignition Coil", for Free as well, perhaps................Who knows, They might, even be able to, Test Your Whole Distributor maybe...???...just ask Them..............If You are really getting "No Spark" at all, then, it might be something, as simple as, a Bad wiring Connection, or a Blown Fuse perhaps, so, Check all of Your Toyota's "Fuses", to make sure, that they are not causing, Your No Spark problem...............Have a look at some of the Videos, that I have on my UA-cam Channel...RockysRoadshow...and, there should be a few of them, such as, how to test an Ignition Coil (probably not the same as Yours is, but, it should be tested, in about the same way).................So then, Check all wiring Connections and Fuses, and maybe, have Your Toyota's Fuel Pressure Tested as well, just to make sure, once You know, that, You are actually getting a Good Strong Spark, at the spark plugs, once again...............Good Luck, and........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
YOU HAVE THE ANSWER IN YOUR QUESTION,
n nothing no spark,
yes distributors can break..coils too.
this didnt need to take up 15 minutes of my life.
Jacob Smurthwaite Greetings Jacob Smurthwaite....Thanks for watching.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Jacob Smurthwaite And you didn't have to watch it.
It's so funny that the spark plug wires are known to be hard to put in the right order and still manufacturers refuses to mark them. It would be pretty easy to just stamp a number on the wire and the corresponding terminal.
Greetings...He Ka..................Thanks for watching..............."News Flash"...!!!...lol...and now, here's that News.................I think, that I recall seeing a "Set" of spark plug "Wires", having the "Numbers" (1...2...3...4...5...and...6) "Printed" on, a "Factory" installed, Set of spark Plug "Wires" (when the vehicle was New), that were on a (General Motors) Mid 1990's, "Chevy" (aka, Chevrolet) Astro Mini-Van, that had a 4.3 Liter (262 cubic inch), V-6 Engine in it...................Even though the spark plug "Wires" were "Numbered", that, in itself, will only help out, just a little bit...say what...???...................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...for starters, the Number "1" Cylinder's, spark plug "Wire", has to be Connected to the Distributor Cap's Number "1"..."Terminal"...and also, the "Tip" of the Rotor, should be Pointing to/Lining up, with that Number "1" Terminal on the distributor Cap, as well, when the Crankshaft's, Number 1-Cylinder's Piston, is at TDC/Top Dead Center, and the "Groove/Marking", on the Harmonic Balancer (or call it Damper if You like), is lining up with the "0/Zero" marking, on the, shall we say, Degree (markings) Tab, or whatever it is, that indicates 0/Zero Degrees, on the Engine Block, when the Engine's Number "1" Cylinder's...Piston, is at TDC/Top Dead Center, while also, being, just at the start of the Power Stroke (intake and exhaust Valves Closed...hopefully)...................Then, there's the "Firing Order" of that "Exact" Engine, as well as, the "Direction", that the "Rotor" (that's hiding inside the distributor Cap...lol) Spins/Turns (Clockwise, or Counter-Clockwise...???), has to be taken into consideration as well....................Then, a Person has to know, the "Cylinder Numbering" for that "Exact" Engine................Time to Relax now...lol...cuz, if a Person, only wanted to Replace a Set of Old spark Plug "Wires", with a Set of New ones, on an Engine, that was running reasonably well, then, all it takes, is, to "Change"..."ONLY"..."1" spark plug "Wire" at a time, that way, the "High Voltage", will be going to the "Correct" Spark Plug, and hopefully, at the Right Time (pretty much meaning, that, the Ignition Timing was previously, Set Properly, to begin with)...................Here's what I've been doing, oh, for a few years now...................Before I remove any spark plug Wire, from a Spark Plug, or, the Distributor Cap's Terminals, I grab a roll of Masking Tape (about 3/4 Inches wide), and rip off a piece, oh, about 2 and 1/2 inches Long, and wrap each piece of Masking Tape, around each of the spark plug Wires, and leave, what appears to be, a "Flag" (when the 2 Sticky sides of the masking tape get Stuck together), and place these "Flags", on the spark plug Wires, reasonably Close, to the