I would assume that it is self centering on the stub axle... since it is enclosed in the bearing housing, I can't see how / where exactly it sits. I would imagine that if one of the wheel bearings is bad, or too much bearing play is present (due to not tightening the stub axle nut correctly), that the stub axle moves too much in / out, up / down at either end...which could affect the spacer.
Hi Thomas I have a problem with my 1983 T3, when I apply the brake the pedal jumps. I changed all the bearings, discs and drums without solving it... can you help me? thank you and congratulations for your work. Carlo
Check the brake shoes, they might not be sitting correctly against the brake wheel cylinders. Also make sure that the shoes are adjusted correctly (turn the adjustment until the shoes make slight contact with the drums).
Thanks a lot for all your videos. They've been very helpful to me. I'm replacing my rear wheel bearings at the moment. I was able to push the stub axel through with just my fingers. Is that a sign of too much play and needing to be replaced? Thanks!
Maybe. Best way to judge is when the nut is tight and then try to wiggle the wheel. Axle nut torque is more than 350 ft lbs (service manual will list exact value). A little play is fine. Unless the bearings are noisy when spinning (after cleaning) they seem to last forever.
@@EXOVCDS thanks alot for the reply. There wasn't any play on the passengers side before I took everything off. The driver's side does but I haven't tackled that side yet.
I'm aware of the 46mm torque spec (360ish ft lbs), but is it acceptable to just mark the nut to the spline shaft with a punch, before disassembly? (I have no bearing issues yet. Just want to inspect and repack.) What's stopping the bearings from being over torqued? I had the nut off yesterday to inspect my brake shoes..
I mark the nut / shaft position before removing the nut... when assembling, I gauge how much effort my impact gun takes to get the nut back to the same position. It's a "feel" that I have acquired over the years. I either end up back at the same location or I adjust accordingly (less or more tight depending on the struggle the gun has to get to the marks). I've done a lot of Vanagon rear brakes over the years and always removed the nut & hub to do so. Installed the nut as mentioned and have NEVER had any issues with bearings (new or old) failing prematurely. I might have changed less than 10 bearing sets over the last 20+ years. Good & tight is good & tight.
Hey Thomas ! Big fan, hey whats a good indicator of a faulty rear bearing, over a cv….. i have this humming rear right , like big tire tread humming, but isolated to the rear, and intermittently a click…like so infrequently , has cv issues in the past …., any advice, thank you
Humming that gets louder the faster you go is most likely a wheel bearing issue. Driving in a slalom to shift vehicle weight can cause to hum to soften & intensify (confirming wheel bearing, noisier when weight shifts to bad bearing). You probably also have a cv joint that has a worn spot. Inspecting the joints will tell you which one it is. You can install the joint in the same location but flipped... so the the pitted part of the bearing is no longer on the load side of the bearing.
@@EXOVCDS ok thanks, yes the humming keeps tempo with the speed. I’ve aready bought the cvs ugh, but will inspect them when I take them off, you rock man , thanks again
Yes. A good video, but you could mention an impotant thing: the torque to set the 46 mm nut is 450 N.m or so, sometimes 500 N.m is mentioned. That is a lot. I had wheelplay on side of the car. After disassembly the axel with the stub-end, it was 0.02 mm undersize, (34.98) nevertheless it was the 100% original VW part! Normally you have an interference fit, (35.00 axle and 35.00 bearing) the axle shifts with a certain pressload into the bearing. In my undersize case the inner race of the rollerbearing tends to walk, turn slowly over the axle and the axle gets a groove in time, and spews darkred-grease out. EVEN with the 450 N.m torgue this happens. So I had to repair a factory-out-of-tolerance part. (shame VW) The shop nearby hard chromed it en regrinded it to spec. Velden chroom techniek in Tilburg, NL, 100 Euro, nice guys. And now this awsome bus has 405.000 km on it and amazes everybody.
Thanks for the info. There are many things that I could / should mention... but since I record while I am at work, I can't take that extra time. Adding the "extra" information during editing would be a possibility... but time is a factor as well. If more people worked with a service manual, then less would need explaining. Cases such as yours are rare and not everyone (including myself) would have noticed, unless things had "assembled" too easily. Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for the reply. I go for the 500.000 mark. Besides that: first and original CU - engine block, 1 half and 1 complete rebuilt now. Groeten uit NL.
How do you adjust the pre-load on the bearing? How do you put the hub back in? Do you just drive it in? I would think that would be hard on the bearings.
