Front Differential Axle Shaft Oil Seal Replacement
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 лют 2017
- Did our video help you? If so, consider buying us a beer: bit.ly/3feE6tJ
In this video, we show you how to replace the front differential axle oil seals on a 3rd Gen 4runner. We don't show the removal and reinstallation of the CV axles because we show that in our CV Axle Reboot and Replacement video:
• CV Axle Reboot & Repla... list=PLPMpPriBUyJBswzxy00gJpFg55Zk2fZmq
If you are replacing or rebooting your CV axles, this is the opportune time to replace the oil seals if you know or suspect they are leaking.
*PARTS*
*Passenger Side Front Differential Oil Seal #90311-47013
amzn.to/2QGpbtw
*Driver Side Front Differential Oil Seal #90311-47027
amzn.to/2XF9cxj
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythet...
*There's now a much better tool for driving in the seals. It makes driving in the seals a very easy task. Wits End Toyota 4WD IFS Output Shaft Seal Driver
absolute-wits-end.com/toyota-...
*Wits End Seal Driver Handle ( To work in conjunction with Wit's End Seal Driver)
absolute-wits-end.com/overdri...
*Wits End Toyota 4WD IFS Output Shaft Extended Seal Driver Handle absolute-wits-end.com/extende...
(This is an awesome addition to the seal driver when you want to install seals with the differential inside the vehicle. This allows you to comfortably strike with your hammer outside the lower control arm to drive the seal in. This handle also works great in conjunction with a seal driving puck for driving in ECGS bushings on the driver side of the front differential. The ability to give firm hammer strikes outside the control arm makes driving in the bushings much easier.)
*OTC 4579 Slide Hammer Pullet Set
amzn.to/301Cg6D
*The slide hammer puller kit I used for the seal removal is made by OTC and I bought it on Amazon:
amzn.to/2UIWQ4t
*If you want a more affordable option, you could buy a seal puller like this:
amzn.to/2t7koo3
*Press and Pull Sleeve Kit
ebay.us/4V5LlN
*Mini Grease Gun
amzn.to/2KKDXf2
*Red Devil All Purpose Grease
amzn.to/2O9DXY3
*6 Ton Jack Stands
amzn.to/2MM91w6
*Ball Pein Hammer
amzn.to/2W5eHV5
*Small Digital Caliper amzn.to/2OfIgB4
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
Anyone else here because they didn’t watch this video first before driving the seal in too far??
Thanks for the videos, Tim!
You're welcome Tim. I would guess you are not the first nor will you be the last that makes this mistake. It's nicer when the seal driving is much more straight forward and you can just bottom it out.
6 years later in New Zealand in the southern pacific and Timmy and Sean saving my bacon with the boost of confidence of seeing the process and all the tips. Thanks so much legends! Cheers!
Love to hear we are helping Kiwi’s! My dad moved out there a couple years ago, if you see him, tell him I said hi 👋🏼
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman I'll keep an eye out! I hope he is enjoying it here. If he needs anything let me know. Happy to repay all the knowledge and tutorials I've consumed from you guys. Cheers!
I had to recently change the CV axles in my 06 GX470 and used you're other video to accomplish that task. Unfortunately, the passenger side decided to start leaking. Thankfully Timmy and his buddies made this excellent tutorial! Best videos on UA-cam...you need the highest award! Much appreciation Sir!
Thanks Steve. We appreciate your nice compliment of our channel. We actually replaced the differential axle seals on Thanh's GX470 because one of his seals started leaking too after we swapped out the axles. We used a new installation tool make by Wit's End which made the job much easier. Check out the video: ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html
Great video, thanks for posting. I would be lost without you guys!
Thanks Scott and you're very welcome. We're hear to help.
Thank you for your videos!! Always helping people in different time and space
You're very welcome. That's the beauty of the internet. We can help people around the world with our videos.
Great video, the part numbers for the seal were the same as the seals for my 2005 Tundra TRD SR5 so I used your technique of "5.5mm" and it worked like a charm. I had previously installed a new seal all the way into the tube and it was leaking by really bad, but your info saved the job. It's too bad the Tundra FSM did not reveal that little tidbit of information. Thanks Bro!
Thanks for taking the time to check back here & comment. It's comments like these that maintain the momentum & desire to create more content for the masses. We referenced the original seal depth as well to be certain of the correct depth. So don't forget to measure where the failed seal was seated before removing it.
Thank you for your awesome videos! They are so helpful! I couldn't have done this job, and most other jobs, without your help. You provide accurate information and instil confidence that I too can do such jobs. Thank you!!!
I finally got around to replacing my leaking CV shafts and oil seals. That right side (driver's side for me) oil seal wasn't easy, eh! The first time it wasn't straight, and leaked. New oil seal again. The second time I knocked it in too far, and it leaked. New oil seal again. Third time I think I've got it, nothing is leaking after 200km of sand and 400km of highway.
Timmy. I think I may have set off a little debate, too..... sorry about that. I wish I lived closer so I could buy you a beer (or a slab) to apologise properly. Now I've done it, you couldn't get it in the wrong way, and even if you did, it would leak instantly.
1997 Hilux Surf KZN185W SSRX 3.0TD: Purchased in Japan and brought it back to Australia with me.
Hey MIkey, you're very welcome. It's nice to hear our videos have helped you out a lot. It's especially cool to hear our videos have given you the confidence to do jobs that you might have otherwise not tackled without having our videos to follow. We appreciate you taking the time to comment and share your success stories with us. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you, great Instructor, very specific , its what DIY's need the most, Thanks again
You're very welcome David and thanks for the nice compliment.
Vary nice video! I get to do this soon! Seeing how when I replaced my CV boot, topped my fluid off (one quart) and with in 24 hours it was gone... I really appreciate the video and the options you gave for tools. Thanks man.
You're welcome Andrew. Good luck with the job. If you come up with any questions, just ask. Happy Wrenching!
