How To Install WYS Series Pioneer Mini Split Heat Pump Unit 22 SEER
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- How I installed a WAS / WYS Series Pioneer Mini Split 22 Seer Heat Pump.
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Written Tutorial and links: www.hvachowto....
My Picks for Best Mini Split Units.
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Best DIY Mini Split Units.
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Be sure to follow the instructions that come with your unit. Also be sure to call a professional if in doubt.
If you choose to use this information for repair or maintenance of any equipment, you do so at your own risk. Always follow all vehicle manufacturers recommendations and safety guidelines.
By the way thank you for doing this whole thing one-handed! Your other hand holding the camera. This video is very helpful and excellent!
Of all videos, this has been the best at explaining every step!!!
Thank you!
Really great job. Great presentation. Straightforward, simple, and concise. awesome.
Getting started on an 18k at the moment. Wall plate is slightly different than the older model but not in overall size. Glad I decided to take the tape measure to it and check the layout for fastening. If it's hung on a stud in the center that will be the only stud it will attach to. And go figure, the 2 1/2" access hole will leave you drilling through the stud at right of center.
The mounting holes to get over two studs is kinda wonky but it can be done and without cutting a stud in half with the hole saw.
Nicely done! Your presentation was very considerate, thanks for your patience and generosity. I must only add that I'd have installed two wraps of teflon tape on the caps of the charging port and hex socket valve nipples. I have accumulated plenty of confidence from your great video and now I am considering a Pioneer HP with a high SEER.
That was the greatest explanation ,great job !!!
great video, really good attention to detail and making sure we're following along
Well done! Thank you for posting. We are grateful.
Thorough and easy to follow, nice job.
Great presentation!
Hey! Your HVAC installs are awesome. I run a podcast about tiny houses, where Heat Pumps have really caught on. Would love to interview you for the show!
Thanks for this.😊
They now provide a cardboard template with the lines hole printed on it
Nice video
nice video. thanks
Are you not worried about refrigerant and coolant pooling in the loop in the line set? I am installing the same unit, and everyone says to cut the included line set down, but I see on more than one of these UA-cam install videos where you guys leave loops of the line set coiled up. Is it a problem over time?
I’ve never had any issues looping it up behind the unit and have seen old 20-year installs still working with big loops. The refrigerant matches the line set, so if it is cut, some is supposed to be released.
MY understanding is that the small amount of oil in the coolant is not enough to make the loops clog up - so no problems.
To avoid any refrigerant leaks, I would follow this steps in the user manual.
13. Remove the charge hose from the service port.
14. Using a hexagonal wrench, fully open both the high
pressure and low-pressure valves.
Always follow the manual, but if you remove the hose before releasing the refrigerant, the vacuum will be lost.
Line set has a torque setting
Good tutorial but the only issue I warn against is using a gauge set to monitor vaccum. There is ZERO way to know if you have a deep vacuum using a gauge set. You need a true digital vacuum gauge. You can't test tightness of your system with a gauge set. But you can with a proper vacuum gauge. I am not an HVAC contractor. Just a home owner but I have my EPA 608 and I have studied hvac ALOT in order to properly maintain my 3 Split AC units, 1 Pioneer Mini Split, and 3 vehicle ACs that I own.
Yea you know more than him . 😂 an actually hvac tech and the thousands that use gauges to test vacuum
Being to one side of the window would have made an easy straight run down and no header to put hole thru.
I have a Pioneer 12kBTU mini split. I is 120V, can I plug this into a wall plug?
I have a question I’ve installed mini splits I bought the Yellow Jacket 19173 5/16" Female Quick Couplers x 1/4" Male Flare adapter for my yellow jacket 1/4 HVAC hoses my question is when you break the vacuum after releasing the refrigerant from the mini split condenser into the line set when I go to remove my suction line hose from the suction line service port on the mini split a lot of refrigerant comes out squirting , what adapter do you use for mini splits for your HVAC hose to connect to mini split 5/16 service port
Can you use a wall 230v wall socket and plug ?
You installed the line power wrong in the disconnect box. You used one incorrect terminal.
Are you in Arizona? If so, what would you charge to assist me in stalling mine?
My unit came with two black filter pieces, each about 2” x 8-1/2” but there are no instructions in the installation manual as to where they are supposed to be used. Do you know what these are for?
They go on the indoor unit under the door.
Thanks for the video, helpful. What is the breaker rated at, double pole 25 amps (dp25). The other thing I heard is that you can't run the Pioneers below 5F? Are the new ones the same?
This Pioneer unit called for a 20 AMP breaker. Heat pumps can start to struggle when it gets very cold. The unit will go into defrost mode and melt the ice on the outside condenser and then go back into heating mode. I haven't had any issues, but the temperature where I live usually doesn't drop below 5-10 degrees Fahrenheit.
@@HVAC_Mechanic Thanks, be interesting to know the COP's at those temps.
