A few hours of research and a few more of installing and this saved me $2200 they wanted to install two of these in the bedrooms for me. We had the two main 18k units properly installed with more premium units with long warranty but they cost 11 grand but for the bedrooms these two 900 dollar units work just fine!
I put an 18k one in at work, the office had oil heat and that was about $6 a gallon to refill. The whole unit cost about what he pays for each tank, this will save a ton of money. Liked it so much put a 9K one in out bedroom and will be adding a 18 or 24K one to the front room soon before this summer
I installed the same unit 3 months ago. It is a tremendous value and seems to be a good quality heat pump. I did the complete installation. I would suggest a real pressure test with compressed nitrogen before releasing your refrigerant. The cost of the nitrogen and pressure regulator is minimal compared to the longevity of your system. I also used a micron gauge to verify the vacuum pull down- will guarantee full evacuation and leak testing before the pressure test. I used 12 gauge wiring for the 20A circuit for this unit -about a 75 ft run from the switch box in my garage. To the OP, you did a good job! I hope your system works as well as mine.
Nice! Now all I need is to figure out the electric side of it. We have power right where we plan to put the condenser, and we’re just using a 110v unit too, max draw is like 10amps.
Installed the 9000 BTU 240 volt version few weeks ago. Good job keep the videos coming. The 120 volt version is the Leto series and the 240 Volt version is the Aura series. The leto is good for -15 Celc and the aura series is designed for colt climate down to -30 Celc. Keep up the videos
Not bad, break your vacuum in ur suction line before taking ur hose off. Do a pressure test after the vacuum, and nylon doesn’t go on the back of the flare
Just wanted to say thank you for this video! The way you documented the process was great, clear and easy to understand. I followed along with the install of my 12K BTU LETO and everything worked well! The line set was way too long in my case, so I got to learn how to flare copper lines too but thankfully I got the hang of it with some practice. Thanks again! 👍
I like how "wire the unit to the main power and install a disconnect switch" is a five second clip skipping over something that could take hours depending on how you have to get to your circuit breaker, and should be recommended to have a licensed electrician do it so your home is up to code.
Thank you thank you for sharing this information on your install of this unit. It gave me the confidence to install the same unit successfully. Thanks again!
Great video - thanks for making and posting it! My unit came with the same signal wires that you show in the video, but it also had a much thinner (2-wire phone line type) wire included. I hooked up the signal wire as you show in the video (and everything seems to be working fine) but I wonder about this other wire. I'm guessing it is used for an optional, Wired Remote Control Thermostat inside the home perhaps? I don't see anything in the user manual about it... Also, for others thinking of installing this system, I have installed several of these systems at my place in Japan (never gets below freezing there) and recently installed one on an upper balcony of my cabin in Canada. I found immediately that there was far too much condensation created by the external heat exchanger for it to be mounted on the balcony. It was dripping everywhere on the wood balcony and to the deck below - especially when temps get below freezing and the drain line freezes. I will be remounting it to the exterior of the cabin in the coming weeks so that any excess condensation water can drip onto the ground below. (this was probably obvious, but I this was my first installation in a climate where it gets well below freezing in the winter months) Cheers!
I'm have to tell you that I have fifty years plus doing Harv (heating, air Conditioning,ventilation and refrigeration). It looked like you did a good job on installing the Mini split Heat Pump . I want to tell you that that you put ref oil on the copper female flare seat ( which I think you did )the reason oil the flare seat is to keep from damage to seat and help make it seal (because that copper flare seat is what make the seal, not the threads). Be a harv tech in Florida for 50 yrs it hard to think about installing a heat pump in Canada ( to know water freeze a 0*C and it is a outstanding insulation to stop heat transfer and at -6*C it is going to make ice fast if you have high humidity and ice stop heat transfer). Heat pump are great in mild climate. I would like to know how the Heat pump work-out for you. It is a good how to do info video Thanks
Thanks John! I had some experience with flares working on car brake lines and also propane lines so that was a help! These newer heat pumps seem to still work well in temperatures below -10C, this one installed in the video is mostly for AC in the summer. The existing one I have is a Lennox and it still pushes out heat below -15C (not often it's that cold), it does go into defrost mode every every few hours depending on how much humidity is in the air, so you are right it does freeze up fast. Of course living near the ocean probably doesn't help lol. Overall tho love these for heat and AC, no complaints at all.
Artic series mini-splits can work down to -13F or lower, and maintain full BTU ratings at 5F degrees. Not the same as the regular heat pumps. Used to be you needed a ground based heat pump to achieve that. COPs do drop at sub freezing temps, though.
In my area we have -40 celcius in winter and all people i know switch for a -28, -30 heat pump and they work great. The electric bill is way cheaper. I waiting for mine this winter. Thanks for your video👌🙂
After 50 years how you can say that was a good install? :D He made a vacuum test before high pressure test. Just giving a really good chance to make a scrap out of it.
when wrapping lines go from bottom to top as that makes it waterproof. You did the opposite. I'm thinking of doing the Senville but don't want to void the warranty. May have to call them and verify it's void unless hiring a "pro". Am I a pro? Been doing auto ac for 40 years.
