The way you re-engineered the motor mounts is the way it should have been done in the first place. I don’t think you will regret that decision. Every permanently installed part is forward progress. Well played sir.
Fantastic work. I went for a walk along the harbour in La Rochelle today there are a number of companies in La Rochelle building Cat's of a similar size and they gave me an idea what you are building. Beautiful boats. I am looking forward to next weeks video and hope all goes well too.
that is a lot of work for motor mount bolts. We used Lag Screws into fiberglass. They hold and so much easier. A little fresh epoxy when adding lag screws holds it even on 600 hp engines running at 7000 rpm's. So in your design the 4 outer screws would be lag screws as long and thick as you can. I would also extend those plates an inch in longer in each direction to get more stable results.
Wow!!! You accomplish a Lot this week. I love how you are “Forward Thinking “ with as with regards to possible future problems, the motor mounts. The designer will hopefully incorporate those changes in the future designs. Keep up the Good work.
Thanks! It's hard to say if Schionning will adopt our change, they have been making their boats for a long time, so they are probably happy with their current system. However, we made some additional changes to what we are doing, you'll see next week.
I think you guys should get two hard hats instead of sharing one! We never see both of you wearing one at the same time! lol! Love the channel! It’s one of my favorites!
with the black mount on the diesel engine for the electric drive make sure you can still unbolt the starter or any other parts bolted to block for servicing.
I like the fact your thinking ahead on the fuel polishing, Your planning is on , Its been about 15 yrs ago i had a guy clean my tanks and polish my fuel in san diego before Heading to east cape cabo our first load of fuel heading south in Ensanada was contaminated, I was going down cracking the cock on bottom of the raycors every hour for the next 3 days while on the run , luckily i had the clear racors and could see the water and dirt as it filled the bottoms and knew when to crack them open to drain.
Yeah, you can try not to get contaminated fuel... but you never know. We just want a way to clean the fuel in case that happens, though we will do our best to buy at reputable sources.
On your head bump area i hang down a couple strips yellow caution tape just as a reminder when your looking down not to stand up . Your electrician friend should have a open role.
I'm finally caught up with the videos! Y'all put out a lot of great stuff, thank you for taking the time to do it. As someone that very occasionally puts out vids of minimal quality, I recognize the effort. Just a thought, I wonder if plastic framing squares might come in useful for setting up some of the bulkheads. Or any other panel you need to glue in. Then you could clamp the pieces to the squares rather than using screw on blocks that pierce the core and have to filled in. I can see, though, some definite advantages to screwing the blocks in. They are quite secure!
Really enjoying this epic build series and it has taken me around three weeks to binge watch and get up to date with this latest published video. You have and are doing an excellent job and just keep on getting it done.😀👍⛵️
Thanks... and now your comments will be even more useful since we stay nearly up to real time on these videos. The day we finish shooting footage for the week, I start editing for the video release.
@@SailingSVLynx Additional comment. Hope you are going to make a lightweight space frame to mimic the mounts and output coupling accurately? It is well worth the effort (and will only require minor adaptation for the other hull).👍
@@normanboyes4983 We took the time to cut a reference board first from other material, before starting on the mounts. And, as you will see in next week's video, we checked the accuracy six ways from Sunday to make sure these are exactly correct. It is a critical element of the build.
Don't rush to put your soles in. Once they're installed, you won't be able to readily run plumbing under there. Ditto for any cabling unless you put that in conduits that you run now.
I second your steel plate motor mount. Can I suggest it be a little longer so that your lag bolts are further than 1.5” from the opening that allows you to access the motor mount bolt/nut.
Cedar is very soft, you don’t want to put 2 lag bolts so close to the edge of the wood or each other. You can even stagger the lag bolts so they aren’t nest to each other, like 1 about 1.5” away and the other 2.5” away
Will you have an external snorkel for the dive compressor so it isn’t drawing from a compartment that handles hydrocarbons like the fuel polishing system?
Shout out to the Wynns 🎉. Great job h3re I always dreamed of building one of these... emailed them years ago about moving the helm around to where you have 😂 still,can't afford it though 😂😂
Yeah, it took me 15 years to save enough to start this project. The good news (if there can be good news about waiting 15 years) is that they came up with the Solitaire 1490 in that time, which was very close to what we wanted. Then, we just modeled up the changes to make the 1520 and Schionning agreed to make that new model kit!
