Best video ever!! I failed this twice now had to go to a transport repair shop and they tried to show me what to do but only had automatic slack adjusters there, its been really rough but this video helped me soo much, thnx dude
Anybody watching this... DO NOT DO WHAT HE DID HERE. You will have ZERO available braking on that wheel end if you do as he did in the video. He went the wrong way.
so this is completely opposite from a modern auto slack adjuster? i always found im adjusting the clevis towards the brake chamber to lock the wheel then back off from there. ive never come across any that need to be adjusted all the way away from the chamber then 1/4-1/2 turn towards the chamber. Is this just a unique method for an old design?
All the ones you have worked on are automatic slack adjusters. These are manual slack adjuster, meaning that with the automatics you set them only once during their service life where as the manual slack adjusters are set, then after so many miles of driving it has to be brought in and reset because it doesn’t automatically make up for the difference in stroke caused by the shoes wearing down.
The absolute wrong way to do this, you essentially stroked out the brake chamber in order to get the brakes to apply. Exactly the opposite of what should be done.
yeah... hooking the S cam against the shoe rollers until you max out the chamber, then tightening up a touch, will not leave any available braking on this wheel end
You should be ashamed as a instructor putting out wrong advice on the internet. The push rod should be going into the brake chamber, not out. You just maxed out the pushrod travel out of the brake chamber. And also the angle should be over 90 degrees.
When I want to tighten the break lining against the drums. Do I turn bolt clockwise if brake chamber is on the left side and counter-clockwise if it is on the right side?
@@adrienbrown7862 just get someone to apply the brakes…whatever way the push rod moves, that’s the direction you want to turn the adjuster bolt to make it move that way.
as Stated in the NB Air Brakes Manual 2023 (When the Brakes are fully applied, the angle between the push rod and the arm of the slack adjuster should be NO MORE THAN 90 degrees "at a right angle" Keep in mind that this is a MANUAL Slack adjuster, NOT an automatic slack adjuster. if you do anything other than what he was teaching at SNB, it is an automatic failure. Thus he is teaching it the correct way according to the NB Air Brakes Manual..
ALSO Slack pulls OUTWARDS----> from the brake chamber when brakes are applied. when the brakes are applied, air is pushed into the brake chamber, forcing the spring to outwards, pushing the pushrod outwards, moving the push rod to move the slack adjuster outwards. making sure that the slack adjuster is not more than 90 degrees is important so that the 1/4-3/4 of an inch is put into effect with the slack. anything less or over that means that your brakes are either going to drag or not have enough contact with the brake linings
Best video ever!! I failed this twice now had to go to a transport repair shop and they tried to show me what to do but only had automatic slack adjusters there, its been really rough but this video helped me soo much, thnx dude
Great instructor 👏
Thank you Sir for up loading this great info 🙏
I definitely didn’t have to do this for my test. Good video though
Thank you 🤗❤️
Anybody watching this... DO NOT DO WHAT HE DID HERE. You will have ZERO available braking on that wheel end if you do as he did in the video. He went the wrong way.
so this is completely opposite from a modern auto slack adjuster? i always found im adjusting the clevis towards the brake chamber to lock the wheel then back off from there. ive never come across any that need to be adjusted all the way away from the chamber then 1/4-1/2 turn towards the chamber.
Is this just a unique method for an old design?
All the ones you have worked on are automatic slack adjusters. These are manual slack adjuster, meaning that with the automatics you set them only once during their service life where as the manual slack adjusters are set, then after so many miles of driving it has to be brought in and reset because it doesn’t automatically make up for the difference in stroke caused by the shoes wearing down.
it seems he did the opposite…?
The absolute wrong way to do this, you essentially stroked out the brake chamber in order to get the brakes to apply. Exactly the opposite of what should be done.
yeah... hooking the S cam against the shoe rollers until you max out the chamber, then tightening up a touch, will not leave any available braking on this wheel end
You should be ashamed as a instructor putting out wrong advice on the internet. The push rod should be going into the brake chamber, not out. You just maxed out the pushrod travel out of the brake chamber. And also the angle should be over 90 degrees.
If it's over 90 degrees, it's out of adjustment. Ideally, the angle should be 90 degrees on the nose.
When I want to tighten the break lining against the drums. Do I turn bolt clockwise if brake chamber is on the left side and counter-clockwise if it is on the right side?
@@adrienbrown7862 just get someone to apply the brakes…whatever way the push rod moves, that’s the direction you want to turn the adjuster bolt to make it move that way.
as Stated in the NB Air Brakes Manual 2023 (When the Brakes are fully applied, the angle between the push rod and the arm of the slack adjuster should be NO MORE THAN 90 degrees "at a right angle"
Keep in mind that this is a MANUAL Slack adjuster, NOT an automatic slack adjuster. if you do anything other than what he was teaching at SNB, it is an automatic failure. Thus he is teaching it the correct way according to the NB Air Brakes Manual..
ALSO Slack pulls OUTWARDS----> from the brake chamber when brakes are applied. when the brakes are applied, air is pushed into the brake chamber, forcing the spring to outwards, pushing the pushrod outwards, moving the push rod to move the slack adjuster outwards. making sure that the slack adjuster is not more than 90 degrees is important so that the 1/4-3/4 of an inch is put into effect with the slack. anything less or over that means that your brakes are either going to drag or not have enough contact with the brake linings
Wow, completely wrong. He's an instructor?