I'm setting up as a vendor at a gaming convention in a couple months and was looking for some quick xtool ideas. This video came out at the perfect time.
@@BuildDadBuild Just a super local one. A friend of mine runs an e-sports thing at a local college and decided to organize a small gaming convention. I'm relatively new to my leatherworking, and bought an xtool D1 to further my creative process. I've seen all the other things I can make through your videos and the videos of others, and this convention is giving me a chance to branch out a bit.
@@BuildDadBuild Well, right now I'm looking at dice towers, boxes to hold RPG stuff, name tags for our gaming club (Made a couple, but the XTool D1 didn't quite manage to get through the cut on two passes, will try again with 3) and maybe even doing custom six-sided dice. Also, we've been playing with tumblers and stuff after watching previous videos of yours.
I really appreciate your videos. I just got into laser engraving. Started out with just coasters and am trying to get brave enough to start glass and tumblers. Thanks!!
Dropping the acceleration (different than just lowering the speed) helps tremendously on these hobby lasers. Not only can you get slippage on the rollers, you could actually skip steps or jump teeth on the belts. The acceleration on my sculpfun s9 out of the box was waaaaay too high for even basic engraving. Laser GRBL has a good utility for this and it’s free for those who don’t want to dive into lightburn just yet.
I wasn’t sold on the XTool D1 because most of the Facebook ads out there are gimmicks and I lost $7500 on a printer that was supposed to be the next big thing but it never worked right so I’m always hesitant on these things. Well I ordered this last night after watching all of your videos.
Dude! Great job on the video. You're comments are awesome and remind me of the military days. Just ordered the D1 10w full kit. Newbie, but You're videos are super freeking helpful. Even watched your tips. Great job. Definitely appreciated!
You have some great videos that I have been using for my own engraving. In Lightburn's machine settings, which min/max accelerations and idle acceleration do you change? What value should you lower them to? I did not see that in LA hobby guy's videos.
Some links aren't working in your store, like the WEED burner? I like that gun torch though! 🤪 I also received the DRIVE you shared from another video, but do I download the file to use it? Don't want to make a mistake. Bet you like the RA2. Get jiggy with it! 🤘
Great video! Thanks! However, what is missing from almost all of your videos is SETTINGS for the different kinds of materials. Keep up the good work but please write settings in the comments or say them in your videos.
@@BuildDadBuild Thanks for your answer! Of course it is different for different machines, but if you could share your setting for your machine. I also have a D1 10W and I think many of us use this machine. Can you write the settings for ceramic mugs used with the D1 10w that worked for you? I would appreciate it. Have a great day!
Hi!! Thanks for the video! Any chance you could share your settings for coffee mugs? Im using Creative Space, but I'll take lightburn too if that's what you're using - I'll be upgrading soon.
Thanks for this video, I watched it a couple time especially the last part on the mug. Still trying to wrap my head around how you did it. Maybe I’m just a little slow, So if you’re looking for another idea on a video I would suggest that also please. Thanks again I really do appreciate your videos on X Tools I feel I am getting a good grip on this machine not understanding why so many people are having a problem other than just not actually using it. Thank you, Larry
Question; on 3:49 the old version used to have the “cylinder enable”option which it was really nice. I updated on 12/2023 the new version of this program and that option isn’t there anymore. Now I can’t rotate the image I want to engrave on the tumbler. Any idea how on where it went? Thank you so much for you help!!
First off love your videos!!! Great content and entertainment to watch!! You’ve help me so much with tips and tricks! Thank you so much. So today I did two kodi cups. First one I did before seeing this video and didn’t know about slowing down the rotary. I’m using the new rotary Chuck attachment btw. The second cup I tested the framing like you talk about and it was just a hair off. Less than an 1/16 of an inch, but still off. So I slowed the rotation speed down, but it almost burned the cup I’m guessing bc it was moving the cup slower. Any thoughts on this?
