Thanks for your input, but that was already the plan... I've been an electrician and Brian was one for 35 years, so we know what we're doing with the electrical installation. :)
@16:19 Train! I may put you guys building SV Lynx beside my N scale layout with a commuter running by. I need a prius and a 4runner for parking outside the lot. LOL when you get done I can put you in the port area.😆
Great to see progess of your boat. I have been wondering for some time how you were going to power the stand alone electric motor, cables or solid bus bar given the current requirements. Are you intending to use copper or aluminium/alloy both have benifets and disadvantages (cost / wieght / conductivity)?
Aluminum. The only disadvantage is thst it takes a thicker bar to carry the same amperage, but in the floor web we have plenty of space and they will still be lighter and less expensive than copper bus bars. We will be putting in a 30% buffer to make sure they can carry a worst case scenario load. So if everything is running at maximum and that would pull 600 amps, the bus bars will be rated for 900 smps.
hi well I see its still standing that's such a relief, I would still like to see a little more structure going in to supporting those tall bulkheads before I stop stressing lol, quick question....ive noticed on other boat building projects Duracell project, Matt and Jessica channel and others ....they all make use of metal grooved rollers to squeeze out air pockets to ensure against delamination when laying up fibreglass, do you do this off camera? as I've noticed you just press it on with your fingers. I'm no expert in fibreglass I just noticed that both of them do this....they are perfectionist though and their method may be over kill as far as I know, but if it is a crucial step......... sorry again if I came across a bit of a troll last week. PS I've liked and subscribed
We use metal rollers at times, but when we put down a double layer wet out on the table, we already rolled out any bubbles and when we apply those two layers to the panel, we push out any bubbles with our fingers which has been working out well with no voids after it sets up. However, we will use the rollers at times as well.
We do, at times. But there is nothing magic about a roller. It just pushes bubbles to the edge and evens out epoxy. It also removes excess resin. This can be accomplished with anything that applies pressure and moves towards the edges. When we pre-wet out two layers, we already even out and remove excess resin, so all we need to do after that is smooth out any bubbles.
@@SailingSVLynx I can see a lot of voids just from the video. White paces, air gaps. Especially with biax glass you should use steel roller properly othervise you will get easy delamination. I used to be proffesional composite boatbuilder ...
@petrpodobsky7005 I don't know what you think you are seeing in the video, but there are no voids or air gaps. Make sure you aren't looking at the peel ply.
@@SailingSVLynx Believe me I´m able to see the difference. I do not want to make you angry. Just would like to see the better product. Ideally you shouldn´t see any white fiber in the fiberglass and it should be sucked to the surface. To achieve this it takes a lot of work with the steel roller unfortunetelly and other circumstaces like right amount of resin and right resin viscosity.
They come from a company called Advanced Materials Solutions, in South Africa and area a PVC foam with layers of fiberglass vacuum bagged on at the factory and then waterjet cut.
@@SailingSVLynx was that included in the delivery from schionning or did you choose them to make them yourselves? BTW, I envy you so much. I really want to build such a boat myself. But 400k and 10000 hours is too much unfortunately. I am 55 so I will finish it around 83 I guess 😃
@@dagragnarklstad2400 Thanks, but you're right, it is a lot of work but we just keep our eye on the ball and keep going. As for the 10000 hours, you would need help. And yes, all the precut foam parts are included in the kit.
I really enjoy your build, but I have a request/suggestion. Please explain the action you intend to take, then perform that part of the build. Three, four and five statements of your intended action, then two or three statements after you have done the work, is a bit too much. Thank you.
@@normanboyes4983 Understood, but in these cases there is significant overkill. Tell what is intended and how it is planned to to be done, once. Show progress as itthe task is accomplished. Show the finished product.
Very helpful when you mix in the images of the plans as you are describing...Seems like you are gaining momentum on the build! Well done.
Yes, we are picking up some momentum now that the hardest jobs are completed.
you're doing really well folks! I'm sure it's feeling more and more rewarding. 🙂
Yes, we're even more motivated to go work on the boat!
Great progress and so good to see you complete systems thinking for the complete boat ❤
Thanks, Grant.
Great work! I'm always so impressed by your 3D sketches showing exact what you do and where on the boat.
Thank you very much!
Your so lucky to have all the crew help ❤
We agree, we couldn't do it without them.
Superb the more I watch the more I like. Great progress to well done.
Thanks 👍
I really love watching you guys build SV Lynx every Saturday morning with my coffee
We're glad you are entertained!
