I agree with @Samul Best banking instructing video I have watched so far an have watched lots of them I just thought I would point out that when you was trying to hit the5 ball in front of the side going to the outside and your numbers were 4× 3.5 and you said the kicking point was13.5 it was14 Not being a smart a## just going with the most accurate banking and kicking system you ever seen an I agree with you Thanks for your time and effort to teach good ways for us trying any way or help in getting our game better and more consistent Have a blessed day and thank you again
Thank you! And yes, I realized after I posted that I made a mistake on the numbering. Funny, I'm a match and computer science major and I messed up on simple math lol... oh well... again thx for watching!
@@rhaazy You still need the running english. You just don't need to turn the ball so much or use extra side spin, like you do without the adjustment. With the 1/4 diamond, you can use normal running english (1/2 tip to full tip above center, 1/2 tip sidespin) at nice medium speed and should work on most table brands and conditions. Even on the shorter playing Diamonds, where I have to make adjustments for almost every system I know, this one works perfect, just like on Brunswick, Gandy, Olhausen, etc.
Yea, sorry. Wish I had known earlier in the series, someone else provided the mic and it was getting interference from some other equipment in the building... I was just discussing plus 2 system, and how if you aim exactly on the numbers, on most equipment, it doesn't work. You have to play with speed and/or spin to make the shots. You can see that on most of the other videos out there that people have done, where as they move up or down the table they are hitting the ball firmer or spinning more or less. Joe Villapondo (sp?) had a video back in the 90's I think and he discussed making a 1/4 diamond adjustment, and I tried it and found that it works on most tables including the Diamonds that I usually play on. It takes away the need to memorize when to use more or less speed or english, sort of smoothes out the angles. So calculate the number of diamonds away from the object ball, find the normal aim point on the top rail, then just adjust over 1/4 diamond (about 2.5 - 3 inches on a 9 foot table) and hit with normal speed and running english.
I have a questions - at 15:45 when you place the cue ball down you say you know you want to hit a certain spot on the opposite long rail and so you know you are coming from the 5th diamond and then you do the math. My question is, how can you know the certain point of contact on the rail when in real game you dont have these lines projected on the table, because you're trying to work it out thus you dont really know which diamond you're aiming from thus no way you can actually calculate this. Am I right?
For most systems, the CB has a number only once you determine what diamond it's originating from. When the CB is near or on the rail, that's easy. When it's in the middle of the table, you have to estimate then do the math and see if your estimate was correct. With practice you get pretty close and can make minor adjustments when not exactly on the line, and if you are off you pick another number and try that. For instance, in the example you mentioned, let's say the CB was an inch or two to the left or right. I would still guess diamond 5 as my starting point, since I've done this a lot and I can envision the rough angle into the first rail. But when I do the math (5x3=15), I would see that my CB would be slightly left or right of that calculated line. So I would just adjust a bit left or right on the first rail to compensate. Maybe I would aim at 16, or 14, etc. You can basically estimate and move over a bit from the perfect line. No system is full proof, you aren't always going to be on the perfect line, you will always have to make some minor adjustments based on experience, table conditions, etc. Another way to say this - as you are learning, let's say you pick diamond 4 for this example. You do the math (4x3 = 12), and look down or place your stick on that line and you would see the CB is quite far away from the line. Then you choose 5 and you see it's really close, you use that number. Sometimes I will pick half numbers as well (4.5, 5.5) to try and get closer, but usually with experience you will pick a number that's very close and parallel over from there. I hope that helps. In video #6 I talk about estimating these types of numbers for other 1 rail systems, so maybe that will help. The key to remember is that the CB doesn't have an origin point until you pick a line, do the math, and see if it works out. A bit of reverse engineering so to speak... :)
A great system for learning how to bank a ball is the double to table system it is fantastic I haven't watched this video all the way through so I don't know if you talked about it but I am an hour and 14 minutes in so maybe in the last 4 minutes you going to talk about it lol
Scott, PLEASE tell me where I can find the 'ADJUSTMENTS' for the long & short rails w/ corner 5 system. And any other adjustments you mentioned. I've searched & searched. Thanks
I learned a lot from 3 cushion books, the only pool book I've seen them in is Robert Byrnes Standard Book of Pool & Billiards. The corner 5, adjustments, and other sytems are in the back section of the book on billiards. I will be covering my methods in upcoming videos as well, but just had shoulder surgery so will be out of commission for a while.
23:00 I beg to disagree. I know firsthand Efren has a system very similar to yours, He calculated it and will always tell you "I got lucky". In fact, those who has "TIRADA" as we say,is the ones getting to play with another opponent who "KNOWS" the Tirada system with a specific price according to the rating. I learned it myself firsthand from money games. One will go at a higher "Rating" if one has that system. Even before 8,9 10 ball came to exist, in the Philippines, carom was. The americans introduced tables with pockets. Feel has only something to do when one knows approximately how the table plays and to where the "hitting point" is.
