Replacing the Blown Master Cylinder | 1988 Volvo 740 (with ABS)
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- Replacing a brake master cylinder on a 1988 Volvo 740 with ABS. Here's a link to the brake bleeding procedure;
www.matthewsvo...
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Nice to see you're able to produce some content for us during your busy days, Sledge. Highly appreciated 👌🏼😀
Thanks Frank! Appreciate you tuning in 👍
Nice one. I think this is where i've gone wrong with my car as I haven't done a bench bleed when i replaced the MC. I have to repeat the process again. Hope all is good with you all three and yes, the baby does take some free time!
Ah it could be, on some cars it's needed because the air gets trapped due to the angle of the master when it's on the car 🥴
The white check valve from the large vacuum hose going between the servo and the intake manifold can be a source of air leaks. If it's never been replaced, now's the time.
On the older 240s, the master cylinder (MC) doesn't have that bracket. I believe it was introduced on the 740 / 760 cars to reduce the amount of flex transmitted to the MC under severe braking.
Ahhh that's interesting! Thanks 🙂
Try the pedal firmness with the servo exhausted that will give you an accurate picture as such if the pedal is a bit spongey try clamping off individual brake hoses to see if it improves if I fit a master cyl I bleed it on the car before bleeding the rest of the circuit I get an assistant to push and hold the pedal down whilst I open a brake pipe connection on the master and then close it before moving onto the next one repeating until at the least a decent pedal is obtained
When cleaning the reservoir I like to remove all traces of moisture with methylated spirits.... Then either leave to fully dry for several hours or blow out with compressed air.
Hope you rinsed all the fluid spillage, you've already got enough corrosion issues.
I normally don't like doing brake work too much, mostly because EVERYTHING corrodes and gets stuck with the brake fluid eating into it but you did a great job on this one!
As a piece of advice, something I've learned myself from a proper mechanic: you can clean up spilled brake fluid really easily by rinsing it with enough water. Brake fluid is hydroscopic (which we normally don't like) and thus will want to attach itself to water. If you rinse spills with water it will clean up nicely. Of course be careful cleaning up large puddles of it, nature doesn't like the stuff either!
Thanks! Appreciate the tip, that's good to know and will be a lot cheaper than using copious amounts of brake cleaner 😄
Well done. Nice job. I find when reusing old parts, where appropriate, the dish washer works a dream! ;)
Thanks 🙂
Well done! Had a similar bracket on the master cylinder in my 1986 740, non ABS. The intake hose was rubbing against it on my car. Removed the bracket to avoid damage. Couldn't observe any reason for what purpose it serves, but I'm sure there's a reason. Doubt the engineers came up with it for laughs and giggles.
Haha yeah, hopefully someone comments what it is
Always start from the longest distans from the master cylinder.
Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front and last Left Front. Then you do it right way.
That's what I thought, but for these ABS cars they say the front first for some reason 🤷🏻♂️
@@Involvod yes I heard that to. But I only use longest distans from master cylinder first. And that works great all time even on ABS. :)
Job well done as usual Sledge.
Thanks 👍
Very quick and clean episode. Thanks buddy. Was super happy to see a new episode in my feed this afternoon! Lucky me. That garage is working out fantastic. Oh, don't worry about spraying that old Harbor Freight Ni-Cad drill. Yikes. Couldn't wait til mine died. Primitive thing. Makita is a different story. : )
Thanks! Would love a Makita drill, got the angle grinder and torch and they are great kit!
Oh man fairly straightforward job! Nice one. Great to see how much content you're putting out lately!
Thanks Chief!
Nice job!! Watching your videos gives me confidence to have a go with some of my own projects but this looks too advanced for me yet, brakes scare me. I really admire your abilities and appreciate the content!
So old brake lines can also cause a spongy feel. I like the traditional way of bleeding with 2 people. I never get good pedal feel use vacuums and such it's weird. Brake feel can be sooo frustrating.
Thanks man, I feel like pedal bleeding the old master last year might have contributed to it's demise, but I might give it a go here especially as it's a new one
Trabalho pesado esse aí,fiz do meu vw Santana, troquei o cilindro mestre e o hidrovacuo de freio
Again another great video think my master cylinder needs a look at where did you pick up your kit from , will be waiting for the ac video keep them coming 👌👍
Thanks 👍 I got it from Skandix
I’ve got that brake pedal whoosh on all of my cars and take no notice of it (been there 6years on my E class).
Thanks 🙂
Good job! That mystery bracket started to interest me too, I hope someone will tell us what it is. My own 700 series have only had non-abs master cylinders, which are different. It's a bad thing that the reservoir is not available new… Might be a good idea to buy a second-hand reservoir/master cylinder as a spare…
Yeah I agree, they get so much grime inside and it's difficult to clean it all out!
Thanks
I like the sound of rebuild 😉
You know loads more than I do I'm sure. But don't you usually bleed the rear brakes first before the front ones? Doing the brakes furthest away from the servo.
Or did I misunderstand what you did?
Usually, but on certain ABS models it's the front first for some reason 😀
Very excited for the next video on the AC that was my next job on my old 240 interested to see how its done, out of interest do you have any volvos from 1983 or before?
Sadly not, would love one though!
@@Involvod same here haha
Great video!! Just wondering if the whoosh could be the brake booster? I had to replace mine once. Not hard except to snake in under the dash LoL
Thanks 🙂 Could be, did you have the same symptoms or did your pedal go too firm?
@@Involvod it was a few years ago and I honestly don't remember for sure, but I believe the symptoms for that the pedal with catch but then gradually go down
coincidently I just changed the front calipers discs and pads on my new 940 today (why didn't I order back plates!?!) after bleeding all round the car brakes work ok but pedal almost all the way down, and that huffing sound is audible, typically, the car is booked for a trip to france next week.
Ah damn, I hope you manage to get it sorted in time. Did you use the pedal to bleed it or a bleeder tool?
In my experience the huffing sound is normal when you push the pedal down fast when it's not "at pressure", in other words, when the brakes aren't pressed down for a while and you start pushing the brake pedal a couple of times in a row. It happens on modern cars, too.
@@Involvod pedal, ummed and aahh at the motor factors the other day at the idea of getting a gunson easy bleed but decided not to bother.
@@martij30 mmm fair enough, the brakes work ok but still need bedding in I guess, will probably bleed them again in a few days
@@mikestinyshedofdreams hopefully there's just a little bit of air somewhere it can be a right pain getting it all out. Worst case the master started to fail as old ones don't like a pedal bleed because of the crud build up in them, the piston travels too far where it normally wouldn't go, not sure if you knew about it. That's why I bought this air bleeder thing even though I prefer using the pedal
Would this procedure (bench bleeding and brake bleeding procedure) be the same on a 91 240 with ABS?
I'm not too sure to be honest as they changed the procedure (it can be totally opposite) depending on model year.
you have AC?! 🤯🤯
Crazy right! 😄 And for 2 sweaty summers never had it working. Now we can finally get to it
👍👊
I just replaced my entire AC system on my 940 because everything broke when i went to change O rings
Damn, I noticed every o-ring I removed was crusty so I'm hoping the other components I haven't disturbed will be okay, I don't really want to replace every o-ring as there seems to be about 100 of them and some are surely hard to access 😬
@@Involvod I totally understand :) in my experience the compressor fittings tend to break off so my tip is to have the system filled with UV dye before breaking the compressor like i did😅 Fortunately there are no O-rings under the dash