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the frame looks rusty already.. I was a quality control supervisor at an oil platform factory. They use sandblasting for pretty much everything that needs to be coated. I wouldn´t even let them get near the sandblaster if the relative humidity was above certain level let alone get the sandblasted metal get wet or even be touched with bare hands. Sure, a car frame is not going to explode if some rust gets trapped but... I wonder how did you remove the rust before coating the frame?
Yo. I know you know about eastwood products. I had rust on my 2006 Chevy Van's roof (like they all get) and used an SCT from eastwood. it's short for Surface Conditioning Tool. It's hard to say whether sandblasting would've been faster or slower ... but in your face for the under-side, I think it's by far the best product with the abrasive wheel they recommended for me. I think the abrasive was either 80 or 120 grit. Which I then used with their epoxy primer which did a pretty good job.
Alex: When he bought the truck: It needs JUST A BIT OF WORK When he discovered the bad head gaskets: Let's replace the HGs When he discovered the bad engine: Let's build a forged rotating assembly When he took the engine out: Let's do a frame-off restoration
I'm mad at Peter tbh. They had a great thing going and he fucked up. I liked seeing him on the channel. It's too bad some people just can't keep it together. Oh well.
@ GldRush98, check out Steve Summers channel. He has recently done the same thing for blasting parts on his 80's Chevy Square body rebuild. A real nice guy( I visited his shop and met him while on holiday in the states from the UK back in March)
It Happens... 😆 Never seen a Wet Sandblasting like that.. 👀 I have a nice Air pressured Sandblaster tank; but, it's only practical for Small areas.. it Devours Air and I Hate the Dust.
I love that any build on UA-cam I watch has a garage that looks as destroyed as mine while in project mode. You can tell who does work by how the garage looks. I really need to spend a good hour on my garage to get it in order.
I need to spend an hour psyching myself up to plan out what I would need to do to get my garage in order...ohh look, Engine Masters has a new episode....Yea, garage is not getting organized soon.
This is why I love watching your channel. Instead of plunking down a few thousand to get it done professionally like most big UA-camrs would, you roll up your sleeves and go the DIY route which is what most of us commonfolk can afford to do.
Then he also shows good and bad of mostly purchased (not free - I'm actually ok with free products, as long as review is for us normal folks - his car budgets are creeping though - Alpinas, etc). But like your cousin was doing this , advising. Thanks!
It didn't take me to terribly long into my sandblasting "career" to recognize the value of an angle grinder and a wire wheel/flap disc. You can race over the large flat areas with the grinder and then just touch up with the sandblaster. I do not suggest using your finest grinder for that job. Harbor Freight corded for $15 is the perfect tool to pack full of rust dust and overheat. Drills are useless.
My friend bought 2 h. F. grinders so he didn't have to stop when he killed the first one, plus h f will swap them out if you burn it up "too fast" Chevy truck is a 3-4 grinder job
Pro-tip! Try to keep the jet at 90 degrees to the surface you're blasting as a general rule. Using it at an angle diminishes the impact energy of each sand particle and therefore its power!
Heartily disagree. At least with sandblasters that I've used (particulate specifically) holding at 90 degrees will increase the impact energy but less sand will abrade because it has nowhere to go. Its easier to get a consistent finish and faster to blast at a ~45 degree angle bc the sand "skips" across the surface and away. Probably different for vapor blasting
@@jimgordon3468 as a professional sandblaster. 90° is not the perfect angle. One should start with 70° and find what distance and angle works best while completing the project. Different media acts differently to different pressures, and when water is introduced it slows the media dramatically.
Cost me about 500 bucks to do it myself with a sandblaster from Harbor Freight. Worked out well. Also might help if you use a more abrasive sand. I used coal slag.
sodium bicarbonate as an abrasive media. Then raptor line it. Keep and clean all your old bottles. clean well, reuse it for rubber under coating by the gallon.
Use a tennis ball to hold the trigger on. It will pop in and out easily and if you do drop the pressure cleaner gun the ball will pop out stopping it automatically. This trick makes the job a lot less physical. Also you probably should bund around any drains to catch the sand so you can shovel it up. The sand may be natural but it will block up drains eventually. Great video.
Back when these trucks came out. Someone thought it would be a good idea to buy one for their kid to have as their first car. That kid almost hit my house after loosing control of the truck. Love these trucks but can’t understand why anyone would buy one for their kids, lol One of the best looking trucks the past 20 years.
Glad you mentioned the flash rust, I was thinking that taking the frame to bare metal with water in 100 deg heat might create its own problems. Clearly much less of an issue if you can keep water out of the picture either using compressed air-fed sand or even vapor blasting but they are much less DIY friendly.
Compressed air sandblasting is WAY more messy and requires much more personal safety equipment. Dry sand comes right back at you. If you watch to professional, they have moon suits on, covering head to toe. Plus takes a pretty big compressor. My 4 hp is not big enough to run my cheap siphon feed blaster.
A pro tip, if you have a car lift ... 2 posts lifts, like the ones you have... Use the lift to lift the bed off the frame.. then roll the frame out of the way and then you can set you bed down on the ground or rollers etc.. work smarter not harder.
Thanks for the introduction to the sandblaster pressure washer attachment. I have a large wrought iron set of shelves made by my dad and his classmates back in the early 70's; it was a fundraiser thing for the school. I thought I would have to haul it to a shop with a giant blast enclosure, or maybe one with a CO2 blaster. Now I can clean it to bare metal myself before the repaint. Thanks again guys!