Distributor Cap.....then, I use a Felt Pen/Marker/Sharpie, to Write the Engine's Cylinder Number, on each of the masking tape "Flags".................Also, the Number "1" (cylinder), can be printed, with a Felt Pen, nice-n-Close, to the Number "1"..."Terminal", on the distributor Cap, and, maybe also, Mark an Arrow, to show the Direction, that the Rotor Spins, on Top of the Distributor Cap, to make things even easier (the Color of the Felt Pen, has to be in Contrast to/be Opposite of, the Color of the Distributor Cap, or, You'll probably have quite the problem seeing it...Yikes...!!!...lol...and also, some Folks are sayin', that, some of the Felt Pens out there, might Conduct High Voltage Electricity...maybe...???...might not be so good, just so You are aware).........................I sure do find, that, those Masking Tape, Numbered "Flags", that I've been using, really Do, Help out lots, did I say LOTS...lol (indeed, they sure do)..................So then, if You care to, just make some of those Cylinder Numbered...Masking Tape..."Flags"...for Your Engine's spark plug Wires...Enjoy...and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
YOU DONT NEED MARKS.
See your firing order, 1342, so you connect r with this order. The number one can be anywhere you just have to fallow the order. otherwise engine will not start.
Greetings...Maxengines Tech..........Thanks for watching...........Well...He Ka...(the Person, that started this Post), Did Not mention, just what Engine, that, He or She had, and, it looks like, You were assuming, that, "it" was a "4-Cylinder" Engine...??? (interesting that).............Also, if a Person, just installed, all of the spark plug "Wires", as You were saying, on a 4-Cylinder Engine, in that, 1342 Firing Order, providing that, it is "Correct", for the "Exact" Engine in question, then, what about having, the Number "1" Cylinder's Piston, being on its "Power Stroke" (firing stroke), while being at, TDC/Top Dead Center, and, is also, being indicated, on the Harmonic Balancer's, TDC/Top Dead Center's, Line/Marking, lining up with, the timing Tab, or what-ever it just might be, as well...???...and also, which "Terminal" that's on the inside of the Distributor Cap, is that "Rotor", actually "Lining Up with"...???...as well as, what "Direction", is that "Rotor" Turning/Spinning, is it "Clock-wise"...or..."Anti-Clock-wise" (aka, counter-clock-wise)...???...and, if a Person, gets any "1" of those things above, Wrong, then, I be thinkin', that, that poor ole Engine, would probably be doing, some (ignition related) "Firing", of the Spark Plugs, at the "Wrong Time", and probably be Hearing..."Pop"..."Bang"..."Cough"...kinda Sounds, and an Engine, that was surely, "Not Running Properly", at all...!!!..............In order to Avoid, any of those (above) Problems, I usually tell People, to just "Change"..."One Spark Plug, and/or, One spark plug Wire", at a time, that way, there's almost no way, to Mess-it-up, as I see it, that is...........Here's a Challenge for You..........Let's have a Race, shall we...........Let's assume, that, there is a V-8 Engine, that had, all of the spark plug "Wires", Removed from, the distributor Cap's Terminals, on that particular Engine, and, both You and I, have to, install a Set of New spark plug "Wires", on that Engine (not including, the ignition coil, to the distributor Cap, high tension Lead/Wire, if applicable, cuz, that's just too easy, to install, and get wrong).............Now then, all You have, is an Octopus (8 spark plug "Wires"...lol), and, I have, all of my, 8 spark plug "Wires", with the Cylinder Numbers on each of them, as well as, the distributor Cap Terminals (on top), have the cylinder Numbers, near each of those Terminals, as well as, the Cylinder Numbers, showing near, where each spark plug is located..............Oh, and also, the Engine, has the Number "1" Cylinder's Piston, Set at, TDC/Top Dead Center, on its, Power/Firing Stroke, just so You know (to make things easier, for the both of us, hopefully)...............Now, the Starting Gun goes "Bang"...!!!...and the Race begins..............Well, it only took me a few Minutes, and I was all done, and, Each and Every spark plug "Wire", was "Exactly" where, it should be installed, and, I Start the Engine, and, "It", is Running really good-n-smooth...and...I look over, to see what You