Non-tapered roller bearings. Hub slides on nice & easy once splines are cleaned. Torque is 370 ft lbs. The inner races get squished against the spacer & hub... the tighter the better, or the nut comes loose as you saw.
Garth Goldberg The inner bearing is caged / has sides around the balls, both inner & outer races... guess that takes the load. The outer bearing inner race was free to move, so it moves along with the hub as the hub is torqued into place against the spacer and the inner race of the inner bearing (which is surrounding the balls). I'm no engineer (I should have paid attention in school & during apprenticeship training). Book says install and tighten to 370 ft lbs.
Yes... but the stub axle can stay on place if you need to remove the backing plate. The wheel cylinder needs to come off and the lower mount for the shoes. The shoes & brake cable... and then the backing plate should come off.
It doesn't have to be full... but there should be a layer of grease (between the inner & outer bearing) to contact both bearings, around the inner circumference.
Nice work. I'm just looking because my van is 32 yo and stock bearings with 91000 mi. I've decided to run it until it starts making noise.? I will do my fronts, because of safety at some point soon. Probably this summer. I am using the van alot this winter to go to southrern az and worry about these things. Its worth it, I think. ??
Preventative maintenance can prevent getting stranded. =) The rear bearings last a much longer time than the front. Both are straight forward to change. All the best to you for the new year! Thank you for watching!
Never did it in place but definitively looks doable this way ;) The 46mm nut torque is 500Nm so a meter long (~3ft) breaker bar or a torque wrench for trucks is needed to torque it down. Btw it looked like there was not enough grease in the cv joints.
Quick question from an aspiring vanagon at-home mechanic.. is the rear cv axle, on a manual 2wd 87 vanagon, supposed to be able to move in and out, or "plunge" as I've heard? or is that a sign that something has gone wrong... thank your for your time!!!
Yes... it needs to, to account for wheel travel as the wheel goes up & down. Old / high mileage joints / shafts will have more freeplay (easier to move) than new joints / shafts... this is normal, but too loose is not good.
@@EXOVCDS follow up Q, if my rear passenger side has an inch of play, yet the drivers side has almost none, is that still acceptable? And if not, what is the correct repair? Repack the boot, or would I have to actually replace the whole axle on one side? Thank you so much!!!!!
The loose side is loose due to age / wear. Packing new grease might take away a bit of that looseness. The side that's tight, might be tight because the bearings have no play, or because the bearings are dry (grease has dried up). In both cases, if it hasn't been done in a while (every 5 to 8 years), remove the shafts... clean & inspect the joints and assemble with new grease (if the bearings are not pitted).
Cannot get anyone to answer this good question...VW mechanics and garages. I have lateral play on both sides...the same amount. NOT 12 and 6 or 9 and 3 o'clock play but only in and out. Testers will not accept this but VW testers will. No bearing noise, no twist play, purely in and out. Please give me your opinion what it is, as been working on this for two years. 46 mm nut tight, and no sign of brake drum, to nut play i.e. lack of washers.. Thanks.
Without seeing it / checking it myself... I can't really say. Something has to be worn. If not the bearings then possibly the housing (allowing the bearings to shift).
@@EXOVCDS Thanks appreciate the reply. Was thinking maybe the sleeve is worn allowing the movement. Will measure it on next strip down. I'll let you know in case someone else asks you. Thanks.
My mates t3 had play no noise and Tigh on bearing I read the hub can flog out I said I could fix it for sure but might pay to buy second new swing arm. wheel had play Top and bottom in outward direction . fitted New brakes last Automechanica in 2014 to it while I driven it in Germany.
Great video. I just got finished doing my drivers side rear and when I got it back together it feels as though there is an ever so slight tiny bit of play not enough to even measure but enough that you can hear it a little bit. I hope I got it in right. Also I used an impact wrench to get the axle nut back on but I have no way to measure 350lbs as it states in the Bentley. Any thoughts on that? Getting ready to do passenger side.
So, how would you describe the noise from a worn rear bearing? I have a slowly getting louder wine and vibration, pitch is constant and it is not the Rand P. The vibration is noticable at moderate speed and less at highway... my rear bearings probably have 320k miles on them...
Growling sound... may or may not change pitch when vehicle is driven in a slight slalom (change load on bearing). With that many miles... they could use regreasing at minimum, but you probably have at least one that is bad. I would replace both pairs... good for another 320K miles then. =)
Just to be sure we are talking about the same thing... send me an email with pictures (if you have them) or tell me which part of the video. fkh161@fkh161.ca
The bearings come with outer & inner races. The inner bearing is one "piece"... you can not remove the inner race without breaking the bearing. The outer bearing has an inner race that is a sleeve... inner & outer bearings are NEW.
