This would be very much appreciated! So much time is spent on the videos the hope is that viewers (like yourself) can help spread the word about the channel;-)
No saying the complex recipes do not work, there just may be some items added that are not doing much for the plants. The goal should be to eliminate those not contributing to cut down on costs while still maintaining the yield.
I see. I cut out azomite and noticed zero difference and saving money. I've really simplified my peat based mix and I'm still having great results. in the beginning I was doing toooo much.
Thank you Professor Debacco. Your knowledge and videos are priceless to many, myself included. You help feed my insatiable hunger for knowledge. I have been following Dr. Bugbee also. I try to stay strictly natural/organic, and HATE to add man made unless there is absolutely no other option. May I inquire if you have any video lectures on wood ash? I haven't seen any, but I may have missed it. I have been working on my own recipe for soil, but have also been considering soilless. In your base recipe, 50g Dolomatic Limestone is added for raising Ph among the benefit of High Mg levels. What are your thoughts of either mixing ash with Dolomatic lime, or just ash itself? The combination of D Lime and Gypsum sounds to be a perfect cal/mag benefit, however, ash contains much more needed nutrition as you know. I also understand that it's easy to go overboard. I would greatly appreciate more knowledge of using wood ash, among many other things I would like your opinion on, as I have a great deal of respect for your knowledge. Thank you for your time.
No direct videos, but wood ash (Potash) is very basic (so no need for lime) and typically high in potassium. So, if anything you would be adding something acidic to lower the pH.
Ph 5.5 during vegetative state, sit he plant can efficiently use the nitrogen and then bump up to 6.5 during the flower cycle, so the plant can effectively make use of all the potassium and phosphate
@@DeBaccoUniversity I love it when Bro Science tries to compete with real Science 😅 What makes those People think the can do better than a whole University🤭
I have been adding 40 grams of dolomite lime in slow release form because that is what i have and 10 gram gypsum and perlite which also raises ph slightly and worm casting and my run off with is 6.8 so I ph my water at 6.2 and everything is working fine. Had I added 50 grams of line that might have been to much.
Yes, that is what I am using. Dr. DeBacco's source is Dr. Bruce Bugbee who is amazing as well. Dr. DeBacco and Dr. Bugbee are great resources and they are PhD educated. So glad I've found them.
Thanks for sharing all these. 50/50 is volume ratio right? so should I mix them dry or this 50/50 is for the wet material? cause I guess the volume ratio may change after water absorbtion
I used this 50% peat 50% verm mix, pH cam back to 5.1 with a pour through. I mixed by eye in a 17 gallon tub so I added 110 g of dolo lime and 22g of gypsum. Should I add more lime? Maybe i didn't eyeball enough vermiculite?
thanks for these informative videos - just wanted to add that starting with a commercial mix like Promix means you don't have to add lime or gypsum as you would with raw peat moss. The manufacturer will have added lime to balance the pH. For organic growers there is Promix MP Organik or Lambert LM111 organic. As Professor Debacco says the ingredients in these are standardized for commercial growers and held consistent from run to run. I started making my own mix with these years ago due to the consistency problems mentioned in the video, that is excellent advice IMO.
Professor, does this mix help with soil born pest prevention? I'm an indoor cultivator and just went through battling hemp russet mites for the first time. After my last harvest I bleached the tent and waited 3 weeks but they still came back. I've waited about 2 months to start the new crop but am so afraid of the mites coming back because I was not able to pin down their origin. Could've been my clothes, the soil, etc. Any suggestions regarding hemp russet mites would be greatly appreciated. I had been using azamax and spinosad as a prevention, sulfur spray when I caught the infestation
Do a full cleaning of all equipment and containers. Bring in some new soilless media and the hope is you will be starting sterile and avoiding potential disease issues. Many issues start in the media the plants are growing in.
