How To Replace Water Heater Anode (Step By Step)
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Do you need to know how to replace your water heater anode? Do you have a Bradford White water heater and need to replace the sacrificial anode rod? These heaters are set up differently than most, and replacing the anode is different than most heaters. It's a very simple job, and this video covers detailed instructions on exactly how to replace your water heater anode rod.
#WaterHeaterAnode #SacrificialAnode #BradfordWhite
I picked up my anode from www.supplyhous... (not sponsored, but they have great pricing and accurate listings)
Here is the pipe joint compound (pipe dope) that I prefer (affiliate link): amzn.to/3mBrA71
You can help me with future projects!
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To loosen the pipe when only threads are visible use a lock nut jammed against a fitting like a coupling or elbow
This is fantastic advice. Unfortunately, when I was at my brother's it was a) late in the evening so no plumbing supply places were open and b) Lowes/HD (which were open) don't carry nuts that large. I'll see if I can convince him to let me give it another try, with your technique, and see if we can get it out. Thanks!
@@AmplifyDIY electrical fittings is npt threads too.
Mike Fitzpatrick Not sure what you mean by Lock nut... I want to get one before I even start as I have the same water heater...
@@ronstrode9124 You can use a EMT conduit lock nut off of a electrical box fitting. For example, here's a 1/2" fitting with a lock nut: www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-2-in-Electrical-Metallic-Tube-EMT-Set-Screw-Connectors-5-Pack-26270/100137321
@@ronstrode9124 Ideally, get two 3/4" NPT or FPT lock nuts (AKA: locknut)
www.homehardware.ca/en/34-galvanized-locknut/p/3243341
I've watched two of your videos now and I must say that I think yours are among the best, regardless of subject matter. You don't stumble through your explanations, which are clear and concise. And, you hit some of the minor , but important considerations which, if missed, can lead to significant problems. Thanks for doing a great job.
Glad you like them!
This is the third water-heater video of yours that I've viewed. I like the pacing and sound quality of your videos. It's like you're standing near me and we're chatting while you describe what I need to do. It's also nice that the vids aren't jittery or shaky, are well lighted, and you zoom in for more detail when it is called for. All in all, these are great highly-usable instructional videos for DIY homeowners like me, which is why I have just subscribed!
Thank you for the feedback!
This man is one of the good vid/presenter artists I see on tutorial vids.
@@AmplifyDIY ~ You're welcome ! :-)
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I have a 40 gallon Rheem Performance Platinum water heater the landlord and I installed in 2015. I am on well water with hard mineral content; outside Boulder, Co. I run a gallon or two into a bucket once a month per the instructions that came with it. I am curious as to what the anode looks like and so look to how others go about changing one. Thanks for the help.
Totally agree Del!
This is good advice, especially the note about why you shouldn’t drain the tank all the way & how to adjust the replacement rod so it is seated correctly. Also, it is very helpful that you had a leak because then viewers can see how to deal with it. Your systematic, careful, & well-researched instruction is incredibly helpful (especially as it is uncluttered by gratuitous graphics & sounds). Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback, and for watching!
This was not the kind of anode I have, but the process and explanation is the best tutorial I have ever seen on UA-cam. This guy could teach anything to anyone!
When using a pipe wrench, always go for a three-point grip. The throat of the jaw opening should contact the pipe you're gripping. The third point of contact works against the jaws' crushing force. That said, the comments on inserting a filler rod and using lock nuts are spot on.
Thanks for pointing this out, Gene! I should have been more careful and demonstrated better technique. Thanks for watching!
This is now my second video that I have watched, that will yield immediate rewards. Again I mention the super high quality, audio, video and your lighting, if you notice you don't see the lighting reflected in his glasses which is not easy to do. The VIDEO FLOW is truly amazing, as others have already mentioned in the below comments. The editing is really good as well, and the music tracks running are there but just barely noticeable but needed. Needless to say that your voice and diction is spot on, not filled with tons of word fillers like many videos contains on YT. I will venture to say that perhaps you are a Virgo, seeking perfections in your creations. Hats off to your great work and thank you for informing us about things that we can do on our own safely while saving a chunk of money. I am now a subscriber
You are very kind. Thank you!
Excellent video for replacing a Bradford-White anode rod. I especially liked three tips: 1) How to correctly wrap Teflon tape on tapered pipe threads; 2) Using Teflon tape and pipe dope together (40+ years of experience says to use both on metal pipe threads (steel; stainless-steel; aluminum & brass) and only Teflon tape on plastic threads (but you can still use both on plastic threads as long as the pipe dope is manufactured for plastic threads (i.e., PVC; CPVC; Polypropylene; ABS; PTFE; PFA; & FEP); 3) To prevent "cross-threading," reverse the direction of the pipe fitting while slightly pushing down on the pipe fitting in/on the female hole until you hear/feel a "click," then reverse the direction and tighten. This is also a good practice for "self-threading" screws in wood or plastic after the threads are created in wood or plastic (when re-installing these types of screws to prevent creating new threads "in-between" the old threads in the wood/plastic threaded hole - which weakens the mounting pressure.