@@BuildDadBuild I just tried a test with low power and painters tape on my bottle. The opening faced left, away from the power button, same direction as the art. So if your art faced towards the power button you are correct.
The lines can be from loose belts, speed too high, dirty rails, etc. The run time thing I think is an issue with the latest update that they are currently working to fix. Cheers
hoping you figured this out , i had same issue , thought mine was broken...turned out i was measuring wrong...i used the tape included and it would be 26 , so i kept inputting 26 mm , but it is NOT 26mm , its 260 !
I recently started etching a mug as a test with the RA2. The mug is a dark grey color. The ring on the bottom of the mug is a whiteish color so I am assuming the mug is also white under the grey glazing. When I run it, the etching comes out black and barely visible. I have etched dark grey tiles and the D1 cuts through the top glazing without issue to reveal the below color. Any ideas???
Man I just started watching your videos.. I just gotta say I love the content. The JOKES are on point and got me laughing.. I also found a new hobby with LASERS.. Keep the good content coming man.. Thanks for the entertainment.
Love your work. Can you recommend a brand of tumbler for engraving? I bought some in bulk and the coating is super thick, too thick. it’s almost black on black after I engrave it. Looks terrible. Specifically looking for stainless steel wine tumblers powder coated in black. I’d like the stainless to show clean through the black after I engrave it. Thanks in advance.
Kind of. If you're doing something like a beer stein, take the width of the cup plus the handle X2 and cut the outside of your jig to that measurement and the inside to the width of the cup. Make two of those, one for the to and one for the bottom. Those "jigs" will sit on the rotary. The reason I say kind of is your are then limited to the area between the two jigs because the laser will hit them. Or try something similar to this: ua-cam.com/video/WVjw9pMrmdA/v-deo.html Cheers
Thank you very much for all of the tips! I'm still running into the rotary tool ending in a different location when framing. Specifically on the rotary axis. It's a good inch off. I've slowed the speed, changed the image, tried the rotary and RA2 attachments, different objects, and all of your great tips. Any other suggestions or hidden settings? I'm using the D1 with Laserbox basic.
Hello, just got my D1 pro 20w and have done some tumblers with mixed results. Some are perfect and others looked like the metal is scorched? Any help on this?
In Laserbox Basic? Check the right of the screen, there should be some options to change text settings once its imported (or typed). Also check out the xTool D1 group. A lot of helpful folks in there. facebook.com/groups/xtoold1/ Cheers
It’s me again Margaret lol only ray stephens fans will catch that lol but anyway when you use ceramark do you use stainless setting or do you use coated metal thanks
Hey Nick, thanks for the goofy info.. was wondering if you could tell me how to etch glass and have it black, not white? If that's even possible. I don't find any video on this subject when I search. Thanks man.
Nick, so appreciate all your content. I have been following and trying many of your tips, tricks, etc. I am currently having an issue with tumblers with my Xtool D1 10w with Rotary and laserbox. When I center my cross hairs to start my burn, my image is not centered where I intended it to be, it is off about 1/2" each time. I have verified my origin in design, lined it up with where I want it to be on tumbler. Is there possibly a setting I am missing? Is there something I am doing wrong?
After watching your tips again (4th or 5th) time, and reading the below comments, wanted to also say that my gantry speed is set to 20mm. I've even went as far as framing (2x +), ensuring I like, then lining my marks back up and hitting start.....still the same thing.
How do you get the different colors on the mug? The blue one you showed was a black engraving and then the black mug was a white engraving. We’re you using enduramark for those? Also, we’re you just using the normal ceramic settings? Thanks in advance. Love the dad jokes.
When I engrave the painted tumbler, I get a shaded background how do I get that colored shade gone so I just have what I want engraves with no shaded area. Thank you Ed
Only on white mugs. I use Enduramark's glass and ceramic spray. If you want to check it out, here's a discount code: enduramark.com/ Promo Code: BuildDadBuild for 20% off all products Cheers!
