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Perfumery Workhorse Materials - Iso E Super, Hedione, Musks
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- Опубліковано 15 сер 2024
- The 3 most commonly used workhorse materials in modern day perfumery. Why we use them, what they smell like, and average percent usages in popular fragrances.
Iso E Super
Hedione
Musks
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-- Perfumery, DIY perfumes, fragrance reviews, perfumery tips & tricks, tutorials, classes, basics, training, courses, how to's, and learning to make your own perfume and fragrances!
#bkscents #diyperfumery #fragrances
BK SCENTS :)
Could you please make a video on fixative materials, and maybe another video on diffusive materials, and third talking about material tenacity and sillage (and maybe tips on how to improve it)?
EDIT: Also maybe mention how to get fragrances to leave a lingering "trail" behind, or how to improve projection, or how to keep the scent closer to the skin.
I love Pasadena, At least you can still eat outdoors I think, I am in Century City. I have been mixing frags for about 5 years. I am reserved to take the Foundation course at perfumers World at a perfume studio on Highland Ave. So Excited to learn more. they have a free Foundation course online with a hundred supporting videos too! Keep Posting BK!
Galaxolide was the first musk I bought. It was easily my favorite of the order.
Then you're gonna love the video im about to upload on "Musks".....
its a fixative ?
I am just starting out making some blends as a hobby. Yours are THE BEST videos of all the many I've seen. I'm subscribed and watching all the time. Your explanations of the roles of the different materials in fragrances is so masterful. Thank you so much!
Thanks for your useful videos! i have a note here regarding Hedione; its scientific name is Methyl Dihydrojasmonate (It's an ester). I can say here it has the nuances of Jasmine. You will not notice it on a strip directly, but if you train your nose many times you will be able to discover it. :)
Tanks brother. For this great information.
You are very smart
We are waiting your next video.
Don't be late please.
Thank you! 😀 I try to upload once a week!
Acetophenone and Farnesol accord is superior for the heart of the fragrance. I don't add it within the fragrance rather instead as an additive layer. Acetophenone has an odour impact equivalent of citral. So the layer is arranged much like the fragrance in the pyramid terms but only at 50%.
Your videos are very nice educational and helpful thank you very much
Sooo helpful ! Thank you for the insights into the use percentages of popular fragrances
So helpful! Thank you!
Great video as always brother! I just found your channel and I've gotta say you put in so much great information and effort into these videos and it doesn't go unnoticed!
Best channel on youtube.
Wonderful! Thank you for all the wonderful information. You have so much knowledge to share.
Very useful , especially about hedione . Which I just bought . And ISO E. Thankyou
Nice, stumbled upon your channel; you post on BN as "Bkkorn" yeah? Thanks for the valuable information.
Yup, that's me on BN! :)
Thanks man. I like your videos. Im fromUSA but still talk in broken Enrish
Thank you! 😊
Decided to venture into the synthetics after watching these. Iso e super is the scent I have been looking for! Turns out I can’t smell galaxolide (polycyclic musks?) !!! I thought I had COVID for a couple days, until I watched “interview with a nose” channel with, can’t remember his name now, and he mentioned this!
Thanks for nice video . Would you please explain the IFRA restrictions ? How can big brands can use Iso E Super for 45% in their formulas while IFRA recommendations is 21.03 . I just can't understand how to use IFRA recommendations and restrictions. Thank you on advance
IFRA restrictions are for the "finished product", after the final alcohol has been added to make it an EDT/EDP/Parfum concentration perfume. When a perfumer states they have 45% IES in their formula, that is just regarding the 'concentrate' formula of just the raw materials alone (without any sort of dilutions). So if someone states they have 40% ISO in their "formula", and they make a final finished perfume thats about 15% concentration (EDP)....that IES content in the finished product is actually only a little over 6% IES.
@@bkscents7050 thanks bro. You are cool. Good luck
Hhh
@@dawoadalyaqoby1952 ma bik ?
Your channel is great! But where are you getting the info on what % each fragrance has of each chemical?
You can send samples of a fragrance into a lab and get a GCMS report that tells you all the materials that are in it
BK Scents did you do these or can you find these online?
@@bkscents7050 ❤
Great quality videos.
Can you please make a video on making non alcoholic perfume sprays?