@@kevinhayes2805 I installed a Pioneer unit. Works great although I did run into one problem. Even though I used nitrogen to check for leaks, I must have a small leak as I had to add a few pounds beginning of summer because evap freezed up. May be inside unit connection as I had wrapped it up in ashphalt ac insulation and it became goo. I'll see what happens in another year. I did have a concern with large indoor unit in that it didn't hold pressure from the factory when I removed the rubber plugs but I think it's just because they didn't install plug correctly.
Bought a 28k unit directly from senville as they are located a few minutes from my house, I have yet to install it but will be doing so in the nextf ew weeks! I'm excited for this!
If someone is not covering the lines I’d start at the condenser unit with the final tape wrap, just so your overlaps don’t allow water in. Nice install though ✌🏻
Hi, good video, I have a Senville AURA Series Mini Split Heat Pump Air Conditioner 12,000 BTU, my question is should i leave my heat pump on auto mode? it seems that it is not good for the components of the unit, is this true? Thanks
I have a 18k btu Senville unit, it's 12 years old and now I have lost the R410A gas, it would cost about 800$ to try to fix it. Buying the new version of the unit I have from Senville would cost about 1200$ and I could try to install it myself. I would have prefer the unit to work for 15 years, but for the price I paid, a Daikin unit would have need to work for at least 40 years to make up the price difference.
Depends on where you live. ebay sales R410A can for $200-$300 and the vacuum pump and gauge is about $150-$200. Should be able to fix it for about $500 if you DIY. I live in China and someone can come to your door to do a fill for $40-$50. Besides R410A leagake is usually installion problem. There is no doubt Daikin is a better brand. But Midea(Senville) is not that bad as they sell tons of AC units world wide.
I purchased the same size Senville unit. For the indoor unit, at 3:37, you are showing your wiring connection for red/white/black that is different than what the unit diagram shows on mine. Mine shows Red -1 ,, black -2, and white -3. I notice that your unit does not have this little connector detail that is just next to the wiring block. Anyone else- just be cautious about this, as the manual isn't very helpful.
Hi Andrew, Can you tell me what is the Amperage of the Senville LETO Series Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump, 12000 BTU 110/120V, Inverter. I can’t find it anywhere in the directions. My electrical friend tells me that I can attach a plug and hook it right into a wall outlet if it’s under 15 amps. Thanks
How did you figure out the wiring order on terminals 1,2,3 on the indoor unit? My manual says to reference the indoor units wiring diagram. Which does list colors but those appear to be wire colors leaving the terminal block internally. Not the wire colors feeding it from the outside unit?
I get 1 - red 2- black 3- white on my diagram but the video states 1-red 2-white 3-black Im confused, I plugged them 1-Red 2-white 3-black outside so I plugged them like the video says on the inside unit as well but its going against the diagram on my indoor unit.
Im planning on one of theses running off grid via my expanding solar crap lol. Now to decide if i want a 9k or 12k. Too bad they dont make the -30 units 115v.
My father in law got his installed on a second floor for 3K USD... that price was ridiculous. His was a bigger BTU than the 9000 shown on this video. But still same concept. I'm installing my 9000BTU based on this video! Thanks for the info! It is well explained!
I pulled vacuum, but removed the gauge before i released refrigerant for 5 seconds ! Is this bad? Should I just release all refrigerant, or hook up the gauge, pull a vacuum again, and then release the rest?
It seems like my flares from the factory were just trash. I connected and disconnected my line set 5 times tonight and could never get a vacuum to stick, even with the use of nylog. Now I'm going to buy a flare kit and copper pipe cutter to redo the flares and get this done. I'd much rather spend the $80 getting those tools than give an HVAC company at least $750usd to come fix that.
After extensive research I found that it's standard procedure to re flare the line sets as the flares are usually not good. Senville and other companies also include better quality flare nuts to replace the ones on the lineset. Seems nobody can get the 3rd party lineset manufacturer to do it properly.
can you tell me the two sizes of wrenches that fit the high and low side flare nuts? i am about to do the same project and am trying to get crowsfoot attachments that will fit on my torque wrench
I don’t understand where you ran the signal wire, to then have the grey conduit connected to the outside unit? You don’t show the full electrical run for the signal line
I’m installing ours now and may have screwed up and cut the tubing too short to 8 feet. Does it matter?? Because the indoor and outdoor unit only need about 7 feet of copper tubing I cut and flared the tubing to 8 feet. A extra foot for a gentle sweep in the tubing. I did not want coils of extra tubing outside. Andrew says I might have to have refrigerant removed. Can I get unions and lengthen the tubing again or might it work as is. Can I try it as is. Would it damage anything to try it as is???? TIA
My manual said lines should be a minimum of 3 metres. Going any shorter will likely increase noise at the outdoor unit and reduce the life of the compressor. If I had already released the refrigerant I would just leave it be. If you have not released your refrigerant consider buying new lines and running them a little longer
Well done video. Just one comment be VERY careful using thread seal on you flares. I recommend just a drop of refrigerant oil instead. If even a VERY small drop of this gets into the system it can cause major trouble.