I have a question a friend of mine got the xtool d1 pro and it’s basically a brick no where in book did it say to download xcs software that I could find but everytime you turn it on it locks up you can’t move it at all when you turn machine off you can move it and it will not upgrade
Can you please explain the difference in the speed settings under the engraving tool on the main screen vs when you select the start engraving button and it takes you to the working speed pop up screen? Hope that makes sense.
The speed on the pop up screen is just the gantry speed when the laser is not on. Like when you frame, if you make that number higher the frame will run faster. You want to slow that down if you're doing tumblers... Cheers
Hey Pat! If you want to join my Patreon campaign here's the link: www.patreon.com/BuildDadBuild Or if you want to support the channel by purchasing merch here's that link: www.builddadbuild.com/store Cheers!
I was trying to etch a detailed celtic knot circle and lost a lot of detail even though I had the settings for detail high. Is there anything I can do to get better results? I can send you a copy of the image for you to try.
So … it may be mentioned in the contents but that would mean I’d have to read them and well I’m not going to 😅 you mentioned to use a stick to help with the handle but then just moved on. Am I missing something here ?
the hobby guy doesn't explain the gantry speed. he only explains the fast whitespace. (which is not the same thing) I am still trying to figure this out.
I just recently hooked up my XD15 W laser engraver it is moving framing everything but it will not engrave it moves but it will not engrave like delays or is not working it stays red am I doing something wrong thank you thank you in advance
I did the drop down and then tightened and then hold up the magnetic switch if that's what you're referring to if not any other help would be greatly appreciated
@@BuildDadBuild Have done custom powder coated tumblers for a while - laid vinyl graphics and powder coated over them on the tumbler - can't do fine detail though (smaller words, images, etc.) - am now following and plan to purchase the xTool for that purpose. Thanks.
The links to my other videos should be up now. I forgot to put them in when I uploaded the video. All the other links should be in the description. If they're not, please let me know what link you are looking for. Cheers!
Can you tell me what the settings were to get the ceramic to burn through to the layer below the glazing? I know it vaires from product to product, but i was going to try a lightburn material test. I think the actual engraving of the ceramic cup looks fantastic!
@@BuildDadBuild man! I gotta tell you. I get crap plates at $1 tree. Each one burns a little different. But the burn test did the trich to give me a great reference. When you expose the bare cooked clay under the glazing, do you protect it with something? Orherwise it just soaks up water. Btw; great videos! I learn a lot. Thanks for all you do
I'm setting up as a vendor at a gaming convention in a couple months and was looking for some quick xtool ideas. This video came out at the perfect time.
Sweet! Glad to help!
What convention?
Cheers
Hey, gaming stuff is what I'm looking to do as well!
@@colwebbsfmc Like what, if you don't mind my asking?
@@BuildDadBuild Just a super local one. A friend of mine runs an e-sports thing at a local college and decided to organize a small gaming convention. I'm relatively new to my leatherworking, and bought an xtool D1 to further my creative process. I've seen all the other things I can make through your videos and the videos of others, and this convention is giving me a chance to branch out a bit.
@@BuildDadBuild Well, right now I'm looking at dice towers, boxes to hold RPG stuff, name tags for our gaming club (Made a couple, but the XTool D1 didn't quite manage to get through the cut on two passes, will try again with 3) and maybe even doing custom six-sided dice. Also, we've been playing with tumblers and stuff after watching previous videos of yours.
I really appreciate your videos. I just got into laser engraving. Started out with just coasters and am trying to get brave enough to start glass and tumblers. Thanks!!
Awesome! You got this!!
What settings do you use for the ceramic mugs?
Dropping the acceleration (different than just lowering the speed) helps tremendously on these hobby lasers. Not only can you get slippage on the rollers, you could actually skip steps or jump teeth on the belts.
The acceleration on my sculpfun s9 out of the box was waaaaay too high for even basic engraving.
Laser GRBL has a good utility for this and it’s free for those who don’t want to dive into lightburn just yet.
