Jeez my professors, too, discouraged us to sew knits 😂 I've been done with school for 7 years now and haven't constructed anything knit! Thank you very much for this video ❤ I look forward to giving knits a shot 😁
I am glad I never had anyone tell me knits are hard to sew or it might have scared me off. The main thing I don't like about sewing with knits is the hemming; I did a dress once where I used bias tape on the inside of the hem to keep it from stretching out. This is actually my favorite dress and looks great no matter how many sizes my body has changed up or down in the last 30 years. Well, the fit is great; the fabric itself has gotten really thin due to so much wear, so it is only a housedress now. I am not sure what kind of knit it is. Almost everything knit I have sewn though were T-shirts with ribbed necklines.
Yeah it was not an ideal teaching situation. Everything I’ve learned about knits I’ve learned from books. Which is ridiculous considering my college curriculum was in textile and apparel design!
Wow that stretch guide to actual measurements is a game changer. So 20% stretch is equal to an inch, which needs to be deducted off the measurements. One pattern in three different fabrics may need three different sizes to get a similar effect for all three garments. Got it. Thanks. ❤❤❤
This video is an absolute blessing for me. I've always avoided knits like the plague because I wasn't sure hoe to get things to fit for the friends I make clothes for. Now you've taught me so much to have the confidence to try. 3 tips for sewing with knits video here I come!
I’ve never heard it explained this way. Thank you so much for doing this video. Kind of an algebra/light bulb moment for me…all of the sudden makes sense. ☺️
Great video. The explanation makes so much sense and hopefully will prevent a lot of heartache in the future and give me the fit I am looking for. Thanks!
Really enjoyed this mini-course in fitting knits. Thanks for taking your precious wedding dress sewing time to present this topic. 😊 Love that knit ruler you highlighted-putting that item on my Xmas wish list.
Thank you , now I know why a top I made yesterday out of a Wave Rib Jersey Fabric is too big from Pound fabrics. I cut out & used a UK size 16-18 pattern, my normal size. I've taken the top apart & remade it a size smaller UK &12-14 & it fits.
With the right kind of machine (that is, a serger) knits are easy...very easy! And yes, using the "right" textile for the design negative ease is important. I have a t-shirt pattern that I use a lot. The fit depends on the stretch percentage. Sometimes the t-shirt will fit tighter because that textile has less stretch or the fit is relaxed because of higher stretch. Yes, the commercial patterns have included the negative wearing ease. That is why they have the stretch "ruler" on the envelope. If the pattern is for a 40% stretch, it won't work for a 20% stretch. Just like woven patterns are made for specific textiles depending on their drape and hand.
Hi Toni. Do you have advice/tips for converting a woven fabric dress pattern to a stretch dress? I have a pattern that is for woven fabric which fits me perfectly and I want to make a dress with stretch fabric from the same pattern. Love your videos as they give such useful information.
I have never converted a woven pattern to sew with knits. I’d fold in the darts, since you don’t need them with knits. I’d check the stretch and figure out the fit you want and the size down on the woven pattern according to the amount of ease. Hope that makes sense. If not send me an email😉
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this video!! Since I started sewing, knits have always annoyed me. The stable knits usually turned out fine or jersey knits such as for a T-shirt. I am presently facing the projects of making joggers/yoga pants and leggings because my doctors have said, "get moving" and I don't have anything suitable to wear to the gym. A person doesn't want anything that's going to flap around to get caught on something or make one sweat too much like sweat pants. Mostly I have knocking around the house stuff or things good for yard work, gardening and the like. With the information presented here, I can create some nice looking tops and bottoms so I'll feel somewhat less self-conscious when working out. I just received the patterns I ordered and ready to shop for the knits they require. Now all that's left is for me to decide whether to sew all these projects on my sewing machine or try using my cranky serger... (actually the serger makes me cranky. LOL) I have a great sewing machine with lots of stretch stitches that I trust more than the serger. Time to replace it?
You are very welcome. I’m so glad it helped you figure out knits! I recently made 2 knit dresses using my serger and they were super fast to sew. Both turned out well and fit great. I have a baby lock Allure which is self-threading and that makes everything so much easier.
When I bought patterns, I always bought for my largest measurement. Then they came up with adjustable patterns and I started making copies of the original and not cutting the original.
Maybe not. But if you want it to look like the dress in the photo on the envelope and you don’t factor in the stretch of your fabric, it 100% won’t work.
