I have had success with XYZPrinting ABS adhering by using 3M Scotch - Blue Printers Tape for Multi-Surfaces #2090 with an application of Elmer's All Purpose Glue Stick on the surface of the Blue Tape. The build used a raft and the XYZ temperature settings for the heated build plate. I used the same combination when printing XYZPrinting PLA and had difficulty removing the printed object. Eventually, I waited until the build plate cooled to 50 F and then removed the PLA object with the XYZPrinting putty knife. The next time I print PLA, I won't use the Elmer's Glue Stick. I use two strips of 7/8" and two strips of 2/3/4" Blue Tape to cover the heated aluminum build plate without any overlap of the tape, that is, there is a very small space between Blue Tape strips.
I think that when you are going to stop using Glue stick, You might have a problem with objects getting loose mid print. But you don't need to use glue stick all over the print bed. If you are printing only one object, then using the glue stick in a small stripe can just be enough. That way you can easily get the putty knife under your object and remove it from the build plate.
Can I reload a cartage with new XYZ filament (or maybe from another company), when I tell the printer to load filament, but not from the carnage, but still use the cartage as the spool? I hope this makes sense. Thanks!
Hi, Yes you can do that. The only thing you have to make sure is to remove the chip in the cartridge. This isn't difficult and you will see how to do this when you have the cartridge open. Have a nice Christmas.
Brian I love your videos and I finally calibrated my bed. I tried printing out the sample keychain and it printed like it was sliding down a hill, how can I fix this problem? Thanks!
Hi Rose. I think you have a problem with the thickness of your extruded plastic. Looks like you have set your extrusion multiplier on a rather low value. Try bringing it up in steps fo 10%
Hello, maybe you can help me. I have unwanted lines in my 3d print design when it's done printing it looks like travels lines those are very annoying and vissible. do you know how i make that annoying unwanted lines disappear. please i hope to hear from you
There can be a lot of reasons why you are experiencing lines in your print. Without me seeing them, I can't tell you what the problem is. Maybe you can film it, and upload it to UA-cam? Then, leave a link here and I will take a look.
Hi Brian, than you for your review. I have a question: The expensive spool or cartridge you are showing at the begining of the video, this device has to be replaced everytime you need another bobin of the brand? Is like you change the filament bobin = you need to use another spool? I'm not clear about the use of this device.
On the Da Vinci Pro, you are allowed to use other filament. But you must first print a filament spool holder. It's something you can select in the menu.
I printed your filament holder as well but it wont line up with the filament box is inside the printer as well. Does it have to be removed? Sorry if this is a stupid question.
+Richard Maddock Hi Richard, This is no stupid question at all. It is possible to leave the filament box inside and use my holder for an external filament. If it goes wrong with you, you don't have it enough to the right side of the printer (seen from the front). That said, You don't want to leave the filament box to stay inside of the printer for another reason. If you leave it there, the printer thinks you are using the cartridge, no matter what you say in your XYZWare for Pro slicer. So it will also count down your meters of filament left in the cartridge. As this counter goes to zero, you are "officially" not able to print with it anymore. Of course you can still say you use external filament and that will work, but then you don't have any accurate way of knowing how many filament there is left in the cartridge.
Hi Brian my original problem has been fixed. Now my heated print bed on my XYZ Da Vinci Jr. is not heating. Do you have a solution or do I need to replace the heat bed? Thank you.
Before you change the bed, measure the power on the wires going to the bed. Is the bed defective, is there a short circuit, or is there something wrong with the power going towards the bed? Only when you know this, you know if it's advisable to replace the heated bed.
@@rosebarrette6292 Using a multimeter you can measure the voltage by placing the black pin on the ground connection of the printer and the red pin on the wires of the bed. Now you can measure the voltage used to drive the heating elements in the bed. Don't measure the amperage of the bed by interrupting one of the wires of the bed with the multimeter unless you are very sure your meter can handle the current.
Does anybody know what will make the print head go to the far front right and grid? I think it might be an "X" axis sensor gone bad. The only thing is you can not find the parts for these machines anywhere.
