6 years later in New Zealand in the southern pacific and Timmy and Sean saving my bacon with the boost of confidence of seeing the process and all the tips. Thanks so much legends! Cheers!
@@TimmyTheToolman I'll keep an eye out! I hope he is enjoying it here. If he needs anything let me know. Happy to repay all the knowledge and tutorials I've consumed from you guys. Cheers!
Champion, that's all I was after was how far to push it in and you delivered where everyone else videos did not, thankyou for detailing the important parts of the job
You're welcome Tim. I would guess you are not the first nor will you be the last that makes this mistake. It's nicer when the seal driving is much more straight forward and you can just bottom it out.
Yup, drove it in until it seated. Realized I was wrong, pulled it out and had to replace it with a new one. Toyota is known for their engineering skills but someone dropped the ball on this design.
I had to recently change the CV axles in my 06 GX470 and used you're other video to accomplish that task. Unfortunately, the passenger side decided to start leaking. Thankfully Timmy and his buddies made this excellent tutorial! Best videos on UA-cam...you need the highest award! Much appreciation Sir!
Thanks Steve. We appreciate your nice compliment of our channel. We actually replaced the differential axle seals on Thanh's GX470 because one of his seals started leaking too after we swapped out the axles. We used a new installation tool make by Wit's End which made the job much easier. Check out the video: ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html
I'm elbow deep in this project right now. I appreciate all the tips, especially on how to seat the new seal. One point that's worth mentioning - if you decide to use a prybar to remove the old seal, be very careful not to scar the housing where seal sits like I did. It's worth buying or renting a slide hammer! Also, if you don't have a depth guage to measure the 5mm depth of the seal, get a tire depth guage from the auto parts store, they're 3 dollars.
I bought a seal driver kit, all the drivers are flat, the seals are raised away from the metal part of the seals, I then watched this video and at first I was going to do what you did but with a piece of 3 inch diameter pipe but I watched another video on this and the guy(cant remember who) used a oil filter wrench/socket that worked perfectly. I could tap in the middle or sides. Made it simple. Great video as usual!
Hey Anthony, the oil filter wrench socket sounds like a good technique. I guess you just need to buy the right size oil filter socket for each side since the the driver and passenger side seals are different diameters. There's always more than one way to accomplish something. This is especially true with press work. Guys come up with all kinds of ingenious ways to get things done. Thanks for sharing this technique and we're glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!
Hey Matt, there is a great seal insertion tool made by the Wits' End company. We feature it in this video and provide a link to it in the video description. ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html It makes installing the seal very, very easy. I love it! I wish I have it when making this video.
Thank you so much, this video saved my life. Had a leaking passenger differential oil seal on an FJ Cruiser, have the right amount driven in, no more leaking. Turns out I had accidentally installed it backwards.
Thank you for your awesome videos! They are so helpful! I couldn't have done this job, and most other jobs, without your help. You provide accurate information and instil confidence that I too can do such jobs. Thank you!!! I finally got around to replacing my leaking CV shafts and oil seals. That right side (driver's side for me) oil seal wasn't easy, eh! The first time it wasn't straight, and leaked. New oil seal again. The second time I knocked it in too far, and it leaked. New oil seal again. Third time I think I've got it, nothing is leaking after 200km of sand and 400km of highway. Timmy. I think I may have set off a little debate, too..... sorry about that. I wish I lived closer so I could buy you a beer (or a slab) to apologise properly. Now I've done it, you couldn't get it in the wrong way, and even if you did, it would leak instantly. 1997 Hilux Surf KZN185W SSRX 3.0TD: Purchased in Japan and brought it back to Australia with me.
Hey MIkey, you're very welcome. It's nice to hear our videos have helped you out a lot. It's especially cool to hear our videos have given you the confidence to do jobs that you might have otherwise not tackled without having our videos to follow. We appreciate you taking the time to comment and share your success stories with us. Happy Wrenching!
After seeing all the metal shrapnel that came out of the pan, you guys put new seals in and ran this? OMG!! Guess this will be on Craigslist again very soon.
jim davidson Hey Jim, it's not "You Guys", it's Eric who owns the vehicle. The last time I talked with him, everything is fine with his rig. Would I personally run a differential after seeing all those metal chunks come out? No, I wouldn't. I'd get it sent out and rebuilt and maybe have an ARB locker installed at the same time.
I just tried this. I was having trouble getting the jaws to tighten/widen inside because that round lock nut thing you are using there was just barely able to get on the outside of the back of the jaws to tighten it. I found once I had some of the rubber removed from the seal to give more room I was able to widen and tighten that nut more to widen the jaws inside. Thanks for the video. Finally just got mine out.
Nice! Thanks for sharing your experience - we hope people like you sharing their technique will help others in the future that read through the comments so thanks for stopping by and commenting. - Sean
Great video, the part numbers for the seal were the same as the seals for my 2005 Tundra TRD SR5 so I used your technique of "5.5mm" and it worked like a charm. I had previously installed a new seal all the way into the tube and it was leaking by really bad, but your info saved the job. It's too bad the Tundra FSM did not reveal that little tidbit of information. Thanks Bro!
Thanks for taking the time to check back here & comment. It's comments like these that maintain the momentum & desire to create more content for the masses. We referenced the original seal depth as well to be certain of the correct depth. So don't forget to measure where the failed seal was seated before removing it.
Vary nice video! I get to do this soon! Seeing how when I replaced my CV boot, topped my fluid off (one quart) and with in 24 hours it was gone... I really appreciate the video and the options you gave for tools. Thanks man.
Hey Chase, check the video description under the "Helpful Tools" heading. There's a much better tool for driving in the seals made by the Wit's End company. I show it's use in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html After we shot the video, Wit's End made it even better by creating an extra long handle to marry up to the seal driver plate.
Thanks Kevin. There's now a tool made by Wits End that makes the seal insertion fool proof. We use it in this video. ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html We provide links to the Wits End tools in the video description.
Another solid video Tim. I ended up swapping out the passenger side cv axle only to have the seal start leaking, doh. I knew in my better judgment that I should have replaced the seal but I figured it would be ok. Guess not!
Aaron Phelps Hey Aaron, give it a few days and watch it. It’s not uncommon that you see a little drip of oil after replacing the CV axles because a little residual oil that was displaced when inserting the shaft drips down.
@@TimmyTheToolman Will do. Good to know. I did order both seals from Toyota since I have to swap out the drivers side axle (I'm going to rebuild the passenger side) and just keep the reman unit on the passenger side for now. Gonna do the toytec lift and head out to Moab in a month so I'm trying to get my old T4R up to snuff.
Hey Tim. There was a guy who left a comment on one of these CV axle or front diff seal videos of yours who said he had a difficult time removing the CV axle and he had to remove his shock as a result of that. I actually ran into the same problem this morning on my 2000 Tacoma 4x4. I had the Hub completely pulled out of the way with baling wire and also had my floor jack kind of supporting it to relieve the tension of the brake line. The axle was getting hung up between the bottom of the shock and the sway bar link. I tried every which angle to get that thing out of there and could not. I was just getting ready to remove the shock and realized it would probably be easier to disconnect the sway bar links on both sides, swivel the sway bar up, and swivel the end links down. That created plenty of room to pull the old axle out. This was on the passenger side. I will be doing axles and seals on both sides but just wanted to throw this out there for anyone who is running into this issue. Thanks again for these awesome videos!
Thanks for sharing your experience. There's a tool made by the Wit's End company that makes the seal insertion much easier. We feature it in this video. Check it out: ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes sir we chatted about it already lol. Arrived this afternoon. Just waiting on my new seals from Amazon to arrive in the next day or two
I just subscribed. Thanks for this video Timmy. I just replace my Output Oil Seal on my 2006 Tacoma PreRunner and used NGLI #2 Grease according to Toyota's manual. Thanks again for this video. Love the content
Hey Minh, If you interested in this kit, here's a link: www.ebay.com/itm/262449077356?orderid=&rmvSB=true I've seen this same kit on Amazon and other sites but this is by far the most affordable price I found.
Thanks for the video. My daughter purchased a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 Extra Cab. The Front Differential Axle Shaft Oil Seals are leaking on both sides but, much more on the right side. It leaks differential fluid after the four wheel drive has been engaged for a brief period. When four wheel drive is not engaged, the leaking stops. I have done my own DIY repairs myself, like replacing brakes pads, radiators, alternators, valve cover gaskets. Replacing the Front Differential Axle Shaft Oil Seals, on my daughter's 1998 Toyota Tacoma, looks like a job for a skilled mechanic and not a job for me.
An easy way to seat the seal is put it in freezer first to shrink it. Then you can begin to seat it with your fingers. Then, take your old seal, cut the rubber dust ring off, and it will lay over the new seal so you can hit it to drive in new seal. An easy way to drive it in is get a 2 foot or so 2x4 and it will extend far enough out of the wheel well to hit the end of the board with a hammer. Easier than trying to tap it with hammer with lower control arm in the way...
Thanks for sharing your tips Andrew. We actually now have a custom made driver for this made by the company Wits End. absolute-wits-end.com/toyota-4wd-ifs-output-shaft-seal-driver/
@@TimmyTheToolman TW Matic here. Just ordered the wits end driver reccomended from another TW member today. Doing both my seals this weekend. Lucky me has the front diff on the workbench as I just got it back from ecgs with new 4:56 nitro's and a harrop e-locker. Excellant vid as always. Merry Christmas!
@@matic1203cc You'll like that Wits End driver. It works really well. I'm planning on re-gearing soon and also going with a Harrop locker for my front diff. How much did ECGS charge you for the job? Glad you like the video. Merry Christmas back at ya!
@@TimmyTheToolman $2100 and a core. gears, locker and wiring harness. They even spiffied up the diff with fresh paint. I had a buddy drop off a random front diff for my core and he lives a stones throw from ecgs and i'm just south in SC. So I didnt have any shipping charges to get a core there. I want to say shipping the completed diff to me was also free.