👩🔬thank you. Great video
Again thanks for the knowledge drop!!!
Another great one, I love these style of videos
What is the fragrence with the Most ambrox and hedione in It other than Dior sauvage
Good info here! 👍🏼🙏
Thank you for this video! So informative and helpful
Thank you for the kind words 😊
Where do you get these data from? Like this fragrance uses 48% Iso-E-Super and that fragrance uses 53% Hedione? I really wanna know what's the percentage of Oakmoss Nishane used in initial formulations of Hacivat(Prior to 2020, I still have a bottle from 2020 but it's different than the one from 2018).And I also wanted to know what kinda Oakmoss material did they use like did they use the actual Oakmoss absolute or some aroma chemicals and in what percentage ?🤔
Thanks for the info
Have you tried Chanel 1957 on skin? If you have a Chanel Boutique near you, please do and let us know what materials they might have used and in what percentage 😅
Love your knowledge and perfumery advice! Where are you located? I am in LA Westside, me, and my Fragrance organ...
Pasadena here!
Thanks for the video.
Very informative 🥂
This is a lot of knowledge
Thanks again perfect lecture like always
Thank you! 😊🙏
Which musk can I use that is strong like Aldron?
i searched your vids and no mention of aldemone wondering if you ever used it?
Maybe you can make a single video talking about those variety of musks and what they are good for? I mean, when you said that there are various kind of musk, it means not only galaxolide and tonalide, right?
Btw, I always love your videos!
Yes, at some point I need to make a musk's video. But right now I only have 6 different types of musk's and I want to get a few more before doing a dedicated video for musk's.
what will be the formula?can you help us,because im using 25% in fragrance oils,1-5% both in fixative and dpg,and 70% perfume grade alcohol,where will i put the percentage of iso-e super or hedione?in fragrance oil formula or in the whole formula?am i still goin to use fixative?
Hello, first of all, sory for my English.
I heard that iso e super can increase the projection of the fragrance..
So I'm thinking to buy iso e super, n directly mix it to my designer fragrance..for example, I take out 10ml of my designer fragrance from the bottle, then put it in another bottle or decant, then directly pour iso e super in it..is it possible to do this?..if yes, tell me the ideal % of iso e super I can add..bcoz this is the finished product I am talking about..not raw concentration
Hello,
Can you help me understand the difference between Hedione and glucam P-20. As I know both of this molecule help the top notes elevate.
Thank you!
Hi, I’m into perfume making and want to know how you clean the tear dropper glass tubes or glass bottles. Not sure if you’ve made a video on it, but I can’t find it.
I simply fill up a mason jar with standard rubbing alcohol....and drop the glass pipettes in them and let them soak for a few hours. Then just rinse them under hot water.....air dry.....and done.
@@bkscents7050 okay thanks!
I wish I lived in California or you were in New York City. Would’ve been cool to take your classes in perfumery. ( wishful thinking)
HAHHA! these arent classes my man...im just spreading information across YT videos. Dropping little tidbits and hints on how to do things, and passing along info for others that may find it useful.
@@bkscents7050 lol 😂 whatever it might be. Lol 😂 Just keep on dropping them gems!! You so clear in your delivery and have learned a lot! I really enjoy your content. I put the “classes” into the universe. Hopefully one day you might. Thanks man, keep up the great work!
Spreading information inscense parfum...
Quick question: I always have the most difficult time using Iso E Super because, for me, the smell is incredibly strong and it seems to completely overpower any trial blends I might be working on with even just a few drops, making it smell almost too chemical-like or even slightly soapy. If I'm already using other materials like heavy base notes, such as various woods and resins as well as musks and hedione, is iso e super even necessary? Just thought I'd ask because I know a lot of people can't smell iso e super and I often can't detect in most designer fragrances despite the fact that it literally constitutes over half of the entire formulation in many of those fragrances. Yet when I try using it, it's very strong and very prominent when I add it in.
You dont need to add in anything you dont want to. I personally like to use it because its a nice "semi-scentless" bed for everything else to settle into. If you find the IES scent is overpowering, stick to lower ratios of IES like 5-10% of your formula and see what happens. But its not uncommon to use ratios of 20-30% in designer frags.