Where I’m getting confused is with the term “soilless”, but the bags read “Potting Soil”… So when the recipe says “soilless mix”, is there any potting soil in the mix? The ingredients don’t list potting soil, so is the “soilless mix” recipe a substitution for a potting soil? I’m super confused? And for f’s sake why don’t recipes come in gallon pot conversions rather than cubic ft/yards/meters?Dude, I’m not a math scientist, I’m just some guy trying to grow Cannabis!😂
Regular dirt indoors, you don't need nothing else, taste and quality is only found using regular dirt. I should know I've grown for over 45 years. Great video on bag soil, but it is a waste of money. Regular dirt will produce your best plants Vermiculite is dangerous, never use it.
This video is why you need to listen to me when it comes to growing. I'm shocked you're misleading people on soil to use. PH doesn't matter, the carbon effect of peat is the same amount release as America's cars , yes the same amount, please never buy peat Moss and especially vermiculite. Don't believe either one is needed. You risk lives and the planet. I still respect you and your work man, but you need to be careful on this subject. Research material debacco, I'm sure you can expose the real truth , you're smarter than this... it's okay I'm not mad at ya.. but soil bag is bad for us and the environment. Cannabis grows best in regular dirt, I'll teach everyone how to build a soil with regular dirt.
Thx for the great credible info and quick response. Will definitely be sharing your videos to friends and forums.
This would be very much appreciated! So much time is spent on the videos the hope is that viewers (like yourself) can help spread the word about the channel;-)
@@DeBaccoUniversity Will spread anywhere, so great stuff!!
My super soil recipe is very close to the complex one on the right. It does well
No saying the complex recipes do not work, there just may be some items added that are not doing much for the plants. The goal should be to eliminate those not contributing to cut down on costs while still maintaining the yield.
I see. I cut out azomite and noticed zero difference and saving money. I've really simplified my peat based mix and I'm still having great results. in the beginning I was doing toooo much.
Nice video! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you Professor Debacco. Your knowledge and videos are priceless to many, myself included. You help feed my insatiable hunger for knowledge. I have been following Dr. Bugbee also. I try to stay strictly natural/organic, and HATE to add man made unless there is absolutely no other option. May I inquire if you have any video lectures on wood ash? I haven't seen any, but I may have missed it. I have been working on my own recipe for soil, but have also been considering soilless. In your base recipe, 50g Dolomatic Limestone is added for raising Ph among the benefit of High Mg levels. What are your thoughts of either mixing ash with Dolomatic lime, or just ash itself? The combination of D Lime and Gypsum sounds to be a perfect cal/mag benefit, however, ash contains much more needed nutrition as you know. I also understand that it's easy to go overboard. I would greatly appreciate more knowledge of using wood ash, among many other things I would like your opinion on, as I have a great deal of respect for your knowledge. Thank you for your time.
No direct videos, but wood ash (Potash) is very basic (so no need for lime) and typically high in potassium. So, if anything you would be adding something acidic to lower the pH.
Ph 5.5 during vegetative state, sit he plant can efficiently use the nitrogen and then bump up to 6.5 during the flower cycle, so the plant can effectively make use of all the potassium and phosphate
5.5 is on the low side and may result in nutrients not being plant available.
@@DeBaccoUniversity I love it when Bro Science tries to compete with real Science 😅
What makes those People think the can do better than a whole University🤭
I have been adding 40 grams of dolomite lime in slow release form because that is what i have and 10 gram gypsum and perlite which also raises ph slightly and worm casting and my run off with is 6.8 so I ph my water at 6.2 and everything is working fine. Had I added 50 grams of line that might have been to much.
Lime takes time to adjust the pH.
That’s a really good suggested mix.
Thanks for the comment!
Yes, that is what I am using. Dr. DeBacco's source is Dr. Bruce Bugbee who is amazing as well. Dr. DeBacco and Dr. Bugbee are great resources and they are PhD educated. So glad I've found them.
@@David-we3sbI’m going to use that mix for everything.
Dr your videos are amazing. Would be soooo coool if you did a grow series xD alot of us are so tired of 'bro science'
This is an overview example of an outdoor location.... ua-cam.com/video/R0DocsILFlI/v-deo.html
@@DeBaccoUniversity wow cool thank you
Thank you and your videos. Pls Can you tell me the fastest way to raise my soil with a low pH of about 5.0 to 6.5?
