This is fantastic advice. Unfortunately, when I was at my brother's it was a) late in the evening so no plumbing supply places were open and b) Lowes/HD (which were open) don't carry nuts that large. I'll see if I can convince him to let me give it another try, with your technique, and see if we can get it out. Thanks!
@@ronstrode9124 You can use a EMT conduit lock nut off of a electrical box fitting. For example, here's a 1/2" fitting with a lock nut: www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-2-in-Electrical-Metallic-Tube-EMT-Set-Screw-Connectors-5-Pack-26270/100137321
While I just recently found your videos, I find them very informative and helpful. Being a Union Pipefitter actively working in the trade for 24 years and the last 10 retired, nothing bothers me more (pet peeve), than to see someone use a wrench the wrong way. First example was using the adjustable pliers backwards. The proper way is to push the wrench so that that the jaws of the wrench flex into the pipe or fitting and the teeth are angled in such a manner that they bite into whatever you are trying to loosen. Second example the nut to the anode rod should always have 3 points of contact with the adjustable wrench as well. In doing so you will have a much tighter connection with the nut and it will be less likely to slip. Lastly, when using the pipe wrench, it’s extremely important to establish 3 points of contact with the rod as well. The three points being the two jaws and the throat of the wrench. This, like the adjustable pliers, will make a much tighter bite due to the pitch of the teeth on the jaws. It may not have been as important in this application but when using a pipe wrench on pipes, maintaining a three point grip will prevent the pipe wrench from egging the pipe. (taking pipe out of round) I was always taught to always use a wrench the correct way they are intended to be used. I will agree with the others in saying your videos are very well done and you obviously are very talented at what you do. Also, you don’t have a lot of unnecessary words like umm or uhh being used. Great job!! Keep up the great, and informative videos!!
Hi David - I appreciate your constructive feedback. I'll be more careful in the future to demonstrate proper technique. In at least one instance, I purposely had to use a wrench backwards on a fitting as I was only using it to gently brace the fitting so I could apply torque to another part... but your points are all valid, and well explained. Thank you for taking the time to comment, and for watching some of my videos!
@@AmplifyDIYI would also like to add that, I think is best to use adjustable wrenches for nuts instead of players. You get a better fit and grip on the nut. Great video though, I learned something new regarding the anode rods.
I've watched two of your videos now and I must say that I think yours are among the best, regardless of subject matter. You don't stumble through your explanations, which are clear and concise. And, you hit some of the minor , but important considerations which, if missed, can lead to significant problems. Thanks for doing a great job.
I switched to the Corro-Protec powered anode rods. They completely eliminate the sulfuric smell, (which is CAUSED by the magnesium rod), and last 20 years. No need to change the anode rod every year. They are short and easily fit a tank with limited overhead clearance. No need to keep trying chlorine or hydrogen peroxide contortions to get rid of the sulfur smell. I expect to get 20 years of service out of my water heater. We do have a whole house water filter ahead of a water softener so there is very little issue with sediment and calcium entering the water heaters. And they do make them for the Bradford White application.
This is good advice, especially the note about why you shouldn’t drain the tank all the way & how to adjust the replacement rod so it is seated correctly. Also, it is very helpful that you had a leak because then viewers can see how to deal with it. Your systematic, careful, & well-researched instruction is incredibly helpful (especially as it is uncluttered by gratuitous graphics & sounds). Thank you!
This is the third water-heater video of yours that I've viewed. I like the pacing and sound quality of your videos. It's like you're standing near me and we're chatting while you describe what I need to do. It's also nice that the vids aren't jittery or shaky, are well lighted, and you zoom in for more detail when it is called for. All in all, these are great highly-usable instructional videos for DIY homeowners like me, which is why I have just subscribed!
@@AmplifyDIY ~ You're welcome ! :-) . I have a 40 gallon Rheem Performance Platinum water heater the landlord and I installed in 2015. I am on well water with hard mineral content; outside Boulder, Co. I run a gallon or two into a bucket once a month per the instructions that came with it. I am curious as to what the anode looks like and so look to how others go about changing one. Thanks for the help.
This was not the kind of anode I have, but the process and explanation is the best tutorial I have ever seen on UA-cam. This guy could teach anything to anyone!
When using a pipe wrench, always go for a three-point grip. The throat of the jaw opening should contact the pipe you're gripping. The third point of contact works against the jaws' crushing force. That said, the comments on inserting a filler rod and using lock nuts are spot on.
A note to the DIY'ers. When draining the tank using the garden hose, flush the tank. Leave the cold water on, open the drain, and flush out all the sediment and crap BEFORE you replace the anode rod. Shut the cold water off, open a hot water faucet to relieve the pressure, open the drain to drain off a couple gallons, amd start the anode replacement. Flush your tank once a year
Subscribed due to your video quality and thorough explanation of how to get 'er done without repeating yourself a million times as others seem to do in their videos. Great job and very well done, especially when you included the part regarding your brothers' heater issue and how you fixed it. Thank you for making this awesome video !
I’m a little late to the game. I have the very same Bradford white water heater sitting in my garage. Six years old. Lately been wanting to change the anode rod, and came across your video. First off, outstanding video! Well done kudos to you. I now have the confidence to do my own anode rod thanks to year well done and thought out video. Going to save me boat loads of money.😊😊👍
Awesome video, I replaced mine today on a Whirlpool Water Heater. I used a 1-1/16 socket and an impact driver to loosen it. A lot easier than your Bradford-White set up. Thanks again, and keep the videos coming, they’re excellent.
Not so easy on mine . The manufacturer epoxys the fitting in to keep owner from replacing. The difference in their 6 year warranty and 12 year warranty models is a heftier anode rod.
Great video, when replacing the drain valve, since the tank is empty, you can also access the heating element to replace it as well. I use a clear (So you can see the deposits) plastic hose a bit smaller than the element port size to vacuum out calcium from the bottom of the tank. I'm going to use the electronic anode rod that can last 2o years this week. It has a foot-long Titanium metal that doesn't get eaten up since the emitting electronic pulses do the work.
Love how detailed your videos are. My hot water heater is 15 years old and we bought the house about a year ago. I've thought about changing the anode rod several times but always talk myself out of it since the expansion tank is positioned almost directly above it and I hated to mess with it. At this point I think I'll just wait till the water heater fails and make sure the next one is installed so I can change the anode rod periodically.
My Bradford white is 15 years old as well. I would love to change the anode instead of the entire tank. What are the chances that this method would preserve the life of the tank and prevent it from busting?
I have the exact one and I'm on my third one, First lasted one month before the warranty ended so it was covered the second one around the 6 year mark but since it was the replacement it was not covered. when this one goes I'm changing brands.
Excellent video for replacing a Bradford-White anode rod. I especially liked three tips: 1) How to correctly wrap Teflon tape on tapered pipe threads; 2) Using Teflon tape and pipe dope together (40+ years of experience says to use both on metal pipe threads (steel; stainless-steel; aluminum & brass) and only Teflon tape on plastic threads (but you can still use both on plastic threads as long as the pipe dope is manufactured for plastic threads (i.e., PVC; CPVC; Polypropylene; ABS; PTFE; PFA; & FEP); 3) To prevent "cross-threading," reverse the direction of the pipe fitting while slightly pushing down on the pipe fitting in/on the female hole until you hear/feel a "click," then reverse the direction and tighten. This is also a good practice for "self-threading" screws in wood or plastic after the threads are created in wood or plastic (when re-installing these types of screws to prevent creating new threads "in-between" the old threads in the wood/plastic threaded hole - which weakens the mounting pressure.
I had a specific situation last year where I could not get some npt threads going into the cold side of my water heater to stop leaking even though I was using plenty of Teflon tape. Then I applied both Teflon tape and pipe dope and it worked flawlessly and I have yet to have that leak again. Now when connecting things like water heaters I always use both, there’s no harm in it:)
Had the same situation with the same Bradford White, had to remove the top of the heater, removed some foam insulation and the nipple without threads will be exposed for ~1 inch, should be enough to grab it with an adjustable wrench and of course don't forget WD40:) Steps I took to change the rod in my 10-15 years old water heater (after I removed the rod, there was nothing left, so, assume it was never changed): 1. Remove the top of the heater (5-6 screws) 2. Remove some foam/insulation and expose the whole nipple. 3. Apply lots and lots of WD40 and wait for ~30 mins. 4. Try to grab with an adjustable wrench and it should be good to go. 5. When you're going to remove the old rod, pay attention to the plastic white adapter that is attached to the nipple (the one that has a heat trap inside) - chances are it's going to break, so, slooooowly remove the rod using pliers, otherwise, you're risking to drop the remainings of the rod into the tank. 6. Flush the tank multiple times (I recommend to change the standard garden hose valve that comes with the heater to the 3/4'' ball valve - you will see the difference). 7. Enjoy the water heater for another 5-6 years. Then replace the rod again. The heater will last you decades ahead for $25-50 every 5-6 years.
Also at the end, don't forget to adjust the thermostat back to the desired temperature! This is the most detailed, careful video I've seen! Most videos don't even bother mentioning how Bradford White heaters have the anode in a different place! Subscribed.
