I watched about 10 videos where the nuances are not explained and I now I think I have one quarter section pushed in too deep. I am going to try and gently pull it out I hope it works.
Been searching all day for the answer about the seal being flush with the case, I made the same mistake went a little to far in. Leaked like crazy. thanks for the info!
You helped me alot with the info from all your accord rebuild videos , i appreciate you. I hope you find a garage soon i know the feeling. Keep up the awesome content 👏
Thank you very much for your kind words! I'm in a temporary place at the moment until the perfect place is found. Then I can start pulling engines again!
Were you able to pull it out a little or is it toast? I must have watched 10 videos that said, "hey just put grease on it and use a 36 socket, like "No worries it's easy!" so I did but it didn't look right. The side from 12 o'clock to 3:00 o'clock looks pushed too far in. I can't stand when people don't post all the details. Creator thank you for this. Ugh.
I'm glad you found the video to be helpful! Just greasing up the old seal after you go to all the trouble of getting to it is too much of a gamble. Buying a new one is the right choice.
@@ktecgarage Thanks. I just bought a new one from the Honda dealership(After tax about $24.50 as of July 2024). The original I took out(not the first replacement that I screwed up/pushed in too far) doesn't look like the one I just got from the dealership so maybe that is why it was leaking to begin with.
I bought a new seal, installed it recessed to the lip. Heard so many conflicting info regarding it being recessed. Honda has a lip on my civic. I pushed it all the way in, drove fine. Today I managed to take it apart again with my finger, used silicone, and put it flush.
@@sl5311 If it's a new part and you used some sort of lube to install it (grease like in this video or like me I use a tiny bit of auto trans fluid) you can very carefully remove it 90 percent of the time. I've done this with different oil seals of various sizes. If you can get your finger inside behind the lip and a finger on the outside lip like a pinching motion you have a chance of slowly working it out going in a even circular pattern. The larger oil seal has a bigger metal clad surface that you can really get ahold of that can be easier. I've been successful with clean removal and reuse of new accord and civic camshaft seals, front oil pump seals on civics and accords, a cv axle seal on a civic, and some others. For smaller oil seals like the cam and front oil seals you can use a hooked pick by lubricating the pick very well with atf and then slipping it in the lip before carefully turning it and pulling back slightly to make contact with the metal or thick rubber hollow part. You can then pull the seal out carefully. As long as you are careful and work slow alot of things can be "un-oopsied" or reused on older Hondas.
@@ThePwak007 Exactly, but no one says to not bottom it out. They do the quick cutaway where you never see what they do. I can't stand that. Thank you creator for this video.
Thank you for this video. I watched video and still ran it in too deep. I should of made smaller taps. Gona get a new one not take a chance in too deep so it leaks.. Thanks again this are small details but they can make or break the install.
Maybe. Those things are engineered to take a lot of torque. If you have ever looked inside of the boots, you'd see that they are some pretty solid units. I get your misgivings, though.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for your reply. On another note, if I accidentally damaged the seating surface for the output shaft seal and now I have a leak after re-assembly have you got an opinion on whether that can be repaired with JB Weld? It seems extreme for me to have to consider a replacement case. The old seal was almost impossible to remove and I scored the seating surface unfortunately. My worry is that a small amount of JB weld won't be substantial enough to stay in place and then it could break loose and get into the valve body or block fluid flow somewhere else in the tranny. I feel pretty stupid right now.
JB Weld. The redneck's solve all! In all seriousness, it couldn't hurt to give it a shot. I think I would try Honda Bond or some other gasket sealant first. Let us know what you tried and how it goes. I would also suggest checking out my video on Honda axle seals. They will leak if not flush with the Trans case.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for your thoughts. I have been waffling back and forth in my mind about using honda bond or jbweld. Honda Bond might be better because I would put it in during seal installation instead of having to create a perfectly round seating surface with the JB weld. I think I will take that route. on another note when I put the shaft seal in I might not have gotten it perfectly flush so that might be causing some grief too. Not sure I want to push it in further and test it and then redo it again and test it......such a pain in the butt.
