Threadlocker Removal
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- In the last episode, we talked about thread locker 101. The different types of compounds, how to apply it and when to use the different types.
If you haven't watch that episode check it out here: • Threadlocker 101
Following up, we are now going over threadlocker removal. How to remove screws and fasteners that have been secured with thread locking compound. Some can be more difficult than others but using the techniques shown in this video you shouldn't have any issues. Thanks for watching!
Send your questions to theqa@gunsandtactics.com
Be sure to check out our website for more. www.gunsandtac...
Social Links:
- Instagram: bit.ly/3oelbin
- Facebook: bit.ly/2T9lP2c
- Twitter: bit.ly/34bAMXE
- Patreon: / gunsandtactics
- Note for UA-cam: The portions of this video featuring the firing of a firearm were conducted at a specified range facility in a controlled, safe environment under the direction of instructors or range safety officers. Any assembly or disassembly is for the purposes of showing safe and proper repair or maintenance. ALL OF OUR CONTENT IS IN COMPLIANCE WITH YOUR AD CERTIFICATION POLICY.
- The views and opinions expressed in this video are solely those of the original authors and contributors. These views and opinions do not necessarily represent those of Guns & Tactics, the administrative staff, and/or any/all contributors to this site.
- Affiliate Disclaimer: Guns and Tactics is reader/viewer supported. This post may contain affiliate links and we may earn a small commission when you click on the links at no additional cost to you. As an Amazon Affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases.
I used a hair dryer on high heat, within a few seconds removed a compensator mounted with Red gel Loctite. Thanks for the advice.
Nice , thanks for the great and needed info.
That’s crazy a hairdryer worked considering how hot a muzzle device can get
Really? Ill give that a try.
Bruh I put a motorcycle part on the stove and mf is still GLUEDSHUT😂🥲🥲
The soldering iron tip is absolutely genius. Very pinpointed heat that did no damage to my FDE finish on the slide of my FN509. 60 seconds and got it loosened enough for the T10 torx driver to break the hold. This was on blue loctite. BRILLIANT!!! Thanks for saving me a trip to the gunsmith!!!
The tried and true method I use is a kettle pot of boiling water poured on to it. Never had anything not come unstuck after doing that. The other good news is that since it's very hot water it'll evaporate very quickly from the metal but I use a can of compressed air to blow out any collected water.
The soldering iron is all you need. His tactics were perfectly fine, but... if you are unsure of the glue used, or what you may damage from too much heat, the soldering iron is the best over all tool to use. Also, like he is using, the shortest driver you can get is the best. His Snap On T Handle is a dandy one to carry.
Good stuff as always. It's these tips and information that can make or break an afternoon of working on guns.
Soldering pencil. clever.
Kano kroil worked like a charm on my cz threaded barrel. Accidentally put a little too much blue locktight on the thread protector and it wouldn’t budge. Just put some Kroil on it and gave it 5 mins, then put a rubber hose around the thread protector and crescent wrench the mother affer!
Great breakdown, love that you showed the use of a soft jaw vice. Bob Smith Un-Cure runs about $6.00 a small tube as shown. Also when setting a driver bit to test a screw to see how difficult it will be to remove, rap the driver with a soft mallet, it seats the bit into the screw and helps loosen things up. I loved that solder iron tip, kudos.
Just used the Blue propane tank BernzOmatic torch to remove a BCM gas block. Only took 1 and a half minutes of heat. Thanks!!!
Great info! Yesterday I stripped out the tiny hex screw on the rear sight of my Walther .22 and I've been trying to figure out how to remove it. The solder pen tip sounds like it might do the trick.
One solution I've found is hex head screwgun bits. Once tapped deeply into the screw head with a hammer, a power drill can extract screws that will bend an Allen wrench. For this purpose, I recommend the Boxer BX100 kit.
Yes seating the bit is very important indeed. For quality bits also check our wera new enhanced hex, really impressed
Very good video. This is what makes the internet useful. This is what put us into the information age. I've paid for information that couldn't compare to the quality and usefulness of this video. Well done.
Thank you I really appreciate that
Thank you so much for this video, Guns & Tactics. Exactly as Dave Timm said, the Bob Smith Industries un-cure compound works very well on medium strength compounds and some high strength compounds but on heavily applied high strength, red threadlocker the small butane torch worked extremely well. Greatly appreciated, Dave!