Hey Jeff, good to hear you like our channel. We have a 30,000 Miles Service video that covers greasing the driveshafts. On the 3rd Gen 4runners, there's only zerk grease fittings on the front (if you have 4wd) and rear driveshafts. No where else are there grease fittings. ua-cam.com/video/a81i1Cayf_I/v-deo.html
We're glad you like the video. Just take your time seating the new seal so you don't end up pressing it in too far. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
If the seal is to fit at the same level as the outer ridge, you could use a sleeve that, not only, fits the diameter of the seal but whose sleeve walls are thick enough to extend out further to meet with the outer ridge. That way, there would be no way of installing the seal beyond the outer ridge. Also, if your sleeve was shorter in length, you'd have more room for hammering. A sleeve (like what I've suggested, above) could be made by gluing one diameter of PVC pipe inside a wider diameter of PVC pipe. $2?
That's an excellent idea provided you could find the right size PVC pipes. PVC pipes come in definite industry standard diameters so you might not find two that will work perfectly for this application.
Second that, and adaptor to a screwed connection gave me the extra lip on my case. Definitely a budget friendly and soft material valid alternative. Cheers!
@@TimmyTheToolman I just replaced axle seal on a friend's 2012 Jeep liberty on the right front and the slide hammer tool wouldn't grab it good enough to pull it out and of course that seal is recessed about 2" in, so the hand held seal puller wouldn't get it either, so I spent 3 hours digging at it with anything I could find and hammer and chisel, Dremel tool, definitely not a fun time.
It's a 1987 Yamaha BW200. It basically has ATV tires. They made them in the mid to late 80's and then stopped making them. Honda made something similar called the Fat Cat. I use it when I do volunteer trail work. I strap a chainsaw on the back rack and ride trails cutting out down trees along the way.
Tim- OUTSTANDING VIDEO!! You are one of the BEST published, professionally produced videos for Mechanical repairs on UTUBE! I have subscribed and "liked" your video !! I have a question, regarding the replacement of CV axel on Landcruiser/ LX 470. I just did the passenger side and replaced the oil seal as well ( it was leaking) I got a remanufactured Toyota OEM drive shaft ( I very much dislike the aftermarket cheap crap that's 1/4 the price of OEM products ) When I was installing it, my assistant put a block of wood over the end it, and hammered a few times with a regular claw hammer. It did not go in and the C clip on the diff side of the spline is designed to hold it IN!. I did more research and found a video that used a drift punch or pry bar and place it on the lip of the large circle and hammered it on that small lip with a 2x2 or metal drift punch. THAT WORKED! My question is, did pounding a few times on the end of the CV shaft damage it ?? IT has some linear play in it now,( under the inner side boot) so I am really nervous if it's damaged and working? I reinstalled both Ball joints and torqued to factory specs. I know after I reassemble everything i will know in a second if it's broken. BTW - I have never replaced a CV axel much less on a 4 wheel drive LX. I'm kind of stuck now and REALLY need a prompt response so I hope you check this site or get a notification daily Look fwd to your reply on what i should check, troubleshoot or what... i should do to complete it today Thank you Tim
Thank you for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! You didn't do any damage to your CV axle pounding on it with block of wood. I wouldn't worry about it. Good job doing the work yourself. Happy Wrenching!
We do specify the different part numbers for both sides since they are different in the video description, however, the technique to install them is the same. - Sean
Im sure glad to know there are two sizes. I have a 2006 4x4 4runner. Should they also be 2 different sizes? I'll be tackling this job soon. I surappreciate your videos. Thanks!
Use the square for the depth adjust if and lock it down use the body for the housing and the rule part for the depth if I am making since just thinking outside the box if you dont have a caliper
Timmy I guess better way to explain is set the square depth to what the original seal is before you take it out to get you in ballpark when you put in new seal iui s this a little better explanation
Putting the seals in a freezer isn't necessary. They install with minimal force. The concern with this job is driving in the seals to the proper depth. Check the video description for a link to a special seal driver tool to make the insertion of the seal foolproof.
oh man... that difficult is put that seal? ... oh well... i was thinking to replace the seal too bc I replacing the cv axle, BUT i will no even touch the seal. hoping when take the cv axle out have no leak.
@@TimmyTheToolman but i dont have that tool you used to put back. So by your recommendation its better to replace the seal??? my car is 14 yeas old. LOL
Hey Tim excellent video! Im doing mine today. I have a 97 T100 3.4l 4x4 my fam and I ran her silly in Big Bear this last week..snow, much, mud and some gritty rocky paths! She handles super solid. Until I ran her into a 4' water hole and got her jammed up for a bit. Couple folks came down the path and Wenched us out no problem. Then I ended up with a front pass. Diff leak. From what I read, a blocked breather valve? On the front diff...can you do a video or maybe spare a quick tip on unclogging and or preventing another seal blow out? Thanks again Tim! Appreciate your thorough real human perspective!
We probably wouldn't make a video on the topic of a clogged breather because it's pretty basic. You find where the breather is located, pull it off the line and blow through it. If air moves through it, it's good. If air doesn't move through it, you replace it. On 3rd Gen 4runners, the front differential breather is extended onto the inside of the driver side fender in the engine compartment. Maybe Toyota put it in the same place on your T100. If it's not in the same place, get under the rig and take a look where the breather is. It shouldn't be that hard to spot. You're seal could have just worn out too. Seals fail from miles and old age. Glad you like the video and Happy Wrenching.
Use a big spanner on the open end put it onto the seal and use a hammer to nock onto the spanner to free the seal i did this without damaging the seal so I can get a new one measured up
I used this about a month ago. I’ve done about 1500 miles and the housing is dry as a desert and the oil is still full. Thank you! Is your buddy’s front differential okay?
We heard Eric rolled his truck and totaled it not too long after filming some jobs with him. i haven't spoken to him in over 7 years. We were never friends, just acquaintances.
@Timmy The Toolman. I need to get this job done on my '98 taco, and am debating getting that press/pull sleeve kit. What other jobs on my truck would that set be useful for? I know you've used it to press out the front wheel bearings, but what other stuff could it be used for? I guess I'm looking for some extra incentive to justify purchasing that toolset... :)
I've also used the press sleeve kit for upper control arm bushing replacements, rear control arm bushing replacements, and the rear axle seal job. If you think you're going to buy a press at some point, the press sleeve kit is nice to have. If you don't plan on tackling your own press work, it would probably be a waste of money.
thanks for the informative video, I've never seen a slide hammer attatchment like you have for pulling seals the easy way, The only attatchment I have is the cast piece to pull cv joint fwd axles away from the transxle, where do I buy one ? when I searched I found pilot bearing/bushing puller they look something like that but smaller thks
Can you secure three pieces of metal on the outside of the pipe with a metal strap at 5.5 millimeters from the end of the pipe so you can just tap it in without worrying too much?
Nice video, and very informative, you've just earned a sub, and if you could it would be great to see a video on how to change that needle bearing. And is that the needle bearing that we are seeing the oil seal go around?
Hey Tyler, I might be helping a guy install a front differential "Clam Shell" equipped with an ARB locker but I don't know if this mod will include replacing any bearings. The oil seal is not really going around any bearing. It's just seated into the ends of the differential housing. There are bearings inside the housing just past the oil seal and that must be what you're talking about. So, if his bearings are fine, I doubt we'll be replacing them. But, who knows. I might find a local 3rd Gen owner that needs this repair and we'll do it for him and make a video of it. Thanks for subscribing. We've got lots of good stuff coming.
Hey Tim, Just wanted to say thanks for the chat today and wanted to know if you had any rear pinion seal replacement video's. My pinion seal is leaking at the differential and need to fix it. I would image those 4 Runners would be the same for a lot of Toyota's. I have 3 Toyota's but this one is a 1991 Previa.
@@keijimuto Well, I would first degrease everything under your rig as best as you can and then keep a close eye on things. The wind velocity when driving can blow oil backwards and areas that are wet with oil might not actually be a source of an oil leak. Your differentials have seals for both axle shafts and for the companion flange. The transmission has an input and output seal. Those are all the shaft seals that could be showing signs of leaking other than the many gasket seals that seal the differential and transmission parts together.
@@TimmyTheToolman Alright at the moment underneath all look like a oily mess, also the steering pump leaked a lot and will be replaced as well. Thanks for the info.
Timmy The Toolman Hi Timmy Just recently Replaced My Cv axles, Lower Ball Joints, Inner and Outer Tie rod Ends For My 97 Toyota 4Runner Sr5 Just had an alignment. Drives great.. Beyond and behold The driver side axle shaft seal On the differential started leaking.. I have a New seal Ordered and ready for pick-up.. I recently watched this your video. So Im going to attemped to give it a try.. My question Is Prior to removing The cv axle Is it possible to just loosen and remove the 4 bolts attaching Lower balljoint to hub or would it be better to Loosen and Remove the 1 lower Nut and leave ball joint attack to The hub..I guess I'm trying to figure out the Best way to go without messing with anything that could effect the alignment Or is A alignment required reguardless. Thanx
Hey Heather, whether you disconnect the lower balljoint at the lower control arm or disconnect it at the steering knuckle makes no difference. The alignment will not be affected. The only way you'd affect the alignment is if you loosened the cam adjuster bolts on the LCAs and turned the cam adjusters or you loosened the set nuts for the outer tie rods and adjusted them. I prefer to just take off the castle nut and break the connection at the LCA with a puller and leave the 4 balljoint bolts alone since I loctited them. Good luck with the axle seal repair.
Just take your time driving in the seal and you'll be fine. It's tedious but just keep rechecking the depth as you're driving it in because you don't want to overshoot. If you do, you'll have to get another seal, because the seal gets destroyed pulling it out. If you're off by a little bit, you'll probably be fine. But, if you drive it in way too far, it won't meet up with the CV axle well and it will leak.
Hi Tim. Really need your advice. I had the same experience with ripped CV boots after suspension lift but I replaced mine with aftermarket ones. I replaced both seals and may have over filled the diff. I now have fluid leaking out. At first there was quite a bit of fluid from both sides but now its just on the passenger side and only when I drive it. Could it have been from over filling the Diff or should I just replace the seals again? my real concern is, if fluid is leaking out then water can get in. Your opinion is much appreciated and respected!!