Great video, when replacing the drain valve, since the tank is empty, you can also access the heating element to replace it as well. I use a clear (So you can see the deposits) plastic hose a bit smaller than the element port size to vacuum out calcium from the bottom of the tank. I'm going to use the electronic anode rod that can last 2o years this week. It has a foot-long Titanium metal that doesn't get eaten up since the emitting electronic pulses do the work.
I also have a Bradford White heater - You just saved me from a bunch of headaches! Thanks :)
You are welcome!
Love how detailed your videos are.
My hot water heater is 15 years old and we bought the house about a year ago. I've thought about changing the anode rod several times but always talk myself out of it since the expansion tank is positioned almost directly above it and I hated to mess with it. At this point I think I'll just wait till the water heater fails and make sure the next one is installed so I can change the anode rod periodically.
Just change it and reposition you thank at once, and keep changing it every 3 to 5 years.
My Bradford white is 15 years old as well. I would love to change the anode instead of the entire tank. What are the chances that this method would preserve the life of the tank and prevent it from busting?
I’m a little late to the game. I have the very same Bradford white water heater sitting in my garage. Six years old. Lately been wanting to change the anode rod, and came across your video. First off, outstanding video! Well done kudos to you. I now have the confidence to do my own anode rod thanks to year well done and thought out video. Going to save me boat loads of money.😊😊👍
You can do it!
My water heater is 7 years old and I haven’t checked the anode rod specifically because there’s only about 18” of space above it. I didn’t even know that three section type of flexible anode existed. Thanks for the informative video. Now I don’t have an excuse to not check it! Lol
I just scanned all the comments below.. and I won't bother with all the Praising I was about to Offer. EVERYBODY has said everything I would have said!.;.. in other words, YOU DA MAN !!! great job!!
Thanks, Philip!
Years ago we had a stainless steel water heater it was still working fine at 30 years old. Works on ships the sacrificial anode. Fight current of water, wait for ebbtide.
I didn’t see you put pipe tape on the rod and hose connection. Other wise best video I have seen. Very detail. Thanks s bunch.👍
Hi obtugtxivtub - The connection between the flex pipe and the top of the anode where I did *not* use tape specifically does not need it. That fitting employs a small rubber washer inside the flex pipe side (much like a garden hose) to make the connection watertight. Teflon tape and/or pipe dope is not needed there. I didn't mention it in the video because of the wide variety of other ways that heaters can be connected, and I didn't want to confuse anyone who may not have the same sort of connections. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing this! Really appreciate your detailed demonstration.
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you for sharing it with us!
As a new home owner I am addicted to your well created instructionals. Thank you so much, you are a life (and wallet) saver!
Wow, thank you, Alanalso!
❤
Excellent instructions. Detailed and easy to understand!
Note to self: Do not buy a Bradford White water heater
Excellent advice, quite a few great tips! Thank you for assisting others saving ton of money.
Glad it was helpful, James!
Its a very pleasant presentation with a calm assuring voice, thanks for your time, keep them coming.
Put a 5/8" Shoulder Bolt in the Nipple to prevent collapse, when removing the Anode Rod.
Exercise care using pipe wrench. Some anode rods assembled from the factory are so tight that we tend to use cheater bar for leverage. However, there is a danger that the anode rod pipe itself will collapse/crack and break right at the threading. That will be a bad day indeed. I use a socket wrench with the correct size inserted into the opening to prevent these mishaps.
Great tips, thank you!
Excellent video! I am 72 and never understood why a water heater could suddenly spring a leak because it was 10 years old. Plumbers never tell you to replace anode bars every 3 years or drain the fixture every 6 months either. If we all did this, our water heaters might last for 20 years due to lack of corrosion…😂😡
These last about 1 year in Phoenix. Amazon is a great place to get a replacement.
Water softeners accelerate the degradation of the anode, I change mine every 1 1/2 years.
Well done tutorial, covered all the bases.
Thanks for the video. I just replaced the anode rod on my Bradford white water heater. problems everywhere! When I disconnected the hot water outlet, a lot of water went everywhere, even though I opened my hot water faucets, and drained the water heater somewhat. The insulation on the top of my water heater has been moist for days now, not sure how to dry it.
The Copper to CPVC hot water outlet pipe broke its seal. Had to wait till the next morning to get to Home depot. they had a sharkbite water heater kit. Surprisingly, it was exactly what I needed. I didnt have to extend any cpvc. Plus it has a valve built in, so next time I wont have tons of water draining back.
