I have 4 different types of musk that I use when making perfume: galaxolide, exaltolide, animalis and shangralide. Galaxolide, because it has little to no smell to it, is my immediate go-to musk scent and I feel could be used in any genre of scent. The second most common one I use is exaltolide but I try not to use very much when trying to make a light floral or citrus scent. Only because I want the scent to be as bright and uplifting as possible and not have a muskiness weigh it down. Animalis is essentially synthetic Siberian deer musk and having smelled both this and real deer musk, it is a dead on match. I tend to save this one exclusively for oriental scents such as ones with oud or heavy woods or resinous bases. The last one, shangralide, is certainly the most difficult to use. It is very animalic, almost like tobacco and castoreum mixed together. This one, just like with animalis, I only use in oriental scents but much more heavily diluted.
Which Musks you think has the most transparent soapy aspect to it? I am working on an white musk accord that should smell white transparent soapy (almost like a creamy white blossom). I tried bvlgari magnifyng musk which has an cold white soap smell at the drydown. The opening isnt as good.
Very good! I recently decided to create my own perfumes. Since then, I have purchased just over 50 aroma chemicals. 6 are from the musk family. They are: Ketone, Ethylene, Exaltolide, Galaxolide, Habanolide and Tonalide(fantastic! my favorite) Thanks for the vídeos! You help me a lot!
Thanks for this video. I'm a great lover of base notes and musk and oriental - style perfumes. The section where you talked about blending musks was especially useful. I'm glad you talked about tonquitone since I love it. I've had a 0.1% solution on a scent strip I can smell two weeks later. Basically it's an attempt to recreate the scent of aged musk deer musk (which was called musk tonquin, hence the name). I don't find it terribly animalic, personally, though that's definitely there. It seems sweet, warm, powdery, and ambery/resinous with an undercurrent of sharp animal. Definitely nothing like civet absolute which smacks you in the face with the urine/animalic scent then opens up to more of the soft, warm, amber qualities that tonquitone has. I've tried civet in a few experiments but to get the urine smell down sufficiently, I had to dilute it down to something like 0.002% of the concentrate. You didn't mention it, so I wanted to ask your impression of musk ketone if you've used it. I know Chanel used it extensively back in the day, and it has pretty strong musk characteristics, but it's odor impact is so low I couldn't smell more than a slight "something" at 10% on a strip 15 minutes after dipping. It didn't really show up until a day later and has lasted for a month so far and you have to be close to smell it. Given the fact it takes such a long time to really smell it at all, how is it useful in perfumery, or how would you use it in a musk blend? Is it basically used as a functional musk?
Musks have always been Must in perfumery. Other than all the must have musks you discussed I love and regularly use Helevetolide and Habanolide. I have not tried Auratouch (Firmenich) but I whip-up my own version of Auratouch using Helevetolide+Romandolide+Habanolide+Exaltolide+Muscenone and I love it
When I first smelled galaxolide I realised it was the primary smell of a ‘green apple’ shampoo my aunt used to have when I was a 7-8yr old kid - I used to hang out with my cousins during the summer school break and LOOOOOVE her shampoo, which was nicer than the stuff my mum used to buy. I lathered it on in ample amounts, probably to my aunts dismay. Love galaxolide, for me it has a very clear noticeable scent of its own.
@@bkscents7050 I find the galaxolide scent quite strong by itself, and pleasant, actually! I am based in the UK and have just ordered a musk pack from Pell Wall with 20 different types of musks including Applelide and Edenolide for that summer pear and linden blossom scent that I am going to attempt to create (my first ever composition) 😊
There's so many to choose from! I'm for sure getting Ambrettolide next order. I put it off because of its price. Probably Ethylene Brassilate too and then whichever others I gravitate towards.
because Ambrettolide is a strong musk, you could get by with getting a small amount of it and taking a tiny portion of that and pre-diluting it down to 10% to use in your trail tinker blends. If sometimes the price is an issue, ill end up buying the smaller 10-15ml bottles and just taking a small portion of that and prediluting it to make it last
Very good and useful video. Those like us who love PERFUMES and try to make it, are interested in watching more videos like this. We are from India - Kerala
My experience with musk is that there are many fragrances that have a specific kind of musk that tends to overpower the entire fragrance so that I can barely smell anything else, and I really don't like it... It has made me basically avoid any fragrance that has musk as a listed note. Examples: Narciso Rodriguez - For Him MontBlanc - Explorer Profumum Roma - Eccelso Olympic Orchids - Peace Carner Barcelona - Cuirs (and also Drakon) But then there are also other fragrances that apparently contain musk where I can't really notice it at all. I'm very curious if these fragrances where the musk really stands out and dominates use a specific kind of musk. I'm sure you would immediately be able to pick up which sort of musk I'm referring to if you smelled any of these fragrances.
I havent actually smelled any of these except for Mont Blanc Explorer, which is really didnt like at all. But musks that are hard to smell are usually the cleaner 'white musks" like Galaxolide, Ethelene brassylate, etc...but then there are a hand full of strong odorous musks that can be smelled and still be on the cleaner white-side like habanolide, helvetolide, Applide, etc.... And then there are the "skanky animalic musks" like Shangralide, Tonquitone that not only can easily be smelled, but they usually are not pleasant at high amounts.
What I like to do is blend naturals in with synthetic generally about 20% natural to a synthetic like for an example for an oriental woody fragrance I made last night, the objective was to keep it insency so I went 2 of Tonkin Deer Musk quite expensive by the way to 8 galaxolide. I won't do that all the time but in this case scenario it's an insensy oriental. The actual insence accord I went with was nag champa which works real well so 4 Dragons Blood to 4 nag champa 2 of cade oil diluted at 20% hopefully ifra will let that one slide, mind you it's just a demo prototype at this stage. And with agarwood I actually went full steam ahead with 100% Indonesian agarwood, what I probably should have done is gone 40% natural agarwood to 60% black Agarwood synthetic. What I found is when you strike a good balance between synthetic and natural you'll get a product that smells quite professional yet quite genuine with good performance, obviously it depends on what's being created you know like sometimes you just have to stick to synthetic and fruity notes can get annoying in that regard, I mainly just stick to chypre and oriental fragrances myself since that's what I like. Getting back to what I was ranting on about it's a bit like years ago when I was trying all these different perfumes then I finally discovered COMME des GARCONS and it was like wow what ever these guys are doing it works like it really stands apart from the rest, that nice balance between natural and synthetic. Bit like comparing a genuine wood fire oven cooked pizza by a top artisan Italian chef to Dominoes or your local pizza shop junk. But yeah that's my little rant keep up the good work, great job on the videos by the way.