I used a HF pressure sand blaster and it worked great. You need a LOT of compressor to do real sand blasting, but it's really pretty effective. I treat the metal with phosphoric acid, as many times as needed to get a good dark grey color, then clean and POR15 or paint. IDK about pressure washing with sand, it seems to have gone slower and the thing about sand is really the speed and how sharp the sand is. One quick tip is that if you clean things up so you don't have all the grease and oil, it really helps. Sand doesn't do well against grease.
Can I just say I love that you were willing to accept possibly changing course with the sanding pad upon realizing it might be of some use instead of trying to push the blasting method. That's super cool.
@@prydzen and of course it is actually removing metal whereas the sand will lift the rust scale and do little to damage the surface. Of course if you were to hold it in one position for long enough it would finally blast a hole through the chassis rail, but kept moving it would have negligible effect on the steel's thickness
I literally watch pretty much ALL of the car UA-cam channels and I can 100% say that your content is the most entertaining and relatable. Please keep up the great work.
I was always wondering if anyone has used electrolysis first to removed rust from a automotive frame. You could build forms around the frame to hold water and just let sit and let electrolysis do the the work for several days. Follow up with blasting in the video. Finally evaporust to remove in areas you could not get into with the previous two processes. You could place stones or other material that would take up space to limit the evaporust required.
I am straight up so down for this, seeing the Lightning getting a full resto makes me very happy! Keep up the great work Alex! Can't wait to see the next one! P.S. You together with Peter & Max are a great team, love seeing you all together, you seem to have such a good dynamic!
For rust removal, I like flap discs and wire wheels and twisted wire cups for grinders. You can really strip away big areas fast. And for smaller areas, they make wheels for drills and dremels too.
I love the chapters to this whole truck saga. What started off as a basic project has now become a full on frame off restoration but a really satisfying one at that.
I had a guy who owned a portable dustless sandblaster on a trailer come to my house and did my 16ft trailer for $700. He put some kind of anti flashing agent mixed in and he said that gives you 24hrs before the surface rust comes out.
Alex disassembles whole car to bare frame "It's a DIY project". Still love to see this mad project in your garage. Unlike other youtubers (I'm looking at you Sam) Alex will finish this in timely manner and will give us all awesome content.
I know sand is an aggressive medium, I just would not have thought "kids" play sand would be aggressive enough. Also, I have never seen water used with sand blasting before. Yet again you have educated me and probably many others. Thanks Alex.
I liked the Bernoulli principle.. where you create a vacuum due to the pressure you introduce in the hose line. Way to go, Peter.. as for you Alex, you need to put more time into reading hahahhahahaha.. thanks for the efforts you put into this channel dudes, we really enjoy every second of it, especially the comedy parts .. by that, I mean the jokes Alex throws every now and then, cheers bros.
Taking the term “while your in there” to a new level is right! For what it’s worth I’m thoroughly enjoying it! I had no idea a nozzle like that existed, I may have to try this….
I sold my 10 year old Chevy Silverado because the frame was totally covered in heavy rust, the bumpers had rusted through. All the brake and gas lines were rusted out. There was not a speck of rust or even a scratch on the body. I bought a new Ford and had it rust proofed. The truck is five years old now and the frame looks like new. Well worth the money.
A strip and clean disk on a angle grinder might get better results than the driver you were using Alex. Peter is a great addition to the channel - love to see you guys working on cars together. Always better than doing it by yourself !!
I did exactly this with an old 87 S-10... Not long after that, I had to replace all the bushings and leaf spring hardware... The squeaks drove me crazy... So that's something to look out for... That sand likes to go where you don't want it...
They do make a additive they hooks up to the pressure washer soap hookup that coats it with a rust inhibitor while you blast the frame saves a ton of time. Js great job on the frame by the way ! I have blasted with over a hundred different set ups for blasting through the years and water blasting is the safest and cleanest way to blast . But doesn't work so well on heavy equipment as it doesn't get the presser to remove the industrial paints . The more you know lol thanks guys .😎👍❤️🇨🇦🇺🇲
I’m curious about this rust inhibitor addition. Is it an additive you put in the soap tank or a unit that connects where the soap tank goes? Any more info that will help me track it down? Thanks Also, any suggestions on minimum psi and flow rate needed for wet sand blasting to remove rust?
@@Tonisuperfly It is a additive that goes in the soap tank. Harbor freight has it princess Auto has it. And wet sandblasting companies have it as well. Really works awesome I think Zep even makes it as well.
@@Tonisuperfly no worries glad I could help . I have used this rust inhibitor wet sandblasting and it works very well it however doesn't last forever but it does last about three weeks till some rust starts to show itself. I paint asap but it does last three weeks outside in the elements .. js Cheer's
Great video as usual!! For the underneath, try a heavy de-greaser to clean first. I like the yellow Harbor Freight stuff, and then a wire wheel to knock off any remaining scale. From there you can use rust converter and/or encapsulator from Eastman, and then take a look at Eastman's chassis black. You can spray it over anything and wears like iron. I've used their products in the past with really good results. Thanks!!
If anyone is tempted to try this, remember to clean up the sand properly - 5 bags of sand getting washed into the street drain by pressure washer and subsequent rain showers will make you pretty unpopular with your neighbours next time it rains heavily... For some reason civil engineers don't think "we better size the drain assuming someone will dump 125kg of wet sand down there all at once " 😀
Yep, "Off Site Sedimentation" is also a legal problem. But you'd never get in trouble for it because they focus on big developments, not one-off violations like this. It's not "just sand," either. It's everything he's blasting off, which is an environmental problem. But hey, it's entertaining, so who cares right! Not whining, just saying facts🤷♂
I bought one new in 1999 and just sold it last year. I didn't think it would bother me much but it does. Glad to see this one being treated as it should. Over the years I put about $18,000 in it, none of it was labor. It was worth every penny. These are amazing trucks.
