How tight should your climbing shoes be?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
- Your shoe size can dramatically affect your climbing performance if they are too big or too small. This video walks you through considerations for making sure your shoe fits perfectly.
0:00 Intro
0:38 Science behind shoes that are too small
1:48 General Shoe Fit Overview
3:05 Shoe Padding Changes Fit
3:50 Trad and Multi-Pitch Fit
4:47 Fit for Edging
5:36 Other considerations
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Every shoe brand fits differently - Mad Rock, for example, fits bigger than my street shoes, which is pretty crazy. What shoe have you found fits you best?
I’ve found that evolv shamans in my street size fit my feet perfectly.
A good tight fit, with toes crimped up, and slight pressure on the sides of my feet. But I can walk in them
I had Mad Rock EUR 43, while wearing EUR 43 Streetshoes. I was super surprised too. Now I have La Sportiva EUR 41, which are tighter than the Mad Rock 43, but still fit somewhat.
Wishing I watched this video before purchasing my first shoes, I got the exact same model that you did for your first climbing shoes, but its ok that means I'm at the right path. Thanks for doing this video.
That bouldering fall advice was dope..! thanks a lot
I just bought my first shoes after getting into climbing with rental shoes some time ago. The lady at the shop also told me, usually you would go 1-2 sizes down and she gave me a lot of different shoes in different sizes of different brands to try on, and the pain I felt in those even only 0,5 smaller than usual shoes was unbearably for me. Like, I couldn't imagine myself climbing when there was pain in my feet even sitting down. I chose a pair that's the size of my usual day to day shoes because that one felt like it held my foot nicely in place without movement inside the shoe but also without the pain of too small shoes. So I practicaly didn't follow everyones advice, but after a few more visits in the gym I still feel like it was the right decision because I want to have fun and not pain. The shoes still fit great and I feel like I can improve and benefit of them better because I feel what's underneath my feet instead of the pain of too tight shoes being in the way of that sensation. I might decide differently on my 2nd pair in the future but for now as a beginner, even if I don't know much about climbing yet, I think this are the perfect first pair of shoes to get hooked into climbing and improve myself.
I done the exact same thing as you but unfortunately after climbing twice a week for 1-2 months, the shoes stretched out and we're unusable to climb is due to so much dead space and feeling baggy. It was £100 down the drain.
I got another pair 1 size down from my street size and after 1-2 months of climbing they now fit perfectly to my feet.
@@G-Doyle May i ask what brand and model did you buy? Usually leather shoes tend to stretch this much, and synthetic shoes dont.
@@bondjam8 Tenaya Oasi
I did the same thing and my shoes became useless after a week
I agree i had a guy at a shop try and tell me my feet should be in constant pain or the shoes aren’t the right size. Needless to say i left that shop. I ended up with a size that fits snug with a slight toe curl but it’s still comfortable to wear for a substantial amount of time. I feel i have plenty of power and control. I wear Tenaya Mundaka’s and they are actually really comfortable despite being fairly aggressive and also fit snug but not painfully tight.
Steez Thanks so much for your comment! I’m glad that you got a pair that fits you well and feel relatively comfortable. That is gold when you figure out the right size and shoe. I haven’t tried those shoes before and they look up my alley. Besides comfort, how do you like them?
@@SendEdition They are awesome. I think they're best for bouldering or indoor belaying/top roping. They fit like a sock with the upper and the strap system is excellent. They are a very soft shoe with the split mid sole but the toebox sole has some stiffness to it so edging is good. they use xsgrip so theyre definitely grippy. the rubber toe patch is great for toe hooks but it's soft enough to not cause hot spots. heel is good as well, nothing bad or crazy about it but the edge of it is glued under the rand so it wont peel off. so they perform well. the fit and comfort while still having awesome performance is what makes me love them. i wont even consider another shoe ATM that's how comfortable and good they are. La Sportivas, Scarpas, and Evolves all hurt my feet in their aggressive models. That's partially because i have a wide but low volume forefoot with Morton's toe and a narrow heel so i am tough to fit. Tenayas have been the only shoe out of 10 or more i tried that suited me and i have multiple models.
