UPDATE: I made an update video that shows more details and how to check for small leaks. Here is a link. ua-cam.com/video/DgaPPyAZSTs/v-deo.html The line set can also be tested for leaks with a low cost can of R152a propellant. Before vacuuming the unit, the line set can be filled with the R152a and tested with soap and water for any leaks. KWIK-E-VAC on Amazon is R152a. Here is a link. amzn.to/3AlXVpH
That tip is golden. I wss wondering how to do a bubble test without getting a costly nitrogen tank to verify, and dont want to trust beginner quality vacuum pumps without having a quality micron guage. The unit itself is well under 1k so it would be silly to pay 5x that for an install even IF you brick the thing or shorten its life. Pressure test shpuld be dome before trusting any mediocre vacuum because a fraction of moisture from above 500 micron isn't immediately fatal but a refridgerant leak sure will be.
This is possibly THE BEST and easiest mini split vacuum video on UA-cam. 99% of the videos on UA-cam either skip this part in detail or don't explain it well. For the record: YES I DID USE THESE INSTRUCTIONS to vacuum a non DIY mini split and it's been working with NO PROBLEMS. HVAC "contractors" or "Con-tractors" wanted to charge me $400-$800 just to vacuum. Like I told the last guy "You all keep overcharging and turning down work it won't be any work left sooner or later".
I'm not a HVAC contractor, but am a contractor.. I just gotta pipe up and say that cost was fair! I can't even open my door for less than $300.. You gotta keep in mind, insurance, fuel, licencing, experience, man the list can go on and on.
@@haulotteConstruct300 for an hour of work? $100 for your parts and insurance , and $150 per your hour of work assuming you’re driving from 15-30 min around the city. $300 is too much and $400 is insane.
Overhead, profit, gas/insurance/wear, time, knowledge+skill all adds up Figure its an hour hold under pressure 30min to setup/pull a vac, 15 to disassemble/close up/pack up tools in the truck. Add in a 30min drive each way(could be more could be less) and youre at 2:45min from start to finish time wise. A set of gauges and a vac pump would cost you 150 bucks from home depot. 400 sounds about right, 8 is nuts unless its a 3am emergency. Now youre more then welcome to do it yourself, buy paying a tech also means if it doesnt hold a vacuum theyll correct it. If they mess up theyve got refrigerant ready to go. When i quote clients (different business) i factor in 10% for overhead and 20-30% profit. That would put this job at 300 for me and i dont have the overhead a licensed hvac tech does. @oshitomaha
😳😳 someone please give this fella a medal 🏅 been searching for a simple and straightforward video on how to vaccum a system and everyone seem to be going into some sort of rant and still not much information to take away and then I found this and my whole life changed never been so desperate to save a vidoe.thank you so much sir👌🏿👏🏿👏🏿 air con guys in the UK trying to charge £300 and I have 2 unit to do.
This is THEE BEST Video on YOU TUBE on how to Vacuum the Mini-Split Lines. I have never done this before but you made it SO SIMPLY and EASY to follow. Other videos do not go into the detail that you did but your video gave me the confidence to do it myself and IT WORKED PERFECTLY! The HVAC guys wanted almost as much as I paid for the entire Mini Split to do this which would have doubled my cost. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
Yo!!! You just saved me 300$!!! I just installed a mini split and needed only the lines vacuumed, I got a quote of 250$ and 50$ for drive to my house. I ended up buying a manifold gauge set for 83$ on the Walmart app and bought everything else you posted from Amazon. Thank you so much for this easy to follow guide!! Man it feels good that your video helped me out during and save me a couple bucks!
Best and most clearly explained vaccum procedure out of the last 10 or more videos I watched. I had a leak (or so I thought) turned out it was the cap on the vacuum pump. Helps to close the valve on the guages before shutting off pump!!! Thanks!!
Man thanks so much for your video! The first mini split I installed, they charged me $285 just to vacuum it! I spent $180 on a pump and gauges and adapter and doing it myself! Priceless Info since I’m currently Installing mine in my bedroom! I’m currently letting it vacuum but soon I will have cold air and won’t have to call the HVAC guy no more!!
This video was very usefull.. 600eur costs 2 AC Installations in Slovenia,now I've done everything myself and It works perfectly... Thanks for upload,It helped me a lot!