Racing ahead.😀👍
Progress is good!
Taking shape fast
Yeah, it's nice to be working on this part where it is all being assembled.
For your electricals pre-fit PVC tubing with pull-throughs to use for your wiring. They can be built into your bridge deck structure.
Thanks for your input, but that was already the plan... I've been an electrician and Brian was one for 35 years, so we know what we're doing with the electrical installation. :)
@16:19 Train! I may put you guys building SV Lynx beside my N scale layout with a commuter running by. I need a prius and a 4runner for parking outside the lot. LOL when you get done I can put you in the port area.😆
lol, sounds good to me!
Good stuff
Thanks!
Super good job greet from Holland.
Thank you very much!
Great to see progess of your boat.
I have been wondering for some time how you were going to power the stand alone electric motor, cables or solid bus bar given the current requirements.
Are you intending to use copper or aluminium/alloy both have benifets and disadvantages (cost / wieght / conductivity)?
Aluminum. The only disadvantage is thst it takes a thicker bar to carry the same amperage, but in the floor web we have plenty of space and they will still be lighter and less expensive than copper bus bars. We will be putting in a 30% buffer to make sure they can carry a worst case scenario load. So if everything is running at maximum and that would pull 600 amps, the bus bars will be rated for 900 smps.
hi well I see its still standing that's such a relief, I would still like to see a little more structure going in to supporting those tall bulkheads before I stop stressing lol, quick question....ive noticed on other boat building projects Duracell project, Matt and Jessica channel and others ....they all make use of metal grooved rollers to squeeze out air pockets to ensure against delamination when laying up fibreglass, do you do this off camera? as I've noticed you just press it on with your fingers. I'm no expert in fibreglass I just noticed that both of them do this....they are perfectionist though and their method may be over kill as far as I know, but if it is a crucial step......... sorry again if I came across a bit of a troll last week. PS I've liked and subscribed
We use metal rollers at times, but when we put down a double layer wet out on the table, we already rolled out any bubbles and when we apply those two layers to the panel, we push out any bubbles with our fingers which has been working out well with no voids after it sets up. However, we will use the rollers at times as well.
@@SailingSVLynx cool, PS loving the progress
excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
😃😃😃
🤟
You should use steel roller over the glass ...
We do, at times. But there is nothing magic about a roller. It just pushes bubbles to the edge and evens out epoxy. It also removes excess resin. This can be accomplished with anything that applies pressure and moves towards the edges. When we pre-wet out two layers, we already even out and remove excess resin, so all we need to do after that is smooth out any bubbles.
@@SailingSVLynx I can see a lot of voids just from the video. White paces, air gaps. Especially with biax glass you should use steel roller properly othervise you will get easy delamination.
I used to be proffesional composite boatbuilder ...
@petrpodobsky7005 I don't know what you think you are seeing in the video, but there are no voids or air gaps. Make sure you aren't looking at the peel ply.
@@SailingSVLynx Believe me I´m able to see the difference. I do not want to make you angry. Just would like to see the better product.
Ideally you shouldn´t see any white fiber in the fiberglass and it should be sucked to the surface. To achieve this it takes a lot of work with the steel roller unfortunetelly and other circumstaces like right amount of resin and right resin viscosity.
I am sure you have said it in an earlier episode, but what kind of foam boards are you using?
They come from a company called Advanced Materials Solutions, in South Africa and area a PVC foam with layers of fiberglass vacuum bagged on at the factory and then waterjet cut.
@@SailingSVLynx was that included in the delivery from schionning or did you choose them to make them yourselves?
BTW, I envy you so much. I really want to build such a boat myself. But 400k and 10000 hours is too much unfortunately. I am 55 so I will finish it around 83 I guess 😃
@@dagragnarklstad2400 Thanks, but you're right, it is a lot of work but we just keep our eye on the ball and keep going. As for the 10000 hours, you would need help. And yes, all the precut foam parts are included in the kit.
I really enjoy your build, but I have a request/suggestion.
Please explain the action you intend to take, then perform that part of the build. Three, four and five statements of your intended action, then two or three statements after you have done the work, is a bit too much.
Thank you.
We will do what we can.
It’s a teaching technique, tell them what you are going to do, tell them what you are doing, tell them what you did.
@@normanboyes4983
Understood, but in these cases there is significant overkill.
Tell what is intended and how it is planned to to be done, once. Show progress as itthe task is accomplished. Show the finished product.