You need to loosen the hand brake, install the new brake shoe, install the drum, adjust the brake shoes so that there is a little bit of drag on the drum, then you adjust the hand brake until you get 3 to 5 clicks. Release the hand brake and check that the drums are free to turn. Follow the brake cables to the middle of the car... there is a 10mm nut that you turn, to loosen or tighten the cables.
Did you loosen the hand brake before adjusting the shoes? Are the drums dragging? You can leave it at 1... as the brakes wear, you will get more clicks.
Κώστας Λεούσης new shoes might take a while before they grab well. Don't adjust the shoes or the parking brake too tight... or things will overheat. Leave it at 3 clicks (as long as you can still turn the wheels when the hand brake is off) and let the brakes wear-in. If you don't drive it much / far... then it will take some time before things might get better.
Thank you for watching... I was actually wrong in saying that. The loaded surfaces remain the same, due to the way the joints are driven. Outer race pushes on inner race (inner bearing), inner race pushes on outer race (outer bearing). When you swap sides, then the same this is happening. I should have moved the axle to the driver side, keeping the inner joint on the inside, then the load would be on the other side of the bearing. Gets confusing, that's why I keep making the mistake. D'Oh!
Hi Thomas, is it normal for the new bearings to have slight play? I have an MOT advisorie for old ones, I checked them myself by jacking up and rocking top to bottom and it really is tiny, feels like a mm. Hard to convey on here. But many people in forums said after fiting the new ones it was the same! You said further down they should last another 320k, I assume you just meant alot, my van has been off the road 20 years and is only showing 60k if that is correct. Cheers.
as always, another awesome job helping those of us out here that like to see things done the right way and learn a few things along the way as well! thank you! I have to ask though, how do i get MC HAMMER dancing on my videos? LOL had me laughing!
That's easy... LOL. Step 1: use hammer or have hammer sound in the background of the video Step 2: download GIF: i.imgur.com/WfW2U.gif Step 3: insert into video Thank you for watching!
So the axle can go either way. Interesting. Eric O is using Harbor Freight electric impacts. He says they r fine. Milwaukee jacked u up. I don’t like that they treated an excellent ad source like that. B&L from across the pond needs to make a fuss. With his disarming good looks, something might happen
Too many critics that watch my videos (not you)... don't need to deal with "should have, could have etc". Sometimes I show the assembly... I also don't want to be liable for someone following my "installation"... screwing up & blaming me. Hmm, maybe I'll open a second channel... paid channel, where the assembly is shown. Only those truly interested in the assembly would bother subscribing. LOL
May i request something additional, can you please write the exact problem, how to notice it and what are the complains that will address the exact repair job in the video descriptions below :). The reason why i say this is, for example this video we can see how to remove rear wheel bearing but i cant understand how did you diagnosed the problem was about that. To be more spesific i am not an expert so when i hear a sound or realise something is wrong i cant address the issue. Can you please put something about the problem also so when we have the same problem we can know how to fix it :). This way i can watch a solution but i cant figure out which problem leads us to that solution. Thank you Kind Regards :)
Thank you for your input... I understand what you mean. Because I record while I work, I don't always record the actual diagnosis. I tend to just record the removal of what the issue is. A noisy wheel bearing should be easy / straight forward to diagnose (rumble / growing sound from the rear when the vehicle is moving... the faster the vehicle, the louder the sound). It is easier and more time efficient for me, to reply to comments... rather than try to record, describe or leave reasons for the repair in the description or in the video. Video editing takes enough time... making the video longer (to describe the reason for the repair) or to add a "before" & "after" sounds, takes more time than I want to add to each video. Most people don't watch my videos from start to finish... so extra work for something that is not being watch, does not make sense to me at this point. Maybe sometime in the future, when I am working out of my own warehouse (similar to Eric The Car Guy), I can the spend more time on each repair, to cover all the important bits & sounds.
StopDropandLOL Was a 1/2" gun... he wasn't using a torque sequence. Was tightening away until the cotter pin hole in the stub axle lined-up with the nut. Torque spec is 500 Nm / 370 ft lbs
A big THUMBS DOWN!! At 3:26 you just jumped past removing the 46mm castle nut at the center of the rear brake hub. It's a challenge, and should have been part of the video! That's a FAIL!!!