Here in Austria I got an offer for -3000- euro for an installation (work and AC unit for a small room) , excluding costs for electrical wiring. So it was not a difficult decision to do it myself, this video helped !!
After watching 20 installments videos, the only question I had left was the sequence when it comes to vacuuming the line set. Lo and behold, perfect video just for that.
This is exactly what I was looking for. I'm planning on installing a mini split and was planning on having a contractor come out a vacuum the lines. This video gave me the confidence to do it myself. Great job on this video. Thank you so much for sharing this information.😎👍
I think that after releasing the refrigerant onto the lines. Then, you should close it again to disconnect the vacuum valve. Then open agai. This way you only lose a minimum amount of refrigerant.
Saw another video where the guy put 1 pound of refrigerant inside and let it sit for a while to see that there are no leaks with positive pressure. Then he disconnected with the 1lb of pressure instead of high pressure, so lost minimal gas. Then opened all the way
Very nice job with a good step-by-step explanation of what to do when and how. Thank you. Oh and thank you also for NOT having loud music going and jumping into the opening of your video with a bogus “WHATS UP UA-cam” scream! LOL… Subscribed…
Thanks for the video,I just installed my Mini Split and saved $250 I bought a vacuum pump and did what you did,step by step and had a leak that would be a problem,but vacuum pump helps Thanks
It’s already been said over and over but I had to say it too. Outstanding video! Perfect explanations! Thank You! BTW. Gauges can be bought at Harbor Freight for less than 30. Vacuum pumps can be rented from auto parts stores etc.
You all are right this video I found straight to the point, and it looks like he’s doing it with a pioneer mini split just like I installed. This guy‘s voice sounds a lot like the dude that I listen to for my Mini Cooper repairs.
Out of curiosity, I called a tech guy at I know at Carrier. This morning, he told me once when he was in the field, he couldn't get his micron gage below 550. He re-pressure tested with a tiny bit of 410 as a chaser. At 300# for 30 minutes. No leak. Because he used some 410 as a chaser his electronic tester found a tiny leak. 300# of Nitrogen for 30 minutes is valuable, but it's only one step of two. The 300# test will not reveal small leaks in 60 minutes, but will drain the system in 20 days etc. The micron gage will find small leaks.
Thanks for the video. Some mini split manuals indicate to open the high-pressure valve by 1/4 turn for 5 seconds before removing the vacuum connection. This allows positive pressure in the lineset to prevent 'sucking' in outside air when the vacuum connection is removed. Fully opening the refrigerant valves before removing the vacuum connection (as you did) also prevents outside air from being 'sucked' into the lineset, however, in that scenario I think you lose refrigerant from the lineset that gets 'sucked' into the vacuum hose, because the vacuum hose also was in a vacuum along with the lineset before the refrigerant is released. The refrigerant 'lost' in the vacuum line might not be an issue if your lineset is less than 25 feet, since the mini split may be designed to contain sufficient refrigerant for a 25 foot lineset.
Werry good explanation and hello from Norway, here in Norway they hide informations like this because the government want us to rent "proff people" for this werry easy job, so thank`s for a werry easy and understading video I give you 10 of 10 best from Terje - Norway
I like yr explanation on Analog dials and digital.I have the same vacume pump and manifold I use then on my 2 minisplits inverters I have been thinking of buying a digital micron gauge"but too expensive"Il just continue to use the oldschool equiptment !!it hasnt faild yet¡¡
Thanks. Ready to vacuum the lines on my Della mini-split (relabeled, most made by Medea of China). I have the Harbor Freight gage set (automotive) and their vac pump, similar to your setup and frustrated I had no fitting for the mini-split port. Should have found this youtube earlier. Down until I receive the adapter you mention. Thanks.
You’re suppose to open the 2 way valve first. You can even open it a quarter of the way for 10 seconds, close it, and check for leaks using dish soap and water on all your connections to make sure you have no leaks. Then after you’re sure there’s no leaks open the 2 way valve all the way. Then open the 3 way valve all the way. Besides that good video.
Just a quick tip if anyone sees this comment. When you unscrew the hose from the unit, unscrew at the adapter where it connects to the unit. If you unscrew the hose where you connect to the adapter, you’ll spray refrigerant everywhere. Won’t do that again. 😅
Thanks for showing "De minimis release", never heard of that. I am wondering if you should read the gauge before you remove it from service port? So you know if the mini split hold full refrigerant. Thanks.