Hydrated lime.
This might be a dumb question but is asbestos a concern with vermiculite?
Thanks for sharing all these. 50/50 is volume ratio right? so should I mix them dry or this 50/50 is for the wet material? cause I guess the volume ratio may change after water absorbtion
And by the way sorry if the question is too basic, It's my first time trying to grow a plant
That is a good starting point.
I used this 50% peat 50% verm mix, pH cam back to 5.1 with a pour through. I mixed by eye in a 17 gallon tub so I added 110 g of dolo lime and 22g of gypsum. Should I add more lime? Maybe i didn't eyeball enough vermiculite?
If the pH of the water before adding is near neutral, than yes more lime would be needed in the situation you have described.
@@DeBaccoUniversity ok, yes I used distilled water on the pour through. i'll just keep adding 10 g of lime and monitoring, thx.
thanks for these informative videos - just wanted to add that starting with a commercial mix like Promix means you don't have to add lime or gypsum as you would with raw peat moss. The manufacturer will have added lime to balance the pH. For organic growers there is Promix MP Organik or Lambert LM111 organic. As Professor Debacco says the ingredients in these are standardized for commercial growers and held consistent from run to run. I started making my own mix with these years ago due to the consistency problems mentioned in the video, that is excellent advice IMO.
Great point thanks for adding it!
Professor, does this mix help with soil born pest prevention? I'm an indoor cultivator and just went through battling hemp russet mites for the first time. After my last harvest I bleached the tent and waited 3 weeks but they still came back. I've waited about 2 months to start the new crop but am so afraid of the mites coming back because I was not able to pin down their origin. Could've been my clothes, the soil, etc. Any suggestions regarding hemp russet mites would be greatly appreciated. I had been using azamax and spinosad as a prevention, sulfur spray when I caught the infestation
Do a full cleaning of all equipment and containers. Bring in some new soilless media and the hope is you will be starting sterile and avoiding potential disease issues. Many issues start in the media the plants are growing in.
What type of vermiculite do i use? Grade 3 or 4?
Course grade 3 is a good starting point.
Peat moss has a carbon effect, never use peat Moss, my show on Liz Grow Calling All Growers goes in to full details why.
Can you provide a quick summary why here?
@@DeBaccoUniversity more than 1 Year later... I guess he cant 😅
Do you know that perlite contain silicon as well?
Not very plant available.
Where I’m getting confused is with the term “soilless”, but the bags read “Potting Soil”… So when the recipe says “soilless mix”, is there any potting soil in the mix? The ingredients don’t list potting soil, so is the “soilless mix” recipe a substitution for a potting soil? I’m super confused? And for f’s sake why don’t recipes come in gallon pot conversions rather than cubic ft/yards/meters?Dude, I’m not a math scientist, I’m just some guy trying to grow Cannabis!😂
Technically two different products, soil-less is typically mostly peat moss or coco coir.
Algorithm
Thanks for the help.
Regular dirt indoors, you don't need nothing else, taste and quality is only found using regular dirt. I should know I've grown for over 45 years.
Great video on bag soil, but it is a waste of money. Regular dirt will produce your best plants
Vermiculite is dangerous, never use it.
Why do you say Vermiculite is dangerous?
@@DeBaccoUniversity He has no clue 😅
This video is why you need to listen to me when it comes to growing. I'm shocked you're misleading people on soil to use. PH doesn't matter, the carbon effect of peat is the same amount release as America's cars , yes the same amount, please never buy peat Moss and especially vermiculite.
Don't believe either one is needed. You risk lives and the planet.
I still respect you and your work man, but you need to be careful on this subject.
Research material debacco, I'm sure you can expose the real truth , you're smarter than this... it's okay I'm not mad at ya.. but soil bag is bad for us and the environment.
Cannabis grows best in regular dirt, I'll teach everyone how to build a soil with regular dirt.
Why does pH not matter?
@@DeBaccoUniversity Again, no clue 😆