It's a nightmare to do repairs on this machine (or any other XYZPrinting printer) because you can't get parts. Best advice I can give you is to watch the UA-cam video's explaining how to turn this printer into a normal Marlin driven printer by buying another motherboard, Ramps board and some end stop. It can be done for less than 100 Euro and in about 2 hours of time if you know what you are doing. If not, study the video's about this build and take a day for it. But, to answer your question, the sensor is just a simple microswitch if you have an early model or a opto coupler if you have a more recent model.
@@3dPrintCreator I finally got it fixed. I was wondering why the gantry did not move back and forth even when though the power was turned off on the printer. So I gave it a good push and it popped loose. Now it moves back and forth. The belts then became a little loose. So I took some belt tensioners from an old Kossel 3D printer and put them on the belts to tighten them up nice. Then I calibrated the machine and now it is printing. I just have a problem of the prints sticking to the platform when I use PLA. So today. I think I will do a check off the z offset. Then maybe adjust up or down according to how close the print head is to the bed. Hopefully, I get it fine tuned.
If a print does not stick to the bed, this can have various causes that are all fairly easy to solve. - Check if the print bed is properly calibrated and if it is not too far from the nozzle. Make sure that the filament that comes out of the nozzle is pushed 'into' the bed really well and that it is not 'on' the bed. To do this well, make sure you print something big and do it very slowly. This gives you the option to adjust the bed while printing the first few lines. - Look at your bed to see if it is good enough to print on. If you print on paper, replace it. If you print on BuildTak or Kapton tape, lightly sand it with 200 grid sandpaper. Then make sure there are no scraps of sandpaper on the bed, you do this by pulling all the junk off the bed with adhesive tape. - Make sure your filament is not too old. Old PLA filament is a disaster to work with. If filament is too old and all of the above solutions do not help, try new (good quality) filament.
@@3dPrintCreator Yeah, I know all about that stuff. I am just dialing it in now. It takes a lot to get it perfect. I always liked using regular yellow tape with no glue when using PLA. So far best results have been with capton tape and extra strength glue stick. I have a older Davinci Jr. 1.0 that only uses PLA. I used regular yellow tape and no glue at all. Do you know that printer has been the best printer I ever owned. I have not bought one part for it and the prints are perfect every time. To bad it is only a PLA printer and has to use XYZ filament. But for test designing it serves it's purpose. I have been working with the "Z" axis on the Davinci Pro 1.0 to get it perfect. I find once you get the bed level. Leave it! And deal with the "Z" axis. And using the standard PLA profile is now working well. Next step is to try ABS. Right now I do not believe the saying old filament will not work. Because I am using ColorFabb that is about at least 4 years old. And it is working like a boss. I also tried 6 year old clear cheap filament from an old Kossell 3D printer I bought from China. It printed perfect. So to me old filament is still good. If you have it. You might as well try it.
The problem is, it's different for brands of filament. I have PLA and PETG filaments that when you print it, start to boil because of all the moisture it absorbed. Then again I have other PLA filament (like indeed, some Colorfabb PLA and NGEN) that works flawless. Yet, I know when people can't print well and the filament breaks from the bed all the time, most of the time it's old filament. When everything else has been tried, then try another spool of new filament and 9 out of 10, the problems are gone.
+Per Olsen Yes it's possible, but you have to print slowly because the extruder can only get to 240C. I printed a lot of nylon at this temperature with 15mm/sec.
I have a da vinci 1.0 pro, and when i print ABS, almost always the print fail, because at a given moment the, a few cm into the print the printer starts "ticking", but that gets worse, and worse, and after a while, it looks like the steppenmotor can't get the ABS through no more, and "eats" into the plastic, and the head just moves without plastic comming out. I tried to turn the speed down, and put the extrusion ratio to 100%, but nothing works. Do you have any idea what setting i have wrong?
You have not told what your settings are, but it could be a temperature problem where the nozzle is just not hot enough. It could also be that your extrusion speed is set to high, or that your flament is old and moist. Last possibility I can think of is a worn nozzle that needs to be replaced.
