My House Is Falling Down! | DIY Deck Post Rot Repair & Replacement
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
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Welcome to the official April Wilkerson UA-cam channel. I’m April and I’m the creator of Wilker Do’s. I'm not professional or have any training, so I just pick the project I want to tackle and figure it out step by step. On this channel you will find a variety of content like DIY home improvement, How-To’s, construction and more.
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Concidering that wood wicks up water through capillery action why would this product not be like a bag as apose to just a side wrap.I suppect brushing or dipping the post in a 5 gallon metal pail of roofing tar or creasote would be better then this product No?
Great tips, the only thing I dont like is encasing the post in concrete. For a load bearing application pouring a pier or footer that the post can sit on is much stronger. Think of a continuous load path downward. Pouring concrete around the post is great for fences where you need to hold the post side to side but don't have a downward force. Use a sono tube to bring the footer above grade and add a standoff post bracket and you'll never deal with rot again
I second that. And even if you do have rot, it is a heck of a lot easier and less expensive to replace the pier/post.
This is exactly how I build not only my decks, but also my fences. In fact, the new rules in this area are such that we all must do this method. For one, we have a high water table, major termites as well as large storms and hurricanes. When the wood is to be removed and replaced, there is also a lot of concrete that is to be removed from the holes, and new concrete placed in the holes. So the main issue we All have is, where to put the wasted concrete? It mostly ends up in land fills, and takes up valuable space there, forever. So now, the permit and inspection department has changed their mandates to concrete pier/footers, 2-4 inches above g/l and a post connector anchored to all treated lumber posts, regardless of their size/diameter. So far, this is not directed towards pilon piers that are driven into the ground for foundations.
Wood is always going to be a problem. I would have looked at the pre-cast concrete piers they sell at the big box store. They work like Lego blocks. $150 x 20 would be a bit more expensive, however you would never have a problem with rotting. If staying with wood, get some Liquid Rubber and seal the entire post with it, 3x coats while sticky, and no problems for 20+ years in your area.
I agree with that assesment. Depending on where she is in Texas you may need as little as a 12x12x12 footing under each pier. Once the footing is poured and cured I would put the new post in with a galvanized post bracket so there is no contact between the treated wood and the concrete. Incidently I had to do a similar repair on my deck and that is what a structural engineer recommended.
she has no uplift protection by just setting the post in concrete--should have screws into post in concrete and epoxy rebar into substrate rock
@@iTriguy1 how long will a metal bracket last in concrete?
I've seen so many deck supports rot over time because they're not properly protected from ground moisture.
I'm not a builder or anything, but I've always thought it made more sense to pour a solid concrete footing first, then use a steel post base connector to set the wooden post on top of the concrete. This way, the posts never touch the ground, never absorb moisture from the curing concrete, and if damaged they can be replaced without digging out the ground or the concrete.
Absolutely!
Dad (with a little help from 13yr-old me) build a carport, a pergola and two small door porches around 40yrs ago this way.
Only the pergola had to be replaced a few years back and that rotted from the top, the others do not even show signs of decay, despite our weather (43" of rain per year).
It is actually a code requirement in most areas that you do just that. Wood should not terminate less than 8" above ground. You can also buy post brackets from Simpsons to keep the post in place on top of the concrete. I think the product she is using is meant for fence posts and not structural columns.
@@yodaiam1000 When I built a ramp to go from the driveway to the house, I used Simpson post holders in concrete and set the 4X4 posts in them instead of in the concrete. I do not like the idea of wood ending in the ground or in concrete.
@@royreynolds108 Posts set on top of concrete is definitely better even for fences. But if a fence rots out after 10 years, it is not as serious as a house or deck support column.
It seems a better way to fix would have been to pour a concrete footing/pillar with a simpson galvanized tie bracket to hold the wood post above the ground, very common method !!
I'm just a diyer but based on my research I'd agree with you. In the years to come this is the method i would use on my pole barn with is post in ground and about 20 years old. However if her original setup lasted 10 years and these sleeves are remotely as good as advertised then maybe it'll be a 15 or 20 year life on her setup.
@@daveklein2826 OOOOH I have and the posts have not rotted ih over 40 years !!!
@@wilburfinnigan2142 doubt it
Not the only way ❄️
@@asseater1895 Well doubt it if you want but the barn is still there and NO posts have rotted and the barn still stands as a post frame set on concrete footings and the posts well above the ground and as solid today as it was when I built it 40 years ago !!!