Great video! I love tonquitone. Used it in a simple musk blend and wow! In the heat and sweat, it smells really good. Same with animals. Then I got Aurelione.....drool! like skin and just so beautiful. I use tonalid, romandolide and ethylene brassylate as workhorse musks and exaltolide, velvione and ambrettolide hc to elevate. I love Galaxolide but I'm torn because it's not biodegradable but I love it.
I have yet to use tonqitone in a formula. It's such a old musk for me. Very realistic and "pee" smelling. I really do need to just go for it and use it. It's a shame to have it sitting on my shelf and not use it
@@bkscents7050 Just a little heads up, as wonderful as it was in my musk blend it was less than 0.1% of the formula and still quite strong, so you might want to use a bit less, but it was still beautiful nonetheless ❤
@@bkscents7050 it was less than 1 part per thousand in the overall formula, actually 0.07 I rounded up to the nearest percentage. Its a little growly, but I like it. Ones I would love to work with are habanolide and celestolide.
You are so knowledge, and you express it in a way that I understand. You are actually one of my mentors. Niche perfumer here, not master, I had to hire one. You are no nonsense, and I want to be like you. Warmest Regards, MJ 😊
Love this because I love musk. Can you do something explaining "powdery" profiles? I really like things like "Cloud" and others that are powdery without being dated BTW, I just started making my own scents for gifting to family. Before I saw any videos or tutorials (I lean heavily on yours), I was just dumping cetalox crystals and ambroxan into perfumers' alcohol. I'd sometimes spray in existing perfumes. I had no idea what I was doing and still need to get a scale. However, I had a blast and most of the scents turned out really nicely! LOL
For anything powdery, I would lean on musks, ionones, rose materials and a touch of muguet materials. But there are so many things that can give the effect of soft or powdery...this is a lot to cover.
I love exaltolide total, Egyptian musk, timbersilk, hedione, I use sandela as a musk for sweet woody fragrances, wife says cetalox makes her want to jump my bones so I use it in, fresh gym type scents where the fragrance becomes your own mixed with body chemistry. Oh yeah ambrettolide is great with cumin for me. How could I forget cashmeran musk... Great in combo with geranium and ginger dominated compositions
Chris from Pell Wall says he also likes to use numerous musks at once because it makes it so the consumers will be almost guaranteed to smell the musk in the perfume. Basically it makes it unlikely someone would be anosmic to all the musks vs using only one musk that someone might be anosmic to.
Thank you so much for sharing and describing the smells! But you were torturing me ha ha! I want all of the smells right in front of me right now!😆. This is very cool. I’ve had a love for essential oils and perfumes for years!
Great video! My favourite musks are habanolide for a masculine clean vibe and muscenone for a sensual effect. Good in combination too. I sometimes to overdose muscenone at maybe 2 to 2.5%. Filth! Have you used Velvione or the Animalis base? If so I'd be interested to know what you think.
@@bkscents7050 I definitely will! I adore musk heavy frags, and enjoy learning the individual notes. Today when I smelled Haitian Vetiver I'm like "Yup, that's one of main notes I smell in Encre Noire"... Also, I received Brazilian Rosewood EO the other day, its Divine. Today I get pure Linalool and I'm like "hmmmm this smells like less complex Brazilian Rosewood EO". Googled it, and sure enough it contains 70-90% natural Linalool. This is the funnest match game ever!
@@originalsupermommy If you like Encre Noir, check out Vetiveryl acetate too....its a tamer refined vetiver material and pairs nicely with Haiti vertiver EO.
@@bkscents7050 so far I have about 65 raw materials and I think my favorite is Labdanum. When I smelled it I was like "YES! This is just like TF Amber Absolute!" ... I did watch Christophe Laudamiel on Brooklyn Fragrance Lover's channel talking about his creation of the frag and bought the raw ingredient because it's one he talked about using. In my materials so far I got most of the ones you recommended in your beginner tips vid.
@@originalsupermommy That video was stellar! Also try a touch of Ambrain...which is another form of labdanum. Almost the same...yet slight different. TF Amber Absolute has a very very small amount of it in there (like 15 /1,000 if i recall correctly)
Haha cool reindeer, I tell you what does work well with musky woody floral perfumes is the allergen Alpha Isomethyl-Ionone especially with ebanol you get some exotic sillage then. Generally I'll add about 2% works quite well with all musks really but mainly galaxolide and white Musk.
Thank you soo much for this video. All of your videos are very useful. I'm waiting to purchase a scale it's the last thing I need. I'm not in a hurry because I have alot of smelling to do. Thanks again.🙂
Hi BK Scents, I was wondering if there's a good perfumery training kit you can recommend. Right now I'm looking at all kinds of kits, and don't really know which one to choose. BTW, I'm in Europe. Thanks in advance, and your videos are excellent and to-the-point. Keep up the good work.
pellwall.com/?s=Kit&post_type=product PellWall has a ton of kits. It's hard to recommend on to you without knowing what your budget is and about how many different materials you want to buy, and how many you already currently own.
@@bkscents7050 Here's a fast rundown: I'm a true newbie at perfumery, but am eager to learn. I'm planning on making a serious business out of this, hopefully, as I am a 40 years old male with artistic background and cash capital to spare, desperately wanting to change careers! Now, while PellWall is more or less considerable for supplies, here's what I was thinking: What if I 1.) keep watching all your videos and take lecture notes, 2.) keep reading articles and books on perfumery, 3.) purchase those training kits they sell at Perfumers Apprentice to get my feet wet, then 4.) start experimenting with PellWall's 100 Essential Aroma Chemicals? Would all this expand my knowledge to a somewhat intermediate level?