Note: Remove the vacuum first before you use the Alan wrench to open the two valves. The video here showed opening the two valves first before removing the vacuum
If the valves are not opened and refrigerant is not released, the air gets sucked back in, and you will lose the vacuum when the hoses are removed. There basically is no point in vacuuming down the unit.
This i believe is vacuuming the evaporator side tubes knowing that if the condenser is new(from factory), it had already been vacuumed and freon filled at the factory. This techniques is for vacuuming the evaporator side.
@@HVAC_MechanicMy bad, man..😅😅..I'm a rookie and didn't realize that the manometer wasn't controlled by the valve...I disassembled mine's to know how it worked...🤦🏼🤦🏼🤦🏼
I take the shrader out of the adapter if i vacuum the system that way. I vaccumed systems like that when i first started. I also never changed my vacuum oil either. I dont do it "the old school" way anymore. I change my vacuum oil frequently. And if i pull a vacuum through my analog gauges, i attach my micron gauge to my yellow port. In my opinion "old school" was OK but new school is much better. If the manual tells you to pull down to 500 microns you should follow the directions along with how to install the unit properly. On new equipment the "single hose setup" is just as easy as the old school way once you get used to it. One half inch hose, a core tool, and a cheap micron gauge pretty affordable too. In my opinion-unless you keep on top of your hose gaskets, anologs always leak. Most new guys in the field let their hose gaskets go to shit. Anyways, this is a good video for homeowners who are installing their own ductless systems. But if my customer is paying $16,000 to put a new mitsubishi quad zone sytem in, i will give them nothing but the best quality job and practices. Also you made a good explanation on the decay test. Its better to vacuum than no vacuum at all. To each is their own. Hell, these amazon ductless units are disposable anyways.
Thanks for this video, very clear better than those other ones. I do have a question if you could answer it at your convenience. I have my mini split, I vacuumed the lines and released the refrigerant to the lines, however, I never check for leaks (pressurized it), and all the refrigerant leaked. I found the leak n I will seal. So, my question is, what is the order to refill the whole system? Do I vacuum the pipes only or the whole system first, ( how long approximately should I do it? , once I vaccum, second, should I pressure it? Or should pressurized first and then vacuum? and then last step refill the system?... once I'm refilling the refrigerant back into the system should the system be running? thanks
Pressurizing the system is a test for leaks which may be a good idea if you think there is still a leak. After the leak is fixed, the unit is vacuumed down, then refrigerant is added by weight. The amount the unit holds will be labeled on the outside condenser. Here is a video I made describing the process. ua-cam.com/video/LrMQONBJJgE/v-deo.html
How does a DIY installer find a tiny leak without a nitrogen pressurizing setup? I used Nylog blue on the fittings, made sure the vacuum hoses are clean and tight, got a brand new vacuum pump too. It pulls down almost to -30 but no farther and when I close the valve and turn off the pump, in about 30 minutes it's back to 0.
Usually, the leaks are at the flares, but the line-set will need to be pressurized and tested with soapy water. If you do not have Nitrogen, a low-cost KWIK-E-VAC Line Set Flushing Kit can be used to pressurize the line. Here is a link: amzn.to/3AKpE3u
I saw a video that instruction indicate that the procedure to release the refrigerant Is on the small liquid line turn the Allen wrench a quarter turn open for five seconds close the line Check again for leaks then take off the vacuum pump line quickly off. Then go back and open both lines fully and leave open The Manufacturer indicates that this five second release of the liquid will push out any remaining air when you disconnect The vacuum line with out risking thewhole refrigerant system. Think about it makes sense
Thank you for your mini-split videos! My Mr. Cool unit quit heating efficiently. To service I would like to vacuum, check for leaks and recharge. I'm assuming vacuuming is the first step. Do I CLOSE the two valves on the line set to do this. Then re-open them to charge?
This is the second video that I watched and I get how to put the system under vacuum. Yes, the hex nut releases into the system. At what point do you charge the refrigerant into the system???