Nylog is meant to be used as a sealer. Even if some goes into the line it will not harm the system but work in conjunction with the refrigerant and oils within the line.
Just got mine up and running. Blows really cold. In either auto or cool mode the indoor unit never shuts off once it’s cooled the room. It just throttles back to low rpm and the outside unit shuts off. I don’t understand this ? Doesn’t seem energy efficient. Anyone else have this problem?
Yes, you can go into engineering mode using your remote. In engineering mode you can have your fan turn off when temperature is Reached. Forget about calling senville to help you out with that, they are clueless and worthless on how to do this. Kept saying they would have someone call me back to help me out, never heard back from them! Took my friend and me a few days searching the net to find this procedure. But it does work.
@@chrisaudette7841 oh wow. I called Senville and tech support was knowledgeable and said it was indeed working correctly and in auto mode the fan will stay on. They said it’s more efficient which I don’t believe. I also worry the life of the fan will be reduced if it’s on 24/7. Do you have any links on the info you found ? Thanks !!!
These units have variable refrigerant flow and variable refrigerant expansion looking at the outdoor temp, indoor temp, desired temp, and indoor fan speed setting, so once it reaches the set temperature it should absolutely keep running. The most energy efficient thing you can do is to set your desired temperature and leave your fan speed set to auto. Obviously if you're not home you should turn it off or to a more energy efficient desired temperature.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
I get 1 - red 2- black 3- white on my diagram but the video states 1-red 2-white 3-black Im confused, I plugged them 1-Red 2-white 3-black outside so I plugged them like the video says on the inside unit as well but its going against the diagram on my indoor unit.
Can anyone answer this question for me? It would be greatly appreciated. I have a Shrader valve on the Low (blue) side that attaches at the compressor. I ALSO have a Shrader valve in the Supply (yellow) line that connects at the gauge set center. Do either or both of these need to be removed to do a vacuum test? If so, where might a guy pick up the tool to remove the Shrader valve? Thank you so much.
If you connect a hose with a valve core depressor (looks like a thin strip of metal running across the inside of the hose) to a connection with a schrader core then you do not need to remove either the depressor from the hose or the schrader core from the connection, although it will make your vacuum process faster if you do. Both parts can be removed with a "valve core remover" tool.
The amazon link in the description is for pressure gauges rated for r134a/r502. Not 410a. From what I'm reading they aren't interchangeable and you need to get pressure gauges rated for 410a. Maybe the link changed? Based on the attention to detail in your video I doubt you overlooked this. But for anyone referencing this video going forward make sure to get the right gauges.
He never fully pressurized the manifold gauges in the video, so it was fine. There will be no use for the manifold in the future either as these units have an accumulator tank with an electric expansion valve, so any future maintenance is a complete refrigerant evacuation followed by a vacuum and weighing in of the correct amount of new refrigerant.
I followed everything to T, checked every single wire and it's all getting a reading yet the unit won't power on. I contacted the company thinking the unit was broke and got a replacement, had a A/C guy hook it up and same issue. Any ideas? I disconnected my central unit and connected this to that.
One one I just did the indoor unit wire colors were mislabeled. Maybe same issue for you. Instead of what the label said for the wire order I followed what this guy did in his video (red, white, black). Didn’t work until I switched it to the above.
With a multimeter check your line(s) coming in are hot (220v 1&2 or 110v L&N) and then check continuity between the indoor and outdoor unit connections one by one (wires 1-3)
I have the same model and same wires as you and everything but the wire diagram says something different than what you did. Idk if I’m reading something wrong and should just copy you or what 😂
Do what your manual says. Most importantly, make sure whatever you do on one end, matches it on the other end. Example. Mine was wired 1. red, 2. black, 3. white/yellow on the indoor head unit. There were no numbers on the compressor where the other end of the signal wire attaches. So, I put red, black, and white, from left to right just like I did on the head unit.
@@da324 I don’t understand, my diagram on the inside front panel of the indoor unit doesn’t denote what goes in port 1,2,3. I’m assuming it’s red, black white. From left to right?
@@rossh1152 That's probably correct, but it doesn't matter as long as the other end matches. If you put black in port 1, then, put black in port 1 on the other end.
Does the indoor have a water pump? I want to install it in the basement if I buy this would I have to buy the small pumps I see in other people basement? Or is there a better option?
Cemetary Music too LOUD, i almost passed away. Nice job on the video! You should haved showed bubble spray on connection & used torque wrench fittings.