It's gonna take a lot of time and experimenting. The only way to truly learn is to dive in and just put in the work, experimenting and just tinkering and trials. You'll learn down the road that you'll end up buying more and more materials, for once you get to a point of "I want to make an xxxxx note/accord", you'll run to the online store to get the necessary materials.....and it's a continuous circle of buying, lol. You'll find yourself buying new materials almost every week, or every other week once you get going. But yes, the perfumersapprentice starter kit they sell is actually quite good and well rounded chosen materials that's a good starting point.
@@bkscents7050 So you just basically sanctioned my little strategy hehe! I’m going to order those kits right away. And also; you’re helping people from all different walks of life with these classes. Please carry on like this!
Thank you sir, for another informative class in perfumery. Would there be enough information to have a video based on incense & incense accords used in perfumery?
I never really focused on an incense accord before. If i wanted that style of 'note', id probably just use mostly Olibanum, and possibly a touch of guaiacol, birch tar for smoke...and then an extra touch of something woody. But incense can be all over the place because not all incense smells the same, because of what type of incense stick/flavor it is.....
"Incense" is a very broad term. I'm working on an Nag Champa accord which includes Patchouli (4pts Clearwood), Sandalwood (2pts Ebanol, 2pts Javanol) and Musk (an accord that's largely based in Galaxolide and Habanolide). It's not perfect but it's a start. Most other incense accords are based in Frankincense or Myrrh with Amber or Labdanum. But it really depends on the type of incense scent you are trying to make.
Great Video Bk. It's amazing how different our noses are because I can pick up Galaxolide but my nose cannot detect Ethylene B. for the life of me. I have a question regarding dilutions for your blends; while I do understand it's always good to dilute materials down to 10% for smelling and better understanding of them, do you also dilute musks such as Galaxolide, Helvetolide, Ethylene B or even ISO e Super to use in your blends? thx
For small batch trials blends....yes I used everything diluted. My musk's are at 10% (some are even less like 5 or 1% depending on what musk it is)....but my iso E super and Hedione I use at 50%. But once a formula is done and finalized, I'll make large batch concentrates with all neat (undiluted) materials.
Great info! I have a question, so I am new to perfumery/scent blending and would like to know if any of you guys can tell me how to give a scent a clean, musky dark finish, but smooth at the same time? Kind of like what you smell in men's beard care products?? I appreciate y'all
BK, Awesome on the musk mixes. If you haven't already done an aquatic scent fregrance video would you post one. If you have done a video on aquatic scent how can it be found? So much good scent you spread...thanks.
Aquatics is easy....theres so many different materials to choose from, Calone, Cascalone, Melanol, Scentenal, Aquamate, Floralozone, Helional, etc....you just have to find the one that suits the perfume theme the best because they all have different facets to them.
Hi BK, I know that this is an old video but I was wondering if there was a way to tone down or neutralize musk in fragrances you’ve purchased? There is a specific type of musk that is in Xerjoff Erba Pura and Tiziana Terenzi Kirke that smells so strong that it over powers my senses and it just doesn’t smell good to me at all. And there is a perfume I recently purchased that is a flanker to a scent that uses that same musk but it doesn’t have musk listed, however I can smell that musk in the dry down of this one. I really want to keep it because it has a beautiful opening and mid but the dry down makes me so sad because all that’s left is that musk that I really dislike. Is there anything I can do to save it?
Man i also used to think i hated musks until i started seeing them in all of my favorite perfumes . Usually white musks and it doesnt smell bad so that changed my view*
Thank you so much sir, your adorable knowledge, I have a query in the beginning of vedio as you said we use benzoin, labdanum,sandal as a fixative and also we use musk as fixative then my query is that if I use benzoin or labdanum as a fixative in compound then can I use musk in that compound.
Sir. Thanks lots for giving knowledge about musk's use in perfumes.but sir you have not mentioned nitro musk like musk ambrit .musk zylon. Musk ketones wildly use in industrial perfumes. Thanks lots sir.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Can you please tell something about cashmeran? Is that also a musk?i love the odour of cashmeran and always wanted to use it but hardly use it. Can you tell a formula for a masculine perfume base note with woody warm sensual and deep musky base? I will be grateful if you can help me out with this
Bro can we just use dpg, perfumers alcohol & essential oils? Is it better to use fixatives like galaxolite or tonalide, etc to get longevity or only dpg will do the trick? Edit: Also which is better galaxolite & tonalide, mass pleasing?
The Ethylene Brassylate I have does have a rather "strong" smell to it. Smells a bit flowery/floral and sweet to me. It smells rather nice and I do love to use it! But if you think it smells like Galaxolide, does that mean the Ethylene Brassylate I have is "off"?
No, yours isn't off. That's exactly what it smells like. It's a basic clean white musk (like Galaxolide), but it does have a more pronounced odor with a slightly fruity sweet background
It's a very grateful video. I have a question. Don't you use musk ketone? It's a different story from the musk theme, but can you tell me what the oil that says "terpeneless" is different from what it doesn't? (lemon oil cold pressed / lemon oil terpeneless)
I don’t use musk keytone due to it IFRA restrictions, but a good alternative is Muscenone. “Terpenless” usually means they removed some of the limonene content, so the material is smoother and less spikey
It is more about ratios. For example you could use for 20% ... 2g, 10% ...1g. But in this case, it would be neat, and as a base. They would go towards a concentrate and other notes like heart notes and tops would also be added to the concentrate, then a diluent like perfumers alcohol would be added to the concentrate depending on the strength or type of fragrance you require for e.g perfume is roughly 20% concentrate to 80% perfumers alcohol. Diluting your ingredients is due to either a) the ingredients is very resinous or solid, b) is very strong smelling so you need very little amounts...like fractions of a gram. Or c) to save money and ingredients when experimenting.
Hey now, I LOVE a cannabis strain called Dogshit. And yes, it smells like dogshit, but in flower form it's just so beautiful lol. SO syvette? I was curious to try and isolate the particular terpenes that create that smell so I could recreate it
Lol....yes....if it smells like shit, you would want to try using Civet. Civet smells fecal and pretty raunchy....but in low doses it created a nice warmth and sultry vibe
I picked up Tonalide today (crystals from Perfumer's Apprentice) and dissolved 10% in PA....but similar to Ambrettolide I can't smell a thing. Nada, nothing! Very frustrating! Is this common?
