Many moons ago, when I was young, I worked at a fabric store that was well known for cutting yardage on grain by clipping into the selvedge and pulling a thread to establish a cutting line. It was tedious, but accurate.
I have a friend who worked at Hancock fabrics in college and that’s what she’d do when quilters showed up 15 min before the store closed with a stack of fabric. 🤣 It’s my preferred method when using plain weave fabrics. But it doesn’t work with twill or satin weave fabrics, which is what prompted this video.
Love your tips. I am a self taught sewer with many bad habits engrained over the years. Your tips will encourage me to start from scratch the correct way. Thank you!
I have a whole process when I bring fabric into my home. If it's a woven I serge the edges and then wash (preshrink) my fabric. When it's done in the dryer that is when I put the fabric on grain. This is when you can tell how badly they cut the fabric from the bolt in the fabric store. I had one that I actually lost entire half yard because they didn't even try to square it up at the cutting table. I do the same process with wovens but don't bother to serge the edges because they won't ravel. When it's a dry clean only fabric I still square the yardage but because it hasn't been preshrunk i.e. washed I know it's a dry clean only fabric. All the steps are done before the fabric goes into my "stash".
Wow, that is an impressive process!! I usually prewash fabric and get it on grain right before I use it. Joann’s is the worst for off grain fabric-I’ve lost a half yard too because it was on the bolt wrong!
Thank you so much. This was very helpful. I also have a twill fabric and I tried tearing it to get on grain but I was told since it has a diagonal weave it won’t tear straight. Your method just seems so easy to follow!
Clip and rip is the method I use most of the time since I’m usually sewing with plain weave fabric. But now that I’m using denim, I needed a new method!
I've found that just because you can even up the ends on flat fabric doesn't necessarily mean that the cloth was then on grain. I've always first washed my goods which often put things to rights just by getting the sizing out. Then I examine the fabric by pulling a thread all across from selvedge to selvedge and lining up that pulled thread; the thread pulling can be tricky on finer weaves although impossible on knit (unless the cat has clawed it--don't recommend that though). If all that proves it to be off grain, I pull the fabric diagonally in the direction that needs to be corrected. Once corrected, the fabric can either be ironed with lots of steam to set it or drape it over the ironing board overnight but double check the next day. The fabric being off grain is seldom a problem with higher quality goods. Less expensive yardage is pretty much a roll of the dice but sometimes it's too pretty to pass up. I've never encountered a grain issue with batiks. Knits are the same. If they are a good quality piece of yardage, it usually not a problem; the apparent crookedness is usually how it's been cut off the bolt so I usually request an extra quarter yard if it seems to be running that way and then use the technique shown in the video. For denim or any other yardage that's not a plain weave, I do default to the technique illustrated in the video because it's almost always too hard to pull a thread but I do check if it can be done. This is how I learned to get things on grain. If it's a small project such as a small satin bag, I may not bother. But for most things, I check. Believe it or not, it makes sewing your project much easier because the fabric isn't twisting around unexpectedly leaving the sewist to manhandle pieces into place. Grain is also very important when doing larger projects like a wedding dress or floor to ceiling drapes for the living room because on grain fabric will make the project hang on the body or wall as intended. Yes, grain is very important. Thanks for bringing up this important topic.
I love the tear method, personally. But with twill fabric this was the only option. It takes longer but it’s worth the effort. I also thought that expensive fabric would be more on grain than the cheap stuff. Except recently my friend had a horrible time with a very expensive off grain fabric, which blew that theory out of the water!
This is part of the reason I always buy an extra 1/8 - 1/4 yard. I know that sounds likea lot of rxtra but after working at a fabric store I have seen some interesting yardages.
Toni, This was great information! I have done that with my fabric not knowing that I was putting it on grain.😊 What iron do you have? It looked like it put out a lot of steam.
