How To Make Money with Your Laser - Personalizing Flasks
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- How To Make Money with Your Laser. Now that you bought it, how do you pay it off? Engraving flasks is super easy and makes money. Check out this easy way to make money with your laser.
Buster Beagle 3D (Spoiboard and feet):
• XTOOL D1 Laser Foot Br... l
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DISCLAIMER:
Working with Fire, lasers, Electricity and Power Tools is extremely dangerous. Please use caution if you are attempting anything in these videos.
Also, please drink responsibly.
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USED IN THIS VIDEO (affiliate links):
6oz Coated Metal Flasks (20 pcs)
amzn.to/3nELkIp
8oz Stainless Steel Flasks (20pcs)
amzn.to/3Ap5UBP
Dry Moly Lube:
amzn.to/3FFilKs
xTool:
store.xtool.co...
Use Promo Code: BDBXTOOL for 8% off
Aefuro Laser 2:
s.zbanx.com/r/...
Melamine Sponges:
amzn.to/3nFwdhJ
Link to all my tools:
www.builddadbu...
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MUSIC:
Chtulthu (Loop)
#builddadbuild #laser #xtoold1 #flasks
Better yet, my wife bought me the laser and said, you'll figure it out. And darned if she wasn't right. Lol
Right on!
Cheers
For those who don't to use thinner at all because of the fumes on the stainless steel, use alcohol it comes right off and for the fun of it, I tried with Dominican Rum, works like charm 😀. Thank you for another video!
Good to know!
Cheers
That's alcohol abuse...LoL
@@michaeldewild718 I like to work with rum, sometime i use with the laser.
Dominican rum is the best..Brugal
@@jesusadames1130 Couple of decades ago or maybe longer, the best used to be Barceló Añejo, yes Brugal is King!
What process did you use to make the stainless steel flask dark as black.. you did not tell.. is this cermark ?
Enduramark
With lightburn xtool 20 w D1 pro , speed 1800 power 50 ? thank
What were your settings? I'm using lightburn with Atomstack A5 M50. Oh ya, I'm a rookie at this.
Thanks for helping me with my xtool the other day. You Rock
Sure thing, Niki!
Cheers
That lube can be found at auto stores, hobby shops, and some gun shops may have it. Amazon is great, but always try to buy local. Great info by the way brother, keep it up
You have clap button cover fantastic....stl file?
The sound when you test fire the Ortur laser and it engraved the line😂
Dude I have been watching your vids all day.. my Xtool D1 should be here Momday so by next Friday I should have something ready to show..we shall see if my 3rd grade edumaction pays off or not. Keep up the great work!
The learning curve is pretty easy for the D1!
Good luck and happy laserin'!
Cheers
Just got my Xtool D1 and I am fresh out the water.
Dang lazers! I'm still mastering the wood CNC... ;)
But I got Bourbon... :)
That's all that matters...LOL
@@BuildDadBuild Cheers!
I am wondering why flat black spray paint is not used? Would be easily removable with acetone?b I've got to think that was tried at some point
Try it! 👍🏻
@@BuildDadBuild I'm new to the laser world, just bought my first, one and only so far, laserpecker2 last week. My comment wasn't meant to sound "know it all" but I see those laser sprays are expensive and as for the moly spray, I'm not familiar with it. Does spray paint work? Sorry for the newb question as maybe this is a known to experienced laser jockeys.
I guess I'm a long way down in the comments now, But .... Does anyone in the UK have either an alternative to the Dry Moly, or a source that isn't costing £70 for a tin?.
I don’t hVe a good alternative to you…sorry brother.
I love my coated metal flasks from Amazon.
Yeah! Great deal, right?
Cheers
Thanks for the shout out! Always enjoy your content and also always get a kick out of it when my stuff is useful to someone.
Cheers, brother! Love your content.
Awesome video. Love my ortur master 2 but I’m getting a 80W fiber to get into some serious metal art and deep engraving. Uncoated stainless steel hip flask is definitely on the going fast list
Don't forget to factor in the sales taxes that you paid, it is part of your overhead/costs. And your tests are business losses, so they're tax deductible.
Does anyone know a dry moly lube alternate? I am over in Japan and sadly the stuff costs $80 for one spray can 😭
I urge you to never take the guard off and then point the laser at something shiny, great way to destroy your eyes. Aside from that great video.
Great video thank you. I saw another video where he lit a candle under the metal and it was coated with the black soot which worked great and easy to wipe off.
What machine did you use for this? Looking to invest
xTool D1
Is there anyway that I can send you a picture of my engraved flask?