Very useful info.My question is that what's the procedure if at first I didn't perform a vacuum because I didn't have the vacuum pump.I have bought it with all required gauges,Is the procedure still the same as the unit has be running for couple weeks.Do I need to follow the same procedure or something else. Info will be highly appreciated.
If the unit was not vacuumed down before releasing the refrigerant, then there are contaminants in the system. To fix it, the refrigerant will need to be recovered, the unit vacuumed down, and new refrigerant added back in by weight.
@@HVAC_Mechanic Does this hold true if you did do a vacuum but years later sprung a leak and unit stopped working with code saying low refrigerant? Do I still recover what's in the system? I closed both hi and low ports for now repaired the leak (bad shrader valve or should say probably loose, but replaced it anyway). Now was going to vacuum line set as there was only 60psi left in the line set after closing both ports and hooking up a gauge to test. Pushed on the shrader valve to see if anything started to come out and nothing. I assumed refrigerant escaped but don't know if that means air go in too.
Did your Adapter have the small part that presses the shrader valve on the compressor connection? Some take off the shrader valve on the mini split compressor connection
I have a dual zone system so I have two low pressure ports. Do I need to connect my blue and red hose to pull a vacuum on this unit and after I pull a vacuum do I fill with 410 A on both low pressure hoses? Or do I connect just a blue one and my yellow line to my 410a
On the Daikin 4mxs outdoor condenser, it has a liquid line and gas port service valve. I assume you're only required to vacuum down the gas port? Everyone of these videos only shows a mini split with one service port, but some units have two service ports (each line).
UPDATE: I made an update video that shows more details and how to check for small leaks. Here is a link. ua-cam.com/video/DgaPPyAZSTs/v-deo.html
The line set can also be tested for leaks with a low cost can of R152a propellant. Before vacuuming the unit, the line set can be filled with the R152a and tested with soap and water for any leaks. KWIK-E-VAC on Amazon is R152a. Here is a link. amzn.to/3AlXVpH
I actually run the AC in my classic 70s car with R152a. I use canned air duster which is the same. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you for sharing your expertise.
One question is that the port for vacuum is no need to remove the valve core.
Thanks in advance..
John
That tip is golden. I wss wondering how to do a bubble test without getting a costly nitrogen tank to verify, and dont want to trust beginner quality vacuum pumps without having a quality micron guage. The unit itself is well under 1k so it would be silly to pay 5x that for an install even IF you brick the thing or shorten its life. Pressure test shpuld be dome before trusting any mediocre vacuum because a fraction of moisture from above 500 micron isn't immediately fatal but a refridgerant leak sure will be.
Very helpful!
This is possibly THE BEST and easiest mini split vacuum video on UA-cam. 99% of the videos on UA-cam either skip this part in detail or don't explain it well. For the record: YES I DID USE THESE INSTRUCTIONS to vacuum a non DIY mini split and it's been working with NO PROBLEMS. HVAC "contractors" or "Con-tractors" wanted to charge me $400-$800 just to vacuum. Like I told the last guy "You all keep overcharging and turning down work it won't be any work left sooner or later".
😂 I've been seeing these con-tractors losing their mind in the comments on minisplit social media ads. They are scared of this tech!
I'm not a HVAC contractor, but am a contractor.. I just gotta pipe up and say that cost was fair! I can't even open my door for less than $300.. You gotta keep in mind, insurance, fuel, licencing, experience, man the list can go on and on.
You literally get what you pay for. Google has turned everyone into armchair genius's.
@@haulotteConstruct300 for an hour of work? $100 for your parts and insurance , and $150 per your hour of work assuming you’re driving from 15-30 min around the city. $300 is too much and $400 is insane.
Overhead, profit, gas/insurance/wear, time, knowledge+skill all adds up
Figure its an hour hold under pressure 30min to setup/pull a vac, 15 to disassemble/close up/pack up tools in the truck. Add in a 30min drive each way(could be more could be less) and youre at 2:45min from start to finish time wise. A set of gauges and a vac pump would cost you 150 bucks from home depot. 400 sounds about right, 8 is nuts unless its a 3am emergency.
Now youre more then welcome to do it yourself, buy paying a tech also means if it doesnt hold a vacuum theyll correct it. If they mess up theyve got refrigerant ready to go.