@gbrianmullinax8448 With overfilling the differential, you would usually see it spewing out the breather that is attached to the driver side fender in the engine compartment unless the rubber breather tube became disconnected from the nipple on the top of the differential. Have you checked to see if the breather is working by blowing through it? Have you checked the top of the differential for signs of gear oil leaking out? It could be a breather or breather tube issue and not the seals. I'd rule those possibilities out before replacing the seals again
@@TimmyTheToolman I looked and it appears the breather tube is connected. I don't see any signs of gear oil at the point of connection. The tube transitions from a soft tube to a hard tube about half way down. I'm not sure I can get to the attachment point on top of the Diff. About the only thing I can check for air flow is the cap at the top of the tube and its okay. Nothing goes as planned, at least for me. I do truly appreciate all your advice
@@gbrianmullinax8448 I'm assuming you installed the seals to the proper depth. Others have had issues with these seals as well. The only other variable is aftermarket CV axles which might not be made to the proper spec and the shaft the seal interfaces with might be undersized. That's the only other thing I can think of why your seals are leaking.
@@TimmyTheToolman As far as I know I did, but who knows I could have completely messed it up. Ill check the dimensions on the axle shafts to see. If there is a second go round I'm leaving it for the professionals. Not going through that again. Thanks again.
@@TimmyTheToolmanJust for grins and giggles I measured them. They are within .03mm of each other. I guess I messed up. Either I installed them incorrectly or damaged them when I installed the aftermarket axles.
Everybody is sending me your way but I'm so confused. This video is extremely helpful and follows the FSM to a T, but I have a 97 and my FSM matches my vehicle exactly. The oil seals on the driver side of the differential and the passenger side differential tube are the same seal on my runner. I can't figure out what the part number should be and everything about it is so perplexing
Hey Timmy, I just did this job for the first time (thank you!). My passenger side seal went in WAY easier than the driver side, so I unintentionally pounded it just a bit past flush. ***Should I be concerned? It seems there's actually plenty of room behind it, so I imagine a few mm would be fine, but what do you think? I'm already buttoned back up so I'm hoping to NOT have to dissemble LOL. Thanks!
Well, as long as you're not leaking, you're good to go. I think there's some room for adjustment of the position of the seal and it will still seal fine on the CV axle.
Hey Timmy. If you wanted to replace the bearings while you were there would it be as simple as slide hammering the old bearing out and pressing the new one in as you did with the seal? Cheers.
We've replaced the driver side needle bearing before with a special extraction tool made by East Coast Gear Supply so we could install an ECGS bushing to reduce play with the CV shaft in the differential. Here's a link to the video we made for that job: ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html As for the passenger side tube, we haven't replaced that bearing yet. I looked at my factory service manual and it shows removing the differential tube to get the intermediate shaft #2 out and then using a press to remove the bearing off the shaft and using a press to put it back on. The relevant pages in my 2000 FSM are SA-30, 34 & 35.
Question for Triple T. I just replaced my drivers side bearing and seal a couple weeks back. I made sure the seal it was flush to match the one I took off but must not have done a good enough job as it has a slow seeping leak only when I drive the truck. It is possible I was a little off, lol. I went out and bought a new seal and digital calipers to make sure I get the 5.5. My question is, if I still see leaking at that point, then what?
Hey Steve, maybe give it a little time. What you're seeing might have just been a little residual oil that squeaked out when you install the axle. Have you wiped it up several times and it keeps leaking?
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes I have cleaned it up good a good 4 or 5 times. I took some pictures of it after this last time I cleaned it up and looked under the truck last night and saw the wet look again. I plan on taking another picture of it today after I go get another seal just in case.
@@stever8822 Did you take a good look at the CV axle where the seal rides? Maybe there's a worn spot where the seal is riding. Are these OEM axles or aftermarket? If aftermarket, maybe their machining of that part of the axle was a little off and the diameter is slightly less than OEM and the seal isn't getting a tight fit on the axle.
@@TimmyTheToolman When I was in there I didn't see anything suspicious but it has been a couple weeks now so can't really remember. The CV Axle is is OE, so the only things that were after market was the ECGS Bearing and the seal. The original seal looked to have some sort of metal case with the seal mounted within it but the new one I got from ECGS looked to have the entirety encased in rubber much like yours in this video.
@@stever8822 I guess your only choice is to remove the CV axle, inspect the seal to see if there are any glaring problems with it to get an idea of why it was leaking and then pull it out and try again with a new seal. I hope the second time around is successful for you. Let me know how it turns out.
Hey tim, i purchased the seal #47027 from Amazon and it says position front right. But from your parts list u have it as driver side. Just looking for some clarification before I install. Thanks.
Is it ok to replace a metal seal with a rubber one? When I serch for spare parts I only find rubber ones for the front axel. I found metal one for the pinion seal. I need to replace seals both on front and rear.
Hey Bardia, amazingly it is. I asked Eric if he had ever checked the front differential gear oil. He said no and he's owned the truck for 2 years. Who knows how long that differential was low on gear oil. I asked him if he had been using 4 wheel drive and he said he had. He likes to go snowboarding so I imagine he has been using it when he goes up to the mountains. This just proves how important it is to check over a used vehicle after you buy it. One of the first things I did when I bought my rig was replace all the fluids in the engine, transmission, transfer, and differentials to start off fresh. Who knows how long his front differential will last with the damage it sustained by running low on gear oil.
Watch our ECGS Clamshell Bushing video: ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html. Instead of putting in another needle bearing, consider replacing it with a bushing.
Hey timmy on the passenger side when you pulled the seal out there was a bearing on the other side of it. Could you name that bearing for me please? Thanks man!
Hey Tim, thanks for the video. The link to the Absolute Wits End tool doesn't work. Do you know if this company is still in business? The link says "store unavailable".
I unfortunately don't know the status of his business. I think he's going through some legal battles. I've tried to contact him, but he hasn't responded back to me.
It doesn't hurt to add some pre-assembly grease to the seal lip so the first turns the CV axle makes doesn't cause any excessive wear. Once the vehicle starts really moving, gear oil is constantly up against the seal keeping it lubricated.
Hey Tim, I have a 98 4Runner and I ordered new front brake dust shields, the old ones are rusted out, the shields are one piece so is there any trick to getting the hub with the lug studs off, I really don’t want to make any mistakes removing the hub to replace the dust shields, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Tim.
You would have to press the hub out of the bearing to replace the dust shields. And, because you pressed the hub out, the bearing gets destroyed. So, you have to install new bearings, associated seals and snap rings to do it properly. The only way you could get around this is by cutting the dust shield in half so you could fit it behind the hub to bolt it to the steering knuckle. Here's a link to our wheel bearing replacement video: ua-cam.com/video/Dj-2IzO9RFk/v-deo.htmlsi=Md2IHwK_21so7LNj
@@ccg8895 there are 2 plugs. A fill plug and a drain plug. Watch this video for reference Front Differential Replacement (3rd Gen 4runner or 1st Gen Tacoma) (Part 2) ua-cam.com/video/bOOxfDFUFsA/v-deo.html
Sounds From The Underground. You can use a hook style seal puller. The slide hammer puller is a more versatile tool but not absolutely necessary for doing this job.
I don't need to make it. Wits' End already did. absolute-wits-end.com/toyota-4wd-ifs-output-shaft-seal-driver/ Paired with this extended handle absolute-wits-end.com/extended-handles-for-seal-drive-tools-18/ it makes driving in the seals a breeze. We used the driver plate in this video ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html but didn't have the extended reach handle yet. I did get to use the full combo helping a friend install seals and it was super easy compared to my first experience with this job.
Nice. Though, pretty expensive for something so easily made on a lathe in 15 min . Either way, it seems better than what you had at the time of this video!
There's some play at the connection of the CV axle to the differential. Sometimes gross play can be experienced at the driver side connection because there's a needle bearing that wears out. A common fix is to install an East Coast Gear Supply bushing in place of the needle bearing. We have a video for that job. ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html
Thank you for everything Tim, the Google Doc Master tool list is just the 1st page (outline). There is nothing else after that. Do you have another link for it?
Amazon told us we couldn't have that master tool list because it somehow violated their rules of being an Amazon Associate member so I had to take it down.
palaciosivan100 I own the physical books. You could find a set on EBay for sale. If you’re looking for an online version, you’ll need to do a Google search for it.
Hello timmy! What happens if I had already change the seals the proper way, and toyota original seal, but the passenger side still leaking diff fluid?? What would be the next step!
Good video & information can you make video on a first generation toyota highlander rear axle seal there none on UA-cam I think it would be a great video! Thanks cheer!
What bearing are you talking about? On the driver side of the differential, you can replace a needle bearing the CV shaft rides on without opening up the differential. The bearing that is visible on the passenger side requires you to pull the tube that attaches to the differential. As for the bearings inside the main differential, you'd have to pull the differential and tear it apart to replace those bearings.
I'm guessing Eric didn't have a diff drop put on? What are your thoughts on them? It seems like some people like them and others don't for potential bigger problems down the road. Another great video!
Hey Jesse, Eric does have a differential drop, but from what I understand, you can only drop the differential 1 inch. That still leaves a 2" difference with a 3" lift in the front. So, even with a diff drop installed, you could still have CV axle boot ribs that are rubbing together. The fix is to stretch the boot out a little farther so the ribs won't touch each other due to the steeper angle the CV axles now have. We show one way to do a boot stretch mod in our CV Axle Reboot video: ua-cam.com/video/vcCT4UgFUTw/v-deo.html I don't know what potential problems you could have with the differential drop other than you need spacers to put your front skid plate back on right. If I put a lift on my truck, I'd use a diff drop to improve the CV angle. When Eric comes over my place for some more work, I'm going to try another variation of the boot stretch mod that you can do without removing the CV Axle.
Timmy The Toolman I just watched your CV reboot video. Once my OME lift is installed I'll keep an eye on those 18 year old boots. Once the weather warms up I may just reboot them in case they do split and wear down the internals. Thanks again!
No problem Jesse. Definitely keep an eye on those inner CV boots after you lift it. They are known to tear right near the small clamp on the inner boot. The new angle is too much for the old boot to take and they rip. You want to catch it quick so you can save your OEM axles and be able to reboot them.
Hey Jesse, I recently worked on Eric's truck again and I noticed his inner CV boot ribs are not rubbing but the outer boot ribs are definitely rubbing. I suspect he'll have a premature failure of the outer boots because of it. The boot materials are very different though. The inner boot is a rubber compound while the outer is a plastic compound. I'm guessing the inner boot is rubber because that joint can slide in and out and thus a more pliable material is needed. The outer joint just turns and doesn't have to elongate so a stiff plastic works fine. I've personally seen more inner boot failures so I'm wondering if the outer plastic boot is a little more durable than the inner rubber boot. I guess time will tell. So, I think the differential drop helped keep the inner boot ribs from rubbing by lessening the angle.