Oof! Sounds like yours was an adventure. Great job getting it taken care of!
Very thorough and clear, thank you!
After doing mine I can attest to using an impact wrench. I messed around with the cheater/breaker bar and saw others using an impact. Breaks that seat and use your ratchet to finish and use the ratch to reinstall. Impacts are your friend here
You’re a good teacher!
Thank you for watching!
@17:30 I've been so annoyed in other videos when they mention to "make sure you put the teflon on the right direction", then they do it backward. Thanks for pointing it out specifically.
One of my pet peeves as well, Steve. Thanks for watching!
You explain so nicely. Cool
Thank you!
Probably won’t be attempting this, because I recently installed a new water heater myself. But it’s good to know how to if I do at some point. Btw it was driving me mad that you didn’t clean the top the water heater before you started 😉
Heh. I like to leave things as they actually are, because the chances are that the top of everyone's heater is pretty dirty... having said that, I should have started with it still dirty (and shown it that way) then mentioned it would be a great time to clean it off and do so quickly in the video. Then the rest of the shots would be of a nice, clean heater top. I'll keep this in mind for future projects. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic video, very professional. Great tips, esp about cutting magnesium! Going to drain flush and replace anode on mine soon, tho mine is a “standard” anode on its own bolt. But was buried under insulation I had to cut out first (Raheem brand).
Glad it was helpful!
Rheem?
Nice video! I also have a Bradford White water heater, and was wondering where the anode was.
You might consider updating your video to deal with the fact that the rubber seals in the corrugated hot water heater supply line, especially on the hot water side, will become hardened and will often crack or just won't seal. They are replaceable, so you don't need to replace the corrugated supply line if they won't seal. I have included the part number and some links to the Danco version of them at the end of this comment.
The proper replacements are not flat rubber washers -- they are actually beveled, with the outside edge being thicker than the inside. This is done to help insure that when they are tightened they properly seal, and to insure the connection is electrically insulated, forming what is called a "dielectric" connection (explanation below).
These corrugated supply lines are intended to be dielectric, which means they electrically isolate the metal in the water heater from the house plumbing. This is necessary to prevent galvanic corrosion between the dissimilar metals in the water heater and the metals in your plumbing from occurring.
Caution -- don't try and use a flat washer from a garden hose. While it may work for a while, it will fail -- especially on the hot water side where the seal takes a beating from the heat. The flat washer also may not properly electrically isolate the fitting.
It's a bit of a pain to remove the old washer, because it usually has hardened up, but it can be done with some patience and either a pick, or a small flat bladed screw driver. Here are some tips:
1. Make sure you remove all of the old seal before pushing the replacement into place.
2. I recommend rinsing or blowing out the supply line to get rid of any bits that may have fallen inside during the removal -- you don't want those bits in your plumbing.
3. I recommend replacing the washers in both ends of the supply tube -- since you will have to remove the supply tube to rinse or blow it out anyway.
4. Make sure to work the replacement in so that it is fully seated against the bottom of the fitting all the way around, (and pull up on the threaded nut to make sure the rubber seal really is pushed all the way down inside). Don't use anything sharp to push the new sealing washer into place. You don't want to cut or gouge it. It's okay to use something dull if you need to -- just be careful.
The Danco part number for the proper washer/seal is 65884B, and they sell for around $1.25-$1.40 each in most hardware stores and plumbing supply places.
Here are two links to the washers (the DoitBest link shows a picture of the actual beveled washer, the AceHardware link just shows a picture of the bag):
www.doitbest.com/shop/plumbing-supplies/pipe-fittings/sewer-and-drain-fittings/rubber-sewer-and-drain-washer-replacement/danco-1-in-water-supply-line-washer-replacement?SKU=492981
www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/faucet-and-faucet-repair/plumbing-washers/4023925
(Note the title at the DoitBest site is a bit misleading -- they call it a 1 inch washer, but it is intended to be used in a standard 3/4 inch corrugated water heater supply line.
For some reason, Amazon is now charging $4.50 each for these Danco sealing washers (they used to sell them for 96 cents each a year ago), so it is much cheaper to get them from Ace Hardware or DoitBest hardware (I couldn't find them on the TrueValue site). Both of these national hardware chains will ship them to your local store for free so you can avoid any shipping charges by picking them up there.
The big box stores don't seem to sell these sealing washers anymore -- instead they want to sell you a replacement supply tube for $20-$40.
Thanks for your video -- just what I needed! Why do you not put teflon tape on the joint from the top of the anode to the house hot water pipe?
Great question, David! That fitting already has a rubber gasket inside the house side of the connection that makes a great seal. Teflon tape there would be superfluous. I won’t hurt anything, but there is no reason to have it there at all.