As I don't believe you've painted that cabin top, I might gently suggest, if you haven't already done so, getting a tarp over it to protect your fiberglass from UV degradation while you finish your build. Even as little as one summer can have a nasty longterm effect.
Coming along very nicely.. surfaces most exposed to the sun.. no need to to cover up for uv protection? Anyways, looking forward to your next video..🙂👍
I don't understand your concern about the thread studs getting damaged. These studs require no maintenance, so you can apply a strong thread-locking compound on them. If you can build a full boat, removing the thread studs with the right tools should be a piece of cake. I prefer the original design because it's cheaper, lighter, and stronger, as it isn't weakened by a hole to access the bolt. That said, I enjoy watching all your attempts to improve the Schionning design, like the rain catchment system that ended up being really promising 👏
Well, we believe that you should always hope for the best, but plan for the worst. To assume that the threads on the stud will never get damaged doesn't fit that philosophy. However, that being said, we improved the motor mount modification even further, which you will see made in the next video. Thanks for your comment though, we appreciate your thoughts.
The Schionning way with a bolt bonded in the engine stringers has its inherent problem that one cannot slide the engine forward (away) from the transmission. First one would have to lift the engine over the stud and then slide it. This is risky and might damage a "threaded stud". In my case the builder used lag bolts to hold the engine mounts, and also used lag bolts to bolt down the Sail-Drive units. Since an engine compartment will get wet or even might get flooded, lag bolts are in my opinion not suited! People used Sikaflex and M3-5200 products trying to seal the lag bolts so that there is NO water and NO moisture going down the bolt into the red cedar wood. On my Schionning most bolt holes were rotten, 8 Engine bolt holes, and 16 SD bolt holes. This was cause to rebuild both engine/transmission beds. My remedy was to to machine some SST T-nuts, make fiber glass bushings and bond them in the proper coordination into the cavity, then laminate 3mm uni-glass over it. Now guarantied that no water gets to the wood, one can slide the engines away from the transmission and its "bombproof". The last thing one needs in heavy seas to have an engine come loose and become a wrecking-ball inside the compartment.
We agree! In fact, we ditched the lag bolt idea and came up with a new way to bolt it all together, which you will see us design and manufacture in the next video. :)
Just noticing your not doing any consolidation after laying glass webs. Sunning hands over and covering with peel ply leaves lots of air gaps, less than ideal.
I’d have to agree there shouldn’t be any white lines visible in the peel ply, it is vital to push the fibres onto the surface and minimise the resin floating around them. Just run over it with a foam roller and then I consolidating roller should do the job but using your hands it’s just ridiculous. I have suggested in the past reading the Gougeon Brothers boat book
@@SailingSVLynx well a couple reasons. First and foremost to prevent complications while at sea. When I enlisted in the Marine Corps they have a strict rule of removing wisdom teeth. Even though mine were in and had no complications. The military overtime noticed wisdom teeth were an issue on deployments, so made it a rule to get them removed before deployment. Just like you’re going to run sea trials before you set sail away from the US for years, you want to make sure your body is in the right condition too, and it’s a simple procedure that can prevent way worse complications down the road. Live your life though!
@@jonblair5470 My doctor is fully aware of my sailing intentions, and already plans to run a whole battery of tests on me before I set sail. He even came out to see the boat build :)
The way you re-engineered the motor mounts is the way it should have been done in the first place. I don’t think you will regret that decision. Every permanently installed part is forward progress. Well played sir.
Thanks... we even improved it further, which you will see when we make them in the next video.
I really like the way you rethink issues. You must be an engineer. Motor mounts look great. Project is riveting to watch.
Thanks!
Fantastic work. I went for a walk along the harbour in La Rochelle today there are a number of companies in La Rochelle building Cat's of a similar size and they gave me an idea what you are building. Beautiful boats. I am looking forward to next weeks video and hope all goes well too.
Damn, I wish I was in La Rochelle! I do plan to visit there on S/V Lynx once she's done! Thanks for watching our videos!
Not a small change, that's good engineering!
Thanks.
that is a lot of work for motor mount bolts. We used Lag Screws into fiberglass. They hold and so much easier. A little fresh epoxy when adding lag screws holds it even on 600 hp engines running at 7000 rpm's. So in your design the 4 outer screws would be lag screws as long and thick as you can. I would also extend those plates an inch in longer in each direction to get more stable results.