Great video. I just removed my anode rod yesterday and sanded down all the calcium/lime that was on it. It was still in very good shape structurally . I was surprised at the design of your rod. I was under the impression that the rod metal had to be in contact with the tank metal in order for the sacrificial process to work. I know that's the case with a motor boat engine. Your rod seems to be isolated with the plastic collar which would not allow for the contact of the two metals. So I'm a little perplexed as to why they designed it that way. Personally I don't like the way yours is designed and integrated into the output line. To me having a separate anode hole and threaded section is much more straightforward and nicer. Thanks for sharing
You are 100% correct that the anode has to be connected with a conductive path to the steel of the tank. In the case of my anode shown in the video, it does it via the threads that are screwed into the tank itself. It's probably not obvious just by looking at the end of the anode, but I believe there is a small electrical conductor that connects the threads of the fitting to the anode at the bottom of the plastic valve. In fact, I just ran out and used a multi-meter to perform a continuity test on the old anode I pulled out of the heater in this video, and sure enough: the threads do have a conductive path to the anode rod. But I also really dislike how this has been integrated into the output line.
AmplifyDIY - thanks for the confirmation reply. I am replacing my neighbors anode tomorrow. It is at least 12 yrs old so I am not expecting much to be there. We flushed about 30 gallons out and had quite a bit of fine rust particles and small sediment particles. Not huge at all but I’m beginning to wonder whether the tank has been compromised due to never changing anode and hence more of the rusty looking particles. There’s not a lot of room either so I’m going with the four piece flex magnesium rod
That little core wire you observed is the connection. It runs through the plastic part somehow to connect with the fitting. If the anode were completely depleted, that wire would remain. The first part to corrode on that anode you removed was right at the top. Eventually, that would have corroded all the way through. Without the core wire there, the rest of the rod would have fallen to the bottom of the tank. This also explains that aluminum one you showed that was designed to bend: Without the core wire, the sections would soon corrode through at the thinned sections.
Right. That core wire is (I believe) a braided steel cable, that acts as both a conductor and structural component, just as you describe. Thanks for watching!
Years ago we had a stainless steel water heater it was still working fine at 30 years old. Works on ships the sacrificial anode. Fight current of water, wait for ebbtide.
This is now my second video that I have watched, that will yield immediate rewards. Again I mention the super high quality, audio, video and your lighting, if you notice you don't see the lighting reflected in his glasses which is not easy to do. The VIDEO FLOW is truly amazing, as others have already mentioned in the below comments. The editing is really good as well, and the music tracks running are there but just barely noticeable but needed. Needless to say that your voice and diction is spot on, not filled with tons of word fillers like many videos contains on YT. I will venture to say that perhaps you are a Virgo, seeking perfections in your creations. Hats off to your great work and thank you for informing us about things that we can do on our own safely while saving a chunk of money. I am now a subscriber
Followed this video, luckily mine was stuck up enough where I could grab under the threads like yours and not your brother's. Thanks so much for this, mine was corroded pretty bad, basically all the way down with crumbles of rusty metal on the center rod. I had quite a time getting it out given all the corrosion on the threaded area. I also used some cheap China made pipe wrenches that kept opening up on me while twisting it out...going to invest in some better ones. Thanks again!
I just scanned all the comments below.. and I won't bother with all the Praising I was about to Offer. EVERYBODY has said everything I would have said!.;.. in other words, YOU DA MAN !!! great job!!
I love in an area where water chemistry and a water softener results in the anode rod dissolving in two years. Best to check regularly or you could be buying a new water heater.
I use to install water heaters and i live in Canada. I think the chimney is called a DRAFT HOOD since this type of water heater is atmospheric ;since there was NOT a power vent on top the water heater. Atmospheric relies on only air from inside the room (Area) to mix with the natural gas to heat the water in the water heater. Power vent appliance (water heater) there is different manufacturers: Rheem, Rinnai etc., power vent exhausts the exhaust products then the electronic circuit board by timers sends messages to the sail switches to the electric /electronic circuits to make enough electricity for the safety to allow the main burner to the water heater to come on. I enjoyed the video though keep up the good work.
My water heater is 7 years old and I haven’t checked the anode rod specifically because there’s only about 18” of space above it. I didn’t even know that three section type of flexible anode existed. Thanks for the informative video. Now I don’t have an excuse to not check it! Lol
This is great in theory, but I talked to a couple veteran plumbers and they said do not fix it till it's broken. Doing any work or even draining your water heater can greatly shorten its life. it can actually lasts 50 to 70 years if you don't do anything to it. but you will make more work for yourself because you could actually break the water heater by repairing it. Thank you kind sir for your all your hard hard work it is educational.
Hi M P - I'm afraid the plumbers you spoke with are grossly misinformed. Heaters absolutely do require maintenance, and simply doing nothing drastically shortens their useful life. Don't take my word for it though, search google for something like "should I replace the anode in my water heater" and see what you find. I think you'll be surprised. Thanks for watching!
My water heater has a recessed anode, so I used a Bauer impact wrench (wired - has much more torque). You must use a 6 point inpact socket (27mm) to have this work! regular 12 point sockets will distort and round the head of the anode. After I got that impact socket, the anode came right out and was completely shot, so I'm glad I did this work
Thanks for the video. I just replaced the anode rod on my Bradford white water heater. problems everywhere! When I disconnected the hot water outlet, a lot of water went everywhere, even though I opened my hot water faucets, and drained the water heater somewhat. The insulation on the top of my water heater has been moist for days now, not sure how to dry it. The Copper to CPVC hot water outlet pipe broke its seal. Had to wait till the next morning to get to Home depot. they had a sharkbite water heater kit. Surprisingly, it was exactly what I needed. I didnt have to extend any cpvc. Plus it has a valve built in, so next time I wont have tons of water draining back.
Hi obtugtxivtub - The connection between the flex pipe and the top of the anode where I did *not* use tape specifically does not need it. That fitting employs a small rubber washer inside the flex pipe side (much like a garden hose) to make the connection watertight. Teflon tape and/or pipe dope is not needed there. I didn't mention it in the video because of the wide variety of other ways that heaters can be connected, and I didn't want to confuse anyone who may not have the same sort of connections. Thanks for watching!
About 13min in has an anode with life left he said could be put back in for a few more years left, and at 14:50 has a heat trap "valve" piece he also ordered with the magnesium anode, about $4-5 replacement. He hacked by hand the replacement magnesium rod (it can burn if it gets too hot) to match the length of the original anode rod to not damage his tank just in case when putting in the replacement that it's not too long as shown when ordered online. Has to add joint compound and Teflon tape (don't put the tape on backwards). Segmented anodes are a possibility depending on the room available above the tank. No crooked anodes, the water fights you. Don't damage the threads, pipe wrench needed. Love the video, didn't know anodes existed until today, sorry was taking notes or cliff notes rather to stay focused while my cat purrs on me and tries to get my attention. Last part of this video makes me think a pro might be having to do this switch, how often does an anode have life? Oh thanks on the Harbor freight $8 info on the pipe wrench.
Hi Jillio - great notes! You asked about anode lifespans: this varies a LOT based on a bunch of factors: do you have a water softener? How hard is your water? What specific minerals are dissolved in your water supply? How much hot water do you use in a year? - the list of variables goes on and on - but here is the general rule of thumb: Start checking your anode 3 years after it was first installed. If it still has most of it's mass, put it back in for another year. Once it looks to be all used up (any part of the steel core that runs the length of it is visible) it's time to replace it. In my area, they last around 5-7 years, depending on all the variables mentioned above. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for this detailed video. I had a leaking hot water outlet pipe that I needed to replace, so I figured I'd go ahead and replace the anode while I was at it. I had the same problem your brother had, but used the locknut trick some folks describe in the comments and was able to get it out. One thing I guess I was unprepared for was the amount of residual water left in the outlet piping. I know that wasn't really the focus of this video, but if I had to do it again I would be ready with a cap or plug to plug off the end while replacing the anode.
It’s obvious from what I’ve experienced that neither the manufacturers nor the plumbing supply shops are particularly interested in people doing this for the simple reason that it adds years of continued service to the hot water heater. One plumbing supply shop said that I should just replace a 6yo hot water Heater instead of replacing the anode. That would run me $1800 in NYC.
Notice how they grooved the fitting above the lower thread? It will bust off flush with the top of the tank unless you tighten it juust right or have no rust in the thread when loosening.
My former water heater was electric but was installed in 1999. Sold my house with it inside in 2017, still kicking. Changed the anode rod every 2 years.
6 years is a little young but there are so many things that can go wrong with a heater you don’t want to start being nickel and dimmed to death. When you have one problem, you might start having more, each of which can be fixed but at a price...that’s where I make easy money. I’m a master and been doing this for years. If YOU fix it then it’s worth fixing but if you have to keep paying a plumber, a lot of times a new one would be better. Statistical life span of a water heater is 8 to 12 years.
I just found out the anode rod needs to make metal to metal contact on the threads when replacing! You can't use too much dope/tape or it will not make contact.