After seeing all the metal shrapnel that came out of the pan, you guys put new seals in and ran this? OMG!! Guess this will be on Craigslist again very soon.
jim davidson Hey Jim, it's not "You Guys", it's Eric who owns the vehicle. The last time I talked with him, everything is fine with his rig. Would I personally run a differential after seeing all those metal chunks come out? No, I wouldn't. I'd get it sent out and rebuilt and maybe have an ARB locker installed at the same time.
sometime your little short on money and you just got to ride it the way it is
Thank you so much, this video saved my life. Had a leaking passenger differential oil seal on an FJ Cruiser, have the right amount driven in, no more leaking. Turns out I had accidentally installed it backwards.
You're very welcome. We're happy to know our video helped you out. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for the important information on installing those seals. No one explained that like you did.
Hey Matt, there is a great seal insertion tool made by the Wits' End company. We feature it in this video and provide a link to it in the video description. ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html It makes installing the seal very, very easy. I love it! I wish I have it when making this video.
I know! He did a FANTASTIC job on this video!
nice vid again! that sleeve is so deep and HUGE!
Hey Minh, If you interested in this kit, here's a link: www.ebay.com/itm/262449077356?orderid=&rmvSB=true
I've seen this same kit on Amazon and other sites but this is by far the most affordable price I found.
Great job Tim!
Thanks!
Finally my turn to do this job! Thanks for the great video like always.
Hey Chase, check the video description under the "Helpful Tools" heading. There's a much better tool for driving in the seals made by the Wit's End company. I show it's use in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html After we shot the video, Wit's End made it even better by creating an extra long handle to marry up to the seal driver plate.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks Tim!!
@@gunsfishand4x4 You're welcome.
I bought a seal driver kit, all the drivers are flat, the seals are raised away from the metal part of the seals, I then watched this video and at first I was going to do what you did but with a piece of 3 inch diameter pipe but I watched another video on this and the guy(cant remember who) used a oil filter wrench/socket that worked perfectly.
I could tap in the middle or sides. Made it simple.
Great video as usual!
Hey Anthony, the oil filter wrench socket sounds like a good technique. I guess you just need to buy the right size oil filter socket for each side since the the driver and passenger side seals are different diameters. There's always more than one way to accomplish something. This is especially true with press work. Guys come up with all kinds of ingenious ways to get things done. Thanks for sharing this technique and we're glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!
Yeah, I only had issues with passengers side, had plenty of pieces of pipe and sockets for drivers side. Peace!
I just tried this. I was having trouble getting the jaws to tighten/widen inside because that round lock nut thing you are using there was just barely able to get on the outside of the back of the jaws to tighten it. I found once I had some of the rubber removed from the seal to give more room I was able to widen and tighten that nut more to widen the jaws inside. Thanks for the video. Finally just got mine out.
Nice! Thanks for sharing your experience - we hope people like you sharing their technique will help others in the future that read through the comments so thanks for stopping by and commenting.
- Sean
very well done..very helpful.. thanks for posting
Thanks George and we appreciate you taking the time to comment.
That was amazing to watch thank you
It's better to be safe than sorry when working with Point 5 of a millimeter
Thanks Kevin. There's now a tool made by Wits End that makes the seal insertion fool proof. We use it in this video. ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html We provide links to the Wits End tools in the video description.
Great viedo thank you I'm about to do my left side today and this viedo makes it look very easy!! Off to toyota for parts now woohooo
We're glad you like the video. Just take your time seating the new seal so you don't end up pressing it in too far. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
You look like Lean Claude Van Damme! Very nice video Timmy! I’m going to do this to my car!
I'll take that as a compliment. Jean-Claude Van Damme is a bad ass. Glad you like the video. Good luck with the repair.
Thanks for the info. Will be doing this job soon.
You're welcome. Good luck with the job.
Thanks Timmy!
Need to do these.
Harbor tool box. Got the same one.
You’re welcome Francois, or should I say Frenchy.
Thanks for the part #s
You're welcome.
Thank you! Subscribed.
You're welcome and thanks for subscribing.
Another solid video Tim. I ended up swapping out the passenger side cv axle only to have the seal start leaking, doh. I knew in my better judgment that I should have replaced the seal but I figured it would be ok. Guess not!
Aaron Phelps Hey Aaron, give it a few days and watch it. It’s not uncommon that you see a little drip of oil after replacing the CV axles because a little residual oil that was displaced when inserting the shaft drips down.
@@TimmyTheToolman Will do. Good to know. I did order both seals from Toyota since I have to swap out the drivers side axle (I'm going to rebuild the passenger side) and just keep the reman unit on the passenger side for now. Gonna do the toytec lift and head out to Moab in a month so I'm trying to get my old T4R up to snuff.
Aaron Phelps let us know how the install goes and how MOAB was!!
Big fan of your channel! I was wondering if you could do a series on lubricating the drive shaft and the chassis/ Thanks again!
Hey Jeff, good to hear you like our channel. We have a 30,000 Miles Service video that covers greasing the driveshafts. On the 3rd Gen 4runners, there's only zerk grease fittings on the front (if you have 4wd) and rear driveshafts. No where else are there grease fittings. ua-cam.com/video/a81i1Cayf_I/v-deo.html
You are a Boss.
Thanks!
Hey, you own a Yamaha Big Wheel!!! Kind of a rare machine around these parts!! :-D
I know and they're becoming harder to find. I use it for doing volunteer trail work. Strap a chainsaw on the back and away I go.
thanks for sharing man !! i need to do them tomorrow that's really helpfull !!!
You're welcome. Good luck with the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman thnaks !
@@jsvallee567 No problem.
@@TimmyTheToolman update on the job it went so smooth with all your tips ! now its fixed thanks again for sharing
@@jsvallee567 That's great to hear. Thanks for coming back and letting us know. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Tim- OUTSTANDING VIDEO!! You are one of the BEST published, professionally produced videos for Mechanical repairs on UTUBE! I have subscribed and "liked" your video !!
I have a question, regarding the replacement of CV axel on Landcruiser/ LX 470. I just did the passenger side and replaced the oil seal as well ( it was leaking) I got a remanufactured Toyota OEM drive shaft ( I very much dislike the aftermarket cheap crap that's 1/4 the price of OEM products ) When I was installing it, my assistant put a block of wood over the end it, and hammered a few times with a regular claw hammer. It did not go in and the C clip on the diff side of the spline is designed to hold it IN!. I did more research and found a video that used a drift punch or pry bar and place it on the lip of the large circle and hammered it on that small lip with a 2x2 or metal drift punch. THAT WORKED! My question is, did pounding a few times on the end of the CV shaft damage it ?? IT has some linear play in it now,( under the inner side boot) so I am really nervous if it's damaged and working? I reinstalled both Ball joints and torqued to factory specs. I know after I reassemble everything i will know in a second if it's broken. BTW - I have never replaced a CV axel much less on a 4 wheel drive LX.