We did extend the plates out further, but we also changed the design some as well to get rid of the lag screws. You'll see what we did next week :)
Wow!!!
You accomplish a Lot this week. I love how you are “Forward Thinking “ with as with regards to possible future problems, the motor mounts. The designer will hopefully incorporate those changes in the future designs. Keep up the Good work.
Thanks! It's hard to say if Schionning will adopt our change, they have been making their boats for a long time, so they are probably happy with their current system. However, we made some additional changes to what we are doing, you'll see next week.
I think you guys should get two hard hats instead of sharing one! We never see both of you wearing one at the same time! lol! Love the channel! It’s one of my favorites!
We have two.
with the black mount on the diesel engine for the electric drive make sure you can still unbolt the starter or any other parts bolted to block for servicing.
We checked all that, good to go!
Great progress on different areas this week👍
Yes, thanks!
I like the fact your thinking ahead on the fuel polishing, Your planning is on , Its been about 15 yrs ago i had a guy clean my tanks and polish my fuel in san diego before Heading to east cape cabo our first load of fuel heading south in Ensanada was contaminated, I was going down cracking the cock on bottom of the raycors every hour for the next 3 days while on the run , luckily i had the clear racors and could see the water and dirt as it filled the bottoms and knew when to crack them open to drain.
Yeah, you can try not to get contaminated fuel... but you never know. We just want a way to clean the fuel in case that happens, though we will do our best to buy at reputable sources.
On your head bump area i hang down a couple strips yellow caution tape just as a reminder when your looking down not to stand up . Your electrician friend should have a open role.
Thanks
I'm finally caught up with the videos! Y'all put out a lot of great stuff, thank you for taking the time to do it. As someone that very occasionally puts out vids of minimal quality, I recognize the effort. Just a thought, I wonder if plastic framing squares might come in useful for setting up some of the bulkheads. Or any other panel you need to glue in. Then you could clamp the pieces to the squares rather than using screw on blocks that pierce the core and have to filled in. I can see, though, some definite advantages to screwing the blocks in. They are quite secure!
We do plan to get some framing squares soon.
Really enjoying this epic build series and it has taken me around three weeks to binge watch and get up to date with this latest published video. You have and are doing an excellent job and just keep on getting it done.😀👍⛵️
Thanks... and now your comments will be even more useful since we stay nearly up to real time on these videos. The day we finish shooting footage for the week, I start editing for the video release.
@@SailingSVLynx Additional comment. Hope you are going to make a lightweight space frame to mimic the mounts and output coupling accurately? It is well worth the effort (and will only require minor adaptation for the other hull).👍
@@normanboyes4983 We took the time to cut a reference board first from other material, before starting on the mounts. And, as you will see in next week's video, we checked the accuracy six ways from Sunday to make sure these are exactly correct. It is a critical element of the build.
Interesting to see that you have to cool the epoxy while we here in sweden has the opposite problem with keeping the epoxy hot enough.
Yeah, that is different! We hope to visit Sweden on S/V Lynx in the future, we maybe we'll see you up in the Baltic!
Don't rush to put your soles in. Once they're installed, you won't be able to readily run plumbing under there. Ditto for any cabling unless you put that in conduits that you run now.
Don't worry, we will set them in, not glass them in until we are ready.
Great stuff
Thanks!
I second your steel plate motor mount. Can I suggest it be a little longer so that your lag bolts are further than 1.5” from the opening that allows you to access the motor mount bolt/nut.
Cedar is very soft, you don’t want to put 2 lag bolts so close to the edge of the wood or each other. You can even stagger the lag bolts so they aren’t nest to each other, like 1 about 1.5” away and the other 2.5” away
We modified the design to get rid of the lag bolts, you'll see what we did in next week's video. :)
Will you have an external snorkel for the dive compressor so it isn’t drawing from a compartment that handles hydrocarbons like the fuel polishing system?
Absolutely.
Shout out to the Wynns 🎉. Great job h3re I always dreamed of building one of these... emailed them years ago about moving the helm around to where you have 😂 still,can't afford it though 😂😂
Yeah, it took me 15 years to save enough to start this project. The good news (if there can be good news about waiting 15 years) is that they came up with the Solitaire 1490 in that time, which was very close to what we wanted. Then, we just modeled up the changes to make the 1520 and Schionning agreed to make that new model kit!