I kinda agree. With tops and dresses, I usually prefer them to be 'figure skimming' or just 'skintight', but not actually stretched over my body. And in that case, it doesn't really matter, how stretchy the knit fabric is, as I only need the stretch to put the garment on and take it off. And for freedom of movement/comfort. I mean, I can see this mattering with leggings, say. Or a swimsuit. But for everyday clothing? I have never once in my life given particular thought to this and my garments have always turned out fine.
When you are adding the stretch measurement isn’t it stretching 2” per 5” piece. So a 35” bust will have 14” extra? As there 7 of the 5” pieces in the bust? So confused. X
The five inches is for the purpose of determining the total stretch percentage of the fabric. It’s not going to change with a longer length; it’s just to make the math easy. Start with the 5” and the see how much stretch you get without distorting the fabric design. Then add however many inches it is to the finished measurements and figure which size will fit you best 😉
I took the time once had fabric store even help me and it was so big. I had to take it all in. Didn't look like a sac but looked 3 sizes too big yet tailored.
I have come to the conclusion that the people who design patterns for the big four do not actually sew. I have much better luck with indie patterns. Yes, I love that ruler from stitch buzz. I use it every time I sew a knit garment
The Big 4 are designing and sizing for a huge population of different bodies. Added ease can be way more than in indie patterns. Vogue doesn't have the huge ease that McCalls & Butterick do, IMO. I use Vogue more than the other Big 4 brands because of that.
No, the 1-2 inch stretch is the overall ease. If you did 1-2 inches per every 5 inches you would end up with 6-12 inches ease for a 30inch waist, for example. Way too much ;)
How can a college course tell you knits are 'too hard'?? I did an evening course in 1984, through a chain of knit fabric stores and it was the most useful sewing related classes I ever did.
Isn’t the % of knit stretch more accurate? The inches of stretch you calculated were for a 5 inch swatch of fabric. Assuming your garment is larger than 5 inches wouldn’t the ease be more than the 1” or 2 inches per 5 inch sample?
So true! Or the fabric recommended have completely different amounts of stretch which will make the pattern fit differently depending on which one you use!
Wow do I learn a LOT from you! 74 and still learning!
Aww thank you! Glad you enjoyed my video 😉
Jeez my professors, too, discouraged us to sew knits 😂 I've been done with school for 7 years now and haven't constructed anything knit! Thank you very much for this video ❤ I look forward to giving knits a shot 😁
I have no idea what’s up with fashion profs and their fear of teaching us to sew with knits!! Totally crazy!
I am glad I never had anyone tell me knits are hard to sew or it might have scared me off. The main thing I don't like about sewing with knits is the hemming; I did a dress once where I used bias tape on the inside of the hem to keep it from stretching out. This is actually my favorite dress and looks great no matter how many sizes my body has changed up or down in the last 30 years. Well, the fit is great; the fabric itself has gotten really thin due to so much wear, so it is only a housedress now. I am not sure what kind of knit it is. Almost everything knit I have sewn though were T-shirts with ribbed necklines.
Yeah it was not an ideal teaching situation. Everything I’ve learned about knits I’ve learned from books. Which is ridiculous considering my college curriculum was in textile and apparel design!
Wow that stretch guide to actual measurements is a game changer. So 20% stretch is equal to an inch, which needs to be deducted off the measurements. One pattern in three different fabrics may need three different sizes to get a similar effect for all three garments. Got it. Thanks. ❤❤❤
You’re welcome! Thank YOU for watching 😊
Thank you for writing this out. It helps me understand this video even more.
Excellent segment with very helpful information! THANKS!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching 😊
This video is an absolute blessing for me. I've always avoided knits like the plague because I wasn't sure hoe to get things to fit for the friends I make clothes for. Now you've taught me so much to have the confidence to try. 3 tips for sewing with knits video here I come!
Yay!! I’m so glad you’re feeling confident to start sewing knits ❤️
Thank you for bringing this up. It never crossed my mind that I’d have to compare the stretch. From the UK.
You’re welcome! Glad it helped 😊
Thank you for this video! Perfect timing for Fall sewing!
You are so welcome! Good luck with your fall sewing ❤️
Great video, Toni! You have taken the mystery out of determining which size to use for a particular knit! Thanks! 🥰
Awww thank you Nancy! I’m so glad to know my video helped❤️
I’ve never heard it explained this way. Thank you so much for doing this video. Kind of an algebra/light bulb moment for me…all of the sudden makes sense. ☺️
Glad it was helpful! It was a lightbulb moment for me too-I had to share!
@@SewSewLounge By the way, Stitch Buzz had a sale on their website when I looked today and I picked up the handy little stretch ruler. 🙌🏻
Wow. Fascinating! It makes sense now to me regarding even purchasing clothing!! Thank you.