@@bkscents7050 Thanks BK. Yeah if I use a very small amount, then it's fine but anything substantial and it just ruins the scent for me, but I guess that's the case with any material really. I do love using hedione though because I think it adds some diffuseness to my blends and best of all, I can barely smell it.
Can it be use in any perfumes
Nice work, keep it up :)
Thanks man! 🙏😁
You are awesome, great content ❤.
Keep your good work, love and support from India.
Would like to connect with you please guide.
Great information.
You're on point 👍👍👍👍
Very explicit and helpful. Thank you! I was wondering, in Baccarat Rouge, what do you think they used as 'work horse'?🙂
Hedione....lots and lots of hedione, lol
@@bkscents7050 thank you, but really, what percentage and why lol?🤔🙂
Which fragrence dobyou know use Lots of hedione hedione ? Thank you
Request : explain smell 4 ingredients
Beta damascone
Delta damascone
Alpha damascone
Beta damascenone
Easy peasy....I can do that this week
@@bkscents7050 big thank !! ☺️
Loading the damascones video now....should be live in 15min
@@bkscents7050 wow!!
Ironically, I was just talking about Iso Super E (Molecule 01) you have my attention. .
Thanks! You dah man! 😁😊
That’s not ISO E Super in Molecule 01... ISO Gamma Super and it isn’t available to the public.
@@andrewh175 Timbersilk is pretty close
@@kheperael1104 ISO Gamma Super has 18% of gamma isomer. Timbersilk is 15%. Sylvamber is 22% so... mix them.
Can you tell me Hedione % how much put into 30ml perfume
Been watching your videos a few times already. I have ordered a batch of aroma chemicals and have noticed that one of them is similar to the other one. I bought the iso e super but also timbersilk. Do you use timbersilk the same way as iso e super? Is it handy to have both?
Timber silk is “supposed “ to be a stronger version of iso e super, but quite honestly I never noticed a difference between the 2 when using them....so I just stick to iso e super now.
@@bkscents7050 I chucked in a load of stuff into my basket not realising it was the same thing. I have both anyway but it's a shame they smell the same and can't notice much difference! Thanks for confirming though. At least of I do use it then it would be for the same effect. It wasn't too expensive anyway. 30ml for $6
Don’t think of it as a mistake or loss.....you can never have too much iso e super (timbersilk). You’re gonna realize how much of that stuff youre actually gonna use!
@@bkscents7050 Judging by your video here, it gets used a hell of a lot! I am sure it will all get used up. Great info on the big brands and what they use.
@Contra Punctus Thanks. Once I realized they are similar I also spotted Sylvamber. I will experiment with them. I am thinking of using both in a blend.
How much we can use iso e super in 100ml perfume??
What about arej la Dore. How much isoEsuper
Hi! Thanks for all the info, still so relevant today! I was wondering, if Hedione is also known as methyl dihydrojasmonate, why do the ingredient lists for CK one, Light Blue etc never contain this compound? I also never seen methyo dihydrojasmonate listed in any other fragrances that list Hedione as a note? TIA
If you are referring to the "ingredients list" as to what's listed on the fragrance box/packaging/label....these items are only listed for regulations and allergens. These lists won't contain every single material that makes up of the fragrance.
@@bkscents7050 That makes perfect sense....Thanks so much😊
Nice video as always, which one is better you think? Iso e super or Timbersilk?
I prefer IES. It's smoother and easier to usem. Timbersilk is a touch more drier and stronger.
I put some Iso E Super and Sadalmysore in different plastic bottles and both now have a rubber smell. Is that from using plastic pipettes and leaving them upside down with some oil still in, and it's broken them down, or is it more likely the bottle?.. The bottles a re PTFE I expect. The Iso E Super I got from Plush Folly is not thick...
Dont use plastic bottle for storage. Use glass boston round bottles
@@bkscents7050 They were tester vials in glass bottles. Mixed with "perfumers alcohol" (not the real stuff), at 15% in plastic spray bottles. I dunno what is going to make it smell rubbery. I doubt it's the bottles coz It happened with 2 different types of plastic bottles. It's not battery acid, I doubt it's reacting with the plastic at 15% dilution. I intend to get some glass spray bottles - if it does it with them then it must be something else doing it. I'm not using plastic pipettes any more so that's one less thing it could be if it happens in the future.