Alex, I know you probably don't have to do this very often but investing in a set of chest high waiters, would make the job less missing!! It would Also help me wash bay!!!
Us Porsche guys are using CO2 blasting to literally turn a 1972 car into a 2022. There is a shop here in south Florida that does it but it is NOT cheap! Great video!
5:44 That's the same reaction I got from my Grandma when I removed the bumper off of my car to do some work on the fog light housing. I responded to her saying "I'm just removing the bumper not the whole engine". Love the vids and I'm learning a lot. Though I'm not tearing up my car to the frame just yet 😂
I mean, if you're trying to take them back to bare metal with a fine textured finish, you'll be very happy. But you would need to plan a new surface finish, as the raw blasted part won't stay pretty for long.
9:56 That's how a carburettor works Instead of water,imagine atmospheric pressure and the sand is your gas Pistons moving in the cylinders is your jet wash.
Flapper discs for grinder not drill and you can get different coarseness. You will love ‘em ! Also I think there is a product you can put in the water to eliminate the immediate rust after blasting. I have purchased a 2003 HD F-150 with the same motor a little detuned and 3,000 miles on it . Like new zero rust and $32,000 Canadian !
Next time you need to take a bed off by hand use a cherry picker and a 2x4 frame bolted into the bed mounts from inside the bed. You can use a similar method with a 2x4 frame bolted to the end of the cherry picker itself to pick up a cab. Just need to put a blanket on the 2x4 and bolt it together from inside. I also recently found out I can unbolt the engine, trans, and subframe from my 64 dodge 440. Then hook a chain up to the nose and tilt the car on the rear axle, up and off the drivetrain. Cherry pickers are useful for so much more than pulling engines.
After the sand dries you can just sweep/shovel it up. Cool. BTW, you could probably replace the unused shop toilet with a shower. The “drain” and water is already there. I’m sure they make an all-in-one unit.
@Anastasia Annika prosper Yeah, My first investment with Mr owen hayden earned me profit of over $25,530 US dollars, and ever since then he has been delivering
@Anastasia Annika prosper Yeah, My first investment with Mr owen hayden earned me profit of over $25,530 US dollars, and ever since then he has been delivering
It would be possible to sweep up the used sand, dry it out, sift out big stuff, and use it again. Great job! Nice to see this option. What truly amazes me is that you will remember what goes back to where when it's time to put it all back together. Thanks for the demo.
Ahhh! There’s something to be said for pushing dry sand thru a 1” nozzle with a 150hp diesel compressor😂. No more than an hour tops! But definitely would cost more!
The way the syphon works on the pickup, i use a small ball with lots of holes (watch a video on how that pipe collector for the blaster works, you'll come up with a solution very quickly with what you have laying around. The ball lets the abrasive get collected by the syphon effect without clogging as easy. After blasting, i use phosphoric acid to convert any flash oxidisation prior to re-sealing, which i do the moment the acid has finished doing it's colour change. Very cool video thank you as always
Great Project! Normally they mix water with rust inhibitor cause you won't get everywhere with paint where the water gets. And: you should really wear some kind of face mask, sand in your lungs will du unrepairable damage
@@grandtheftautotune7715 unfortunately that's not how high flow mixing works. The sand has no time to mix completely with the water, so you'll still have some dry sand in the air. Sand particles are so small that you can breathe them in and they will pop the bubbles in your lungs.
Interesting to see this, especially since Watch JR Go recently had his S10 Extreme frame soda blasted professionally. It did look more even, but I suspect they might have applied a rust converter before returning it to avoid the appearance of the flash rust.
These cars were TOTALLY cool! I ran one in a street duel in Fort Lauderdale and it was a dead heat between this truck and my '85 Porsche 928S2 5 speed. Note that I said S2; These weren't sold in the United States since they couldn't even come CLOSE to meeting emissions regulations. 310 hp = high 13 second quarter mile times and 175 mph top speeds; These were faster than the later S4 and GTS cars, despite the 700 cc deficit.
Just a thought. Build a battery pack between the frame rails. Drop in a few Tesla motors. with a cooling system, and you have a modern truck. Takes about, $25,000. Cheap F-150.
for a sand recovery system, I saw a guy do this years back himself and he used vizscreen (builders heavy duty plastic sheet 25' wide) under the chassis and around the side he used those portable barriers you see at public events to keep people on pavements, they link together and are about 4 foot high and held the vizscreen up with cable ties, it captured all the sand for him, a bit heath robinson and makeshift but as he said easier than having it all over his front garden and drive, it was a spitfire he was blasting and it was like new when finished, he recycled most the sand, folded up the vizscreen and took it to the tip, job done,
Just a heds up for future projects. The substrate needs to be completely clean of any oils, grease, or other petroleum product. If it's not cleaed off prior to blasting, its possible to trap contaminates in the surface, and that will cause premature coatings failure.
Two full days work with two people (32hrs sandblasting labor @ $50/hr avg =$1600). Cost of abrasives and hiring sandblaster two days, protective equipment ($400). Having a location to sandblast for two days (silt socks on drains as dumping anything down stormwater drains is considered illegal, 2 cases of beer, and a willing friend with location $200). Cleaning the aftermath of sand, mud, rust and paint properly (wet dry vacuum hire/purchase and labor time $150). And appling rust remover/paint prep coat and labor ($250). You're at $2600, saving $400. This all depends on what you and your extra workers time is worth, and if you have a workshop/location available, but for most people $3000 is worth the hassle, labor and mess.
