Just an FYI for anyone watching this, the compressor used in this video is inadequate for ANY type of media blasting. Maybe fill some tires or pool toys? no insult intended here. Even with the smallest pot you need at least 18 to 22 SCFM @ 90 psi for it to work properly. We have the large 110lb pot and for us to keep working for longer than 30 minutes at a time, we use 2 compressors. One has a 60 gallon tank providing 16.5 SCFM@90 psi and the other an 80 gallon providing 22 SCFM@ 90 psi and both are 2 stage units. We do not run out of air, even when others in the shop are using air tools etc. and all air is run through a copper coil that cools and removes moisture. Water in any portion of your setup will kill any sand blasting. Also, the pressure in the pot needs a separate regulator with gauge to allow control over how much media gets pushed out of the bottom. With this setup we can actually work instead of constantly stopping to fix clogs or get the media fl;owing properly. One more thing, DO NOT USE PLAY SAND!!! It has rocks in it larger than the openings in the tank. It also has a very fine dust in it that will destroy your lungs. There are quite a few videos that show you everything you need to do so that you can work instead of cursing and fixing Lol.
Always remember to have the blaster tip valve wide open, or completely closed. In time, the blast media will wear down the brass valve ball, and you will have to replace it frequently. Use the valve at the top of the red hose to change the air pressure of the feed line. You can use the valve at the bottom to control the volume of media. However, you do not want to run it that way below half full. The same erosion will elicit the same valve wear. Get a cheap plastic or rubber dead blow hammer, and periodically tap the tank to discern the level in the tank. You'll be able to hear the difference. Tapping the side of the tank will dislodge any media stuck to the sides of the tank as well. Moisture: Spend the money to purchase an in line drying solution. Mount it as close to the tank as is possible. Last thoughts: Get a full face respirator, you'll thank me. They are around $35, with cartridges. The self sticking acrylic peel away sheets are rather inexpensive. I did end up replacing all the brass 3/8 npt valves on my rig with stainless 1/2 npt valves, along with the bottom feed valve. You can pick up a drill and tap set for the bottom hole for around $15. No more clogging, and no more fiddling with the valves.
Some iron blasting sediments have water prevention oils added in small amounts to prevent rusting in transit which is why you degrease. Sanding is intended for heavy sediments that leaves pitting
Excellent vid, covered pretty much everything I wanted to know, what power compressor would you recommend, I guess the tank is about 20 / 24 litres.. Greetings from the U K
Hey young man how's it working for you after 9 months since you posted this video? Locally we get the small coal media from Tractor supply think it runs about $8 to $9 for a 50 lb. Bag and it's seems the best one to use on these as per other tutorials I've seen. 😊
@@Random_Car_Guy While it has corrosion protection properties weld through primer really isn't meant to be used or sanded like a DTM primer surfacer. DTM primers hide flaws and provide build. Weld through primer does not. You'd really only use weld through primer to protect bare metal surfaces that are being welded together.
Princess Auto $150 for a much better sand plaster. Use fine glass beads, sand is now banned in Canada because of the silica. Try supporting Canadian businesses not eBay crap.
![Customer States & Mechanical Fails [Ep 44] #mechanic #fails #cs](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VNA5ov1sZHo/mqdefault.jpg)
Just an FYI for anyone watching this, the compressor used in this video is inadequate for ANY type of media blasting. Maybe fill some tires or pool toys? no insult intended here. Even with the smallest pot you need at least 18 to 22 SCFM @ 90 psi for it to work properly. We have the large 110lb pot and for us to keep working for longer than 30 minutes at a time, we use 2 compressors.
One has a 60 gallon tank providing 16.5 SCFM@90 psi and the other an 80 gallon providing 22 SCFM@ 90 psi and both are 2 stage units. We do not run out of air, even when others in the shop are using air tools etc. and all air is run through a copper coil that cools and removes moisture. Water in any portion of your setup will kill any sand blasting.
Also, the pressure in the pot needs a separate regulator with gauge to allow control over how much media gets pushed out of the bottom. With this setup we can actually work instead of constantly stopping to fix clogs or get the media fl;owing properly. One more thing, DO NOT USE PLAY SAND!!! It has rocks in it larger than the openings in the tank. It also has a very fine dust in it that will destroy your lungs. There are quite a few videos that show you everything you need to do so that you can work instead of cursing and fixing Lol.
Always remember to have the blaster tip valve wide open, or completely closed. In time, the blast media will wear down the brass valve ball, and you will have to replace it frequently. Use the valve at the top of the red hose to change the air pressure of the feed line. You can use the valve at the bottom to control the volume of media. However, you do not want to run it that way below half full. The same erosion will elicit the same valve wear. Get a cheap plastic or rubber dead blow hammer, and periodically tap the tank to discern the level in the tank. You'll be able to hear the difference. Tapping the side of the tank will dislodge any media stuck to the sides of the tank as well. Moisture: Spend the money to purchase an in line drying solution. Mount it as close to the tank as is possible. Last thoughts: Get a full face respirator, you'll thank me. They are around $35, with cartridges. The self sticking acrylic peel away sheets are rather inexpensive. I did end up replacing all the brass 3/8 npt valves on my rig with stainless 1/2 npt valves, along with the bottom feed valve. You can pick up a drill and tap set for the bottom hole for around $15. No more clogging, and no more fiddling with the valves.
yea an it was probably slow because of a small compressor, if you test it with 100psi at 11cfm I think that should be fairly fast
You don't need to sand metal after sandblasting, you can directly prime it after blasting it in fact you don't even need to degrease it
Some iron blasting sediments have water prevention oils added in small amounts to prevent rusting in transit which is why you degrease. Sanding is intended for heavy sediments that leaves pitting
@@samwhite1345 yeah If it's iron fair enough but if you use pure crushed glass there should be no problem as I always do 👍
@@hserieshooligan1997 yeah your right about that I'd still run a tack cloth over it first just to clear dust before priming
@@samwhite1345 I probably should still degrease I've reused the glass quite a number of times off the shed floor lol
Excellent vid, covered pretty much everything I wanted to know, what power compressor would you recommend, I guess the tank is about 20 / 24 litres.. Greetings from the U K
Hey young man how's it working for you after 9 months since you posted this video? Locally we get the small coal media from Tractor supply think it runs about $8 to $9 for a 50 lb. Bag and it's seems the best one to use on these as per other tutorials I've seen. 😊
Really great overview of this blaster. Very helpful
How many SCFM is your compressor?
Great demonstration, thanks for your excellent presentation.
I've lost part 13 and now im fucked and need to buy another complete unit... weld a chain on it to the tank or don't have kids.
Thanks a lot
Take a small quarts light and drop it into the tank for a half an hour before you start to get rid of the moisture.
Once you're finished media blasting, use DTM within 30 minutes, so as to avoid oxidation. You're welcome😮
Whats dtm?
@@Random_Car_Guy Direct To Metal primer
@@ehss192 Can weld trough primer work also
@@Random_Car_Guy While it has corrosion protection properties weld through primer really isn't meant to be used or sanded like a DTM primer surfacer. DTM primers hide flaws and provide build. Weld through primer does not. You'd really only use weld through primer to protect bare metal surfaces that are being welded together.
@@ehss192 Thx for the info
Princess Auto $150 for a much better sand plaster. Use fine glass beads, sand is now banned in Canada because of the silica. Try supporting Canadian businesses not eBay crap.
Wouldn’t it be cheaper and far less effort to just dump the part in a bath of something that eats paint?