Yes, it's very common that certain musks are hard to smell or detect. The more you play with them...the more your nose becomes attuned and can start to smell it. I was this same way with many musks at first.
Thank you for the video! I like your content but in my opinion, the music behind destroys the concentration. Maybe is just me, but you could ask your fans if they prefer content with music or without 😃.
I agree. The music was too loud at certain points...and the choice of music was probably not appropriate for this type of video. I'm going to make adjustments going forward :)
Thank you so much for this insight! I have a question for you, I'm new to the fragrance making world and im making a new fragrance and i really want to have a musk note, some of the notes in my fragrance includes; honey, amber, berries, star anise, cashmeran, rosemary oil. Which musk do you think would be best suited for this fragrance? I am on a bit of a budget btw. Thank you very much.
Benzoyl benzoate can work, so can DPG. But the trick is to dilute it down low. Because this is an IFRA restricted material, I keep mine diluted down to 5%
Not really. To my nose its a VERY scented musk. It smells pretty "dark fruity" sweet and very round smelling, and it doesnt have much of a animalic smell either. Its one of those easier to smell musks, so i wouldnt really consider it a "white" musk, which to most people they have a hard time smelling because its so clean and transparent.
Oh man. I got covid and lost my smell for a month. After recovery galaxolide smells so STRONG i can't smell anything else if it has galaxolide. Even my shampoo (head and shoulder) has galaxolide, and all I smell is galaxolide. Its freaking annoying.
Has your smell improved? I also lost my smell due to Covid and still recovering. I randomly smell either something chemical or just simply plain bad smells.
@@monikamerenyi3316I experienced kinda the same thing, I used to smell random stuff like iso e super, pomegranates and other random stuff. But never bad smells. I did some nose training and saw immediate improvements. One mistake I made was wearing a perfume (which was musk based) that caused the galaxolide sensitivity. For the past 1 month I had stopped smelling galaxolide. Today reading your comment I tried smelling a perfume that I couldn't smell before and realised my galaxolide sensitivity has lessened.
LOL..musks are essential! I was the same way when i started perfuming, i was afraid to use musks because I dont like "musky" or "musty" smells...but thats not the case at all when you start to sample different types of musks :)
Sure it can....it's simply descriptors. Some things actually smell piercing and sharp.....some softer and comforting and easy on the nose. It's just basic ways to describe something so people get the concept of how it evokes feeling's That would be like going to an art gallery and hearing someone say "this painting makes me feel warm and comforting".....and you then saying "no, it's can't.....that's not possible".
Smells can absolutely have textures. A huge part of the enjoyment you get from food is the smell and not just the scents but their textures. You're telling me you don't smell how thick a heavy whipping cream is compared to skim milk?
I have 4 different types of musk that I use when making perfume: galaxolide, exaltolide, animalis and shangralide. Galaxolide, because it has little to no smell to it, is my immediate go-to musk scent and I feel could be used in any genre of scent. The second most common one I use is exaltolide but I try not to use very much when trying to make a light floral or citrus scent. Only because I want the scent to be as bright and uplifting as possible and not have a muskiness weigh it down. Animalis is essentially synthetic Siberian deer musk and having smelled both this and real deer musk, it is a dead on match. I tend to save this one exclusively for oriental scents such as ones with oud or heavy woods or resinous bases. The last one, shangralide, is certainly the most difficult to use. It is very animalic, almost like tobacco and castoreum mixed together. This one, just like with animalis, I only use in oriental scents but much more heavily diluted.
Thats a perfect example of using musks creatively! Mix em' up and combine them!
That’s really helpful thank you.
Which Musks you think has the most transparent soapy aspect to it?
I am working on an white musk accord that should smell white transparent soapy (almost like a creamy white blossom).
I tried bvlgari magnifyng musk which has an cold white soap smell at the drydown. The opening isnt as good.
Wonderful
Very good!
I recently decided to create my own perfumes. Since then, I have purchased just over 50 aroma chemicals. 6 are from the musk family. They are: Ketone, Ethylene, Exaltolide, Galaxolide, Habanolide and Tonalide(fantastic! my favorite)
Thanks for the vídeos!
You help me a lot!
Could you tell me where would be a good place to find some good stuff to Blend on my own?
Papa BK blessed us with another lesson.
:)
Yes!!! We really appreciate the knowledge you drop every video
It’s daddy…. Jk lol
Thanks for this video. I'm a great lover of base notes and musk and oriental - style perfumes. The section where you talked about blending musks was especially useful.
I'm glad you talked about tonquitone since I love it. I've had a 0.1% solution on a scent strip I can smell two weeks later. Basically it's an attempt to recreate the scent of aged musk deer musk (which was called musk tonquin, hence the name). I don't find it terribly animalic, personally, though that's definitely there. It seems sweet, warm, powdery, and ambery/resinous with an undercurrent of sharp animal. Definitely nothing like civet absolute which smacks you in the face with the urine/animalic scent then opens up to more of the soft, warm, amber qualities that tonquitone has. I've tried civet in a few experiments but to get the urine smell down sufficiently, I had to dilute it down to something like 0.002% of the concentrate.
You didn't mention it, so I wanted to ask your impression of musk ketone if you've used it. I know Chanel used it extensively back in the day, and it has pretty strong musk characteristics, but it's odor impact is so low I couldn't smell more than a slight "something" at 10% on a strip 15 minutes after dipping. It didn't really show up until a day later and has lasted for a month so far and you have to be close to smell it. Given the fact it takes such a long time to really smell it at all, how is it useful in perfumery, or how would you use it in a musk blend? Is it basically used as a functional musk?
Hello did you manage to get more information on Musk ketone if yes , kindly share .
Musks have always been Must in perfumery. Other than all the must have musks you discussed I love and regularly use Helevetolide and Habanolide. I have not tried Auratouch (Firmenich) but I whip-up my own version of Auratouch using Helevetolide+Romandolide+Habanolide+Exaltolide+Muscenone and I love it
That sounds like a freaking nice musk base!