My new axle seal is not sitting 100% flush but not leaking. I tried to push it in about a mm using a plastic pry tool and screwdriver without removing it
good vid...thanks. Question, I have to assume that his transmission locked up because all of his trans fluid leaked out. From the seal. Is that what happened you think? Mine are leaking but nothing dripping on ground. Want to change them but it's winter now. Think I'm okay for a FEW MONTHS? THANK YOU
No. He likes to "enjoy" his 5 speed so he grenaded one of his gear sets. The leaking happened after we swapped out the transmission. I would not trust the fluid level if it's leaking. I'd check it frequently and add as necessary until I could fix the leak. Especially if it is an automatic.
Is there some seals that go in further by factory specs? Just wondering about my 2006 Odyssey. Just did it and had to use my old axle shaft with seal installed backwards to beat on it and it went in more than flush. Maybe 1/8 inch or more. I hit like on your video by the way, thanks for the info!
Ty for this video I have a national seal 712551 from the local auto part store and one from Part Greek online OEM Corteco 1903521B for a 2009 Honda Pilot Driver Side AND THERE IS DIFFERNT in Design. Mine is leaking using National . Im putting in the OEM Stuff back in. to resolve the leaking problem
I know this is old but i’m going to be replacing my whole front end , ball joints and control arms n all, couldn’t i just avoid removing the axel nut and disengage the lower control arm and pull the axle out still? like with the whole knuckle assembly
I replaced my passenger side axle again due to a torn boot. When I installed the new axle it started leaking CVT fluid. Had a hard time getting the seal but it's fine now. Do seals usually fail when installing a new axle
I would say removing the axle shouldn't damage the seal unless it got bumped or torn and you didn't notice. Sometimes just messing with something like an old seal can get them leaking.
@@AwesomenessIskey Yeah this would be good to know because I saw a comment on another video where someone warned to not seat the new axle too tight up against the transmission-that there should be a slight gap or something.
My 2013 RDX J Series driver side is leaking a bit of transmission fluid. My mechanic recommended I replace the seal and axle. Would you replace the axle if you were me? Or just the seal? OEM isn't cheap! But not sure how I feel about aftermarket. It has 105K miles. I just did the water pump and timing belt which was how we found out it was leaking.
yo im new to cars and i dont know how to identify my problem. on my eg civic when i slowly take off theres like a loud clunk sound and u can feel it in the floor board. only happens when i slowly take off or sumtimes it happens while going over a speed bump. theres lil play in my pass axle like on the trans side i can lift it up and down. my cousin said it could be my axle or maybe the seal is bad or sumthign and it doesnt sit right in the trans. any info would help. its been doing it for awhile and its annoying
Check the ball joints, control arms and sway bar bushings and end links. That could very likely be the source of the clunks. Check out my Honda Element videos where I address all that. Same as the Civic.
Hello I have a question to asked you I replaced the seal on my drive side on my civic It's a d series manual transmission I still keep getting fluid Barley driping out I replaced the seal three times one from honda So I finally pulled the axle back out of it I notice there's a little tiny hole inside of it Doesn't look like it's supposed to be there You see it right when you pull the seal off of it My question is is there supposed to be a little tiny hoe next to the shaft inside of the seal?
I did a 93 Civic with the D15 and I don't remember any holes in the seal. I did it exactly like this video and never had an issue. Just make sure that the seal is flush with the case and not pushed in too far.
They can appear to be all the way in, but when you drive the car, they can pop back out. After you push the axle in, grab the other side, pull back and then slam it in. Also, there is a c clip on the end of the axle that holds it in the transmission. If it's worn out or damaged, the axle can pop out. Good luck.
Good info. Question...If its leaking from the Axle seal...should it be leaking transmission oil or motor oil. 2009 Honda Civic is leaking at the driver side. Thank you
Very poor design to have a seal without a stop built into the casing. Just having it flush like that on the outside is nuts. I have seen many transaxle install videos not one mentioned this, and they actually sometimes say to use the 32 mm socket to seat the seal. Our 2009 Civic transmission has been a disaster anyhow, several sensors have gone out at random times and had to drive home in low gear.
Same here. I just replaced my 2009 Honda Civic starter, don't get me started on poor design. That and the quiet recall for the 8th gen Civic cracked block issue have me moving away from Hondas in the future. I just used a 36 mm socket to seat my seal and it seated it uneven because of me being under the car and having to use my hand pressure. I was nervous about using grease because I didn't want to contaminate my tranny fluid. No one talks about this. I know I have to be careful on my Mercedes.