Great video as usual. I would totally have used 3/4" galvanized bolts to hold the new scabbed section to the existing post. Those posts are holding up the weight of multiple levels. Construction adhesive and deck screws alone, don't supply the same shear strength that large deck bolts have. Just my thoughts.
I noticed that too. Adhesive has no place on a structural support like this.
Old school, dip the posts in tar. Burn them or dip in Creosote. I've seen so many pressure treated posts rot prematurely. Or best cement footers with posts in a metal bracket above the cement so wood dries quickly. Even with Life Long Post sleeve products, a footer with post in a metal bracket will last the longest. We use this in the Northeast of New England. Then to make them last evan longer on the footer's spray regular for termite's!
April, next time use a 1/4 inch thick by 3 inch square metal plate at the top of the jack piston to keep it from digging into the wood once you start jacking the porch up.
WoW really....I'm from Texas too and if I'm supporting a huge double deck porch like that I'm going deeper and using footings, you are just doing a quick easy fix that will probably last 10-20 years if you are lucky but with that much weight deep set footings above ground with metal brackets are the way to go. Even if I was doing a good size deck I would probably do footing although they wouldn't need to be that deep. In south Texas we dig to the Caliche and then would dig past it a little just to be sure and it is a huge pain and hard going but needs to be done to do it right. Finally make sure the deck is NOT level it needs to slope away from the house a quarter to half inch is plenty but necessary.
does anyone drill holes in bedrock to epoxy rebar into to connect the bedrock and concrete footer.... this would protect against uplift in high winds...
You dig into bedrock to place these footings you’re talking about in your part of Texas? That’s what April has here, bedrock just bellow ground level.
Great solution to a common problem. You definitely found a couple of jacks big enough for the job! Thanks for sharing your step by step instructions for leveling a deck. Take care April. Certainly appreciate all you do!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Thanks! This gave me such a relief of perspective in terms of the minor problems I have with my deck!
I’m glad you explained the frontline situation and as well as the bedrock in your area. You tackle any job. I’m impressed!
Glad you liked it!
I've had similar struggles. I've starting pretreating my posts with a used motor oil/diesel fuel 1:1 mix. That's seemed to help. I have some cattle sheds to rebuild, so I have decided also that I'm going to pour a concrete casing and then use brackets to connect the posts from here on out. The water and manure mix is really hard on stuff.
Our deck is supported on cement filled ABS pipe - never any rot. Thx for all your content!
Your right there is a solution to what ever the problem is. The problem is coming up with the right solution.
In addition to the other comments about not putting the posts into ground, here in the southeast a lot of porches have that much slant (out of level) to allow water to shed during a storm.
This is a good point she really should not be making the porch level it should run away from the house definitely not the 3 to4 inches she was seeing but probably a good quarter to half inch.
Great fix, April. So important to pay attention to your structure. It may sound crazy but doing a walk around every month or two can discover and solve problems before they get out of hand.
Yes! That's a great tip too. Thanks for sharing and for watching.
Well done. We have been waiting for a video of you using the outdoor kitchen, cookout, giant deck,...
Absolutely great content!!!! Thanks for more great ideas, and jigs!!!! Always something going on at the homestead!!!!! Dave!
Thanks! Yes, it's always something, right? Thanks for watching.
Soo, ya had a tough day at work, came home and jacked the house up!! Very nice very nice!!
The beam will only last a few years and then rot again. On the one hand, because it is unprotected where wood transports water best. and on the other hand he is buried in the ground. In this way, it will always absorb moisture from the soil. Since it cannot dry off again in the ground, it rots again. It would be better if the beam would sit in a concreted steel beam (in Germany this is called "Balken-Schuh") or it would stand on a stone foundation with a moisture barrier. Of course, it would be better if it were additionally impregnated. I see your way of setting up a balk more often in videos from the States. But I don't understand why the rotten beam is replaced in the same way instead of being placed in such a way that it doesn't get wet again. In Germany you can find half-timbered houses that are 300-400 years old. And they consist of a wooden framework on a stone base, so that the base beam never has direct contact with the damp subsoil.
thoughtful
Absolutely agree with everything you said here.
As April said, her location in Texas has very shallow bedrock which makes digging a footer nearly impossible. The climate is very dry with brief, albeit torrential, rain showers and the soil dries out very quickly. What she has done will protect the most vulnerable part of the "POST" (not beam). The repair will last several decades. Keep in mind all this wood is Pine and not the white oak that would have been used 300 years ago in Germany. The repair will outlast the rest of the deck. In other parts of North America, particularly areas were soil frost is an issue, we dig a round footer below the frost line, insert a round form extended above ground level, fill it with concrete, then place the post on top of the footer in a structural steel cup that provides a moisture barrier. Similar to what you described.