I like all your ghetto jigs they are easy and practical and they can be made from scrap so easy
LOL That's how I roll!
Cheers
Cool. I’ll look into it and thank you so much for your fat response. Your videos are awesome!
I wasn’t sold on the XTool D1 because most of the Facebook ads out there are gimmicks and I lost $7500 on a printer that was supposed to be the next big thing but it never worked right so I’m always hesitant on these things. Well I ordered this last night after watching all of your videos.
Awesome. You’ll dig it!
Cheers
Dude! Great job on the video. You're comments are awesome and remind me of the military days. Just ordered the D1 10w full kit. Newbie, but You're videos are super freeking helpful. Even watched your tips. Great job. Definitely appreciated!
You have some great videos that I have been using for my own engraving. In Lightburn's machine settings, which min/max accelerations and idle acceleration do you change? What value should you lower them to? I did not see that in LA hobby guy's videos.
Thanks for these amazing tips! Exactly what I was looking for!
Some links aren't working in your store, like the WEED burner? I like that gun torch though! 🤪 I also received the DRIVE you shared from another video, but do I download the file to use it? Don't want to make a mistake. Bet you like the RA2. Get jiggy with it! 🤘
Perfect timing as my rotary tool for the D1 gets here tomorrow.
Awesome!
What settings do you use for your ceramic mugs?
Depends on the mug!
Thank you for the ring idea for tumblers
I watched 2 videos and bought one! Thank you for the information and inspiration!
Awesome!!
Thank you. I just ordered my stool 10 w bundle. I'm excited to make promo things for my husband's business and start a hobby business with it.
That's awesome!
Cheers
Great video! Thanks!
However, what is missing from almost all of your videos is SETTINGS for the different kinds of materials.
Keep up the good work but please write settings in the comments or say them in your videos.
That’s intentional. Different machines have different settings. Always better to find the best settings for your machine and the apps said technique
@@BuildDadBuild Thanks for your answer! Of course it is different for different machines, but if you could share your setting for your machine. I also have a D1 10W and I think many of us use this machine.
Can you write the settings for ceramic mugs used with the D1 10w that worked for you? I would appreciate it. Have a great day!
@@matebollobas8024 So it depends on the ceramic you use. ALWAYS run a speed and power grid on a new material to determine YOUR best settings.
@@BuildDadBuild Thanks for the tip! Keep up the good work!
Hi!! Thanks for the video!
Any chance you could share your settings for coffee mugs? Im using Creative Space, but I'll take lightburn too if that's what you're using - I'll be upgrading soon.
Thanks for the tips, love this format, simple and easy to follow !
Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you very much! Tip No. 3 saved me from engraving a mirror image on a mug!
Thanks for this video, I watched it a couple time especially the last part on the mug.
Still trying to wrap my head around how you did it.
Maybe I’m just a little slow, So if you’re looking for another idea on a video I would suggest that also please.
Thanks again I really do appreciate your videos on X Tools I feel I am getting a good grip on this machine not understanding why so many people are having a problem other than just not actually using it.
Thank you, Larry
Sure thing Larry. Stay tuned. There's something in the works!
Cheers
Thank you I learned some new things, keep them coming. Thank you
Sure thing! Remember to hit that subscribe button so you don't miss a video!
Cheers
Question; on 3:49 the old version used to have the “cylinder enable”option which it was really nice. I updated on 12/2023 the new version of this program and that option isn’t there anymore. Now I can’t rotate the image I want to engrave on the tumbler. Any idea how on where it went?
Thank you so much for you help!!
You need to change "Engrave Flat" to the rotary setting.
Ty so much for the vids! I've learnt so much from you so far
Sweet!