Your the only person I ever seen use Teflon tape with pipe dope, scratch the teflon, as the threads need to make contact with the female end, using teflon and dope will make the anode less effective.
Hi Landon - lots of people use both. As long as you tighten the fitting properly, plenty of surface are of the threads will cut through the teflon tape and make a good conduction path for the anode to work properly. Thanks for watching!
Kudos to the original installers. I suspect the reason the anode is cut short is because they removed the anode before installing the water heater. After installing the heater, they found the anode was too long to install (thus too long to remove) and cut it to fit. OTOH, their foresight prevented us learning how to keep metal dust from falling into the water heater while hacksawing an anode being held by vise-grips,..
I suspect the original anode was installed at the factory, not by the plumber who installed the heater. As for metal flakes that may make their way into the tank: that's why there's a drain valve and flushing procedure for all water heaters - to flush out any junk that makes its way into your heater. Thanks for watching!
Great video all the way through, but one thing, why not clean the top of water heater first, as looking at all that dust/debris was painful during the video??
Hey Carl - thanks for the feedback. I like to show the real-world conditions in my videos so people are not surprised by what they may find, or confused that I may have been working on a brand-new heater, etc. Thanks for watching!
Very instructional video and very well narrated and demonstrated. Thank you! I have a double vented Bradford White gas powered water tank and I ordered the replacement anode rods before realizing that I only have about 2 feet of clearance from the top of the tank! Will replacing the rod in this case require the tank to be completely emptied and uncoupled before it can be tilted enough to insert the new rod? Thanks.
I'm glad you found the video useful! Sounds like you have a tricky install / replacement ahead. It would be best to find a way to get the anode in without any modification to it or uninstalling the heater - but in your case, here is what I would likely try:
Anode rods are not actually solid rods - they are a rod of the anode material with a steel cable running down through the entire length of it. In your shoes, I'd cut out a notch of the anode alloy about 1/2" wide about halfway down the length of the rod - i.e., get all the magnesium or aluminum (whatever your rod is made out of) off the steel cable there. You could use a hack saw to cut 2 slots about a half inch apart into the anode material all the way around until you get to the steel cable core, then use a pair of pliers to pull / rip out the little section of anode material. Then your rod would be able to flex/bend at the point where you have removed the anode material, and you should be able to get it into your tank.
A word of caution: DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS TO CUT INTO ANODES. If you have a magnesium anode, it can ignite, and you won't be able to put it out. Cut it by hand with a hack saw, and there is little to no danger.
I hope all this makes sense - essentially you are going to convert your solid anode into something like the flexible anode I showed in this video.
Good luck!
@@AmplifyDIY Really appreciate that feedback, thanks very much! And I was paying attention to your warning of not using power tools around (Mg), so I'll make sure to not make that mistake (I vividly recall my senior chemistry class experiment mixing elemental (Na) with water and the resulting fireworks)!
Great Vid
Minerals don't attack the steel. The anode polarizes the steel, which reduces corrosion cells within it.
14:44 - I don't know how that heat trap is supposed to work when that black blocker valve part is smaller in diameter (slightly) than the diameter of the part above it that rides against the inside of the anode rod/outlet pipe. Won't water get past that gap? I bought a replacement heat trap and the black valve part is smaller in diameter in the same way. Can't say that for the cold water trap where the black valve is wider in diameter.
Maybe the manufacturer doesn't want you to get the old one out and extend it's life.
I have a leak where water appears near the cold water pipe, but then hot water. How would I determine if it is the pipe or nipple leaking versus the tank itself? It’s a Bradford White tank like yours.
Nice video. I came across your video and I like it. BTW, are you from NM? I noticed inspection tags colors . Unless the state you are from, they use similar colors. Thanks.
Not from NM - just similar color tags, I guess. Thanks for watching!
so when you reconnect the hot water line to the new anode you don't use teflon tape or pipe dope?
No, the fitting for my heater has a rubber washer inside that seals the connection. You should not use pipe dope or teflon tape for such a fitting. Great question, thanks for watching!
Did you not need to add teflon tape or pipe dope to the top threads?
Hi Chris - no, the fittings that connect to the top threads have rubber washers inside them which make the seal water tight. It is not recommended to add thread sealant or pipe dope to that type of fitting. Thanks for watching!
This is exactly what i was looking for..... but i cant seem to find the part number for that heat trap.... you have what seemes like the exact water heater and set up i got, what was the part number for your heat trap?
I'm pretty sure it was the "Bradford White 239-45167-00 Heat Trap Outlet". Best of luck!
A possible solution for the problem at 10:29 minutes in....Use a 3/4 inch black threaded T fitting and tighten it down on the anode rod then unscrew the anode rod with the T fitting on it
Good idea!
perfect time to drain the rest of the tank when the rod is swaying.....