@@scottsatterthwaite4073 the other reason for a heavy footer or a solid connection to bedrock is to prevent uplift in high winds from tornados and tropical storms.... don't know if these happen in texas, but that porch roof has a lot of area for wind to catch and tug.
@@peetky8645 That's a good point and it depends on the type of deck. Some areas allow floating decks that basically sit on top of the ground. There are also detached decks that are set on footers or have buried posts but are not physically attached to another permanent structure. What you are talking about is an attached deck where the ledger board is securely bolted to the rim joist of the attached structure. In high risk areas (tornado alley) many local codes want 6x6 posts secured to 18 inch concrete footers that extend 12 inches below the frost line and 6 inches above grade.
Concrete piers required. Post on top, not in the concrete.
Yep, they will still rot out with that plastic wrap, the bottom will still wick up moisture even in conc. You are 100% correct with the conc pier and metal post base. I think she got mixed up with fence posts
Yee Haa this is Texas??
How does that work with the bedrock?
Betonfundament 40x40 cm x80 tief. Simpson stützenfüsse und resistentes holz wie zeder. Auss einem Stück nicht zusammengefuscht👍👍🇩🇪
Ok… This is one of your MASSIVE projects April! You did an awesome job fixing it! 👏👍😃
Thanks so much!
I had the same issue, on a much smaller scale, and I brought the footing above grade then used galvanized brackets bolted into the footing to bring the post ends out of contact with the ground. The old posts lasted over 30 years so I’m not concerned with the new ones failing in my lifetime. Oh, I also put a piece of waterproof tape on the post bottom to help stop wicking. I live in Michigan so our requirements are significantly different than Texas.
Glad to see you again. When I put in my porch I used pipe sat in concrete that was 12 years ago and it has never been a problem. If the look is important just put boards around the pipe and fasten them. You get the wood look without actually supporting weight. This video gave me an idea for a project so Thank You for the inspiration. 👍❤️
April, *please add lateral bracing*. You've created a hinge point, and the 2x6s help, but consider in the wind, there may be 10s of thousands of pounds of force going laterally, especially in Texas. Consider getting an engineer to do a lateral analysis, or at least make a recommendation. I would add about 10 16d nails or wood screws to the top and bottom of the 2x6s, or maybe a few lag screws. Just imagine about 1000 pounds of force trying to push your deck sideways, and you can see the problem.
Do you think the porch was built originally with a little pitch away from the house to shed rain water?
I like the fact that you are on Bed rock it makes it so much easier to set your posts and I like the sleeves for the posts I will have to look for them here in Canada thanks
I just set a few post for a gate that I made to my deck. I used “Blackjack waterproofer”. I painted the bottom of each post and 5 inches above grade. Then sloped concrete like you did.
A good video and I did not know about the post sleeves. Setting posts and porch repair is a never ending chore on the farm. Good ideas,
I've used them for several projects for years now and have no regrets. I love their products. Thanks for watching.
I think it's best to pour a solid footing (sonatube or similar) and either embed a post base in the wet concrete or anchor one after the concrete has cured, then set the post on the post base. The post won't take on [as much] water and is easily replaced if needed a decade or two from now.
thanks again APRIL for sharing another video keep on rocking and be safe
Thanks! And thanks for watching.
April, I typically install posts using a healthy coating of cold-set or roofing tar painted onto the bottom section the post (the section that will be underground plus about 8 inches that will be above ground). I use aluminum flashing to make a belt or cuff that is stapled around the painted zone - beginning above the ground and extending below ground. That way the aluminum cuff protects the asphalt coating and gets encased in the concrete base that the goes around the post in the ground and extends about a couple of inches above ground. The asphalt coating lasts a long time and seems to inhibit rot. The metal cuff helps protect the post from grass trimmers, etc. I’m not sure if this works in your area, but it seems effective in the soil in my area.
Of course, as others have advised, a proper concrete footing would be best way to keep the load-bearing wood posts out of moisture and rot organisms.
Another great video! Thank you, April!
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching.
Glad you caught it when you did April. Now get the rest of the posts taken care of before they rot too. Thanks for sharing with us. Fred.