Highly recommend the Enduramark Blu spray for cleaning the coated metal after engraving. Quick, easy, and shiny results. (I'm not affiliated or have any interest in the company. Just sharing what I've found that works.)
Funny....Enduramark just sent me out some products to try!
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild have your tried the enduramark laser spray on the stainless steel using the D1?
I tried dry moly but limited (think I need thicker coat)
@@cynthiasparks7545 Yup. Works great! Try promo code BUILDDADBUILD for 20% off
YOU should get S30 pro with the automatic air assist .
Seeing that it takes like 20 mins for the coated one, how much do you charge for a flask? If you don’t mind.
I don't sell them.
@@BuildDadBuild I understand. Well done again.
Hey...I just wanted to thank you. As i am new to laser engraving i was wanting to do tublers and everyone i found suggest a spray for stainless steal a blacken spray that cost a small fortune. Thanks to you i am now engraving tumblers. 2 videos and 3 experiments later im engraving and believe me...if you can teach me tech you can teach pigs to write a book 🤷♂️
Thanks!
What was your settings for the stainless flask ?
If I don’t say it in the video I don’t remember. That was like 2 years ago. I’d suggest running a speed and power grid.
Hi I am a new beginner so excuse me for the noob question, but I thought the xtool D1 runs on either lightburn or Xtool creative space software, but I like what you are using it seems simple. Can you use Laserbox as a control sowftare, or just design and then import it to Xtool creative space é lightburn? Thank you!
Laserbox Basic is no longer viable.
FYI: I was going to subscribe to your channel but there are way too many Shorts. I hate those in my subscription feed. No hard feelings, just thought you might like to know that some people despise Shorts.
I understand. Unfortunately UA-cam is really trying to push that format and is after creators to make more of them.
Cheers
Hello I have a question. I'm hoping you would have an answer to. So I will have the M1 by Xtool. Do you think this method your doing will work with the M1? Thanks Shar
It should. It’s a 10 watt diode laser. That being said I do not have the M1, so I can’t say for sure.
Cheers
You're engraving time was faster than actual time. My first one estimated time was 11 minutes and real time is a couple hours. Do I have an issue? Also, yours look completely black until cleaned and mine just need a few wipes to clean it up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Engraving time is going to vary from image to image. The time estimate is never right!
Cheers
I have noticed on my d1 that when I position the cross and frame my image or text it shows correctly for my project but when it burns it's always off to the right never dead on like you show, why is that? Thanks again for your help.
I feel like that had something to do with a software update. Check out your version. If you're running anything over V 1.2.0 unistall and reinstall the stable version:
support.xtool.com/hc/en-us/articles/4408889202199-Software-for-xTool-D1
Cheers
Awesome content mate keep it up. Do you run air assist and how often do you clean the head? I’m running a 20w D1 pro, just starting out but having a great time with it
Always run air assist. Clean to unit weekly.
Could you do a stainless with the frist machine? To see the difference in the 2 machines. I bought the frist machine and I’m curious. I really enjoy you videos.
Which machine are you referring to? The Aufero or the xTool D1?
First off, been enjoying your Chanel. 2nd, what were your final settings on power and speed? I grabbed some of the Moly Lube but my burns are not that dark when finished. Thanks for any help
I think I was running the stainless steel settings, but not positive
Can I do the same engraving with my XTool M1? I am learning how to use it. I am looking to engrave flask for Xmas gifts.
Don't see why not.
If that flask is kind of a parody than that means you can sell it without copyrights? xD Because the parody should be copyright free :P
Yes and no. The Halloween one is not my artwork. However I did purchase it for use.
Cheers
Just curious why you didn’t use the xtool to etch or engrave the stainless steel flask? I’m trying to engrave stainless steel charms about 1-2” rounds but when I process it they come out very pale and a little bluish would my settings be off?
I was just trying to show different lasers in use. Normally I engrave all my stainless on the D1.
Cheers
I think my laser is too weak. I tried 3 times and no luck.
5 watt diode @ 900 mm/min 80 % power
X2 no luck
Am I beating a dead horse?
I don't think so. I'm running 100% at 12mm/s (so 720 mm/min). I think you're moving too fast.
First off great video. I noticed when marking my SS flask that the area marked has a little bit of warping to the steel. I tried it again with the flask filled with water and there was a lot of popping and fizzing but it came out the same and no warping. Any reason I should not do this?
Not that I know of.
Do you prefer the results with Eduramark or Dry Moly most? I see the Enduramark is more expensive but less prep work and Dry Moly is more prep but much less expensive.
Enduramark. Hands down. The time it saves is worth the money.
If you want to check it out use Promo Code: BuildDadBuild for 20% off all products
Cheers
“I never dreamed about success. I worked for it.” -Estée Lauder
Exactly!