When i quote clients (different business) i factor in 10% for overhead and 20-30% profit. That would put this job at 300 for me and i dont have the overhead a licensed hvac tech does.
@oshitomaha
The only video on youtube with a comprehensive explanation of the correct way to pull a vacuum on a mini-split
😳😳 someone please give this fella a medal 🏅 been searching for a simple and straightforward video on how to vaccum a system and everyone seem to be going into some sort of rant and still not much information to take away and then I found this and my whole life changed never been so desperate to save a vidoe.thank you so much sir👌🏿👏🏿👏🏿 air con guys in the UK trying to charge £300 and I have 2 unit to do.
🎖🏅🥇
Thanks bro. Saved me 800$ I just needed the lines vacuum. Straight to the point no BS. Thanks again.
This is THEE BEST Video on YOU TUBE on how to Vacuum the Mini-Split Lines. I have never done this before but you made it SO SIMPLY and EASY to follow. Other videos do not go into the detail that you did but your video gave me the confidence to do it myself and IT WORKED PERFECTLY! The HVAC guys wanted almost as much as I paid for the entire Mini Split to do this which would have doubled my cost. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
Yo!!! You just saved me 300$!!! I just installed a mini split and needed only the lines vacuumed, I got a quote of 250$ and 50$ for drive to my house. I ended up buying a manifold gauge set for 83$ on the Walmart app and bought everything else you posted from Amazon. Thank you so much for this easy to follow guide!! Man it feels good that your video helped me out during and save me a couple bucks!
can do it for free... autozone and o reily lets you borrow the pump and gauge!
I was quoted $800 lol.
@@michaelnguyen370autozones manifold gauge doesn’t work on mini split set ups - there hoses are 1/2 and mini split requires 1/4 hvac hoses
@@Bostonn617you gotta buy the adapter
Best video on vacuuming a line set for mini split. Straight forward. No drag out BS.
Best and most clearly explained vaccum procedure out of the last 10 or more videos I watched. I had a leak (or so I thought) turned out it was the cap on the vacuum pump. Helps to close the valve on the guages before shutting off pump!!! Thanks!!
Man thanks so much for your video! The first mini split I installed, they charged me $285 just to vacuum it! I spent $180 on a pump and gauges and adapter and doing it myself! Priceless Info since I’m currently Installing mine in my bedroom! I’m currently letting it vacuum but soon I will have cold air and won’t have to call the HVAC guy no more!!
Installing a mini split today. A friend of mine had the gauges and I borrowed them. Simple enough and your video simplified it further. Thank you.
This video was very usefull.. 600eur costs 2 AC Installations in Slovenia,now I've done everything myself and It works perfectly...
Thanks for upload,It helped me a lot!
Here in Austria I got an offer for -3000- euro for an installation (work and AC unit for a small room) , excluding costs for electrical wiring. So it was not a difficult decision to do it myself, this video helped !!
@@JO-nh6mo I understand you. I usally go for couple days in Steiermark and I know that the prices of everything are just crazy...
Thank you sir. I spent $200 on pump, gauges and flare kit. Saved myself the $1,920 ac guy wanted to get four minisplit units vacuumed.
Exactly what I needed to see. Going to be installing a mini split for the first time in a week or two. Thank you!
Thanks. I needed to k ow how the blue line comes off. You nailed it.
After watching 20 installments videos, the only question I had left was the sequence when it comes to vacuuming the line set. Lo and behold, perfect video just for that.
This is exactly what I was looking for. I'm planning on installing a mini split and was planning on having a contractor come out a vacuum the lines. This video gave me the confidence to do it myself. Great job on this video. Thank you so much for sharing this information.😎👍
How did it turn out?
This man has turned something very simple into art.
Fantastic video. 👍
Excellent video, very detailed and really helpful explanation. Every time I am forgetting exact steps.
I think that after releasing the refrigerant onto the lines. Then, you should close it again to disconnect the vacuum valve. Then open agai. This way you only lose a minimum amount of refrigerant.