I’m so glad you enjoyed it! Figured out your size based on the amount of stretch makes such a huge difference in the fit!
So glad I watched this before diving into knits. Very good information.
You’re welcome! I appreciate your comment. Thank YOU for watching 😊
Thank you ,loved all these goody info. ❤❤❤❤❤
I'm so glad you liked it! ❤️
Thank you so much for all this valuable information. I am so appreciative of your experience and know.edge.
I'm so grateful for your kind words! 🙏Thank you for your support and encouragement!
Thank you so much for the info👍🏻 awesome knowlegde
You’re welcome! Glad it was helpful 😊
Great video. The explanation makes so much sense and hopefully will prevent a lot of heartache in the future and give me the fit I am looking for. Thanks!
I'm so glad it helped! ❤️
So helpful! Thanks for the clear explanation!
Awww thank you! I’m so glad to know my video helped you ❤️
Really enjoyed this mini-course in fitting knits. Thanks for taking your precious wedding dress sewing time to present this topic. 😊 Love that knit ruler you highlighted-putting that item on my Xmas wish list.
Aww thank you. I’ll be sewing some knit dresses for the honeymoon so it all works out 😉
Thank you! I would stretch things as faaaaaaarrrrrr as it would go! Like the tip about distortion. Makes so much sense.
I’ve done it too! Yeah it’s stretches but it’s not going to look good when I wear it 🤣
O.M.G., you answered sooo many of my questioning about needles. So informative!!! Thank you so much !!! Best regards from Québec, Canada. ❤
Your support is greatly appreciated! Thank you for being so awesome!
Thanks for making this. I was having the same issue I figured it was something similar to what you mentioned.
You’re welcome! It’s the pattern, it’s not you!!
Great help…thanks Toni ☺️👍🧵💕
You’re welcome Elizabeth 😊
Thank you , now I know why a top I made yesterday out of a Wave Rib Jersey Fabric is too big from Pound fabrics. I cut out & used a UK size 16-18 pattern, my normal size. I've taken the top apart & remade it a size smaller UK &12-14 & it fits.
Yay!!! I’m so glad that it worked. I recently did the same thing and made a dress a size smaller than the printed measurements and it fit perfectly.
Thank you for this info. So helpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thank YOU for watching❤️
Thank you, good to know.
You’re very welcome 🙂
That is so clever . Definitely going to use that information. Already saved your vidoe 😊
It will total change your sewing game!! Glad it helped 😉
With the right kind of machine (that is, a serger) knits are easy...very easy!
And yes, using the "right" textile for the design negative ease is important. I have a t-shirt pattern that I use a lot. The fit depends on the stretch percentage. Sometimes the t-shirt will fit tighter because that textile has less stretch or the fit is relaxed because of higher stretch.
Yes, the commercial patterns have included the negative wearing ease. That is why they have the stretch "ruler" on the envelope. If the pattern is for a 40% stretch, it won't work for a 20% stretch. Just like woven patterns are made for specific textiles depending on their drape and hand.
You're right, a serger is a game-changer for knits! 😊
Excellent information ❤😊
Glad you think so! It helped me 😉
Great tutorial!
You’re welcome! Thank YOU for watching 😊
Such good information.
Glad you think so! Thanks for watching 🙂
Brilliant! Thank you very much.
You're awesome, thank you!I'm grateful for you!
Amazing, thanks!
Thank you for being here! 😊
So helpful!! Thank you:)
Thanks for watching! 😊
Hi Toni. Do you have advice/tips for converting a woven fabric dress pattern to a stretch dress? I have a pattern that is for woven fabric which fits me perfectly and I want to make a dress with stretch fabric from the same pattern. Love your videos as they give such useful information.
I have never converted a woven pattern to sew with knits. I’d fold in the darts, since you don’t need them with knits. I’d check the stretch and figure out the fit you want and the size down on the woven pattern according to the amount of ease. Hope that makes sense. If not send me an email😉
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this video!!
Since I started sewing, knits have always annoyed me. The stable knits usually turned out fine or jersey knits such as for a T-shirt. I am presently facing the projects of making joggers/yoga pants and leggings because my doctors have said, "get moving" and I don't have anything suitable to wear to the gym. A person doesn't want anything that's going to flap around to get caught on something or make one sweat too much like sweat pants. Mostly I have knocking around the house stuff or things good for yard work, gardening and the like.
With the information presented here, I can create some nice looking tops and bottoms so I'll feel somewhat less self-conscious when working out. I just received the patterns I ordered and ready to shop for the knits they require.