@@3dPrintCreator Thanks for the tips. I print ABS at 240oC and the bed at 90oC. And the shell, and infill speed at 30. I set the infill, and shell extrusion from 97% and 98% both back to 100% (the lower setting is for PLA, to prevent too much clicking). Is a worn nozzle also noticable while printing PLA? Because PLA always prints well. The nozzle has 920 hours of printing time, but the ABS problem started way earlyer..
It's about discovering where the clicks come from. If this is the extruder, then he cannot transport the filament at the speed at which he can also put it on the print. Then the nozzle is too small (or the nozzle setting is too large), or the extruder thinks it moves less filament than what it actually moves (e-steps settings). If the click sounds come from the filament hose coming along the roof of the printer, you can place a smooth surface under the roof so that the hose no longer touches the edges that are visible in the top of the printer. If the nozzle hits the print, the bed is not properly level with the printhead. So there can be multiple types of clicks, all of which are annoying.
I maybe found the problem. After 75% a pla print of about 7 hours total failed, and i wanted to change the cartridge, but for the second time the pla has propably accumulated between the feeding tube and the hot end, because it can’t be pulled back no more, so i’m going to remove the head. The printer was still in “unload” mode, cooling, and i tried the head release knob, and the fan kicked in for a second or so, and did that again when i tried that knob. So i jiggled with the fan wire, and the connector is plugged in correctly, but i saw the whole mount moving along with the wire, and the fan reacted to movement, so i’m gonna try to solder the mount again to see if it helps.
I don't own a 3D printer and I'am considering getting the Da Vinci Pro as my first printer would you recommend it for someone who has never had a 3D printer before. Thanks you.
Hi Kurt, Yes and no. It was also my first printer and I think it's a great machine. That said, it's also a machine that requires a bit of knowledge from it's user and the out of the box experience can be a bit disappointing. For it's money I still think you can't get a better printer, but you can get an easier one. Every Prusa I3 model is easier to use, but can do less then the Da Vinci Pro. If you follow my video's, you will see that I use another material on the bed then XYZPrinting provided me. I also use other brands of filament and I have made some things to make the printer better then it was. But, and that is the great thing about this printer, it's all possible. With this machine you can print ABS, PLA, NYLON and PETG. And when you tinker the machine a little, you can even print more materials, but are you willing to tinker? If you want to play safe and easy, buy yourself a Prusa model. If you want the best printer and are willing to experiment and learn, then for sure buy the Da Vinci Pro.
Hi Davon, What kind of buildplate are you using? The printer itself can't be good or bad for sticking ABS to the buildplate because you have to get a sticker for your buildplate yourself. If you choose to work with blue painters tape, you should also use glue stick, just like with Kapton Tape, then you should also use glue stick. But... If you use BuildTak, ZebraPlate, BuildinZ or PEI as a buildplate, you don't have to use glue stick and you have to read the instructions very carefully because ABS sticks so damn good that you can hardly remove it from the plate if you don't follow the instructions. Hope this helps you, Good luck. Brian.
Okay, then there must be something wrong with the Z offset. Have you calibrated the machine and tested the distance of the nozzle from the Buildplate by hand? You must have just enough room to move a businesscard between the nozzle and the BuildTak and feel the tention on the card. Also, try cleaning the BuildTak with IsoPropyl Alcohol, this reactivates it if it doesn't stick anymore. Also, is it original BuildTak? The first time I bought BuildTak, I bought crapy Chinese Sh*t that didn't work but looked like the real thing. After I bought the original BuildTak, it worked way better.
Did you buy it at a store that you trust? I bought my first BuildTak in China and received some fake BuildTak. Then, when I bought it twice as expensive in The Netherlands (where I live), I received the good one.