SOLID
Its a 220 unit, it appears you don’t use the neutral ? I have watched other video’s and they don’t use the neutral either . Can you please explain this to me
3 wires are used 2 hot wires and 1 neutral/ground.
You say "Nylog" earlier in the video, and then when hooking up, you say Locktite. Do I need both? You didn't show how to apply the Nylog. What surfaces/where do I put it? Thanks!
I meant Nylog. It is put on the face of the flare, not the threads. Nylog has videos on applying it. Here is one such video. ua-cam.com/video/PaGwWmd6Ey4/v-deo.html
@@HVAC_Mechanic thank you!!
@@HVAC_Mechanic I have watched so many videos - I see people use it on the threads, or not. (they say it makes it too easy to over-torque if you do). I also see people who use no Nylog.
Great video sir. The only thing I would do differntly is, I would use a micon gauge when pulling the vacuum instead of trusting the analog gauge set, and here is the reason why. Analog gauges only show inches of vacuum, (29.92 is considered perfect) with a number like 29 or 30 (as in inches). The problem is 29 inches of vacuum as read on an analog gauge is equal to about 10,000 microns and the recommended "minimum" pressure for a well done A/C system is less than 500 microns, so just using analog gauges means you won't really know how low your pressure really is. The problem with that is any moisture remaining in the line set reacts with the refrigerant and becomes highly acidic, thus greatly shortening the life of the compressor and/or the entire system. You can let the vacuume pump run for a hour or two and hope that you have it down below 500 microns but is it worth not knowing for sure for the price of a decent micron gauge like a CPS for around $160.00. That point is made very well at the site you reommended to someone else that references how to properly size an A/C unit here:
www.hvachowto.com/what-size-mini-split-do-you-need-btu-sizing-chart/ Great job on the video. Thanks for posting it.
I agree. Without the micron gauge, one simply does not know if 500 micron has been reached, or if the vacuum holds under 500 micron. Holding vacuum does not guarantee leak-free though. The manual also has a few steps checking for leaks when the system is running on heating mode when the pressure in the lineset is high and leak tends to happen.
In a small RV is it possible to have too much BTU capacity? Will a 12000 cool faster/better than a 9000? I noticed they are the same size and weight.
It depends on how big your duct system is or if it just blows from the roof. If there is no duct system then you don't have to worry about static pressures and negative pressure in the duct system and the size of the unit greatly effects that. If you just have a roof unit or wall mount then the size dosent matter, the bigger the system the higher amps it draws there for the more energy you use, it will cool quicker and it won't run as long. But if your going up in size and it does have a duct system you'll have to calculate how much CFM your duct system can take and that varies by the size and shape of the duct. Round, square, rectangle and how much CFM the unit produces how many vents you have, how big is the supply box, trunk line, flex or hard pipe. A lot goes into sizing a unit when you have a trunk line, duct piping or flex.
@@cameron3991 I would say 9000 BTU is fine for a small RV. My 12000 does about 700 sq ft.
How is the Pioneer Mini Split holding up? Still working? I'm thinking of ordering one. Install looks pretty straight forward.
It is working good. I have installed several Pioneer units over the years, and they all are still working good.
@@HVAC_Mechanic I'm trying to decide between 9000btu and 12000btu. My bedroom is small at 150 square feet. What do you think? I'll be using it for heat in the winter and cool in the summer. I live in Santa Barbara so there's no extreme temperatures. I'm planning for a 220v
@@sbflyer20 150 sq ft would use a smaller unit roughly 5000-6000 BTU. Here is a mini slit sizing chart. www.hvachowto.com/what-size-mini-split-do-you-need-btu-sizing-chart/
@@HVAC_Mechanic I finished installing the 9k btu 22.8seer unit last night and it’s working great. I especially like how nearly silent both the indoor and outdoor units are. Hope it keeps working for at least a few years. Very kind of you to reply to my questions. Thank you again.
My Pioneer unit came with 16' line sets and the big end was the wrong size. It wouldn't fit on the outdoor unit. Did you have the same issue?
It was the correct size for me.
Did you get the Damante series?
Mine came with an adapter in a small plastic bag. (Quantum WYS)
How many kwatts did you use before the install vs now?
I'm not sure about the watts used. This house has a 2 Ton (24000 BTU) 16 Seer heat pump in the roof with vents into the house that draws roughly 10-12 Amps, while the mini split 20 Seer (12000 BTU) pulls roughly 4-5 Amps. If the weather is not extreme (above 90 F), the mini split keeps the house temperature good, at least in the living room/kitchen area. This helps drastically drop the power bill.
Any help as to what to do about a PC-31 error on the outdoor unit and/or a PC-03 error on the indoor unit? This is on a dual zone YN020GMFI22M2E with a 12k unit at 16' and a 9k unit at 10'.
Here is a link to the code: help.pioneerminisplit.com/en-US/error-code-pc-03-(pc03)-168853
@@HVAC_Mechanic Could the pressure be too high? I used a leak detector upon installation but the unit did run over night. The unit also held a vacuum of -30 over the previous night. I vacuumed for 30 minutes and left the gauge overnight.