Saw another video where the guy put 1 pound of refrigerant inside and let it sit for a while to see that there are no leaks with positive pressure. Then he disconnected with the 1lb of pressure instead of high pressure, so lost minimal gas. Then opened all the way
Very nice job with a good step-by-step explanation of what to do when and how. Thank you. Oh and thank you also for NOT having loud music going and jumping into the opening of your video with a bogus “WHATS UP UA-cam” scream! LOL…
Subscribed…
Thanks for the video,I just installed my Mini Split and saved $250
I bought a vacuum pump and did what you did,step by step and had a leak that would be a problem,but vacuum pump helps
Thanks
It’s already been said over and over but I had to say it too. Outstanding video! Perfect explanations! Thank You! BTW. Gauges can be bought at Harbor Freight for less than 30. Vacuum pumps can be rented from auto parts stores etc.
You all are right this video I found straight to the point, and it looks like he’s doing it with a pioneer mini split just like I installed. This guy‘s voice sounds a lot like the dude that I listen to for my Mini Cooper repairs.
Out of curiosity, I called a tech guy at I know at Carrier. This morning, he told me once when he was in the field, he couldn't get his micron gage below 550. He re-pressure tested with a tiny bit of 410 as a chaser. At 300# for 30 minutes. No leak. Because he used some 410 as a chaser his electronic tester found a tiny leak. 300# of Nitrogen for 30 minutes is valuable, but it's only one step of two. The 300# test will not reveal small leaks in 60 minutes, but will drain the system in 20 days etc. The micron gage will find small leaks.
I've already installed one mini split and on my second. Thanks to the guidance of this awesome video.
Simple and straightforward. Thanks!
I used this video and was able to do my mini split without issues. I found the pump used for $96 on Amazon.
Amazing!!!!
Was able to install my mini split before family came over
Thank youuu
Great detailed non rushed video.
Thank you. Did my vacuuming and charging 1st time and your instructions were perfect and simple to follow.
Thanks for this very clear explanation! You certainly know yor stuff! THANKS!!!
Great detailed video. No grey areas ,just straight to the point and detailed information. Thank you.
Thank you! I was able to full install my minisplit by myself with your video and tool recommendations. Your the man! Thanks a bunch!
Thanks for the video. Some mini split manuals indicate to open the high-pressure valve by 1/4 turn for 5 seconds before removing the vacuum connection. This allows positive pressure in the lineset to prevent 'sucking' in outside air when the vacuum connection is removed. Fully opening the refrigerant valves before removing the vacuum connection (as you did) also prevents outside air from being 'sucked' into the lineset, however, in that scenario I think you lose refrigerant from the lineset that gets 'sucked' into the vacuum hose, because the vacuum hose also was in a vacuum along with the lineset before the refrigerant is released.
The refrigerant 'lost' in the vacuum line might not be an issue if your lineset is less than 25 feet, since the mini split may be designed to contain sufficient refrigerant for a 25 foot lineset.
This was the one thing i noticed he didnt do that others seem to prefer to do, thanks for clarification
I was almost ready to hire this out - I will come back after install and give you an update. I loved how you explained on the video.
Thank you for this video, I was able to install my Rovsun mini split following your tutorial
Werry good explanation and hello from Norway, here in Norway they hide informations like this because the government want us to rent "proff people" for this werry easy job, so thank`s for a werry easy and understading video I give you 10 of 10 best from Terje - Norway
Very simple and easy to understand thank you.
I like yr explanation on Analog dials and digital.I have the same vacume pump and manifold I use then on my 2 minisplits inverters I have been thinking of buying a digital micron gauge"but too expensive"Il just continue to use the oldschool equiptment !!it hasnt faild yet¡¡
Good video did one the other day the same way works perfect and saved hundreds of dollars.
Good job. You made it super easy
Thanks. Ready to vacuum the lines on my Della mini-split (relabeled, most made by Medea of China). I have the Harbor Freight gage set (automotive) and their vac pump, similar to your setup and frustrated I had no fitting for the mini-split port. Should have found this youtube earlier. Down until I receive the adapter you mention. Thanks.
You’re suppose to open the 2 way valve first. You can even open it a quarter of the way for 10 seconds, close it, and check for leaks using dish soap and water on all your connections to make sure you have no leaks. Then after you’re sure there’s no leaks open the 2 way valve all the way. Then open the 3 way valve all the way. Besides that good video.