I have had success with XYZPrinting ABS adhering by using 3M Scotch - Blue Printers Tape for Multi-Surfaces #2090 with an application of Elmer's All Purpose Glue Stick on the surface of the Blue Tape. The build used a raft and the XYZ temperature settings for the heated build plate. I used the same combination when printing XYZPrinting PLA and had difficulty removing the printed object. Eventually, I waited until the build plate cooled to 50 F and then removed the PLA object with the XYZPrinting putty knife. The next time I print PLA, I won't use the Elmer's Glue Stick. I use two strips of 7/8" and two strips of 2/3/4" Blue Tape to cover the heated aluminum build plate without any overlap of the tape, that is, there is a very small space between Blue Tape strips.
I think that when you are going to stop using Glue stick, You might have a problem with objects getting loose mid print.
But you don't need to use glue stick all over the print bed. If you are printing only one object, then using the glue stick in a small stripe can just be enough. That way you can easily get the putty knife under your object and remove it from the build plate.
Can I reload a cartage with new XYZ filament (or maybe from another company), when I tell the printer to load filament, but not from the carnage, but still use the cartage as the spool? I hope this makes sense. Thanks!
Hi,
Yes you can do that. The only thing you have to make sure is to remove the chip in the cartridge.
This isn't difficult and you will see how to do this when you have the cartridge open.
Have a nice Christmas.
Brian I love your videos and I finally calibrated my bed. I tried printing out the sample keychain and it printed like it was sliding down a hill, how can I fix this problem? Thanks!
Hi Rose,
I don't think I understand your problem you are experiencing. Do you mean the print looks as if the bed is placed under an angle?
@@3dPrintCreator No, I mean the print is not solid and is stringy.
Hi Rose.
I think you have a problem with the thickness of your extruded plastic. Looks like you have set your extrusion multiplier on a rather low value. Try bringing it up in steps fo 10%
Hello, maybe you can help me. I have unwanted lines in my 3d print design when it's done printing it looks like travels lines those are very annoying and vissible. do you know how i make that annoying unwanted lines disappear. please i hope to hear from you
There can be a lot of reasons why you are experiencing lines in your print. Without me seeing them, I can't tell you what the problem is.
Maybe you can film it, and upload it to UA-cam?
Then, leave a link here and I will take a look.
Hi Brian, than you for your review. I have a question: The expensive spool or cartridge you are showing at the begining of the video, this device has to be replaced everytime you need another bobin of the brand? Is like you change the filament bobin = you need to use another spool? I'm not clear about the use of this device.
On the Da Vinci Pro, you are allowed to use other filament. But you must first print a filament spool holder.
It's something you can select in the menu.
I printed your filament holder as well but it wont line up with the filament box is inside the printer as well. Does it have to be removed? Sorry if this is a stupid question.
+Richard Maddock Hi Richard, This is no stupid question at all. It is possible to leave the filament box inside and use my holder for an external filament. If it goes wrong with you, you don't have it enough to the right side of the printer (seen from the front).
That said, You don't want to leave the filament box to stay inside of the printer for another reason. If you leave it there, the printer thinks you are using the cartridge, no matter what you say in your XYZWare for Pro slicer. So it will also count down your meters of filament left in the cartridge. As this counter goes to zero, you are "officially" not able to print with it anymore. Of course you can still say you use external filament and that will work, but then you don't have any accurate way of knowing how many filament there is left in the cartridge.
Hi Brian my original problem has been fixed. Now my heated print bed on my XYZ Da Vinci Jr. is not heating. Do you have a solution or do I need to replace the heat bed? Thank you.
Before you change the bed, measure the power on the wires going to the bed. Is the bed defective, is there a short circuit, or is there something wrong with the power going towards the bed?
Only when you know this, you know if it's advisable to replace the heated bed.
@@3dPrintCreator how do you measure the power to the bed?
@@rosebarrette6292 Using a multimeter you can measure the voltage by placing the black pin on the ground connection of the printer and the red pin on the wires of the bed. Now you can measure the voltage used to drive the heating elements in the bed.
Don't measure the amperage of the bed by interrupting one of the wires of the bed with the multimeter unless you are very sure your meter can handle the current.
Does anybody know what will make the print head go to the far front right and grid? I think it might be an "X" axis sensor gone bad. The only thing is you can not find the parts for these machines anywhere.
It's a nightmare to do repairs on this machine (or any other XYZPrinting printer) because you can't get parts.