So I lean toward too low but how can you check the pressure? It seems problematic to have a code that is both too high AND too low. It seems that the PC-31 on the outdoor unit may be important too. I wonder why PC-03 is in some document away from the other codes. It is not in the service manual, for example. www.pdhvac.com/site/downloads/YN-M_SM2.pdf
If this is a new install, be sure the two valves on both the high-line and low-pressure lines are all the way out (they have a stop). You can also use soapy water to see if there is a leak since the unit is pressurized. Adding the refrigerant to a mini split is done by weight. Since they have variable-speed compressors, getting the correct readings is almost impossible. If you find some refrigerant has leaked out, you can do it the unofficial way by adding refrigerant slowly until the unit starts blowing cold or hot air. I made a video on this. Here is a link. ua-cam.com/video/LrMQONBJJgE/v-deo.htmlsi=RTXNdZiZ_j-pIPKJ
you left out the drain line.you skipped mounting the unit to the wall.you skipped the freon line installation.you didn't tape the white wire black in the disconnect.all i needed to know was the freon line installation.
How do I prevent a huge release of refrigerant when removing HVAC hose from mini split suction line service port
It is unscrewed quickly to minimize the refrigerant release. Only a very small amount comes out when done quickly.
They have a adapter called a low loss fitting. You put it on the end of your Blue (suction) Red (Liquid) line hoses and when you unscrew it dosent blast your fingers with refergant. They are thicker so you might have trouble if your king valves are in a weird spot or super close together, but 99% of the time they work out.
@@HVAC_Mechanic I tried to do it quickly, but it still seems a lot came out. Then it happened again for the size adapter, I had thought the shrader valves would have stopped off soon but it was like unscrewing a tire valve instead of a friction fit. It seemed like i couldn't do it fast enough.
Do you have to vacuum it down ?
Yes, I think mr cool sell some that you don’t have to vacuum them but it’s cost more. It’s better to buy the pump $120 and save the money ~$400
So it still doesn’t come with an indoor unit mounting template for holes and the mounting plate?! This will waste a lot time and headache. I installed one years ago and contacted them to supply a template as other companies, but they don’t improve their product. Don’t buy Pioneer
I bought one of these models and it came with a mounting template.
Most people buy Mr cool they last 5x longer I've installed hundreds of them. Even though I mainly do mechanical hvac now Water and Air cooled Chillers RTUs, VAVs, VRFs, Mini Splits 5 ton+, Package units, Boilers and a lot more, if you install one of these you need to pull a deep vaccum and make sure it gets to 500 microns.
@@cameron3991 I don't disagree, I pulled a vacuum, but my units still leaked out after 2 years. A nitrogen pressure test is best.
@@cameron3991 BTW - the Mr Cool units also do not have flares at the outdoor unit. They have a simple "clip-on" connector that goes on quickly so you don;' lose any (or much) coolant.
Hey, I have bought four Pioneer mini-splits. The older ones were smaller and noisier but my 2020 units are much nicer. However - but, ALL FOUR of these have lost almost all 410a coolant after about the 2nd year. Getting them repaired is really hard; every time I recharge them, I am lucky if they work for more than a couple of months. I'm at my wit's end. The only step I did not do in my DIY install was a nitrogen pressure test (which the manual does not even call for). I did a vacuum pump that held at -30 on all units and they all worked fantastically - until they didn't.
Does anyone have any ideas on what is what? Is it bad flares, or electronic problems? Would love to hear from @aztikkel11 or anyone else with a lot of experience with these.
It's rare I have an issue with a leaky unit, but it can happen. When it does happen, the main cause is usually the line set flares, but it can also be elsewhere. I would flare the line set again and check them with nitrogen.
Hvac systems are closed systems if you lose your refrigerant the 410a , then you do not have a sealed system you did not properly torque your flare nuts to manufacture recommendation, professionals usually just braze all there connections instead of torque them this is the best way to prevent your issue. Nothing is expensive when installed correctly the first time this is why you didn’t save any money doing it your self
The manual won’t say pressure check it with nitrogen because every contractor in the world purges and pressure checks with nitrogen , did you have a micron gauge on to see how far you pulled it into a vacuum? I have a 7 cfm vaccum pump and I would leave it on all night with out hesitation…. How long did you pull a vacuum ? Did you leave your copper lines exposed to atmosphere on install ? Always make sure you tape the ends to keep air out , the amount of moisture there is in the air just leaving them next to you on the install did you no favors
I install these for work and I’ll tell you what if you install them correctly they will last you 20 years if you install them incorrectly you will leave comments after 2 years saying now they suck
In your case, I would cut off the flares and redo all the flaring. Nylog and torque them to SPEC. Nitrogen pressure test to ensure no leak before re-charging it. For new installation, the manual asks to check the flares for leak when the system is in heating mode and the lineset is at high pressure, so no nitrogen test is needed.