You can get an corrosion inhibitor like holdtight 102 to prevent the rust at least in the short term. Coal slag like Black Beauty from TSC works great with the pressure washer. I did an iron radiator for a house with that, blew it dry with a leaf blower and painted it. Looked amazing.
Paint everything with POR15. It will convert the surface rust and coat the frame in one step. Hey, while the tank and fuel lines are out... Drop in a Hellcat pump and a larger feed line (use the factory feed as your new return) in preparation for flex-fuel. You know, because reasons.
Love it. Peter: Bernoulli's principle Alex: the Bermuda principle Reminds me of another famous movie quote I need your John Hancock on these. John Hancock, it's Herbie Hancock
You can lift another side of the frame up with engine hoist or just jack it up to access underside of the frame. 45 degrees is enough Another one is that the closed box section of frame is always full of dirt. You should clean it also. Best tool to use is the one used to diy pressure washing a sewer - what ever is is called. They have 360 degree nozzles which drives dirt out
Now time to prep, then paint with POR-15 after changing all the bushings out with an Energy Suspensions Ford Lightning 2WD 99-04 Polyurethane Bushing Complete Kit. Project SVT Lightning is on a roll !!!!
I have a Wet blast rig for my Stihl 130plus power washer (2000PSI) and its not a bad thing but I also use a Blast gun with Bicarb soda and a shop compressor for finer work and surface rust mainly because a quick run over with degreaser or solvent prepwash dissolves the Bi Carb so you dont get the grit issues you do with non soluble blast media. The other upside with Soda blasting is the enviro rules as the waste from the process is way easier to dispose of when you blast paint or oily parts and with rust and scale its simply a hose away proposition although i do use Sand berms to filter and protect drainage when I wash down.
I, agree with many of the others. More abrasive material, angle grinder, if in a subdivision you could walnut shells from Harbor Freight, biodegradable. Many ways to speed things up.
I use an engine lift to remove the bed. loop the straps through the chain. Don't use the hook! I had my truck bed all ready for paint then while trying to put it back on the truck temporarily, it happened. The strap popped off the hook! 4 hours more body work and some welding and she's ready for paint again.
To prevent the surface rust that starts forming immediately after blasting if just water is used, most pressure washers do not need pressure feed, so I mix a little phosporic acid into a 20 gallon drum of water and let the washer suck from it. It sort of primes the surface when it dries. Must be a gravel area though, not a paved driveway... If aluminum silicate or like is used insteas of just sand, the cleaning is much faster, but then good protective gear is a must, as the grains ricochet with greater force.
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Por-15, Metal Prep, prevents, the flash rust. Leaves metal, a zinc grey, if kept dry, till paint
the frame looks rusty already..
I was a quality control supervisor at an oil platform factory. They use sandblasting for pretty much everything that needs to be coated. I wouldn´t even let them get near the sandblaster if the relative humidity was above certain level let alone get the sandblasted metal get wet or even be touched with bare hands. Sure, a car frame is not going to explode if some rust gets trapped but...
I wonder how did you remove the rust before coating the frame?
Yo. I know you know about eastwood products. I had rust on my 2006 Chevy Van's roof (like they all get) and used an SCT from eastwood. it's short for Surface Conditioning Tool. It's hard to say whether sandblasting would've been faster or slower ... but in your face for the under-side, I think it's by far the best product with the abrasive wheel they recommended for me. I think the abrasive was either 80 or 120 grit. Which I then used with their epoxy primer which did a pretty good job.
Alex:
When he bought the truck: It needs JUST A BIT OF WORK
When he discovered the bad head gaskets: Let's replace the HGs
When he discovered the bad engine: Let's build a forged rotating assembly
When he took the engine out: Let's do a frame-off restoration
So true ! Love it , while your there syndrome
When he blasted the frame : Time to buy a paint booth?
@@Robsav-yx6vi whe while you are in there goes a bit too far
You stop when the money runs out?
It's a lightening tho. They're epic trucks and I feel like it's worth a full restore
Peter deserves more on screen time, Alex. He's a very positive introduction to the channel. He comes across as a thoroughly decent chap!
He is such a loveable guy, seems genuinely nice and knows what he is doing.. Good add to the crew..
These aged nicely
I'm mad at Peter tbh. They had a great thing going and he fucked up. I liked seeing him on the channel. It's too bad some people just can't keep it together. Oh well.
What actually happened with Peter?
I don't know how we went from head gaskets to frame off sand blasting, but I love it. I've never seen one of those DIY sandblasters before. Very cool.
@ GldRush98, check out Steve Summers channel. He has recently done the same thing for blasting parts on his 80's Chevy Square body rebuild. A real nice guy( I visited his shop and met him while on holiday in the states from the UK back in March)
It Happens... 😆
Never seen a Wet Sandblasting like that.. 👀
I have a nice Air pressured Sandblaster tank; but, it's only practical for Small areas.. it Devours Air and I Hate the Dust.
While we’re in there….
I think im gonna use that line on my wife "Honey we need head gaskets on the truck" Translation " frame off restoration"
I guess if you already have a huge air compressor, sure. But the cfm you need is way above typical household compressors, unfortunately.
I love that any build on UA-cam I watch has a garage that looks as destroyed as mine while in project mode. You can tell who does work by how the garage looks. I really need to spend a good hour on my garage to get it in order.
I need to spend a good week getting my garage in order. It is bad! lol
I need to spend an hour psyching myself up to plan out what I would need to do to get my garage in order...ohh look, Engine Masters has a new episode....Yea, garage is not getting organized soon.
garage
This is why I love watching your channel. Instead of plunking down a few thousand to get it done professionally like most big UA-camrs would, you roll up your sleeves and go the DIY route which is what most of us commonfolk can afford to do.