I usually wear the La Sportiva Katana size 11. Normal street shoes are 12-13. But that doesn't transfer to other brands or even models, since they can be sized very differently. Most shoes, especially when they use leather, give a little, so it is OK to feel discomfort to a little pain when wearing them in. Most impostantly they should just fit proper, so try a lot of them in a lot of different sizes. Bouldering shoes normally have more downturn for the overhang techniques (hooking) but they are also more flexible for smearing on slabs, so they fit very snug and feel like a very stiff sock. They can be quite comfortable whne wore in, even if they are fairly thight. Also keep in mind you don't need to wear boulder shoes for a long time. Other shoes more specific for big vertical walls tend to be stiffer and don't give a lot, and are therefor a bit more uncomfortable, when choosen too thight. Also they are worn much longer on multi pitch walls. I'd suggest starting with a not too tight fit when you are starting climbing, since a super thight shoe will not give you much advantage if your technique is still bad, and it can seriously ruin your fun when you are in constant pain everytime you put them on. Believe me, I made that mistake. You can always go tighter with your next shoe when leveling up.
Super helpful because everyone is saying “I fit into a 4 size smaller shoe”. Ridic. I like your approach.
I was away from climbing forever, but got back into it this year and I think the sizing now is already a little small. I think the old school lasts they used were made more for socks, so if you went barefoot in your shoes, you had to size down.
Also, down turn is more and more popular and sizing down with downturn is kind of agony.
I just bought my first climbing shoes. Black Diamond. I wear an 11.5 US in street shoes (Adidas, New Balance, etc) but i ignored all advice and got the BD's in a size 12. Glad i did. I couldnt imagine fitting my foot in an 11 in those
I've found that Black Diamond fit pretty true to size.
Great video thanks 🙏
I just bought the tenaya oasi and have downsized 1 shoe size and they fit lovely to be honest. Toes slightly curled at the end and toe in the right place. Just worried they will stretch out and loose that nice fit. Should I have gone another half a size down ?
I really need helpppp. Is it OK that all my toes are bended in the shoe? And my big toe really hurts. But at the store they told me as much as it is smaller its better and said that the shoe that I bought is OK. As I said it hurts but I don't know if it is too much or normal
I wear a size 10.5 in normal shoes, but found that with climbing shoes I require a size 11.5 - 12 to even fit my foot into the shoe. This was consistent across 2 brands of climbing shoe, and about 4 styles.
this video is VERY is accurate until the part where she says that flatter shoes are better for longer sessions, NOW this is a very niche scenario but I'm going to add my 2 scents anyways. My foot has a naturally high arch, I find that aggressive shoes are better in almost every way for me(other than crack climbing).
Most of the time in in comfy rock shoes. But every now and then its good to have a super tight aggressive pair for steep sport
Also the Force Vs were my favourite shoe ever. I need to get those resoled 😅
my problem is that my shows (shaman) the left foot fits perfectly, doesn't hurt. But the right foot, my index toe or what your would call it, the joint closest to the foot hurts immensely and I don't know what to do about it.
I bought my first shoes, and I'm not sure if they fit right. My toes touch the end, but there's a lot of fabric bunched up on the top when I velcro them tight. Also, sometimes when I'm on my toe, I can feel space behind my heel in the shoe. But when I tried them at the store, the other shoes felt too tight. Any clues?
Great question! Usually if there is space in the heel, that means that your shoes are too big and you could try going a size smaller. The material bunching at the top could also mean that the shoes are too wide - do you have space on the sides of your feet as well? Some climbers have wide/thin feet so the sides of their feet are snug but their is extra space between the top of the foot and the top of the shoe. Since you are having both of these problems, it might be worth trying a more narrow shoe or trying different brands to see which one matches your foot shape the most. Hope this helps!
i just bought climbing shoes size 9 my shoe size is 7 1/2 an my toes curl a little but i was told i need to break them in to determine if they are to small is this true i have 3 blisters but i did a long session
Blisters suck! It does take a little bit to break shoes in (some shoes more than others) but it was much easier for me to recognize that on my third pair of shoes since I had some experience.
any advise on this; I got Madrock Flash 2.0s they fit perfect, toes touch the tip, heel cups perfectly, however the arch is a bit low causing air to be there and when I take a step (move on a boulder, land) they let the air out and a fart noise occurs. I've told myself that they'll break in and form to my foot better, but it's been some time and this small annoyance has yet to resolve. I've considered using a blow dryer to reform the arch, but I'd like some expert opinions before heating up my shoe. Thanks in advance to anyone who chimes in!
Edit: When my foot is at rest (IE: leg crossed over the other, and other normal tendencies) they feel perfect as well, it's only during movement when a little air makes it's way in and squeezes itself out.
That is an interesting occurrence. I haven’t worn those shoes before but because the shoes have a moderate downturn, I’m inclined to believe the size may be slightly too big. The reason I’m thinking that is because with agressive shoes, your feet should be in forced into an arched position, which is only possible when the size is smaller and pushing your toes and heels into the ends, not just touching both sides. Since they are moderate instead of aggressive, this would be less extreme but still necessary. If I were in your position, I’d consider trying a size down and depending on where you got your shoes, you may be able to return the shoes that you’ve been using if they are, in fact, too big. Hope this helps!