Good video thankyou
If you don’t have enough ceiling space and have to cut it to get it out, then how do you install the new rod?
You would need to use a segmented rod. I show one of these starting around the 4:20 mark. Good luck!
Interesting. I just moved into a condo with Bradford White. Not an anode question but where can I find the date of Manufacture on my water heater?
I bought a house several months ago that has a Bradford White water heater (less than 2 yrs old) installed , and about a week ago noticed a rotten egg smell from the area where the water heater & soft water system is located. One person I spoke to said the anode rod may need to be replaced & suggested switching from magnesium to aluminum. From what you've said and the little bit of reading I've done, a magnesium anode rod is better with soft water systems?
How often should I expect to have to replace this anode rod?
Thank you.
Hi tzd7 - In general with a rotten egg smell your friend is right, switching to an aluminum anode can help - BUT - since you have a water softener, I strongly suggest you don't do that. Does your hot water smell badly in the shower, or do you only detect the smell in the area immediately around the heater? If the water itself is stinky, often the best move is to install what is called a "powered anode" - they are somewhat more rare, but they have a great track record of completely eliminating a rotten egg smell in water heaters with softeners. I don't have a lot of experience with them, but here is an excellent article that explains exactly what is going on and why, and how to best deal with it correctly: www.watertechonline.com/home/article/15535688/replacing-anodes-getting-rid-of-odor
Good luck!
Oh, and typically you should expect to start checking the anode annually when the tank is about 3 years old, and replace it once it is used up. However, that's just the general rule of thumb: varying water conditions etc can have a large impact on the that timeline.
@@AmplifyDIY
Thank you so much for your response.
The rotten egg smell is coming from the area where the water heater and soft water system is located; I've not detected any odor coming from the water itself.
I'll take time this evening to read the article you provided to become more acquainted with this.
Your expertise is much appreciated!
@@AmplifyDIY
I had a plumber out yesterday who told me the odor cannot be due to
a bad anode rod because there is no odor in the water itself (coming from faucets or shower).
He also drained some water from the water heater and let that drain into floor drain and did not detect any odor coming straight from drained water. He left my house perplexed saying he did not have any idea where the odor was coming from. He used some type of detector to check for gas leak (which picked up no leaks). Could methane gas be the cause of this odor coming from this closet?
The floor drain is very old and corroded. I'm at my wit's end with this situation and not knowing where to turn. Thank you for your help.
My water smells. I was told to remove the rod on this and just leave it out. Is that possible?
It would be far better to replace the rod with the right kind. Is the smell a "rotten egg" smell? If it is, you should replace the rod with an aluminum/zinc alloy rod rather than magnesium. You can learn more about this here: www.waterheaterrescue.com/Troubleshooting/stinky-water-in-hot-water-heaters.html (note: I'm not affiliated at all with this site - it's the first thing that came up when I searched google for: "which anode rod rotten egg smell?". Good luck!
Leave it out a Bradford white rep told me people do that in cases where they can't get rid of smelly water after changing several anod rods without rod your water smell will be gone but will have to change heater sooner for tank leak it's a trade off ,,
Are you sure it’s the water and not the sink drain? My sink drain smells but the water, in a cup, is ok.
Thanks for your great fun and educational videos.
I need to replace my 50 gallon electrical water heater, any particular brand that you can recommend me please? Nothing specific just a base decent quality tank, my original tank is RUUD brand it’s 20 yr old. Btw I’m in Florida. Thanks in advance. Happy new year
I don't have any specific suggestion other than to avoid Bradford White. I really don't like their anode design. Good luck!
muy buen video,gracias
Well all you need is two nuts to fit the nipple jam them together and unscrew never touching the threads with a wrench, if the anode is in half good shape you do not just shove it back in you take wire bush to it then re install as long as you have not messed up the threads.Neve put a wrench to any threads you plan ir nay have re reuse.
Great tips!
Can you replace one on a 15-20 year water heater?
You can, but before even attempting it, I'd make sure I'd saved up enough to buy a new heater *just in case something goes wrong*. A 20 year old heater that has never been maintained is living on borrowed time... Good luck!
If there's a lot of material you can probably just sand the surface to maintain its reactivity and put it back.
Great video, thank you very much. I have the exact same water heater brand as shown in your video, so just wonder how often I should replace anode rode? Thank you.
Hi Ronald - Bradford White recommends you start checking the anode annually 3 years after install, and replace it when less than 50% of the original diameter remains. Exactly how long this will take will vary greatly based on the type of water supply, whether you have a softener, etc.
Bottom line: If your heater is more than 3 years old, it's time to check the anode. If the anode looks really thin, it's time to replace it. Thanks for watching!
@@AmplifyDIY Ok, thank you for the explanation.
How old was the original anode rod when replaced?