Then he also shows good and bad of mostly purchased (not free - I'm actually ok with free products, as long as review is for us normal folks - his car budgets are creeping though - Alpinas, etc). But like your cousin was doing this , advising. Thanks!
It didn't take me to terribly long into my sandblasting "career" to recognize the value of an angle grinder and a wire wheel/flap disc. You can race over the large flat areas with the grinder and then just touch up with the sandblaster. I do not suggest using your finest grinder for that job. Harbor Freight corded for $15 is the perfect tool to pack full of rust dust and overheat.
Drills are useless.
Was looking for this comment
@@jstephens1193 I live to serve. 🤣
My friend bought 2 h. F. grinders so he didn't have to stop when he killed the first one, plus h f will swap them out if you burn it up "too fast" Chevy truck is a 3-4 grinder job
@@ryurc3033 I bought triplets on sale for like $12.99/ea. 😆
Not to mention saving some of the 3,000 gallons of water (2.5 gpm * 20 hours) that goes into sandblasting the whole frame.
Pro-tip! Try to keep the jet at 90 degrees to the surface you're blasting as a general rule. Using it at an angle diminishes the impact energy of each sand particle and therefore its power!
Heartily disagree. At least with sandblasters that I've used (particulate specifically) holding at 90 degrees will increase the impact energy but less sand will abrade because it has nowhere to go. Its easier to get a consistent finish and faster to blast at a ~45 degree angle bc the sand "skips" across the surface and away. Probably different for vapor blasting
Totally disagree. Your science is flawed.
90 degrees angle is the absolute perfect way to sand blast.
I like between 77° and 79° when I sand blast, not a degree over or under. You've been warned.
@@jimgordon3468 as a professional sandblaster. 90° is not the perfect angle. One should start with 70° and find what distance and angle works best while completing the project. Different media acts differently to different pressures, and when water is introduced it slows the media dramatically.
Gotta love Peter ! He’s lots of fun . Thank goodness for him .
Cost me about 500 bucks to do it myself with a sandblaster from Harbor Freight. Worked out well. Also might help if you use a more abrasive sand. I used coal slag.
sodium bicarbonate as an abrasive media. Then raptor line it. Keep and clean all your old bottles. clean well, reuse it for rubber under coating by the gallon.
Salt?
@@JakeSullivanMedia Baking soda
@@JakeSullivanMedia salt is sodium chloride
@@2exiw won't remove heavy rust,
unless you turn the pressure right up
Use a tennis ball to hold the trigger on. It will pop in and out easily and if you do drop the pressure cleaner gun the ball will pop out stopping it automatically. This trick makes the job a lot less physical.
Also you probably should bund around any drains to catch the sand so you can shovel it up. The sand may be natural but it will block up drains eventually.
Great video.
Back when these trucks came out. Someone thought it would be a good idea to buy one for their kid to have as their first car. That kid almost hit my house after loosing control of the truck. Love these trucks but can’t understand why anyone would buy one for their kids, lol
One of the best looking trucks the past 20 years.
Glad you mentioned the flash rust, I was thinking that taking the frame to bare metal with water in 100 deg heat might create its own problems. Clearly much less of an issue if you can keep water out of the picture either using compressed air-fed sand or even vapor blasting but they are much less DIY friendly.
Compressed air sandblasting is WAY more messy and requires much more personal safety equipment. Dry sand comes right back at you. If you watch to professional, they have moon suits on, covering head to toe. Plus takes a pretty big compressor. My 4 hp is not big enough to run my cheap siphon feed blaster.
@@hotpuppy1 Absolutely ! See 2min 14 secs into this for a DIY example ua-cam.com/video/-4gOVAzEvB0/v-deo.html
if you spray it with vinegar it stops the flash rust
I add vinegar to the water and also works good for neutralizing Playa dust in parts of desert
@@lutomson3496 how much vinegar? Could it be applied directly after spraying the water instead of mixing it with the water before spraying?
A pro tip, if you have a car lift ... 2 posts lifts, like the ones you have... Use the lift to lift the bed off the frame.. then roll the frame out of the way and then you can set you bed down on the ground or rollers etc.. work smarter not harder.
Thanks for the introduction to the sandblaster pressure washer attachment. I have a large wrought iron set of shelves made by my dad and his classmates back in the early 70's; it was a fundraiser thing for the school. I thought I would have to haul it to a shop with a giant blast enclosure, or maybe one with a CO2 blaster. Now I can clean it to bare metal myself before the repaint. Thanks again guys!
I used a HF pressure sand blaster and it worked great. You need a LOT of compressor to do real sand blasting, but it's really pretty effective.
I treat the metal with phosphoric acid, as many times as needed to get a good dark grey color, then clean and POR15 or paint. IDK about pressure washing with sand, it seems to have gone slower and the thing about sand is really the speed and how sharp the sand is. One quick tip is that if you clean things up so you don't have all the grease and oil, it really helps. Sand doesn't do well against grease.
Can I just say I love that you were willing to accept possibly changing course with the sanding pad upon realizing it might be of some use instead of trying to push the blasting method. That's super cool.
that pad was scratching up the frame a lot. blasting is a lot better.
@@prydzen and of course it is actually removing metal whereas the sand will lift the rust scale and do little to damage the surface. Of course if you were to hold it in one position for long enough it would finally blast a hole through the chassis rail, but kept moving it would have negligible effect on the steel's thickness
@@samrodian919 you dont say
I literally watch pretty much ALL of the car UA-cam channels and I can 100% say that your content is the most entertaining and relatable. Please keep up the great work.