Galaxolide smells like White Musk from those make your own lotion and perfume shops in the mall back in the 90s. The Body Shop! My mom used to buy it.
Oh wow! Thank you! This is the video I've been waiting for. You've made my week. This is the best channel. Thank you!
Woot! Woot! :)
I like musk. It's a great fixative and since the aroma is subtle, it's extremely versatile.
When I first smelled galaxolide I realised it was the primary smell of a ‘green apple’ shampoo my aunt used to have when I was a 7-8yr old kid - I used to hang out with my cousins during the summer school break and LOOOOOVE her shampoo, which was nicer than the stuff my mum used to buy. I lathered it on in ample amounts, probably to my aunts dismay. Love galaxolide, for me it has a very clear noticeable scent of its own.
I'm surprised you can smell galaxolide. Most people can't. If you like galaxolide, you'll love appleide......which is a fruity galaxolide type
@@bkscents7050 I find the galaxolide scent quite strong by itself, and pleasant, actually! I am based in the UK and have just ordered a musk pack from Pell Wall with 20 different types of musks including Applelide and Edenolide for that summer pear and linden blossom scent that I am going to attempt to create (my first ever composition) 😊
Beginners enthusiam!!
Oh man, your films are so great. Thank you! My sensei haha :)
There's so many to choose from! I'm for sure getting Ambrettolide next order. I put it off because of its price. Probably Ethylene Brassilate too and then whichever others I gravitate towards.
because Ambrettolide is a strong musk, you could get by with getting a small amount of it and taking a tiny portion of that and pre-diluting it down to 10% to use in your trail tinker blends. If sometimes the price is an issue, ill end up buying the smaller 10-15ml bottles and just taking a small portion of that and prediluting it to make it last
Very good and useful video. Those like us who love PERFUMES and try to make it, are interested in watching more videos like this. We are from India - Kerala
My experience with musk is that there are many fragrances that have a specific kind of musk that tends to overpower the entire fragrance so that I can barely smell anything else, and I really don't like it... It has made me basically avoid any fragrance that has musk as a listed note.
Examples:
Narciso Rodriguez - For Him
MontBlanc - Explorer
Profumum Roma - Eccelso
Olympic Orchids - Peace
Carner Barcelona - Cuirs (and also Drakon)
But then there are also other fragrances that apparently contain musk where I can't really notice it at all. I'm very curious if these fragrances where the musk really stands out and dominates use a specific kind of musk. I'm sure you would immediately be able to pick up which sort of musk I'm referring to if you smelled any of these fragrances.
I havent actually smelled any of these except for Mont Blanc Explorer, which is really didnt like at all. But musks that are hard to smell are usually the cleaner 'white musks" like Galaxolide, Ethelene brassylate, etc...but then there are a hand full of strong odorous musks that can be smelled and still be on the cleaner white-side like habanolide, helvetolide, Applide, etc....
And then there are the "skanky animalic musks" like Shangralide, Tonquitone that not only can easily be smelled, but they usually are not pleasant at high amounts.
What I like to do is blend naturals in with synthetic generally about 20% natural to a synthetic like for an example for an oriental woody fragrance I made last night, the objective was to keep it insency so I went 2 of Tonkin Deer Musk quite expensive by the way to 8 galaxolide. I won't do that all the time but in this case scenario it's an insensy oriental. The actual insence accord I went with was nag champa which works real well so 4 Dragons Blood to 4 nag champa 2 of cade oil diluted at 20% hopefully ifra will let that one slide, mind you it's just a demo prototype at this stage. And with agarwood I actually went full steam ahead with 100% Indonesian agarwood, what I probably should have done is gone 40% natural agarwood to 60% black Agarwood synthetic. What I found is when you strike a good balance between synthetic and natural you'll get a product that smells quite professional yet quite genuine with good performance, obviously it depends on what's being created you know like sometimes you just have to stick to synthetic and fruity notes can get annoying in that regard, I mainly just stick to chypre and oriental fragrances myself since that's what I like. Getting back to what I was ranting on about it's a bit like years ago when I was trying all these different perfumes then I finally discovered COMME des GARCONS and it was like wow what ever these guys are doing it works like it really stands apart from the rest, that nice balance between natural and synthetic. Bit like comparing a genuine wood fire oven cooked pizza by a top artisan Italian chef to Dominoes or your local pizza shop junk. But yeah that's my little rant keep up the good work, great job on the videos by the way.
Great video! I love tonquitone. Used it in a simple musk blend and wow! In the heat and sweat, it smells really good. Same with animals.
Then I got Aurelione.....drool! like skin and just so beautiful.
I use tonalid, romandolide and ethylene brassylate as workhorse musks and exaltolide, velvione and ambrettolide hc to elevate.
I love Galaxolide but I'm torn because it's not biodegradable but I love it.
I have yet to use tonqitone in a formula. It's such a old musk for me. Very realistic and "pee" smelling. I really do need to just go for it and use it. It's a shame to have it sitting on my shelf and not use it
@@bkscents7050 Just a little heads up, as wonderful as it was in my musk blend it was less than 0.1% of the formula and still quite strong, so you might want to use a bit less, but it was still beautiful nonetheless ❤
I kinda figured it was potent! I wouldn't go any higher than 2-3 parts per thousand in a full formula with that one for sure
@@bkscents7050 it was less than 1 part per thousand in the overall formula, actually 0.07 I rounded up to the nearest percentage. Its a little growly, but I like it. Ones I would love to work with are habanolide and celestolide.
What an informative video about musks! Thanks so much for your work!!!!!
You are so knowledge, and you express it in a way that I understand. You are actually one of my mentors. Niche perfumer here, not master, I had to hire one. You are no nonsense, and I want to be like you.
Warmest Regards,
MJ 😊
Love this because I love musk. Can you do something explaining "powdery" profiles? I really like things like "Cloud" and others that are powdery without being dated
BTW, I just started making my own scents for gifting to family. Before I saw any videos or tutorials (I lean heavily on yours), I was just dumping cetalox crystals and ambroxan into perfumers' alcohol. I'd sometimes spray in existing perfumes. I had no idea what I was doing and still need to get a scale. However, I had a blast and most of the scents turned out really nicely! LOL
For anything powdery, I would lean on musks, ionones, rose materials and a touch of muguet materials. But there are so many things that can give the effect of soft or powdery...this is a lot to cover.
