Engine Quick Tip: Cap & Rotor Basics
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Distributor cap and rotor basics. How changing your cap and rotor can save you money! Why you need to replace these parts!
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Due to factors beyond the control of Midwest Garage, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Midwest Garage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Midwest Garage recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Midwest Garage, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Midwest Garage.
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Caps and rotors used to have copper or brass contacts. Aluminum is trash.
Can a bad cap and rotor on my sbc be the reason of crank no start?
I am wondering the same thing. I am certainly going to take a look at mine now. (94 chevy g20 van)
The aluminum contacts are the problem. Switch to brass and it won't ever corrode and can last for several years.
My truck has had the same cap and rotor for at least ten years lmao it just started having problems
I have a 2004 ZR5 at 155k with original cap and rotor but Im switching it out today. Also going to do spider injectors as well. I cant see doing cap/rotor every year, but maybe in colder climates? Im in Florida. Also doing fuel pump. Trying to stay ahead of the game! Thanks for video
My gas mileage on my 1997 has been going down steadily. I just changed the rotor and cap and wires after 113,000 miles after a cylinder misfire code. Yes, inside pins were all corroded. Laying on top of the engine to do it is a PAIN in the butt though. Now that I've done it once I know what I'm doing.
I change my cap and rotor bough some at autozone now my c1500 5.7 is rough at idle and gets misfires is it possible to install the rotors incorrectly or have a faulty one
The roter only fits 1 way. But ive seen new caps cross fire to the wrong cylinder and not even work right. it is posable the new cap is bad .
I do not get even 10000 miles, so there must be a nother issue? Just saying.
Change every year? Must be that great American quality.
Meh, it's cheap and easy preventative maintenance so why not? You can get a billet style that lasts a lot longer if you wanna shell out the money for it. Definitely worth it in my opinion though. Thanks for the comment!
i am from michigan...detroit...and the only store that had a brass terminal cap was Advance Auto..with rotor $52.00....not happy with inflation but i am more confident with the brass.....sad the world we live in....
Can that cause misfire on one cilinder
yes
Thank you so much for this video! It helped me change my distributor cap and rotor. After changing it, it started right up!
Awesome! Glad this helped!
What’s are symptoms of a worn cap and rotor ? Engine feels lethargic
Just fixed my truck it was having misfire issue code change the cap and rotor like you suggested runs great again no more code
Awesome to hear, glad I could help!
@@MidwestGarage I didn't know you had to change them that often lol mine is on its second cap at 215k miles lol maybe thats why this truck has always had a misfire
Haha! That could most definitely be the issue man, simple fix at least!
@@MidwestGarage yeah my fuel pump is going out whinning like crazy you can here it about 200 ft away from the blazer lol bought new fuel pump and sending unit, plugs, wires, cap and rotor so it should fell a lot better now
Mine was the P0300 random misfire code. I'd put a new cap on. It was good for awhile then the code popped up again. Finally after changing the cap & rotor again I noticed the rotor had lateral(side to side) play. Basically the bushing or bearing that keeps the distributor shaft spinning straight went bad and the rotor was actually hitting the terminals on the cap. Replaced the distributor,cap & rotor cleared the code. Hasn't run this good in a while. And I replaced my heater switch because it was bad and causing a vacuum leak.
Super video 👌👍greetings from Austria 🙋🏼♂️
I installed my distributor with new cap rotor and a new cam sensor and it starts now but runs badly... i still get the P1345 code... could i have installed distributor wrong? it has a miss...but i am not sure my 4.3 2001 blazer would run at all if distributor was put back wrong...anyone Know? also when replacing cam sensor in distrib do you have to use a scan tool with relearn feature or not??? i do not own one...any help from someone that knows the answers to my questions is greatly appreciated..thax
What’s the update on your code and cam resetting?
I have a 98 gmc vortex 5.7 and I literally have to change the cap and rotor every 4 to 5 thousand miles, why is that?
There are two drain hole on the distributor floor under the rotor. The hole have screens in them. Poke out the screens because they get clogged and moisture has no place to drip out.
@@stevecarlson6462interesting
If you have a worn out distributor spend the extra money for the billet style. That plastic crap that GM put on these gives a ton of problems. Good video as the cap and rotors are known to be problem children as well.
What is a "billet" style? How do you tell the difference?
The stock GM distrubutor is made of plastic. The Billet style is shiny metal. Doesn't wear out prematurly.
Very good tip! Thanks!
@@MidwestGarage I just purchased a new billet distributor complete, with cap, rotor, and plugs for less than $40.00 online. I couldn't get cap , rotor and plugs at my local parts store for that price.
@@shawnevans1585 Nice! That's a hell of a good deal there. I'll definitely have to grab one of these next time I change mine out!
Vid SUCKS. really doesn't tell you anything