You're rule about not being a dick cracked me up. I just wanted to leave some appreciation and help with the algorithm. 👍🏻❤️
First off love your videos!!! Great content and entertainment to watch!! You’ve help me so much with tips and tricks! Thank you so much. So today I did two kodi cups. First one I did before seeing this video and didn’t know about slowing down the rotary. I’m using the new rotary Chuck attachment btw. The second cup I tested the framing like you talk about and it was just a hair off. Less than an 1/16 of an inch, but still off. So I slowed the rotation speed down, but it almost burned the cup I’m guessing bc it was moving the cup slower. Any thoughts on this?
If you slow the speed you also have to lower power.
Thank you! When you slow it down how much do you bring the power down?
Have the rotary facing the right way but then where does the top of the bottle go? Left or right?
Towards the power button...
@@BuildDadBuild I just tried a test with low power and painters tape on my bottle. The opening faced left, away from the power button, same direction as the art. So if your art faced towards the power button you are correct.
I’m getting a bunch of random lines in my tumblers. Any thoughts? Also, the run time is crazy long… like over two hours. Thanks for all the content!
The lines can be from loose belts, speed too high, dirty rails, etc.
The run time thing I think is an issue with the latest update that they are currently working to fix.
Cheers
hoping you figured this out , i had same issue , thought mine was broken...turned out i was measuring wrong...i used the tape included and it would be 26 , so i kept inputting 26 mm , but it is NOT 26mm , its 260 !
I recently started etching a mug as a test with the RA2. The mug is a dark grey color. The ring on the bottom of the mug is a whiteish color so I am assuming the mug is also white under the grey glazing. When I run it, the etching comes out black and barely visible. I have etched dark grey tiles and the D1 cuts through the top glazing without issue to reveal the below color. Any ideas???
It all depends on the underlying material of the mug. I've had the same thing happen.
@@BuildDadBuild I had a feeling that was the issue. Thx and I have gotten a lot out of your videos.
Man I just started watching your videos.. I just gotta say I love the content. The JOKES are on point and got me laughing.. I also found a new hobby with LASERS.. Keep the good content coming man.. Thanks for the entertainment.
Thanks Randy!
Cheers
Do you have to coat the mugs that are glazed blue or red etc? And what about white ceramic mugs, how are you coating that ?
I haven’t coated any mugs.
Could you please make a video more specific about the mugs with handel?
When I'm done testing different methods I'll put something together.
Cheers
Thanks it will be very appreciated
Love your work. Can you recommend a brand of tumbler for engraving? I bought some in bulk and the coating is super thick, too thick. it’s almost black on black after I engrave it. Looks terrible. Specifically looking for stainless steel wine tumblers powder coated in black. I’d like the stainless to show clean through the black after I engrave it. Thanks in advance.
Hey Jim,
These are the ones I use.
amzn.to/3AMhYim
They work great with the machine settings for coated metal in Laserbox Basic.
Cheers
Nice tips thanks for sharing 😁🛫
Any time!
Are there any tricks to get the cup Handel out of the way so you can get more coverage on the mug ?🤔😵💫🤯
Kind of. If you're doing something like a beer stein, take the width of the cup plus the handle X2 and cut the outside of your jig to that measurement and the inside to the width of the cup. Make two of those, one for the to and one for the bottom. Those "jigs" will sit on the rotary. The reason I say kind of is your are then limited to the area between the two jigs because the laser will hit them.
Or try something similar to this:
ua-cam.com/video/WVjw9pMrmdA/v-deo.html
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild thanks 🙏
Long shot but does anyone know what color the gray Ember smart mugs turn out? I assume either khaki, tan or blackish but I need to be sure.
Looking to figure out why the Laser keeps leaving lines in our tumblers any tips.
Increase your dpi or in Laserbox Basic your lines per mm
Thank you very much for all of the tips! I'm still running into the rotary tool ending in a different location when framing. Specifically on the rotary axis. It's a good inch off. I've slowed the speed, changed the image, tried the rotary and RA2 attachments, different objects, and all of your great tips. Any other suggestions or hidden settings? I'm using the D1 with Laserbox basic.
Just to weight it down and use rubberbands for traction.
