A little thing I learned as an Air Force mechanic. ALWAYS pull a torque wrench never push. In fact this applies to all wrenches. Do it this way assures that you'll never bust your knuckles!
I liked the video very much. I have a 1974 750 that has been sitting for 12 years and it is a complete bike and engine. I wish I could find someone to help with the knowledge you have . And locating parts. Thanks for the information.
Troy Buhay . I'M Certain shifter was on left as normal. I believe there was a linkage and shaft that connected to right side shift shaft. I owned an old school H2.
It was actually left foot shift. The did run the shift arm shaft out the right also, for some weird races they had in Japan. They even had a right/left conversion kit.
I wish this was a distributor triple. I need help timing my h1c. It looks the same but instead of a spacer ring over the primary drive gear (which yours looks missing) mine is an additional drive gear that powers the distributor gear when you put the clutch cover on.
Hi Johnny....... 1rst, sorry my english.... do you know what's the clearance (inside) between piston and cylinder.....STD bore. Kawa H2 750 1973. Thank you, Ronan (Brasil).
great video, bought H1, the engine been rebuilt however notice the kick start not engaging after 4 swings the kickstart engages. could it be the spring tension?
Not likely unfortunately. The springs are either wound too tight and break, the insert in the spring is in the wrong way, or the tangs are not located correctly in the cases. Rarely, the bearing locator pin gets pushed in the cases and the shaft moves.
Does the kick start return? You can reset the kick start by removing the clutch cover and then remove the 18 mm bolt that locks the kick start spring. Wind the kick start shaft (about 120 degrees) and then replace the lock bolt.
What is it about the pressure plate that makes it work differently if it's not lined up properly? I was completely prepared to treat it like it was all symmetrical. I have an S-series, fwiw. Also, too bloody right about thy cylinders corroding onto the studs. Dear sweet cranberry-flavored God was one of them stuck on mine. Easily could have lifted the whole bike into the air on the cylinder. We tried big hammers and everything; ended up bending an exhaust stud all to hell. Ultimately what worked was tapping the holes in the cylinder and essentially turning the jug into its own puller. I told my machine shop guy about the ordeal and he said, "Be glad it wasn't a Husqvarna, they're the worst!" After I finish this triple and the Maico, sure enough I do have a Husqvarna waiting for a top end. Hoping to hell that when my dad and neighbor put that thing together back when I was in middle school, they had the foresight to apply some grease or anti-seize.
The pressure plates are clocked in with teeth, so if not in that one position the spring cups are just out of alignment with the spring posts, and you get clutch drag from it. And triple cylinders have shattered in press before they came free, which they still didn't. Always a bit of anti seize at the bottom of the studs. And rub in some anti seize in the base gaskets too! No more scraping off those gaskets! Good luck with the Husky!
@@johnnydanger57 Got the cases together yesterday, now today's mission is following this video. I really can't tell you enough how helpful these are. Thanks for the work, John.
@@johnnydanger57 You weren't kidding about taking the clutch bolt heads off. Tried the choked-up snug procedure and it snapped like a pretzel. Turns out S-series calls for just 3ft-lbs vs 5 on the H-series. Back to the hardware store.
Thanks. I'll assemble and try it out dry, see what I think. May have to remove the hub and take the extra 0.25mm off. Otherwise it could creep, hard to find neutral etc :(
Mostly just want to make sure you can get engine parts for it the one I’m buying the bottom end had been redone but the top end still needs done. He bought pistons to bore it .80 over and I would like to leave it stock. Are there any places that make aftermarket stuff for them?
You still aren't giving me any information, What aftermarket "stuff"? There are many different chambers, and carbs, I do reed valve conversions. You said you want to leave it stock, so none of that is stock. .080" over usually leaves super thin sleeves that have a tendency to crack, so watch out for that.
Hey Paul, I have used them, many do. I don't see a problem with them. You do need sealer. I do prefer stock as they do compress and fill any minor imperfections in the mating surfaces.