Ideally you want absolutely nothing other than refrigerant (in either liquid or gas form) in the lines. Anything else such as air or water vapor (sometimes called non condensables) will have an effect on the system efficiency costing you increased operating expense. Over a longer term the same contaminants will help form acids that will destroy the system from the inside out resulting in reduced reliability and premature replacement.
By using the gauge to check for leakage after releasing a little refrigerant, you are loosing a little refrigerant to the gauge on the line. Probably not the best plan if you have a 25 ft line, as that’s the max it’s pre-charged for. I notice they no longer do it this way in the manual. For other commenters, yes, pressure testing the line and using a micron gauge for vacuum is better, but these cheaper units don’t even talk about doing that.
taking the gauges off when there's a vacuum will cause a little air/moisture to be sucked in, it is far better to lose a little refrigerant. it's not a big deal at all when it's a little bit of gas, not liquid - unless done repeatedly.
@@Jon-hx7pe my point was that they only puta certain amount of refrigerant in. I’ve always wondered when it says pre-charged for 25 feet, what that means when you use 25 feet, loose some, and don’t check the pressures and adjust with more refrigerant if necessary.
Can I ask why you switched the black and white wires on your indoor and outdoor unit? I am installing the same unit and terminal #1 is Red, #2 is Black, and #3 is White according the sticker attached to the indoor and outdoor units. The outdoor unit has a sticker that says terminal #1-3 is for AC Power and L, N, Ground is for indoor unit. However, that doesn’t match up with yours either.
You kind of confused me with your comment about the line set length if they come with a 16-ft line set and you order a 25 ft line set you have to add more R10 ? ?? I thought the 16ft units support up to 25 ft so why would I have to add more refrigerant if it already supports up to 25 ft of it.
A few hours of research and a few more of installing and this saved me $2200 they wanted to install two of these in the bedrooms for me. We had the two main 18k units properly installed with more premium units with long warranty but they cost 11 grand but for the bedrooms these two 900 dollar units work just fine!
Watched a lot of videos on diy senville heat pumps. This one was my favorite, and go to. Got mine up and running now. Thanks for the great vid!
I put an 18k one in at work, the office had oil heat and that was about $6 a gallon to refill. The whole unit cost about what he pays for each tank, this will save a ton of money. Liked it so much put a 9K one in out bedroom and will be adding a 18 or 24K one to the front room soon before this summer
This Senville install video and another Mini-Split install video by Will Prouse are my go to vids. Great job
I installed the same unit 3 months ago. It is a tremendous value and seems to be a good quality heat pump. I did the complete installation. I would suggest a real pressure test with compressed nitrogen before releasing your refrigerant. The cost of the nitrogen and pressure regulator is minimal compared to the longevity of your system. I also used a micron gauge to verify the vacuum pull down- will guarantee full evacuation and leak testing before the pressure test. I used 12 gauge wiring for the 20A circuit for this unit -about a 75 ft run from the switch box in my garage.
To the OP, you did a good job! I hope your system works as well as mine.
I vot the same drill for 100 bucks at home depot. It's bad ass. And your very good verbal instructor. I'm a novice home DIY husband
Nice! Now all I need is to figure out the electric side of it. We have power right where we plan to put the condenser, and we’re just using a 110v unit too, max draw is like 10amps.
Thanks Andrew! I utilized your video for my Senville install. I never did a mini-split before. It felt great when the cold air was flowing.
I did as well. Great video
Installed the 9000 BTU 240 volt version few weeks ago. Good job keep the videos coming. The 120 volt version is the Leto series and the 240 Volt version is the Aura series. The leto is good for -15 Celc and the aura series is designed for colt climate down to -30 Celc. Keep up the videos
Not bad, break your vacuum in ur suction line before taking ur hose off. Do a pressure test after the vacuum, and nylon doesn’t go on the back of the flare
The vinyl wrap, if wrapped up from the bottom, then has the overlap down so that water doesn't enter the wrap. (a suggestion)
Just wanted to say thank you for this video! The way you documented the process was great, clear and easy to understand. I followed along with the install of my 12K BTU LETO and everything worked well! The line set was way too long in my case, so I got to learn how to flare copper lines too but thankfully I got the hang of it with some practice. Thanks again! 👍
That was very informative Sir. Nice work. Update on this unit please .
Thanks for this, much appreciated. The wire terminals for the inside unit are very soft and strip out easy, take care here.
I like how "wire the unit to the main power and install a disconnect switch" is a five second clip skipping over something that could take hours depending on how you have to get to your circuit breaker, and should be recommended to have a licensed electrician do it so your home is up to code.
Thank you thank you for sharing this information on your install of this unit. It gave me the confidence to install the same unit successfully. Thanks again!
Great video - thanks for making and posting it! My unit came with the same signal wires that you show in the video, but it also had a much thinner (2-wire phone line type) wire included. I hooked up the signal wire as you show in the video (and everything seems to be working fine) but I wonder about this other wire. I'm guessing it is used for an optional, Wired Remote Control Thermostat inside the home perhaps? I don't see anything in the user manual about it...