I'm kind of stuck now and REALLY need a prompt response so I hope you check this site or get a notification daily Look fwd to your reply on what i should check, troubleshoot or what... i should do to complete it today
Thank you Tim
Thank you for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! You didn't do any damage to your CV axle pounding on it with block of wood. I wouldn't worry about it. Good job doing the work yourself. Happy Wrenching!
that is some gnarly rubber on that bike
It's a 1987 Yamaha BW200. It basically has ATV tires. They made them in the mid to late 80's and then stopped making them. Honda made something similar called the Fat Cat. I use it when I do volunteer trail work. I strap a chainsaw on the back rack and ride trails cutting out down trees along the way.
Thanks for the video. My daughter purchased a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 Extra Cab. The Front Differential Axle Shaft Oil Seals are leaking on both sides but, much more on the right side. It leaks differential fluid after the four wheel drive has been engaged for a brief period. When four wheel drive is not engaged, the leaking stops. I have done my own DIY repairs myself, like replacing brakes pads, radiators, alternators, valve cover gaskets. Replacing the Front Differential Axle Shaft Oil Seals, on my daughter's 1998 Toyota Tacoma, looks like a job for a skilled mechanic and not a job for me.
You could handle this job no problem with the right tools.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks.
@@cgrscott You're welcome.
Im sure glad to know there are two sizes. I have a 2006 4x4 4runner. Should they also be 2 different sizes? I'll be tackling this job soon. I surappreciate your videos. Thanks!
Great!
Thanks!
Nice video, and very informative, you've just earned a sub, and if you could it would be great to see a video on how to change that needle bearing. And is that the needle bearing that we are seeing the oil seal go around?
Hey Tyler, I might be helping a guy install a front differential "Clam Shell" equipped with an ARB locker but I don't know if this mod will include replacing any bearings. The oil seal is not really going around any bearing. It's just seated into the ends of the differential housing. There are bearings inside the housing just past the oil seal and that must be what you're talking about.
So, if his bearings are fine, I doubt we'll be replacing them. But, who knows. I might find a local 3rd Gen owner that needs this repair and we'll do it for him and make a video of it.
Thanks for subscribing. We've got lots of good stuff coming.
I have a GS 350AWD. Very similar.
Good to know.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yep, it is pieces of a RWD/4wd toyota truck in a sedan. Shares a transmission with the tundra!
Hey Tim, Just wanted to say thanks for the chat today and wanted to know if you had any rear pinion seal replacement video's. My pinion seal is leaking at the differential and need to fix it. I would image those 4 Runners would be the same for a lot of Toyota's. I have 3 Toyota's but this one is a 1991 Previa.
Hey Greg, you're welcome. Unfortunately we don't have a video for a pinion seal replacement.
great video.
I'm going to change the bearings on my friends hilux. Inside the seals you changed in the video.
is it a lot of work
Good luck with the job. I'd like to hear what tools you used to remove the bearings and reinstall them.
Hey Tim excellent video! Im doing mine today. I have a 97 T100 3.4l 4x4 my fam and I ran her silly in Big Bear this last week..snow, much, mud and some gritty rocky paths! She handles super solid. Until I ran her into a 4' water hole and got her jammed up for a bit. Couple folks came down the path and Wenched us out no problem. Then I ended up with a front pass. Diff leak. From what I read, a blocked breather valve? On the front diff...can you do a video or maybe spare a quick tip on unclogging and or preventing another seal blow out? Thanks again Tim! Appreciate your thorough real human perspective!
We probably wouldn't make a video on the topic of a clogged breather because it's pretty basic. You find where the breather is located, pull it off the line and blow through it. If air moves through it, it's good. If air doesn't move through it, you replace it. On 3rd Gen 4runners, the front differential breather is extended onto the inside of the driver side fender in the engine compartment. Maybe Toyota put it in the same place on your T100. If it's not in the same place, get under the rig and take a look where the breather is. It shouldn't be that hard to spot. You're seal could have just worn out too. Seals fail from miles and old age. Glad you like the video and Happy Wrenching.
Hey Tim. There was a guy who left a comment on one of these CV axle or front diff seal videos of yours who said he had a difficult time removing the CV axle and he had to remove his shock as a result of that. I actually ran into the same problem this morning on my 2000 Tacoma 4x4. I had the Hub completely pulled out of the way with baling wire and also had my floor jack kind of supporting it to relieve the tension of the brake line. The axle was getting hung up between the bottom of the shock and the sway bar link. I tried every which angle to get that thing out of there and could not. I was just getting ready to remove the shock and realized it would probably be easier to disconnect the sway bar links on both sides, swivel the sway bar up, and swivel the end links down. That created plenty of room to pull the old axle out. This was on the passenger side. I will be doing axles and seals on both sides but just wanted to throw this out there for anyone who is running into this issue. Thanks again for these awesome videos!
Thanks for sharing your experience. There's a tool made by the Wit's End company that makes the seal insertion much easier. We feature it in this video. Check it out: ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes sir we chatted about it already lol. Arrived this afternoon. Just waiting on my new seals from Amazon to arrive in the next day or two
@@benzoil0453 Gotcha. I don't remember everyone I chat with online. Good to hear your got the cool installation tool. You're gonna like it.
Hey Timmy, I just did this job for the first time (thank you!). My passenger side seal went in WAY easier than the driver side, so I unintentionally pounded it just a bit past flush. ***Should I be concerned? It seems there's actually plenty of room behind it, so I imagine a few mm would be fine, but what do you think? I'm already buttoned back up so I'm hoping to NOT have to dissemble LOL. Thanks!
Well, as long as you're not leaking, you're good to go. I think there's some room for adjustment of the position of the seal and it will still seal fine on the CV axle.
I just used a seal puller and it ended up bending on me. Took it back and got my money back. I did get the seal out though.
