When i create multiple process in simplify3d for either infill or temperature changes a easy way to figure out where you want the next change to be in your print with out measuring is to create the first process and estimate the height then slice it and you will see exactly where the first process ends then you can go back and make changes and pin point exactly where your second process can start
Hopefully i wont miss your live stream this time around i was wondering if you can show us what you do for preventative maintenance on your machine like lubricating bearing and rods etc..
I have a printer like you DaVinci Pro. You could give somewhere tables with your set up printers on PETG, ABS and PLA so that I would have a reference (temperature, speed, retractions, extrusion ratio). I know that filament brands differ but I would treat it as a reference.
Hi Lukasz, I think for about a year now I don't have a Da Vinci Pro anymore. I have a home made printer in the frame of the Da Vinci Pro but it's not at all an XYZPrinting machine anymore. That said, The normal settings for PLA are 185 to 205 degrees Celcius, a printingspeed of about 50mm sec (faster is possible, but not with the Da Vinci), 20mm retraction with a retraction speed of 50 to 100mm per second. For ABS 235 degrees at 25mm/sec with the same retraction settings and the same for PETG. In fact I have a bunch of video's about these materials.
My flavor of PETG white is so stringy above 220, so I'm having much luck printing at 215/41 with a thin layer of GLUE STIC on glass, and set retraction to about 5mm. Also, getting a nice speed of 60mm/s.. also noting that movement between prints is at my max 100mm/s to minimize oozing! See my latest video.
I have noticed that white PETG behaves a little different from the other colors. I also tested some white and had to use a lower temperature for it. Also, I saw you are using less retraction then I do (I use 6mm) and I will give that a try as well. My biggest problem though is that I have to use a different temperature for massive structures then for thin walls. If you try to print a block that is 10x10x10mm with on top a wall of only 10x2x10 then you will notice the wall has a totaly different structure then the block has. This is only solvable by changing the printing temperature.
I have a davinci pro 1.0 with an upgraded E3d extruder and extra fan, I print at 0.25 layer height at 80mm/s and I get phenomenal prints. I did many of the upgrades. For better quality prints I print at 0.2 layer height at 60mm/s and at 0.15 layer height I do 50mm/s. The new updated software from XYZ is a breeze to work with once installed.
Hi, I have modified a few Da Vinci Pro's with Bowden E3D V6 hot-ends and I am going to do this one as well, but for the sake of making some video's that has to wait a few more weeks.
Almost every slicer I know has a vase mode. Some call it spiral vase, some call it vase, but they all do the same thing. When turned on, the slicer converts a solid body into outlines without any infill and with only 1 perimiter. If you have bottom solid layers turned on, you will have a bottom in your vase. Make sure not to have top solid layers turned on, as then you will have no opening in the vase.
PETG is not more abrasive then other soft filaments, like PLA or ABS. That said, every filament will over time wear the nozzle as brass is a soft material. It is however not like metal filled filaments. Then for the second question, I have not found a replacement nozzle for the Da Vinco Pro printers but I replaced my hot-end for another hot-end. There are many instructions online on how to change the printer to an E3Dv6 hot-end and this really improves the print quality a lot and gives you the option to change the nozzle to other sizes or materials.
Hi Henrik, I am pretty happy with the REAL filament, including their PETG. That said, I have had some comments from others that saw me buy a lot of REAL filament a week ago, and they said that the REAL filament is not consistently 1.75mm thick, and therefore i can cause jams. To my own experience I must say I have never had any problem with REAL filament and I have used a good few kilograms of it, but this is what people told me.
Thank You. I've had issues when switching between pla and petg causing jamed extruder. Variations in diameter often results in poor print quality and not jams according to my experience. I think I'll give it a try.
Brian, is it accurate that you can control the DaVinci Pro nozzle temperature from within Simplify 3D? I thought it was only adjustable from the printer itself (user filament setting).
Hi Jim. Back in the days I had the printer, it was possible to control the nozzle and bed temperature in a wider range then normally accepted with the XYZPrinting software. However, they changed this in the firmware of the printer and if you have this newer firmware, you are not able to control the nozzle and bed outside the range anymore.
Hey Brian, just wanted to know if the parts for that you suggested for the da Vinci 1.0 Pro should be printed in PETG or ABS? Also do I have to use XYZ software and is matter control compatible? Or do I have to buy simplify 3d work?