If your old rod is still in good shape take a wire brush and clean of the nasty stuff and re-use it. Also when using thread tape it is a good idea to leave a couple threads bare so you can start it easier when re-installing your rod.
Exercise care using pipe wrench. Some anode rods assembled from the factory are so tight that we tend to use cheater bar for leverage. However, there is a danger that the anode rod pipe itself will collapse/crack and break right at the threading. That will be a bad day indeed. I use a socket wrench with the correct size inserted into the opening to prevent these mishaps.
Rheam WH has grey plastic collar cup in anode port. Mine leaks underneath this cap and out onto WH surface. Can this plastic collar be plucked out and replaced? Would this stop leak? The anode is new and tight with pipe dope and teflon tape in the right direction but still leaks under flange, not around the bolt.
After doing mine I can attest to using an impact wrench. I messed around with the cheater/breaker bar and saw others using an impact. Breaks that seat and use your ratchet to finish and use the ratch to reinstall. Impacts are your friend here
Excellent video! I am 72 and never understood why a water heater could suddenly spring a leak because it was 10 years old. Plumbers never tell you to replace anode bars every 3 years or drain the fixture every 6 months either. If we all did this, our water heaters might last for 20 years due to lack of corrosion…😂😡
Great question, David! That fitting already has a rubber gasket inside the house side of the connection that makes a great seal. Teflon tape there would be superfluous. I won’t hurt anything, but there is no reason to have it there at all.
Probably won’t be attempting this, because I recently installed a new water heater myself. But it’s good to know how to if I do at some point. Btw it was driving me mad that you didn’t clean the top the water heater before you started 😉
Heh. I like to leave things as they actually are, because the chances are that the top of everyone's heater is pretty dirty... having said that, I should have started with it still dirty (and shown it that way) then mentioned it would be a great time to clean it off and do so quickly in the video. Then the rest of the shots would be of a nice, clean heater top. I'll keep this in mind for future projects. Thanks for watching!
19:41 - This thread starting technique will work on _any_ thread type: NPT pipe, PVC adapter, machine threads, sheet metal threads, wood screw threads, Romex clamp locknut threads, nylon threads, etc. It even works on the fine threads of a Nikon camera lens adapter and the plastic cap of your milk jug! This is definitely a time saver and you’ll never “cross thread” again!
Yeah; did you notice the groove above the lower thread? It's there to weaken the fitting so it will break off flush with the top of the tank in the event of over-tightening or rust seizing the thread the least little bit when removing the thing. B*st*rds.
First great video just like all your other videos and i just have two questions 1. Why didn't you put thread sealant on the side connected to the house is that not recommended? 2. Question is what to do if i don't have flexible pipes like you have mine seemed to be just brass pipes on cold and hot side ( i also have the pleasure of owning a Bradford ) so what should i do and is there a ano rod on the cold water pipe also ?
@@By_Any_Means_Necessary 1) If the fittings above the nipples have rubber washers, then thread sealant is not required. Do not over tighten, that would damage the washer(s). 2) If you don't have flex pipes, the installer was an a-hole, lots of extra work required. 3) There's usually no anode rod below the cold inlet.
My water heater lasted 30 years. Didn’t flush it or replace the anode. Sometimes if it ain’t broke don’t fix it as you could cause more problems. Since the old anode was still good just leave it as is.
Great video, just finished mine. I would use smaller channel locks or something else to put the new anode rod in. I had the same size channel locks and they would have hit or tore up the new anode threads so I went with a smaller tool. Otherwise awesome video
Fantastic video, very professional. Great tips, esp about cutting magnesium! Going to drain flush and replace anode on mine soon, tho mine is a “standard” anode on its own bolt. But was buried under insulation I had to cut out first (Raheem brand).
@17:30 I've been so annoyed in other videos when they mention to "make sure you put the teflon on the right direction", then they do it backward. Thanks for pointing it out specifically.
Hi Karl - thank you for the kind words! The heat trap helps reduce radiant heat loss out the hot outlet when the hot water is not flowing. Great question, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for letting me know I do not want a Bradford White water heater. Ours is old enough I am scared to mess with it. Will run it till it leaks and then replace it with a tankless. I do need to change the rod in my father's heater. It is at least 5 years old.
Yeah, I'm not a huge fan of Bradford White's design with having the anode integrated on the output side. Other than that, the heater seems to be just fine. Thanks for watching!
Nice video! I also have a Bradford White water heater, and was wondering where the anode was. You might consider updating your video to deal with the fact that the rubber seals in the corrugated hot water heater supply line, especially on the hot water side, will become hardened and will often crack or just won't seal. They are replaceable, so you don't need to replace the corrugated supply line if they won't seal. I have included the part number and some links to the Danco version of them at the end of this comment. The proper replacements are not flat rubber washers -- they are actually beveled, with the outside edge being thicker than the inside. This is done to help insure that when they are tightened they properly seal, and to insure the connection is electrically insulated, forming what is called a "dielectric" connection (explanation below). These corrugated supply lines are intended to be dielectric, which means they electrically isolate the metal in the water heater from the house plumbing. This is necessary to prevent galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar metals in the water heater and the metals in your plumbing from occurring. Caution -- don't try and use a flat washer from a garden hose. While it may work for a while, it will fail -- especially on the hot water side where the seal takes a beating from the heat. The flat washer also may not properly electrically isolate the fitting. It's a bit of a pain to remove the old washer, because it usually has hardened up, but it can be done with some patience and either a pick, or a small flat bladed screw driver. Here are some tips: 1. Make sure you remove all of the old seal before pushing the replacement into place. 2. I recommend rinsing or blowing out the supply line to get rid of any bits that may have fallen inside during the removal -- you don't want those bits in your plumbing. 3. I recommend replacing the washers in both ends of the supply tube -- since you will have to remove the supply tube to rinse or blow it out anyway. 4. Make sure to work the replacement in so that it is fully seated against the bottom of the fitting all the way around, (and pull up on the threaded nut to make sure the rubber seal really is pushed all the way down inside). Don't use anything sharp to push the new sealing washer into place. You don't want to cut or gouge it. It's okay to use something dull if you need to -- just be careful. The Danco part number for the proper washer/seal is 65884B, and they sell for around $1.25-$1.40 each in most hardware stores and plumbing supply places. Here are two links to the washers (the DoitBest link shows a picture of the actual beveled washer, the AceHardware link just shows a picture of the bag): www.doitbest.com/shop/plumbing-supplies/pipe-fittings/sewer-and-drain-fittings/rubber-sewer-and-drain-washer-replacement/danco-1-in-water-supply-line-washer-replacement?SKU=492981 www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/faucet-and-faucet-repair/plumbing-washers/4023925 (Note the title at the DoitBest site is a bit misleading -- they call it a 1 inch washer, but it is intended to be used in a standard 3/4 inch corrugated water heater supply line. For some reason, Amazon is now charging $4.50 each for these Danco sealing washers (they used to sell them for 96 cents each a year ago), so it is much cheaper to get them from Ace Hardware or DoitBest hardware (I couldn't find them on the TrueValue site). Both of these national hardware chains will ship them to your local store for free so you can avoid any shipping charges by picking them up there. The big box stores don't seem to sell these sealing washers anymore -- instead they want to sell you a replacement supply tube for $20-$40.
Using Teflon tape can cause electrical insulation between the anode rod and the body of the tank. The anode rod must be electrically connected to the tank which forms the cathode in order for the anode rod to properly function. It was not said how long the Anode rod that was removed was in service, it looked like it was in a short time, or it was not functioning properly due to electrical isolation. Otherwise, a great presentation!
Hi Roland - When I filmed this video, the heater was a little less than 3 years old. So the amount of decay was expected. You bring up a good point about making sure there is good conductivity between the anode and the tank, though. Usually the threads have no problem cutting through the teflon tape and pipe dope to make a good connection, but it's a good idea to check with a multitester to make sure there is continuity after replacing an anode. Great tip, and thanks for watching!
Nice video, Since the anode rod needs a current flow between the steel tank and the rod it would probably be best not to use Teflon tape insulating the threads. The steel threads may cut through the tape anyway but why not just use a Teflon pipe dope instead then the threads will be in direct contact for sure.
You could use a multimeter to make sure the rod is connected to the steel tank. Just beep out the top of the rod to hot or cold pipe leaving the tank. Set your multimeter to ohms & it should measure zero.
Kudos to the original installers. I suspect the reason the anode is cut short is because they removed the anode before installing the water heater. After installing the heater, they found the anode was too long to install (thus too long to remove) and cut it to fit. OTOH, their foresight prevented us learning how to keep metal dust from falling into the water heater while hacksawing an anode being held by vise-grips,..
I suspect the original anode was installed at the factory, not by the plumber who installed the heater. As for metal flakes that may make their way into the tank: that's why there's a drain valve and flushing procedure for all water heaters - to flush out any junk that makes its way into your heater. Thanks for watching!
We recently bought a 5-year-old house that I wasn't sure if the water heater had ever been drained. After watching your very helpful video on draining I noticed a clear jelly-like substance being flushed out after agitating and draining my own tank. I flushed maybe 15 times because this jelly kept coming out. I believe this is a by-product of the anode deteriorating??? Also, is it a good idea to replace the anode even though the tank is 5 years old. I'm trying to make this water heater last a while. Thank you for your very detailed videos and help.