Well my inner boot on the drivers side gave up the ghost. Small amount of tan coloured grease... Also my passenger side front diff seal is leaking gear oil slowly. Might as well bite the bullet, reboot both sides and change that seal while I'm there! These videos will be a huge asset! Thanks Tim and Sean!
Timmy, do you have anything on replacing the front wheel bearings? I read somewhere that someone had done theirs and when they pressed everything back in the tone ring and retainer were spinning independently of the wheel. I pressed my bearings in today and I noticed the same thing happening, you can turn the tone ring along with the retainer and the wheel wasn't moving, seems pretty strange. It looks like pressing in bearings on a 4runner is a science.
Dude, this is weird because I was just pressing front wheel bearings yesterday but it was for a guys project for putting manual hubs from a Tacoma on his 3rd Gen 4runner. I unfortunately don't have experience with the 3rd Gen hubs yet. You lost me on the tone ring but I looked it up and it's synonymous with the ABS sensor rotor. Next to the ABS sensor rotor is a bearing spacer (at least that is what the FSM calls it), is that what you are calling the retainer? When I did a CV axle reboots and replacements, I had noticed something in the back of the hub that was moving freely. It must have been the ABS rotor and/or retainer. Sean has a set of knuckles we pulled off a wrecked 4runner at a local Pick and Pull. I'm stuck at work for the next couple days but maybe I can have him take a look at the knuckles and take some pics for me and tell me what's actually able to move on the backside of the hub.
Timmy, appreciate the response. I was desperately searching all over the web to find the thread that referenced the speed sensor and the bearing spacer. I called those parts by other names since I didn't know the correct term for it. I found the thread and people were confused about the same issue, then someone said that the speed sensor and spacer does indeed move freely until you tighten the CV into the knuckle and it stops moving. Looks like I wasn't going crazy. www.justanswer.com/toyota/849ke-toyota-tundra-sr5-just-pressed-front-wheel-bearing.html
Cool, glad you got your answer and I learned something from you about our hubs. Now I know what was moving when I put my finger in there. I remember thinking, is that the bearing? Thanks!
Good job man. I want to ask you something. Can this leak damage clutch as well(i know that it can damage transmition and differential as they are in the same housing. But i dont know if clutch will be affected by this leak). Thank you!!
Yeah, the gear oil was practical all gone from his front differential which would affect the gears inside the front differential but nothing else. The lack of oil in the front differential would not affect any other components.
I'd say that's a pretty fair price. It'a decent amount of labor to pull the CV axles, pull the seals, accurately drive the seals in and get it all back together.
@@TimmyTheToolman They're aftermarket high travel NAPA CVs because my truck has 3" lift and 2"body lift. I'll try pulling the seal out and also checking how it fits in the CV axle. I can't belive how quick you responded!
@@GreyWolfLodge We do our best to answer people's questions and acknowledge comments as quick as possible. It's one of the nice things we try to do for people. We appreciate the comments and like answering people's questions to the best of our ability.
@@TimmyTheToolman I just replaced to seal again and checked the sealing surface of the CV axle and it seems fine but it's still leaking. Do you have any other ideas of what I can look at?
@GreyWolfLodge When you removed the seal, was there any sign of damage to the housing where the seal seats? I'm just wondering if gear oil is getting past the seal to shaft connection or is it getting past the seal to housing connection?
Hey James, I don't know the exact diameter of the seal driver we used. We just chose a driver that matched up best with the diameter of the bushing from the OTC kit I own. A link to the kit I used is in the video description.
I used two different diameter exhaust connections from the auto store. Diameters were 2-3/4" for the passenger side, and 2-1/2" for the driver side. I would recommend trying to find a 2-7/8" diameter sleeve for the passenger side, the above will work as I couldn't find that diameter at the auto store.
6 years later in New Zealand in the southern pacific and Timmy and Sean saving my bacon with the boost of confidence of seeing the process and all the tips. Thanks so much legends! Cheers!
Love to hear we are helping Kiwi’s! My dad moved out there a couple years ago, if you see him, tell him I said hi 👋🏼
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman I'll keep an eye out! I hope he is enjoying it here. If he needs anything let me know. Happy to repay all the knowledge and tutorials I've consumed from you guys. Cheers!
Champion, that's all I was after was how far to push it in and you delivered where everyone else videos did not, thankyou for detailing the important parts of the job
You're welcome. I'm glad our video gave you the information you needed to succeed.
Anyone else here because they didn’t watch this video first before driving the seal in too far??
Thanks for the videos, Tim!
You're welcome Tim. I would guess you are not the first nor will you be the last that makes this mistake. It's nicer when the seal driving is much more straight forward and you can just bottom it out.
Yup, drove it in until it seated. Realized I was wrong, pulled it out and had to replace it with a new one. Toyota is known for their engineering skills but someone dropped the ball on this design.
I had to recently change the CV axles in my 06 GX470 and used you're other video to accomplish that task. Unfortunately, the passenger side decided to start leaking. Thankfully Timmy and his buddies made this excellent tutorial! Best videos on UA-cam...you need the highest award! Much appreciation Sir!
Thanks Steve. We appreciate your nice compliment of our channel. We actually replaced the differential axle seals on Thanh's GX470 because one of his seals started leaking too after we swapped out the axles. We used a new installation tool make by Wit's End which made the job much easier. Check out the video: ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html
I'm elbow deep in this project right now. I appreciate all the tips, especially on how to seat the new seal. One point that's worth mentioning - if you decide to use a prybar to remove the old seal, be very careful not to scar the housing where seal sits like I did. It's worth buying or renting a slide hammer! Also, if you don't have a depth guage to measure the 5mm depth of the seal, get a tire depth guage from the auto parts store, they're 3 dollars.
@@JustBelieveInChrist Yep, you have to be careful with the hooked style seal pullers.
I bought a seal driver kit, all the drivers are flat, the seals are raised away from the metal part of the seals, I then watched this video and at first I was going to do what you did but with a piece of 3 inch diameter pipe but I watched another video on this and the guy(cant remember who) used a oil filter wrench/socket that worked perfectly.
I could tap in the middle or sides. Made it simple.
Great video as usual!
Hey Anthony, the oil filter wrench socket sounds like a good technique. I guess you just need to buy the right size oil filter socket for each side since the the driver and passenger side seals are different diameters. There's always more than one way to accomplish something. This is especially true with press work. Guys come up with all kinds of ingenious ways to get things done. Thanks for sharing this technique and we're glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!
Yeah, I only had issues with passengers side, had plenty of pieces of pipe and sockets for drivers side. Peace!
Thanks for the important information on installing those seals. No one explained that like you did.
Hey Matt, there is a great seal insertion tool made by the Wits' End company. We feature it in this video and provide a link to it in the video description. ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html It makes installing the seal very, very easy. I love it! I wish I have it when making this video.
I know! He did a FANTASTIC job on this video!
Thank you so much, this video saved my life. Had a leaking passenger differential oil seal on an FJ Cruiser, have the right amount driven in, no more leaking. Turns out I had accidentally installed it backwards.
You're very welcome. We're happy to know our video helped you out. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you for your awesome videos! They are so helpful! I couldn't have done this job, and most other jobs, without your help. You provide accurate information and instil confidence that I too can do such jobs. Thank you!!!
I finally got around to replacing my leaking CV shafts and oil seals. That right side (driver's side for me) oil seal wasn't easy, eh! The first time it wasn't straight, and leaked. New oil seal again. The second time I knocked it in too far, and it leaked. New oil seal again. Third time I think I've got it, nothing is leaking after 200km of sand and 400km of highway.
Timmy. I think I may have set off a little debate, too..... sorry about that. I wish I lived closer so I could buy you a beer (or a slab) to apologise properly. Now I've done it, you couldn't get it in the wrong way, and even if you did, it would leak instantly.
1997 Hilux Surf KZN185W SSRX 3.0TD: Purchased in Japan and brought it back to Australia with me.
Hey MIkey, you're very welcome. It's nice to hear our videos have helped you out a lot. It's especially cool to hear our videos have given you the confidence to do jobs that you might have otherwise not tackled without having our videos to follow. We appreciate you taking the time to comment and share your success stories with us. Happy Wrenching!
After seeing all the metal shrapnel that came out of the pan, you guys put new seals in and ran this? OMG!! Guess this will be on Craigslist again very soon.
jim davidson Hey Jim, it's not "You Guys", it's Eric who owns the vehicle. The last time I talked with him, everything is fine with his rig. Would I personally run a differential after seeing all those metal chunks come out? No, I wouldn't. I'd get it sent out and rebuilt and maybe have an ARB locker installed at the same time.
sometime your little short on money and you just got to ride it the way it is
I just tried this. I was having trouble getting the jaws to tighten/widen inside because that round lock nut thing you are using there was just barely able to get on the outside of the back of the jaws to tighten it. I found once I had some of the rubber removed from the seal to give more room I was able to widen and tighten that nut more to widen the jaws inside. Thanks for the video. Finally just got mine out.
Nice! Thanks for sharing your experience - we hope people like you sharing their technique will help others in the future that read through the comments so thanks for stopping by and commenting.
- Sean
Great video, the part numbers for the seal were the same as the seals for my 2005 Tundra TRD SR5 so I used your technique of "5.5mm" and it worked like a charm. I had previously installed a new seal all the way into the tube and it was leaking by really bad, but your info saved the job. It's too bad the Tundra FSM did not reveal that little tidbit of information. Thanks Bro!
Thanks for taking the time to check back here & comment. It's comments like these that maintain the momentum & desire to create more content for the masses. We referenced the original seal depth as well to be certain of the correct depth. So don't forget to measure where the failed seal was seated before removing it.
Thank you, great Instructor, very specific , its what DIY's need the most, Thanks again
You're very welcome David and thanks for the nice compliment.
Great video, thanks for posting. I would be lost without you guys!
Thanks Scott and you're very welcome. We're hear to help.