Finally a decent quality video that shows yhe correct side to press in and how not to press in too far.
Thank you!
I watched about 10 videos where the nuances are not explained and I now I think I have one quarter section pushed in too deep. I am going to try and gently pull it out I hope it works.
Thanks man. For real. Helped alot of people.
Glad to hear that you found it helpful!
I been searching for a video like this that actually walk you thu the process 👍🏿
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for taking a moment to comment.
Been searching all day for the answer about the seal being flush with the case, I made the same mistake went a little to far in. Leaked like crazy. thanks for the info!
Your very welcome! Always glad to hear I helped someone out. Thank you for taking a moment to comment.
How long did it take for it to leak? My seal has been like that for three weeks and no leak so far
You helped me alot with the info from all your accord rebuild videos , i appreciate you. I hope you find a garage soon i know the feeling. Keep up the awesome content 👏
Thank you very much for your kind words! I'm in a temporary place at the moment until the perfect place is found. Then I can start pulling engines again!
Àa
That’s what I just did pushed it too far inside and the leak was worse. That’s why I’m watching your video and for your advise. Thank you 🙏
Glad you found the video. Those seals can be frustrating!
Were you able to pull it out a little or is it toast? I must have watched 10 videos that said, "hey just put grease on it and use a 36 socket, like "No worries it's easy!" so I did but it didn't look right. The side from 12 o'clock to 3:00 o'clock looks pushed too far in. I can't stand when people don't post all the details. Creator thank you for this. Ugh.
Just had to pull it out with a seal-puller and yes it destroys it. POOF. $25 gone because people don't explain it correctly on UA-cam.
I'm glad you found the video to be helpful! Just greasing up the old seal after you go to all the trouble of getting to it is too much of a gamble. Buying a new one is the right choice.
@@ktecgarage Thanks. I just bought a new one from the Honda dealership(After tax about $24.50 as of July 2024). The original I took out(not the first replacement that I screwed up/pushed in too far) doesn't look like the one I just got from the dealership so maybe that is why it was leaking to begin with.
I bought a new seal, installed it recessed to the lip. Heard so many conflicting info regarding it being recessed. Honda has a lip on my civic. I pushed it all the way in, drove fine. Today I managed to take it apart again with my finger, used silicone, and put it flush.
Ok, good. the video says it is toast if it is already in there. how did you get it out safely?
@@sl5311 If it's a new part and you used some sort of lube to install it (grease like in this video or like me I use a tiny bit of auto trans fluid) you can very carefully remove it 90 percent of the time. I've done this with different oil seals of various sizes. If you can get your finger inside behind the lip and a finger on the outside lip like a pinching motion you have a chance of slowly working it out going in a even circular pattern. The larger oil seal has a bigger metal clad surface that you can really get ahold of that can be easier. I've been successful with clean removal and reuse of new accord and civic camshaft seals, front oil pump seals on civics and accords, a cv axle seal on a civic, and some others. For smaller oil seals like the cam and front oil seals you can use a hooked pick by lubricating the pick very well with atf and then slipping it in the lip before carefully turning it and pulling back slightly to make contact with the metal or thick rubber hollow part. You can then pull the seal out carefully. As long as you are careful and work slow alot of things can be "un-oopsied" or reused on older Hondas.
Thanks for clearing it all up. I made the same mistake and pushed the seal in too far the first time
Seems counterintuitive. Thanks for taking a moment to comment.
@@ktecgarage was thinking the same thing. Maybe there's a need for the gap but most people would assume you push it in till it bottoms out
@@ThePwak007 Exactly, but no one says to not bottom it out. They do the quick cutaway where you never see what they do. I can't stand that. Thank you creator for this video.
Thank you for this video. I watched video and still ran it in too deep. I should of made smaller taps. Gona get a new one not take a chance in too deep so it leaks.. Thanks again this are small details but they can make or break the install.
Glad you found the video. Hope it saved you a headache!
Yes why no one talks about this I will never understand.
It seems kind of harsh to use the axle to push it in to the transmission case further. How is that not impacting the inner CV joint negatively.
