How to Replace A Water Heater Sacrificial Anode Rod
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
- A quick video showing how to replace the sacrificial anode rod inside a typical hot water heating tank. This procedure is essentially the same for most if not all gas and electric water heaters. The anode rod (typically made from aluminum/zinc or magnesium) slowly dissolves away due to galvanic corrosion that exists within the water and the steel water tank. As the rod depletes the steel tank is left alone until there is no more sacrificial metal to eat away at. Anode rods typically will last anywhere between 3-15 years depending on water conditions. The tank in the video is over 14 years old and the original anode rod was surprisingly intact! Anodes can be found at Home Depot, Lowes or other home improvement stores at a cost of about $20-25. They can vary in length and composition but the key thing to remember is that you don't want to buy a rod that is tool long and you don't want to leave the service interval of the rod to be too long. If there is no anode then there is no protection for your water tank against corrosion. Just replacing the anode on a regular basis can add years to your water heater.
Typical tools you'll need include:
Flat bladed screwdriver (to open water tank drain valve).
1 1/16" or 27mm 6 point socket to remove anode
1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar
Pipe to put onto end of ratchet or breaker bar to give you more leverage
Plumber's teflon tape or paste
Drain hose to attach to tank drain spigot
New anode rod (length and material used is dependent on height of tank and type of water conditions in your area)
Matches if you need to re-light your tank's gas fired pilot
A helper to hold the water tank while you break the anode rod loose
Good luck!
This is the way a how-to video should be presented. Great job!
glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!
Nice presentation. I just did mine this past weekend. It was almost 6 years old and looked just like yours. I just doubled the life of my tank. FYI the tanks that have extended warranty they have 2 sacrificial rods in the tank. If you replace these rods often and frequently the tank can last a long long time ! It’s just recently that all the hype of anode rod replacement has just started. Before no one ever talked about it!
Glad it was helpful!
This video is very well done. U do a good job explaining. Just wanted to add some helpful info. The water to the home doesnt need to b shut off you should have a shut off valve on cold water supply line above wh. U only need to drain about 2 gallons of water. If your draining into a bucket that may b a better reference than 5 mins. Make sure u use white plumbers tape for water & yellow for gas. Tape should b applied clockwise 3-5 times. Skip first 2 rings on pipe hope this is helpful. Info comes from Rheem manufactor. Thks everyone.
all great tips! Thanks for sharing with our audience.
A perfectly direct video to answer the question: "How to replace a sacrificial anode in a hot water heater". Thanks for taking time to do this.
You are welcome!
Same basic information as other anode rod replacement videos but your clear, concise and organized presentation made this video a pleasure to watch.
glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!
Straight, simple and to the point! Love it! Just a note, the reason the sacrificial rod was in such a "good" shape is that it has been calcified thick preventing the ions in the water from eating away at the sacrificial material since its completely coated!
Glad you liked the video. Yes the rod on this tank was definitely overdue for replacement which was why I took it upon myself to yank it out and replace it. This actually wasn't even my tank but a relatives that asked me if I knew how to replace one.
Yes, the size of that hex nut on the Sacrificial Anode Rod is 1 1/16". Best to use a breaker bar for extra leverage as those anode rods tend to be wedged in there pretty tight. Most of the time there is not enough space above the hot water take to get the new anode rod in, but that is okay, just take a grinder and grind away some V-shaped 'bites' in the anode rod so it is easier to bend the rod at those places. Remember, there is a thin main steel bar in the center of that aluminum tube and you DO NOT want to accidentally cut or even touch that bar with the grinder, so be careful, don't cut too deep ! Now you can simply bend the rod, insert it, and re-straighten the anode rod as you insert it into your tank. That's what I just did today. In the U.S.A. they have anode rods already made like this, they are called 'flexible' anode rods.
wow that is a great tip! I haven't seen the flexible rods in Canada although I'm sure if I went a specialty plumbing place that I could probably find them. Thanks for sharing those great ideas with our viewers!
@@piercedasian The flexible rods are twice and sometimes more than twice the cost of the non-flexible rods.
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
yeah they're indeed handy. I wonder how much those add to your power bills keeping water warm constantly.