Well, the important thing is you got it done. Good job!
Very good video, where did you get the slide hammer to pull the seals out? That slide hammer can be handy for plenty of different things,
Definitely a good tool to have in your arsenal. Refer to the video description to follow the link for the slide hammer puller.
@Timmy The Toolman. I need to get this job done on my '98 taco, and am debating getting that press/pull sleeve kit. What other jobs on my truck would that set be useful for? I know you've used it to press out the front wheel bearings, but what other stuff could it be used for? I guess I'm looking for some extra incentive to justify purchasing that toolset... :)
I've also used the press sleeve kit for upper control arm bushing replacements, rear control arm bushing replacements, and the rear axle seal job. If you think you're going to buy a press at some point, the press sleeve kit is nice to have. If you don't plan on tackling your own press work, it would probably be a waste of money.
In some cars passenger and driver side oil seals are specifically mentioned
We do specify the different part numbers for both sides since they are different in the video description, however, the technique to install them is the same.
- Sean
An easy way to seat the seal is put it in freezer first to shrink it. Then you can begin to seat it with your fingers.
Then, take your old seal, cut the rubber dust ring off, and it will lay over the new seal so you can hit it to drive in new seal. An easy way to drive it in is get a 2 foot or so 2x4 and it will extend far enough out of the wheel well to hit the end of the board with a hammer. Easier than trying to tap it with hammer with lower control arm in the way...
Thanks for sharing your tips Andrew. We actually now have a custom made driver for this made by the company Wits End. absolute-wits-end.com/toyota-4wd-ifs-output-shaft-seal-driver/
@@TimmyTheToolman TW Matic here. Just ordered the wits end driver reccomended from another TW member today. Doing both my seals this weekend. Lucky me has the front diff on the workbench as I just got it back from ecgs with new 4:56 nitro's and a harrop e-locker. Excellant vid as always. Merry Christmas!
@@matic1203cc You'll like that Wits End driver. It works really well. I'm planning on re-gearing soon and also going with a Harrop locker for my front diff. How much did ECGS charge you for the job? Glad you like the video. Merry Christmas back at ya!
@@TimmyTheToolman $2100 and a core. gears, locker and wiring harness. They even spiffied up the diff with fresh paint. I had a buddy drop off a random front diff for my core and he lives a stones throw from ecgs and i'm just south in SC. So I didnt have any shipping charges to get a core there. I want to say shipping the completed diff to me was also free.
@@matic1203cc Thanks for getting back to me with this info. Sounds like a fair price.
Thanks for these videos. My brain has exploded from all the knowledge. I’m in a 01 Tacoma V6 4x4 and want to do front wheel bearing. Do you have any videos on that? I’ve been looking but no luck from your channel. Would you be interested in making a video with my truck? I’m in Hayward, CA. Bay Area Boiis
Yes, our Manual Hub Swap videos show the necessary work. Use Part 1 to know how to pull the knuckles out and get them back in. Use Part 2 for the press work because we show the necessary detail for A.D.D. hubs in that video. Our CV Axle Reboot video will also be helpful to you is you want to reboot your CV axles at the same time. Our Upper Balljoint Replacement video will be helpful as well because it might better show the detail to get the knuckles off and back on the vehicle. Here's some links:
Manual Hub Swap Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/v-deo.html
Manual Hub Swap Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/1TpOYj0sUpA/v-deo.html
CV Axle Reboot: ua-cam.com/video/vcCT4UgFUTw/v-deo.html
Upper Balljoint Replacement: ua-cam.com/video/-sY2azyLBuI/v-deo.html
I'm trying really hard to limit my wrenching to just making new videos, and it's sort of working, but not really. I now have lots of friends through this channel now and I have repeated some jobs many times. I'm spending way too much of my personal time on this, and since we already have videos for this job, I'm going to have to turn you down on helping you out with this. The videos I linked show you everything you need. If you like wrenching, I highly recommend you invest in a Harbor Freight press, press plates, press sleeves and any other tools necessary for you to pull this job off. The money you save doing it yourself will pay for the tools and then you'll have the tools for future jobs. I've used my press and associated plates and sleeve for many jobs. It's money well-spent. Good luck with the work.
Use a big spanner on the open end put it onto the seal and use a hammer to nock onto the spanner to free the seal i did this without damaging the seal so I can get a new one measured up
If the seal is to fit at the same level as the outer ridge, you could use a sleeve that, not only, fits the diameter of the seal but whose sleeve walls are thick enough to extend out further to meet with the outer ridge. That way, there would be no way of installing the seal beyond the outer ridge. Also, if your sleeve was shorter in length, you'd have more room for hammering. A sleeve (like what I've suggested, above) could be made by gluing one diameter of PVC pipe inside a wider diameter of PVC pipe. $2?
That's an excellent idea provided you could find the right size PVC pipes. PVC pipes come in definite industry standard diameters so you might not find two that will work perfectly for this application.
Second that, and adaptor to a screwed connection gave me the extra lip on my case. Definitely a budget friendly and soft material valid alternative. Cheers!
@@TimmyTheToolmananother way is to make installation tool on wood lathe using white oak.
@@bobschwarz9184 Yeah, whatever works to get the seal to the proper depth.
@@TimmyTheToolman I just replaced axle seal on a friend's 2012 Jeep liberty on the right front and the slide hammer tool wouldn't grab it good enough to pull it out and of course that seal is recessed about 2" in, so the hand held seal puller wouldn't get it either, so I spent 3 hours digging at it with anything I could find and hammer and chisel, Dremel tool, definitely not a fun time.
thanks for the informative video, I've never seen a slide hammer attatchment like you have for pulling seals the easy way, The only attatchment I have is the cast piece to pull cv joint fwd axles
away from the transxle, where do I buy one ? when I searched I found pilot bearing/bushing puller
they look something like that but smaller thks
You're welcome. Those jaws are a part of the OTC kit I purchased. We link it in the video description.
Nice work. Q. i've done a rear seal on my 96 4runner but i need to do the front p/s of my 04. any tips how to do the 04?
I don't have a Factory Service Manual for an 04 but I imagine it's probably very similar. Remove the CV axle, note how the seal currently sits, maybe even take a measurement with a caliper tool like I show in the video, pull the old seal out and knock in the new one at the same depth. You should be good to go.
