buttoning up a Kawasaki 750 2 stroke triple bottom end
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- Опубліковано 11 чер 2014
- As usual use at your own discretion.
Consult an expert if you are lost with all this. A manual is very highly recommended.
This forum is the best for U.S. triple help, kawi2strokes.com/forum - Авто та транспорт
I have done that too when I was young, I can still remember every single screw of that engine but I have forgotten what I had for dinner yesterday:
Strange when you become old
Hallo Johnnydanger57!
i must say a big thank you for all of the videos of rebuild an H2 engine! i have now done 2 engines,
have never ever take a H2 750 -72 two stroke engine apart before! works like a charm following your videos! The Best!
Big thank you from Hans Astrom Sweden
Thank you sir! That's why I do the videos, to help you guys out!
I have had so many bikes but the only one that has become a recurring dream is my 73 Blue H2. No kidding I actually dream about the bike. Dad had a 74 gold color. I've had FJ and Busa but never forgot the H2. Had an H1 but the H2 was the bomb. Great to see your work to protect the marque. Thanks so much.
Great video mate, cheers for sharing!
Thanks for this excellent video. It will help a lot when I start assembling my H2 motor.
That's why I do these videos. When I was learning there wasn't anything more than a manual, and they leave something to be desired. Glad to be a help!
Invaluable video thanks, give me a bit of confidence to do mine
Thanks again Phil
Glad to be of help!
Thanks for posting this. It helped me big time.
Glad to help! Why I do these vids!
Just as an option ...
Since loktite won't dry with air present, I did a thin layer of RED loktite applied with a Q-tip on the bottom half. After I put the loktite on, I then applied the case sealant. Putting on the case sealant was the most nerve racking part.
The red and blue can be used, if properly done, by someone that has mechanical experience. But not for a beginner. I just don't think they are a good choice for this application, things feel a bit too rushed, for me. And loctite will dry in air, leave a drop out somewhere,.....
Thank you for this Video 🙏
Always glad to help!
good vid
got a few 500 triples, all in parts hopefully will learn something
That's why I do the videos! Always glad to help triple guys.
Thanks for the video - I'm about to put my A7 engine back together. What case sealer do you use?
Sure, glad to help! And I use threebond 1184.
Fantastic!
Glad to be of help.......
Little question: I took apart my engine recently (probably first time it was ever taken apart). I had the crankshaft redone with new bearings. How about the transmission if it looks good? Do you change the bearings? Thanks for your videos, I don't know what I would do without them!
Hey Chris, glad to be of help. Some think it's a good idea to always replace all the bearings. I personally found, if they feel smooth and not a lot of side play they are fine.
I misread and misunderstood and I think I managed to snap a stud on my A7. I torqued up one of the small studs to 12ft/lb, or at least tried to before it snapped. So frustrating, this project is a first for me and despite taking everything slowly I am still making a lot of mistakes.
Take note people, those small studs with the 10mm nuts can't take a lot of force, so take it easy on them.
At this point I'm tempted to leave the snapped stud rather than pull everything apart again. I know this is probably a stupid approach but I'm at the end of my tether. It's the stud just over the gearbox oil seal so it'd be interesting to see if it leaked.
That sucks. It is iffy to leave one out. Maybe step back and take a break. I can't do much more on the video's. I warn people not to over torque the small nuts, and you can see, I am not putting a lot of effort to tighten them down.
I love your videos and forum contributions. This stud was merely a misjudgment and a matter of me not taking enough time to think. I heard a crack, but the nut/stud didnt get loose - mind you I didn't try my luck either, I'm kind of just leaving it there to see what happens. I think I also managed to ruin the shift shaft oil seal, but I have a spare.
I think you're right - I need to take a break and remember why I'm doing this....
Chris Doms Half the fun (to me) is working on the bikes. When I get frustrated, I'm not having fun, so I just do something else. Don't rush it, it will be more fun in the end. Good skill getting her done..........
'72 H2 here. Love those aluminum seals! Who knew? I'm inspired. '06 R1 until the Kaw is done. www.cycletrader.com/listing/-122733082
Hi Johnny, about torque on stud nuts, (in vídeo: 22:14 to 24:07) 1rst and 2nd step, how many pounds? I'm from Brasil and my bike is a KW H2 750 1973. Thank you. Ronan
Hey sniper,
I have been doing this forever, and go by "feel" on the ratchet on the first tighten. That ends up being 12lb/ft. Some go to 15 lb/ft, I just go to 18lb/ft.
Please describe the aluminum labyrinth seals in greater details and where can we get them? Is there a toyo seal division for motorcycles?