Vary nice video! I get to do this soon! Seeing how when I replaced my CV boot, topped my fluid off (one quart) and with in 24 hours it was gone... I really appreciate the video and the options you gave for tools. Thanks man.
You're welcome Andrew. Good luck with the job. If you come up with any questions, just ask. Happy Wrenching!
Finally my turn to do this job! Thanks for the great video like always.
Hey Chase, check the video description under the "Helpful Tools" heading. There's a much better tool for driving in the seals made by the Wit's End company. I show it's use in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html After we shot the video, Wit's End made it even better by creating an extra long handle to marry up to the seal driver plate.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks Tim!!
@@gunsfishand4x4 You're welcome.
Thank you for your videos!! Always helping people in different time and space
You're very welcome. That's the beauty of the internet. We can help people around the world with our videos.
That was amazing to watch thank you
It's better to be safe than sorry when working with Point 5 of a millimeter
Thanks Kevin. There's now a tool made by Wits End that makes the seal insertion fool proof. We use it in this video. ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html We provide links to the Wits End tools in the video description.
You look like Lean Claude Van Damme! Very nice video Timmy! I’m going to do this to my car!
I'll take that as a compliment. Jean-Claude Van Damme is a bad ass. Glad you like the video. Good luck with the repair.
Another solid video Tim. I ended up swapping out the passenger side cv axle only to have the seal start leaking, doh. I knew in my better judgment that I should have replaced the seal but I figured it would be ok. Guess not!
Aaron Phelps Hey Aaron, give it a few days and watch it. It’s not uncommon that you see a little drip of oil after replacing the CV axles because a little residual oil that was displaced when inserting the shaft drips down.
@@TimmyTheToolman Will do. Good to know. I did order both seals from Toyota since I have to swap out the drivers side axle (I'm going to rebuild the passenger side) and just keep the reman unit on the passenger side for now. Gonna do the toytec lift and head out to Moab in a month so I'm trying to get my old T4R up to snuff.
Aaron Phelps let us know how the install goes and how MOAB was!!
Hey Tim. There was a guy who left a comment on one of these CV axle or front diff seal videos of yours who said he had a difficult time removing the CV axle and he had to remove his shock as a result of that. I actually ran into the same problem this morning on my 2000 Tacoma 4x4. I had the Hub completely pulled out of the way with baling wire and also had my floor jack kind of supporting it to relieve the tension of the brake line. The axle was getting hung up between the bottom of the shock and the sway bar link. I tried every which angle to get that thing out of there and could not. I was just getting ready to remove the shock and realized it would probably be easier to disconnect the sway bar links on both sides, swivel the sway bar up, and swivel the end links down. That created plenty of room to pull the old axle out. This was on the passenger side. I will be doing axles and seals on both sides but just wanted to throw this out there for anyone who is running into this issue. Thanks again for these awesome videos!
Thanks for sharing your experience. There's a tool made by the Wit's End company that makes the seal insertion much easier. We feature it in this video. Check it out: ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes sir we chatted about it already lol. Arrived this afternoon. Just waiting on my new seals from Amazon to arrive in the next day or two
@@benzoil0453 Gotcha. I don't remember everyone I chat with online. Good to hear your got the cool installation tool. You're gonna like it.
I just subscribed. Thanks for this video Timmy. I just replace my Output Oil Seal on my 2006 Tacoma PreRunner and used NGLI #2 Grease according to Toyota's manual. Thanks again for this video. Love the content
Welcome to the channel. I'm glad our video helped you out.
nice vid again! that sleeve is so deep and HUGE!
Hey Minh, If you interested in this kit, here's a link: www.ebay.com/itm/262449077356?orderid=&rmvSB=true
I've seen this same kit on Amazon and other sites but this is by far the most affordable price I found.
Thanks for the video. My daughter purchased a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 Extra Cab. The Front Differential Axle Shaft Oil Seals are leaking on both sides but, much more on the right side. It leaks differential fluid after the four wheel drive has been engaged for a brief period. When four wheel drive is not engaged, the leaking stops. I have done my own DIY repairs myself, like replacing brakes pads, radiators, alternators, valve cover gaskets. Replacing the Front Differential Axle Shaft Oil Seals, on my daughter's 1998 Toyota Tacoma, looks like a job for a skilled mechanic and not a job for me.
You could handle this job no problem with the right tools.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks.
@@cgrscott You're welcome.
An easy way to seat the seal is put it in freezer first to shrink it. Then you can begin to seat it with your fingers.
Then, take your old seal, cut the rubber dust ring off, and it will lay over the new seal so you can hit it to drive in new seal. An easy way to drive it in is get a 2 foot or so 2x4 and it will extend far enough out of the wheel well to hit the end of the board with a hammer. Easier than trying to tap it with hammer with lower control arm in the way...
Thanks for sharing your tips Andrew. We actually now have a custom made driver for this made by the company Wits End. absolute-wits-end.com/toyota-4wd-ifs-output-shaft-seal-driver/
@@TimmyTheToolman TW Matic here. Just ordered the wits end driver reccomended from another TW member today. Doing both my seals this weekend. Lucky me has the front diff on the workbench as I just got it back from ecgs with new 4:56 nitro's and a harrop e-locker. Excellant vid as always. Merry Christmas!
@@matic1203cc You'll like that Wits End driver. It works really well. I'm planning on re-gearing soon and also going with a Harrop locker for my front diff. How much did ECGS charge you for the job? Glad you like the video. Merry Christmas back at ya!
@@TimmyTheToolman $2100 and a core. gears, locker and wiring harness. They even spiffied up the diff with fresh paint. I had a buddy drop off a random front diff for my core and he lives a stones throw from ecgs and i'm just south in SC. So I didnt have any shipping charges to get a core there. I want to say shipping the completed diff to me was also free.
@@matic1203cc Thanks for getting back to me with this info. Sounds like a fair price.
Big fan of your channel! I was wondering if you could do a series on lubricating the drive shaft and the chassis/ Thanks again!
Hey Jeff, good to hear you like our channel. We have a 30,000 Miles Service video that covers greasing the driveshafts. On the 3rd Gen 4runners, there's only zerk grease fittings on the front (if you have 4wd) and rear driveshafts. No where else are there grease fittings. ua-cam.com/video/a81i1Cayf_I/v-deo.html
Great viedo thank you I'm about to do my left side today and this viedo makes it look very easy!! Off to toyota for parts now woohooo
We're glad you like the video. Just take your time seating the new seal so you don't end up pressing it in too far. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
thanks for sharing man !! i need to do them tomorrow that's really helpfull !!!
You're welcome. Good luck with the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman thnaks !
@@jsvallee567 No problem.
@@TimmyTheToolman update on the job it went so smooth with all your tips ! now its fixed thanks again for sharing
@@jsvallee567 That's great to hear. Thanks for coming back and letting us know. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
If the seal is to fit at the same level as the outer ridge, you could use a sleeve that, not only, fits the diameter of the seal but whose sleeve walls are thick enough to extend out further to meet with the outer ridge. That way, there would be no way of installing the seal beyond the outer ridge. Also, if your sleeve was shorter in length, you'd have more room for hammering. A sleeve (like what I've suggested, above) could be made by gluing one diameter of PVC pipe inside a wider diameter of PVC pipe. $2?
That's an excellent idea provided you could find the right size PVC pipes. PVC pipes come in definite industry standard diameters so you might not find two that will work perfectly for this application.
Second that, and adaptor to a screwed connection gave me the extra lip on my case. Definitely a budget friendly and soft material valid alternative. Cheers!
@@TimmyTheToolmananother way is to make installation tool on wood lathe using white oak.
@@bobschwarz9184 Yeah, whatever works to get the seal to the proper depth.
@@TimmyTheToolman I just replaced axle seal on a friend's 2012 Jeep liberty on the right front and the slide hammer tool wouldn't grab it good enough to pull it out and of course that seal is recessed about 2" in, so the hand held seal puller wouldn't get it either, so I spent 3 hours digging at it with anything I could find and hammer and chisel, Dremel tool, definitely not a fun time.
Great job Tim!
Thanks!
Thanks Timmy!
Need to do these.
Harbor tool box. Got the same one.
You’re welcome Francois, or should I say Frenchy.
Thanks for the info. Will be doing this job soon.
You're welcome. Good luck with the job.
that is some gnarly rubber on that bike
It's a 1987 Yamaha BW200. It basically has ATV tires. They made them in the mid to late 80's and then stopped making them. Honda made something similar called the Fat Cat. I use it when I do volunteer trail work. I strap a chainsaw on the back rack and ride trails cutting out down trees along the way.
Thank you! Subscribed.
You're welcome and thanks for subscribing.
Tim- OUTSTANDING VIDEO!! You are one of the BEST published, professionally produced videos for Mechanical repairs on UTUBE! I have subscribed and "liked" your video !!
I have a question, regarding the replacement of CV axel on Landcruiser/ LX 470. I just did the passenger side and replaced the oil seal as well ( it was leaking) I got a remanufactured Toyota OEM drive shaft ( I very much dislike the aftermarket cheap crap that's 1/4 the price of OEM products ) When I was installing it, my assistant put a block of wood over the end it, and hammered a few times with a regular claw hammer. It did not go in and the C clip on the diff side of the spline is designed to hold it IN!. I did more research and found a video that used a drift punch or pry bar and place it on the lip of the large circle and hammered it on that small lip with a 2x2 or metal drift punch. THAT WORKED! My question is, did pounding a few times on the end of the CV shaft damage it ?? IT has some linear play in it now,( under the inner side boot) so I am really nervous if it's damaged and working? I reinstalled both Ball joints and torqued to factory specs. I know after I reassemble everything i will know in a second if it's broken. BTW - I have never replaced a CV axel much less on a 4 wheel drive LX.
I'm kind of stuck now and REALLY need a prompt response so I hope you check this site or get a notification daily Look fwd to your reply on what i should check, troubleshoot or what... i should do to complete it today
Thank you Tim
Thank you for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! You didn't do any damage to your CV axle pounding on it with block of wood. I wouldn't worry about it. Good job doing the work yourself. Happy Wrenching!
Sometimes you gotta only put it in a few mm amd leave it pokeing 4 mm. Depends on the play of your cv axel. Gotta push up against the seal hard
@@prestonhanson501 All I know is the seal should be installed flush to that inside lip of the differential or differential tube.