G'day Johnny, appreciate it. as of recently I used copper spray on base and head gaskets, so far on an air-cooled RD350 resto-mod. The cases on the RD get pretty hot; worried me about the MZB ignition, but it's going strong !. Thanks. Nearly forgot; where can I get aluminium H1 "steels" for the H2 clutch please ?. Paul
Johnny, is that engine modified for rubber mounts ? or is it a later engine, which has them anyway ?. I have a 1971 H2' i'd love to rubber mount it :) . Paul
Ok, sad. Please who sells aluminium "steel" plates for the H2 ? Please. Well H1 thinner actually , as I want to do the 7 plate conversion. keen . Thanks ! Paul
This is invaluable info. A few more years and there may be nobody in the world that knows this stuff.
A little thing I learned as an Air Force mechanic. ALWAYS pull a torque wrench never push. In fact this applies to all wrenches. Do it this way assures that you'll never bust your knuckles!
Thank you for sharing. We don't do it all the time. A very GOOD refresher, for when we do! Thanks Robert Shaw
I liked the video very much. I have a 1974 750 that has been sitting for 12 years and it is a complete bike and engine. I wish I could find someone to help with the knowledge you have . And locating parts. Thanks for the information.
Man a right side shifter...bet that takes some getting used to. Thanks for posting such thorough videos
Thanks, glad to help when I can!
Troy Buhay .
I'M Certain shifter was on left as normal. I believe there was a linkage and shaft that connected to right side shift shaft. I owned an old school H2.
It was actually left foot shift. The did run the shift arm shaft out the right also, for some weird races they had in Japan. They even had a right/left conversion kit.
anti-seize on paper gaskets thats a good tip i hate getting those things off when they are stuck on there, cheers!
7 vvvgggg
Great vid ,very helpful,now my dimple lines up with my nubbin.
Great video and knowledge sharing!
good one Moo - thanks for all you do!!!!
Thanks Barry!
Bot a brand new H2 in 75 for $1,800. Had to sell it soon after. Probably saved my life.
Hi johnny danger 57
great job. About torque on the bolts, crank, clutch, pinion, can you tell? Thank you. Ronan
Thanks! The clutch hub nut and crank nut, I use 70lb/ft. Clean threads and blue loctite.
I wish this was a distributor triple. I need help timing my h1c. It looks the same but instead of a spacer ring over the primary drive gear (which yours looks missing) mine is an additional drive gear that powers the distributor gear when you put the clutch cover on.
It's in the factory manual, and the manual is on the internet.
awesome ..wish you were my neighbor.
Well, now you got me right in your garage....LOL
Hi Johnny....... 1rst, sorry my english.... do you know what's the clearance (inside) between piston and cylinder.....STD bore. Kawa H2 750 1973. Thank you, Ronan (Brasil).
Not off the top of my head, but here is the manual online, my friend.
www.kawatriple.com/manuals/hseries/choice.htm
great video, bought H1, the engine been rebuilt however notice the kick start not engaging after 4 swings the kickstart engages.
could it be the spring tension?
Not likely unfortunately. The springs are either wound too tight and break, the insert in the spring is in the wrong way, or the tangs are not located correctly in the cases. Rarely, the bearing locator pin gets pushed in the cases and the shaft moves.
Does the kick start return? You can reset the kick start by removing the clutch cover and then remove the 18 mm bolt that locks the kick start spring. Wind the kick start shaft (about 120 degrees) and then replace the lock bolt.
Hi Johnny. Do you know where you can get parts still for these engines. I have one I want to rebuild. Thanks
New parts, midatlantic, jessbikes, diablo. Used parts triplestuff.net
What is it about the pressure plate that makes it work differently if it's not lined up properly? I was completely prepared to treat it like it was all symmetrical. I have an S-series, fwiw.