Hi Hal - it was about 4 years old or so, as I recall. Thanks for watching!
If the anode cannot be removed, what is the solution? Leave water heater alone until it leaks?
With a little creativity, any anode should be removable. You may need to disconnect and tilt the heater out into the room so there is more head space, or you may need to remove the anode in sections, etc. Good luck!
Some manufacturers epoxy the anode rod so it cannot be removed even with breaker bar.
If the heater is in a small closet, would I be able to remove the anode rod?
When the heater is in a small closet, you still have options. To remove the existing anode, first get it loose and pull it up as far as you can to inspect the surface. If it is time to change it, here is how I would do it if I only had a foot or 2 of head room over the heater:
1) pull the anode out as far as I can
2) place a clamp or vice-grip at the lowest part of the anode that is visible, to hold it up.
3) use a hack saw to cut off the portion above the clamp or vice grip
4) pull the next section out, move the clamp down as far as you can, cut again, etc.
Just be VERY careful that you DO NOT drop the end of the anode into the heater tank. Once you have removed the old one by cutting it out in sections, you can use one of the flexible anodes that I showed in the video as a replacement.
Good luck!
Hello when draining the tank will it work if your hose has to go up stairs from the basement?
Hi there - no, you have to drain down hill. There should be a floor drain in your basement that you can use. Good luck!
@@AmplifyDIY yeah thats what I thought . Unfortunately my floor drain seems to be slightly clogged as water goes down very slowly. Guess I gotta get that taken care of first! Thanks!
@@happydogg312 thanks for the suggestions. Ended up getting the floor drain unclogged as it started to back up the laundry machine. Havent used it yet to empty the tank though.
In a lot of cases to you can pop the outer upper cover off of the water heater and expose the top of the tank course you have to take your cold line loose as well that might give you a little more room for she have to be careful cuz that sheet metal could have sharp edges so you'd want to lay a blanket or something there in case your wrench would happen to slip and you should be wearing gloves
Why no tape or compound on the water fitting?
Hi Jgrenwod - that fitting has a rubber washer inside that makes the watertight seal. You should not use tape or pipe dope on that type of fitting. Great question!
What is the maximum I can cut an anode rod? My rod does not fit in, due to height of sealing.
Hi Rohit - if you have to cut the anode, it will not last as long. If you can, it's better to get one of the flexible anodes I showed in the video so you can get a full-length one installed. Good luck!
@@AmplifyDIY I already brought a straight one and costs a lot to return. For next time I will use flexible, after watching your video. I am looking at cutting 7" from 50" rod.
@@rohitbhatnagar7599 Ah, cutting a 50" rod down to 43" is fine. Good luck with the install!
why not also teflon tape the final hot water threads?
The final connection has a rubber washer at the bottom of the fitting that seals the joint. There is no need for any thread compound or teflon tape on that joint. Great question, and thanks for watching!
In an another video, I heard that if i haven't flushed water out of tank for more than 3-4 years, I shouldn't do it? Is that true. I just learnt about water heater maintenance so I want to flush water and probably replace anode? Any suggestions?
Hi Prashanth - there are a lot of factors that can affect how much sediment collects in the bottom of your water heater tank. The quality / mineral content of the water supply, how hot you have your heater set, whether you have a whole house water filter, whether you have a water softener, etc. For some, 3-4 years is enough time to get 6-8 inches of sediment built up at the bottom of the tank, while for others they will have little build up at all. I wish there was a better, more concrete guideline, but it's pretty nuanced. I would not hesitate to flush any heater that was was last flushed or installed less than 10 years ago. A heater that is older than 10 years? I'd attach a drain hose to it and see if it will even drain, or if the drain valve is completely plugged up and clogged. If it is, I may try to clear out the drain valve with an unbent coat hanger, and see just what the sediment looks like and if it will clear out enough to even drain the tank in the first place. The concern with a heater that is quite old and has never been flushed is that the tank may have already failed (sprung a leak) but the sediment / scale has sealed it up and kept it from actually leaking. But that same sediment is causing the heater to be terribly inefficient, etc.
I've done a series of videos all about various things homeowners can do themselves to maintain their water heaters. Hopefully you'll get some good answers in those, but I'm always happy to answer questions directly as well. Good luck!
@@AmplifyDIY Thank you for quick response. My water heater is 12 years old. I just installed whole house water softner just a year ago. I will see if it drains out.
I want to use an aluminum/zinc anode rod. However, I do have a water softener. Reason being, it will last longer and I won't have to be concerned about potential rotten egg smell from the magnesium rod. What's your opinion on this? The water softener I have specs out for a aluminum/zinc rod
Yes, an Aluminum rod sounds like a good idea. Good luck!
Why do you refer to magnesium and aluminum as alloys?