Also, for others thinking of installing this system, I have installed several of these systems at my place in Japan (never gets below freezing there) and recently installed one on an upper balcony of my cabin in Canada. I found immediately that there was far too much condensation created by the external heat exchanger for it to be mounted on the balcony. It was dripping everywhere on the wood balcony and to the deck below - especially when temps get below freezing and the drain line freezes. I will be remounting it to the exterior of the cabin in the coming weeks so that any excess condensation water can drip onto the ground below. (this was probably obvious, but I this was my first installation in a climate where it gets well below freezing in the winter months)
Cheers!
I'm have to tell you that I have fifty years plus doing Harv (heating, air Conditioning,ventilation and refrigeration). It looked like you did a good job on installing the Mini split Heat Pump . I want to tell you that that you put ref oil on the copper female flare seat ( which I think you did )the reason oil the flare seat is to keep from damage to seat and help make it seal (because that copper flare seat is what make the seal, not the threads). Be a harv tech in Florida for 50 yrs it hard to think about installing a heat pump in Canada ( to know water freeze a 0*C and it is a outstanding insulation to stop heat transfer and at -6*C it is going to make ice fast if you have high humidity and ice stop heat transfer). Heat pump are great in mild climate. I would like to know how the Heat pump work-out for you. It is a good how to do info video Thanks
Thanks John! I had some experience with flares working on car brake lines and also propane lines so that was a help!
These newer heat pumps seem to still work well in temperatures below -10C, this one installed in the video is mostly for AC in the summer. The existing one I have is a Lennox and it still pushes out heat below -15C (not often it's that cold), it does go into defrost mode every every few hours depending on how much humidity is in the air, so you are right it does freeze up fast. Of course living near the ocean probably doesn't help lol. Overall tho love these for heat and AC, no complaints at all.
Artic series mini-splits can work down to -13F or lower, and maintain full BTU ratings at 5F degrees. Not the same as the regular heat pumps. Used to be you needed a ground based heat pump to achieve that. COPs do drop at sub freezing temps, though.
In my area we have -40 celcius in winter and all people i know switch for a -28, -30 heat pump and they work great. The electric bill is way cheaper. I waiting for mine this winter. Thanks for your video👌🙂
After 50 years how you can say that was a good install? :D
He made a vacuum test before high pressure test. Just giving a really good chance to make a scrap out of it.
heatpump technology has changed a lot and icing is not a problem as it defrosts
Your video was a huge help in my installation. Easy to follow instructions and good visuals.
Excellent video! Very concise and easy to follow! Cheers!
when wrapping lines go from bottom to top as that makes it waterproof. You did the opposite. I'm thinking of doing the Senville but don't want to void the warranty. May have to call them and verify it's void unless hiring a "pro". Am I a pro? Been doing auto ac for 40 years.
If you have a certification number then it counts.
@@kevinhayes2805 I installed a Pioneer unit. Works great although I did run into one problem. Even though I used nitrogen to check for leaks, I must have a small leak as I had to add a few pounds beginning of summer because evap freezed up. May be inside unit connection as I had wrapped it up in ashphalt ac insulation and it became goo. I'll see what happens in another year. I did have a concern with large indoor unit in that it didn't hold pressure from the factory when I removed the rubber plugs but I think it's just because they didn't install plug correctly.
When it's in heat pump mode, have you ever tested how many watts its using ?
Bought a 28k unit directly from senville as they are located a few minutes from my house, I have yet to install it but will be doing so in the nextf ew weeks! I'm excited for this!
About to install one on my shuttle bus camper. Wish me luck, and thanks for the video! Extremely informative and thorough!
Any updates? Curious on an install in a vehicle
How did this go for you, doing the same, with compressor on roof.
If someone is not covering the lines I’d start at the condenser unit with the final tape wrap, just so your overlaps don’t allow water in. Nice install though ✌🏻
What size conduit did you use going threw the wall?
Thanks
Thanks for the how-to on the refrigerant work!
Do you have video on how to do the dedicated circuit box for the outside unit?
Thanks!
Hi, good video, I have a Senville AURA Series Mini Split Heat Pump Air Conditioner 12,000 BTU, my question is should i leave my heat pump on auto mode? it seems that it is not good for the components of the unit, is this true? Thanks
I have a 18k btu Senville unit, it's 12 years old and now I have lost the R410A gas, it would cost about 800$ to try to fix it. Buying the new version of the unit I have from Senville would cost about 1200$ and I could try to install it myself. I would have prefer the unit to work for 15 years, but for the price I paid, a Daikin unit would have need to work for at least 40 years to make up the price difference.