Well demonstrated, however, if fabric is to go into your stash, leaving pins in is not a good idea. I machine baste the edge before folding and storing. Pins have a nasty habit of going rusty quickly here in New Zealand and I don't want to waste fabric due to rust marks
I have a piece of quilting fabric. After I tore the edges, it would not lay flat with the selvedge edges until the "grain" edges were off on either end, just like your denim was. I don't know which to trust, the torn edge or the selvedge where the fabric lies flat. Should I tear off the selvedge too, or just cut it off straight like you did?
@@allaneball7453 it’s on grain once the selvage lines up. With quilting cotton you can just tear one the grain at one end and the line up the selvage. Then the bottom will be uneven which is fine. And you line everything up from the top. The fabric in the video is a twill so I can’t tear it.
I don’t have a lot of experience with silky fabric because it’s challenging to sew and I generally want my sewing to be fast and easy. Make sure you use a very fine/thin needle 60/8 size that will help. You may also want to test out your stitch length on a scrap. I’ve heard a walking foot helps keep the fabric smooth but I’ve never used one.
Do you have any suggestions for making more space LOL? My problem is finding space to spread out the fabric. I cut out in sections. I have a cutting table, but it's not really long enough. I wish I had the kind of table they have on Project Runway. I also work with knits and drapey fabrics like rayon, and they're so unmanageable. Patience is the key.
I wish I had a table like they do on Project Runway!! I just got a new cutting table for my birthday which is a good size, but the fabric still hangs off the end if it’s more than 2 yards.
I have the same issue. I place a chair or small table at the end to hold the extra so its not tugging at what is on the table. Or straighten on the floor.
i am a beginner, i have a big bunch (almost a store) lot f fabric, being a beginner i have bought tons and tons of fabric on sale....they are now sitting in bins and all mixed up. i am having a hard time to determine what type of fabric they are. Some i know its knits, cotton, crepes.....but many i have no clue on how to pint point what they are. would you have a video on this?
Hi there, I guess I have been one of uour sikent warchers. This video I was curious about your ironing board. Is the Iron station part of your ironing board or was it purchased separatly? Enjoy your videos, by the way.😊😊
Thanks for watching! Yes the ironing board is all one piece. The iron holder can be vertical or flat. It’s a Brabantia (size C) ironing board. I got it on Amazon but for some reason they aren’t carrying it right now.
@@SewSewLounge In Lafayette Indiana. They were so so generous with the fabric when measuring. They had the best fabrics. I still have some in my stash. Now that I’m back to sewing I’m bringing those lush fabrics back out. All washed. and straightened with little tags with the yardage attached. Now if I can just bring my sewing back up to snuff.
Many moons ago, when I was young, I worked at a fabric store that was well known for cutting yardage on grain by clipping into the selvedge and pulling a thread to establish a cutting line. It was tedious, but accurate.
Wow I have never seen this at a fabric store. But I have always known about the technique as it was always in old sewing books.
I have a friend who worked at Hancock fabrics in college and that’s what she’d do when quilters showed up 15 min before the store closed with a stack of fabric. 🤣
It’s my preferred method when using plain weave fabrics. But it doesn’t work with twill or satin weave fabrics, which is what prompted this video.
It’s very satisfying, unless your fabric is really off grain and you ending up losing a half yard.
Hooray, I'll definitely be using this method from now on! 😉
THANK YOU!!
Love your tips. I am a self taught sewer with many bad habits engrained over the years. Your tips will encourage me to start from scratch the correct way. Thank you!
You're very welcome! So glad they're helping.
I have a whole process when I bring fabric into my home. If it's a woven I serge the edges and then wash (preshrink) my fabric. When it's done in the dryer that is when I put the fabric on grain. This is when you can tell how badly they cut the fabric from the bolt in the fabric store. I had one that I actually lost entire half yard because they didn't even try to square it up at the cutting table. I do the same process with wovens but don't bother to serge the edges because they won't ravel. When it's a dry clean only fabric I still square the yardage but because it hasn't been preshrunk i.e. washed I know it's a dry clean only fabric. All the steps are done before the fabric goes into my "stash".