Great video. My tank is 16-17 years old. Never had a problem with it. I also have never replaced the anode rod or even drained the tank. Honestly, I never realized this maintenance needed to be done. Now, I'm not sure if I should try to drain the tank, replace the anode rod (and maybe the thermostat and heating element) myself for a few hundred dollars and hope it doesn't open Pandora's box and might be a waste of time and money. Or replace the tank which will be a few thousand dollars. I don't have any real issues, but the family claim the water isn't heating as well as it should be.
Great video. I will look for more from you!
Hey Mike! Given the tank is that old that I would not recommend you bother wasting time and money on doing the work. I'd opt to replace the tank (it's long overdue for most people) and you'll get better performance and efficiency from the new one going forward, you can put the TLC into looking after the new one where it will make a difference for its longevity. A tank that doesn't heat water as well as a sure sign that it is getting old. The longest tank I have seen live is 25 years but that water heater was barely making enough hot water. The few thousand you invest now will be worth it when you're being supplied with a strong supply of hot water for many many many years to come. The anode replacement details on the new tank will be fundamentally the same as it is for your old tank. Just make sure you buy a tank that has a separate anode rode that can be removed easily on its own and not the lame "integrated" ones that are tied in with the cold water dip tube or part of the hot water outlet. Those are much more of a pain to swap out when they need replacing.
Very well done video. You and superman rocked that install!
lol, glad you liked my video!
That's the cleanest, shiniest 14 year old water heater in history.
+2packs4sure it is interesting you say that as you're not the first to say that. Water heaters in homes (at least in our neck of the woods) look brand new even after 25 years. I'm not sure what an old water heater is supposed to look like but every single one I've worked on is clean and shiny. Must be our super dry climate or something that doesn't corrode the outside of the tank perhaps?
crazy. I wonder why...
+piercedasian They wind up in attics, garages, little attached outbuildings.....................
Now i've seen some really old ones in Houston in interior laundry rooms and those age nicely.
ah I get it. In Canada all water heaters must be inside a structure with MOST water heaters residing in the basements of homes or worst case in an enclosed garage.
It's our 95 percent humidity and 98 degree temps. Welcome to Houston, TX.
I love the detailed steps and actually showing each step. Other how-to videos describe a lot but don't actually show it all. Thanks!
glad you found it useful and informative! Thank you for watching!
I will be doing this soon, so I have been watching many videos of people doing this. You have done a very good job of explaining all of the steps. While doing my water heater, I plan on inserting an inspection camera inside to try get an idea how well it is doing. I may also try putting in a wooden stick to feel if there is much sediment on the bottom after 6 years of use.
yes, replacing the anode is such an easy task that there isn't a reason why someone shouldn't consider replacing it every 3-5 years. Adds so much life to a tank that this should be a requirements like changing out furnace filters!
One of the more clear videos on replacement of anode in a hot water heater!
glad you liked my vid!
I bought this water heater ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
cool!
Excellent video! Extremely thorough and much clearer than another I watched.
glad you liked my video!
This presentation was excellent! Very clear w/ great pics - peering directly down the anode hole revealing the particulate matter- was helpful.
Glad you liked the vid. Thanks for watching!
Great video!
A few notes.
Sometimes you need a heavy duty impact drill to get the anode rod out.
Some people like to "upgrade" their drain valve to a 3/4" ball port valve so they can "flush" the water heater faster.(2 days ago, I just removed 150 lbs of calcium deposits from a commercial water heater. The last plumber installed it toward the wall and we were never able to get to it in 8 years.)
Some people don't have room on top, so they may have to cut and break the old anode rod to remove, then buy the "chain link" version to install back in.
I know you said it in the comments, but just a reminder to some: You don't want to use too much teflon tape because the rod actually has to be grounded to the water heater- metal to metal for it to work. A thin layer of Liquid plumber's paste may be better here
* Fun fact: the 100 gallon, 199k BTU water heater I just replaced has 4 anode rods and after 8 years, the rods were down to nothing!! The new water heater has 4 rods, with an option for a 5th anode rod. Only about 6 inches long, but 3 inches in diameter. It's installed in the clean out(most residential heaters don't have a clean out)
Replacing the anode rod and flushing every 2 years or so can make your water heater last for double it's life.
that is something good advice on the tank and interesting notes about your past experiences! 150 lbs of sediment? WOW.