In some cars passenger and driver side oil seals are specifically mentioned
We do specify the different part numbers for both sides since they are different in the video description, however, the technique to install them is the same.
- Sean
Im sure glad to know there are two sizes. I have a 2006 4x4 4runner. Should they also be 2 different sizes? I'll be tackling this job soon. I surappreciate your videos. Thanks!
You are a Boss.
Thanks!
very well done..very helpful.. thanks for posting
Thanks George and we appreciate you taking the time to comment.
You can also use a small adjustable square and lock it to where it needs to be
Hey Robert, maybe explain a bit more of what you're talking about. How exactly are you using this square for this job?
Use the square for the depth adjust if and lock it down use the body for the housing and the rule part for the depth if I am making since just thinking outside the box if you dont have a caliper
@@robertreid4617 Gotcha. Thanks for the explanation.
Timmy I guess better way to explain is set the square depth to what the original seal is before you take it out to get you in ballpark when you put in new seal iui s this a little better explanation
@@robertreid4617 Cool, thanks for sharing this.
Timmy, at the 6-minute mark, how would you go about taking out that bearing. Mine is shot. Thank you so much.
I've never replaced that bearing but here's a video that will show you how to get it done. ua-cam.com/video/Yk-0BulWeHA/v-deo.htmlsi=c8suFvqpiqoPjTFm
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you so much for the fast reply 🙏🏼 We're the ones that just did the head job on our 96 4Runner.
@@disconnect_overland8696 You're welcome.
Any thoughts about putting the new seals in a freezer and warming the diff with a heat gun before install. Similar to installing bearings?
Putting the seals in a freezer isn't necessary. They install with minimal force. The concern with this job is driving in the seals to the proper depth. Check the video description for a link to a special seal driver tool to make the insertion of the seal foolproof.
Hey, you own a Yamaha Big Wheel!!! Kind of a rare machine around these parts!! :-D
I know and they're becoming harder to find. I use it for doing volunteer trail work. Strap a chainsaw on the back and away I go.
oh man... that difficult is put that seal? ... oh well... i was thinking to replace the seal too bc I replacing the cv axle, BUT i will no even touch the seal. hoping when take the cv axle out have no leak.
It's not really that hard. It's just tedious being careful not to driving in the seal too far.
@@TimmyTheToolman but i dont have that tool you used to put back. So by your recommendation its better to replace the seal??? my car is 14 yeas old. LOL
@@r.c.850 If it ain't broke don't fix it. If it's leaking gear oil, replace the seal. If it isn't, I'd leave it alone.
Hello! Good day. Thanks. What would be the worst scenario if not change right away.
The worst case is it leaks and you have to keep an eye on the fluid level in the differential so you don't end up destroying it.
So the leak is okay as long as I add fluid regularly. It doesn’t cause any damage?
Hey Tim excellent video! Im doing mine today. I have a 97 T100 3.4l 4x4 my fam and I ran her silly in Big Bear this last week..snow, much, mud and some gritty rocky paths! She handles super solid. Until I ran her into a 4' water hole and got her jammed up for a bit. Couple folks came down the path and Wenched us out no problem. Then I ended up with a front pass. Diff leak. From what I read, a blocked breather valve? On the front diff...can you do a video or maybe spare a quick tip on unclogging and or preventing another seal blow out? Thanks again Tim! Appreciate your thorough real human perspective!
We probably wouldn't make a video on the topic of a clogged breather because it's pretty basic. You find where the breather is located, pull it off the line and blow through it. If air moves through it, it's good. If air doesn't move through it, you replace it. On 3rd Gen 4runners, the front differential breather is extended onto the inside of the driver side fender in the engine compartment. Maybe Toyota put it in the same place on your T100. If it's not in the same place, get under the rig and take a look where the breather is. It shouldn't be that hard to spot. You're seal could have just worn out too. Seals fail from miles and old age. Glad you like the video and Happy Wrenching.
I just used a seal puller and it ended up bending on me. Took it back and got my money back. I did get the seal out though.
Well, the important thing is you got it done. Good job!
Use a big spanner on the open end put it onto the seal and use a hammer to nock onto the spanner to free the seal i did this without damaging the seal so I can get a new one measured up
I used this about a month ago. I’ve done about 1500 miles and the housing is dry as a desert and the oil is still full. Thank you!
Is your buddy’s front differential okay?
We heard Eric rolled his truck and totaled it not too long after filming some jobs with him. i haven't spoken to him in over 7 years. We were never friends, just acquaintances.
@TimmyTheToolman thanks for replying, Timmy. I really appreciate your content. Love from the UK 🇬🇧 ❤️
@@jonyjonsy You're welcome!
Have you done a vid of replacing that bearing? I'm quite sure mine is shot.
We haven't done one on replacing the passenger side bearing. There is a guy who has though. ua-cam.com/video/Yk-0BulWeHA/v-deo.htmlsi=znPe9FIsfcVmzfR0
is there the needle bearing within this video? if so, what timeStamp
Not in this video, but check out our other video on this topic:
ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank You!
@@efil4kizum You're welcome.
Very good video, where did you get the slide hammer to pull the seals out? That slide hammer can be handy for plenty of different things,
Definitely a good tool to have in your arsenal. Refer to the video description to follow the link for the slide hammer puller.
@Timmy The Toolman. I need to get this job done on my '98 taco, and am debating getting that press/pull sleeve kit. What other jobs on my truck would that set be useful for? I know you've used it to press out the front wheel bearings, but what other stuff could it be used for? I guess I'm looking for some extra incentive to justify purchasing that toolset... :)
I've also used the press sleeve kit for upper control arm bushing replacements, rear control arm bushing replacements, and the rear axle seal job. If you think you're going to buy a press at some point, the press sleeve kit is nice to have. If you don't plan on tackling your own press work, it would probably be a waste of money.
thanks for the informative video, I've never seen a slide hammer attatchment like you have for pulling seals the easy way, The only attatchment I have is the cast piece to pull cv joint fwd axles
away from the transxle, where do I buy one ? when I searched I found pilot bearing/bushing puller
they look something like that but smaller thks
You're welcome. Those jaws are a part of the OTC kit I purchased. We link it in the video description.
Can you secure three pieces of metal on the outside of the pipe with a metal strap at 5.5 millimeters from the end of the pipe so you can just tap it in without worrying too much?
There's a real handy tool the Wit's End company made for driving in the seals. We showcase it in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html
Nice video, and very informative, you've just earned a sub, and if you could it would be great to see a video on how to change that needle bearing. And is that the needle bearing that we are seeing the oil seal go around?
Hey Tyler, I might be helping a guy install a front differential "Clam Shell" equipped with an ARB locker but I don't know if this mod will include replacing any bearings. The oil seal is not really going around any bearing. It's just seated into the ends of the differential housing. There are bearings inside the housing just past the oil seal and that must be what you're talking about.
So, if his bearings are fine, I doubt we'll be replacing them. But, who knows. I might find a local 3rd Gen owner that needs this repair and we'll do it for him and make a video of it.
Thanks for subscribing. We've got lots of good stuff coming.
Hey Tim, Just wanted to say thanks for the chat today and wanted to know if you had any rear pinion seal replacement video's. My pinion seal is leaking at the differential and need to fix it. I would image those 4 Runners would be the same for a lot of Toyota's. I have 3 Toyota's but this one is a 1991 Previa.
Hey Greg, you're welcome. Unfortunately we don't have a video for a pinion seal replacement.
How many oil seals are there front and rear Differential, plus the Transmission itself right?
Don't know how many seals total there are for both diffs and trans. Is this just a question out of curiosity or are you trying to repair something?
@@TimmyTheToolman Well since my 4Runner is leaking everywhere except the engine, thats a question from me to an expert like you.
@@keijimuto Well, I would first degrease everything under your rig as best as you can and then keep a close eye on things. The wind velocity when driving can blow oil backwards and areas that are wet with oil might not actually be a source of an oil leak. Your differentials have seals for both axle shafts and for the companion flange. The transmission has an input and output seal. Those are all the shaft seals that could be showing signs of leaking other than the many gasket seals that seal the differential and transmission parts together.
@@TimmyTheToolman Alright at the moment underneath all look like a oily mess, also the steering pump leaked a lot and will be replaced as well. Thanks for the info.
Timmy The Toolman Hi Timmy Just recently Replaced My Cv axles, Lower Ball Joints, Inner and Outer Tie rod Ends For My 97 Toyota 4Runner Sr5 Just had an alignment. Drives great.. Beyond and behold The driver side axle shaft seal On the differential started leaking.. I have a New seal Ordered and ready for pick-up.. I recently watched this your video. So Im going to attemped to give it a try.. My question Is Prior to removing The cv axle Is it possible to just loosen and remove the 4 bolts attaching Lower balljoint to hub or would it be better to Loosen and Remove the 1 lower Nut and leave ball joint attack to The hub..I guess I'm trying to figure out the Best way to go without messing with anything that could effect the alignment Or is A alignment required reguardless. Thanx
Hey Heather, whether you disconnect the lower balljoint at the lower control arm or disconnect it at the steering knuckle makes no difference. The alignment will not be affected. The only way you'd affect the alignment is if you loosened the cam adjuster bolts on the LCAs and turned the cam adjusters or you loosened the set nuts for the outer tie rods and adjusted them.
I prefer to just take off the castle nut and break the connection at the LCA with a puller and leave the 4 balljoint bolts alone since I loctited them. Good luck with the axle seal repair.
Thanks Timmy I hope all goes well also..Thanks again.
Just take your time driving in the seal and you'll be fine. It's tedious but just keep rechecking the depth as you're driving it in because you don't want to overshoot. If you do, you'll have to get another seal, because the seal gets destroyed pulling it out. If you're off by a little bit, you'll probably be fine. But, if you drive it in way too far, it won't meet up with the CV axle well and it will leak.
Hi Tim.
Really need your advice. I had the same experience with ripped CV boots after suspension lift but I replaced mine with aftermarket ones. I replaced both seals and may have over filled the diff. I now have fluid leaking out. At first there was quite a bit of fluid from both sides but now its just on the passenger side and only when I drive it.
Could it have been from over filling the Diff or should I just replace the seals again? my real concern is, if fluid is leaking out then water can get in.