Now all that's left is for me to decide whether to sew all these projects on my sewing machine or try using my cranky serger... (actually the serger makes me cranky. LOL) I have a great sewing machine with lots of stretch stitches that I trust more than the serger. Time to replace it?
You are very welcome. I’m so glad it helped you figure out knits! I recently made 2 knit dresses using my serger and they were super fast to sew. Both turned out well and fit great. I have a baby lock Allure which is self-threading and that makes everything so much easier.
Really interesting!
Thanks for watching! 😊
When I bought patterns, I always bought for my largest measurement. Then they came up with adjustable patterns and I started making copies of the original and not cutting the original.
I copy the originals from Indie patterns because they’re so expensive. Most of the time I buy commercial patterns on sale and I just cut them.
My first sewing project was in a knit 😂 I thought it's better to plunge in and learn how to swim...
I spent years just being terrified of knits-I should have just gone for it!!
Not everyone wants negative ease. It depends on the look you prefer.
Maybe not. But if you want it to look like the dress in the photo on the envelope and you don’t factor in the stretch of your fabric, it 100% won’t work.
I kinda agree. With tops and dresses, I usually prefer them to be 'figure skimming' or just 'skintight', but not actually stretched over my body.
And in that case, it doesn't really matter, how stretchy the knit fabric is, as I only need the stretch to put the garment on and take it off. And for freedom of movement/comfort.
I mean, I can see this mattering with leggings, say. Or a swimsuit. But for everyday clothing? I have never once in my life given particular thought to this and my garments have always turned out fine.
When you are adding the stretch measurement isn’t it stretching 2” per 5” piece. So a 35” bust will have 14” extra? As there 7 of the 5” pieces in the bust?
So confused. X
The five inches is for the purpose of determining the total stretch percentage of the fabric. It’s not going to change with a longer length; it’s just to make the math easy. Start with the 5” and the see how much stretch you get without distorting the fabric design. Then add however many inches it is to the finished measurements and figure which size will fit you best 😉
You are correct. Stretch is proportional. It means for every 5” add 2” or for every 10” add 4”, etc.
I typically have used a 4" swatch and figure for each inch its 25%. Is this wrong to do it the way im doing it?@SewSewLounge
Thanks - I’d never thought of this! So you don’t have to account for the extra inch for every 4 inches of fabric?
The percentage of stretch is for the fabric as a whole. You’re just using a smaller piece for measuring.
I took the time once had fabric store even help me and it was so big. I had to take it all in. Didn't look like a sac but looked 3 sizes too big yet tailored.
The problem these days is a lot of people who work in fabric stores know nothing about fabric! Thanks for watching.
I have come to the conclusion that the people who design patterns for the big four do not actually sew. I have much better luck with indie patterns. Yes, I love that ruler from stitch buzz. I use it every time I sew a knit garment
The knit stretch rule for StitchBuzz is the best! Total game changer for sewing knits!!!
The Big 4 are designing and sizing for a huge population of different bodies. Added ease can be way more than in indie patterns. Vogue doesn't have the huge ease that McCalls & Butterick do, IMO. I use Vogue more than the other Big 4 brands because of that.
although I am horrified of sewing with knits, interesting video! perhaps ill try one day,
They aren’t as scary as you think they are. Trust me 😉
Shouldn’t it be 1 or 2 inch stretch for every 5 inches? Not 1 or 2 inch stretch for overall garment? I’m confused
Agree totally. Makes no sense otherwise.
No, the 1-2 inch stretch is the overall ease. If you did 1-2 inches per every 5 inches you would end up with 6-12 inches ease for a 30inch waist, for example. Way too much ;)
The 5 inches is to make the math easy. The percentage of stretch isn’t going to change with a longer length of fabric it will stay the same.
How can a college course tell you knits are 'too hard'?? I did an evening course in 1984, through a chain of knit fabric stores and it was the most useful sewing related classes I ever did.
Not only did they say they were hard, but they wouldn’t let us use knits for our design projects.
Isn’t the % of knit stretch more accurate? The inches of stretch you calculated were for a 5 inch swatch of fabric. Assuming your garment is larger than 5 inches wouldn’t the ease be more than the 1” or 2 inches per 5 inch sample?
The percentage of stretch doesn’t change. 1” of 5” is 20%-it’s marked on the ruler.
I find that some of the fabric recommendations on the pattern can be wrong🤗
So true! Or the fabric recommended have completely different amounts of stretch which will make the pattern fit differently depending on which one you use!