I'd love to have a large cleanout on my water tank. That would make flushing so much more thorough :)
Nice to watch a video with clear and concise speaking.
Glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video, you are a very good speaker. One thing to add.If anyone has well water it is a good idea to install an aluminum zinc or magnesium zinc anode rod (slightly more $) to reduce smell as the factory rods without the zinc react with the anode to make a sulfur or rotten egg smell. I just replaced my old tank and after a couple of weeks I had that smell. Researched it and the fix is to use the alum/zinc or magn/zinc rods (I think they call them Ka-90).
That's good to know. I have zero experience with well water since our water is municipal fed.
An excellent presentation. Precise, easy to understand descriptions. Great photography. Very helpful!
Thank you kindly!
Good informative video. I also like that you roll the teflon tape in the correct direction so when you tighten it does not come loose. I seen other supposedly professional put the tape in the wrong direction.
glad you liked my vid. I think I put the tape on the proper direction (I usually do) otherwise it would "unravel". Yeah I've seen some pros do some weird things (including the recent plumber that botched my water heater install. We are all human beings so making mistakes is part of life :)
A word of caution: For electric water heaters it is important to make sure it is full of water before supplying electricity to it. If the heating elements are powered without water then can burn up.
yes 100% true. I do not believe I mentioned that in this video but I did mention it in my water heater flushing video (newer than this one). Thanks for the reminder for our viewers.
Thank you! I just replaced my hot water tank and I want to make sure I know how to take care of the new one. I think I’ll be checking my anode every other year and flushing once a year.
flushing regularly is a good habit to get into. I'd recommend just pulling the anode after 2 years and evaluating the condition of it. If there is lots of anode left on it then the next and change can likely go longer before it really needs replacing.
well done on a very clear and explicit presentation. This will save me heaps. The hot water cylinder companies don't seem to mention this in any overt way.
Yeah it is amazing how little education there is on hot water vessel maintenance. A ounce of prevention is like a pound of cure!
Now I can move with confidence on a very necessary money-saving home job. Thanks, guys.
glad you felt the video was useful!
Good video. While on the subject of corrosion on the water tank, One thing you forgot to do, and is a required building code in all states is to use dielectric fittings. One on the cold water inlet and one on hot water outlet. The fittings in the tank are steel. When you connect the copper pipes to those steel fittings rust much like the rod you just replaced tends to build up at this point. These fittings have a nylon pressure barrier that doesn’t let the steel and copper touch. Water and metals of all types don’t get along rust always wins. We can only delay the rust but never eliminate it. That’s why the rod was invented and these dielectric fittings. To better understand this look up dielectric fittings and why they are used. Remember, these are mandatory building code requirements for all states.
Interesting you mention this. What you saw in the video of the pipes going to and from the tank DO meet code in Canada (Alberta at least and in 1997 when this specific tank was installed). I have read a lot about dielectric fittings and I don't see them often here. In my own home which was built in 2002 also do not have dielectric fittings and when my tank finally tanked in early 2018 (no pun intended) that a reputable plumbing company in town also did not put dielectric fittings on. Good for our viewers to know that dielectric fittings are required in ALL US states.
Great video! I've watched several videos on replacing anodes and your video has the most thorough explanation. Thank you for sharing.
you're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Great video, just bought a 3yo gas heater to replace my leaking one, and am installing a new rod in it before. Yeap bought a good working 50 gallon for a small fraction of what a new WH sells for these days so yes I do want to take care of it 😉👍
wow where do you get a 3 year old water heater from? Someone that was renovating their home perhaps?
On the show This Old House, they said if you change this part every 2-3 years your water heater can last 20-30 years. It's important to change this within the first 2 years so it doesn't get seized.
depends on the water in your locality. Anode rods in my neck of the woods will EASILY go 5-8 years without a hitch and will likely not seize in the tank so I think that really depends on where you live and the type of water you have. Good suggestion nonetheless as I'm sure I'm due to inspect my anode rod soon.
Thank you for taking the time to thoroughly explain the process.
You are so welcome!