@@EXOVCDS It's quite well known that it takes a 46mm socket, and is very difficult to remove hence skipping over it may have led others to think it was super easy to remove.
This is perhaps the wrong way of doing it. Once I saw the hammer head hit the axle and ruin the threads the video lost its technical credibility There is a much easier way. Without removing the axle if you are replacing the bearings and seals
Instead of posting "I can do it better" comments under videos... record & post videos yourself. Oh wait, you don't want to deal with smartasses that post "I can do it better than you". Rest assured, no threads were harmed.
I've watched a ton of your videos over the years, just got a T3 , really stoked on all the good videos you have for them.
Thank you for watching!
You do not have to loose the outer driveshaft joint. just the inner. Then pull out the hole thing. I just did that.
Yes, that also works.
Thomas excellent video sir. Whats your preferred grease for the bearings ?
No preference.
If it's labeled wheel bearing grease, it should do the job.
Thank you for this detailed video of how to remove and replace the bearings. I had no idea as to what steps to follow and the order in which to do it.
Thank you for watching!
Possibly a stupid question but does the spacer have to fit a certain way? Noticed it has milling on it which isn’t central on the spacer itself
I would assume that it is self centering on the stub axle... since it is enclosed in the bearing housing, I can't see how / where exactly it sits. I would imagine that if one of the wheel bearings is bad, or too much bearing play is present (due to not tightening the stub axle nut correctly), that the stub axle moves too much in / out, up / down at either end...which could affect the spacer.
Hi Thomas I have a problem with my 1983 T3, when I apply the brake the pedal jumps. I changed all the bearings, discs and drums without solving it... can you help me? thank you and congratulations for your work. Carlo
I don't know what you mean by "the pedal jumps".
@@EXOVCDS sorry, I wasn't clear, when I brake the pedal goes up and down and I hear a noise like "cra cra" from the rear side, thanks, have a nice day
Check the brake shoes, they might not be sitting correctly against the brake wheel cylinders. Also make sure that the shoes are adjusted correctly (turn the adjustment until the shoes make slight contact with the drums).
Thanks a lot for all your videos. They've been very helpful to me. I'm replacing my rear wheel bearings at the moment. I was able to push the stub axel through with just my fingers. Is that a sign of too much play and needing to be replaced?
Thanks!
Maybe. Best way to judge is when the nut is tight and then try to wiggle the wheel. Axle nut torque is more than 350 ft lbs (service manual will list exact value). A little play is fine. Unless the bearings are noisy when spinning (after cleaning) they seem to last forever.
@@EXOVCDS thanks alot for the reply. There wasn't any play on the passengers side before I took everything off. The driver's side does but I haven't tackled that side yet.
Thank you. It's time for me to repack my rear bearings and replace the seals before heading to Tofino. Appreciate your efforts.
Thank you for watching!
I'm aware of the 46mm torque spec (360ish ft lbs), but is it acceptable to just mark the nut to the spline shaft with a punch, before disassembly? (I have no bearing issues yet. Just want to inspect and repack.) What's stopping the bearings from being over torqued? I had the nut off yesterday to inspect my brake shoes..
I mark the nut / shaft position before removing the nut... when assembling, I gauge how much effort my impact gun takes to get the nut back to the same position. It's a "feel" that I have acquired over the years. I either end up back at the same location or I adjust accordingly (less or more tight depending on the struggle the gun has to get to the marks). I've done a lot of Vanagon rear brakes over the years and always removed the nut & hub to do so. Installed the nut as mentioned and have NEVER had any issues with bearings (new or old) failing prematurely. I might have changed less than 10 bearing sets over the last 20+ years. Good & tight is good & tight.
Hey Thomas ! Big fan, hey whats a good indicator of a faulty rear bearing, over a cv….. i have this humming rear right , like big tire tread humming, but isolated to the rear, and intermittently a click…like so infrequently , has cv issues in the past …., any advice, thank you
Humming that gets louder the faster you go is most likely a wheel bearing issue. Driving in a slalom to shift vehicle weight can cause to hum to soften & intensify (confirming wheel bearing, noisier when weight shifts to bad bearing).
You probably also have a cv joint that has a worn spot.
Inspecting the joints will tell you which one it is.
You can install the joint in the same location but flipped... so the the pitted part of the bearing is no longer on the load side of the bearing.
@@EXOVCDS ok thanks, yes the humming keeps tempo with the speed. I’ve aready bought the cvs ugh, but will inspect them when I take them off, you rock man , thanks again
@@EXOVCDS oh and weight shifting doesn’t change the noise
@StanTheMan-us3tp
Keep me posted!