are doing, and I see, that, You are still, trying to figure out, which way/direction...???...that the "Rotor" (that's inside of the distributor cap), should be spinning/turning...???...and, You still don't have any spark plug "Wires" on the Engine yet...!!!...lol...........Come to think of it, there was a Lady, that Posted, under one of my UA-cam videos, a while ago, that She, shall we say, Painted-on, Different "Colors", of "Nail Polish", to ensure that, each of the spark plug "Wires", got Connected onto, the "Correct", distributor cap Terminals, and probably, the Correct spark plugs as well, maybe, as She didn't go into too much detail, as I recall, and yes, that is One Smart Lady, alright............So, please, maybe take a closer look, at some of the different Ignition Systems, in a little more detail, kinda like, I have done over the years, somewhat, that way, You probably, won't, just be saying, to "Only Use the Firing Order", all by itself anymore, I hope, and..........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
You got served Maxengines Tech
I dont answer TO COPY PASTE text.
But surely you dont need to race, just understand what fire ordering really is.Theory is a beginning, but not enought, neither to a real start.-...
that cap is off a magnum 318
Thumbs down. I didnt see a continuity tester used to check for shorts. No visual test will help you there.
A continuity test on a cap or rotor is not practical. A defect such as a crack or carbon tracking makes an electrical path for extremely high voltage, but not for the low voltage powering testers and ohm meters. You would still get an infinite reading, no light or beep depending on the type of tester you're using.
journeyquest1 Greetings journeyquest1....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/opinion as well.........................................It appears that, what..."Dallas Cheked" (as per comment)...is quite accurate, and, is the "Method" that I have used, for many, many years now..........................................................But, like just about anything that I work on, I'm finding, that there is usually, an..."Exception for Every Rule"....and I try to make a point of..."Never Ruling Anything Out"...as, at times, I do Find, some pretty Strange Things, when I least expect "It"...................................................So then, here's "One" for Ya...............A number of years ago, a Friend of mine phoned me up, and was telling me, about a "Dead Electrical Circuit", in his Car (an older Subaru, if I recall correctly), so, I told him to drive it over, and that I'd have a look at it..................................................Let's see now (please hold...as my memory archives are processing at the moment)...........ah yes, as I recall, He was right about that "Dead Electrical Circuit" alright, so, as I remember, the "Fuse Block" (Panel?), was located in the engine compartment, and I had a Look-See at the..."Buss-Type"...of..."Fuses" (the old "Buss" type of automotive Fuse, was the kind, that was cylindrically shaped, about 1/4 Inch in Diameter, made out of Glass, and had a Metal Cap on each end, and the Filament-Like Fuse Element, was easily seen through the Glass tube, and the lengths can vary, as well as the Amperage-rating, and this one, was about "1" Inch long, give or take a bit).......................................................So, as I'm looking at that "Row" of Buss Fuses, all of their, shall we say "Filaments", looked to be "Intact" (when one of these type of Fuses..."Blows"...its "Filament", well, kinda looks like it "Self Destructs", and usually shows its "Filament"..."Broken/Melted"...in its middle section, which in turn, makes for "No-Connection!")