Wow, that is an impressive process!! I usually prewash fabric and get it on grain right before I use it. Joann’s is the worst for off grain fabric-I’ve lost a half yard too because it was on the bolt wrong!
Thank you so much. This was very helpful. I also have a twill fabric and I tried tearing it to get on grain but I was told since it has a diagonal weave it won’t tear straight. Your method just seems so easy to follow!
It’s surprisingly easy! Just take your time to get it all smoothed out 😉
❤ needed to know ❤️ /. I used the clip and rip method. Now I know that isn’t the end all, be all. 🙏🏼
Clip and rip is the method I use most of the time since I’m usually sewing with plain weave fabric. But now that I’m using denim, I needed a new method!
I've found that just because you can even up the ends on flat fabric doesn't necessarily mean that the cloth was then on grain. I've always first washed my goods which often put things to rights just by getting the sizing out. Then I examine the fabric by pulling a thread all across from selvedge to selvedge and lining up that pulled thread; the thread pulling can be tricky on finer weaves although impossible on knit (unless the cat has clawed it--don't recommend that though). If all that proves it to be off grain, I pull the fabric diagonally in the direction that needs to be corrected. Once corrected, the fabric can either be ironed with lots of steam to set it or drape it over the ironing board overnight but double check the next day.
The fabric being off grain is seldom a problem with higher quality goods. Less expensive yardage is pretty much a roll of the dice but sometimes it's too pretty to pass up. I've never encountered a grain issue with batiks. Knits are the same. If they are a good quality piece of yardage, it usually not a problem; the apparent crookedness is usually how it's been cut off the bolt so I usually request an extra quarter yard if it seems to be running that way and then use the technique shown in the video.
For denim or any other yardage that's not a plain weave, I do default to the technique illustrated in the video because it's almost always too hard to pull a thread but I do check if it can be done.
This is how I learned to get things on grain. If it's a small project such as a small satin bag, I may not bother. But for most things, I check. Believe it or not, it makes sewing your project much easier because the fabric isn't twisting around unexpectedly leaving the sewist to manhandle pieces into place. Grain is also very important when doing larger projects like a wedding dress or floor to ceiling drapes for the living room because on grain fabric will make the project hang on the body or wall as intended.
Yes, grain is very important. Thanks for bringing up this important topic.
I love the tear method, personally. But with twill fabric this was the only option. It takes longer but it’s worth the effort.
I also thought that expensive fabric would be more on grain than the cheap stuff. Except recently my friend had a horrible time with a very expensive off grain fabric, which blew that theory out of the water!
Another great educational video. I needed to know this. Thank you!
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching ☺️
This is part of the reason I always buy an extra 1/8 - 1/4 yard. I know that sounds likea lot of rxtra but after working at a fabric store I have seen some interesting yardages.
I do the same thing!!! You NEVER know how off grain you yardage is and I’ve gotten stuck with too little fabric to make my project.
Wow, I have actually been doing this for years 😊
Doesn’t that make you feel good? 😉
Toni, This was great information! I have done that with my fabric not knowing that I was putting it on grain.😊 What iron do you have? It looked like it put out a lot of steam.
Thanks Zelda! It’s a Rowenta Accessteam. They have them on Amazon. It’s really great!
Another super helpful video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your support ❤️
Thank you for making this video. This is so helpful!!!
Thanks for watching!! You’re very welcome ☺️
Well demonstrated, however, if fabric is to go into your stash, leaving pins in is not a good idea. I machine baste the edge before folding and storing. Pins have a nasty habit of going rusty quickly here in New Zealand and I don't want to waste fabric due to rust marks
Thanks for your concern, but it’s sitting on a table out of view. I’m not folding it and having to re-iron it 🤣 but good tip! Thanks for sharing.
WOW you learn something new everyday! Thank You for this, so helpful for my future sewing 😊
You’re welcome! Glad to know it will help future you 😉
Thank you for sharing this info with us. It was very helpful!
You’re welcome Glenda! Thank YOU for watching ❤️
Thank you so much I'll be doing that every time now😊
You’re very welcome ☺️
Thanks, Toni, such a helpful tip.