I used PETG for the parts, but I am sure ABS would work fine as well (and even PLA would do wonders here). I don't know about Matter control, as I don't have that. I don't have the Da Vinci printers anymore, so I can't test it for you. I bought Simplify3D just for the Da Vinci Pro, because back in the days, that was the only working software other then XYZWare for Pro. If you would ask me now, I don't think I would buy Simplify3d anymore, as other software improved so much, there is no need anymore for Simplify3d.
Yes the slicer is limited to 240C and no, you don't 'need' an aftermarket nozzle to work with PETG, I have done a lot of PETG prints with my original nozzle. The reason I went for another nozzle was because of the many hours I had on the original one and therefore I needed a now nozzle because the old one was worn. That said, the new nozzle does a better job printing difficult filaments because I took a hardened steel nozzle and not a brass one. That makes it possible to work with really abrasive materials, like carbon reinforced PLA and Glow in the Dark filaments are.
I am at this moment investigating how I can make the video's more compact. The thing is that I wish to tell things in an educational manner, and that means repeating things 3 times before they stick to someones mind. Maybe in the future, I will make more compact video's and also supply PDF files, but I have to dive into this.
3d Print Creator I understand. The video is very informative and it has great content. I appreciate the videos that you make. What settings did you use for the PETG and print speed?
Looking into PETG for a "side" project that I am hoping to work on. This was *very* helpful. Can you point me to some software that I can use to "layout" a box that I can use for creating a box containing www.seeedstudio.com Grove compatible parts? I have access to MS Visio for layout of the printable box to match the Grove parts. I am a Software Engineer trying to make my mark in rapid prototyping units for integration Thanks in advance.
When i create multiple process in simplify3d for either infill or temperature changes a easy way to figure out where you want the next change to be in your print with out measuring is to create the first process and estimate the height then slice it and you will see exactly where the first process ends then you can go back and make changes and pin point exactly where your second process can start
Yes, I know it's possible, but for some reason I didn't succeed doing that.
Hopefully i wont miss your live stream this time around i was wondering if you can show us what you do for preventative maintenance on your machine like lubricating bearing and rods etc..
I set a reminder for you :-)
Next livestream is tomorrow
3d Print Creator thank you Sir
How do you change the temperature mid print in Simplfy3d? I cant seem to figure it out. Any help will be appreciated
I have a printer like you DaVinci Pro. You could give somewhere tables with your set up printers on PETG, ABS and PLA so that I would have a reference (temperature, speed, retractions, extrusion ratio). I know that filament brands differ but I would treat it as a reference.
Hi Lukasz,
I think for about a year now I don't have a Da Vinci Pro anymore. I have a home made printer in the frame of the Da Vinci Pro but it's not at all an XYZPrinting machine anymore.
That said, The normal settings for PLA are 185 to 205 degrees Celcius, a printingspeed of about 50mm sec (faster is possible, but not with the Da Vinci), 20mm retraction with a retraction speed of 50 to 100mm per second.
For ABS 235 degrees at 25mm/sec with the same retraction settings and the same for PETG. In fact I have a bunch of video's about these materials.
My flavor of PETG white is so stringy above 220, so I'm having much luck printing at 215/41 with a thin layer of GLUE STIC on glass, and set retraction to about 5mm. Also, getting a nice speed of 60mm/s.. also noting that movement between prints is at my max 100mm/s to minimize oozing! See my latest video.
I have noticed that white PETG behaves a little different from the other colors.
I also tested some white and had to use a lower temperature for it. Also, I saw you are using less retraction then I do (I use 6mm) and I will give that a try as well.
My biggest problem though is that I have to use a different temperature for massive structures then for thin walls. If you try to print a block that is 10x10x10mm with on top a wall of only 10x2x10 then you will notice the wall has a totaly different structure then the block has. This is only solvable by changing the printing temperature.
I have a davinci pro 1.0 with an upgraded E3d extruder and extra fan, I print at 0.25 layer height at 80mm/s and I get phenomenal prints. I did many of the upgrades. For better quality prints I print at 0.2 layer height at 60mm/s and at 0.15 layer height I do 50mm/s. The new updated software from XYZ is a breeze to work with once installed.
Wow that sounds great.
Nice to hear you have got your printer under control at these great speeds.
Are your E3d Hot ends Bowden or Direct on your pro?
Hi, I have modified a few Da Vinci Pro's with Bowden E3D V6 hot-ends and I am going to do this one as well, but for the sake of making some video's that has to wait a few more weeks.
3d Print Creator I'm looking forward to that. im going to order one soon. I'm assuming I'd need the 12v e3d?
I use this types:
e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Bowden
Hi,
can you explain how to spiral vase mode in software.