I was always wondering if anyone has used electrolysis first to removed rust from a automotive frame. You could build forms around the frame to hold water and just let sit and let electrolysis do the the work for several days. Follow up with blasting in the video. Finally evaporust to remove in areas you could not get into with the previous two processes. You could place stones or other material that would take up space to limit the evaporust required.
I am straight up so down for this, seeing the Lightning getting a full resto makes me very happy! Keep up the great work Alex! Can't wait to see the next one! P.S. You together with Peter & Max are a great team, love seeing you all together, you seem to have such a good dynamic!
For rust removal, I like flap discs and wire wheels and twisted wire cups for grinders. You can really strip away big areas fast. And for smaller areas, they make wheels for drills and dremels too.
its eating the rust, dirt and broken wires from the wire wheel that sucks doing it that way but it def works
A needle scaler is a great tool that helps remove scale and surface rust.
Be careful with those blue canisters in the tank they easily crack and hard to find replacements
I love the chapters to this whole truck saga. What started off as a basic project has now become a full on frame off restoration but a really satisfying one at that.
I had a guy who owned a portable dustless sandblaster on a trailer come to my house and did my 16ft trailer for $700. He put some kind of anti flashing agent mixed in and he said that gives you 24hrs before the surface rust comes out.
Alex disassembles whole car to bare frame "It's a DIY project".
Still love to see this mad project in your garage. Unlike other youtubers (I'm looking at you Sam) Alex will finish this in timely manner and will give us all awesome content.
I know sand is an aggressive medium, I just would not have thought "kids" play sand would be aggressive enough. Also, I have never seen water used with sand blasting before. Yet again you have educated me and probably many others. Thanks Alex.
I liked the Bernoulli principle.. where you create a vacuum due to the pressure you introduce in the hose line. Way to go, Peter.. as for you Alex, you need to put more time into reading hahahhahahaha.. thanks for the efforts you put into this channel dudes, we really enjoy every second of it, especially the comedy parts .. by that, I mean the jokes Alex throws every now and then, cheers bros.
90 seconds in and can attest, Peter is a beast. Get that man a sammich!!!!
Taking the term “while your in there” to a new level is right! For what it’s worth I’m thoroughly enjoying it! I had no idea a nozzle like that existed, I may have to try this….
This is more effective than I really expected.
By the way, the bernoulli effect is the same thing that makes carbuerators work
Yea likes the Bermuda Triangle...
I sold my 10 year old Chevy Silverado because the frame was totally covered in heavy rust, the bumpers had rusted through. All the brake and gas lines were rusted out. There was not a speck of rust or even a scratch on the body.
I bought a new Ford and had it rust proofed. The truck is five years old now and the frame looks like new. Well worth the money.
A strip and clean disk on a angle grinder might get better results than the driver you were using Alex.
Peter is a great addition to the channel - love to see you guys working on cars together. Always better than doing it by yourself !!
I did exactly this with an old 87 S-10... Not long after that, I had to replace all the bushings and leaf spring hardware... The squeaks drove me crazy... So that's something to look out for... That sand likes to go where you don't want it...
They do make a additive they hooks up to the pressure washer soap hookup that coats it with a rust inhibitor while you blast the frame saves a ton of time. Js great job on the frame by the way ! I have blasted with over a hundred different set ups for blasting through the years and water blasting is the safest and cleanest way to blast . But doesn't work so well on heavy equipment as it doesn't get the presser to remove the industrial paints . The more you know lol thanks guys .😎👍❤️🇨🇦🇺🇲
I’m curious about this rust inhibitor addition. Is it an additive you put in the soap tank or a unit that connects where the soap tank goes? Any more info that will help me track it down? Thanks
Also, any suggestions on minimum psi and flow rate needed for wet sand blasting to remove rust?
@@Tonisuperfly It is a additive that goes in the soap tank. Harbor freight has it princess Auto has it. And wet sandblasting companies have it as well. Really works awesome I think Zep even makes it as well.
@@Tonisuperfly this is a link to it.above
@@k.g.kennedy9471 thanks, I can’t see a link and I’m in New Zealand so we don’t have any of those companies here. I might ask around though. Thanks :)
@@Tonisuperfly no worries glad I could help . I have used this rust inhibitor wet sandblasting and it works very well it however doesn't last forever but it does last about three weeks till some rust starts to show itself. I paint asap but it does last three weeks outside in the elements .. js Cheer's
I normally repaint the underneath of my truck with Bitchumen, as it has Oil in it so it seems to last a long time without any rust issues...
Great video as usual!! For the underneath, try a heavy de-greaser to clean first. I like the yellow Harbor Freight stuff, and then a wire wheel to knock off any remaining scale. From there you can use rust converter and/or encapsulator from Eastman, and then take a look at Eastman's chassis black. You can spray it over anything and wears like iron. I've used their products in the past with really good results. Thanks!!
I absolutely died!!!! Me mom!!!!! Sounds like my momma!!! You’re absolutely so humble!! Killer content!! My Saturday soap! ❤️
If anyone is tempted to try this, remember to clean up the sand properly - 5 bags of sand getting washed into the street drain by pressure washer and subsequent rain showers will make you pretty unpopular with your neighbours next time it rains heavily... For some reason civil engineers don't think "we better size the drain assuming someone will dump 125kg of wet sand down there all at once " 😀
Yep, "Off Site Sedimentation" is also a legal problem. But you'd never get in trouble for it because they focus on big developments, not one-off violations like this. It's not "just sand," either. It's everything he's blasting off, which is an environmental problem. But hey, it's entertaining, so who cares right! Not whining, just saying facts🤷♂
I bought one new in 1999 and just sold it last year. I didn't think it would bother me much but it does. Glad to see this one being treated as it should. Over the years I put about $18,000 in it, none of it was labor. It was worth every penny. These are amazing trucks.