Prob the best video on here ,installed 2 units last week .thanks brother
Just a quick tip if anyone sees this comment. When you unscrew the hose from the unit, unscrew at the adapter where it connects to the unit. If you unscrew the hose where you connect to the adapter, you’ll spray refrigerant everywhere. Won’t do that again. 😅
So all the refrigerant came out. So what do u do to recover after that?
pro tip: only let a couple psi worth of refrigerant out, then close. You can remove the gauges and waste virtually no refrigerant.
Great video! Very clear and easy to follow steps. Thank you!
I had to laugh. Looks like you bought the pump and manifold the same place I did 😁 Makes for an awesome instructional video. Everything is identical!
Thanks* for showing the disconnecting of the blue line.
Best one yet
Hey great walk through, super easy thanks!
How do you know the schrader valve is depressed and you're not just vacuuming out the hoses and not the lines?
I have the same doubt how can the low pressure line be vacuumed if the schrader valve is depressed
Awesome video. thanks. Getting ready to install mine and this helps greatly.
Great video very well explained
Thanks for showing "De minimis release", never heard of that.
I am wondering if you should read the gauge before you remove it from service port? So you know if the mini split hold full refrigerant. Thanks.
definitely! otherwise you won't know if it came fully charged. I had two new ones come low on charge.
Fantastic, cristal clear, instructive! Thank you so very much!
Thank you, awesome video.
Really good simple video to understand 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you so much!!
Great video, helped out a lot
This can even be done by a 74 yr old Retiree. Thank you..
Note: Remove the vacuum first before you use the Alan wrench to open the two valves.
The video here showed opening the two valves first before removing the vacuum
If the valves are not opened and refrigerant is not released, the air gets sucked back in, and you will lose the vacuum when the hoses are removed. There basically is no point in vacuuming down the unit.
Great job very helpful indeed
Great video, thank you so much for sharing.
i didn’t know Matt Walsh was installing HVAC on the side
Thank you man helped alot
This i believe is vacuuming the evaporator side tubes knowing that if the condenser is new(from factory), it had already been vacuumed and freon filled at the factory. This techniques is for vacuuming the evaporator side.
How do you possibli know tha there's a leak with the low pressure valve closed on the manifold gauge?
The valve opens and closes the center port. The manifold gauge side is always connected and on.
@@HVAC_MechanicMy bad, man..😅😅..I'm a rookie and didn't realize that the manometer wasn't controlled by the valve...I disassembled mine's to know how it worked...🤦🏼🤦🏼🤦🏼
I take the shrader out of the adapter if i vacuum the system that way. I vaccumed systems like that when i first started. I also never changed my vacuum oil either.
I dont do it "the old school" way anymore. I change my vacuum oil frequently. And if i pull a vacuum through my analog gauges, i attach my micron gauge to my yellow port.
In my opinion "old school" was OK but new school is much better. If the manual tells you to pull down to 500 microns you should follow the directions along with how to install the unit properly. On new equipment the "single hose setup" is just as easy as the old school way once you get used to it. One half inch hose, a core tool, and a cheap micron gauge pretty affordable too. In my opinion-unless you keep on top of your hose gaskets, anologs always leak. Most new guys in the field let their hose gaskets go to shit.
Anyways, this is a good video for homeowners who are installing their own ductless systems. But if my customer is paying $16,000 to put a new mitsubishi quad zone sytem in, i will give them nothing but the best quality job and practices. Also you made a good explanation on the decay test. Its better to vacuum than no vacuum at all. To each is their own. Hell, these amazon ductless units are disposable anyways.
Ok so are you saying I should do what he did when I install my Senville unit?
Thank you, thank you...awsome! Just the video I was searching for.🖒
Great and very helpful video!
Well, that seems easy enough to do. Thanks for the video.
Whoa. That's really great.
Great job. I'll be doing this. Do you torque the line set connections? Thanks .!!
Thanks for this video, very clear better than those other ones. I do have a question if you could answer it at your convenience. I have my mini split, I vacuumed the lines and released the refrigerant to the lines, however, I never check for leaks (pressurized it), and all the refrigerant leaked. I found the leak n I will seal. So, my question is, what is the order to refill the whole system? Do I vacuum the pipes only or the whole system first, ( how long approximately should I do it? , once I vaccum, second, should I pressure it? Or should pressurized first and then vacuum? and then last step refill the system?... once I'm refilling the refrigerant back into the system should the system be running? thanks
Pressurizing the system is a test for leaks which may be a good idea if you think there is still a leak.