Your opinion is much appreciated and respected!!
@gbrianmullinax8448 With overfilling the differential, you would usually see it spewing out the breather that is attached to the driver side fender in the engine compartment unless the rubber breather tube became disconnected from the nipple on the top of the differential. Have you checked to see if the breather is working by blowing through it? Have you checked the top of the differential for signs of gear oil leaking out? It could be a breather or breather tube issue and not the seals. I'd rule those possibilities out before replacing the seals again
@@TimmyTheToolman I looked and it appears the breather tube is connected. I don't see any signs of gear oil at the point of connection. The tube transitions from a soft tube to a hard tube about half way down. I'm not sure I can get to the attachment point on top of the Diff. About the only thing I can check for air flow is the cap at the top of the tube and its okay.
Nothing goes as planned, at least for me.
I do truly appreciate all your advice
@@gbrianmullinax8448 I'm assuming you installed the seals to the proper depth. Others have had issues with these seals as well. The only other variable is aftermarket CV axles which might not be made to the proper spec and the shaft the seal interfaces with might be undersized. That's the only other thing I can think of why your seals are leaking.
@@TimmyTheToolman As far as I know I did, but who knows I could have completely messed it up. Ill check the dimensions on the axle shafts to see. If there is a second go round I'm leaving it for the professionals. Not going through that again.
Thanks again.
@@TimmyTheToolmanJust for grins and giggles I measured them. They are within .03mm of each other. I guess I messed up. Either I installed them incorrectly or damaged them when I installed the aftermarket axles.
What about replacing that inner bearing?
ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.htmlsi=R4qWaQc_9SQu5B3h
Everybody is sending me your way but I'm so confused. This video is extremely helpful and follows the FSM to a T, but I have a 97 and my FSM matches my vehicle exactly. The oil seals on the driver side of the differential and the passenger side differential tube are the same seal on my runner. I can't figure out what the part number should be and everything about it is so perplexing
They can't be the same seal. They are two totally different sizes.
Hey Timmy, I just did this job for the first time (thank you!). My passenger side seal went in WAY easier than the driver side, so I unintentionally pounded it just a bit past flush. ***Should I be concerned? It seems there's actually plenty of room behind it, so I imagine a few mm would be fine, but what do you think? I'm already buttoned back up so I'm hoping to NOT have to dissemble LOL. Thanks!
Well, as long as you're not leaking, you're good to go. I think there's some room for adjustment of the position of the seal and it will still seal fine on the CV axle.
Hey Timmy. If you wanted to replace the bearings while you were there would it be as simple as slide hammering the old bearing out and pressing the new one in as you did with the seal? Cheers.
We've replaced the driver side needle bearing before with a special extraction tool made by East Coast Gear Supply so we could install an ECGS bushing to reduce play with the CV shaft in the differential. Here's a link to the video we made for that job: ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html
As for the passenger side tube, we haven't replaced that bearing yet. I looked at my factory service manual and it shows removing the differential tube to get the intermediate shaft #2 out and then using a press to remove the bearing off the shaft and using a press to put it back on. The relevant pages in my 2000 FSM are SA-30, 34 & 35.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply!
Question for Triple T. I just replaced my drivers side bearing and seal a couple weeks back. I made sure the seal it was flush to match the one I took off but must not have done a good enough job as it has a slow seeping leak only when I drive the truck. It is possible I was a little off, lol. I went out and bought a new seal and digital calipers to make sure I get the 5.5. My question is, if I still see leaking at that point, then what?
Hey Steve, maybe give it a little time. What you're seeing might have just been a little residual oil that squeaked out when you install the axle. Have you wiped it up several times and it keeps leaking?
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes I have cleaned it up good a good 4 or 5 times. I took some pictures of it after this last time I cleaned it up and looked under the truck last night and saw the wet look again. I plan on taking another picture of it today after I go get another seal just in case.
@@stever8822 Did you take a good look at the CV axle where the seal rides? Maybe there's a worn spot where the seal is riding. Are these OEM axles or aftermarket? If aftermarket, maybe their machining of that part of the axle was a little off and the diameter is slightly less than OEM and the seal isn't getting a tight fit on the axle.
@@TimmyTheToolman When I was in there I didn't see anything suspicious but it has been a couple weeks now so can't really remember. The CV Axle is is OE, so the only things that were after market was the ECGS Bearing and the seal. The original seal looked to have some sort of metal case with the seal mounted within it but the new one I got from ECGS looked to have the entirety encased in rubber much like yours in this video.
@@stever8822 I guess your only choice is to remove the CV axle, inspect the seal to see if there are any glaring problems with it to get an idea of why it was leaking and then pull it out and try again with a new seal. I hope the second time around is successful for you. Let me know how it turns out.
Hey tim, i purchased the seal #47027 from Amazon and it says position front right. But from your parts list u have it as driver side. Just looking for some clarification before I install. Thanks.
@@wendelsimeon5698 The part numbers in the video description are correct for the sides mentioned.
@@TimmyTheToolman quick question does the drain plug take a crush washer
@wendelsimeon5698 No, it doesn't. It is a copper flat washer.
@@TimmyTheToolman appreciate it. was wondering since mine didn't have anything.
@@wendelsimeon5698 No problem.
Nice video, can you show the link where I can buy the tool for installing the seal, thanks.
absolute-wits-end.com/toyota-4wd-ifs-output-shaft-seal-driver/
Is it ok to replace a metal seal with a rubber one? When I serch for spare parts I only find rubber ones for the front axel. I found metal one for the pinion seal. I need to replace seals both on front and rear.
@@Cr3at1vem1nd You should be able to buy the axle seals. Toyota sells them. I've never heard of an all rubber seal for this application.
Would this information and part info be the same for a 1st gen tacoma 4x4?
Yes, it would.
@@TimmyTheToolman appreciate you and the time you take to make these videos.
@@gholiday52 Our pleasure. We're here to help.
great video.
I'm going to change the bearings on my friends hilux. Inside the seals you changed in the video.
is it a lot of work
Good luck with the job. I'd like to hear what tools you used to remove the bearings and reinstall them.
is the diff still working even with those metal shavings?
Hey Bardia, amazingly it is. I asked Eric if he had ever checked the front differential gear oil. He said no and he's owned the truck for 2 years. Who knows how long that differential was low on gear oil. I asked him if he had been using 4 wheel drive and he said he had. He likes to go snowboarding so I imagine he has been using it when he goes up to the mountains.
This just proves how important it is to check over a used vehicle after you buy it. One of the first things I did when I bought my rig was replace all the fluids in the engine, transmission, transfer, and differentials to start off fresh.
Who knows how long his front differential will last with the damage it sustained by running low on gear oil.
It's incredibly irresponsible for a mechanic to allow that transmission to run. His friend may be lucky but that is supremely the outlier.
Great video but I want to know what the that dirt bike with a three wheeler tires is!!! COOL A*!!!
It's a Yamaha Big Wheel 200. They were made in the 80's.
What is that bearing on the drivers side?Right at the seal you just pulled? I need to replace it.
Watch our ECGS Clamshell Bushing video: ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html. Instead of putting in another needle bearing, consider replacing it with a bushing.
Hey timmy on the passenger side when you pulled the seal out there was a bearing on the other side of it. Could you name that bearing for me please? Thanks man!
I'm at work and I don't have my factory service manual available. I could get back to you in a couple days. If I forget, message me again.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks man. I'll check back in a couple days.
Hey Tim, thanks for the video. The link to the Absolute Wits End tool doesn't work. Do you know if this company is still in business? The link says "store unavailable".
I unfortunately don't know the status of his business. I think he's going through some legal battles. I've tried to contact him, but he hasn't responded back to me.
Did you use the same little spring thing
Sorry Dylan, I don't know what you're referring to.
Do the axles need to be greased where they ride against the new seal?or wiped off and regreased? Or something similar?
It doesn't hurt to add some pre-assembly grease to the seal lip so the first turns the CV axle makes doesn't cause any excessive wear. Once the vehicle starts really moving, gear oil is constantly up against the seal keeping it lubricated.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks
@@tylerkrug7719 You're welcome.
Hey Tim, I have a 98 4Runner and I ordered new front brake dust shields, the old ones are rusted out, the shields are one piece so is there any trick to getting the hub with the lug studs off, I really don’t want to make any mistakes removing the hub to replace the dust shields, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Tim.
You would have to press the hub out of the bearing to replace the dust shields. And, because you pressed the hub out, the bearing gets destroyed. So, you have to install new bearings, associated seals and snap rings to do it properly. The only way you could get around this is by cutting the dust shield in half so you could fit it behind the hub to bolt it to the steering knuckle.
Here's a link to our wheel bearing replacement video: ua-cam.com/video/Dj-2IzO9RFk/v-deo.htmlsi=Md2IHwK_21so7LNj
@ Thank you so very much for helping me out, I’ll have to go with cutting the shields then a little rtv to fill the cut, thanks again Tim.
@@nitroflash6162 You're welcome.
Hi.what oil is that leak from there?is it engine oil?thanks
Gear oil from the front diff. it is NOT engine oil.
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman how to fill this oil ?thank u
@@TimmyTheToolman last time I saw the garage repair my front axle and oil is drained and they did not fill new oil.
@@ccg8895 there are 2 plugs. A fill plug and a drain plug. Watch this video for reference
Front Differential Replacement (3rd Gen 4runner or 1st Gen Tacoma) (Part 2)
ua-cam.com/video/bOOxfDFUFsA/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman many thanks
Why don't they slighty relieve the very back outer edge of those seals ... and alternatively would it make it easier if you would have done so?
I'm not understanding what you're saying. What do you mean by "relieve"?
I have a GS 350AWD. Very similar.
Good to know.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yep, it is pieces of a RWD/4wd toyota truck in a sedan. Shares a transmission with the tundra!
Can you do this job with a oil removal tool that has the hooks? Or is it better to buy this tool?
Sounds From The Underground. You can use a hook style seal puller. The slide hammer puller is a more versatile tool but not absolutely necessary for doing this job.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for quick reply! I'm going to do this to my 99 Eclipse
@@TimmyTheToolman I just realized you showed the tool I just described in your video! Its actually the exact same one I ordered
@@signsofthetimes886 Sounds like you set. Good luck with the job.