@@bkscents7050 I just got some Timbersilk and it has that exact same rubber smell to it. All from that family of chemical have that same disgusting rubber element to them I think, to my nose anyway; maybe my nose is picking up something other people can't, or just in a different way. I don't think it would be so popular if everyone smelt what I do. Cedramber doesn't have the rubber stench though.
Do you get headache as a perfumer while working with strong materials?
I have yet to come across a material that gave me a headache. But I have have worked with materials with odor strengths so strong....just opening the bottle filled the room with stench for 4-5 days. And that was just from opening the bottle! Lol
Seems like I read that Element 1 is all ISO e Super but the Gamma molecule and that it can't be purchased by us regular people; that it's propitiatory.
You referring to "Molecule 01"?
@@bkscents7050 I was. I'm with you to learn.
@@bkscents7050 I said Element 1? My brain is becoming fuddled.
Nice vid!! You seem to know a lot about the Nautica Voyage!! Do you have a GCMS of it, or a formula?
I have a gcms of it 😃
@@bkscents7050 Ahh ok!!! Nice!! :D
Nice try Gollum! You tried to get "the precious!" (GCMS) haha
@@andrewh175 LOL!!! Nice one! :-D But in all honesty I do have a GCMS of Voyage, I'm not sure if it's the same one, so that's why I was asking how come he knows so much about that one, his numbers are spot on....except for saying that it only contains Galaxolide....it has 7% Tonalide too ;-)
DOH! i forgot to mention the Tonalide in my video for Voyage. But yep, its 7%
Hi. What about Ambroxan. Is it better than Hedione ?
2 completely different materials. Hedione is a light transparent floral (airy jasmine) where Ambroxan is a Ambergris-type with a classic mens "shower gel" vibe
Iso Super a different chemical or is it Alcohol ?
I read somewhere that we can not use Iso e super more then 21%.
iFRA restrictions on Iso E super are 21.4% in the " finished product". So when you see formulas that have it at 35-40% it's still ok because that's not the finished product, that's just the raw formula without any dilutions. Once you dilute it down to like EDt (10%) there will be obviously less iso e super content and it will still pass iFRA
So MOLECULE 01 is actually just a fixative ??
Not really, Molecule 01 isn't Iso E Super...its actually a different type of IES with different gammas. The closest thing to it would be a mixture of Timbersilk and Sylvamber. But even then, all these ISE type materials last about 200-300 hours on a paper strip so they are more of middle notes rather than base fixatives.
How do you know these percentages, is there like a website for these things? Thanks dude
These percentages are obtained when you send a sample of a fragrance to get a GCMS analysis. In the analysis it tells you exactly what's in it, and how much
BK Scents thanks for the response. Which place do you recommend to do this from, could you put a link? Thank you
phytochemia.com/en/services-2/
BK Scents many thanks 😊
@@bkscents7050 Can i ask, how much does it cost to send these samples? Cheers
using the same theme, I like molecule 01 better 🥴
Nautica Voyage
Musks better natural or syntethic? Or both?
The only 'Natural' musk ive seen is Ambrette, which i have yet to try out. Im not even sure if its legal to have real deer musk taken form a deer now a days (humane thing). I lean to synthetic musks 100%
@@bkscents7050 thanks great. Do you think that following your guide and your buy suggestion, will be possible to really make that great complex fragrance with prestation same that niche perfumes? I really would like to try. For curiosity I start easy with some fragrance oils, that is already blended, but clearly its not like if I make molecole after molecole, cause these are already done, and I think that fragrance oil will be never with high quality
@@bkscents7050 oh sorry I just saw you already responded me in other post. Thanks
Which musk smells animalic?
Do you have any wish to create your own brand???🤔
At the moment, no. Maybe down the road I’ll launch a brand with a handful of fragrances....but that very much later down the future.
@@bkscents7050 Thanks for the answer. That would be great and do also a great video about how to start your own brand 👍😉
Hii.. Can we use all 3 in all perfumes
@bkscents7050 is there a way to make a perfume that smells of Iso E Super? I love it´s smell, just wish it would be stronger, or that we could make a perfume that smells like that chemical....
Hi BK, do you have email address , I have an issue and need to take your opinion urgently.. Thanks in advance
Sorry, I keep my personal info off the Internet for privacy reasons