Hey, what's the part number for the roller bearing? (The outer bearing). Think I damaged mine trying to take it out. Had planned to reuse it.
volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/vanagon/va/1988-78/5/501-54000/
www.germanautosupply.com/SCHAEFFLER/34/211501283D
www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/211501283D.htm?pn=211-501-283-D-INT
vwparts.aircooled.net/Wheel-Bearing-Rear-1971-92-Type-2-211-501-283D-p/211-501-283d.htm
Many more options available.
Yes. A good video, but you could mention an impotant thing:
the torque to set the 46 mm nut is 450 N.m or so, sometimes 500 N.m is mentioned. That is a lot.
I had wheelplay on side of the car. After disassembly the axel with the stub-end, it was 0.02 mm undersize, (34.98) nevertheless it was the 100% original VW part! Normally you have an interference fit, (35.00 axle and 35.00 bearing) the axle shifts with a certain pressload into the bearing.
In my undersize case the inner race of the rollerbearing tends to walk, turn slowly over the axle and the axle gets a groove in time, and spews darkred-grease out. EVEN with the 450 N.m torgue this happens.
So I had to repair a factory-out-of-tolerance part. (shame VW) The shop nearby hard chromed it en regrinded it to spec. Velden chroom techniek in Tilburg, NL, 100 Euro, nice guys.
And now this awsome bus has 405.000 km on it and amazes everybody.
Thanks for the info.
There are many things that I could / should mention... but since I record while I am at work, I can't take that extra time. Adding the "extra" information during editing would be a possibility... but time is a factor as well. If more people worked with a service manual, then less would need explaining. Cases such as yours are rare and not everyone (including myself) would have noticed, unless things had "assembled" too easily. Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for the reply. I go for the 500.000 mark. Besides that: first and original CU - engine block, 1 half and 1 complete rebuilt now. Groeten uit NL.
How do you adjust the pre-load on the bearing? How do you put the hub back in? Do you just drive it in? I would think that would be hard on the bearings.
Non-tapered roller bearings. Hub slides on nice & easy once splines are cleaned. Torque is 370 ft lbs. The inner races get squished against the spacer & hub... the tighter the better, or the nut comes loose as you saw.
Non-tapered wheel bearings? What takes the axial loads?
Garth Goldberg The inner bearing is caged / has sides around the balls, both inner & outer races... guess that takes the load. The outer bearing inner race was free to move, so it moves along with the hub as the hub is torqued into place against the spacer and the inner race of the inner bearing (which is surrounding the balls). I'm no engineer (I should have paid attention in school & during apprenticeship training). Book says install and tighten to 370 ft lbs.
370ft-lb=500Nm! Do you or the shop have a torque wrench that goes that high?
Garth Goldberg I have one that goes to 600. We use the impact on Vanagon rear bearings. Good und Tight is all it needs. Have never had a comeback.
Looks like someone didn't tighten the nut before when they did they job. Good job Thomas..
That's what I was thinking.
Should you grease the stub axel to prevent excessive wear?
You can apply a light layer of grease on the stub axle shaft... but if enough grease was placed between the bearings, that grease will do the job.
are there many VWs with wheel nuts rather than bolts??
Just the older stuff.
Thank you, very informative!. P.s is this also how you get round, metal drum plate off? Also disasembling brake system in the drum.
Yes... but the stub axle can stay on place if you need to remove the backing plate. The wheel cylinder needs to come off and the lower mount for the shoes. The shoes & brake cable... and then the backing plate should come off.
so it is pretty important to fill up grease around the spacer right? I'm worried now I didn't put enought grease..
It doesn't have to be full... but there should be a layer of grease (between the inner & outer bearing) to contact both bearings, around the inner circumference.
Nice work. I'm just looking because my van is 32 yo and stock bearings with 91000 mi. I've decided to run it until it starts making noise.? I will do my fronts, because of safety at some point soon. Probably this summer. I am using the van alot this winter to go to southrern az and worry about these things. Its worth it, I think. ??
Preventative maintenance can prevent getting stranded. =)
The rear bearings last a much longer time than the front.
Both are straight forward to change.
All the best to you for the new year!
Thank you for watching!
What if the outer barring breaks apart I had that happen on both rears any advice
Replace them.
Never did it in place but definitively looks doable this way ;)
The 46mm nut torque is 500Nm so a meter long (~3ft) breaker bar or a torque wrench for trucks is needed to torque it down.