I did it with the big Milwaukee impact driver....came out with no effort...14 years old and seriously corroded. I had to carefully use the impact driver to force it back on. The impact driver made it totally easy.
yep impact drive would make it EASY but you have to be careful you don't crack the tank or inadvertently cross thread. I'm sure you took the precautions however, I've seen other folks do some silly things to all things "threaded".
I did the same on the removal (still took a couple or minutes impacting before it came loose), but would not use impact to install. It doesn't really have to be that tight (easy to do with hand socket wrench) if you use tape or sealant.
You saved me a lot of money, will try replace the Anode Rod my myself
Good luck. Replacing your own anode is super easy and a good way to save your water from corrosion.
@@piercedasian thanks, i cleaned the filter today for the gas booster
@@piercedasian that rod only cost $19.95 on ebay 🤣🤣🤣
Well done! This is an excellent tutorial, and the best one I've seen on youtube explaining the process.
+MR Frugal glad you like my video. Consider subscribing if you like my channel :)
very helpful. This guy has got the details and gives them freely. Really good. ...Clearance and all...
glad you liked my video.
Well done! No wasted words yet very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
very clear demonstration, and confidence builder for a novice diy home owner. Thanks!
Glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for the clear demonstration. I plan on servicing my HWH soon and I have never done it before. I actually don't know that it's ever been serviced in 14yrs & we have hard water. So this will be interesting.
Wow never serviced in 14 years? It will probably look quite similar to the heater in this video :). Good luck!
It is great to be empowered with information on how to repair and replace! Thank you!
yes I've ALWAYS believed that knowledge is power and the more you know the less likely you'll need to rely on an expensive contractor to look after something so straightforward and simple.
Excellent video! Even covered my question on length of rod and clearance!
Glad it helped!
As an older woman with physical limitations, I really appreciate your video. Very clear instructions.
My water heater is in a closet, and so I can only access it from the front.
Plus, I don't have anyone to help to hold the tank steady, and even if I did have a helper, there is so little room I don't see how a helper could help stabilize the tank without being in the way of removing the anode rod.
Comments appreciated.
Also, I appreciate your comment about replacing the rod before flushing the tank. Although I would have logically assumed that, it helps to have my thoughts about it confirmed.
Have you ever done a replacement of a pilot assembly, or a cleaning of the flame arrestor?
Glad you liked the video. you can still technically access the "top" of the water heater if you've able to reach over the tank from the front. I have worked on water heaters were space was insanely tight but with the aid of a helper you can often get to the anode rod and replace it. The helper can help you hold a light so you can see and to "brace" the water heater when you're trying to undo the rod from the tank.
Or you can simply use a cordless 1/2 impact and the helper can hold your drink :) just make sure when replacing you thread by hand and then a ratchet to avoid cross threading if you can't get enough torque you can do a couple quick pulses with the impact just to make sure its tight
you can use a 1/2" impact driver BUT just remember that should that anode rod really be "stuck" in the threads and refuses to turn and you attempt to "shock or force" the anode out that you could cause a weakened tank (assuming it is quite old and has possibly begun corroding) to develop fractures or cracks in the tank. Using a ratchet and undoing it by hand will allow you to "feel" how much strength you're twisting that rod out and you can decide to stop should it not rotate with a decent amount of force. Not saying your technique is wrong but just pointing out possible issues doing so.
Thank God super chino was helping you holding the water heater great video brother make more with super chino in it !
lol glad you found it useful and entertaining.
Really great video. You perfectly showed how to get the job done. 👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
+Jose Carvalho Thanks!
Super awesome video, dude doesent stumble all all and is clear. Who the hell gave this guy a thumbs down??
I don't know why anyone would give it a thumbs down either. Haters will be haters.
Also if it’s got lots of corrosion or calcium - it doesn’t act in its sacrificial duty anymore and will start working on the inside of the tank which is steel lined with ceramic coating but it breaks down. About $30 to replace it but a plumber will charge up to $300. Just paid $257 to replace one thermostat which was $20 part. If you don’t have clearance for the length of anode rod… they also come in a “sectioned” that’s in like 8-10” sections that connect and you feed them in.