Craziest head gasket change I've ever seen 😅
Alex, I know you probably don't have to do this very often but investing in a set of chest high waiters, would make the job less missing!! It would Also help me wash bay!!!
I think my sal-mon colored shirt is really where it's at. You and Peter are just jealous...
Us Porsche guys are using CO2 blasting to literally turn a 1972 car into a 2022. There is a shop here in south Florida that does it but it is NOT cheap!
Great video!
Using dry ice would've been nice to see...so satisfying. Excited to see what this looks like when you're done.
Dry ice doesn't remove rust well. That's used more for sound deadening removal. Dry ice and rubbing alcohol.
Search for " Dustless Blasting Rust Inhibitor" if your pressure washer has a chemical draw tank you can use it and keep away the flash rust.
Engines f'd... might as well build it and restore. Project scope creep will bite ya in nuts sometimes.
Always I hate looking I always find a ton to do
I have to say dude.. your videos have been getting better lately..not that they have been bad before, but the standard has been raised.
Getting it done right! Show truck time!
5:44
That's the same reaction I got from my Grandma when I removed the bumper off of my car to do some work on the fog light housing. I responded to her saying "I'm just removing the bumper not the whole engine".
Love the vids and I'm learning a lot. Though I'm not tearing up my car to the frame just yet 😂
I suspected you were bonkers now I know! 🤣 The frame is looking great can't wait to see it finished. Keep em coming.
Peter is always happy no matter the situation i need to learn how he is so stress free, i love him
I'd love to see how effective this is on aluminum wheels pitted with brake dust!
I mean, if you're trying to take them back to bare metal with a fine textured finish, you'll be very happy. But you would need to plan a new surface finish, as the raw blasted part won't stay pretty for long.
9:56
That's how a carburettor works
Instead of water,imagine atmospheric pressure and the sand is your gas
Pistons moving in the cylinders is your jet wash.
Well, this build got out of hand quickly.🤣Love it! Keep the vids on the L coming!
Flapper discs for grinder not drill and you can get different coarseness. You will love ‘em ! Also I think there is a product you can put in the water to eliminate the immediate rust after blasting. I have purchased a 2003 HD F-150 with the same motor a little detuned and 3,000 miles on it . Like new zero rust and $32,000 Canadian !
how'd ya get underneath?
Next time you need to take a bed off by hand use a cherry picker and a 2x4 frame bolted into the bed mounts from inside the bed. You can use a similar method with a 2x4 frame bolted to the end of the cherry picker itself to pick up a cab. Just need to put a blanket on the 2x4 and bolt it together from inside. I also recently found out I can unbolt the engine, trans, and subframe from my 64 dodge 440. Then hook a chain up to the nose and tilt the car on the rear axle, up and off the drivetrain. Cherry pickers are useful for so much more than pulling engines.
How about the laser rust remover?
For the lawn? Seems a bit excessive, but dandelions are a PITA so... Ok.
After the sand dries you can just sweep/shovel it up. Cool.
BTW, you could probably replace the unused shop toilet with a shower. The “drain” and water is already there. I’m sure they make an all-in-one unit.
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It would be possible to sweep up the used sand, dry it out, sift out big stuff, and use it again. Great job! Nice to see this option. What truly amazes me is that you will remember what goes back to where when it's time to put it all back together. Thanks for the demo.
"I just wanted to do head gaskets" I can see some new merch coming with that on it!
I am really enjoying the direction this project has taken with the diy videos for stuff I never even considered. Thanks for the videos.
When I sandblasted the underside of my old Buick I ended up with sand in offices I didn't even know I had. LOL
Ladder chassis, live rear axle, pushrod engine, just the finest 1940's engineering money can buy
I could disassemble it, but I’d never, ever be capable of putting all that back together.
I think it’s super cool that you are going the extra mile on your truck. I applaud you for your choice to make the lightning an even bigger beef cake.
That will work great for removing paint off concrete too. 29.99$ i have to get one and try it out.
Ahhh! There’s something to be said for pushing dry sand thru a 1” nozzle with a 150hp diesel compressor😂. No more than an hour tops! But definitely would cost more!
It's the perfect time to replace every rubber bushing and the springs!!
Absolutely...that sand and water must have blasted itself in-between those bushes and the friction will certainly cause them to wear out quicker..👍👍
Did he plug the differential vent? Great time to plan on new diff gears possibly. Also shocks, brakes, wheel bearing seals...
Sir, you are absolutely an inspiration. You tackle anything and everything and just get it done. Very impressive.
Has anyone ever done a 4x4 conversion on one of these… just thinking while you’re in there lol!!!
The way the syphon works on the pickup, i use a small ball with lots of holes (watch a video on how that pipe collector for the blaster works, you'll come up with a solution very quickly with what you have laying around. The ball lets the abrasive get collected by the syphon effect without clogging as easy. After blasting, i use phosphoric acid to convert any flash oxidisation prior to re-sealing, which i do the moment the acid has finished doing it's colour change. Very cool video thank you as always
Great Project!
Normally they mix water with rust inhibitor cause you won't get everywhere with paint where the water gets.
And: you should really wear some kind of face mask, sand in your lungs will du unrepairable damage
Did you not watch the video??? The sand was mixed with water, thus no dust.
@@grandtheftautotune7715 unfortunately that's not how high flow mixing works. The sand has no time to mix completely with the water, so you'll still have some dry sand in the air.