I bought a mid priced heat gun off Amazon and that has worked great removing red loctite and loosening a barrel nut on a Rock River Rifle.
Shoutout to Magpul for normalizing putting an absurd amount of LockTight on their parts by default; really appreciate the amount of handguards I've had to throw away because I forgot to remove the glue off of one screw.
Same, rifle stock is just a bit loose and I can't tighten it at all now.
I hate in other videos when people just say... use “Loctite”... without saying what type....ugh.
Don’t assume people know what you are talking about.
Anyway... GOOD video!!
Alan T check out our threadlocker 101 video too
That's because we never needed color coded marketing scams.
Basic rule of thumb.
Blue for everything, red if you never plan on removing it.
purple/green/pink/yellow all pansy marketing BS
Thorough, educational and professional! Thanks!
OMGGGG I FINALLLLYYY FOUND THE VIDEO. GOODNESSS GRACIOUS
This is one of the best channels on youtube. I learn so much from your channel, man!
Thank you for the kind words, really appreciated
Thank You so much. My mechanic friend said you will never get that screw out from my shotgun stock.
I used a blue thread locker on my Boyd laminate thumbhole stock.
It has a Allen screw and I'm concerned about stripping it halfway.
This soldering tip idea saved me a bunch of headaches. I had angry bear irons on my p365 and my dumbass put blue locktite on a 1/16 hex screw before I went to the range and adjust the irons. Broke 5 hex tips until I came across this video.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching
Simple solution. Just use top coat nail polish in gel form. It holds enough small bolts so they dont move at all and you can break away that bolt without damaging anything.
I had an Airsoft gun I recently bought and the manufacturer put too much thread locker on the screw, thanks for the video.
Thank you I purchased a used Optik and apparently they must have used red and you are soldering iron idea is a great idea I will be using it
Love the soldering idea
best diy videos for gunsmithing here in youtube, thanks a lot for the help guys!
Thank you
Acetone will break a super glue bond and may work on threadlocker as well. A hand operated impact wrench is also very effective in breaking a locked bond...use with caution.
Nice tips, I will use them on my motorcycle, I have a stubborn bolt with blue threadlocker have not been able to remove. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for this video! I have been trying to unscrew a bolt for the seatbelt assembly in my car. It seems that the bolt is threadlocked. I'm going to try the compound and see if it helps! The bolt is really close to the carpet so I'm not sure if using the little soldiering gun would be safe.
Thread locker is used a lot in the auto world. Some makers are really good about marking the top of the bolt or screw with paint as a reminder.
And so you need to show us how to remove a part that is aluminum which was threaded into plastic using medium grade locktite.
The Hatsan manufacture thought it was smart to loctite the aluminum buffer tube into the SDX 4110 AR-platform's lower receiver which is a polymer.
Was NO need for loctite since there is a steel sling attachment that goes between the castle nut and lower receiver whereby the sling attachment is notched to fit the underside grove of the buffer tube, and the sling attachment has a hole that lines up with a dowel pin on the back of the lower receiver which prevents everything from being able to rotate. Then the castle nut is tightened down to it which certainly means the buffer tube is NOT going to come lose and therefore is overkill and even stupid to loctite the buffer tube's threads.
If we try unthreading the buffer tube, there is a likely situation of the threads being pealed out of the polymer receiver
Another thing I've done is give the fastener a few sharp raps (not blows) through the back of the inserted bit. Part is to be solidly secured on a hard non-marring surface. A rubber service mat will absorb some of the shock lessening the effect. Thats not want we want. Think like jarring your teeth vs bumping into the arm of a couch. :-)
I have used blue loctite on howa action screw and torqued them more than it needed. If I unscrew them, should I clean the loctite or can I just apply more and torque them again. What is the best way to clean blue 243 or 242 loctite on action screw.
Good video and good advice 👍. I have a microtech with proprietary screws and it is my understanding they use 272 on their screws. This is the first video I seen from Guns &Tactics and I subscribed 👍
Thanks!
I hear break cleaner will work well?
Very great and quality video ! Thank you man.