After the leak is fixed, the unit is vacuumed down, then refrigerant is added by weight. The amount the unit holds will be labeled on the outside condenser. Here is a video I made describing the process. ua-cam.com/video/LrMQONBJJgE/v-deo.html
Thank you! I got down to vacuuming and could not finish.
Assuming both shut off valves are open going to the heat pump?
How does a DIY installer find a tiny leak without a nitrogen pressurizing setup? I used Nylog blue on the fittings, made sure the vacuum hoses are clean and tight, got a brand new vacuum pump too. It pulls down almost to -30 but no farther and when I close the valve and turn off the pump, in about 30 minutes it's back to 0.
Usually, the leaks are at the flares, but the line-set will need to be pressurized and tested with soapy water. If you do not have Nitrogen, a low-cost KWIK-E-VAC Line Set Flushing Kit can be used to pressurize the line. Here is a link: amzn.to/3AKpE3u
Wow thanks a lot for this.
Thank you for making this video. Helped me. Does it matter which way the yellow hose is installed? I notice it’s reverse from the other two
I saw a video that instruction indicate that the procedure to release the refrigerant
Is on the small liquid line turn the Allen wrench a quarter turn open for five seconds close the line
Check again for leaks then take off the vacuum pump line quickly off. Then go back and open both lines fully and leave open
The Manufacturer indicates that this five second release of the liquid will push out any remaining air when you disconnect
The vacuum line with out risking thewhole refrigerant system.
Think about it makes sense
Thank you so much.
I appreciate the video!
Thank you for your mini-split videos! My Mr. Cool unit quit heating efficiently. To service I would like to vacuum, check for leaks and recharge. I'm assuming vacuuming is the first step. Do I CLOSE the two valves on the line set to do this. Then re-open them to charge?
Thank you .. Godbless you Sir
Thank you
This is the second video that I watched and I get how to put the system under vacuum. Yes, the hex nut releases into the system. At what point do you charge the refrigerant into the system???
Once the refrigerant is released the system is charged.
Very useful info.My question is that what's the procedure if at first I didn't perform a vacuum because I didn't have the vacuum pump.I have bought it with all required gauges,Is the procedure still the same as the unit has be running for couple weeks.Do I need to follow the same procedure or something else.
Info will be highly appreciated.
If the unit was not vacuumed down before releasing the refrigerant, then there are contaminants in the system. To fix it, the refrigerant will need to be recovered, the unit vacuumed down, and new refrigerant added back in by weight.
@HVAC_Mechanic thanks for the advice.
@@HVAC_Mechanic Does this hold true if you did do a vacuum but years later sprung a leak and unit stopped working with code saying low refrigerant? Do I still recover what's in the system?
I closed both hi and low ports for now repaired the leak (bad shrader valve or should say probably loose, but replaced it anyway). Now was going to vacuum line set as there was only 60psi left in the line set after closing both ports and hooking up a gauge to test. Pushed on the shrader valve to see if anything started to come out and nothing. I assumed refrigerant escaped but don't know if that means air go in too.
Question. How did you pull vacuum when the valve was closed? Is that valve 3 way valve?
I see the vacuum pump says R410am does it work with R32 freon too?
Very helpful thx
Excelent video brother, thanks a lot.
Thanks Pro whil this pomp do the r32 coolant
Did your Adapter have the small part that presses the shrader valve on the compressor connection? Some take off the shrader valve on the mini split compressor connection
Great video. Are you on the low or the high side? Thank you!
I have a dual zone system so I have two low pressure ports. Do I need to connect my blue and red hose to pull a vacuum on this unit and after I pull a vacuum do I fill with 410 A on both low pressure hoses? Or do I connect just a blue one and my yellow line to my 410a
Where did you get the 5/16 adapter?
On the Daikin 4mxs outdoor condenser, it has a liquid line and gas port service valve. I assume you're only required to vacuum down the gas port? Everyone of these videos only shows a mini split with one service port, but some units have two service ports (each line).
Units larger than 1 ton often have ports on high-pressure and low-pressure lines. When setting it in a vacuum, only the Low-Pressure big line is used.
When looking up this guahe set on Amazon, it looks like it now has the adaptor included or am I seeing that wrong?