@@SendEdition Thanks! I did my first bouldering session with them and they felt great regardless of the excess space. When I talked about the shoes fitting, I didn’t dive in to say that they do scrunch my toes into that moderate downturn you mentioned. Maybe sizing down and breaking in would help, however I’ll leave that for the next pair I buy, know I know hah. As for my thoughts on the shoes from the first session, they feel more comfortable in the sense that I feel more steady on my feet when on boulders, I can trust them more. They have nice rubber on the paws and really good rubber cupping the heel; making heel hooks feel safer to try. Thanks for your reply, I did not take a blow dryer to the shoes, I think they’ll fit more, the more I climb.
Should my toes be curled at the end of a fairly flat shoe or is that to tight? I have one size down from my street size. Scarpa Origins.
Some toe curl is ideal for engaging your toes while in your climbing shoes, no matter what type of shoe you have - but it shouldn’t be painful. It will be uncomfortable though
I bought a pair of 5.10 dragons, my normal shoe size is uk 8 and I bought the 5.10s in a size 8 too. The shoe is so tight and so painful to wear. Should they stretch more as I do more sessions or should I try sell them for a bigger pair? My rental shoes were size 41.5 EU and these are a 42 EU and never had issues with rental pair. Should I push through the pain?
In the same position myself! Same size too. I suspect the sizing is off looking at other videos there advice to either go street size or size up with 5.10s
I think you know now, but they always hurt in the beginning. When they don't hurt in the beginning they will end up being too big, because they stretch a lot. I bought scrapa instinct vs, 40 EU and my street shoes are 43 EU. Im on the higher end tho. When you first start out you should never go so many sizes down.
I have 5.10 kirigami’s and they fit crazy small. My normal size is about 44.5, but when I bought 5.10s in 46 I got blisters and could barely walk on them. I’ve returned those for size 46.66 which are still very tight but much more bearable
@@Excaty01so one size down is fine?
I bought a small shoe and now I am suffering, do you recommend something for making bigger or do you recommend me to sell this one? Thanks
It depends on what the shoe is made of and how small it is - leather stretches up to a size bigger. However, if it’s synthetic and it’s small enough that you don’t want to wear them and thus avoid climbing, then yes - return or sell.
sell them
Is it normal that my feet hurt when I first put them on and after 5 minutes they feel okay ?
If the hurt you get from your shoes prevents you from climbing, then I'd consider getting a different pair of shoes or a size bigger. Usually, the pain doesn't go away in 5 minutes if the shoes are too small but the more you climb in them the more tolerant of the shoes you'll become.
With that being said, my feet are pretty uncomfortable when I first put my shoes on and it takes a few minutes for them to acclimate to the small space and small downturn that I get with my Madrock Drones LV. Also, if I leave them on too long, my feet also start to hurt but that's just because my feet swell and need a break.
I got shoes in my size and it is crushing my toes uncomfortably. Definitely taking a size or half up and we’ll see.
In my experience shoes stretch quite a bit compared with a new condition. I bought pythons 1 size down after a month they felt comfortable and after 2 they even started to slip a bit at heel hooks.
The first bouldering shoes I bought where a tight comfortable fit when bought new and after a few months they were way too big
thats bc u bought pythons
I just bought my first pair of climbing shoes. I wear a size 10.5 street shoe and I got a size 10 climber shoe. My toes really don't hurt but my heels are hurting, is that normal?
It sounds like the shape of your heel doesn’t quite fit the shape of the shoe heel - I’ve actually returned my shoes that gave me heel pain. It took a lot of searching to find the right brand that fit my heel shape. I hope this helps and good luck with finding the right shoe!
Fun part i normally got 38 (eu) so i thought huh i will order 37 and 37,5 but i ended up with 40 🤣 wtf!
😍😍😍😊
Thanks :)
Shoes should be "uncomfortably tight but not painful"
I think you’re on the right track :)
The rentals at my gym have convinced me that it's all made up. My US shoes size fits well. But those same shoes are labeled with 2 sizes bigger than my EU shoe size.
Your eye line👀 is really weird in this video 😅😅 sorry! But good shoe info.
Is it?
💥💥💥👏👏👏🐬🐬🐬💥💥💥💃🏻💃🏻🐶
Why use two cameras for the video? Very annoying half the time you're just looking the wrong way.
Ok Nolan
What if my achilles part of me foot is in a lot of pain from the tightness from a brand new shoe