Glad to hear you found my video useful, and that you were able to follow the process to drain your own tank! Yes, the junk is likely a result of the reactions that occur when your anode is broken down. 5 years is plenty old enough to warrant at least checking the anode, if not replacing it. I'll bet there is not much left! Thanks for watching!
Your the only person I ever seen use Teflon tape with pipe dope, scratch the teflon, as the threads need to make contact with the female end, using teflon and dope will make the anode less effective.
Hi Landon - lots of people use both. As long as you tighten the fitting properly, plenty of surface are of the threads will cut through the teflon tape and make a good conduction path for the anode to work properly. Thanks for watching!
I had ABSOLUTELY NO LUCK getting the anode rod out of my 6 year old Rheem heater. Didn't even try a breaker bar, but went straight to the impact driver: Tried an air wrench, a hand/hammer powered impact wrench, and even borrowed a 20V electric wrench. Nothing would budge it. I did try a long breaker bar but it immediately started to turn the whole water heater. Gave up and am returning the anode rod!
If I inspect the anode rod while doing my annual flush and fill of my hot water tank, my understanding is it's a good idea to pull out the anode after a couple of gallons have drained (so I still have the benefit of the weight of the water in the tank to help me while I'm loosening the anode). Would it be okay, though, to replace the anode, if necessary, when the tank is empty (since the water current presents a challenge in returning the anode to the tank)?
Yes, you can definitely do it this way, with one caveat: You do want to make sure that the new anode is in tightly, or it may leak. So, after you have threaded it into an empty tank to be at least snug, fill the tank back up and do a final tightening on the anode to make sure it is tight enough. Good luck!
Very informative, thanks. Why order a new heat trap though? Can't the old one be reused? It isn't metallic so it won't corrode. And yes, both Lowes and HomeDepot carry Eastman anode rods which include suitable replacements for Bradford White.
...so just when I find a video that shows me how easy it is to replace the rod I realize whoever installed my heater used copper pipes and solder so I can't remove the fittings. Womderfulll!!!! the copper ends and is clamped to a PVC pipe. Now I'll have to find a video that shows me how to fix this problem.
Very instructional video and very well narrated and demonstrated. Thank you! I have a double vented Bradford White gas powered water tank and I ordered the replacement anode rods before realizing that I only have about 2 feet of clearance from the top of the tank! Will replacing the rod in this case require the tank to be completely emptied and uncoupled before it can be tilted enough to insert the new rod? Thanks.
I'm glad you found the video useful! Sounds like you have a tricky install / replacement ahead. It would be best to find a way to get the anode in without any modification to it or uninstalling the heater - but in your case, here is what I would likely try: Anode rods are not actually solid rods - they are a rod of the anode material with a steel cable running down through the entire length of it. In your shoes, I'd cut out a notch of the anode alloy about 1/2" wide about halfway down the length of the rod - i.e., get all the magnesium or aluminum (whatever your rod is made out of) off the steel cable there. You could use a hack saw to cut 2 slots about a half inch apart into the anode material all the way around until you get to the steel cable core, then use a pair of pliers to pull / rip out the little section of anode material. Then your rod would be able to flex/bend at the point where you have removed the anode material, and you should be able to get it into your tank. A word of caution: DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS TO CUT INTO ANODES. If you have a magnesium anode, it can ignite, and you won't be able to put it out. Cut it by hand with a hack saw, and there is little to no danger. I hope all this makes sense - essentially you are going to convert your solid anode into something like the flexible anode I showed in this video. Good luck!
@@AmplifyDIY Really appreciate that feedback, thanks very much! And I was paying attention to your warning of not using power tools around (Mg), so I'll make sure to not make that mistake (I vividly recall my senior chemistry class experiment mixing elemental (Na) with water and the resulting fireworks)!
We replaced the anode rod yesterday on our Rheem water heater. After digging out the factory foam and installing new rod we noticed two small wire in the foam in the anode hole. One was severed like I did it digging out the foam. Heater works fine though. You ever seen that before?
Hmm... could have just been something left over from manufacturing? But also may have been connected to old anode to make sure there was a conductive path to the anode... but this path is usually provided by the fact the rod is threaded into a fitting in the top of the tank. So.... 🤔
I wish that I watched your video earlier. after quite some attempts trying to get the hex cap anode rode out, I ended up the rounding up the hex top so much, so not much grips left anymore and anode rod still stuck in recess position to the top. Any idea to rescue? Thank you very muçh.
Oof. Without seeing the exact state of things with your situation it would be a little hard to make a good recommendation. If you really have completely rounded off the head of the anode though, your options may be quite limited. If you would like to email some pictures of what things look like to me (amplifydiy at gmail dot com) I'll be glad to offer whatever suggestions I can. Good luck!
interesting video. I have this brand. Connections were sweat in so pipes will need to be reworked to replace anode. Something to watch for if you hire a plumber.
@@AmplifyDIY no kidding, they left a threaded collar at the water heater junction nut everything else is sweated in so even if you unscrew the final fitting you cannot move the pipe out of the way. If you were nuts you could disconnect the gas line and exhaust venting and possibly wiggle the water heater so you could extract the anode rod. So I will simply cut the hot water copper pipe and add flexible or removeable fittings. Wondering though if it is worth the effort as the heater is 7 years old? Works and looks fine. I will probably replace the anode anyway. I'm interested to know what shape it is in. What do you think?
@@dennisdeleonard1912 In my opinion, 7 years is pretty young for a water heater. When they are properly maintained, you can expect 20+ years out of a typical heater. If you can make future maintenance easier by swapping some fittings, I'd definitely do that, as the cost in terms of parts and time is pretty minimal. Since you have never checked the anode yet, I'd go ahead and have one on hand as it's most likely completely used up by now. Good luck!
To loosen the pipe when only threads are visible use a lock nut jammed against a fitting like a coupling or elbow
This is fantastic advice. Unfortunately, when I was at my brother's it was a) late in the evening so no plumbing supply places were open and b) Lowes/HD (which were open) don't carry nuts that large. I'll see if I can convince him to let me give it another try, with your technique, and see if we can get it out. Thanks!
@@AmplifyDIY electrical fittings is npt threads too.
Mike Fitzpatrick Not sure what you mean by Lock nut... I want to get one before I even start as I have the same water heater...
@@ronstrode9124 You can use a EMT conduit lock nut off of a electrical box fitting. For example, here's a 1/2" fitting with a lock nut: www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-2-in-Electrical-Metallic-Tube-EMT-Set-Screw-Connectors-5-Pack-26270/100137321
@@ronstrode9124 Ideally, get two 3/4" NPT or FPT lock nuts (AKA: locknut)
www.homehardware.ca/en/34-galvanized-locknut/p/3243341
While I just recently found your videos, I find them very informative and helpful. Being a Union Pipefitter actively working in the trade for 24 years and the last 10 retired, nothing bothers me more (pet peeve), than to see someone use a wrench the wrong way. First example was using the adjustable pliers backwards. The proper way is to push the wrench so that that the jaws of the wrench flex into the pipe or fitting and the teeth are angled in such a manner that they bite into whatever you are trying to loosen. Second example the nut to the anode rod should always have 3 points of contact with the adjustable wrench as well. In doing so you will have a much tighter connection with the nut and it will be less likely to slip. Lastly, when using the pipe wrench, it’s extremely important to establish 3 points of contact with the rod as well. The three points being the two jaws and the throat of the wrench. This, like the adjustable pliers, will make a much tighter bite due to the pitch of the teeth on the jaws. It may not have been as important in this application but when using a pipe wrench on pipes, maintaining a three point grip will prevent the pipe wrench from egging the pipe. (taking pipe out of round) I was always taught to always use a wrench the correct way they are intended to be used.
I will agree with the others in saying your videos are very well done and you obviously are very talented at what you do. Also, you don’t have a lot of unnecessary words like umm or uhh being used. Great job!! Keep up the great, and informative videos!!
Hi David - I appreciate your constructive feedback. I'll be more careful in the future to demonstrate proper technique. In at least one instance, I purposely had to use a wrench backwards on a fitting as I was only using it to gently brace the fitting so I could apply torque to another part... but your points are all valid, and well explained. Thank you for taking the time to comment, and for watching some of my videos!
@@AmplifyDIYI would also like to add that, I think is best to use adjustable wrenches for nuts instead of players. You get a better fit and grip on the nut.
Great video though, I learned something new regarding the anode rods.
I've watched two of your videos now and I must say that I think yours are among the best, regardless of subject matter. You don't stumble through your explanations, which are clear and concise. And, you hit some of the minor , but important considerations which, if missed, can lead to significant problems. Thanks for doing a great job.
Glad you like them!