@@BuildDadBuild just reinstalled the software and everything is working fine. Ah, the wonders of tech.
Hello, just got my D1 pro 20w and have done some tumblers with mixed results. Some are perfect and others looked like the metal is scorched? Any help on this?
Scorching usually means you’re running too hot or too slow.
Love your videos, I just got my D1 all set up but when i type or import words my type is italic
In Laserbox Basic? Check the right of the screen, there should be some options to change text settings once its imported (or typed).
Also check out the xTool D1 group. A lot of helpful folks in there.
facebook.com/groups/xtoold1/
Cheers
It’s me again Margaret lol only ray stephens fans will catch that lol but anyway when you use ceramark do you use stainless setting or do you use coated metal thanks
I ran a test grid. Not sure about Cermark, but Enduramark can mark much faster.
Tip 2 is the pro tip.
Hey Nick, thanks for the goofy info.. was wondering if you could tell me how to etch glass and have it black, not white? If that's even possible. I don't find any video on this subject when I search. Thanks man.
You need to use a transfer or marking spray. Check out Charcoal Glass by Enduramark. And use the promo code: SEXY15 for 15% off
@@BuildDadBuild lol... thanks...
@@BuildDadBuild you remind me of Dennis Hopper...lol
I enjoyed all of your "tips" haha didn't think to use a "fancy" jig for coffee cups! You had your rotary on 1 for the coffee cup?
Gantry speed? 20
100% power at 10mm/s
Cheers
Thoughts on buying the laser now or wait for the 20w version?
I haven't tried the 20w yet. But I'd pull the trigger on the 10w. Great machine. And you'll get an idea if you want the 20w power.
Cheers
Nick, so appreciate all your content. I have been following and trying many of your tips, tricks, etc. I am currently having an issue with tumblers with my Xtool D1 10w with Rotary and laserbox. When I center my cross hairs to start my burn, my image is not centered where I intended it to be, it is off about 1/2" each time. I have verified my origin in design, lined it up with where I want it to be on tumbler. Is there possibly a setting I am missing? Is there something I am doing wrong?
After watching your tips again (4th or 5th) time, and reading the below comments, wanted to also say that my gantry speed is set to 20mm. I've even went as far as framing (2x +), ensuring I like, then lining my marks back up and hitting start.....still the same thing.
If you're using the RA2 you need to update firmware. If you have the old one, you need to weight your project.
@@BuildDadBuild Will do this. Thank you for your response. I may even add the rubber bands just to give a little extra traction.
@@BuildDadBuild I have old one, almost bought RA2, but was like...not yet.
How do you get the different colors on the mug? The blue one you showed was a black engraving and then the black mug was a white engraving. We’re you using enduramark for those? Also, we’re you just using the normal ceramic settings? Thanks in advance. Love the dad jokes.
Most of the ceramic mugs are just the same settings and those colors are the ceramic underneath.
When I engrave the painted tumbler, I get a shaded background how do I get that colored shade gone so I just have what I want engraves with no shaded area.
Thank you
Ed
Either more power or slower speed
Hey Brother, did you use any additive spray to engrave the coffee cup? Thanks, Spike
Only on white mugs. I use Enduramark's glass and ceramic spray. If you want to check it out, here's a discount code:
enduramark.com/
Promo Code: BuildDadBuild for 20% off all products
Cheers!
Thank you for the words and code...I appreciate it!
I have a question a friend of mine got the xtool d1 pro and it’s basically a brick no where in book did it say to download xcs software that I could find but everytime you turn it on it locks up you can’t move it at all when you turn machine off you can move it and it will not upgrade
Oh the 10watt
XCS is in beta. You need to download Laserbox Basic in order to upgrade firmware, etc.
Can you please explain the difference in the speed settings under the engraving tool on the main screen vs when you select the start engraving button and it takes you to the working speed pop up screen? Hope that makes sense.