It's called Projection Pro Billiards. It's around $300 and you can buy extra drill modules that are preloaded. Fairly easy to add your own diagrams as well which is what I did for the clinics. They recommend certain projectors to use with it but probably have a little flexibility with that. Several of my students purchased one for their home tables after seeing us use it and they love it!
All of these systems will work on all table sizes as long as they are "normal" tables, i.e. twice as long as they are wide. As mentioned in both kicking videos, different types of tables could play differently than expected, and conditions can even vary on the same table based on how new the cloth is, how clean the balls are, humidity in the room, etc. My baseline for learning and practicing the kicking systems was usually 8' and 9' Brunswick Gold Crown tables, then later a few different brands of 3 cushion tables (Verhoeven, Gabriels, and Soren Sogard). In my experience the Gold Crowns tend to play true to the systems I've learned, sort of right on the numbers so to speak. Olhausens and Gandys were similar. Diamonds play shorter and require adjustments on many of the systems, but once you figure out and apply the adjustments the systems are still very accurate. I'm not as familiar with bar boxes, rarely play on them, so I suggest you test out a few shots to see if the table plays long or short of the expected tracks and adjust from there. But nothing about the size should affect the systems, it's more about the cloth, rails, etc.
@@ScottsPoolSchool Thank you for the quick reply, and sorry I must have missed you mentioning that. I've been binging these videos for the past 2 days. I take the summers off from pool to golf while I can here in Wisconsin. These videos have been a nice refresher as I get back into pool mode this season. Of course I've also learned a couple new things too. :)
@@hellstrike5366 funny, I did the same when I lived in Wisconsin. Pool in winter, golf in summer. Have to take advantage of the nice weather when you have it!
Would love to see your system for the z kick-shot. Found this vid ua-cam.com/video/QWaJGytSFjE/v-deo.html a while back but it made me more confused after watching it.
Tried many banking systems. This method is best by far. Love it
I agree with @Samul Best banking instructing video I have watched so far an have watched lots of them I just thought I would point out that when you was trying to hit the5 ball in front of the side going to the outside and your numbers were 4× 3.5 and you said the kicking point was13.5 it was14 Not being a smart a## just going with the most accurate banking and kicking system you ever seen an I agree with you Thanks for your time and effort to teach good ways for us trying any way or help in getting our game better and more consistent Have a blessed day and thank you again
Thank you! And yes, I realized after I posted that I made a mistake on the numbering. Funny, I'm a match and computer science major and I messed up on simple math lol... oh well... again thx for watching!
Best kicking and banking class I've seen! Thank you for the effort you've given us for free! Have a good day!
Going to try that "1/4 diamond adjust" on the 2 rail system instead of the extra running english. thanks for the tip!
It works great and more consistent from most positions and most tables vs. adjusting amount of running english.
@@ScottsPoolSchool I wasn't having much luck on my bar box. Seems like without a tip of running english I can't come close.
@@rhaazy You still need the running english. You just don't need to turn the ball so much or use extra side spin, like you do without the adjustment. With the 1/4 diamond, you can use normal running english (1/2 tip to full tip above center, 1/2 tip sidespin) at nice medium speed and should work on most table brands and conditions. Even on the shorter playing Diamonds, where I have to make adjustments for almost every system I know, this one works perfect, just like on Brunswick, Gandy, Olhausen, etc.
Ryan H 🔯
really enjoyed this series, thanks for doing it, I appreciate it
Absolutely excellent!
What were you explaining at 24:51? Your voice cut off. Thanks in advance.
Yea, sorry. Wish I had known earlier in the series, someone else provided the mic and it was getting interference from some other equipment in the building... I was just discussing plus 2 system, and how if you aim exactly on the numbers, on most equipment, it doesn't work. You have to play with speed and/or spin to make the shots. You can see that on most of the other videos out there that people have done, where as they move up or down the table they are hitting the ball firmer or spinning more or less.
Joe Villapondo (sp?) had a video back in the 90's I think and he discussed making a 1/4 diamond adjustment, and I tried it and found that it works on most tables including the Diamonds that I usually play on. It takes away the need to memorize when to use more or less speed or english, sort of smoothes out the angles. So calculate the number of diamonds away from the object ball, find the normal aim point on the top rail, then just adjust over 1/4 diamond (about 2.5 - 3 inches on a 9 foot table) and hit with normal speed and running english.
@@ScottsPoolSchool Great! Thank you.
I have a questions - at 15:45 when you place the cue ball down you say you know you want to hit a certain spot on the opposite long rail and so you know you are coming from the 5th diamond and then you do the math. My question is, how can you know the certain point of contact on the rail when in real game you dont have these lines projected on the table, because you're trying to work it out thus you dont really know which diamond you're aiming from thus no way you can actually calculate this. Am I right?
For most systems, the CB has a number only once you determine what diamond it's originating from. When the CB is near or on the rail, that's easy. When it's in the middle of the table, you have to estimate then do the math and see if your estimate was correct. With practice you get pretty close and can make minor adjustments when not exactly on the line, and if you are off you pick another number and try that.