How do you know when this needs to be replaced? I'm nearly 74 and never replaced one in my lifetime?
Hi Jack - There are 3 main types of anodes: pure magnesium, pure aluminum, and an aluminum/zinc alloy. Apologies if I misspoke in the video regarding exactly what they are made of.
As far as when to replace them: The rule of thumb is to start checking the state of the anode after it's been installed for 3 years, and then annually thereafter. Once the anode has deteriorated to the point it is less than half it's original diameter, it's time to replace it.
Thanks for watching!
How long is the rod?
its not bad because you have a water softner
how often should you replace this rod?
Hi Wayne - Starting when your heater is about 3 years old, this rod should be checked annually to see how it is holding up. Replace it when it is mostly eaten away. Great question!
Hi, can you tell me where you bought the parts, amazon has many not sure which is original, and manufacturer website doesn’t have parts link.
Thanks,
Jai
Hi Jai - I can tell you the exact part number I ordered: 224-47776-19. This fits a bunch of the Bradford White heaters, but you'll need to make sure your heater is one of them. Supplyhouse.com is where I ordered mine, and if you go search Google for that part number, theirs is the first result that comes up for me. On their product page, they list all the heater models that this anode fits. The list is too long to put in a comment here, but if you'd like more info feel free to email me at amplifydiy@gmail.com. Good luck!
@@AmplifyDIY , thanks very much and a big thanks for helping everyone through your videos, they're very detailed and informative.
To avoid distorting the nipple make sure you adjust the pipe wrench so it touches the pipe at three places. This Old House says it best. Skip to 1 minute 20 seconds to see what I mean.
ua-cam.com/video/aPNlAXnTbWI/v-deo.html
Patrick Burns, thank you for your comment! Just turned 52 and finally know how to use a pipe wrench properly, because of you!
My water Bradford is 16 years old. Never flushed never changed anode rod. Not touching anything until it leaks or dies.
Yeah, you are on borrowed time. I hope it lasts a lot longer for you!
@@AmplifyDIY Well over its life span so I am in the +.
I've tried this but it doesn't work. The anode rod on my tank had a 1-1/16" hex nut. I used a pipe wrench, socket breaker bar. Nothing worked to budge it. They used some kind of locktite on the anode to keep people from removing it. Also, with a full tank of water, I would attempt to remove it. It withstood enough force to start to rotate the tank on the floor! It would not budge.
If I was a bit more daring, I would of emptied the tank and used my torch to heat the anode nut. Sometimes, a little bit of heat will degrade the locktite but it just wasn't worth the trouble for me.
That stinks. If or when you ever replace that heater with a new one, one of the first things you should do is remove the anode and re-seat it with a little less torque. When they are new from the factory they are quite tight, but usually don't actually have loc-tite on them. Over time with repeated heat cycles and corrosion though, they jam up so tight they are impossible to remove. If you can get it loosened up first thing on a new heater and re-install it with some pipe dope it'll come out easier in the future when it's time to inspect/change it.
Good luck!
@@AmplifyDIY I was thinking after buying the water heater, I'll drive over to the local tire shop I go to and have them use their impact to remove the damned thing! And then I'll do as you say and reseat it will a less torque. In theory as long as the sacrificial anode is changed out, then the tank should last a very very long time.
I'd love to hear if you are able to get it out. Good luck!
Where to buy the heat trap?
Hi Mitchel - I bought it from the same place I picked up the anode itself. It was less than $5. Here is a link to the one I *think* I used: www.supplyhouse.com/Bradford-White-239-45167-00-Heat-Trap-for-Anode-Rod
Not knowing what the tan colored "dust" is on top of the water heater.... the dust looks like wood or insulation debris..... One MAY WANT to clean the top of the water heater especially near the hot air vent for the gas fired burner..... JUST IN CASE....
How old was your wh?
At the time I replaced this anode it was around 3 years old. As I mentioned in the video, the anode still had a few years of life left in it, but I went ahead with the replacement to show all the steps in the job.
Also, note that the quality of your water supply can drastically affect the useful lifetime of your anode. Most manufacturers say to start checking your anode 3 years after install, and annually thereafter until it needs to be replaced.
Thanks for watching, and good luck with yours!
Those cheater bars are called “snipes”
I’ll bet that original anode rod was cut so they could fit it in there!
Yup, most likely!
Dude, no store sells this rod, none
Ahem:
www.homedepot.com/s/anode%2520rod?NCNI-5
www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=anode+rod
www.acehardware.com/search?query=anode+rod
Those are all generic anode rods. If you need the specific rod I showed in this video, you can get it online from a number of places. Here is where I ordered mine:
www.supplyhouse.com/Bradford-White-Anode-Rods-17330000
I've never even thought to do this. Now it'll be on my annual to do list. Is it better to do it in the summer or can I do it in the dead of winter?