To get out… as he said, you can cut it piece by piece -- but don’t lose it. Dry the rod as far as you can and run duck tape on each piece before you cut and a piece on the bottom piece so you hold on to it. Wrap the tape, and tape to the top of the tank. You will waste a bit of tape but you won’t drop the rod into the tank and not be able to retrieve. This will all depend on length, working space, etc. as some like mine are under the kitchen counter. You don’t want to save couple hundred dollars doing this yourself to have to turn around and have it replaced. The new tanks take up more space and you won’t have the same gallons as you had before. Ask me how I know.
That is a valid point. I only started replacing anode rods maybe in the last 10 years or so and I would agree that one that is coated in calcium won't be doing its job properly. That being said, I've since replaced my old tank and installed a water softener so that calcium won't be building up inside my tank anymore. My understanding is that soft water tends to be harder on tanks as well (not sure of why) but the benefit is no calcium buildup and therefore the anode isn't ever "coated" with anything to cause it to stop working.
You presented this perfectly! Other videos were a bit vague.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Only suggestion would be to put the teflon tape on clockwise so that it does not unravel as you thread the new rod in.
nerdy and not frugal... i like it.
Lol thanks!
You're an excellent orator. Great video.
Thank you! 😊
Excellent job. I found that that is one of the best U Tubes that I have yet seen. Thank you for that.
Glad you liked my video! Thanks for watching :)
Thank you so much greatings from Maryland
You're very welcome!
My sister just replaced her water heater today. It was 22 yrs old and probably never had the anode replaced. I talked with the man the man that did the installation and he said the oldest WH he'd ever replaced was 36 yrs old. Of course he had no way of knowing if the anode had been changed in all those yrs but he speculated that they had been. We are in southern Illinois and the water is probably slightly to hard side. I wonder how long a guy could make his WH last if anode was replaced every 5 yrs or less.
btw...My sister paid $420 for a 40 gallon Rheem gas heater.
Good video!
wow 36 years old! I can only DREAM of a water heater last that long! They don't make em' like the used to... Hard to say if the anode rod was replace but regardless your sister got great value out of her heater. $420 for a new heater? I think in Canada we're double that amount because I recall helping a friend replace his and the cost to buy from sears back in 2010 was about $700 CAD.
I just picked up an anode rod for my water heater. I replaced the rod about 4 years ago, the tank was about 4 years old and the factory rod was very badly corroded It was very tough getting the old one out, I used a 4 ft pipe and a breaker bar - I could never have done it alone.. When I replaced that rod i used teflon tape so hopefully this one will come out easier.
+dell177 wow 4 years and the rod was finished? The rod in this video is 14 years old and it still had metal left on it! If you have troubles with the rod removal I suggest you consider replacing the rod perhaps ever 2-3 years. Rods are cheap and super easy to replace.
+piercedasian I'll replace it this week, as you said they are cheap and if I can make the tank last longer it's well worth it.
absolutely. Good luck!
Very good demonstration with excellent precautionary tips.
+Bejoy Bharatiya glad you liked the vid. Thanks for watching.
Awesome to have Superman as helper! Thanks for the video, replete with instructions.
Perfectionists like me would use a pipe TAP to carefully clean the old female opening at the top of the tank. Paper towels might knock hard matter into the deep grooves of the thread, contributing to accidental ruination upon torquing-down of new rod.
Also, the word "rot" is inappropriate: That word describes what happens to wood, not metal... which "corrodes."
Finally, the point of electrical conductivity is never addressed here. Should there be conductivity between male and female, at the junction at the top of the tank? Presumably, yes. But I am not knowledgeable here. Teflon tape, if used to excess, would prevent said direct conductivity. A galvanic chemistry expert would know for sure, the optimum conditions here for tank longevity.
Again, the whole idea is to prolong the life of the steel in the tank, and thereby the tank, overall.
Hey John, lol I just noticed that I used the word rot to described the consumed rod! My bad indeed and being a car guy I definitely should know better than that! I did fail to mention the conductivity regarding the anode and the teflon tape. From my experience with a thin amount of teflon tape that when you screw the anode in that the threads will cut through the teflon tape and make electrical contact with the tank threads. I've confirmed this after the fact with an ohm meter and there is definitely good continuity. If I ever have to replace an anode rod again I will remake this vid showing the additional steps I did post anode rod replacement.
Very clear an d straight to the point. Thank you very much for making this video!
glad you liked the video.