For instance, in the example you mentioned, let's say the CB was an inch or two to the left or right. I would still guess diamond 5 as my starting point, since I've done this a lot and I can envision the rough angle into the first rail. But when I do the math (5x3=15), I would see that my CB would be slightly left or right of that calculated line. So I would just adjust a bit left or right on the first rail to compensate. Maybe I would aim at 16, or 14, etc. You can basically estimate and move over a bit from the perfect line. No system is full proof, you aren't always going to be on the perfect line, you will always have to make some minor adjustments based on experience, table conditions, etc.
Another way to say this - as you are learning, let's say you pick diamond 4 for this example. You do the math (4x3 = 12), and look down or place your stick on that line and you would see the CB is quite far away from the line. Then you choose 5 and you see it's really close, you use that number. Sometimes I will pick half numbers as well (4.5, 5.5) to try and get closer, but usually with experience you will pick a number that's very close and parallel over from there.
I hope that helps. In video #6 I talk about estimating these types of numbers for other 1 rail systems, so maybe that will help. The key to remember is that the CB doesn't have an origin point until you pick a line, do the math, and see if it works out. A bit of reverse engineering so to speak... :)
A great system for learning how to bank a ball is the double to table system it is fantastic I haven't watched this video all the way through so I don't know if you talked about it but I am an hour and 14 minutes in so maybe in the last 4 minutes you going to talk about it lol
Is this the ICA projection system? If so, do you have a module you or Robin sells?
Yes it is. Don't have a module, I just did some diagrams for the classes I taught.
Thank you thank you thank you!!!! This is it!!!!!
Scott, PLEASE tell me where I can find the 'ADJUSTMENTS' for the long & short rails w/ corner 5 system. And any other adjustments you mentioned. I've searched & searched. Thanks
I learned a lot from 3 cushion books, the only pool book I've seen them in is Robert Byrnes Standard Book of Pool & Billiards. The corner 5, adjustments, and other sytems are in the back section of the book on billiards. I will be covering my methods in upcoming videos as well, but just had shoulder surgery so will be out of commission for a while.
23:00 I beg to disagree. I know firsthand Efren has a system very similar to yours, He calculated it and will always tell you "I got lucky". In fact, those who has "TIRADA" as we say,is the ones getting to play with another opponent who "KNOWS" the Tirada system with a specific price according to the rating. I learned it myself firsthand from money games. One will go at a higher "Rating" if one has that system. Even before 8,9 10 ball came to exist, in the Philippines, carom was. The americans introduced tables with pockets. Feel has only something to do when one knows approximately how the table plays and to where the "hitting point" is.
What kind of projection system do u use? For the diagrams on the table, I saw a few but I don't know what a get!!
It's called Projection Pro Billiards. It's around $300 and you can buy extra drill modules that are preloaded. Fairly easy to add your own diagrams as well which is what I did for the clinics.
They recommend certain projectors to use with it but probably have a little flexibility with that. Several of my students purchased one for their home tables after seeing us use it and they love it!
@@ScottsPoolSchool perfect! Becsuse I saw another one, but I think is a lot expensive for the same principle
Hello Scott, Can you please tell me what part of the country ru in? I am in Maryland. Was thinking about getting classes.
I'm in Jacksonville, FL
Do these systems work the same on a 7' Valley table?
All of these systems will work on all table sizes as long as they are "normal" tables, i.e. twice as long as they are wide. As mentioned in both kicking videos, different types of tables could play differently than expected, and conditions can even vary on the same table based on how new the cloth is, how clean the balls are, humidity in the room, etc.
My baseline for learning and practicing the kicking systems was usually 8' and 9' Brunswick Gold Crown tables, then later a few different brands of 3 cushion tables (Verhoeven, Gabriels, and Soren Sogard). In my experience the Gold Crowns tend to play true to the systems I've learned, sort of right on the numbers so to speak. Olhausens and Gandys were similar. Diamonds play shorter and require adjustments on many of the systems, but once you figure out and apply the adjustments the systems are still very accurate. I'm not as familiar with bar boxes, rarely play on them, so I suggest you test out a few shots to see if the table plays long or short of the expected tracks and adjust from there. But nothing about the size should affect the systems, it's more about the cloth, rails, etc.
@@ScottsPoolSchool Thank you for the quick reply, and sorry I must have missed you mentioning that. I've been binging these videos for the past 2 days. I take the summers off from pool to golf while I can here in Wisconsin. These videos have been a nice refresher as I get back into pool mode this season. Of course I've also learned a couple new things too. :)
@@hellstrike5366 funny, I did the same when I lived in Wisconsin. Pool in winter, golf in summer. Have to take advantage of the nice weather when you have it!
Great lessons and the mic issues are really distracting. :(
Would love to see your system for the z kick-shot. Found this vid ua-cam.com/video/QWaJGytSFjE/v-deo.html a while back but it made me more confused after watching it.