The speed on the pop up screen is just the gantry speed when the laser is not on. Like when you frame, if you make that number higher the frame will run faster. You want to slow that down if you're doing tumblers...
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild Thank you! I'm new to the xtool laser world & I love all of your videos. You're entertaining & you explain things soo well.
Can't find where I can pay to this channel can you send me a link
Hey Pat!
If you want to join my Patreon campaign here's the link:
www.patreon.com/BuildDadBuild
Or if you want to support the channel by purchasing merch here's that link:
www.builddadbuild.com/store
Cheers!
I was trying to etch a detailed celtic knot circle and lost a lot of detail even though I had the settings for detail high. Is there anything I can do to get better results? I can send you a copy of the image for you to try.
send me a pic nick@builddadbuild.com
So … it may be mentioned in the contents but that would mean I’d have to read them and well I’m not going to 😅 you mentioned to use a stick to help with the handle but then just moved on. Am I missing something here ?
You use it as a counterweight on the opposite side of the tumbler.
the hobby guy doesn't explain the gantry speed. he only explains the fast whitespace. (which is not the same thing) I am still trying to figure this out.
Let me know what you find out!
Cheers
I just recently hooked up my XD15 W laser engraver it is moving framing everything but it will not engrave it moves but it will not engrave like delays or is not working it stays red am I doing something wrong thank you thank you in advance
I think you are referring to your D1??
It sounds like you haven't focused the laser.
I did the drop down and then tightened and then hold up the magnetic switch if that's what you're referring to if not any other help would be greatly appreciated
I am not seeing the “cylinder working” box to click on is there something I’m missing ?
This is an old video. They’ve updated their software.
Would doing a mason jar be the same if there are flat sides?
You would need to figure a way to mitigate the flat sides, but yes.
Cheers
Could you laser engrave an acrylic water bottle with a logo? I'm wondering if that would work
Depends on the color and translucency. The more translucent the harder to engrave.
Cheers
Is there a way to slow down the rotary like u showed with lightburn instead?
There is. I mentioned it in the video. I just don't know a whole lot about it. But check the rotary settings.
Cheers
Can you download images from google and import them into the xTool D1 design area?
You sure can.
@@BuildDadBuild Have done custom powder coated tumblers for a while - laid vinyl graphics and powder coated over them on the tumbler - can't do fine detail though (smaller words, images, etc.) - am now following and plan to purchase the xTool for that purpose. Thanks.
Where did you get the parts to build the frame for the camera?
A company called Maker Pipe!
ua-cam.com/video/bqs2ex_QA8M/v-deo.html
Cheers
@@BuildDadBuild looks like you built what I need for your D1, can you share the plans for and exact parts I need?
@@Willcustomlaserengraving I pretty much detail the process in that video. I don't really have plans...sorry.
I've tried making a video......I just can't do it, I get so nervous talking to the camera....LOL
Alright, I can continue to watch your channel since you didn't say EKspecially!
How would epoxy look over Shou Sugi Ban.
Clear looks great!
Where do you get the files to cut
I designed some of them and others I pulled off the internet.
Cheers
The chemicals you use on glass how do yiu clean it off?
Enduramark comes off with water!
👍🏻😍
Where are the links?
The links to my other videos should be up now. I forgot to put them in when I uploaded the video.
All the other links should be in the description. If they're not, please let me know what link you are looking for.
Cheers!
@@BuildDadBuild Perfect! Thanks.
Newbie being myself.
Slow down accelerations.
Can you tell me what the settings were to get the ceramic to burn through to the layer below the glazing? I know it vaires from product to product, but i was going to try a lightburn material test. I think the actual engraving of the ceramic cup looks fantastic!
Best to run a speed and power test
@@BuildDadBuild man! I gotta tell you. I get crap plates at $1 tree. Each one burns a little different. But the burn test did the trich to give me a great reference. When you expose the bare cooked clay under the glazing, do you protect it with something? Orherwise it just soaks up water. Btw; great videos! I learn a lot. Thanks for all you do