Thank you for that great introduction to musks 😃
Sir. I really love how to teach about musk details. Thanks for that.
Thanks for great video. Always wait to see every video.
I love exaltolide total, Egyptian musk, timbersilk, hedione, I use sandela as a musk for sweet woody fragrances, wife says cetalox makes her want to jump my bones so I use it in, fresh gym type scents where the fragrance becomes your own mixed with body chemistry. Oh yeah ambrettolide is great with cumin for me. How could I forget cashmeran musk... Great in combo with geranium and ginger dominated compositions
Chris from Pell Wall says he also likes to use numerous musks at once because it makes it so the consumers will be almost guaranteed to smell the musk in the perfume. Basically it makes it unlikely someone would be anosmic to all the musks vs using only one musk that someone might be anosmic to.
Chris is a mad genius. Much respect to that guy!
Haha that deer at the start 😎
I know, it was chessy.....but it just had to be done LOL
Thank you so much for sharing and describing the smells! But you were torturing me ha ha! I want all of the smells right in front of me right now!😆. This is very cool. I’ve had a love for essential oils and perfumes for years!
This video was great...so great. It helped me enormously. Thank you, my friend.
Great video! My favourite musks are habanolide for a masculine clean vibe and muscenone for a sensual effect. Good in combination too. I sometimes to overdose muscenone at maybe 2 to 2.5%. Filth!
Have you used Velvione or the Animalis base? If so I'd be interested to know what you think.
Musenone....Drooooolllll.....yum
I love this vid, I rewatch it a lot trying to absorb the knowledge. I love Exaltolide Total at 20% on test strip into the deep dry down.
Exaltolide total was one of my fist musk loves. You should branch out and try as many as you can...its amazing to smell all the different kinds.
@@bkscents7050 I definitely will! I adore musk heavy frags, and enjoy learning the individual notes. Today when I smelled Haitian Vetiver I'm like "Yup, that's one of main notes I smell in Encre Noire"... Also, I received Brazilian Rosewood EO the other day, its Divine. Today I get pure Linalool and I'm like "hmmmm this smells like less complex Brazilian Rosewood EO". Googled it, and sure enough it contains 70-90% natural Linalool. This is the funnest match game ever!
@@originalsupermommy If you like Encre Noir, check out Vetiveryl acetate too....its a tamer refined vetiver material and pairs nicely with Haiti vertiver EO.
@@bkscents7050 so far I have about 65 raw materials and I think my favorite is Labdanum. When I smelled it I was like "YES! This is just like TF Amber Absolute!" ... I did watch Christophe Laudamiel on Brooklyn Fragrance Lover's channel talking about his creation of the frag and bought the raw ingredient because it's one he talked about using. In my materials so far I got most of the ones you recommended in your beginner tips vid.
@@originalsupermommy That video was stellar! Also try a touch of Ambrain...which is another form of labdanum. Almost the same...yet slight different. TF Amber Absolute has a very very small amount of it in there (like 15 /1,000 if i recall correctly)
Haha cool reindeer, I tell you what does work well with musky woody floral perfumes is the allergen Alpha Isomethyl-Ionone especially with ebanol you get some exotic sillage then. Generally I'll add about 2% works quite well with all musks really but mainly galaxolide and white Musk.
Yummmm...them Ionone Gammas go so well with white musks. I might try some now with Romandolide....
A musk see video, for sure!
Hahaha! I see what you did there ....
Thank you soo much for this video. All of your videos are very useful. I'm waiting to purchase a scale it's the last thing I need. I'm not in a hurry because I have alot of smelling to do. Thanks again.🙂
Hi BK Scents,
I was wondering if there's a good perfumery training kit you can recommend. Right now I'm looking at all kinds of kits, and don't really know which one to choose. BTW, I'm in Europe. Thanks in advance, and your videos are excellent and to-the-point. Keep up the good work.
pellwall.com/?s=Kit&post_type=product
PellWall has a ton of kits. It's hard to recommend on to you without knowing what your budget is and about how many different materials you want to buy, and how many you already currently own.
@@bkscents7050 Here's a fast rundown: I'm a true newbie at perfumery, but am eager to learn. I'm planning on making a serious business out of this, hopefully, as I am a 40 years old male with artistic background and cash capital to spare, desperately wanting to change careers!
Now, while PellWall is more or less considerable for supplies, here's what I was thinking: What if I 1.) keep watching all your videos and take lecture notes, 2.) keep reading articles and books on perfumery, 3.) purchase those training kits they sell at Perfumers Apprentice to get my feet wet, then 4.) start experimenting with PellWall's 100 Essential Aroma Chemicals? Would all this expand my knowledge to a somewhat intermediate level?
It's gonna take a lot of time and experimenting. The only way to truly learn is to dive in and just put in the work, experimenting and just tinkering and trials. You'll learn down the road that you'll end up buying more and more materials, for once you get to a point of "I want to make an xxxxx note/accord", you'll run to the online store to get the necessary materials.....and it's a continuous circle of buying, lol. You'll find yourself buying new materials almost every week, or every other week once you get going. But yes, the perfumersapprentice starter kit they sell is actually quite good and well rounded chosen materials that's a good starting point.
@@bkscents7050 So you just basically sanctioned my little strategy hehe! I’m going to order those kits right away. And also; you’re helping people from all different walks of life with these classes. Please carry on like this!
@@mehnick All the best Man with your project , I am also an aspiring perfumer . I might become your first mentee/employee .
Very useful video. Thank you!
Thank you sir, for another informative class in perfumery. Would there be enough information to have a video based on incense & incense accords used in perfumery?
I never really focused on an incense accord before. If i wanted that style of 'note', id probably just use mostly Olibanum, and possibly a touch of guaiacol, birch tar for smoke...and then an extra touch of something woody. But incense can be all over the place because not all incense smells the same, because of what type of incense stick/flavor it is.....