Hello timmy! What happens if I had already change the seals the proper way, and toyota original seal, but the passenger side still leaking diff fluid?? What would be the next step!
Mayron Hernandez Are you sure the oil seal is at the proper depth and that the CV axle is fully seated into the differential?
What is that bearing on the drivers side?Right at the seal you just pulled? I need to replace it.
Watch our ECGS Clamshell Bushing video: ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html. Instead of putting in another needle bearing, consider replacing it with a bushing.
You can also use a small adjustable square and lock it to where it needs to be
Hey Robert, maybe explain a bit more of what you're talking about. How exactly are you using this square for this job?
Use the square for the depth adjust if and lock it down use the body for the housing and the rule part for the depth if I am making since just thinking outside the box if you dont have a caliper
@@robertreid4617 Gotcha. Thanks for the explanation.
Timmy I guess better way to explain is set the square depth to what the original seal is before you take it out to get you in ballpark when you put in new seal iui s this a little better explanation
@@robertreid4617 Cool, thanks for sharing this.
Good video & information can you make video on a first generation toyota highlander rear axle seal there none on UA-cam I think it would be a great video! Thanks cheer!
We for the most part work on 4x4 Toyota SUVs and Trucks, but there have been exceptions. Would we work on a Highlander one day? Maybe we would.
Have you done a vid of replacing that bearing? I'm quite sure mine is shot.
We haven't done one on replacing the passenger side bearing. There is a guy who has though. ua-cam.com/video/Yk-0BulWeHA/v-deo.htmlsi=znPe9FIsfcVmzfR0
This calls for a big impact gun.
yes sir! we link to the dewalt guns we use.
Did you use the same little spring thing
Sorry Dylan, I don't know what you're referring to.
Hello! Good day. Thanks. What would be the worst scenario if not change right away.
The worst case is it leaks and you have to keep an eye on the fluid level in the differential so you don't end up destroying it.
So the leak is okay as long as I add fluid regularly. It doesn’t cause any damage?
Hello Timmy! Where did you get the factory service manual please?
goofyindavidual I bought mine from an EBay seller. Just do a Google search and you'll find sets for your particular year for sale.
I managed to find a PDF online for about about 4/5 £/$. Really appreciate your work and attention to detail mate. Thank you from the UK! G
You're welcome my British 3rd Gen Mate. I'm half English by the way. Last name Watson. Glad you're liking our videos. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman Hi Timmy Just recently Replaced My Cv axles, Lower Ball Joints, Inner and Outer Tie rod Ends For My 97 Toyota 4Runner Sr5 Just had an alignment. Drives great.. Beyond and behold The driver side axle shaft seal On the differential started leaking.. I have a New seal Ordered and ready for pick-up.. I recently watched this your video. So Im going to attemped to give it a try.. My question Is Prior to removing The cv axle Is it possible to just loosen and remove the 4 bolts attaching Lower balljoint to hub or would it be better to Loosen and Remove the 1 lower Nut and leave ball joint attack to The hub..I guess I'm trying to figure out the Best way to go without messing with anything that could effect the alignment Or is A alignment required reguardless. Thanx
Hey Heather, whether you disconnect the lower balljoint at the lower control arm or disconnect it at the steering knuckle makes no difference. The alignment will not be affected. The only way you'd affect the alignment is if you loosened the cam adjuster bolts on the LCAs and turned the cam adjusters or you loosened the set nuts for the outer tie rods and adjusted them.
I prefer to just take off the castle nut and break the connection at the LCA with a puller and leave the 4 balljoint bolts alone since I loctited them. Good luck with the axle seal repair.
Thanks Timmy I hope all goes well also..Thanks again.
Just take your time driving in the seal and you'll be fine. It's tedious but just keep rechecking the depth as you're driving it in because you don't want to overshoot. If you do, you'll have to get another seal, because the seal gets destroyed pulling it out. If you're off by a little bit, you'll probably be fine. But, if you drive it in way too far, it won't meet up with the CV axle well and it will leak.
We're did you get the slide hammer and seal puller from
Look at the video description. I list in there with a link.
Hey Timmy. If you wanted to replace the bearings while you were there would it be as simple as slide hammering the old bearing out and pressing the new one in as you did with the seal? Cheers.
We've replaced the driver side needle bearing before with a special extraction tool made by East Coast Gear Supply so we could install an ECGS bushing to reduce play with the CV shaft in the differential. Here's a link to the video we made for that job: ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html
As for the passenger side tube, we haven't replaced that bearing yet. I looked at my factory service manual and it shows removing the differential tube to get the intermediate shaft #2 out and then using a press to remove the bearing off the shaft and using a press to put it back on. The relevant pages in my 2000 FSM are SA-30, 34 & 35.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply!
Nice video, can you show the link where I can buy the tool for installing the seal, thanks.
absolute-wits-end.com/toyota-4wd-ifs-output-shaft-seal-driver/
Can you secure three pieces of metal on the outside of the pipe with a metal strap at 5.5 millimeters from the end of the pipe so you can just tap it in without worrying too much?
There's a real handy tool the Wit's End company made for driving in the seals. We showcase it in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html
Do you have a link for the Toyota repair manual you use?
palaciosivan100 I own the physical books. You could find a set on EBay for sale. If you’re looking for an online version, you’ll need to do a Google search for it.
Thank you for everything Tim, the Google Doc Master tool list is just the 1st page (outline). There is nothing else after that. Do you have another link for it?
Amazon told us we couldn't have that master tool list because it somehow violated their rules of being an Amazon Associate member so I had to take it down.
mine leaking too but the cv axle play and move so do i need to replace the cv axle as well?
There's some play at the connection of the CV axle to the differential. Sometimes gross play can be experienced at the driver side connection because there's a needle bearing that wears out. A common fix is to install an East Coast Gear Supply bushing in place of the needle bearing. We have a video for that job. ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html
oh man... that difficult is put that seal? ... oh well... i was thinking to replace the seal too bc I replacing the cv axle, BUT i will no even touch the seal. hoping when take the cv axle out have no leak.
It's not really that hard. It's just tedious being careful not to driving in the seal too far.