Sand particles are so small that you can breathe them in and they will pop the bubbles in your lungs.
Interesting to see this, especially since Watch JR Go recently had his S10 Extreme frame soda blasted professionally. It did look more even, but I suspect they might have applied a rust converter before returning it to avoid the appearance of the flash rust.
These cars were TOTALLY cool! I ran one in a street duel in Fort Lauderdale and it was a dead heat between this truck and my '85 Porsche 928S2 5 speed.
Note that I said S2; These weren't sold in the United States since they couldn't even come CLOSE to meeting emissions regulations. 310 hp = high 13 second quarter mile times and 175 mph top speeds; These were faster than the later S4 and GTS cars, despite the 700 cc deficit.
Now sand down frame Useing sandpaper too really make it pop then paint color of your choice ! I'd go with light blue .
Just a thought. Build a battery pack between the frame rails. Drop in a few Tesla motors. with a cooling system, and you have a modern truck. Takes about, $25,000. Cheap F-150.
Couple advantages I can see with the water/sand blast is no silica dust being created, and water carries the sand away. Neighbors stay happy this way.
for a sand recovery system, I saw a guy do this years back himself and he used vizscreen (builders heavy duty plastic sheet 25' wide) under the chassis and around the side he used those portable barriers you see at public events to keep people on pavements, they link together and are about 4 foot high and held the vizscreen up with cable ties, it captured all the sand for him, a bit heath robinson and makeshift but as he said easier than having it all over his front garden and drive, it was a spitfire he was blasting and it was like new when finished, he recycled most the sand, folded up the vizscreen and took it to the tip, job done,
remember kids, this is how a head gasket job becomes a frame off restojob. Kuddos. would have done the same... Awesome job alex
"while you're in there" work is one of the main reasons I love this channel... satisfies my OCD so hard...
Just a heds up for future projects. The substrate needs to be completely clean of any oils, grease, or other petroleum product. If it's not cleaed off prior to blasting, its possible to trap contaminates in the surface, and that will cause premature coatings failure.
Two full days work with two people (32hrs sandblasting labor @ $50/hr avg =$1600).
Cost of abrasives and hiring sandblaster two days, protective equipment ($400).
Having a location to sandblast for two days (silt socks on drains as dumping anything down stormwater drains is considered illegal, 2 cases of beer, and a willing friend with location $200).
Cleaning the aftermath of sand, mud, rust and paint properly (wet dry vacuum hire/purchase and labor time $150).
And appling rust remover/paint prep coat and labor ($250).
You're at $2600, saving $400. This all depends on what you and your extra workers time is worth, and if you have a workshop/location available, but for most people $3000 is worth the hassle, labor and mess.
What a treat I still hope there’s a video Saturday to lol
You can get an corrosion inhibitor like holdtight 102 to prevent the rust at least in the short term. Coal slag like Black Beauty from TSC works great with the pressure washer. I did an iron radiator for a house with that, blew it dry with a leaf blower and painted it. Looked amazing.
Paint everything with POR15. It will convert the surface rust and coat the frame in one step. Hey, while the tank and fuel lines are out... Drop in a Hellcat pump and a larger feed line (use the factory feed as your new return) in preparation for flex-fuel. You know, because reasons.
Hmm head gasket replacement to full frame off restoration!
“Just natural sand” with paint and oil in it 😂
Love it.
Peter: Bernoulli's principle
Alex: the Bermuda principle
Reminds me of another famous movie quote
I need your John Hancock on these.
John Hancock, it's Herbie Hancock
POR15 has a rust converter that will turn surface rust into like a galvanized coating that you rinse off with water. I love the stuff.
You can lift another side of the frame up with engine hoist or just jack it up to access underside of the frame. 45 degrees is enough
Another one is that the closed box section of frame is always full of dirt. You should clean it also. Best tool to use is the one used to diy pressure washing a sewer - what ever is is called. They have 360 degree nozzles which drives dirt out
Now time to prep, then paint with POR-15 after changing all the bushings out with an Energy Suspensions Ford Lightning 2WD 99-04 Polyurethane Bushing Complete Kit. Project SVT Lightning is on a roll !!!!
I thought I had seen every tool under the sun. But this one is new to me. FREAKIN AMAAZING!
I have a Wet blast rig for my Stihl 130plus power washer (2000PSI) and its not a bad thing but I also use a Blast gun with Bicarb soda and a shop compressor for finer work and surface rust mainly because a quick run over with degreaser or solvent prepwash dissolves the Bi Carb so you dont get the grit issues you do with non soluble blast media.
The other upside with Soda blasting is the enviro rules as the waste from the process is way easier to dispose of when you blast paint or oily parts and with rust and scale its simply a hose away proposition although i do use Sand berms to filter and protect drainage when I wash down.
You can also make a wet slurry with the sand, makes for a more consistent feed and you don’t need another person to move the pickup tube.
I, agree with many of the others. More abrasive material, angle grinder, if in a subdivision you could walnut shells from Harbor Freight, biodegradable. Many ways to speed things up.
I use an engine lift to remove the bed. loop the straps through the chain. Don't use the hook! I had my truck bed all ready for paint then while trying to put it back on the truck temporarily, it happened. The strap popped off the hook! 4 hours more body work and some welding and she's ready for paint again.
To prevent the surface rust that starts forming immediately after blasting if just water is used, most pressure washers do not need pressure feed, so I mix a little phosporic acid into a 20 gallon drum of water and let the washer suck from it. It sort of primes the surface when it dries. Must be a gravel area though, not a paved driveway... If aluminum silicate or like is used insteas of just sand, the cleaning is much faster, but then good protective gear is a must, as the grains ricochet with greater force.