Also, too bloody right about thy cylinders corroding onto the studs. Dear sweet cranberry-flavored God was one of them stuck on mine. Easily could have lifted the whole bike into the air on the cylinder. We tried big hammers and everything; ended up bending an exhaust stud all to hell. Ultimately what worked was tapping the holes in the cylinder and essentially turning the jug into its own puller. I told my machine shop guy about the ordeal and he said, "Be glad it wasn't a Husqvarna, they're the worst!" After I finish this triple and the Maico, sure enough I do have a Husqvarna waiting for a top end. Hoping to hell that when my dad and neighbor put that thing together back when I was in middle school, they had the foresight to apply some grease or anti-seize.
The pressure plates are clocked in with teeth, so if not in that one position the spring cups are just out of alignment with the spring posts, and you get clutch drag from it.
And triple cylinders have shattered in press before they came free, which they still didn't. Always a bit of anti seize at the bottom of the studs. And rub in some anti seize in the base gaskets too! No more scraping off those gaskets! Good luck with the Husky!
@@johnnydanger57 Got the cases together yesterday, now today's mission is following this video. I really can't tell you enough how helpful these are. Thanks for the work, John.
@@JETZcorp Always glad to help, my friend!
@@johnnydanger57 You weren't kidding about taking the clutch bolt heads off. Tried the choked-up snug procedure and it snapped like a pretzel. Turns out S-series calls for just 3ft-lbs vs 5 on the H-series. Back to the hardware store.
Thanks. I'll assemble and try it out dry, see what I think. May have to remove the hub and take the extra 0.25mm off. Otherwise it could creep, hard to find neutral etc :(
It might work just fine also. just make sure the tangs aren't to close to the edge of the outer basket fingers..
I see what you mean. Particularly in the bottom area of the "U" between the fingers of outer hub. I'll check it all out.
Thanks ! :)
You will get it! You are welcome my friend, glad to help!
Hey I am buying a 1975 Kawasaki triple 750 h2. I was wondering if you know were to get parts for them
There are a few places, just depends on what you are looking for.
triplestuff.net/index.html
Mostly just want to make sure you can get engine parts for it the one I’m buying the bottom end had been redone but the top end still needs done. He bought pistons to bore it .80 over and I would like to leave it stock. Are there any places that make aftermarket stuff for them?
You still aren't giving me any information, What aftermarket "stuff"? There are many different chambers, and carbs, I do reed valve conversions. You said you want to leave it stock, so none of that is stock. .080" over usually leaves super thin sleeves that have a tendency to crack, so watch out for that.
Last question Johnny: Copper base gaskets, for street use. Good or damaging to lower motor electronics, seals etc ? Really appreciate it !!. Paul
Hey Paul, I have used them, many do. I don't see a problem with them. You do need sealer. I do prefer stock as they do compress and fill any minor imperfections in the mating surfaces.
G'day Johnny, appreciate it. as of recently I used copper spray on base and head gaskets, so far on an air-cooled RD350 resto-mod. The cases on the RD get pretty hot; worried me about the MZB ignition, but it's going strong !. Thanks. Nearly forgot; where can I get aluminium H1 "steels" for the H2 clutch please ?. Paul
Johnny, is that engine modified for rubber mounts ? or is it a later engine, which has them anyway ?. I have a 1971 H2' i'd love to rubber mount it :) . Paul
I did convert to rubber mounts, BUT it can only be done on 74-75 cases as they have larger motor mount bosses.
Ok, sad. Please who sells aluminium "steel" plates for the H2 ? Please. Well H1 thinner actually , as I want to do the 7 plate conversion. keen . Thanks ! Paul
Barnett used to, but I don't think they do anymore. They do have steels in different thicknesses.
what do ya think clymer manual or ????
There are factory manuals on line
3/4 of a mm (0.75mm ? machined off the nub ?!.. I thought it 0.5mm .....
I was thought .75mm (.030" actually) so that is what I do.