Thanks, glad you liked it
Excellent. Exactly what I needed.
Perfect glad you liked it
Nice tutorial, great for RC cars too !
How about a buffer tube castle nut on an AR15 lower where blue Loctite was used? I have an electric hot air gun.
Would love to know which torx screwdriver-wrench tool you are using. Half the battle is having good quality tools.
If you need to remove any flavor of Loctite get a can of CRC Brakleen (with the red labels) and spray it on so it can run into the threads. Let it soak about an hour and the part will come loose easily. That stuff literally dissolves the Loctite.
Tip of the small blue flame is the hottest part of it just an FYI. Great video!
how less hot is the center from the tip percentage wise?
The reason I’m here is because I used 243 blue loctite on my balisong pivot screws and went to maintenance it and forgot that loctite has a strong bond and ended up stripping both screws so that’s why I’m here
Great video Dave. Can you go over Vibratite VC3 and its applications in a future video?
Thanks! I’ll add it to the list.
I'll have to give soldering pen a try. I tried a hair dryer on high heat and that didn't work.
Got a stubborn stripped hex/torx screw on a p320 axg frame.
Thanks for the helpful info.
Happy you found it helpful
Amazing video.
What about removing rock set ?
Nitro Solvent and a Q-tip. keep applying and give it about 3 minutes.
Someone used jb weld in my 8.8 rear diff swap and ill need to shortened so i got a dremel grinder and will throw into a a cnc to drill and retap those threads
If only the gun makers back in the 50's, 60's, 70's, and 80's had realized that someday someone might want to remove one of those flat bladed screws in the future. ;-)
How do you remove dried blue locktite from 8-40 base screws?
I actually learned a little trick, I will have to make a video on it. Basically, you spin the screw in a very precise, set of cutters or scissors, or even a small X-Acto blade.
Is it necessary to clean out thread locker from where the screw was removed before re-applying another screw with thread locker a second time?
I thought you were actually going to cover how to best clean parts which have previously had threadlocker applied. I’ve never seen anyone talk about that.
Use a nylon or steel brush
Can these methods be used on a muzzle, such as removing a bird cage from an AR type rifle ?
yup
What if you start to strip out the head but medium thread lock still won't let go? Easy out bit w/ heat?
Super helpful, thank you!!
Great Video!!!
Thanks for the education.
Happy to help
Thank you very helpful. 👍👍
Thanks. Plenty of useful info here.
Thanks for watching!
my gunsmith used tons of red loctite on my muzzle break , i dont like the break because its to aggressive now i need a way to get it off without just overheating the barrel
Heat it up. You don’t need to overheat it to a glowing amber just enough to break down the cure of the loctite.
If anyone is stuck removing a red loctited screw then spray it with brake cleaner and let it sit for five minutes. Works like a charm every time.
Im pretty sure my remington 742 woodsmaster has red threadlocker on the main screw to take apart the rifle. I know there a locknut but i cant break it free with any amount of torque.
Any advice for breaking Rocksett bond on a flash hider? I tried all the tips I've found like soaking in water, both boiling and for 48 hrs. I've also tried a heat gun with zero luck. Is there any anti-curing agent that works on that stuff?
Not really. Water works but the key is a stout barrel vise and a sharp break with torque versus slow and steady if that makes sense.
Try using a sauldering tip that is shaped like a small phlips or what ever the bolt/screw head may just be itll transfer heat through the bolt/screw and you can begin to loosen and you can put a piece of gum or puddy or silicone to build a dam around the head of the bolt/screw and use a rubber syringe or any syrringe to accirately place some acetone to sit and soak
Do you plan on staking the gas key?
Too late to help me in my situation, but thank you.
Great video very informative thank you
Very useful info. Thanks
Do you have a video about removing muzzle brakes that were rocksett in place?
No but I should
Good Tips, Thank you...
Un-cure compound did not work. The small torch worked perfectly. Thanks
can you do this same vid but with the screw stripped? lol please i dont want to have to dremmel the gas block
Nice video! Very helpful!
Thank you
Good tidbits
Thank you!
4:16 can that uncure compound work on loctite 243 blue threadlocker
dude he just used it on high strength red
Cool, I was unsure of putting higher strength compound on a small fastener, but I am more confident I can remove it if I have to now. The medium strength stuff just doesn't work adequately in the application.