If you made your own press tool with a stop on it at 5.5mm, that would make things easier.
I don't need to make it. Wits' End already did. absolute-wits-end.com/toyota-4wd-ifs-output-shaft-seal-driver/ Paired with this extended handle absolute-wits-end.com/extended-handles-for-seal-drive-tools-18/ it makes driving in the seals a breeze.
We used the driver plate in this video ua-cam.com/video/Q-RO52NtP1A/v-deo.html but didn't have the extended reach handle yet. I did get to use the full combo helping a friend install seals and it was super easy compared to my first experience with this job.
Nice. Though, pretty expensive for something so easily made on a lathe in 15 min . Either way, it seems better than what you had at the time of this video!
@@elliiothart18 Having a lathe would be nice but that's not something I own. The Wits End Tool is nice.
@@TimmyTheToolman understood, maybe others that do will benefit from my idea.
@@elliiothart18 Yeah, if people have the tooling and the know-how, definitely make their own tools.
Would this work same way for a 86 4runner
It would be very similar. Just pay attention to the depth the original seal was installed to and replicate it.
mine leaking too but the cv axle play and move so do i need to replace the cv axle as well?
There's some play at the connection of the CV axle to the differential. Sometimes gross play can be experienced at the driver side connection because there's a needle bearing that wears out. A common fix is to install an East Coast Gear Supply bushing in place of the needle bearing. We have a video for that job. ua-cam.com/video/sXIfHArtvF8/v-deo.html
Thank you for everything Tim, the Google Doc Master tool list is just the 1st page (outline). There is nothing else after that. Do you have another link for it?
Amazon told us we couldn't have that master tool list because it somehow violated their rules of being an Amazon Associate member so I had to take it down.
Do you have a link for the Toyota repair manual you use?
palaciosivan100 I own the physical books. You could find a set on EBay for sale. If you’re looking for an online version, you’ll need to do a Google search for it.
Hello timmy! What happens if I had already change the seals the proper way, and toyota original seal, but the passenger side still leaking diff fluid?? What would be the next step!
Mayron Hernandez Are you sure the oil seal is at the proper depth and that the CV axle is fully seated into the differential?
Good video & information can you make video on a first generation toyota highlander rear axle seal there none on UA-cam I think it would be a great video! Thanks cheer!
We for the most part work on 4x4 Toyota SUVs and Trucks, but there have been exceptions. Would we work on a Highlander one day? Maybe we would.
What type of oil does it contain?
We put 75w-90 into this vehicle, but refer to your vehicles manual to understand what weight gear oil you should use.
- Sean
What about the bearings? Can i change them from there or open up the diff?
What bearing are you talking about? On the driver side of the differential, you can replace a needle bearing the CV shaft rides on without opening up the differential. The bearing that is visible on the passenger side requires you to pull the tube that attaches to the differential. As for the bearings inside the main differential, you'd have to pull the differential and tear it apart to replace those bearings.
There is a loose when I grab the passenger's side flange that goes in the diff..
1992 4runner ..ADD
I'm guessing Eric didn't have a diff drop put on?
What are your thoughts on them? It seems like some people like them and others don't for potential bigger problems down the road. Another great video!
Hey Jesse, Eric does have a differential drop, but from what I understand, you can only drop the differential 1 inch. That still leaves a 2" difference with a 3" lift in the front. So, even with a diff drop installed, you could still have CV axle boot ribs that are rubbing together. The fix is to stretch the boot out a little farther so the ribs won't touch each other due to the steeper angle the CV axles now have. We show one way to do a boot stretch mod in our CV Axle Reboot video: ua-cam.com/video/vcCT4UgFUTw/v-deo.html
I don't know what potential problems you could have with the differential drop other than you need spacers to put your front skid plate back on right. If I put a lift on my truck, I'd use a diff drop to improve the CV angle.
When Eric comes over my place for some more work, I'm going to try another variation of the boot stretch mod that you can do without removing the CV Axle.
Timmy The Toolman I just watched your CV reboot video. Once my OME lift is installed I'll keep an eye on those 18 year old boots.
Once the weather warms up I may just reboot them in case they do split and wear down the internals. Thanks again!
No problem Jesse. Definitely keep an eye on those inner CV boots after you lift it. They are known to tear right near the small clamp on the inner boot. The new angle is too much for the old boot to take and they rip. You want to catch it quick so you can save your OEM axles and be able to reboot them.
Hey Jesse, I recently worked on Eric's truck again and I noticed his inner CV boot ribs are not rubbing but the outer boot ribs are definitely rubbing. I suspect he'll have a premature failure of the outer boots because of it. The boot materials are very different though. The inner boot is a rubber compound while the outer is a plastic compound. I'm guessing the inner boot is rubber because that joint can slide in and out and thus a more pliable material is needed. The outer joint just turns and doesn't have to elongate so a stiff plastic works fine. I've personally seen more inner boot failures so I'm wondering if the outer plastic boot is a little more durable than the inner rubber boot. I guess time will tell.
So, I think the differential drop helped keep the inner boot ribs from rubbing by lessening the angle.
Well my inner boot on the drivers side gave up the ghost. Small amount of tan coloured grease...
Also my passenger side front diff seal is leaking gear oil slowly. Might as well bite the bullet, reboot both sides and change that seal while I'm there! These videos will be a huge asset! Thanks Tim and Sean!
Timmy, do you have anything on replacing the front wheel bearings? I read somewhere that someone had done theirs and when they pressed everything back in the tone ring and retainer were spinning independently of the wheel. I pressed my bearings in today and I noticed the same thing happening, you can turn the tone ring along with the retainer and the wheel wasn't moving, seems pretty strange. It looks like pressing in bearings on a 4runner is a science.
Dude, this is weird because I was just pressing front wheel bearings yesterday but it was for a guys project for putting manual hubs from a Tacoma on his 3rd Gen 4runner. I unfortunately don't have experience with the 3rd Gen hubs yet.
You lost me on the tone ring but I looked it up and it's synonymous with the ABS sensor rotor. Next to the ABS sensor rotor is a bearing spacer (at least that is what the FSM calls it), is that what you are calling the retainer?
When I did a CV axle reboots and replacements, I had noticed something in the back of the hub that was moving freely. It must have been the ABS rotor and/or retainer. Sean has a set of knuckles we pulled off a wrecked 4runner at a local Pick and Pull. I'm stuck at work for the next couple days but maybe I can have him take a look at the knuckles and take some pics for me and tell me what's actually able to move on the backside of the hub.
I asked Sean and he doesn't have his spare knuckles with him. They're at a relative's house and he won't be there until Wednesday.
Timmy, appreciate the response. I was desperately searching all over the web to find the thread that referenced the speed sensor and the bearing spacer. I called those parts by other names since I didn't know the correct term for it. I found the thread and people were confused about the same issue, then someone said that the speed sensor and spacer does indeed move freely until you tighten the CV into the knuckle and it stops moving. Looks like I wasn't going crazy.
www.justanswer.com/toyota/849ke-toyota-tundra-sr5-just-pressed-front-wheel-bearing.html
Cool, glad you got your answer and I learned something from you about our hubs. Now I know what was moving when I put my finger in there. I remember thinking, is that the bearing? Thanks!
Good job man. I want to ask you something. Can this leak damage clutch as well(i know that it can damage transmition and differential as they are in the same housing. But i dont know if clutch will be affected by this leak). Thank you!!
A leak from these seals will only affect the front differential. It would not affect the transmission or clutch.
@@TimmyTheToolman Okay, i thought it affects transmition because in the video tou said that there is no gear oil cause of this leak.
Yeah, the gear oil was practical all gone from his front differential which would affect the gears inside the front differential but nothing else. The lack of oil in the front differential would not affect any other components.
@@TimmyTheToolman Okay, i misunderstanded waht you said. Thank you for the answer!!
@@tolis5631 You're welcome.
I need to do both sides on my 95 Tacoma 4x4. My guy is charging me $250 in labor, is that fair? Thank you
I'd say that's a pretty fair price. It'a decent amount of labor to pull the CV axles, pull the seals, accurately drive the seals in and get it all back together.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you Sir. I figured since one side is leaking, why not do the other too. My 95.5 has 215K
@@raydonovan7988 You're welcome.
I did this on my 98 4runner and it's still leaking out of the passenger side. Any ideas why?
It could be you drove the seal in too far, or there's an issue with the sealing surface of the CV axle itself. Are you running OEM or aftermarket CVs?
@@TimmyTheToolman They're aftermarket high travel NAPA CVs because my truck has 3" lift and 2"body lift. I'll try pulling the seal out and also checking how it fits in the CV axle. I can't belive how quick you responded!
@@GreyWolfLodge We do our best to answer people's questions and acknowledge comments as quick as possible. It's one of the nice things we try to do for people. We appreciate the comments and like answering people's questions to the best of our ability.
@@TimmyTheToolman I just replaced to seal again and checked the sealing surface of the CV axle and it seems fine but it's still leaking. Do you have any other ideas of what I can look at?
@GreyWolfLodge When you removed the seal, was there any sign of damage to the housing where the seal seats? I'm just wondering if gear oil is getting past the seal to shaft connection or is it getting past the seal to housing connection?
Thanks Timmy! do you know the diameter of the sleeve you used to drive the drivers side seal in?
Hey James, I don't know the exact diameter of the seal driver we used. We just chose a driver that matched up best with the diameter of the bushing from the OTC kit I own. A link to the kit I used is in the video description.
I used two different diameter exhaust connections from the auto store. Diameters were 2-3/4" for the passenger side, and 2-1/2" for the driver side. I would recommend trying to find a 2-7/8" diameter sleeve for the passenger side, the above will work as I couldn't find that diameter at the auto store.
@@elkcrzdfrk197 good info. How did you go about hammering the seals in using the exhaust connectors?
Hello Timmy! Where did you get the factory service manual please?
goofyindavidual I bought mine from an EBay seller. Just do a Google search and you'll find sets for your particular year for sale.
I managed to find a PDF online for about about 4/5 £/$. Really appreciate your work and attention to detail mate. Thank you from the UK! G
You're welcome my British 3rd Gen Mate. I'm half English by the way. Last name Watson. Glad you're liking our videos. Happy Wrenching!
This calls for a big impact gun.
yes sir! we link to the dewalt guns we use.