I switched to the Corro-Protec powered anode rods. They completely eliminate the sulfuric smell, (which is CAUSED by the magnesium rod), and last 20 years. No need to change the anode rod every year. They are short and easily fit a tank with limited overhead clearance. No need to keep trying chlorine or hydrogen peroxide contortions to get rid of the sulfur smell. I expect to get 20 years of service out of my water heater. We do have a whole house water filter ahead of a water softener so there is very little issue with sediment and calcium entering the water heaters. And they do make them for the Bradford White application.
I've heard very good things about powered anodes. Thanks for watching!
This is good advice, especially the note about why you shouldn’t drain the tank all the way & how to adjust the replacement rod so it is seated correctly. Also, it is very helpful that you had a leak because then viewers can see how to deal with it. Your systematic, careful, & well-researched instruction is incredibly helpful (especially as it is uncluttered by gratuitous graphics & sounds). Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback, and for watching!
This is the third water-heater video of yours that I've viewed. I like the pacing and sound quality of your videos. It's like you're standing near me and we're chatting while you describe what I need to do. It's also nice that the vids aren't jittery or shaky, are well lighted, and you zoom in for more detail when it is called for. All in all, these are great highly-usable instructional videos for DIY homeowners like me, which is why I have just subscribed!
Thank you for the feedback!
This man is one of the good vid/presenter artists I see on tutorial vids.
@@AmplifyDIY ~ You're welcome ! :-)
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I have a 40 gallon Rheem Performance Platinum water heater the landlord and I installed in 2015. I am on well water with hard mineral content; outside Boulder, Co. I run a gallon or two into a bucket once a month per the instructions that came with it. I am curious as to what the anode looks like and so look to how others go about changing one. Thanks for the help.
Totally agree Del!
This was not the kind of anode I have, but the process and explanation is the best tutorial I have ever seen on UA-cam. This guy could teach anything to anyone!
When using a pipe wrench, always go for a three-point grip. The throat of the jaw opening should contact the pipe you're gripping. The third point of contact works against the jaws' crushing force. That said, the comments on inserting a filler rod and using lock nuts are spot on.
Thanks for pointing this out, Gene! I should have been more careful and demonstrated better technique. Thanks for watching!
A note to the DIY'ers. When draining the tank using the garden hose, flush the tank. Leave the cold water on, open the drain, and flush out all the sediment and crap BEFORE you replace the anode rod. Shut the cold water off, open a hot water faucet to relieve the pressure, open the drain to drain off a couple gallons, amd start the anode replacement. Flush your tank once a year
Yup, I did a whole video on the best way to flush a tank as well: ua-cam.com/video/hs5N7HyDUWo/v-deo.html
Subscribed due to your video quality and thorough explanation of how to get 'er done without repeating yourself a million times as others seem to do in their videos. Great job and very well done, especially when you included the part regarding your brothers' heater issue and how you fixed it. Thank you for making this awesome video !
I’m a little late to the game. I have the very same Bradford white water heater sitting in my garage. Six years old. Lately been wanting to change the anode rod, and came across your video. First off, outstanding video! Well done kudos to you. I now have the confidence to do my own anode rod thanks to year well done and thought out video. Going to save me boat loads of money.😊😊👍
You can do it!
Awesome video, I replaced mine today on a Whirlpool Water Heater. I used a 1-1/16 socket and an impact driver to loosen it. A lot easier than your Bradford-White set up. Thanks again, and keep the videos coming, they’re excellent.
Not so easy on mine . The manufacturer epoxys the fitting in to keep owner from replacing. The difference in their 6 year warranty and 12 year warranty models is a heftier anode rod.
Great video, when replacing the drain valve, since the tank is empty, you can also access the heating element to replace it as well. I use a clear (So you can see the deposits) plastic hose a bit smaller than the element port size to vacuum out calcium from the bottom of the tank. I'm going to use the electronic anode rod that can last 2o years this week. It has a foot-long Titanium metal that doesn't get eaten up since the emitting electronic pulses do the work.
Great tutorial. I would had cleaned the working (top of the tank) area prior to starting to remove and replace things though.
Having seen this video, I am inspired to clean mine. 🙂
Love how detailed your videos are.
My hot water heater is 15 years old and we bought the house about a year ago. I've thought about changing the anode rod several times but always talk myself out of it since the expansion tank is positioned almost directly above it and I hated to mess with it. At this point I think I'll just wait till the water heater fails and make sure the next one is installed so I can change the anode rod periodically.
Just change it and reposition you thank at once, and keep changing it every 3 to 5 years.
My Bradford white is 15 years old as well. I would love to change the anode instead of the entire tank. What are the chances that this method would preserve the life of the tank and prevent it from busting?
So glad I don't have that type of rod. Love my separate one. That designs presents all sorts or issue. Good video
I have the exact one and I'm on my third one, First lasted one month before the warranty ended so it was covered the second one around the 6 year mark but since it was the replacement it was not covered. when this one goes I'm changing brands.
Excellent video for replacing a Bradford-White anode rod. I especially liked three tips: 1) How to correctly wrap Teflon tape on tapered pipe threads; 2) Using Teflon tape and pipe dope together (40+ years of experience says to use both on metal pipe threads (steel; stainless-steel; aluminum & brass) and only Teflon tape on plastic threads (but you can still use both on plastic threads as long as the pipe dope is manufactured for plastic threads (i.e., PVC; CPVC; Polypropylene; ABS; PTFE; PFA; & FEP); 3) To prevent "cross-threading," reverse the direction of the pipe fitting while slightly pushing down on the pipe fitting in/on the female hole until you hear/feel a "click," then reverse the direction and tighten. This is also a good practice for "self-threading" screws in wood or plastic after the threads are created in wood or plastic (when re-installing these types of screws to prevent creating new threads "in-between" the old threads in the wood/plastic threaded hole - which weakens the mounting pressure.
I had a specific situation last year where I could not get some npt threads going into the cold side of my water heater to stop leaking even though I was using plenty of Teflon tape. Then I applied both Teflon tape and pipe dope and it worked flawlessly and I have yet to have that leak again. Now when connecting things like water heaters I always use both, there’s no harm in it:)
Tommy TMT Teflon tape is a thread lubricant, not a sealer.
Great, informative video! I have a Bradford White also and would have bought the generic type of anode rod. Thanks for pointing that out.
Had the same situation with the same Bradford White, had to remove the top of the heater, removed some foam insulation and the nipple without threads will be exposed for ~1 inch, should be enough to grab it with an adjustable wrench and of course don't forget WD40:)
Steps I took to change the rod in my 10-15 years old water heater (after I removed the rod, there was nothing left, so, assume it was never changed):
1. Remove the top of the heater (5-6 screws)
2. Remove some foam/insulation and expose the whole nipple.
3. Apply lots and lots of WD40 and wait for ~30 mins.
4. Try to grab with an adjustable wrench and it should be good to go.
5. When you're going to remove the old rod, pay attention to the plastic white adapter that is attached to the nipple (the one that has a heat trap inside) - chances are it's going to break, so, slooooowly remove the rod using pliers, otherwise, you're risking to drop the remainings of the rod into the tank.
6. Flush the tank multiple times (I recommend to change the standard garden hose valve that comes with the heater to the 3/4'' ball valve - you will see the difference).
7. Enjoy the water heater for another 5-6 years. Then replace the rod again. The heater will last you decades ahead for $25-50 every 5-6 years.
Great video. I also replace the rubber gasket in the flexible water supply line, especially if they are old.
Good tip. Thanks!
Also at the end, don't forget to adjust the thermostat back to the desired temperature! This is the most detailed, careful video I've seen! Most videos don't even bother mentioning how Bradford White heaters have the anode in a different place! Subscribed.
Great video. I just removed my anode rod yesterday and sanded down all the calcium/lime that was on it. It was still in very good shape structurally . I was surprised at the design of your rod. I was under the impression that the rod metal had to be in contact with the tank metal in order for the sacrificial process to work. I know that's the case with a motor boat engine. Your rod seems to be isolated with the plastic collar which would not allow for the contact of the two metals. So I'm a little perplexed as to why they designed it that way. Personally I don't like the way yours is designed and integrated into the output line. To me having a separate anode hole and threaded section is much more straightforward and nicer. Thanks for sharing
You are 100% correct that the anode has to be connected with a conductive path to the steel of the tank. In the case of my anode shown in the video, it does it via the threads that are screwed into the tank itself. It's probably not obvious just by looking at the end of the anode, but I believe there is a small electrical conductor that connects the threads of the fitting to the anode at the bottom of the plastic valve. In fact, I just ran out and used a multi-meter to perform a continuity test on the old anode I pulled out of the heater in this video, and sure enough: the threads do have a conductive path to the anode rod.
But I also really dislike how this has been integrated into the output line.
AmplifyDIY - thanks for the confirmation reply. I am replacing my neighbors anode tomorrow. It is at least 12 yrs old so I am not expecting much to be there. We flushed about 30 gallons out and had quite a bit of fine rust particles and small sediment particles. Not huge at all but I’m beginning to wonder whether the tank has been compromised due to never changing anode and hence more of the rusty looking particles. There’s not a lot of room either so I’m going with the four piece flex magnesium rod
The fine rust particles could be from the anode, not necessarily the tank itself. Good luck with it!