Best advice I can give you is to watch the UA-cam video's explaining how to turn this printer into a normal Marlin driven printer by buying another motherboard, Ramps board and some end stop.
It can be done for less than 100 Euro and in about 2 hours of time if you know what you are doing. If not, study the video's about this build and take a day for it.
But, to answer your question, the sensor is just a simple microswitch if you have an early model or a opto coupler if you have a more recent model.
@@3dPrintCreator I finally got it fixed. I was wondering why the gantry did not move back and forth even when though the power was turned off on the printer. So I gave it a good push and it popped loose. Now it moves back and forth. The belts then became a little loose. So I took some belt tensioners from an old Kossel 3D printer and put them on the belts to tighten them up nice. Then I calibrated the machine and now it is printing. I just have a problem of the prints sticking to the platform when I use PLA. So today. I think I will do a check off the z offset. Then maybe adjust up or down according to how close the print head is to the bed. Hopefully, I get it fine tuned.
If a print does not stick to the bed, this can have various causes that are all fairly easy to solve.
- Check if the print bed is properly calibrated and if it is not too far from the nozzle. Make sure that the filament that comes out of the nozzle is pushed 'into' the bed really well and that it is not 'on' the bed.
To do this well, make sure you print something big and do it very slowly. This gives you the option to adjust the bed while printing the first few lines.
- Look at your bed to see if it is good enough to print on. If you print on paper, replace it. If you print on BuildTak or Kapton tape, lightly sand it with 200 grid sandpaper. Then make sure there are no scraps of sandpaper on the bed, you do this by pulling all the junk off the bed with adhesive tape.
- Make sure your filament is not too old. Old PLA filament is a disaster to work with. If filament is too old and all of the above solutions do not help, try new (good quality) filament.
@@3dPrintCreator Yeah, I know all about that stuff. I am just dialing it in now. It takes a lot to get it perfect. I always liked using regular yellow tape with no glue when using PLA. So far best results have been with capton tape and extra strength glue stick. I have a older Davinci Jr. 1.0 that only uses PLA. I used regular yellow tape and no glue at all. Do you know that printer has been the best printer I ever owned. I have not bought one part for it and the prints are perfect every time. To bad it is only a PLA printer and has to use XYZ filament. But for test designing it serves it's purpose. I have been working with the "Z" axis on the Davinci Pro 1.0 to get it perfect. I find once you get the bed level. Leave it! And deal with the "Z" axis. And using the standard PLA profile is now working well. Next step is to try ABS. Right now I do not believe the saying old filament will not work. Because I am using ColorFabb that is about at least 4 years old. And it is working like a boss. I also tried 6 year old clear cheap filament from an old Kossell 3D printer I bought from China. It printed perfect. So to me old filament is still good. If you have it. You might as well try it.
The problem is, it's different for brands of filament. I have PLA and PETG filaments that when you print it, start to boil because of all the moisture it absorbed. Then again I have other PLA filament (like indeed, some Colorfabb PLA and NGEN) that works flawless.
Yet, I know when people can't print well and the filament breaks from the bed all the time, most of the time it's old filament. When everything else has been tried, then try another spool of new filament and 9 out of 10, the problems are gone.
Hey. Nice video. Can you print Nylon with the daVinci 1.0 Pro?
+Per olsen yes you can print with nylon
+Per Olsen Yes it's possible, but you have to print slowly because the extruder can only get to 240C. I printed a lot of nylon at this temperature with 15mm/sec.
I have a da vinci 1.0 pro, and when i print ABS, almost always the print fail, because at a given moment the, a few cm into the print the printer starts "ticking", but that gets worse, and worse, and after a while, it looks like the steppenmotor can't get the ABS through no more, and "eats" into the plastic, and the head just moves without plastic comming out. I tried to turn the speed down, and put the extrusion ratio to 100%, but nothing works. Do you have any idea what setting i have wrong?
You have not told what your settings are, but it could be a temperature problem where the nozzle is just not hot enough. It could also be that your extrusion speed is set to high, or that your flament is old and moist. Last possibility I can think of is a worn nozzle that needs to be replaced.