...............................................Oh, what to do...............I know, I'll get out my Volt-Meter, and see if one end of that there Buss Fuse (while still in the Fuse Block), is getting battery voltage at all (not sure if the ignition key had to be on, but if need be, "It" was...lol)...............................................Well.........."One End"...of that "Buss-type-Fuse"..."Was Getting"...that nominal 12 Volts alright...but...the..."Other End of that Fuse"...was showing..."Zero Volts"...although the "Fuse's Filament", looked (Visually), to be..."100% Good"...!!!....................................................So............I remove that there..."Buss Fuse"...crank my Multi-meter to the "Ohm's Position", connect the Multi-meter's test leads to each end of the Fuse, and look Ma..."Zero Ohms"...!!!..............."Wowsers"...kinda looks like, that there..."Buss Fuse"..."Blew", just inside the "Metal Cap" (one on each end, remember?), where "It"..."Could Not Be Seen" (Visually, that is)...!!!.................................Hey, this scenario, would have been a great place, for You to Use Your "Continuity Tester" (if it happened to be Self Powered, when testing the Fuse, all by its lonesome)........................................................You could use an "Ohm Meter", to Test the "Resistance" of the "Carbon Button", and each of the Distributor Caps "Terminals", if You cared to do so, along with the Rotor as well, maybe......................................................If, for instance, we are now talking about, something like a "General Motors"...H.E.I. (High Energy Ignition) Distributor "Cap", that has the "Ignition Coil"..."Mounted In/On the Top of It"...then, there is usually a..."Carbon Button"...that by all means...should have..."Its Resistance"..."Checked"...just to make sure (if You do so, please Check the Specifications, for that particular Distributor Cap's, Carbon Button's, Ohm's Specification), and, the resulting "Continuity", or lack there-of, should show up...................................................In closing, "Lots of Moisture" (aka, might be Condensation), Inside a "Brand New" Distributor Cap, will usually, at certain times, render "It", to the point of being "Absolutely Useless", which will usually result in a "No Start" (of the engine), probably, due to all of that there..."Spark-Scattering"...goin' on, inside the Distributor Cap..............................................I'm thinkin', that, a Lighter Colored Distributor Cap & Rotor, would make things like "Cracks"...and..."Carbon Tracking"...much easier to see, as opposed to a Dark Colored example there-of, just sayin'..............................................I'll end with, what I think, may just be, one of those ole sayings, and that saying is....................."There's a Time and Place for Everything"........................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Dallas Cheked Greetings Dallas Cheked....Thanks for watching, and for Your "Automotive Wisdom" as well...........................................Sure sounds to me, that, just like I did in the past, was that You probably had Your fair share of..."Scrape-ing"...some of that..."Crusty-Like-Corrosion"...from the Distributor Cap's..."Internal-Aluminum-Terminals"....with something along the lines of a..."Plain-Tipped-Screwdriver"...just because...!!!...lol...................................."Those were the days my Friend"................But now...We have Distributor Cap..."Terminals"...and..."Rotor Blades"...made out of..."Brass"...which it appears, that, those little Critters, known as ..."Electrons"...have become quite fond of, and, at not all that much, of an increased cost, over that..."Crusty-Dusty-Aluminum-Stuff"...lol................................................Hmmmmmmm...do they, or did they, call Aluminum............."Aluminium"...in the U.K. (United Kingdom) perhaps...???...well, for some reason or other, that's what I may have heard in the past, just sayin'................................................Oh, and, just like Spark Plug..."Gaps"...there is also the..."Gap" (aka, Distance), between the..."Tip of the Rotor"...and..."Each of the Distributor Cap's Internal/Perimeter Terminals"..that for the most part, usually don't get much Attention.................but, then again, we can, and do see, the..."Wear Factor"...that is..."Created"...by, all of that..."High Voltage Arcing"...Goin' -On..."Between"...the previously mentioned, shall we call them..."Arcing Paths"...perhaps?..................................................I'll end with, a rather good one, and that good one is..........."Out of Sight...Out of Mind"...!!!...lol.............................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Talk too much mate! Get to the point quick damn!
Greetings...Maria De Lourdes Garcia De La Hidalga..........Thanks for watching..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Blah, blah, blah! Like watching paint dry!