@@TimmyTheToolman but i dont have that tool you used to put back. So by your recommendation its better to replace the seal??? my car is 14 yeas old. LOL
@@r.c.850 If it ain't broke don't fix it. If it's leaking gear oil, replace the seal. If it isn't, I'd leave it alone.
Great video but I want to know what the that dirt bike with a three wheeler tires is!!! COOL A*!!!
It's a Yamaha Big Wheel 200. They were made in the 80's.
So, at 4:15 you're holding the old one and the new one side by side. The old one has a gold metal ring around it, and the new one was just rubber. Do you install the new one without that gold ring?
Don’t get caught up on the color. The part looks slightly different in color but is the same part. The new one is still metal, but just isn’t the same brass color.
I am going to be replacing this on a 2007 fj cruiser. Do you know if it is a similar job for a 2007 fj cruiser? Does it go in 5.5mm also? I cant find much online
Any vehicle with CV axles should be very similar. Now how far should you drive in the seal? Can't say its exactly 5.5mm. What you should do before you remove the old seal is try to measure it or at least take a visual note of how far it is driven in & attempt to get it back in the same position. It's important you have a tool to drive in the seal evenly so try to find a seal driver kit like the one we link or gather something together that will be a slightly smaller outer diameter of the seal.
Is this the same front diff that an 08 FJ Cruiser has? Mine are leaking and I need to replace them.
No, this wouldn't be the same differential but they may be similar and the techniques and steps we show to remove and replace the seals could be helpful to you.
Hey timmy on the passenger side when you pulled the seal out there was a bearing on the other side of it. Could you name that bearing for me please? Thanks man!
I'm at work and I don't have my factory service manual available. I could get back to you in a couple days. If I forget, message me again.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks man. I'll check back in a couple days.
Why don't they slighty relieve the very back outer edge of those seals ... and alternatively would it make it easier if you would have done so?
I'm not understanding what you're saying. What do you mean by "relieve"?
Would this work same way for a 86 4runner
It would be very similar. Just pay attention to the depth the original seal was installed to and replicate it.
What about replacing that inner bearing?
ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.htmlsi=R4qWaQc_9SQu5B3h
Timmy, do you have anything on replacing the front wheel bearings? I read somewhere that someone had done theirs and when they pressed everything back in the tone ring and retainer were spinning independently of the wheel. I pressed my bearings in today and I noticed the same thing happening, you can turn the tone ring along with the retainer and the wheel wasn't moving, seems pretty strange. It looks like pressing in bearings on a 4runner is a science.
Dude, this is weird because I was just pressing front wheel bearings yesterday but it was for a guys project for putting manual hubs from a Tacoma on his 3rd Gen 4runner. I unfortunately don't have experience with the 3rd Gen hubs yet.
You lost me on the tone ring but I looked it up and it's synonymous with the ABS sensor rotor. Next to the ABS sensor rotor is a bearing spacer (at least that is what the FSM calls it), is that what you are calling the retainer?
When I did a CV axle reboots and replacements, I had noticed something in the back of the hub that was moving freely. It must have been the ABS rotor and/or retainer. Sean has a set of knuckles we pulled off a wrecked 4runner at a local Pick and Pull. I'm stuck at work for the next couple days but maybe I can have him take a look at the knuckles and take some pics for me and tell me what's actually able to move on the backside of the hub.
I asked Sean and he doesn't have his spare knuckles with him. They're at a relative's house and he won't be there until Wednesday.
Timmy, appreciate the response. I was desperately searching all over the web to find the thread that referenced the speed sensor and the bearing spacer. I called those parts by other names since I didn't know the correct term for it. I found the thread and people were confused about the same issue, then someone said that the speed sensor and spacer does indeed move freely until you tighten the CV into the knuckle and it stops moving. Looks like I wasn't going crazy.
www.justanswer.com/toyota/849ke-toyota-tundra-sr5-just-pressed-front-wheel-bearing.html
Cool, glad you got your answer and I learned something from you about our hubs. Now I know what was moving when I put my finger in there. I remember thinking, is that the bearing? Thanks!
Hi, I have a 03 tundra 4wd. Upper, lower ball joints, both front wheel bearings have been replaced. Front drivers cv axle has been replaced along with both lower control arms with cams and bushings. Since I had the truck, I hear this rumbling noise from 15-80 mph. The rumble changes as speed changes obviously but for the love of God, I cannot pinpoint what is bad. I suspect the front diff output shaft bearing. Any thoughts?
Have you inspected the u-joints on your rear driveshaft? It could be a bad u-joint. Do you regularly grease the zerk fittings?
@@TimmyTheToolman yes, regularly.
I'm guessing Eric didn't have a diff drop put on?
What are your thoughts on them? It seems like some people like them and others don't for potential bigger problems down the road. Another great video!
Hey Jesse, Eric does have a differential drop, but from what I understand, you can only drop the differential 1 inch. That still leaves a 2" difference with a 3" lift in the front. So, even with a diff drop installed, you could still have CV axle boot ribs that are rubbing together. The fix is to stretch the boot out a little farther so the ribs won't touch each other due to the steeper angle the CV axles now have. We show one way to do a boot stretch mod in our CV Axle Reboot video: ua-cam.com/video/vcCT4UgFUTw/v-deo.html
I don't know what potential problems you could have with the differential drop other than you need spacers to put your front skid plate back on right. If I put a lift on my truck, I'd use a diff drop to improve the CV angle.
When Eric comes over my place for some more work, I'm going to try another variation of the boot stretch mod that you can do without removing the CV Axle.
Timmy The Toolman I just watched your CV reboot video. Once my OME lift is installed I'll keep an eye on those 18 year old boots.
Once the weather warms up I may just reboot them in case they do split and wear down the internals. Thanks again!
No problem Jesse. Definitely keep an eye on those inner CV boots after you lift it. They are known to tear right near the small clamp on the inner boot. The new angle is too much for the old boot to take and they rip. You want to catch it quick so you can save your OEM axles and be able to reboot them.