Btw it looked like there was not enough grease in the cv joints.
I always add a bit before the install... good & tight, yes!
I need a 3 meter long bar or longer to loosen the axle nut and more heat
Quick question from an aspiring vanagon at-home mechanic.. is the rear cv axle, on a manual 2wd 87 vanagon, supposed to be able to move in and out, or "plunge" as I've heard? or is that a sign that something has gone wrong... thank your for your time!!!
Yes... it needs to, to account for wheel travel as the wheel goes up & down. Old / high mileage joints / shafts will have more freeplay (easier to move) than new joints / shafts... this is normal, but too loose is not good.
@@EXOVCDS follow up Q, if my rear passenger side has an inch of play, yet the drivers side has almost none, is that still acceptable? And if not, what is the correct repair? Repack the boot, or would I have to actually replace the whole axle on one side? Thank you so much!!!!!
The loose side is loose due to age / wear. Packing new grease might take away a bit of that looseness. The side that's tight, might be tight because the bearings have no play, or because the bearings are dry (grease has dried up). In both cases, if it hasn't been done in a while (every 5 to 8 years), remove the shafts... clean & inspect the joints and assemble with new grease (if the bearings are not pitted).
@@EXOVCDS Right on, I really appreciate your advice!!!
Cannot get anyone to answer this good question...VW mechanics and garages. I have lateral play on both sides...the same amount. NOT 12 and 6 or 9 and 3 o'clock play but only in and out. Testers will not accept this but VW testers will.
No bearing noise, no twist play, purely in and out.
Please give me your opinion what it is, as been working on this for two years. 46 mm nut tight, and no sign of brake drum, to nut play i.e. lack of washers.. Thanks.
Without seeing it / checking it myself... I can't really say. Something has to be worn. If not the bearings then possibly the housing (allowing the bearings to shift).
@@EXOVCDS Thanks appreciate the reply. Was thinking maybe the sleeve is worn allowing the movement. Will measure it on next strip down. I'll let you know in case someone else asks you. Thanks.
Great video. Any advice on re-installing the stub axle?
Insert & tap with a hammer till seated. Keep an eye on the inner race on the other side to make sure it does not pop out.
My mates t3 had play no noise and Tigh on bearing I read the hub can flog out I said I could fix it for sure but might pay to buy second new swing arm. wheel had play Top and bottom in outward direction . fitted New brakes last Automechanica in 2014 to it while I driven it in Germany.
A little ply is fine... it's a judgment call. No noise... I would just keep an eye on it.
My wheel only seems to have play when the hand brake is disengaged. Could this be the wheel bearing needs replacing?
Stuart W a little play is normal.
Thanks, I might just take it for the MOT inspection and hope for the best.
Great video. I just got finished doing my drivers side rear and when I got it back together it feels as though there is an ever so slight tiny bit of play not enough to even measure but enough that you can hear it a little bit. I hope I got it in right. Also I used an impact wrench to get the axle nut back on but I have no way to measure 350lbs as it states in the Bentley. Any thoughts on that? Getting ready to do passenger side.
A little bit of play is fine.
Those brake shoes maybe also getting a little thin?
The top is always thinner than the bottom because that's where the wheel cylinder spreads them apart... still had enough life for a while.
So, how would you describe the noise from a worn rear bearing? I have a slowly getting louder wine and vibration, pitch is constant and it is not the Rand P. The vibration is noticable at moderate speed and less at highway... my rear bearings probably have 320k miles on them...
Growling sound... may or may not change pitch when vehicle is driven in a slight slalom (change load on bearing). With that many miles... they could use regreasing at minimum, but you probably have at least one that is bad. I would replace both pairs... good for another 320K miles then. =)
Does the spacer needs a bearing or it just sits on the inside and outside bearing ? I hope I explain myself
The spacer is just a spacer... it sits between the inner & outer bearing. It is surrounded by grease.
Thomas EXOVCDS thank you so much. I am recently putting them on on my buggy which has a 1971 bus type 2. And I just couldn’t find the bearings
Just to be sure we are talking about the same thing... send me an email with pictures (if you have them) or tell me which part of the video. fkh161@fkh161.ca
Thomas EXOVCDS I sended you some pictures by email. “Vw bearings”
how did you get the stub axel back on? hammer from the inside to out?
Yes... just tap it back into place.
Did you replace the bearings... ? Could not really tell. I am pretty sure I did not see you replace the races. New bearings and old races? that is ok?