Thanks! Yep, it will take a min to replace them all but well worth the effort. Thanks for watching!
I don't understand. You wrapped around the post but what about the edge of the post which is in direct contact with the ground? It's just going to rot again?
I just had to make this repair on my 2004 built house. Wraparound porch with 18 posts. There was almost nothing left below ground. I poured concrete pillars and used galvanized brackets. I’ll never have wood contacting the ground again.
Wood does not last when in the ground. You need concrete piers in the ground with the wood sitting on it above the ground, and plenty of drainage, so the ground doesn't soften and settle. There are codes for deck construction here, and the inspectors would never accept what you are doing.
She’s in tx buddy. We don’t need all that red tape just to make the deck posts outlast the house. What’s she’s doing will perfectly suffice.
Yeah that is what i am used to as well, doing it like that feels like a project wating for the tree to mold. Even doing it like she is, there is a risk that the wood will rot after a time. I dunno, can't say much about the moisture out where she lives, but out here that would have to be replaced at the latest 5-7 years. Taking the plastic into account when i say that.
BS.. Posts in the ground will outlast the house.
Be intrigued to see how this solid Texas stone softens and settles 😂😂
@@boobacockaa That was sorta my point, that the bedrock isn't going to soften and settle and so yes, timber on rock = timber on concrete so it's not going to go anywhere.
April Wilkerson is my favorite
Aw, thanks!
Good advice on tackling it one at a time. I often talk myself out of big projects because I see them as too big.
And I completely agree with you on Ariat boots for women! My favorite work boots ever!
Awesome! Yes, it's easy to get overwhelmed when looking at all at once. Yes, Ariat is the best. The shirts are soft and comfortable and have a great fit. Thanks for sharing and for watching.
This video came qt the right time! My porch needs this same fix now. :) thanks
Awesome! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
"Just like eating an elephant, one bite at a time." This saying certainly reminds me of you.
You ain't afraid of any project! You'll build houses, shops, decks, furniture.....anything! We never know what we will see when we click April, but we know that the project will be well done and that we will learn something new. Thanks for the video and lesson.
Aw thanks! I appreciate your kind words. Thanks for watching.
You're quite welcome. I sleep in a bed built from your plans and it is flanked by side table that you designed. When I win the lottery, I'll build a shop just like yours. A man can dream, can't he?
PS: My wife calls you my Texas girlfriend and each Sunday she asks me what your project of the day is.
Great job ! Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge !
Glad you enjoyed it!
April,
Thank you for sharing your very well done video!
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video. Your videos are getting better and better. The little video clips you put in at different places are a very nice touch.
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed it.
Cool to see your process here April! Tackling these big jobs can seem daunting at times (for me at least 😉👍)
Good you find the problems, Thanks for sharing that!
Thanks for watching!
Marvellous work April
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
@@AprilWilkerson I always enjoy your videos. For many years now 👌
Hey, April! Been there, done that. TWICE! Of course it was only one story and only half the length but yeah, almost the same principles. One open air and the other has louvered windows. THAT ONE was fun! UGH! Anyway, thatnks for sharing ANOTHER great video! Keep 'em coming! God bless.
Oh wow! Yes, I bet that was a fun time! Thanks for sharing and for watching.
We had the same problem (also in Canyon Lake). Our posts were captured on the bottom by steel fixtures, which were then bolted to concrete. But the rot still happened. We did a similar repair: Cut out about three feet from the bottom and replace with fresh wood. In our case, we also boxed in the bottom with still more wood to help shed water away from the base and to conceal the new joint. And of course we caulked it all.
Be careful. You might get rot between the two pieces of wood.
I am always impressed by the lifting power of those small jacks.
Right? It's crazy how much they can lift. Thanks for watching.
Jimmy Diresta just did some videos on the same problem with his porch. If you have wooden porches, now would be a good time to go outside and check them for rot 👍👍👍👍
Yes, I know, I'm an Italian and therefore I think with different ideas from yours; but how about making metal bases (8-10 mm thick) drowned in concrete but protruding from the ground, on which the pillars of your buildings directly rest? it could always happen that you have to replace a weakened pillar but the job would be much easier
👍
We do that where I am. They make special brackets for that.
I was thinking similarly. There are a lot of steel places in TX where you could pick up some hefty steel tube, beams, etc at not much more above $/lb. I think thats not wood, so she went with what she knows. This'll probably last another 10-15 years, however that foundation has lost a lot of its lateral strength.
