Climbing shoes have a SECRET...
Вставка
- Опубліковано 18 сер 2020
- Climbing shoes provide superhuman abilities, but how much help is too much? Let's discover the secret purpose of the humble climbing shoe...
- - -
Sources:
Magnus Midtbø - • What CLIMBING SHOES Sh...
Adam Ondra - • Adam Ondra #17: The Al...
REI - • REI Presents: Brothers... , • How to Choose Climbing...
Bouldering Vlog - • Jain Kim shows perfect...
Best Gear Lab - • Video
Arc'teryx - • Arc'teryx Presents: Ba...
Best Of Climbing - • Video
TAKEHOLD - • The Goods | How To Fit...
USA Climbing - • 2019 USA Climbing: Com...
Eric Karlsson Bouldering - • Climbing On A Masterpiece
REEL ROCK - • La Dura Complete: The ...
Olympic - • Rio Replay: Women's In...
Giant Rock - • Stoney Point: Rock Cli...
Red Bull - • First Female Rock Clim...
The New York Times - • What if He Falls? The ...
Whistle - • 19-Year-Old Could Beco...
www.climbingcoopers.com
www.eureka-photo.com
www.gearjunkie.com
www.lasportiva.com
- - -
THANK YOU to my subscribers! If you enjoyed this video or you'd like to get involved I'd love to hear from you.
- - -
Music: Stay by Dog, Monsters by Dog
Copyright © Ben Roper 2020
That was really interesting, it'd be interesting to know when were climbing shoes came into the game and if climbers of the time disliked them.
Totally, great question... maybe I should do a followup?
@@Seektag I'd watch that!
Climbing shoes have always been a part of climbing
For anyone interested, beor ong has a video on the history of climbing shoes
It seems to me that we tend to consider using equipment that will drastically enhance our performance acceptable when the advantage is aimed at fixing a problem that can't be fixed with hard work and is bound to cause a plateau in the performance of any athlete participating in that sport.
Nailed it!
This made me think a little about the sorts of games that are popular in South Korea. While I was out there, the kids all played phone games, and I was always baffled as to why they almost always favoured simple easy to win games. To me good games need to be a challenge, you need to struggle in order to make the achievement worthwhile, much like climbing. When I would boulder, I would spend weeks and even months working on one rout, because the end pay off would be that feeling of achievement. With the kids I used to work with, and in many cases the adults too, I noticed that they needed that same pay off, but they only had 5 minutes of free time to get it. I used to look down on this and think it was lazy, until I realised that modern life there meant you took whatever chance you could to enjoy something, but you needed that win before you had to get back to class or work. It’s something that I think has inspired a whole new kind of gaming.
That was super interesting! Thanks brother!
I've never been interested in a whole bunch of suffering in order to get a supposed pay-off at the end with gaming for example. I just wanna chill and have fun. I see bouldering like that, it's always rather fun, and then there's extra highs. I wouldn't do it if it was like, suffering and not fun until the pay-off arrives. Because I don't think the math works out there. It does for a lot of people due to how the brain often works, we quickly forget all the suffering, and then we forget about how the good feelings only lasted a very short amount of time before starting the cycle again with a whole lot of new suffering, but I'm not that kind of person. I see the would-be cycle, and then I opt out lol. I generally don't see the pay-off as being worth it for a lot of things, so I generally take a different approach if I can (particularly with hobby-like activities).
I actually can't wear most of those expensive climbing shoes. Some brands had a soft enough heel area, but all of the ones that pinches too hard on the heels aggravates my achilles so I rather just go with those cheap shoes that work for me or (if outside, no shoes on easier routes), due to my achilles not being able to take it being crunched up (since i had achilles tendonitis in the past).
Yikes! I wear bottom-shelf shoes too, but that's because A.) I can't afford expensive ones and B.) I'm generally just leaping around, rather than technical climbing!
Have you tried the La Sportiva TestaRossas? I know you just said aggressive pairs are hard on your feet, but if you get the chance let me know if they fit well or not. That was my daily driver for the past 5 months or so.
@@Seektag lmfao the shoes I just mentioned to the OP were in the vid at 2:56. Good taste in shoes and a good selection of vids. Well done my friend :)
@@MPHshoots Amazing
@@MPHshoots I can attest to that, I have had 6 pairs of climbing shoes and Testarossas were a gamechanger for me when it came to comfort/performance ratio. People who say agressive shoes are uncomfortable just havent found the right one, that is a reality I come into contact daily. For example, one of my bouldering shoes, Evolv Phantom, dont really fit me THAT well, they are a bit too tight on the sights and I cant get my toe as curled up as much as I would like, and instead I have a huge amount of pressure on my pinky toe. They are great in overhangs, toehooking and heelhooking, but edging, at least for me, is really shit, and Testarossas are my go-to for that. My friend, on the other hand, that has the same shoe size as me, has it the other way - phantoms fit him extremely well while testarossas are painful - he has a long big toe and narrow foot, while my foot is wide and square. TLDR: Lots of nuance, just try a bunch of them and eventually youll find the one you fall in love with.