So what are the settings for the Ortur you would recommend for the stainless steal? Great video thank you....
You’d have to run. Speed and power grid.
I found the dry moly lube at my local NAPA store. Just an fyi. Love this Channel!!!
Thanks Jess!
Heya. I am having trouble finding crc dry moly local. Can I use another coating for regular stainless steel?
I'm not sure. At least that's not expensive! Try tractor supply places, auto parts stores, and boat places...
awesome video,,,, You just got another subscriber I have the Ortur LM2
Sweet! And welcome!
Cheers
what size diode did you use on the last stainless engrave and at what power and speed, that would be great info, thank you.
10w. Stainless Steel settings.
I am currently trying to build the MK II injection molding maching that buster beagle had on his channel.
Sweet
Sorry if this has been asked, but what did you clean the stainless with after engraving?
Lacquer Thinner
what settings did you use for coated (black) and stainless flask?
Painted Metal settings in Laserbox
Thanks, but what were the settings on the D1 for the stainless? and was it a 20w D1?
The 10W. and this was over a year ago, I don’t recall the settings.
So the ending the stainless was the d1 with a 10 watt laser?
yes
@@BuildDadBuild thanks for reply sir. I may bug you for more pointers. I just purchased the xtool d1 10 watt and not sure what it is capable of.
Have you ever had your stainless steel flask dent where you engraved?
No.
Thank you for the video. I know this is not a latest video, but I do go back and forth to it for reference. Do you have an ideal setting for speed and pwer to start with for Atomstack A5 pRO, 10OZ STAINLESS Steel Flask.
I don't. I don't use atomstack's products.
@@BuildDadBuild do you have anyone that can assist with providing information as such. Not being funny but many people starting out are using Atomstack because of the starting prices and there is a big environment out there that would like the same information.
Hey ! I found that same moly lube at my local Grainger ! Keep on etching !
Awesome. Never thought of looking at Grainger.
Cheers
Do you have to trace the png to get the laser to cut it?
Not necessarily. Depends on the design. Speed and power are what is going to determine if you cut or engrave.
Thank you for responding
Where do we find the grid you had there? Awesome video
There's a few different grids in this folder.
drive.google.com/drive/folders/10Opcir8qNVQ54swBGGp7Ua4gEKTrFa3Y?usp=sharing
Cheers
What did you use to clean the stainless with the moly lub? Thanks
Hey Mike!
I used lacquer thinner.
Cheers
Yo this is absolutely amazing! I just got a 10w laser, I'm trying to engrave enameled bottles for my friends. Do you have recommended settings for power and speed?
I am not familiar with that material. I’d have to run a power grid.
@@BuildDadBuild pretty grid?
Will the X1 do the stainless also? Curious why you used the other laser.
The other laser was available. LOL The D1 definitely marks stainless.
Cheers
Can you engrave on a full liquor bottle ? Or an unopened Soda can ?
Sure can!
Awesome videos. You should get the M1, since it is the one with the least videos. Been trying to apply some of your videos techniques to the M1 laser. How you cleaned the dry moly lube? Can you use Dry moly lube on tumblers?
I love the M1. I honestly just haven't had enough time to play with it.
I clean the dry moly with acetone. And yes you can use dry moly on tumblers.
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild Thank you for the info. Keep those videos coming :-)
Could you do a video on cutting Kaizen foam with the X1. Not much out there on this topic, but would be incredibly useful for making custom Pelican cases / tool organization. Thanks. Love the channel!
I think you'd run into a thickness issue. You'd only be able to get about 10mm before the laser focus would be off...
Cheers
What setting used? Thanks good video
Coated metal for the coated one and Stainless Steel for the other.
@@BuildDadBuild 100 power ? 50 speed / 200mpi?
I’ve tried using rust-oleum white and galva zink both came out a really faded mark does dry molly make a difference?
Dry Moly for the win with stainless....I tried cold galvanizing compound and got so so results.
Cheers
👍🏻 thanks
Isn't it easier to center by cutting outline in the paper and just position the object in that outline and than remove the outline from laser layer and boom your have centerest object to every mm.
You do you, homie! 👍🏻👍🏻
@@BuildDadBuild Sure Everyone has it's own style :) Still have to learn a lot and you provide excellent content. Keep growing.
1st time getting a laser engraver i got a Latitool F50 we are also using laser GRBL been watching your videos and trying to figure ours out lol they cant be to much difference any tips on what to use like have u ever tried laserGRBL or used a latitool engraver any kind of help would be great thank you very much
Sorry. Was never a fan of l
laserGRBL so I never used it.