=> I have problems to connect simplify3d with my DaVinci Pro
thanks
Almost every slicer I know has a vase mode.
Some call it spiral vase, some call it vase, but they all do the same thing.
When turned on, the slicer converts a solid body into outlines without any infill and with only 1 perimiter.
If you have bottom solid layers turned on, you will have a bottom in your vase. Make sure not to have top solid layers turned on, as then you will have no opening in the vase.
Will PETG damage the brass nozzle overtime on the XYZ Pro? Also can you buy replacements nozzles for the XYZ Pro? Thanks
PETG is not more abrasive then other soft filaments, like PLA or ABS. That said, every filament will over time wear the nozzle as brass is a soft material. It is however not like metal filled filaments.
Then for the second question, I have not found a replacement nozzle for the Da Vinco Pro printers but I replaced my hot-end for another hot-end. There are many instructions online on how to change the printer to an E3Dv6 hot-end and this really improves the print quality a lot and gives you the option to change the nozzle to other sizes or materials.
I'm using petg from esun but is looking for alternatives, would You recommend real filament? It's about €10 cheaper then esun so it's very interesting
Hi Henrik,
I am pretty happy with the REAL filament, including their PETG.
That said, I have had some comments from others that saw me buy a lot of REAL filament a week ago, and they said that the REAL filament is not consistently 1.75mm thick, and therefore i can cause jams.
To my own experience I must say I have never had any problem with REAL filament and I have used a good few kilograms of it, but this is what people told me.
Thank You. I've had issues when switching between pla and petg causing jamed extruder. Variations in diameter often results in poor print quality and not jams according to my experience. I think I'll give it a try.
Brian, is it accurate that you can control the DaVinci Pro nozzle temperature from within Simplify 3D? I thought it was only adjustable from the printer itself (user filament setting).
Hi Jim. Back in the days I had the printer, it was possible to control the nozzle and bed temperature in a wider range then normally accepted with the XYZPrinting software. However, they changed this in the firmware of the printer and if you have this newer firmware, you are not able to control the nozzle and bed outside the range anymore.
Hey Brian, just wanted to know if the parts for that you suggested for the da Vinci 1.0 Pro should be printed in PETG or ABS? Also do I have to use XYZ software and is matter control compatible? Or do I have to buy simplify 3d work?
I used PETG for the parts, but I am sure ABS would work fine as well (and even PLA would do wonders here).
I don't know about Matter control, as I don't have that. I don't have the Da Vinci printers anymore, so I can't test it for you.
I bought Simplify3D just for the Da Vinci Pro, because back in the days, that was the only working software other then XYZWare for Pro. If you would ask me now, I don't think I would buy Simplify3d anymore, as other software improved so much, there is no need anymore for Simplify3d.
You must be reading my mind... I'm battling with calibration RIGHT NOW!!!!
Same here, for the last 2 weeks :-(
Good luck
Is the stock xyzprinting slicer limiting temp to 240° or is it the extruder? will I need an aftermarket extruder&nozzle to print with PETG?
Yes the slicer is limited to 240C and no, you don't 'need' an aftermarket nozzle to work with PETG, I have done a lot of PETG prints with my original nozzle. The reason I went for another nozzle was because of the many hours I had on the original one and therefore I needed a now nozzle because the old one was worn.
That said, the new nozzle does a better job printing difficult filaments because I took a hardened steel nozzle and not a brass one. That makes it possible to work with really abrasive materials, like carbon reinforced PLA and Glow in the Dark filaments are.
With the new firmware and XYZware the hot end temp has been raised to 260, though I know not why. Thoughts?
I really wish the videos were a little bit shorter and I would like to see the settings you used!
I am at this moment investigating how I can make the video's more compact. The thing is that I wish to tell things in an educational manner, and that means repeating things 3 times before they stick to someones mind.
Maybe in the future, I will make more compact video's and also supply PDF files, but I have to dive into this.
3d Print Creator I understand. The video is very informative and it has great content. I appreciate the videos that you make. What settings did you use for the PETG and print speed?
Looking into PETG for a "side" project that I am hoping to work on. This was *very* helpful. Can you point me to some software that I can use to "layout" a box that I can use for creating a box containing www.seeedstudio.com Grove compatible parts? I have access to MS Visio for layout of the printable box to match the Grove parts.
I am a Software Engineer trying to make my mark in rapid prototyping units for integration
Thanks in advance.
When the first layer comes out just right
Help me a little, I don't understand your question or remark?
3d Print Creator remark