Awesome thank you!
Have you ever used Rocksett between the barrel extension and receiver extension instead of shim stock to create a connection that had no play in it? If so were you able to get it apart?
I don’t use rocksett for that. You could use either a sleeve compound or even 243 for that and removal would be easier.
@@GunsandTactics Thanks for the reply, so you have used a sleeve compound or 243 for this application? If so what did you do to take it apart? Permatex 64040 requires 450 F to remove I assume 243 would also take a high temp to remove. Considering the area that would be heated this may be hard to achieve.
I’ve used 243 for a customers build and results were nice. Impact will also break the bond of 243 or the sleeve compound. I can’t recall the mode number but it was also loctite
Dave
What do you use to clean up thread locker when you prep for reinstall
Torch and steel brush
So is Red your go to for the gas block set screws or do you sometimes use the Rocksett? And if you use Rocksett what’s the best way to get that to brake free?
On small gas block screws Red is the only way to go in my opinion, the only thing I use rockset on his muzzle devices that are used for mounting a suppressor. To get that to break I’ll soak in boiling water for a bit and then a solid fixture and proper torque.
Do you know of a micro thread chaser/restore kit that could be used to clean the old loctite residue out before applying fresh loctite?
For the screws I stiff brush and some acetone, for the threaded receptacle usually a clean screw and swab work just fine.
Great vid as usual! Great job on losing all that weight!! Keep up the hard work
Thanks for the kind words!
Thanks you saved my butt
Glad to be of help
I'm just gonna say this once one way take it or leav it...do not heat ur BARREL AT ALL with a torch, only screw...unless u want to shoot around corners
After successful removal of a screw secured with threadlock, should the hole be cleaned somehow before replacing the screw with new threadlock compound?
Yup clean off the old stuff is always recommended. Degrease as well
@@GunsandTactics what's best cleaner?
Is using blue loctite on my red dot optic screws overkill? Or should I go with purple?
got you covered ua-cam.com/video/ZKm7Yp57wBk/v-deo.html
If you use heat should you wait for it to cool off because heating metal up expands it and makes the threads tighter... also isn’t a gas block already heated and cooled a bunch of times...
It is but the compound still holds really well even with high use. When I’ve had to remove gas block screws heat is still required to break down the bond.
@@GunsandTactics Interesting, thanks for the info.
So if blue was used on say a glock front sight screw would that be ok? And if not how would one remove it without stripping anything out?
I’ve used blue on Glock front sight screws and still do. No issues. Use a quality tool or bit and you’ll be fine
What brand of ratcheting screw driver are you using?
Wera makes a hex that is scalloped they get about 30% more torque without stripping the head.
I will have to check those out. Thanks for the info!
How do you remove the residue on the screws threads that's left over?
Stiff brush and some denatured alcohol or acetone usually works well
Stripped( rounded) small hex screw. Fastened with red locktite. Any suggestions?
first, heat to break the bond, then try a torx or screw removal bit
After using heat on the screw, will the properties of the thread on the metal be permanently be damaged from the heat afterwards?
No we aren’t heating it up super hot
How do you clean off vibra vc3 I can’t seem to clean it off good enough
I use either a soft metal brush or a tight fitting nut or screw block to remove it
What about removing a muzzle device for a suppressor that has rockset applied to it. How would you go about removing that.
I’ll do a separate video on muzzle devices and rockset
GUNS & TACTICS Thank you. Looking forward to this video.
Water
Great video
Thanks
Does anyone have a suggestion with removing a free float handguard that might have been loctited by factory? I'm having a hard time removing it! Thank you
First, contact them and see what type was used. You may need heat to break the bond.
Where did you get the ratcheting screw driver handle? Looks similar to my brownells but different color
I think it was made by Williams Tool, same company that made the brownells brand I believe
I applied 40 foot pound for gas block screws . Do you guys think I over torque it? Or it should be fine leave it like that?
Foot pounds??? Those screws must be made of alien metal
Hahahaha good one.
Can i ask how can i remove the threadlocked buffer tube? Tnx
The tube should not have thread locker. If it’s not coming off then use controlled heat to break it down