That little core wire you observed is the connection. It runs through the plastic part somehow to connect with the fitting. If the anode were completely depleted, that wire would remain. The first part to corrode on that anode you removed was right at the top. Eventually, that would have corroded all the way through. Without the core wire there, the rest of the rod would have fallen to the bottom of the tank. This also explains that aluminum one you showed that was designed to bend: Without the core wire, the sections would soon corrode through at the thinned sections.
Right. That core wire is (I believe) a braided steel cable, that acts as both a conductor and structural component, just as you describe. Thanks for watching!
Perfect, I have a Bradford White and I was wondering where the heck the anode rod was hidden, thanks!
Very welcome!
Thank you so much for showing the hiccups you encountered, most videos edit them out, I ended up learning more from those.
Years ago we had a stainless steel water heater it was still working fine at 30 years old. Works on ships the sacrificial anode. Fight current of water, wait for ebbtide.
I also have a Bradford White heater - You just saved me from a bunch of headaches! Thanks :)
You are welcome!
This is now my second video that I have watched, that will yield immediate rewards. Again I mention the super high quality, audio, video and your lighting, if you notice you don't see the lighting reflected in his glasses which is not easy to do. The VIDEO FLOW is truly amazing, as others have already mentioned in the below comments. The editing is really good as well, and the music tracks running are there but just barely noticeable but needed. Needless to say that your voice and diction is spot on, not filled with tons of word fillers like many videos contains on YT. I will venture to say that perhaps you are a Virgo, seeking perfections in your creations. Hats off to your great work and thank you for informing us about things that we can do on our own safely while saving a chunk of money. I am now a subscriber
You are very kind. Thank you!
Followed this video, luckily mine was stuck up enough where I could grab under the threads like yours and not your brother's. Thanks so much for this, mine was corroded pretty bad, basically all the way down with crumbles of rusty metal on the center rod. I had quite a time getting it out given all the corrosion on the threaded area. I also used some cheap China made pipe wrenches that kept opening up on me while twisting it out...going to invest in some better ones. Thanks again!
Glad you got it done. Great job!
I just scanned all the comments below.. and I won't bother with all the Praising I was about to Offer. EVERYBODY has said everything I would have said!.;.. in other words, YOU DA MAN !!! great job!!
Thanks, Philip!
I love in an area where water chemistry and a water softener results in the anode rod dissolving in two years. Best to check regularly or you could be buying a new water heater.
Only 15.5K subscribers???? What a sin! I'm on board, great videos. Thank for helping me fix up my house!
So glad it was helpful!
I use to install water heaters and i live in Canada. I think the chimney is called a DRAFT HOOD since this type of water heater is atmospheric ;since there was NOT a power vent on top the water heater. Atmospheric relies on only air from inside the room (Area) to mix with the natural gas to heat the water in the water heater. Power vent appliance (water heater) there is different manufacturers: Rheem, Rinnai etc., power vent exhausts the exhaust products then the electronic circuit board by timers sends messages to the sail switches to the electric /electronic circuits to make enough electricity for the safety to allow the main burner to the water heater to come on. I enjoyed the video though keep up the good work.
My water heater is 7 years old and I haven’t checked the anode rod specifically because there’s only about 18” of space above it. I didn’t even know that three section type of flexible anode existed. Thanks for the informative video. Now I don’t have an excuse to not check it! Lol
This is great in theory, but I talked to a couple veteran plumbers and they said do not fix it till it's broken. Doing any work or even draining your water heater can greatly shorten its life. it can actually lasts 50 to 70 years if you don't do anything to it. but you will make more work for yourself because you could actually break the water heater by repairing it. Thank you kind sir for your all your hard hard work it is educational.
Hi M P - I'm afraid the plumbers you spoke with are grossly misinformed. Heaters absolutely do require maintenance, and simply doing nothing drastically shortens their useful life. Don't take my word for it though, search google for something like "should I replace the anode in my water heater" and see what you find. I think you'll be surprised. Thanks for watching!
“50 to 70 years”….. good luck with that. Fantasy.
My water heater has a recessed anode, so I used a Bauer impact wrench (wired - has much more torque). You must use a 6 point inpact socket (27mm) to have this work! regular 12 point sockets will distort and round the head of the anode. After I got that impact socket, the anode came right out and was completely shot, so I'm glad I did this work
Nice work!
Thanks for the video. I just replaced the anode rod on my Bradford white water heater. problems everywhere! When I disconnected the hot water outlet, a lot of water went everywhere, even though I opened my hot water faucets, and drained the water heater somewhat. The insulation on the top of my water heater has been moist for days now, not sure how to dry it.
The Copper to CPVC hot water outlet pipe broke its seal. Had to wait till the next morning to get to Home depot. they had a sharkbite water heater kit. Surprisingly, it was exactly what I needed. I didnt have to extend any cpvc. Plus it has a valve built in, so next time I wont have tons of water draining back.
Oof! Sounds like yours was an adventure. Great job getting it taken care of!
I didn’t see you put pipe tape on the rod and hose connection. Other wise best video I have seen. Very detail. Thanks s bunch.👍
Hi obtugtxivtub - The connection between the flex pipe and the top of the anode where I did *not* use tape specifically does not need it. That fitting employs a small rubber washer inside the flex pipe side (much like a garden hose) to make the connection watertight. Teflon tape and/or pipe dope is not needed there. I didn't mention it in the video because of the wide variety of other ways that heaters can be connected, and I didn't want to confuse anyone who may not have the same sort of connections. Thanks for watching!
As a new home owner I am addicted to your well created instructionals. Thank you so much, you are a life (and wallet) saver!
Wow, thank you, Alanalso!
❤
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you for sharing it with us!
About 13min in has an anode with life left he said could be put back in for a few more years left, and at 14:50 has a heat trap "valve" piece he also ordered with the magnesium anode, about $4-5 replacement. He hacked by hand the replacement magnesium rod (it can burn if it gets too hot) to match the length of the original anode rod to not damage his tank just in case when putting in the replacement that it's not too long as shown when ordered online. Has to add joint compound and Teflon tape (don't put the tape on backwards). Segmented anodes are a possibility depending on the room available above the tank. No crooked anodes, the water fights you. Don't damage the threads, pipe wrench needed. Love the video, didn't know anodes existed until today, sorry was taking notes or cliff notes rather to stay focused while my cat purrs on me and tries to get my attention. Last part of this video makes me think a pro might be having to do this switch, how often does an anode have life? Oh thanks on the Harbor freight $8 info on the pipe wrench.
Hi Jillio - great notes! You asked about anode lifespans: this varies a LOT based on a bunch of factors: do you have a water softener? How hard is your water? What specific minerals are dissolved in your water supply? How much hot water do you use in a year? - the list of variables goes on and on - but here is the general rule of thumb: Start checking your anode 3 years after it was first installed. If it still has most of it's mass, put it back in for another year. Once it looks to be all used up (any part of the steel core that runs the length of it is visible) it's time to replace it. In my area, they last around 5-7 years, depending on all the variables mentioned above. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for this detailed video. I had a leaking hot water outlet pipe that I needed to replace, so I figured I'd go ahead and replace the anode while I was at it. I had the same problem your brother had, but used the locknut trick some folks describe in the comments and was able to get it out. One thing I guess I was unprepared for was the amount of residual water left in the outlet piping. I know that wasn't really the focus of this video, but if I had to do it again I would be ready with a cap or plug to plug off the end while replacing the anode.
Great tip about the residual water. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing this! Really appreciate your detailed demonstration.
Good job especially demonstrating what can and will go wrong.
Thank you!
It’s obvious from what I’ve experienced that neither the manufacturers nor the plumbing supply shops are particularly interested in people doing this for the simple reason that it adds years of continued service to the hot water heater. One plumbing supply shop said that I should just replace a 6yo hot water Heater instead of replacing the anode. That would run me $1800 in NYC.
Agreed.
Notice how they grooved the fitting above the lower thread? It will bust off flush with the top of the tank unless you tighten it juust right or have no rust in the thread when loosening.
My former water heater was electric but was installed in 1999. Sold my house with it inside in 2017, still kicking. Changed the anode rod every 2 years.
They are actually COLD water heaters. If the water was already HOT, you wouldn't have to heat it.
6 years is a little young but there are so many things that can go wrong with a heater you don’t want to start being nickel and dimmed to death. When you have one problem, you might start having more, each of which can be fixed but at a price...that’s where I make easy money. I’m a master and been doing this for years. If YOU fix it then it’s worth fixing but if you have to keep paying a plumber, a lot of times a new one would be better. Statistical life span of a water heater is 8 to 12 years.
I just found out the anode rod needs to make metal to metal contact on the threads when replacing! You can't use too much dope/tape or it will not make contact.
You can always check for a good connection with a basic multi-tester’s continuity testing function. Great tip! 👍🏼
Great video. Covered everything at a nice pace.
Thank you for watching!
If your old rod is still in good shape take a wire brush and clean of the nasty stuff and re-use it. Also when using thread tape it is a good idea to leave a couple threads bare so you can start it easier when re-installing your rod.
2 excellent suggestions. Thanks!