Excellent, coherent presentation. We could have used a light to brighten up the shaded areas in the video. Thank you.
I have invested in better lighting since I created this video to avoid dimly lit videos like this. Thanks for watching!
yea have house in baja water there is really hard so am sure the tube and anode are eaten up ya just saved me some $$ of buying a new heater...oh a tip...the gas valve are interchangeable. only diff is the face/knob on back all hookups are simular..had to change mine
+Miguel Castaneda interesting about the gas valves. Not sure if I'm bold enough to explain to youTubers on how to take that stuff apart (heaven forbid if someone blows themselves up by accident!).
Awesome DIY video! Thank you!
Thanks for the video, very well done! I must say though I have some doubts about using that Teflon tape on the thread as it may prevent the electric contact between the rod and the tank and thus defeat the whole purpose of having the rod in the firs place! I tell you as a physicist (by education): make sure you have a good electric contact between the road and the tank or it will not work properly!
+M Ch you need not worry about the rod not making contact with the threads on the tank. The threads are quite "sharply cut" and when you're screwing in the rod that the tape on the highest "peaks" of the threads do get cut and contact is made. I've verified contact using an ohm meter from the rod to the tank. It wouldn't be the case IF one were to put layer upon layer upon layer of tape on then yes I would agree there is some risk of not having contact but in 90% of installs I've seen there is electrical continuity.
piercedasian - exactly right. This is an old wives tale about losing conductivity between the rod and the tank there’s no way with the rod tightened down that you will lose contact between the tank and the rod that’s for sure.
Great instructions and very clear. I'm now ready to replace my anode rod. Thank you
glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!
Just a note, use thread sealing compound. Teflon Tape is not recommended to seal the threads. There needs to be good metal continuity contact between the rod and the tank.
if the tape isn't overly thick that when you screw the anode back in that the sharp threads of the anode will cut through the teflon and make good contact with the tank threads. After numerous comments regarding electrical conductivity I tested my tank and it definitely had good continuity.
Clear, concise and complete! Perfect! Thanks
you're welcome! Thanks for watching :)
Well put. Very handy and informative.
I'll be attempting to install a new rod this upcoming weekend.
+Kamran Chaudhry glad you liked my vid! good luck!
Good video. Most of the hot water tank end of with corrosion but if the zinc rod is replaced the corrosion does not happen and the tank life can be prolonged for several to ten years.
Absolutely correct. It amazes me at how many homeowners are completely unaware of rod replacement to extend their tank life. That being said I am glad you liked my video!
This has been the most informant video i have seen yet..
Thanks
+shawn hoever glad you liked my video! Thanks for watching :)
One point to clarify if I may. Do not turn on the electricity until the tank is full as you could damage the heating element via dry fire.
Good point by Jooby Zat about conductivity. Typically you will pierce the teflon tape on the threads when tightening. Don't over wrap the tape. Two to three wraps should be fine.
Good video. Very clear.
It would also be a good idea to check the dip tube while you're at it. Best to disassemble both on an older heater and use them to buy proper length at store.
It would be a good idea to check the draw on the flue to make sure there is good venting of fumes.
great tip about the power as you're right, you could "dry fire" it and ruin the heating elements. Dip tube inspections depending on how the plumber originally installed the piping above the tank could be an easy task or a pain in the butt like how mine was setup. YMMV.
Thank you! Excellently informative and so well presented !
glad you found the video helpful!
This is very interesting. Why don't we hear more about these sacrificial rods since water heaters cost so much to replace?
Just answered your own question. :)
Just had an inspector come through who said heater units used to come with rods all the time and then they stopped coming with them because it made the water heaters last too long.
not entirely true. All heaters still come with anode rods but there is a lack of education for consumers and thus if it doesn't leak and makes hot water most people don't think about it until it's too late.
You are a great teacher ❤🙂
Thanks!
first of all, great video. it was very helpful, informative, and easy to understand. now my question that led me here: will changing this rod out help the rotten egg smell coming out of my hot water?
You should flush the tank out completely and consider changing the type of material the rod is made from. If you're running magnesium then try using an aluminum rod.
Got it. Thanks a lot!
Same problem but my water heater is probably 30 years old and have never changed the rod. Only noticed the smell recently. Cold water doesn't smell so I guess it's the water heater.