PS: Scapra Veloce are also amazing for wider feet, very comfy yet performing well.
But so do other sports require eqipment to make them possible. One example- skiing. Sure you can kinda slide down ackwardly on your feet, but what's the point of that?
Or swimming. Who wants to swim without goggles?
So wonderfully detailed, and this one was funny!
Egon Dugas thanks brother! Glad you enjoyed!
the music is way too loud :(
really good video!!!
I have wide foot. 2 month ago 1st I went rock climbing class. And the teacher just told me to wear those shoes a climb a little. That shoes was narrow as hell. I was bad pain after 7 days in my toes. Climbing shoes are not good for foot 🦶
The secret is that climbing shoes are commercially available and the average gym climber has access to the same shoes that the professionals have!
There are equipment controversies for long distance running and swimming as well, but I'd say that overall climbing has a avoided those kinds of issues with the clothing. It's more around bolting and aid. Historically many of the hardest big walls were considered impossible to free climb (so people would place gear and pull on it for hard sections), but now those routes can be free climbed by sufficiently skilled athletes, and the rope and placed gear is a safety backup. Aid climbing is still an option for the average big wall climber though!
It's worth highlighting that as well as being an alternative to large boots which are more suited to hiking, it could be said that climbing shoes are inspired in part from the practice of wearing "slippers" (or what British people would call "plimsolls") to protect fragile southern Sandstone.
Bro i have no clue what this man just said he sounds like an ai
Hey, i was searching around google whether anyone has thought about these questions and also expressed it on the web!
Anyway i tried to show a link here and youtube didnt warn me and deleted it. Anyway i wanted to say i also do functioinal climbing stuff and was experimenting barefoot and no crashpad climbs! could we connect and i hope we can discuss and collab on ideas in the near future!
Please let me know where should i connect my social media with you all.
If we should abstain from equipment use, what professional sport is pure?
Swimming I guess? There are probably more...
@@Seektag but even then you have goggles and swim caps to help you see and glide better. Also specialized swim jammers, briefs, etc. Definitely an interesting thing to consider
@@rando4221 Right! Shall we start the naked olympics?!
@@Seektag😂 seems to be the only solution. And everything is done with natural, unaltered rocks. additionally, trails must be trodden by foot
@@rando4221 And no chalk!
I love your take on this. It's a very interesting observation you made about how we create tools to better satisfy ourselves in the games that we ourselves created. As much as I love climbing, I prioritize my foot health and I refuse to wear those horrendous shoes 💀💀💀
I'm all in on a completely nude climbing league.
Frosty Bowden Training starts on Monday. Bring your chalk bag.
@@Seektag chalk is aid
The most expensive climbing shoes could never put a beginner on the same level as a pro.
I like your editing
Thanks! I appreciate that
the how about we add some actual hooks at the heel and the upper toe part of the shoe?
Aha yeah it would definitely be interesting to see what could be done
@@Seektag im joking 😄 that would be hax
Considering alot of pro climber fav shoe are the Moccs back in the day (a flat, stiff and comfortable shoe) id say you're objectively wrong. I mean if you gave adam ondra a slightly shittier shoe I would say he would still climb as hard. It's an optimisation if anything; the climber makes the shoe and not the otherway around
You should have watched the whole thing! That's the point I made ;0)
Bros camera quality got me wondering if it he is real or ai
I'm Bing
No tape for crack climbers!!! 🪧
So what's the secret?
What? This applies to every sport. it is disrsctfull to climb without shoes or chalk because of the sweat just to name one reason. also what is a shoe going to do in a comp spring you to the top?
I think it's a rather funny argument to claim it's nasty to climb barefoot when no one thinks twice about handsweat, skin and blood that gets rubbed into the holds on the daily. Just don't lick your fingers before washing your hands. I mean compare it to a swimming pool where alot of people just completely forgo the responsibility to wash themselves before heading into the water and it's way worse since once in the water all that dirt gets mixed around.