"Incense" is a very broad term. I'm working on an Nag Champa accord which includes Patchouli (4pts Clearwood), Sandalwood (2pts Ebanol, 2pts Javanol) and Musk (an accord that's largely based in Galaxolide and Habanolide). It's not perfect but it's a start.
Most other incense accords are based in Frankincense or Myrrh with Amber or Labdanum. But it really depends on the type of incense scent you are trying to make.
Great Video Bk. It's amazing how different our noses are because I can pick up Galaxolide but my nose cannot detect Ethylene B. for the life of me. I have a question regarding dilutions for your blends; while I do understand it's always good to dilute materials down to 10% for smelling and better understanding of them, do you also dilute musks such as Galaxolide, Helvetolide, Ethylene B or even ISO e Super to use in your blends? thx
For small batch trials blends....yes I used everything diluted. My musk's are at 10% (some are even less like 5 or 1% depending on what musk it is)....but my iso E super and Hedione I use at 50%.
But once a formula is done and finalized, I'll make large batch concentrates with all neat (undiluted) materials.
@@bkscents7050 Thanks for the quick reply! Hope to see more of your videos in the near future. They definitely help out a lot.
Hey BK, what’s the best materials to use to jack up my performance projection and longevity wise. Any help in this would be greatly appreciated.
Great info! I have a question, so I am new to perfumery/scent blending and would like to know if any of you guys can tell me how to give a scent a clean, musky dark finish, but smooth at the same time? Kind of like what you smell in men's beard care products?? I appreciate y'all
Your videos are so helpful. Thank you.
Great video thanks a lot for sharing
Grate information about musk
Please suggest buy sourse
perfumersapprentice.com
perfumersupplyhouse.com
BK,
Awesome on the musk mixes.
If you haven't already done an aquatic scent fregrance video would you post one. If you have done a video on aquatic scent how can it be found?
So much good scent you spread...thanks.
Aquatics is easy....theres so many different materials to choose from, Calone, Cascalone, Melanol, Scentenal, Aquamate, Floralozone, Helional, etc....you just have to find the one that suits the perfume theme the best because they all have different facets to them.
Hi BK, I know that this is an old video but I was wondering if there was a way to tone down or neutralize musk in fragrances you’ve purchased? There is a specific type of musk that is in Xerjoff Erba Pura and Tiziana Terenzi Kirke that smells so strong that it over powers my senses and it just doesn’t smell good to me at all. And there is a perfume I recently purchased that is a flanker to a scent that uses that same musk but it doesn’t have musk listed, however I can smell that musk in the dry down of this one. I really want to keep it because it has a beautiful opening and mid but the dry down makes me so sad because all that’s left is that musk that I really dislike. Is there anything I can do to save it?
Awesome advices…Thank you
Tq bro, I'm started to learn from you..!
Question bro why are aroma chemicals used so much and why do they seem like they’re best to use? Also i love your channel man good shit
They are much cheaper than natural materials, more stable materials, and generally have a longer lasting scent than the natural versions
@@bkscents7050 oh ok thanks
Man i also used to think i hated musks until i started seeing them in all of my favorite perfumes . Usually white musks and it doesnt smell bad so that changed my view*
I was the same way at first. But then once I started using them and all the variations.....they are very functional and sometimes discrete
Thank you so much sir, your adorable knowledge, I have a query in the beginning of vedio as you said we use benzoin, labdanum,sandal as a fixative and also we use musk as fixative then my query is that if I use benzoin or labdanum as a fixative in compound then can I use musk in that compound.
Hi bk, do we need to dilute ethylene brassylate before use and if yes at what percent?
Hi BK..it's me again..🤷♀️🤷♀️ what is a good fixative for my essential oils perfume to last longer without altering my Scents?
Sir. Thanks lots for giving knowledge about musk's use in perfumes.but sir you have not mentioned nitro musk like musk ambrit .musk zylon. Musk ketones wildly use in industrial perfumes. Thanks lots sir.
Have you ever used Ambretex XMN 0512? Would be nice to see a comparison to ambrettolide! I’m finding that I love ambrette scents.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Can you please tell something about cashmeran? Is that also a musk?i love the odour of cashmeran and always wanted to use it but hardly use it. Can you tell a formula for a masculine perfume base note with woody warm sensual and deep musky base?
I will be grateful if you can help me out with this
Bro can we just use dpg, perfumers alcohol & essential oils? Is it better to use fixatives like galaxolite or tonalide, etc to get longevity or only dpg will do the trick?
Edit: Also which is better galaxolite & tonalide, mass pleasing?
Hi dear. Your videos are so exiting for me.thanks a lot.
The Ethylene Brassylate I have does have a rather "strong" smell to it. Smells a bit flowery/floral and sweet to me. It smells rather nice and I do love to use it! But if you think it smells like Galaxolide, does that mean the Ethylene Brassylate I have is "off"?
No, yours isn't off. That's exactly what it smells like. It's a basic clean white musk (like Galaxolide), but it does have a more pronounced odor with a slightly fruity sweet background
It's a very grateful video.
I have a question.
Don't you use musk ketone?
It's a different story from the musk theme, but can you tell me what the oil that says "terpeneless" is different from what it doesn't? (lemon oil cold pressed / lemon oil terpeneless)
I don’t use musk keytone due to it IFRA restrictions, but a good alternative is Muscenone. “Terpenless” usually means they removed some of the limonene content, so the material is smoother and less spikey
@@bkscents7050 thank you so much !!
You say you can use lots of technical musk, but even you cant scent it, wouldnt it have a negative effect on projection?
Hello BK, I am a bit confused with the use ratios.
Are these use ratios for neat or diluted forms?
It is more about ratios. For example you could use for 20% ... 2g, 10% ...1g.
But in this case, it would be neat, and as a base. They would go towards a concentrate and other notes like heart notes and tops would also be added to the concentrate, then a diluent like perfumers alcohol would be added to the concentrate depending on the strength or type of fragrance you require for e.g perfume is roughly 20% concentrate to 80% perfumers alcohol.
Diluting your ingredients is due to either a) the ingredients is very resinous or solid, b) is very strong smelling so you need very little amounts...like fractions of a gram. Or c) to save money and ingredients when experimenting.