The bearings come with outer & inner races. The inner bearing is one "piece"... you can not remove the inner race without breaking the bearing. The outer bearing has an inner race that is a sleeve... inner & outer bearings are NEW.
Müssen die Lager nicht eingepresst werden ?
Geht auch mit hammer und passende scheibe.
www.lislecorp.com/media/products/12600c_FA030A064235A.jpg?dimensions=500x220
Are the back nuts sure 46 ?because I remember 36 (I can't remind stuff like this easy)
Vanagon's have 46.
Thomas EXOVCDS probably messed it upbeith the beetle,but thanks !
What do you use to torque the rear axles nut back to proper torque?
A big torque wrench.
@@EXOVCDS i can’t find one to go that high. Most I find is 250ft/pound.
I have a 46mm 1” socket from my beetle but I can’t find the wrench.
@@zoti this is what I use... it goes to 600 ft lbs
www.princessauto.com/en/3-4-in-dr-heavy-duty-click-type-torque-wrench/product/PA0008002384
do i need to adjust the handbrake after replacing drum and pads?if yes how to exactly
You need to loosen the hand brake, install the new brake shoe, install the drum, adjust the brake shoes so that there is a little bit of drag on the drum, then you adjust the hand brake until you get 3 to 5 clicks. Release the hand brake and check that the drums are free to turn. Follow the brake cables to the middle of the car... there is a 10mm nut that you turn, to loosen or tighten the cables.
im getting one click now ,bad?
Did you loosen the hand brake before adjusting the shoes? Are the drums dragging? You can leave it at 1... as the brakes wear, you will get more clicks.
Thomas EXOVCDS checked it 3 clicks ,but they should be seized (not 100/100 something like 80/100 seized)
Κώστας Λεούσης new shoes might take a while before they grab well. Don't adjust the shoes or the parking brake too tight... or things will overheat. Leave it at 3 clicks (as long as you can still turn the wheels when the hand brake is off) and let the brakes wear-in. If you don't drive it much / far... then it will take some time before things might get better.
Great video. Super helpful. Appreciate it
Thank you for watching!
All the red rust on the rim from the bearing I guess.
+STEVE ROB Mainly from the stub axle splines rubbing against the hub splines. The outer bearing was dry though.
Nice video ,and thanks for the tip about reversing the axle for longer life..
Thank you for watching... I was actually wrong in saying that. The loaded surfaces remain the same, due to the way the joints are driven. Outer race pushes on inner race (inner bearing), inner race pushes on outer race (outer bearing). When you swap sides, then the same this is happening. I should have moved the axle to the driver side, keeping the inner joint on the inside, then the load would be on the other side of the bearing. Gets confusing, that's why I keep making the mistake. D'Oh!
it makes sense, thanks
Hi Thomas, is it normal for the new bearings to have slight play? I have an MOT advisorie for old ones, I checked them myself by jacking up and rocking top to bottom and it really is tiny, feels like a mm. Hard to convey on here. But many people in forums said after fiting the new ones it was the same! You said further down they should last another 320k, I assume you just meant alot, my van has been off the road 20 years and is only showing 60k if that is correct. Cheers.
I always feel a little play on rear wheel bearings of Vanagon's... the MOT guy might have been a new guy or jealous of your T3.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks, I since spoke to the older guy who runs the garage and he said I don't need to change them.
thank you for the video, I enjoyed it and learned. viewer from Taiwan
Thank you for watching!
as always, another awesome job helping those of us out here that like to see things done the right way and learn a few things along the way as well! thank you! I have to ask though, how do i get MC HAMMER dancing on my videos? LOL had me laughing!
That's easy... LOL.
Step 1: use hammer or have hammer sound in the background of the video
Step 2: download GIF: i.imgur.com/WfW2U.gif
Step 3: insert into video
Thank you for watching!
So the axle can go either way. Interesting. Eric O is using Harbor Freight electric impacts. He says they r fine. Milwaukee jacked u up. I don’t like that they treated an excellent ad source like that. B&L from across the pond needs to make a fuss. With his disarming good looks, something might happen
He charges too much for PR work... the photos he gives away for free! =)
Thomas, you rock. You make it look so simple! Thanks for so many great videos on how to work on these old beasts. Love it!
Thank you, kind of you to say! Thank you for watching!
Good video. I really would have liked to have seen the re-install along with the removal. -John
Too many critics that watch my videos (not you)... don't need to deal with "should have, could have etc". Sometimes I show the assembly... I also don't want to be liable for someone following my "installation"... screwing up & blaming me. Hmm, maybe I'll open a second channel... paid channel, where the assembly is shown. Only those truly interested in the assembly would bother subscribing. LOL
***** Oh ok. I understand.
Saved me a bunch of time thanks
Nice to hear... thank you for watching!