That my friend is a good fucking Idea, why I didnt think of that before. 🤦♂️
Awesome suggestions, REALLY Helpful ! Thank You !
Excellent advice, quite a few great tips! Thank you for assisting others saving ton of money.
Glad it was helpful, James!
Love your channel. It will grow for sure. I appreciate how you get camera right in to the work at hand.
Exercise care using pipe wrench. Some anode rods assembled from the factory are so tight that we tend to use cheater bar for leverage. However, there is a danger that the anode rod pipe itself will collapse/crack and break right at the threading. That will be a bad day indeed. I use a socket wrench with the correct size inserted into the opening to prevent these mishaps.
Great tips, thank you!
Rheam WH has grey plastic collar cup in anode port. Mine leaks underneath this cap and out onto WH surface. Can this plastic collar be plucked out and replaced? Would this stop leak? The anode is new and tight with pipe dope and teflon tape in the right direction but still leaks under flange, not around the bolt.
Its a very pleasant presentation with a calm assuring voice, thanks for your time, keep them coming.
Excellent instructions. Detailed and easy to understand!
After doing mine I can attest to using an impact wrench. I messed around with the cheater/breaker bar and saw others using an impact. Breaks that seat and use your ratchet to finish and use the ratch to reinstall. Impacts are your friend here
Excellent video! I am 72 and never understood why a water heater could suddenly spring a leak because it was 10 years old. Plumbers never tell you to replace anode bars every 3 years or drain the fixture every 6 months either. If we all did this, our water heaters might last for 20 years due to lack of corrosion…😂😡
Finally did this. Thank goodness you had a Bradford White also. Thanks!
Glad to help!
These last about 1 year in Phoenix. Amazon is a great place to get a replacement.
Water softeners accelerate the degradation of the anode, I change mine every 1 1/2 years.
Put a 5/8" Shoulder Bolt in the Nipple to prevent collapse, when removing the Anode Rod.
Well done tutorial, covered all the bases.
Thanks for your video -- just what I needed! Why do you not put teflon tape on the joint from the top of the anode to the house hot water pipe?
Great question, David! That fitting already has a rubber gasket inside the house side of the connection that makes a great seal. Teflon tape there would be superfluous. I won’t hurt anything, but there is no reason to have it there at all.
Probably won’t be attempting this, because I recently installed a new water heater myself. But it’s good to know how to if I do at some point. Btw it was driving me mad that you didn’t clean the top the water heater before you started 😉
Heh. I like to leave things as they actually are, because the chances are that the top of everyone's heater is pretty dirty... having said that, I should have started with it still dirty (and shown it that way) then mentioned it would be a great time to clean it off and do so quickly in the video. Then the rest of the shots would be of a nice, clean heater top. I'll keep this in mind for future projects. Thanks for watching!
19:41 - This thread starting technique will work on _any_ thread type: NPT pipe, PVC adapter, machine threads, sheet metal threads, wood screw threads, Romex clamp locknut threads, nylon threads, etc. It even works on the fine threads of a Nikon camera lens adapter and the plastic cap of your milk jug! This is definitely a time saver and you’ll never “cross thread” again!
Why does Bradford White have to be so ... special? Their anodes can be a real pain in the neck to replace.
They want you to buy a new tank not an anode.
Yeah; did you notice the groove above the lower thread? It's there to weaken the fitting so it will break off flush with the top of the tank in the event of over-tightening or rust seizing the thread the least little bit when removing the thing. B*st*rds.
First great video just like all your other videos and i just have two questions 1. Why didn't you put thread sealant on the side connected to the house is that not recommended? 2. Question is what to do if i don't have flexible pipes like you have mine seemed to be just brass pipes on cold and hot side ( i also have the pleasure of owning a Bradford ) so what should i do and is there a ano rod on the cold water pipe also ?
@@By_Any_Means_Necessary 1) If the fittings above the nipples have rubber washers, then thread sealant is not required. Do not over tighten, that would damage the washer(s).
2) If you don't have flex pipes, the installer was an a-hole, lots of extra work required.
3) There's usually no anode rod below the cold inlet.
My water heater lasted 30 years. Didn’t flush it or replace the anode. Sometimes if it ain’t broke don’t fix it as you could cause more problems. Since the old anode was still good just leave it as is.
Very clear instructions. Thanks.
You are welcome!
Great video, just finished mine. I would use smaller channel locks or something else to put the new anode rod in. I had the same size channel locks and they would have hit or tore up the new anode threads so I went with a smaller tool. Otherwise awesome video
Great tip, and thanks for watching!
Thank you so much my friend. you are a very good instructor !
You are welcome, Jacob!
Great learning video!! You’re a great teacher!! Thank you
Fantastic video, very professional. Great tips, esp about cutting magnesium! Going to drain flush and replace anode on mine soon, tho mine is a “standard” anode on its own bolt. But was buried under insulation I had to cut out first (Raheem brand).
Glad it was helpful!
Rheem?
Great video, they also make a flexible anode rod that bends in segments if there's not enough room. I didn't hear you mention that.
4:45 - I go over all the details on them. Thanks for making sure it was mentioned, and thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY
Ah dang my bad, yeah good video i learned something in yours!
Very thorough and clear, thank you!
@17:30 I've been so annoyed in other videos when they mention to "make sure you put the teflon on the right direction", then they do it backward. Thanks for pointing it out specifically.
One of my pet peeves as well, Steve. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Audio was also great, and you took your time explaining everything. Great!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
That manufacturer was in a foul mood when he designed that thing. Brutal.
Yeah and I just realized I have one! ugh.
Fantastic video! Thanks for sharing. 👍 😊
Thank you! Cheers!
Beautifully produced video. Clear and concise. One point, what does the heat trap do?
Hi Karl - thank you for the kind words! The heat trap helps reduce radiant heat loss out the hot outlet when the hot water is not flowing. Great question, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for letting me know I do not want a Bradford White water heater.
Ours is old enough I am scared to mess with it.
Will run it till it leaks and then replace it with a tankless.
I do need to change the rod in my father's heater.
It is at least 5 years old.
Yeah, I'm not a huge fan of Bradford White's design with having the anode integrated on the output side. Other than that, the heater seems to be just fine. Thanks for watching!
You’re a good teacher!
Thank you for watching!
Nice video! I also have a Bradford White water heater, and was wondering where the anode was.
You might consider updating your video to deal with the fact that the rubber seals in the corrugated hot water heater supply line, especially on the hot water side, will become hardened and will often crack or just won't seal. They are replaceable, so you don't need to replace the corrugated supply line if they won't seal. I have included the part number and some links to the Danco version of them at the end of this comment.
The proper replacements are not flat rubber washers -- they are actually beveled, with the outside edge being thicker than the inside. This is done to help insure that when they are tightened they properly seal, and to insure the connection is electrically insulated, forming what is called a "dielectric" connection (explanation below).
These corrugated supply lines are intended to be dielectric, which means they electrically isolate the metal in the water heater from the house plumbing. This is necessary to prevent galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar metals in the water heater and the metals in your plumbing from occurring.
Caution -- don't try and use a flat washer from a garden hose. While it may work for a while, it will fail -- especially on the hot water side where the seal takes a beating from the heat. The flat washer also may not properly electrically isolate the fitting.
It's a bit of a pain to remove the old washer, because it usually has hardened up, but it can be done with some patience and either a pick, or a small flat bladed screw driver. Here are some tips:
1. Make sure you remove all of the old seal before pushing the replacement into place.
2. I recommend rinsing or blowing out the supply line to get rid of any bits that may have fallen inside during the removal -- you don't want those bits in your plumbing.
3. I recommend replacing the washers in both ends of the supply tube -- since you will have to remove the supply tube to rinse or blow it out anyway.
4. Make sure to work the replacement in so that it is fully seated against the bottom of the fitting all the way around, (and pull up on the threaded nut to make sure the rubber seal really is pushed all the way down inside). Don't use anything sharp to push the new sealing washer into place. You don't want to cut or gouge it. It's okay to use something dull if you need to -- just be careful.
The Danco part number for the proper washer/seal is 65884B, and they sell for around $1.25-$1.40 each in most hardware stores and plumbing supply places.
Here are two links to the washers (the DoitBest link shows a picture of the actual beveled washer, the AceHardware link just shows a picture of the bag):
www.doitbest.com/shop/plumbing-supplies/pipe-fittings/sewer-and-drain-fittings/rubber-sewer-and-drain-washer-replacement/danco-1-in-water-supply-line-washer-replacement?SKU=492981
www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/faucet-and-faucet-repair/plumbing-washers/4023925
(Note the title at the DoitBest site is a bit misleading -- they call it a 1 inch washer, but it is intended to be used in a standard 3/4 inch corrugated water heater supply line.
For some reason, Amazon is now charging $4.50 each for these Danco sealing washers (they used to sell them for 96 cents each a year ago), so it is much cheaper to get them from Ace Hardware or DoitBest hardware (I couldn't find them on the TrueValue site). Both of these national hardware chains will ship them to your local store for free so you can avoid any shipping charges by picking them up there.