Thanks for sharing the video .
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video!, very informative and well explained. Thank you so much
(from Berlin, Germany)
Ivos Piacentini Hello from Canada! Thanks for watching, glad you found it useful.
clear, concise, professionally done.
Nice; thanks.
+Mike Walker glad you liked the vid. Thank you for watching!
This video is so helpful! Thank you for taking the time to film the step by step info- it makes me feel more confident to face my intimidating gas water heater. I feel like the thing is alive- after watching your video, I'm ready. Will you be making your own video of draining the heater?
Strange that I didn't see your comments from 6 months ago. My bad. I could do a video if you need me to :). Just let me know.
+piercedasian I am not going to pass up the opportunity to see another wonderful how to video -so if you are up to making another video- I am up for asking for one. So please, if you will, make another video. I feel it would be helpful for ignoramuses like myself.
+V totheJade okay consider it done. I won't be able to get it up for about a week is that okay?
+piercedasian There is no need to ask if its okay as you are the one doing me a favor. I await your video with anticipation, popcorn, and a notepad to take notes.
sounds good. Got tied up this week with other tasks. I haven't forgotten about you.
Great video nice presentation. So as not to screw up your temperature setting - setting the gas valve control on pilot is a much more straightforward approach instead of messing with the temperature dial
true that. I will have to consider that the next time I do my anode replacement. Thanks for sharing that tip.
Nice video...I know it might be difficult bit I'd love to see some examples of when to change vs when to leave it go for longer. like when is it time to replace one
I considered doing a video like that but finding concrete examples of one that is good vs. maybe good is a bit challenging. In our locality, we typically will pull rods every 5 years and given how hard the water is and how inexpensive an anode rod is that I just replace it (unless the old rod really looks like its new but usually it doesn't). If you have soft water then it is advisable to inspect/replace the rod every 3 years for good measure. The rod in this video is actually 15 years old and has NEVER been replaced and yet much of it is still quite intact. We ended up changing it anyways b/c I'd spend more time and gas to return it than to just install it. I know it doesn't answer your question but it gives you a sense of my inspect/replace interval that I follow now.
Great video - not many actually show the actual removal of the rod on video (on other videos they would've already removed the rod). This is good because folks need to see what it actually takes to remove one of these rods. Question. Why didn't you use a magnesium rod? I've read that magnesium rods are better than aluminum because of potential health issues. I just replaced my 16 yr. old water heater and I am debating whether or not to remove the aluminum rod and replace with a magnesium rod.
Thanks
@ Methodical2 - glad you liked the video. Yes most vids don't show the "act of doing" which drives me batty. What's the point of the video if you can't see what is being performed? Magnesium/vs. aluminum. Doesn't make much difference since you're not drinking the water. The type of metal anode you use is dependent on water conditions in your specific area. Magnesium supposedly has the highest protection but can stink up the water in the process b/c of how it can react with your local water. I guess the short answer is go to your local plumbing supply house and see what they stock and get their suggestion as pro plumbers there would be buying large quantities of whatever material works best in your area.
Good luck!
Yeah, I figured that's what the difference is. I probably will just stick with the aluminum. We've had no funky water for close to 16 years.
Take care
Thanks for watching!
You should always make sure the new rod is the same length as the removed one.. If not, it can bore into the base of the tank and it can lead to an explosion when returned to service..
That is useful advice though I'm not sure if I've seen a rod so long for a standard size water tank. I mean the intuitive logic would be to insert the rod and if it feels like its hitting the bottom of the tank to rethink installing it since it would be fairly obvious that it doesn't fit right.
thanks for the Video!
You bet!
Very well done and detailed! Thanks for sharing! Just changed mine yesterday
that's awesome news. May your water heater live a long long long life because of your care.
You rock bro! Clear and concise
Good video, short and precise.
Glad it was helpful!
My tank is a Rheem and was just installed $2K. It is BOTH gas and electric. I wish you had done this to a much newer water heater so it would be more similar to what is now on the market.
That is interesting! A gas AND electric heater? I can't say that I've seen one in my locality. If I had access to one of these new fancy tanks I'd so do a vid showing how its done :)
@@piercedasian I should have worded that better. It's natural gas but has a motor on top that runs on electricity. Some sort of a hybrid.
thank you for your video , well explained and nicely done.