Simpson makes post bases that do what I think you’re talking about. Many other comments recommending it as a best practice.
No matter what you do, when you put wood at/near the dirt surface, you're going to lose the wood sooner or later. Elevating the bottom of the post (and using steel ties) on a concrete pier/footer/footing is the accepted practice, and usually a requirement for a permit. The details will vary a little with the region and AHJ; I think it's 6" above dirt level here. There's just too much chemistry (literally) between wood and dirt.
Rot is funny, especially when it is completely invisible. Had porch railings that look perfectly fine on the outside. Until one day you could poke your finger straight through it. Completely rotten on the inside, 100% perfection on the outside.
Sounds like termites.
@@imhooks Just normal wood rot. Dont have termites here. But i think it could look similar.
@@JoriDiculous Interesting. Wood rot is usually visible on the exterior. That's why I figured it was termites as they stay on the interior of what they are feasting on.
@@imhooks yeah, that's what was so weird about it. No sign on the outside at all, and no "critters" on the inside.
Best quote ever (just like eating an elephant one bite at a time) I'm going to Nick that and use it a lot. Great video with some very useful tips looking forward to watching the rest
Thanks!
Where I am the code requires concrete above ground and then a metal separator above that and then the post. It is a bit expensive and a pain to set metal in concrete, but it does last. I know some places the post in ground can work but I think maybe not in your area, since those did rot out.
Nice work but I always use galvanized post holder for any 4x4 posts, I also live in Texas and have several post installed 25 years ago still in good condition when not buried in the ground.
I have been waiting to see you do a video like this one, this gives me ideas on what to do now for my moms house. cause the front of the house at her home, is falling due to the fact of rot in the post mixed with old termites. I been trying to figuer out what to do for that sisutation. It used to be a porch but it got converted into a inclosed porch and then added onto the house as another extension room to the living room. But after this and seeing this. I might have an idea on how to tackle this job. Thank you so much to giving me ideas. Now time to wait till the summer heat cools down so I can start fixing it.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing and for watching.
The wood will just rot above that sleeve. The bottom of the post can and will suck up water that will exit the post above the sleeve and rot it out there. Your better off using a tall bracket and a concrete tube to make a above ground connection.
Thanks April. I think you're awesome.
Aw thanks!
nice job April. I enjoy your videos!
April i love 💕 your works
I first saw this in some of your IG stories, so naturally I had to watch the video. Watched it twice in fact, and the only problem I see is you can only fix one post at a time because you only have two bottle jacks. Then again, doing one post at a time might turn out to be the best way to ensure the end result fits the criteria of "If it looks straight...it is straight".
what a house. Love it
OMG April, I just ate an elephant- I encapsulated my crawl space, it took me 2 months, (sealed foundation cracks, fixed broken joist, got rid of mold and humidity, reworked rain gutters, put electrical and drainage in space, and insulated) . I didn't think I could but then I did. You've helped to give me the confidence to tackle such large projects. Thank You for all you inspiration videos.
Awesome! Great job! Thank you for your kind words. Yes, I bet that was an elephant of a job but you didn't let the size of the job ward you off. Thank you for sharing and for watching.
I’ve heard that slight slope away from the house on the deck floor, especially on the 2nd floor is good. Like 1/8” or 1/16” per foot. Please let me know if that the case.
You could cover the ends of the wood with Flex Seal (spray on)
that would work very well
Generally, you don’t seal the bottom of most things in wooden construction so that there’s a path for any moisture to drain out.
Nice video April! Thank you for sharing with us!💖😎👍JP
Hello Apryl! You Americans are in the habit of using the solutions, which are surely the fastest and easiest! But, I spice to tell you, they are not always the best! Put a pole with the heartwood, and this will inevitably crack, then putting screws that without pre-drilling will soon make things worse! Then at the base, it is where the tree, and therefore your beam drinks, and the coating on the outside, is of little use! If you look at how long I have subscribed to your channel, you will understand that I have been a fan of yours for a long, long time, and my comment is not a free criticism, but a tip from a passionate fan! I hope I have not offended anyone with my comment! 🤗🤗💙💙🤗🤗
Oh? Do you eat elephants??? LOL! Awesome repair content!
Wondered if you considered using a half-lap joint between the existing and the new wood?