You are very welcome ❤️
I’ve always struggled with this in all fabrics except ones that can be ripped. Thank you so much! Headed to watch the knit video 😉
You’re welcome Brenda! Thanks for your support❤️
Thank you for this tip
You are very welcome ❤️
I’m only getting sound out of left speaker??
Sometimes my mic only records mono for some reason and I didn’t catch it. Apologies. No one else has mentioned there was a problem.
Same here
I have a piece of quilting fabric. After I tore the edges, it would not lay flat with the selvedge edges until the "grain" edges were off on either end, just like your denim was. I don't know which to trust, the torn edge or the selvedge where the fabric lies flat. Should I tear off the selvedge too, or just cut it off straight like you did?
@@allaneball7453 it’s on grain once the selvage lines up. With quilting cotton you can just tear one the grain at one end and the line up the selvage. Then the bottom will be uneven which is fine. And you line everything up from the top. The fabric in the video is a twill so I can’t tear it.
Amazing thank you
You’re very welcome 😊
Do you have any tips on sewing in a silky fabric without getting pulls and catches?
I don’t have a lot of experience with silky fabric because it’s challenging to sew and I generally want my sewing to be fast and easy. Make sure you use a very fine/thin needle 60/8 size that will help. You may also want to test out your stitch length on a scrap. I’ve heard a walking foot helps keep the fabric smooth but I’ve never used one.
Also use a round tip needle, so it slides into the weave instead of catching.
Very helpful. Thanks!
You’re welcome ☺️
Do you have any suggestions for making more space LOL? My problem is finding space to spread out the fabric. I cut out in sections. I have a cutting table, but it's not really long enough. I wish I had the kind of table they have on Project Runway. I also work with knits and drapey fabrics like rayon, and they're so unmanageable. Patience is the key.
I wish I had a table like they do on Project Runway!! I just got a new cutting table for my birthday which is a good size, but the fabric still hangs off the end if it’s more than 2 yards.
That’s my problem. The table handles maybe two yards.
I have the same issue. I place a chair or small table at the end to hold the extra so its not tugging at what is on the table. Or straighten on the floor.
Good idea. I cut off sections and work in sections. I cannot work on the floor!
i am a beginner, i have a big bunch (almost a store) lot f fabric, being a beginner i have bought tons and tons of fabric on sale....they are now sitting in bins and all mixed up. i am having a hard time to determine what type of fabric they are. Some i know its knits, cotton, crepes.....but many i have no clue on how to pint point what they are. would you have a video on this?
I don’t have a video on fabric types yet. But I’m creating a workshop about fabric that will be launched later this year.
Great videos
Thanks! 🥳
Hi there, I guess I have been one of uour sikent warchers. This video I was curious about your ironing board. Is the Iron station part of your ironing board or was it purchased separatly? Enjoy your videos, by the way.😊😊
Thanks for watching! Yes the ironing board is all one piece. The iron holder can be vertical or flat. It’s a Brabantia (size C) ironing board. I got it on Amazon but for some reason they aren’t carrying it right now.
I was taught to stretch it on the bias until it lays nice
That works too, but not for fabrics that don’t stretch as well on the bias.
Me too.🥰
where did you get your iron rest?
It’s part of the ironing board. The ironing board is a Brabantia available on Amazon.
@@SewSewLounge i looked on amazon already & will look again for yours. thanks for replying.
Thanks!
You’re welcome ☺️
I used to drive a good distance to buy fabrics that were cut on grain and they added fabric ON BOTH ENDS for fabrics that couldn’t be torn!
Wow! That sounds like a great fabric store. I’ve never heard of any store doing that.
@@SewSewLounge In Lafayette Indiana. They were so so generous with the fabric when measuring. They had the best fabrics. I still have some in my stash. Now that I’m back to sewing I’m bringing those lush fabrics back out. All washed. and straightened with little tags with the yardage attached. Now if I can just bring my sewing back up to snuff.