Hey now, I LOVE a cannabis strain called Dogshit. And yes, it smells like dogshit, but in flower form it's just so beautiful lol. SO syvette? I was curious to try and isolate the particular terpenes that create that smell so I could recreate it
Lol....yes....if it smells like shit, you would want to try using Civet. Civet smells fecal and pretty raunchy....but in low doses it created a nice warmth and sultry vibe
what's your thoughts on happyang perfume..... What type of musk are they using
love the vids and knowledge drop. background sound not so much.
I picked up Tonalide today (crystals from Perfumer's Apprentice) and dissolved 10% in PA....but similar to Ambrettolide I can't smell a thing. Nada, nothing! Very frustrating! Is this common?
Yes, it's very common that certain musks are hard to smell or detect. The more you play with them...the more your nose becomes attuned and can start to smell it. I was this same way with many musks at first.
Is it safe to use Ethylene brassylate on my skin?
Great content ❤
But for example how much an parfumer or a parfumery house may charge for 300 bottles of 100 ml ( 3000-5000$) right???
Yes but which hobby doesnt cost money, and you dont need to buy all at once.
@@oinkoink644 no I started it like a bussiness, moreover you are so right 💁🏻♂️😅
Ah okay, i wish you sucess☺️
Thank you for the video! I like your content but in my opinion, the music behind destroys the concentration. Maybe is just me, but you could ask your fans if they prefer content with music or without 😃.
I agree. The music was too loud at certain points...and the choice of music was probably not appropriate for this type of video. I'm going to make adjustments going forward :)
Fantastic video please make new video
What synthetic fragrance can I use to get a washed coral scent? And also if a perfume says it had coconut water what synthetic fragrance is that?
For a 'coconut water' accord, it start with the simple ingredients of Cascalone, Gamma Octalactone & Aldehyde C-18
Way too late in the game, but where can I find all these musky aroma chemicals in the US?(Preferably a single website/store😊)
Try perfumersupplyhouse or perfumersapprentice. They carry lots of goodies.....
Does functional musk act as base notes?
Thank you
king👑👑👑
Thank you so much for this insight! I have a question for you, I'm new to the fragrance making world and im making a new fragrance and i really want to have a musk note, some of the notes in my fragrance includes; honey, amber, berries, star anise, cashmeran, rosemary oil. Which musk do you think would be best suited for this fragrance? I am on a bit of a budget btw. Thank you very much.
Zenolide
@@Yuchub33 thank you
thank you very much
Sooo where do you get yours from?
"Musk"
perfumersapprentice.com
perfumersupplyhouse.com
Hi can you please advice how to dilute Musk Ketone, ethanol doesn’t work Ive heard I can use Benzyl Benzoate is that true.
Benzoyl benzoate can work, so can DPG. But the trick is to dilute it down low. Because this is an IFRA restricted material, I keep mine diluted down to 5%
@@bkscents7050 Really, I’ve already did it 10% will also do it 5% thank you.
It will not fully dissolve....so when fine the time to use it...simply heat it up on a hot plate before use
The only musk i have is zenolide but its sooo faint
Would Auratouch be considered a white musk?
Not really. To my nose its a VERY scented musk. It smells pretty "dark fruity" sweet and very round smelling, and it doesnt have much of a animalic smell either. Its one of those easier to smell musks, so i wouldnt really consider it a "white" musk, which to most people they have a hard time smelling because its so clean and transparent.
Appreciate the sabers...
Sometimes ya just need guidance from the force.....
Oh man. I got covid and lost my smell for a month. After recovery galaxolide smells so STRONG i can't smell anything else if it has galaxolide. Even my shampoo (head and shoulder) has galaxolide, and all I smell is galaxolide. Its freaking annoying.
Has your smell improved? I also lost my smell due to Covid and still recovering. I randomly smell either something chemical or just simply plain bad smells.
@@monikamerenyi3316I experienced kinda the same thing, I used to smell random stuff like iso e super, pomegranates and other random stuff. But never bad smells. I did some nose training and saw immediate improvements. One mistake I made was wearing a perfume (which was musk based) that caused the galaxolide sensitivity. For the past 1 month I had stopped smelling galaxolide. Today reading your comment I tried smelling a perfume that I couldn't smell before and realised my galaxolide sensitivity has lessened.
Sir please give me oud perfume formula
habanolide ?what do you think?
I use it.....a lot......lol. it's one of my go to musk's for masculine blends
We can use Musketon in perfume?
I’ve never heard of this material before. Do you have a link of where you bought it from?
Wow!
Are you for hire? Id like to have my own cologne recipe i can use to make my own spray colognes.....
How can i contact u ? I really some some advice and information from u
F$@k yes bruh 👨🏼🔬
Habanolide?
i thought galaxolide was banned
dont know why i disliked this video, changed to a like. must have been befoer i actually started perfuming and had no idea that i loved musks. sorry!
LOL..musks are essential! I was the same way when i started perfuming, i was afraid to use musks because I dont like "musky" or "musty" smells...but thats not the case at all when you start to sample different types of musks :)
Hey BK. Great video. How do I get in touch with you. email, insta, etc? If that is possible? let me know.
I didn't want the video yet and never made a perfume. Wondering if you can use more than one type of musk in a perfume?
I spy an evertune bridge lol
Wet dog is being too kind, subway pee pee is what I smell
A smell can't be warm or textured. This is nonsensical. Those are not aromatic descriptors.
Sure it can....it's simply descriptors. Some things actually smell piercing and sharp.....some softer and comforting and easy on the nose. It's just basic ways to describe something so people get the concept of how it evokes feeling's
That would be like going to an art gallery and hearing someone say "this painting makes me feel warm and comforting".....and you then saying "no, it's can't.....that's not possible".
Smells can absolutely have textures. A huge part of the enjoyment you get from food is the smell and not just the scents but their textures. You're telling me you don't smell how thick a heavy whipping cream is compared to skim milk?
of course, but texture is not a aromatic descriptor@@Shrilaraune
@@JayandSarah I literally described a texture in my comment above. Have a nice day
Is there any fixative to increase the projection right frm the spray..?
Very informative. Thanks with great appreciation.