Depends on where you live. ebay sales R410A can for $200-$300 and the vacuum pump and gauge is about $150-$200. Should be able to fix it for about $500 if you DIY. I live in China and someone can come to your door to do a fill for $40-$50. Besides R410A leagake is usually installion problem. There is no doubt Daikin is a better brand. But Midea(Senville) is not that bad as they sell tons of AC units world wide.
I purchased the same size Senville unit. For the indoor unit, at 3:37, you are showing your wiring connection for red/white/black that is different than what the unit diagram shows on mine. Mine shows Red -1 ,, black -2, and white -3. I notice that your unit does not have this little connector detail that is just next to the wiring block. Anyone else- just be cautious about this, as the manual isn't very helpful.
A little more might be said about how to make a hole through layers of your house without anything going wrong, don't ya think?!
Hi Andrew, Can you tell me what is the Amperage of the Senville LETO Series Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump, 12000 BTU 110/120V, Inverter. I can’t find it anywhere in the directions. My electrical friend tells me that I can attach a plug and hook it right into a wall outlet if it’s under 15 amps. Thanks
Hi, what is the width of the indoor unit?,.. looks like it is about 3-4 feet wide? trying to prepare for install before it arrives.
How did you figure out the wiring order on terminals 1,2,3 on the indoor unit? My manual says to reference the indoor units wiring diagram. Which does list colors but those appear to be wire colors leaving the terminal block internally. Not the wire colors feeding it from the outside unit?
I have watched videos and installed a 12000 but unit. Just make sure the same color is on the same number on both units.
I had to call support to get it. They knew immediately so it is a common issue.
I get 1 - red 2- black 3- white on my diagram but the video states 1-red 2-white 3-black
Im confused, I plugged them 1-Red 2-white 3-black outside so I plugged them like the video says on the inside unit as well but its going against the diagram on my indoor unit.
How did you determine where to cut the hole for the gas lines? Is there a template, or did you guess and just got lucky?
Thanks. The video helped me install it perfectly.
Im planning on one of theses running off grid via my expanding solar crap lol.
Now to decide if i want a 9k or 12k. Too bad they dont make the -30 units 115v.
What size hole did you drill through the wall for all the lines?
I believe instructions say 2 1/2 inch
Wanted to know what size breaker I should use for the aura 12k version
How much does it cost to get an HVAC technician to install one of these?
This is a guess based on having somework done to disconnect and reconnect our airconditioner for construction. $300-$350 Canadian.
About 900.00
I've gotten several quotes each one was half the price of the unit regardless of size.
My father in law got his installed on a second floor for 3K USD... that price was ridiculous. His was a bigger BTU than the 9000 shown on this video. But still same concept.
I'm installing my 9000BTU based on this video! Thanks for the info! It is well explained!
I pulled vacuum, but removed the gauge before i released refrigerant for 5 seconds ! Is this bad? Should I just release all refrigerant, or hook up the gauge, pull a vacuum again, and then release the rest?
What was the exterior temperature when you installed the unit?
Thanks so much for this! Planning on buying the unit and this is exactly what I needed to have confidence I could install it myself.
Did you use a proper torque wrench at a specific torque ?
This was the best video that helped me install my unit.
the best how to make a scrap from a new AC
Could you please cover the electrical? I’m hopeful to run electric into building and plug it into outlet is that possible?
That’s not gonna work
Yes it works as long as u use the correct wiring. Did this set up 2 yrs ago and still running strong
I have the same unit, do I need neutral wire for this mini splite ?
Thanks for the video. I just ordered mine.
Can you touch on the electrical
How are you supposed to know if you have a leak???
It seems like my flares from the factory were just trash. I connected and disconnected my line set 5 times tonight and could never get a vacuum to stick, even with the use of nylog. Now I'm going to buy a flare kit and copper pipe cutter to redo the flares and get this done. I'd much rather spend the $80 getting those tools than give an HVAC company at least $750usd to come fix that.
only $750. HVAC guy wanted 3800 to install this. That works out to $3000 in labor lol
@@martik778 He wanted $750 just to vacuum and properly seal a line set. Nothing else had to be done.
I found another local guy who did it for $150.
After extensive research I found that it's standard procedure to re flare the line sets as the flares are usually not good. Senville and other companies also include better quality flare nuts to replace the ones on the lineset.
Seems nobody can get the 3rd party lineset manufacturer to do it properly.
Smartest move you could have ever made installing a mini split.
Nice video, and to the point. Thank you!
Did you open the low pressure valve before you vacuum it? I only seen you open it at the end
Yes, he did open the low side first
can you tell me the two sizes of wrenches that fit the high and low side flare nuts? i am about to do the same project and am trying to get crowsfoot attachments that will fit on my torque wrench
Download the installation manual for the brand and model you are considering buying. The line and flare nut sizes should be in there.