+bruceekinghotmailcom
The labyrinth seals are pretty cool in how they work. Combining a small clearance with channels cut in the aluminum, literally keeps the pressure and vacuum separated between each crankcase. (for the short amount of time of each crank revolution) Most all multicylinder 2 stroke race engines use them, as have the Yamaha RD's/RZs. I don't know of any that are sold separately for the triples. Charlie Smith does my crank rebuilding and supplies them with his rebuilds.
+Aylor Engineering. Thanks for the reply I have 2 crankshafts to work with. Since I inhearted a press and other tools I thought I might give it a go. I don't think Charlie will tell me his supplier for crank parts. I would like to get his contact info to see if he would check my work??ThanksBruce
e mail me at johnayleng@aol.com for Charlies info
Going to be reassembling my 400 soon. I think I'll probably have a heart attack or two during the process.
Always looks a lot harder than it is.
@@johnnydanger57 Yeah I just need to sack up and do it. I need to finish up this triple and then do my Maico or else this is going to be one lame Summer.
G'day Johnny, the output shaft roller bearing outer is back to front. Notches should be facing the shims. Did you correct before close her up ?
Hey Jian,
As I said in the video, they are asymmetrical, so that was the way I needed to install it for proper clearance. It doesn't matter which way it goes, oil gets in either way. I recommend you reassemble as it came apart if there has been no shim adjustments.
Some neanderthal had been there before. I found some NOS bearing outers and managed to get really good clearances on the shim job. Question please : only loctite one of the cases for the crank bearings ? Thanks. Paul
It could be a couple of things, as factory shimming was rather lax. I try them both ways just to check clearances, so maybe it was just better clearance the way I did it. As I wrote, it really doesn't matter, as long as the clearance is good. And I just loctite one side, as it's a pain to try and get the cases apart with both sides "glued".
I suspected so. Thanks Johnny. All the best. Paul (Jian is my wife)
OOPS! cool Paul.
Nice but I Want to see it all
Install of gearbox, shifter, forks.
You skipped that
ua-cam.com/video/mcNc0NAn2tY/v-deo.html
Look under my other channel Aylor Engineering.
Hi Johnny.....please and about torque on heads?, how many LB? thank you, Ronan
The factory 29-30 lb/ft actually distorts the cylinders. Most don't go over 25 lb/ft. Anneal even new gaskets to soften and use copper coat. Re torque after each cool down until torque settles.
@@johnnydanger57 Hi Johnny, thanks for your kindness..........I have another problem....I don't know what's the correct sequence to install the pinion parts, (oring, spacer, seal)? Thanks again, Ronan
On the crank?
I have a 72 H-2 the engine has never been opened, what would the cost be roughly to do all that work....rebuild the whole engine.. crank.. cleaning of all the cases and possible painting them.Thanks for your video.
That's a bit tough, the variables are if the rods are reusable or not. So the crank rebuild can vary from 4 to 700.00. The transmissions "usually" have some sort of damage, that can run a few 100.00.Clutch parts 100,00 or so, Tearing everything apart, cleaning and reassembly is just dependent on time needed. Around 10 hours, or 500.00. Pistons 400,00, boring 150.00 Gaskets and seals 100.00 or so.This plus a few hours either way would be a baseline.
I know this video is old. Recently purchased a widow maker and working on a rebuild soon. Haven’t taken apart yet so haven’t seen the damage. Was curious if there’s info for Charlie the rebuilder Incase I need to reach out for some work. Appreciate any response if any 🙏🤟🤟🤟
Are you on facebook by chance? I don't like to give out information here.
johnnydanger57 yessir. Joseph pompilio is my Facebook brother. 👍👍 I appreciate the response
Which one, there are a few....lol. Actually just look up charlie Smith. He literally looks like Santa Claus in his profile pic.
johnnydanger57 I was unable to find him brother 😭 facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000256134244 that’s a link to my page tho! Took me a couple days to find that one 🤣
@@Ocgt sent you a FB pm
Word of advice. Blue Loctite those seals on the outside. They like to get blown out of the case.
Might be an idea, I personally haven't had one blow out, nor have heard of a problem of them blowing out in my 40 plus years messing with these guys. i think I have only heard of one instance.
johnnydanger57
I had to replace them 4 times. As the people that had them were using them for drag bikes... You're not going to see it much with street riders. They never run them to their full potential. As most got scared of them...
There are always going to be special situations where different procedures are needed, as in drag racing. But for the majority of triple guys, they kind of usage is very small, so not something I recommend for the average guys. As seals do get old and the locktite will make it more difficult to remove the seals for replacement.
johnnydanger57
Just giving an FYI if someone wants to crank on these widow makers. As that seal blows out. It spits oil all over the place and for some damn reason, it finds the back tire first...
The last one I seen sucked the clutch dry and still ran. But the exhaust was filled with oil like a fire hose...