Hey Jesse, I recently worked on Eric's truck again and I noticed his inner CV boot ribs are not rubbing but the outer boot ribs are definitely rubbing. I suspect he'll have a premature failure of the outer boots because of it. The boot materials are very different though. The inner boot is a rubber compound while the outer is a plastic compound. I'm guessing the inner boot is rubber because that joint can slide in and out and thus a more pliable material is needed. The outer joint just turns and doesn't have to elongate so a stiff plastic works fine. I've personally seen more inner boot failures so I'm wondering if the outer plastic boot is a little more durable than the inner rubber boot. I guess time will tell.
So, I think the differential drop helped keep the inner boot ribs from rubbing by lessening the angle.
Well my inner boot on the drivers side gave up the ghost. Small amount of tan coloured grease...
Also my passenger side front diff seal is leaking gear oil slowly. Might as well bite the bullet, reboot both sides and change that seal while I'm there! These videos will be a huge asset! Thanks Tim and Sean!
Question for Triple T. I just replaced my drivers side bearing and seal a couple weeks back. I made sure the seal it was flush to match the one I took off but must not have done a good enough job as it has a slow seeping leak only when I drive the truck. It is possible I was a little off, lol. I went out and bought a new seal and digital calipers to make sure I get the 5.5. My question is, if I still see leaking at that point, then what?
Hey Steve, maybe give it a little time. What you're seeing might have just been a little residual oil that squeaked out when you install the axle. Have you wiped it up several times and it keeps leaking?
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes I have cleaned it up good a good 4 or 5 times. I took some pictures of it after this last time I cleaned it up and looked under the truck last night and saw the wet look again. I plan on taking another picture of it today after I go get another seal just in case.
@@stever8822 Did you take a good look at the CV axle where the seal rides? Maybe there's a worn spot where the seal is riding. Are these OEM axles or aftermarket? If aftermarket, maybe their machining of that part of the axle was a little off and the diameter is slightly less than OEM and the seal isn't getting a tight fit on the axle.
@@TimmyTheToolman When I was in there I didn't see anything suspicious but it has been a couple weeks now so can't really remember. The CV Axle is is OE, so the only things that were after market was the ECGS Bearing and the seal. The original seal looked to have some sort of metal case with the seal mounted within it but the new one I got from ECGS looked to have the entirety encased in rubber much like yours in this video.
@@stever8822 I guess your only choice is to remove the CV axle, inspect the seal to see if there are any glaring problems with it to get an idea of why it was leaking and then pull it out and try again with a new seal. I hope the second time around is successful for you. Let me know how it turns out.
Everybody is sending me your way but I'm so confused. This video is extremely helpful and follows the FSM to a T, but I have a 97 and my FSM matches my vehicle exactly. The oil seals on the driver side of the differential and the passenger side differential tube are the same seal on my runner. I can't figure out what the part number should be and everything about it is so perplexing
They can't be the same seal. They are two totally different sizes.
Hey Tim great video as always. However I just did this in my 4runner even used the micrometer and got it right at 5.5mm yet I still have the slow drip leak on my passenger side. Anyone on here got any idears what the he'll could be happening. I'm ordering another seal AutoZone instead of the toyota oem to see if that makes a difference. I'm at a loss as of now. I'm really worried I'm getting dirt and mud in my diff from this seal leak and worried about doing damage to my gears and bearings
interesting. I've determined that 5.5 measurement is a ballpark measurement and doesn't have to be absolutely precise. As long as the seal is mating well with the CV axle, it shouldn't leak. I just installed a diff seal in a buddies truck yesterday. instead of painstakingly taking a depth measurement around the whole seal, I just got it fairly flush with that inner lip and called it good. Did you wipe up the drip and it comes back? Sometimes there will be a little bit of oil pooled on the other side of the seal and when you inset the CV shaft, that little bit squeezes out and that's the drip you're seeing. I've seen it happen on one of my rigs.
Thanks for the prompt reply man that's awesome. Yea I wiped it once today and it just came back. When I pulled out the old seal it came out pretty easily and the new one went in with a fair amount of ease too. I might try pulling the stuff apart again and just setting the new seal in and try pushing it in with the cv its self. You think thatd work? Ive started to hear a small high pitched whine when in 4wd. You think dust and dirt has done damage to the gears and bearings from this leak?
@@kosmonautfpv4920 So you're saying the seal inserted with relative ease? Both times I've done this job, the seals had to be hammered in with a decent about of force. Did you look at the surface of the CV shaft for any imperfections. I don't think it would be wise to try to insert the seal by using the CV axle. I wonder if you have some type of crack in the housing. Clean it up really good and take a hard look. I don't think you got any dirt into your differential. That whine could be a bearing going bad.
Will do tomorrow man. I had to hammer it in but not a whole lot. Well that eases my mind for sure about the bearing. Thanks
Good job man. I want to ask you something. Can this leak damage clutch as well(i know that it can damage transmition and differential as they are in the same housing. But i dont know if clutch will be affected by this leak). Thank you!!
A leak from these seals will only affect the front differential. It would not affect the transmission or clutch.
@@TimmyTheToolman Okay, i thought it affects transmition because in the video tou said that there is no gear oil cause of this leak.
Yeah, the gear oil was practical all gone from his front differential which would affect the gears inside the front differential but nothing else. The lack of oil in the front differential would not affect any other components.
@@TimmyTheToolman Okay, i misunderstanded waht you said. Thank you for the answer!!
@@tolis5631 You're welcome.
is the diff still working even with those metal shavings?
Hey Bardia, amazingly it is. I asked Eric if he had ever checked the front differential gear oil. He said no and he's owned the truck for 2 years. Who knows how long that differential was low on gear oil. I asked him if he had been using 4 wheel drive and he said he had. He likes to go snowboarding so I imagine he has been using it when he goes up to the mountains.
This just proves how important it is to check over a used vehicle after you buy it. One of the first things I did when I bought my rig was replace all the fluids in the engine, transmission, transfer, and differentials to start off fresh.
Who knows how long his front differential will last with the damage it sustained by running low on gear oil.
It's incredibly irresponsible for a mechanic to allow that transmission to run. His friend may be lucky but that is supremely the outlier.
Should I replace them if I'm recently replacing the CV axles? Had no prior leaks but would it be worth it?
If they're not leaking, don't bother. I think these seals can last a long time. Pulling the CV axles out isn't that labor intensive, so if you ever do develop a leak, it's not a big deal to pull it again to replace the seal.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for your feedback. 🤙🏽
@@Yotapuga You're welcome.