Glad it was helpful!
Well done, sir. But was the tape put on in the right direction? Seemed not.
lol, you're not the first person to say that and yes I did put it on backwards but if the tape is thin enough and doesn't bunch up on the threads then technically either direction is fine. Obviously going the right way prevents bunching of the end when threading in but in my case the tape was so thin that it was a moot point.
Should you turn off the water supply valve to the heater before you drain out some of the water prior to changing the rod?
Yes you absolutely should do that. I did mention that in the vid. Never work on plumbing without verifying that you've shut the water supply off.
Excellent and clearly produced overview
thanks!
Are you worried that the teflon tape might insulate the anode rod from the rest of the system? I would thiink you'd want to assure elecrtic continuity from steel tank to anode rod to allow good electron flow from anode to cathode. I suppose you could check for zero resistance between anode and tank.
nope, b/c I don't put a thick amount of the tape on and I normally test the anode for conductivity (silly me totally didn't show that in the video). I've done the anode change out so many times that I've never encountered a situation where it didn't have conductivity.
The teflon may have insulated the anode from the tank. Gotta use conductive paste.
Please tell Superman of the laughter he created if you haven't already
It is real important to apply Teflon tape clockwise.
Yes, thanks for pointing that out. I lucked out when I installed my rod that the tape didn't actually bunch up at all but I noticed my minor mistake AFTER I watched my own vid.
NICE video. I use SOFT WATER from Culligan, this is a nightmare. I have replaced the 3rd water tank now , until my plumber he remind me about to replace the Aluminium zink anode rode (every 2 years) , because Culligan soft water has a lot of salt and damaged my hot water tank every 5 years. I did replace the 3rd hot water tank, and so same as my other friends that using same soft water from Culligan.
you're most welcome. Wow 3rd tank already? Tanks in our neck of the woods typically go for at least 15 years or longer. I will keep that in mind when I decide to go with soft water...
I have decided to remove the Culligan , and my old house without soft water, the water tank already over 25 years still good !
This was a very informative video. It was full of useful tips.
Glad you liked it!
Remove the areators on faucet before bleeding air from lines to preventing them from clogging up with sediment
Good suggestion! Thanks!
That was an awesome how to video! Very well done! If I have to cut the rod, just use a hacksaw & that’s it?
That is correct
You got lucky. I tried to remove the anode on a few but could never remove it. I used breaker bar and trying to hold tank but it was rust in. I'm not on city water. I think I would have to do it at the first year and maybe it would come out
wow that's crazy. I know some folks use an impact gun to get them out. I haven't tried that myself but if it is so rusted that its seized then I'd be worried that using an impact driver to get it out would result in cracking of the tank around the bung in which the rod is screwed into.
They should make the anode pipe much narrower then the threaded fitting. Or the fitting much wider then the pipe. You probably scraped off a large amount of the corrosion into the tank as you pulled it out since the pipe is only slightly narrower then the threaded hole its got to come out of.
vqfive yeah I get what you mean but the reality is that even if some of the junk fell into the tank that it could probably be flushed out from the bottom tank drain or it will simply just make its way through the hot water system and pop out and go down the drain (or plug your aerators).
Thanks for posting! When wrapping the plumbers tape, is it necessary to leave some thread exposed? I heard the anode rod needs to be conductive with the tank.
you could but when I tested my anode for electrical connectivity with the steel tank I got continuity so I know I'm "electrically bonded".
piercedasian
Hi great video.
the anode rod could be isolated and it's the water that's bonding the metal Tink and The anode rod together. But I'm pretty sure that's not your case as Teflon tape will rip and tear has a threads on.
Again great video very informative not too many people know to look at this thing and to maintain it
The PTFE tape is not a sealant for a pipe threadded joint, it acts to let the pipe and fitting slide past each other to allow the threads to make the metal to metal seal. When the threads bite in when sealing, they will cut through the PTFE and bond the anode to the tank. Ideally the installer should not coat or wrap the last 2-3 threads to prevent the tape or dope from getting inside the pipe or tank.
Nice clear explanation. Well done.
Glad it was helpful!