The big box stores don't seem to sell these sealing washers anymore -- instead they want to sell you a replacement supply tube for $20-$40.
Using Teflon tape can cause electrical insulation between the anode rod and the body of the tank. The anode rod must be electrically connected to the tank which forms the cathode in order for the anode rod to properly function. It was not said how long the Anode rod that was removed was in service, it looked like it was in a short time, or it was not functioning properly due to electrical isolation. Otherwise, a great presentation!
Hi Roland - When I filmed this video, the heater was a little less than 3 years old. So the amount of decay was expected. You bring up a good point about making sure there is good conductivity between the anode and the tank, though. Usually the threads have no problem cutting through the teflon tape and pipe dope to make a good connection, but it's a good idea to check with a multitester to make sure there is continuity after replacing an anode. Great tip, and thanks for watching!
You explain so nicely. Cool
Thank you!
Nice video, Since the anode rod needs a current flow between the steel tank and the rod it would probably be best not to use Teflon tape insulating the threads. The steel threads may cut through the tape anyway but why not just use a Teflon pipe dope instead then the threads will be in direct contact for sure.
You could use a multimeter to make sure the rod is connected to the steel tank. Just beep out the top of the rod to hot or cold pipe leaving the tank. Set your multimeter to ohms & it should measure zero.
Kudos to the original installers. I suspect the reason the anode is cut short is because they removed the anode before installing the water heater. After installing the heater, they found the anode was too long to install (thus too long to remove) and cut it to fit. OTOH, their foresight prevented us learning how to keep metal dust from falling into the water heater while hacksawing an anode being held by vise-grips,..
I suspect the original anode was installed at the factory, not by the plumber who installed the heater. As for metal flakes that may make their way into the tank: that's why there's a drain valve and flushing procedure for all water heaters - to flush out any junk that makes its way into your heater. Thanks for watching!
A "Three Corner Bite" with the pipe wrench so you don"t collapse the pipe.
We recently bought a 5-year-old house that I wasn't sure if the water heater had ever been drained. After watching your very helpful video on draining I noticed a clear jelly-like substance being flushed out after agitating and draining my own tank. I flushed maybe 15 times because this jelly kept coming out. I believe this is a by-product of the anode deteriorating??? Also, is it a good idea to replace the anode even though the tank is 5 years old. I'm trying to make this water heater last a while. Thank you for your very detailed videos and help.
Glad to hear you found my video useful, and that you were able to follow the process to drain your own tank! Yes, the junk is likely a result of the reactions that occur when your anode is broken down. 5 years is plenty old enough to warrant at least checking the anode, if not replacing it. I'll bet there is not much left!
Thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY I'll pull the anode and have a new one on hand after the weekend. Thanks again for your content, and fast reply!
I'd love to hear how it goes... good luck!
Your the only person I ever seen use Teflon tape with pipe dope, scratch the teflon, as the threads need to make contact with the female end, using teflon and dope will make the anode less effective.
Hi Landon - lots of people use both. As long as you tighten the fitting properly, plenty of surface are of the threads will cut through the teflon tape and make a good conduction path for the anode to work properly. Thanks for watching!
I had ABSOLUTELY NO LUCK getting the anode rod out of my 6 year old Rheem heater. Didn't even try a breaker bar, but went straight to the impact driver: Tried an air wrench, a hand/hammer powered impact wrench, and even borrowed a 20V electric wrench. Nothing would budge it. I did try a long breaker bar but it immediately started to turn the whole water heater. Gave up and am returning the anode rod!
Oof. It drives me nuts that manufacturers seem to want to install these with something north of 250 lb ft of torque.
If I inspect the anode rod while doing my annual flush and fill of my hot water tank, my understanding is it's a good idea to pull out the anode after a couple of gallons have drained (so I still have the benefit of the weight of the water in the tank to help me while I'm loosening the anode). Would it be okay, though, to replace the anode, if necessary, when the tank is empty (since the water current presents a challenge in returning the anode to the tank)?
Yes, you can definitely do it this way, with one caveat: You do want to make sure that the new anode is in tightly, or it may leak. So, after you have threaded it into an empty tank to be at least snug, fill the tank back up and do a final tightening on the anode to make sure it is tight enough. Good luck!
Very informative, thanks. Why order a new heat trap though? Can't the old one be reused? It isn't metallic so it won't corrode. And yes, both Lowes and HomeDepot carry Eastman anode rods which include suitable replacements for Bradford White.
The old one can be used, but it gets brittle over time. It was incredibly cheap, and figured a new one would last longer. Thanks for watching!
Wiping with a paper towel I find it is better to spot water leaks after you are done.
...so just when I find a video that shows me how easy it is to replace the rod I realize whoever installed my heater used copper pipes and solder so I can't remove the fittings. Womderfulll!!!! the copper ends and is clamped to a PVC pipe. Now I'll have to find a video that shows me how to fix this problem.
Oof. Good luck!
Very instructional video and very well narrated and demonstrated. Thank you! I have a double vented Bradford White gas powered water tank and I ordered the replacement anode rods before realizing that I only have about 2 feet of clearance from the top of the tank! Will replacing the rod in this case require the tank to be completely emptied and uncoupled before it can be tilted enough to insert the new rod? Thanks.
I'm glad you found the video useful! Sounds like you have a tricky install / replacement ahead. It would be best to find a way to get the anode in without any modification to it or uninstalling the heater - but in your case, here is what I would likely try:
Anode rods are not actually solid rods - they are a rod of the anode material with a steel cable running down through the entire length of it. In your shoes, I'd cut out a notch of the anode alloy about 1/2" wide about halfway down the length of the rod - i.e., get all the magnesium or aluminum (whatever your rod is made out of) off the steel cable there. You could use a hack saw to cut 2 slots about a half inch apart into the anode material all the way around until you get to the steel cable core, then use a pair of pliers to pull / rip out the little section of anode material. Then your rod would be able to flex/bend at the point where you have removed the anode material, and you should be able to get it into your tank.
A word of caution: DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS TO CUT INTO ANODES. If you have a magnesium anode, it can ignite, and you won't be able to put it out. Cut it by hand with a hack saw, and there is little to no danger.
I hope all this makes sense - essentially you are going to convert your solid anode into something like the flexible anode I showed in this video.
Good luck!
@@AmplifyDIY Really appreciate that feedback, thanks very much! And I was paying attention to your warning of not using power tools around (Mg), so I'll make sure to not make that mistake (I vividly recall my senior chemistry class experiment mixing elemental (Na) with water and the resulting fireworks)!
Excellent video - thank you.
We replaced the anode rod yesterday on our Rheem water heater. After digging out the factory foam and installing new rod we noticed two small wire in the foam in the anode hole. One was severed like I did it digging out the foam. Heater works fine though. You ever seen that before?
Hmm... could have just been something left over from manufacturing? But also may have been connected to old anode to make sure there was a conductive path to the anode... but this path is usually provided by the fact the rod is threaded into a fitting in the top of the tank. So.... 🤔
Thanks for the great video! I’m impressed that you
Thanks for watching, Gyan!
Great video, do you have a video on replacing the safety pressure valve??
Hi Raymond - as a matter of fact, I do have one on T&P valves: ua-cam.com/video/e5H1i1cypxA/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching!
I wish that I watched your video earlier. after quite some attempts trying to get the hex cap anode rode out, I ended up the rounding up the hex top so much, so not much grips left anymore and anode rod still stuck in recess position to the top. Any idea to rescue? Thank you very muçh.
Oof. Without seeing the exact state of things with your situation it would be a little hard to make a good recommendation. If you really have completely rounded off the head of the anode though, your options may be quite limited. If you would like to email some pictures of what things look like to me (amplifydiy at gmail dot com) I'll be glad to offer whatever suggestions I can. Good luck!
Good job. The only thing you didn't do was clean off the top of the tank.
great layout.. great quality.. ty vm
Thank you too!
interesting video. I have this brand. Connections were sweat in so pipes will need to be reworked to replace anode. Something to watch for if you hire a plumber.
All nipples should be threaded - did they thread on a fitting then sweat copper directly to that? How odd. Good luck!
@@AmplifyDIY no kidding, they left a threaded collar at the water heater junction nut everything else is sweated in so even if you unscrew the final fitting you cannot move the pipe out of the way. If you were nuts you could disconnect the gas line and exhaust venting and possibly wiggle the water heater so you could extract the anode rod. So I will simply cut the hot water copper pipe and add flexible or removeable fittings. Wondering though if it is worth the effort as the heater is 7 years old? Works and looks fine. I will probably replace the anode anyway. I'm interested to know what shape it is in. What do you think?
@@dennisdeleonard1912 In my opinion, 7 years is pretty young for a water heater. When they are properly maintained, you can expect 20+ years out of a typical heater. If you can make future maintenance easier by swapping some fittings, I'd definitely do that, as the cost in terms of parts and time is pretty minimal. Since you have never checked the anode yet, I'd go ahead and have one on hand as it's most likely completely used up by now. Good luck!
@@AmplifyDIY thanks. Will update when completed
@@AmplifyDIY replacement went well. Rod was really in poor shape.! Appreciate all the great advice and encouragement!