I'm little bit confused. When u did your first testing, it was laser flat, when u uploaded finished grid image, its saying "laser cylindrical''. So, which setting u used for final test that did end up correctly? when u started engraving your dragon logo, it was saying again laser flat, even u using rotary attachment.
That’s was a really nice video But how do u center the laser to start the project my xtool d1 pro 20w starts at another position not even close to where I have my tumbler I use user origin
Great video thanks mate. Are you using air assist? I have a d1 pro 20w. Do settings need to be changed per tumbler brand as I will be doing YETI although they are expensive to be using for test pieces
I don't use air assist on tumblers. Your settings will also be different with a 20w. Sadly, the best way to get your settings dialed in are doing a speed/power tests on each different brand and color. Some brands may have thicker or thinner powder coats. I do find that on my 10w, 100% @ 70mm/s works for most. But not all.
@@LaserNoob thanks for the tips. I have setup a test grid with the same parameters as your 10W and will see how that comes out. Cheers all the way from Australia
Thanks so much for the video, it was incredibly helpful. I'm curious, if you don't mind, after finishing with the power/speed grid, did you use a different tumbler or did i miss something there?
Yes. I always waste a tumbler to do a test. The actual design was a different tumbler. Once I've done the test, I won't run it again unless it's a different brand or color.
Ryan, when doing the White tumblers on the 20 watt machine, what settings have you gotten the best results? Also, are the tumblers you are doing with these settings Yeti, or Rtic, or Amazon No-Names? I'm using 80 mm/s, 60.0 %, Overscan ON @ 4.0%, and 180.0 LPI, and Constant Pwr Mode ON on White Rtic Tumblers. Are we close for the White?
The skinny tumblers are from Amazon (links in the description), but work very well. I don't have a 20w. Just a 10 and 5w. But with a 10w usually 90-100% power and 50-70 mm/s. I do a speed / power test for each color and each brand as the setting usually vary slightly.
Ok question. With my Xtool when I'm using my rotary it doesn't seem to increase speed above like 50mm/s. I have changed the values many times but it doesn't go faster. Even the gantry itself goes slow. Any idea what would cause that?
@@LaserNoob I am running a tumbler currently but yes I will send you a pic with my normal settings. Currently doing 80 power and 100 speed and this one is slow because I'm going for photo realistic as it's a pic of my son and his cousin for my mom. So the lpi is set at 300 which I know slow the process down but left to right is super slow too
That's pretty high power for that speed. Depending on speed and power and what laser you are using, you can easily color stainless steel and get reds, yellows and blues.
2 things. 1) Six months after I made the video, you assume I haven't upgraded the software? 2) It is important for people to familiarize themselves with the software. This is a good exercise for just that purpose, regardless of any "easy way" software update. Thanks for your super important information though.........
You sir saved my project! Big Shoutout!!!
Glad I could help you out!!
Your tips were gold Shipmate!
Great video. Thank you for your service.
I'm little bit confused. When u did your first testing, it was laser flat, when u uploaded finished grid image, its saying "laser cylindrical''. So, which setting u used for final test that did end up correctly? when u started engraving your dragon logo, it was saying again laser flat, even u using rotary attachment.
That’s was a really nice video
But how do u center the laser to start the project my xtool d1 pro 20w starts at another position not even close to where I have my tumbler I use user origin
Here is a video that goes over a very easy way of centering.
ua-cam.com/video/LBi-aNw0U-M/v-deo.html
Would it not do the test correctly if you would have united the full array?
Great video thanks mate. Are you using air assist? I have a d1 pro 20w. Do settings need to be changed per tumbler brand as I will be doing YETI although they are expensive to be using for test pieces
I don't use air assist on tumblers. Your settings will also be different with a 20w. Sadly, the best way to get your settings dialed in are doing a speed/power tests on each different brand and color. Some brands may have thicker or thinner powder coats. I do find that on my 10w, 100% @ 70mm/s works for most. But not all.
@@LaserNoob thanks for the tips. I have setup a test grid with the same parameters as your 10W and will see how that comes out. Cheers all the way from Australia
How to you avoid black smoke marks or brown yellowish burn marks on the white cups
A combo of things could cause that. Improper focus, need for air assist or perhaps speed to slow. I have not had that issue on any color of tumblers.
Thanks so much for the video, it was incredibly helpful. I'm curious, if you don't mind, after finishing with the power/speed grid, did you use a different tumbler or did i miss something there?
Yes. I always waste a tumbler to do a test. The actual design was a different tumbler. Once I've done the test, I won't run it again unless it's a different brand or color.
Ryan, when doing the White tumblers on the 20 watt machine, what settings have you gotten the best results? Also, are the tumblers you are doing with these settings Yeti, or Rtic, or Amazon No-Names? I'm using 80 mm/s, 60.0 %, Overscan ON @ 4.0%, and 180.0 LPI, and Constant Pwr Mode ON on White Rtic Tumblers. Are we close for the White?
The skinny tumblers are from Amazon (links in the description), but work very well. I don't have a 20w. Just a 10 and 5w. But with a 10w usually 90-100% power and 50-70 mm/s. I do a speed / power test for each color and each brand as the setting usually vary slightly.
What was your LPI?
Minimum 220 lpi.
Ok question. With my Xtool when I'm using my rotary it doesn't seem to increase speed above like 50mm/s. I have changed the values many times but it doesn't go faster. Even the gantry itself goes slow. Any idea what would cause that?
Can you take a pic of your settings and dm me on Facebook Messenger? Or join my discord server if you have that option available to you.
@@LaserNoob I am running a tumbler currently but yes I will send you a pic with my normal settings. Currently doing 80 power and 100 speed and this one is slow because I'm going for photo realistic as it's a pic of my son and his cousin for my mom. So the lpi is set at 300 which I know slow the process down but left to right is super slow too
Are you running xcs or lightburn?
@@LaserNoob xcs. Currently poor so going with free program
No judgement here! I pinch pennies wherever I get the chance!
@100%p-30-/s I get blue
That's pretty high power for that speed. Depending on speed and power and what laser you are using, you can easily color stainless steel and get reds, yellows and blues.
Upgrade the software and you'll see a material test grid already done
2 things.
1) Six months after I made the video, you assume I haven't upgraded the software?
2) It is important for people to familiarize themselves with the software. This is a good exercise for just that purpose, regardless of any "easy way" software update.
Thanks for your super important information though.........