@@BuildDadBuild ok thank you like I said im new so what do you use i tried lightburn but was lost what program do you use sorry for all the questions
I use Lightburn. There’s a beginner setting that makes it less intimidating
Hmmmm. I could use a flask for wine 🍷.
Hmmmm....wine flask?
does the xTool D1 come with Lightburn software?
It does not come with it. You need to purchase Lightburn separately (after the 30 day free trial)
@@BuildDadBuild do you have a link for Lightburn?
You can also cut out the feet with the laser.
Yup... figured that one out after the video! LOL
So the end result looked great on the stainless. You swapped lasers. My question, can the Aufero Laser 2 do that also. I was so interested in the result but a different laser was used in the end. Thanks!
You could get a similar result with the Aufero...it would just take a little longer.
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Thank you; i was thinking the same question!
Thanks for all your videos, my D1 will be here on the Feb. 1st!
That's awesome, Mike!
You'll dig it!
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Three ish weeks since I got my D1 and maaaaan! I've used it everyday and almost have it paid for. Whats your take on the 20watt??
Another great video fellah!
Thanks, Brent!
Cheers
Have you tried wd40 ptfe dry lube? I wonder if it works. I can't find dry moly near me and it appears to be sold out on Amazon.
Just looked and it’s $14 a can on Amazon…
Not sure about your local store but I did find it at my local oreillys
It's my understanding that auto parts stores carry it.
I found mine at a grainger and Napa, only places near me that Carried it in stock
Can you use these to cut foam? Or would it just melt? I have a foam cutting table, but if you could use this to cut out shapes from foam to frame items, that would be pretty neat-oh.
I haven't personally do it, but I know you can cut EVA foam.
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Alrighty. Well i think i’ll give it a try when my unit arrives, if It works i’ll reply again. Thanks for answering
@@teslal.davidson8222so, did it work?? :)
Just bought this laser engraver. Never done this kind of stuff in my life. Wish me luck lol.
Good luck, brother!
Cheers!
Also check out their Facebook group:
facebook.com/groups/xtoold1
@@BuildDadBuild thanks. I will
@@StephanLamar81 how’s it going with your new laser
@@colourmein1425 I’ve used it 5 times so far, 3 failed projects, 2 successful. User error. Waiting on cold galvanizing compound to try and etch on glass. I like it so far.
Have you tried to laser engrave on slate coasters?
Yes. Works awesome!
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Awesome. My Xtool D1 is on its way as we speak.
Have you ever done any pew pew parts and would you ever do a video on it thank you
I have not. In order to mark pews you need your FFL.
Cheers
Or other parts that you don't need a license, uppers or buffer tubes with the same coating on it thank you buddy
@@nicholasweseman9704 I have not.
great ideal, good job
Thank you! Cheers!
Love the blooper lol
LOL
Thanks for another awesome and informative video! Rock on
Thanks, Bryan!
I’m having problems with the stainless what are the setting for the stainless steel
With the D1, what were the settings you used? I keep having the dry moly remove after engraving. Thank you for your time.
The settings for stainless steel
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild it happened to me too, even in the stainless steel settings.
I will try with more layers of moly🤞
@@daisgu so how did it go?
@@mariewood8267 it was my mistake. It does works as he shows. The portion I tried to do was aluminum. (It never occurred to me it had some parts of stainless steel, like the rim and bottom portion, and some aluminum)
@@BuildDadBuild Have you run this process with LightBurn? I'm having an issue with the 30oz Yeti Stainless Steel tumbler. Dry moly (with some work) rubs off after marking. I've tried 500mm/min @100% and even 180mm/min @100% and same results. Pointers?
My Xtool D1 and first set of flasks arrived today. Setup was as quick & painless, and your walkthrough made it easy. Thanks for all the hints!
You're welcome!
Cheers!
did it come with lightburn?
sometimes when I do insulated water bottles, the laser etched part doesn't come out silver. The exact settings on one bottle may result in nice results and other times it looks like there still a tiny bit of paint left. Any advice? I'm at 100% at 2.75 in/sec at 260 lines/in on a 10 W diode.
It might just be the color of the paint. They all react differently. And when you get closer to a blue color you'll notice discrepancies due to the color of the beam of the laser.
@@BuildDadBuild Ah! That makes sense. Thank you so much. BTW, you are a crack up.
Hey man, its me again :-) I did both of the flash, the black and the stainless steel. Did you face that too, that you get bumps and dents in the stainless steel flasks?I dont know if this happens because i didnt engrave it with the clasp open, so maybe it happens from the heated air in!? i really dont know, but the black coated ones came out fan-fucking-tastic
No bumps or dents in mine. Not sure what would cause that.
Cheers