I’m on this thread. Need to replace the driver’s side CV axle on my ‘07 4th gen and getting worried on the seal set-up. Thanks Timmy ‘ n Shaun.
What about the bearings? Can i change them from there or open up the diff?
What bearing are you talking about? On the driver side of the differential, you can replace a needle bearing the CV shaft rides on without opening up the differential. The bearing that is visible on the passenger side requires you to pull the tube that attaches to the differential. As for the bearings inside the main differential, you'd have to pull the differential and tear it apart to replace those bearings.
There is a loose when I grab the passenger's side flange that goes in the diff..
1992 4runner ..ADD
Ok thanks for your video. I have a 2006 armada LE, front driver side axle shaft is wobbly on the inner end, does it mean it’s the shaft that needs replacing or the bearing inside?
Also can I drive the car with that particular shaft out of the car?
My guess is the bearing inside the differential is bad on that side. I suppose you could drive it with one shaft out but you'd then lose gear oil and provide a way for dirty and road debris to get into you differential. I guess you could stuff a rag or something in there for the time being while you figure out what you're going to do. The best option is to fix the problem and put the axle shaft back in before driving it.
@@TimmyTheToolman again? Please stop recommending these dangerous options. It IS NOT ok to drive with the shaft out, how can you possibly justify that option, regardless of customer circumstances. Correct these errors please.
@@andyfumo8931 Desperate measures call for desperate acts. Did you read my response? By no means am I recommending this guy do this. But, say this is his only transportation and he wanted to drive his vehicle a short distance to an auto parts store, stuffing a rag in the open side would work for a short time. When 4wheeling, guys break all kinds of shit and they piece it together the best way they can and get back to civilization. So, ease up there Andy. I'm not telling the guy to jump off a bridge.
Would this information and part info be the same for a 1st gen tacoma 4x4?
Yes, it would.
@@TimmyTheToolman appreciate you and the time you take to make these videos.
@@gholiday52 Our pleasure. We're here to help.
whats part number i need to order for 2006 lexus rx400h axle seal front driver side
I don't know. I've never worked on the Lexus model you mentioned. Your best bet is to visit your local Lexus parts department and order it.
Hey Tim, thanks for the video. The link to the Absolute Wits End tool doesn't work. Do you know if this company is still in business? The link says "store unavailable".
I unfortunately don't know the status of his business. I think he's going through some legal battles. I've tried to contact him, but he hasn't responded back to me.
Do the axles need to be greased where they ride against the new seal?or wiped off and regreased? Or something similar?
It doesn't hurt to add some pre-assembly grease to the seal lip so the first turns the CV axle makes doesn't cause any excessive wear. Once the vehicle starts really moving, gear oil is constantly up against the seal keeping it lubricated.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks
@@tylerkrug7719 You're welcome.
How many oil seals are there front and rear Differential, plus the Transmission itself right?
Don't know how many seals total there are for both diffs and trans. Is this just a question out of curiosity or are you trying to repair something?
@@TimmyTheToolman Well since my 4Runner is leaking everywhere except the engine, thats a question from me to an expert like you.
@@keijimuto Well, I would first degrease everything under your rig as best as you can and then keep a close eye on things. The wind velocity when driving can blow oil backwards and areas that are wet with oil might not actually be a source of an oil leak. Your differentials have seals for both axle shafts and for the companion flange. The transmission has an input and output seal. Those are all the shaft seals that could be showing signs of leaking other than the many gasket seals that seal the differential and transmission parts together.
@@TimmyTheToolman Alright at the moment underneath all look like a oily mess, also the steering pump leaked a lot and will be replaced as well. Thanks for the info.
What type of oil does it contain?
We put 75w-90 into this vehicle, but refer to your vehicles manual to understand what weight gear oil you should use.
- Sean
7:24 mark, is that the flywheel that is visible in the upper left side?
Dude, really good eye. I never noticed that. That is the flex plate which is basically the same as a flywheel. Manual transmissions have a flywheel and auto transmissions have a flex plate. Obviously, Eric is missing the access plate on the bottom of his bell housing.
I thought you were doing a tranny swap for this guy as well! any plans of doing a video of a transmission replacment?
We already replaced Sean's auto transmission. Other repair jobs and life got in the way of getting the editing done but I just finished the rough editing of Part 1. It's most likely going to be a 4 Part video since it's a long and involved repair and we always document these repairs as comprehensively as possible so breaking it up into parts makes the most sense.
Sean was originally doing all the editing but it's a very long tedious job. We are now sharing the editing responsibility with me going through the clips first doing all the rough cuts creating the content I feel is important and then Sean takes over refining the video, adding in cool things like Factory Service Manual pages, close-ups, quirky funny stuff, taking out more of my uhs and ums and just making it a nicer video to watch. I have more respect for what Sean has done with our videos because it really is a ton of work doing the editing.
I'm hoping we'll have the 4 part series out within a week, two weeks max.
Thanks Timmy! do you know the diameter of the sleeve you used to drive the drivers side seal in?
Hey James, I don't know the exact diameter of the seal driver we used. We just chose a driver that matched up best with the diameter of the bushing from the OTC kit I own. A link to the kit I used is in the video description.
I used two different diameter exhaust connections from the auto store. Diameters were 2-3/4" for the passenger side, and 2-1/2" for the driver side. I would recommend trying to find a 2-7/8" diameter sleeve for the passenger side, the above will work as I couldn't find that diameter at the auto store.
@@elkcrzdfrk197 good info. How did you go about hammering the seals in using the exhaust connectors?
is there the needle bearing within this video? if so, what timeStamp
Not in this video, but check out our other video on this topic:
ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank You!
@@efil4kizum You're welcome.
I need to do both sides on my 95 Tacoma 4x4. My guy is charging me $250 in labor, is that fair? Thank you
I'd say that's a pretty fair price. It'a decent amount of labor to pull the CV axles, pull the seals, accurately drive the seals in and get it all back together.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you Sir. I figured since one side is leaking, why not do the other too. My 95.5 has 215K
@@raydonovan7988 You're welcome.
Step 1: clean underbody
Yeah, that would be nice.