I don’t understand where you ran the signal wire, to then have the grey conduit connected to the outside unit? You don’t show the full electrical run for the signal line
thanks man, the parts list helped a ton. just bought the same AC
I’m installing ours now and may have screwed up and cut the tubing too short to 8 feet. Does it matter?? Because the indoor and outdoor unit only need about 7 feet of copper tubing I cut and flared the tubing to 8 feet. A extra foot for a gentle sweep in the tubing. I did not want coils of extra tubing outside. Andrew says I might have to have refrigerant removed. Can I get unions and lengthen the tubing again or might it work as is. Can I try it as is. Would it damage anything to try it as is???? TIA
I may have screwed up and cut the tubing too short. Does it matter?
My manual said lines should be a minimum of 3 metres. Going any shorter will likely increase noise at the outdoor unit and reduce the life of the compressor. If I had already released the refrigerant I would just leave it be. If you have not released your refrigerant consider buying new lines and running them a little longer
How many amps does it pull?
Well done video. Just one comment be VERY careful using thread seal on you flares. I recommend just a drop of refrigerant oil instead. If even a VERY small drop of this gets into the system it can cause major trouble.
Nylog is meant to be used as a sealer. Even if some goes into the line it will not harm the system but work in conjunction with the refrigerant and oils within the line.
Well done dude!
I might have missed it, but is the electrical run to both the outdoor and indoor units?
Only to the outdoor unit
Nicely done. Mine works too. cheers.
Just got mine up and running. Blows really cold. In either auto or cool mode the indoor unit never shuts off once it’s cooled the room. It just throttles back to low rpm and the outside unit shuts off. I don’t understand this ? Doesn’t seem energy efficient. Anyone else have this problem?
Yes, you can go into engineering mode using your remote. In engineering mode you can have your fan turn off when temperature is Reached. Forget about calling senville to help you out with that, they are clueless and worthless on how to do this. Kept saying they would have someone call me back to help me out, never heard back from them! Took my friend and me a few days searching the net to find this procedure. But it does work.
@@chrisaudette7841 oh wow. I called Senville and tech support was knowledgeable and said it was indeed working correctly and in auto mode the fan will stay on. They said it’s more efficient which I don’t believe. I also worry the life of the fan will be reduced if it’s on 24/7.
Do you have any links on the info you found ? Thanks !!!
@@rossh1152 ua-cam.com/video/yPnKiI8Xc9Y/v-deo.html&ab_channel=StandardAir%26Lite
These units have variable refrigerant flow and variable refrigerant expansion looking at the outdoor temp, indoor temp, desired temp, and indoor fan speed setting, so once it reaches the set temperature it should absolutely keep running. The most energy efficient thing you can do is to set your desired temperature and leave your fan speed set to auto. Obviously if you're not home you should turn it off or to a more energy efficient desired temperature.
Super job. Thank you.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
what did you use for the wrap
The wrap is vinyl and comes with the unit.
Great detail.
I get 1 - red 2- black 3- white on my diagram but the video states 1-red 2-white 3-black
Im confused, I plugged them 1-Red 2-white 3-black outside so I plugged them like the video says on the inside unit as well but its going against the diagram on my indoor unit.
Great video. Thanks
What size are the connectors?1/2 or 3/4
Can anyone answer this question for me? It would be greatly appreciated. I have a Shrader valve on the Low (blue) side that attaches at the compressor. I ALSO have a Shrader valve in the Supply (yellow) line that connects at the gauge set center. Do either or both of these need to be removed to do a vacuum test? If so, where might a guy pick up the tool to remove the Shrader valve? Thank you so much.
If you connect a hose with a valve core depressor (looks like a thin strip of metal running across the inside of the hose) to a connection with a schrader core then you do not need to remove either the depressor from the hose or the schrader core from the connection, although it will make your vacuum process faster if you do. Both parts can be removed with a "valve core remover" tool.
Can the line set be moved to the other side?
The amazon link in the description is for pressure gauges rated for r134a/r502. Not 410a. From what I'm reading they aren't interchangeable and you need to get pressure gauges rated for 410a. Maybe the link changed? Based on the attention to detail in your video I doubt you overlooked this. But for anyone referencing this video going forward make sure to get the right gauges.
He never fully pressurized the manifold gauges in the video, so it was fine. There will be no use for the manifold in the future either as these units have an accumulator tank with an electric expansion valve, so any future maintenance is a complete refrigerant evacuation followed by a vacuum and weighing in of the correct amount of new refrigerant.
I just received same unit but it's a 12000 btu sen 12cd. says the line sets are precharged so would I still need to vacuum and if so why?
oh you need quick connect lines and they are pre vacuumed. These aren't those so you need to vacuum or use a kwik-e-vac thing by pioneer
I followed everything to T, checked every single wire and it's all getting a reading yet the unit won't power on. I contacted the company thinking the unit was broke and got a replacement, had a A/C guy hook it up and same issue. Any ideas? I disconnected my central unit and connected this to that.
One one I just did the indoor unit wire colors were mislabeled. Maybe same issue for you. Instead of what the label said for the wire order I followed what this guy did in his video (red, white, black). Didn’t work until I switched it to the above.