Maybe. Those things are engineered to take a lot of torque. If you have ever looked inside of the boots, you'd see that they are some pretty solid units. I get your misgivings, though.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for your reply. On another note, if I accidentally damaged the seating surface for the output shaft seal and now I have a leak after re-assembly have you got an opinion on whether that can be repaired with JB Weld? It seems extreme for me to have to consider a replacement case. The old seal was almost impossible to remove and I scored the seating surface unfortunately. My worry is that a small amount of JB weld won't be substantial enough to stay in place and then it could break loose and get into the valve body or block fluid flow somewhere else in the tranny. I feel pretty stupid right now.
JB Weld. The redneck's solve all! In all seriousness, it couldn't hurt to give it a shot. I think I would try Honda Bond or some other gasket sealant first. Let us know what you tried and how it goes. I would also suggest checking out my video on Honda axle seals. They will leak if not flush with the Trans case.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for your thoughts. I have been waffling back and forth in my mind about using honda bond or jbweld. Honda Bond might be better because I would put it in during seal installation instead of having to create a perfectly round seating surface with the JB weld. I think I will take that route. on another note when I put the shaft seal in I might not have gotten it perfectly flush so that might be causing some grief too. Not sure I want to push it in further and test it and then redo it again and test it......such a pain in the butt.
This made it look so easy.
All of us youtube guys make it look easy. The cussing gets edited out!
@@ktecgarage I think it should be left in!
Better to torque the ball joint, then tighten up so you can get your split pin in.
My new axle seal is not sitting 100% flush but not leaking. I tried to push it in about a mm using a plastic pry tool and screwdriver without removing it
If it's not leaking, don't fix it if it ain't broke.
good vid...thanks. Question, I have to assume that his transmission locked up because all of his trans fluid leaked out. From the seal. Is that what happened you think? Mine are leaking but nothing dripping on ground. Want to change them but it's winter now. Think I'm okay for a FEW MONTHS? THANK YOU
No. He likes to "enjoy" his 5 speed so he grenaded one of his gear sets. The leaking happened after we swapped out the transmission.
I would not trust the fluid level if it's leaking. I'd check it frequently and add as necessary until I could fix the leak. Especially if it is an automatic.
Is there some seals that go in further by factory specs? Just wondering about my 2006 Odyssey. Just did it and had to use my old axle shaft with seal installed backwards to beat on it and it went in more than flush. Maybe 1/8 inch or more.
I hit like on your video by the way, thanks for the info!
Not sure about the J series, but I don't think so.
When some people change the axle they unbolt everything but the ball joint. Which is easier?
I've always just disconnected the ball joint. Never thought about disconnecting the rest.
Ty for this video I have a national seal 712551 from the local auto part store and one from Part Greek online OEM Corteco 1903521B for a 2009 Honda Pilot Driver Side AND THERE IS DIFFERNT in Design. Mine is leaking using National . Im putting in the OEM Stuff back in. to resolve the leaking problem
Yep. OEM is a much better choice for that. And they aren't that expensive. Good Luck!
Pressed it in deep on my 07 accord automatic and it leaked twice I’m going to do it like this and hopefully it doesn’t leak lol
Yep. It's aggravating. Hope this video helps you get it fixed.
I know this is old but i’m going to be replacing my whole front end , ball joints and control arms n all, couldn’t i just avoid removing the axel nut and disengage the lower control arm and pull the axle out still? like with the whole knuckle assembly
Yep. If the whole knuckle is coming out, the axle will come with it. Good luck!
@@ktecgarage thank you for replying!
So on the pass side of the 09 crv has a larger axle seal. How do I remove and replace that one? Same process?
The seals are different sizes on the Civic in this video as well. The process should be the same on both sides of the CRV.
Thank you so much for this!!
And thank you for taking a moment to comment.
I replaced my passenger side axle again due to a torn boot. When I installed the new axle it started leaking CVT fluid. Had a hard time getting the seal but it's fine now. Do seals usually fail when installing a new axle
I would say removing the axle shouldn't damage the seal unless it got bumped or torn and you didn't notice. Sometimes just messing with something like an old seal can get them leaking.
@@ktecgarage does the seal have to be 100% flush with the case? I noticed mine to be about a mm off on one side
@@AwesomenessIskey Yeah this would be good to know because I saw a comment on another video where someone warned to not seat the new axle too tight up against the transmission-that there should be a slight gap or something.