@@3dPrintCreator Thanks for the tips. I print ABS at 240oC and the bed at 90oC. And the shell, and infill speed at 30. I set the infill, and shell extrusion from 97% and 98% both back to 100% (the lower setting is for PLA, to prevent too much clicking). Is a worn nozzle also noticable while printing PLA? Because PLA always prints well. The nozzle has 920 hours of printing time, but the ABS problem started way earlyer..
It's about discovering where the clicks come from. If this is the extruder, then he cannot transport the filament at the speed at which he can also put it on the print. Then the nozzle is too small (or the nozzle setting is too large), or the extruder thinks it moves less filament than what it actually moves (e-steps settings).
If the click sounds come from the filament hose coming along the roof of the printer, you can place a smooth surface under the roof so that the hose no longer touches the edges that are visible in the top of the printer.
If the nozzle hits the print, the bed is not properly level with the printhead.
So there can be multiple types of clicks, all of which are annoying.
I maybe found the problem. After 75% a pla print of about 7 hours total failed, and i wanted to change the cartridge, but for the second time the pla has propably accumulated between the feeding tube and the hot end, because it can’t be pulled back no more, so i’m going to remove the head. The printer was still in “unload” mode, cooling, and i tried the head release knob, and the fan kicked in for a second or so, and did that again when i tried that knob. So i jiggled with the fan wire, and the connector is plugged in correctly, but i saw the whole mount moving along with the wire, and the fan reacted to movement, so i’m gonna try to solder the mount again to see if it helps.
I don't own a 3D printer and I'am considering getting the Da Vinci Pro as my first printer would you recommend it for someone who has never had a 3D printer before. Thanks you.
Hi Kurt,
Yes and no. It was also my first printer and I think it's a great machine. That said, it's also a machine that requires a bit of knowledge from it's user and the out of the box experience can be a bit disappointing.
For it's money I still think you can't get a better printer, but you can get an easier one. Every Prusa I3 model is easier to use, but can do less then the Da Vinci Pro.
If you follow my video's, you will see that I use another material on the bed then XYZPrinting provided me. I also use other brands of filament and I have made some things to make the printer better then it was. But, and that is the great thing about this printer, it's all possible. With this machine you can print ABS, PLA, NYLON and PETG. And when you tinker the machine a little, you can even print more materials, but are you willing to tinker?
If you want to play safe and easy, buy yourself a Prusa model. If you want the best printer and are willing to experiment and learn, then for sure buy the Da Vinci Pro.
for some reason nothing I do gets the ABS to stick to the build plate. Divinci pro sucks as far as that's concerned
Hi Davon,
What kind of buildplate are you using?
The printer itself can't be good or bad for sticking ABS to the buildplate because you have to get a sticker for your buildplate yourself.
If you choose to work with blue painters tape, you should also use glue stick, just like with Kapton Tape, then you should also use glue stick.
But... If you use BuildTak, ZebraPlate, BuildinZ or PEI as a buildplate, you don't have to use glue stick and you have to read the instructions very carefully because ABS sticks so damn good that you can hardly remove it from the plate if you don't follow the instructions.
Hope this helps you, Good luck.
Brian.
+3d Print Creator I use buildtak and even that isn't working. I wish I cud send a picture
Okay, then there must be something wrong with the Z offset. Have you calibrated the machine and tested the distance of the nozzle from the Buildplate by hand?
You must have just enough room to move a businesscard between the nozzle and the BuildTak and feel the tention on the card. Also, try cleaning the BuildTak with IsoPropyl Alcohol, this reactivates it if it doesn't stick anymore.
Also, is it original BuildTak? The first time I bought BuildTak, I bought crapy Chinese Sh*t that didn't work but looked like the real thing. After I bought the original BuildTak, it worked way better.
+3d Print Creator idk it says buildtak on the bottom right corner.
Did you buy it at a store that you trust? I bought my first BuildTak in China and received some fake BuildTak.
Then, when I bought it twice as expensive in The Netherlands (where I live), I received the good one.