Only 19 times, Love it!!! :)
Always a joy to catch you up to your latest! A few thoughts, though; first, I have some experience with barns and similar in the North Texas area, and I was a plumber by trade 40 years ago. Not putting the wood into the ground at all was a better way- easier with options available today, also, my thought for a set of distant level points would have been a tight string line, the laser is nice but as you noted, there are several ways to skin that cat. But you absolutely did show how possible leveling for homeowners often can be- slab on grade gets into some risks an "average" homeowner might not prudently take- an INSURED home foundation company is the answer. The Shed looks to be a rockin' operation- happy trails on that and all endeavors! FR
A water level is super cheap and easy only cost is for clear poly tubing long enough to reach between the two places. Mostly fill it with water without any air bubbles. The water in the two ends will always be at the same elevation. Always and exactly.
A. Beautiful home April. B. That’s an awesome deck.
Thank you!
I would've put a sono tube and created as short concrete pillar then used a steel anchor for the wood post. Its best to keep the wood away from the ground.
That would have been an interesting video. Use the sono to make several concrete forms from which to make a bunch of concrete footers. Get them pre-made so you can jack, cut existing, slide in footer with a wet crete base to secure it, and let it sit in a strong-tie post base.
Great info and a good solution.
Glad it was helpful!
That house is colossal 🙈
Question. You protected the sides of the post but not the bottom where it will wisk up moisture. Do you do anything else to the bottom before setting?
You should not set a wood posts in concrete like this. Yes treating the bottom with something to prevent moisture wicking would help it last a couple years longer but not long enough. What she should have done was pour a concrete footing with metal post brackets set in them to attach the pressure treated post to. She’ll be back doing this job again in 10-12 years to repair this work.
@@corydriver7634 thats what I was thinking too.
Just put a book underneath the post - it worked for my couch.
Valid
great video, I was worried for a second but then I realised there was a man supervising.
Hmm. That "man" is my Employee and a valued one yes, but it's my project, not his. Grow up and come into 2022. I research, consult experts if needed and am always confident in my projects before starting, whether I have a man around or not.
Fence Armor is Awesome! I was fortunate to WIN a giveaway from them that you posted with them. It was a month or so ago. Their products are very well thought out. 📦🎉😊
Awesome! Congratulations! Yes I love their Products and have used them now for years with no regrets. Thanks for sharing and for watching.
APRIL … we love 💚new tools that make the job easier
AND WE ENJOY AN UPLIFTING EXPERIENCE 😁
pun intended 🤗💚💚💚
Yes! Love it!! Thanks for watching.
I live in Texas and that repair would not pass minimum building code requirements I've done many repairs just like this and it's always the same problem wood in the dirt even ground contact pressure treated will fail pour concrete above grading then set posts in galvanized posts brackets building code compliance hope this helps
Wow! April is also part of the This Old House team 😃👷
😀 Nice Jay Bates inspired intro 😉
Another great video Ms April 👍🏼♥️
Thank you!
Hi April I would like to suggest you use a heavy duty driver to drive screws instead of a drill so you don’t twist your arm like you did there have been many people that have injured their arm from years of having it jerked by the drill
Great video again!
But I couldn’t help notice that the background blur from 1:16 onwards seems to be artificial and looks weird on larger monitors 😉
I think the video would look even better without it.
But other than that great work!
Cheers🎉
Put roofing tar to 3 inches above grade. I lost 1 post to rot after 40 years because it settled and the tar went below grade but the part covered by the tar was not effected.
Roofing tar is good, supposedly Liquid Rubber x3 coats when sticky around sides and bottom to 3" above grade is almost foolproof for 20+ years.
Your Amazing April and so talented love your videos!!!!and You!!!
Thank you so much!!
GOOD LUCK LADY KEEP US UPDATED
amazing work 👌🏻
How do you make sure you have the proper slope for water runoff? Hello from El Paso, TX!
I'm glad to see you use that way of repairing the post. I've used a Scarf joint for many repairs over my lifetime and they work very well. Why replace the whole timber or post if just a few feet are bad? Many people are quick to say , "That's not going to work" , ship builders have been doing that for ever.
Awesome! Your direction and cinematography has gone lightyears ahead of the YT pack. And you do great with the repairs, too.
Thank you for your kind words. I'm glad you enjoy my channel. Thanks for watching.
Wow. The deck and overhead roof certainly in trouble. The actual house?
Sempre acompanho seus vídeos top demais manda um salve pro Brasil !!!
Thank you for watching. Hello from Texas!
April, you're a badass!
Thanks!
Awesome house. Texas style.
Glad you like it!
@@AprilWilkerson Did u build it?
Great job!
Thanks!