Nice work! Another great video.
Thanks and thank you for dropping in!
Nice video.I think the rust was a dead give away.
I really enjoyed that video
Thank you for your time
Look forward to meeting you
Thank you... what do you see mainly at your shop? So that I can pick your brain if I run into something that you might deal with more than myself.
thank you for your work and recording and putting here Sir, please keep up with t3 :)
Thank you and thank you for watching! I will ty to continue to supply T3 content! =)
May i request something additional, can you please write the exact problem, how to notice it and what are the complains that will address the exact repair job in the video descriptions below :). The reason why i say this is, for example this video we can see how to remove rear wheel bearing but i cant understand how did you diagnosed the problem was about that. To be more spesific i am not an expert so when i hear a sound or realise something is wrong i cant address the issue. Can you please put something about the problem also so when we have the same problem we can know how to fix it :). This way i can watch a solution but i cant figure out which problem leads us to that solution. Thank you
Kind Regards :)
Thank you for your input... I understand what you mean. Because I record while I work, I don't always record the actual diagnosis. I tend to just record the removal of what the issue is. A noisy wheel bearing should be easy / straight forward to diagnose (rumble / growing sound from the rear when the vehicle is moving... the faster the vehicle, the louder the sound). It is easier and more time efficient for me, to reply to comments... rather than try to record, describe or leave reasons for the repair in the description or in the video. Video editing takes enough time... making the video longer (to describe the reason for the repair) or to add a "before" & "after" sounds, takes more time than I want to add to each video. Most people don't watch my videos from start to finish... so extra work for something that is not being watch, does not make sense to me at this point. Maybe sometime in the future, when I am working out of my own warehouse (similar to Eric The Car Guy), I can the spend more time on each repair, to cover all the important bits & sounds.
thanks for posting this helpfull video.
Thank you for watching!
Good video I have never seen that job done either !
Bonsoir les fusser avant
Je suis désolé, je ne comprends pas. J'utilise google translate pour traduire.
very very cool I have never been before
Hi Justin... these bearing last a long time! I think I only ever changed 5 sets so far.
Go Hammer Yo Hammer lol love the little guy that pops up Lmfao
Thank you for watching!
OH MY GOD your MC HAMMER Graphic kills me. lol
Thank you and thank you for watching!
MC hammer should watch your video. lol
He should do a video intro for me... You're watching EXOVCDS and it's Hammer Time!
46mm hub nut holy crap!
Remember the Jack-Hammer in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/oxnODwbICzM/v-deo.html
That's what one of the guys was tightening.
Sounds like a 3/4" or 1" gun.. Wow!! What's the torque sequence?
StopDropandLOL Was a 1/2" gun... he wasn't using a torque sequence. Was tightening away until the cotter pin hole in the stub axle lined-up with the nut. Torque spec is 500 Nm / 370 ft lbs
So how long of a torque wrench do you need to get 370ftlbs out of it? Or do you guys use strictly the impact for that one?
The gun sounded a lot bigger than it did too haha.
Very nice video though:
Thank you for watching!
A big THUMBS DOWN!!
At 3:26 you just jumped past removing the 46mm castle nut at the center of the rear brake hub.
It's a challenge, and should have been part of the video!
That's a FAIL!!!
If you don't know how to use a socket & breaker bar... you have bigger problems than not seeing me use them.
Just for you!
ua-cam.com/video/Ebf5TsP9gjY/v-deo.html
@@EXOVCDS It's quite well known that it takes a 46mm socket, and is very difficult to remove hence skipping over it may have led others to think it was super easy to remove.
Should have used a sledgehammer hammer was to small
I should be married and have 2 kids and a dog... life is hard. =)
В руки насрать тому конструктору, который такие подшипники туда придумал!
Спасибо за просмотр
This is perhaps the wrong way of doing it. Once I saw the hammer head hit the axle and ruin the threads the video lost its technical credibility
There is a much easier way. Without removing the axle if you are replacing the bearings and seals
Instead of posting "I can do it better" comments under videos... record & post videos yourself. Oh wait, you don't want to deal with smartasses that post "I can do it better than you".
Rest assured, no threads were harmed.
Gut und tight being 360ft-lbs, or about 500nm 😆
Yes... or when the face starts to turn red. =)