@@kft4764 I actually just got it fixed last week, they sent me new wires and I reconnected everything and it powered up!
There is no glue under the vinyl tape, is it normal?
Yeah it's just wrap not tape
No Pressure Test 😮😮 first before Vacuuming..❓❓
Do I need 2 hot wires and 1 ground or 1 hot wire and 1 neutral and ground ??
That depends on whether the system you but requires 115 volts or 230 volts.
What is a low spot?
What size adaptor is the evacuation connector pls. I am at that step
There's a link in the description: 5/16" SAE Female x 1/4" SAE Male Quick Couplers
Could this be mounted on a semi truck?
I don't see why not I have seen them on RVs you just need enough power to run it
Thanks a lot, excellent video!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What size wire and size disconnect did you use for this unit?
I would use 12 gauge, it's good for 20 amps
I have the same unit and used 12 gauge wire with a 30 amp disconnect.
I just installed 4 units se vile and none of them are working they all getting power I can’t get them to turn on any idea please
With a multimeter check your line(s) coming in are hot (220v 1&2 or 110v L&N) and then check continuity between the indoor and outdoor unit connections one by one (wires 1-3)
What size adapter?
What size seal tire conduit is required?
I've got the same unit and used 1/2" conduit
I have the same model and same wires as you and everything but the wire diagram says something different than what you did. Idk if I’m reading something wrong and should just copy you or what 😂
Do what your manual says. Most importantly, make sure whatever you do on one end, matches it on the other end. Example. Mine was wired 1. red, 2. black, 3. white/yellow on the indoor head unit. There were no numbers on the compressor where the other end of the signal wire attaches. So, I put red, black, and white, from left to right just like I did on the head unit.
@@da324 I don’t understand, my diagram on the inside front panel of the indoor unit doesn’t denote what goes in port 1,2,3. I’m assuming it’s red, black white. From left to right?
@@rossh1152 That's probably correct, but it doesn't matter as long as the other end matches. If you put black in port 1, then, put black in port 1 on the other end.
@@da324 oh ok. I didn’t even think about that. Thanks for answering my question.
Does the indoor have a water pump? I want to install it in the basement if I buy this would I have to buy the small pumps I see in other people basement? Or is there a better option?
No. It needs to be installed where the indoor unit can gravity drain to a low point.
@@kevinhayes2805 i got the little pumps wasnt going to risk it
Cemetary Music too LOUD, i almost passed away.
Nice job on the video! You should haved showed bubble spray on connection & used torque wrench fittings.
These seem to come with pre-charged lines now. Would that prevent the need for the compressor?
Why did you make a template? They come with one in the bottom of the box.
What happens if you dont vacuumed it
Ideally you want absolutely nothing other than refrigerant (in either liquid or gas form) in the lines. Anything else such as air or water vapor (sometimes called non condensables) will have an effect on the system efficiency costing you increased operating expense. Over a longer term the same contaminants will help form acids that will destroy the system from the inside out resulting in reduced reliability and premature replacement.
Worst case scenario the air turns the compressor into a fragmentation grenade
By using the gauge to check for leakage after releasing a little refrigerant, you are loosing a little refrigerant to the gauge on the line. Probably not the best plan if you have a 25 ft line, as that’s the max it’s pre-charged for. I notice they no longer do it this way in the manual. For other commenters, yes, pressure testing the line and using a micron gauge for vacuum is better, but these cheaper units don’t even talk about doing that.
*losing
@@ironadversity2500 Well it loosed to the atmosphere ;)
It certainly would be better to use nitrogen, but this is DIY after all. He did say to consult an expert if in doubt. 😊
taking the gauges off when there's a vacuum will cause a little air/moisture to be sucked in, it is far better to lose a little refrigerant. it's not a big deal at all when it's a little bit of gas, not liquid - unless done repeatedly.
@@Jon-hx7pe my point was that they only puta certain amount of refrigerant in. I’ve always wondered when it says pre-charged for 25 feet, what that means when you use 25 feet, loose some, and don’t check the pressures and adjust with more refrigerant if necessary.
For me Flare fittings is OUT.....i rather using Stay Brite 8 Solder. Cutting the Flare sections Out. I heard Bad things about Them 😕👎
Why are you working at nite? Or was there an eclipse?
Nice job.
Can I ask why you switched the black and white wires on your indoor and outdoor unit? I am installing the same unit and terminal #1 is Red, #2 is Black, and #3 is White according the sticker attached to the indoor and outdoor units.
The outdoor unit has a sticker that says terminal #1-3 is for AC Power and L, N, Ground is for indoor unit. However, that doesn’t match up with yours either.
Thank you
You kind of confused me with your comment about the line set length if they come with a 16-ft line set and you order a 25 ft line set you have to add more R10 ? ?? I thought the 16ft units support up to 25 ft so why would I have to add more refrigerant if it already supports up to 25 ft of it.