My 2013 RDX J Series driver side is leaking a bit of transmission fluid. My mechanic recommended I replace the seal and axle. Would you replace the axle if you were me? Or just the seal? OEM isn't cheap! But not sure how I feel about aftermarket. It has 105K miles. I just did the water pump and timing belt which was how we found out it was leaking.
It's probably just the seal. If they are recommending an axle, check the boots on it for leaks or tears. I'd do an aftermarket axle myself.
What kind of honda civic was that automatic or 5 speed and what was the year of it thanks
It's a 2000 Si, EM1. The owner has a UA-cam channel @aleksandrkisslove.
yo im new to cars and i dont know how to identify my problem. on my eg civic when i slowly take off theres like a loud clunk sound and u can feel it in the floor board. only happens when i slowly take off or sumtimes it happens while going over a speed bump. theres lil play in my pass axle like on the trans side i can lift it up and down. my cousin said it could be my axle or maybe the seal is bad or sumthign and it doesnt sit right in the trans. any info would help. its been doing it for awhile and its annoying
Check the ball joints, control arms and sway bar bushings and end links. That could very likely be the source of the clunks. Check out my Honda Element videos where I address all that. Same as the Civic.
@@ktecgarage will do. replaced the ball joints ill make sure to check out the others also
👍
Hello I have a question to asked you I replaced the seal on my drive side on my civic It's a d series manual transmission I still keep getting fluid Barley driping out I replaced the seal three times one from honda So I finally pulled the axle back out of it I notice there's a little tiny hole inside of it Doesn't look like it's supposed to be there You see it right when you pull the seal off of it My question is is there supposed to be a little tiny hoe next to the shaft inside of the seal?
I did a 93 Civic with the D15 and I don't remember any holes in the seal. I did it exactly like this video and never had an issue. Just make sure that the seal is flush with the case and not pushed in too far.
@ktecgarage I forgot to mention the hole was inside the transmission When you pull the seal out you'll see it right there in the transmission case
Hi. Would you know why the axles would come out again? Mine seems to be not locked in properly
They can appear to be all the way in, but when you drive the car, they can pop back out. After you push the axle in, grab the other side, pull back and then slam it in. Also, there is a c clip on the end of the axle that holds it in the transmission. If it's worn out or damaged, the axle can pop out. Good luck.
@@ktecgarage i think it might be the clips then
I did all this and it was fine for a week, but now it’s leaking fluid again from the new seal 😡
Ugh. Those things can be finicky! I feel your pain.
Good info. Question...If its leaking from the Axle seal...should it be leaking transmission oil or motor oil. 2009 Honda Civic is leaking at the driver side. Thank you
Should be transmission fluid. Honda trans fluid is clear, not red.
@@ktecgarage umm my odyssey tranny fluid is red. The manual tranny fluid is clear though.
How much does something like this normally cost?Love your video
Thank you! The part isn't very expensive, but the labor time would be around 1.5 to 2 hours. Depending on the rate, it should be less than $300.
@@ktecgarage Thank you for the info.
Thank you
👍
It doesn't necessarily have to be 100% flush, just don't press it too far in
Well,Done!!
Thank you!
I learned the hard way that driving the seal in too far will cause the gear oil to leak ...
I've made that mistake too. That's why I did the video.
Very poor design to have a seal without a stop built into the casing. Just having it flush like that on the outside is nuts. I have seen many transaxle install videos not one mentioned this, and they actually sometimes say to use the 32 mm socket to seat the seal. Our 2009 Civic transmission has been a disaster anyhow, several sensors have gone out at random times and had to drive home in low gear.
I cuss engineers everytime I work on a car! Maybe they know something we don't about that seal.
Same here. I just replaced my 2009 Honda Civic starter, don't get me started on poor design. That and the quiet recall for the 8th gen Civic cracked block issue have me moving away from Hondas in the future. I just used a 36 mm socket to seat my seal and it seated it uneven because of me being under the car and having to use my hand pressure. I was nervous about using grease because I didn't want to contaminate my tranny fluid. No one talks about this. I know I have to be careful on my Mercedes.
👍👏
Thank you!
@@ktecgarage witam. Czy olej spuszczać trzeba ? Pozdrawiam.
I think I put my seal too far to in
Thank you I found this and can now fix it
Glad it helped you out. Good luck!
I am seal
Yes you are!
One of the best I need
Thank you
Glad you found the video!