Any time of year is fine. Good luck!
Great tutorial. I would had cleaned the working (top of the tank) area prior to starting to remove and replace things though.
Having seen this video, I am inspired to clean mine. 🙂
While I just recently found your videos, I find them very informative and helpful. Being a Union Pipefitter actively working in the trade for 24 years and the last 10 retired, nothing bothers me more (pet peeve), than to see someone use a wrench the wrong way. First example was using the adjustable pliers backwards. The proper way is to push the wrench so that that the jaws of the wrench flex into the pipe or fitting and the teeth are angled in such a manner that they bite into whatever you are trying to loosen. Second example the nut to the anode rod should always have 3 points of contact with the adjustable wrench as well. In doing so you will have a much tighter connection with the nut and it will be less likely to slip. Lastly, when using the pipe wrench, it’s extremely important to establish 3 points of contact with the rod as well. The three points being the two jaws and the throat of the wrench. This, like the adjustable pliers, will make a much tighter bite due to the pitch of the teeth on the jaws. It may not have been as important in this application but when using a pipe wrench on pipes, maintaining a three point grip will prevent the pipe wrench from egging the pipe. (taking pipe out of round) I was always taught to always use a wrench the correct way they are intended to be used.
I will agree with the others in saying your videos are very well done and you obviously are very talented at what you do. Also, you don’t have a lot of unnecessary words like umm or uhh being used. Great job!! Keep up the great, and informative videos!!
Hi David - I appreciate your constructive feedback. I'll be more careful in the future to demonstrate proper technique. In at least one instance, I purposely had to use a wrench backwards on a fitting as I was only using it to gently brace the fitting so I could apply torque to another part... but your points are all valid, and well explained. Thank you for taking the time to comment, and for watching some of my videos!
@@AmplifyDIYI would also like to add that, I think is best to use adjustable wrenches for nuts instead of players. You get a better fit and grip on the nut.
Great video though, I learned something new regarding the anode rods.
Why does Bradford White have to be so ... special? Their anodes can be a real pain in the neck to replace.
They want you to buy a new tank not an anode.
Yeah; did you notice the groove above the lower thread? It's there to weaken the fitting so it will break off flush with the top of the tank in the event of over-tightening or rust seizing the thread the least little bit when removing the thing. B*st*rds.
First great video just like all your other videos and i just have two questions 1. Why didn't you put thread sealant on the side connected to the house is that not recommended? 2. Question is what to do if i don't have flexible pipes like you have mine seemed to be just brass pipes on cold and hot side ( i also have the pleasure of owning a Bradford ) so what should i do and is there a ano rod on the cold water pipe also ?
@@By_Any_Means_Necessary 1) If the fittings above the nipples have rubber washers, then thread sealant is not required. Do not over tighten, that would damage the washer(s).
2) If you don't have flex pipes, the installer was an a-hole, lots of extra work required.
3) There's usually no anode rod below the cold inlet.
My water heater lasted 30 years. Didn’t flush it or replace the anode. Sometimes if it ain’t broke don’t fix it as you could cause more problems. Since the old anode was still good just leave it as is.
Subscribed due to your video quality and thorough explanation of how to get 'er done without repeating yourself a million times as others seem to do in their videos. Great job and very well done, especially when you included the part regarding your brothers' heater issue and how you fixed it. Thank you for making this awesome video !
I switched to the Corro-Protec powered anode rods. They completely eliminate the sulfuric smell, (which is CAUSED by the magnesium rod), and last 20 years. No need to change the anode rod every year. They are short and easily fit a tank with limited overhead clearance. No need to keep trying chlorine or hydrogen peroxide contortions to get rid of the sulfur smell. I expect to get 20 years of service out of my water heater. We do have a whole house water filter ahead of a water softener so there is very little issue with sediment and calcium entering the water heaters. And they do make them for the Bradford White application.
I've heard very good things about powered anodes. Thanks for watching!
Good job. The only thing you didn't do was clean off the top of the tank.
That manufacturer was in a foul mood when he designed that thing. Brutal.
Yeah and I just realized I have one! ugh.
A "Three Corner Bite" with the pipe wrench so you don"t collapse the pipe.
That's not a cheater bar..... it's the "PERSUADER"
So glad I don't have that type of rod. Love my separate one. That designs presents all sorts or issue. Good video
I have the exact one and I'm on my third one, First lasted one month before the warranty ended so it was covered the second one around the 6 year mark but since it was the replacement it was not covered. when this one goes I'm changing brands.
I just found out the anode rod needs to make metal to metal contact on the threads when replacing! You can't use too much dope/tape or it will not make contact.
You can always check for a good connection with a basic multi-tester’s continuity testing function. Great tip! 👍🏼