I'll be honest, I think this video is a mess for a whole lot of reasons. The biggest of which, it doesn't mention the fact that there are barefoot climbers, and they're really good. there have been barefoot ascents of many incredibly technical, difficult boulders, up through ~V15 (Just look at Charles Albert). Climbing shoes aren't necessary for some climbers, and so your argument that they provide some magical superhuman ability falls flat on its face. I'll agree that they enable a wider variety of climbing routes and styles to be opened up, as I can't imagine anybody being insane enough to try to send a big wall without them, but that's a far cry from magic.
It's also clear you don't really know the big innovations of climbing shoes that have made them better than just a tight rubber sock. Those being tensioned rubber (to create different shapes and force profiles along the footbed), toe and heel rubber (for moves that require the use of something other than the toe box itself), and innovations in closure systems that allow for more comfortable fits that perform just as well as a tighter uncomplicated shoe. We've taken shoes so far from what they were even twenty years ago. This leads to a more diverse set of shoes being sold, generally performing slightly better or at least being more bearable than historic counterparts, which are the real comparison, not bare feet.
As for restrictions on shoe design, there is one and only one requirement from my understanding by IFSC: the shoe has to be commercially available. If you can make it and sell it, you can wear it. This restriction does put an end to most shenanigans though, since you'd probably have to get a large company to agree. For example, I've always joked that a bolt hole shoe would be an optimal design, a shoe that just has a long nail like steel protrusion out the front to stick into bolt holes and make great feet everywhere on an indoor climbing wall, but that design isnt practical because you do have to start with your feet generally on prescribed holds in IFSC, and again, so company would make these commercially. Basically the sport itself limits ideas like that.
You also proposed why there arent sticky crimp gloves. The answer is basically that humans are better than any glove could do, because the thickness added by a glove would drastically reduce the ability to crimp hard. I am putting aside something like a metal exoskeleton for this analysis though, but that would be at the very least a different sport, as we do have aid climbing as an already existent activity that it fairly similar to just having metal helpers.
And No, the reason we have usable climbing shoes is not to make more routes go. It's because climbing would be so unbearably painful if we didn't, that almost nobody would want to do it, stopping the sport in its tracks. we keep adding new gear to our arsenal to push the limits of climbing (just look at the phonebooks people are using to put in massive kneebars on a potential v17, the big Island Sit), however shoes were there from the beginning of the sport, with more thin and light shoes/barefoot climbing being a new activity. I'd argue that the reason we use shoes is because people who started the activity wore shoes, and it's a drastic increase in comfort.
Look, this video made me think, but mostly because I just strongly disagree with a lot of what you said. I don't think you really did much research into the history of shoes in climbing, the innovation of them, or the alternatives to them that are modernly used.
I think you've massively over estimated the seriousness of this video. No I'm not a pro climber or a climbing historian... It was just a quick reaction to a fun conversation I had at climbing one day
@@Seektag That's fair, not everything has to be an incredibly well researched content piece. Maybe my expectations were a bit higher than they should have been, given no prior knowledge of your channel.
I think you might be right, maybe it's not for you! Really liked finding out that some people can climb at high level with bare feet though... Wish I had known about that when I made this
Charles Albert that is all
so wait, what is the secret?
Depending on your view the secret is either that they allow you to climb stuff you could never climb withoutthem, or that they actually change the whole sport of climbing for the better because they permit more variety and therefore actually increase challenge
Getting more views
There are some videos of some people climbing skyscrapers barefoot. But climbing nude you say...
Aha let's do this!
I'd like to see a former ballet dancer try climbing barefoot. They strength train their feet 4 hours a week
Or someone with extremely dextrous feet
Ballet shoes are designed with the same principles though, scrunching your toes together to provide a more stable surface to apply pressure through. In fact if you compare the feet of a ballet dancer and climber they would usually look equally mangled unless they take very good care of themselves. I used to also think I had to downsize my climbing shoes alot but I've realized that a more relaxed fit will actually improve both my ability and strength instead.
So you're saying climbing shoes are aid.
Click bait thumbnail...
The thumbnail states the opinion that the video examines
There is NO reason that I can see to destroy your feet with climbing shoes if you're not a professional or an extreme tryhard. People have been climbing barefoot for millennia and the only reason they don't do it anymore is weakened feet from modern life and supportive shoes.
I wanna start climbing with Vibram FiveFingers or some Sock - Shoes like Skinners. That's so much more appealing to me. Feel the climb with my feet and use toe strength just like you use finger strength. Should be so much fun!
Good luck on those small chips. smearing might be fine though.
Why does bro look AI generated
Bro is well lit and nervous af
this is pointless because in every sport there is equipment that facilitates and improves performance... that's why soccer players don't play barefoot on the grass, for example?