As I don't believe you've painted that cabin top, I might gently suggest, if you haven't already done so, getting a tarp over it to protect your fiberglass from UV degradation while you finish your build. Even as little as one summer can have a nasty longterm effect.
We plan to do that very soon.
Coming along very nicely.. surfaces most exposed to the sun.. no need to to cover up for uv protection? Anyways, looking forward to your next video..🙂👍
We're going to deal with that soon.
Did you consider thick gauge aluminium for the mounting plates?
Four less lumps of rusty steel in the bilges 😂
Yes, but we went with steel since it will be completely encased in fiberglass.
I don't understand your concern about the thread studs getting damaged. These studs require no maintenance, so you can apply a strong thread-locking compound on them. If you can build a full boat, removing the thread studs with the right tools should be a piece of cake. I prefer the original design because it's cheaper, lighter, and stronger, as it isn't weakened by a hole to access the bolt. That said, I enjoy watching all your attempts to improve the Schionning design, like the rain catchment system that ended up being really promising 👏
Well, we believe that you should always hope for the best, but plan for the worst. To assume that the threads on the stud will never get damaged doesn't fit that philosophy. However, that being said, we improved the motor mount modification even further, which you will see made in the next video. Thanks for your comment though, we appreciate your thoughts.
Man that look like such a big project but guess kinda like eating a elephant one bit at a time.
No doubt. :)
never ate an elephant so wouldn.t know haha
Are you only using a single layer for your tabbing or do you plan to add more layers later ?
There are 2 layers of tabbing, they are pre wetted and both applied at the same time, explained in an earlier episode
At 6:00 you can see two layers of glass pretty easy. They did the same on the bow.
They other replies were correct :)
😃
Do you sand after removing peel ply ? I would !!!
Yes, we do.
The Schionning way with a bolt bonded in the engine stringers has its inherent problem that one cannot slide the engine forward (away) from the transmission. First one would have to lift the engine over the stud and then slide it. This is risky and might damage a "threaded stud".
In my case the builder used lag bolts to hold the engine mounts, and also used lag bolts to bolt down the Sail-Drive units.
Since an engine compartment will get wet or even might get flooded, lag bolts are in my opinion not suited! People used Sikaflex and M3-5200 products trying to seal the lag bolts so that there is NO water and NO moisture going down the bolt into the red cedar wood.
On my Schionning most bolt holes were rotten, 8 Engine bolt holes, and 16 SD bolt holes. This was cause to rebuild both engine/transmission beds.
My remedy was to to machine some SST T-nuts, make fiber glass bushings and bond them in the proper coordination into the cavity, then laminate 3mm uni-glass over it. Now guarantied that no water gets to the wood, one can slide the engines away from the transmission and its "bombproof".
The last thing one needs in heavy seas to have an engine come loose and become a wrecking-ball inside the compartment.
We agree! In fact, we ditched the lag bolt idea and came up with a new way to bolt it all together, which you will see us design and manufacture in the next video. :)
Just noticing your not doing any consolidation after laying glass webs. Sunning hands over and covering with peel ply leaves lots of air gaps, less than ideal.
Did you see the final result in the video? No air gaps that I can see. Everyone's a critic I guess.
Isn't consolidation used when using chopped strand? they are using woven fabric so not required I would think
We do use a metal roller most of the time.
I’d have to agree there shouldn’t be any white lines visible in the peel ply, it is vital to push the fibres onto the surface and minimise the resin floating around them. Just run over it with a foam roller and then I consolidating roller should do the job but using your hands it’s just ridiculous. I have suggested in the past reading the Gougeon Brothers boat book
As a medical professional, I hope you have fit hernia repair into your schedule.
Why?
@@SailingSVLynx well a couple reasons. First and foremost to prevent complications while at sea. When I enlisted in the Marine Corps they have a strict rule of removing wisdom teeth. Even though mine were in and had no complications. The military overtime noticed wisdom teeth were an issue on deployments, so made it a rule to get them removed before deployment. Just like you’re going to run sea trials before you set sail away from the US for years, you want to make sure your body is in the right condition too, and it’s a simple procedure that can prevent way worse complications down the road. Live your life though!
@@jonblair5470 My doctor is fully aware of my sailing intentions, and already plans to run a whole battery of tests on me before I set sail. He even came out to see the boat build :)