Perfumery Basics: Creating Simplistic Accords/Notes - Caramel
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- Опубліковано 21 лют 2021
- A breakdown of my thought process on how I create a simplistic accord/note to use in perfumery, with the example of "Caramel"
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BK SCENTS :)
Gourmand accords are easier for me to create because I know what makes up those smells from being a cook for so long. Like caramel for example, the stereotypical caramel scent is comprised of caramelized/burnt sugar, cream and butter. A touch of vanilla and maybe some molasses if you used brown sugar in the caramel. So then I go find the aroma chemicals and materials going off that. Gourmand accords are my favorite to make.
Same here...I'm a sucker for a good gourmand fragrance
Thats really good and informative. Need more like these.
About aquatic or marine accord please
I don't generally do accords for aquatic. Calone is a good start, in your bass your probably gonna want geosmin, Vetiver and treemoss and a konifer note in there like Cedar depends though which way you wanna go cool Water style is like aromatic aquatic in that case if your doing a fragrance similar to that you'd leave out the fruit or maybe just add Bergamot. Seaweed is another good note to add and Corriander always works well.
Request : Next accord sea water (not green water) , cotton candy , litchee
Thank you.
This is very helpful to understand, that first we have to create the accords and then mix the accords to achieve the fragrance, thanks a lot!
Absolutely helpful in many ways!
This is, as always, so damn valuable! Thanks dude keep up the good work :)
Thank you very much bro for good lessons !
in natural perfumery, mixed vanilla absolute, tonka absolute, cacao co2 and coffee co2 just a tad of frankinciense to add smokiness
Again another new video request can you discuss about "Schiff's Base" and its effects in your video please
Really good video, good idea doing an accord and a simply accord like this. Can I ask if you know of an aroma chemical that is very much like Cherry? I have used Benzaldehyde that has that slight cherry note but is more almond based, maybe there is a simply accord that can represent that cherry smell? Keep up the good work.
I would to see you make a male fragrance for the spring / summer in the future 👍🏻
Thanks man great video
Gonna try it out with John Mayer in the back as well
Thank you SO MUCH!
Nice a simple. Not too many notes... Like a good solo!
Ok, that spreadsheet hurt my brain. Nonetheless, I think this was some of the most high yield time I spent on UA-cam this year. Thank you. I’m going to watch the rest of your videos for sure. How did the fragrance you were working on turn out?
How do you go about diluting the Sotolone? At that dilution rate, even one drop would be what, a 500 ml solution?
Hello and thank you for your videos! Question - instead of creating my final accord using raw ingredients and then adding the alcohol, why wouldn't I just use the prediluted ingredients exactly as in my tinker, except I just scale it up by x amount to fill up the size of my accord bottle? If I understand correctly, it's because the final accord concentration would end up something strange e.g. 7% dilution as in your example, and I want to be able to control what percentage my accord is, right? Hope that made sense...that was hard to articulate ha. Thank you 🙏
Hey Bryan,
What would you recommend for a good quality, accurate laboratory scale for a do-it-yourselfer that is also affordable? I currently only have one of those cheap $10 jewelry scales and the biggest problem with it is that it's both too sensitive and not sensitive enough if that makes sense. For example, there are many times where I have to add a lot of a particular material in order for it to show any amount of weight on the display, which means that by the time it does show the weight, I've added too much. But also, once it does get to a certain weight, it will fluctuate back and forth several hundredths of a gram. So basically, if I try to go by weight with the scale I have, it's basically all a guess. This is a big problem, especially if I'm only wanting to add maybe 2-3 drops of a particular material. In fact, sometimes what I have to do is either add a bunch of drops of a material in a separate container and then whatever the weight is, I just divide that according to the number of drops I've added to my blend (which means wasting material) or I just don't zero out the scale before adding a material that I only need 2-3 drops of. Of course, I have to be quick if I do that because my scale will automatically shut off if I leave it on for too long.
This one is a solid choice : ussolid.com/300-x-0-001g-analytical-balance-1-mg-digital-lab-precision-scale.html
Amazing , tellus more. Thumbs up from me. Cheers
Very informative.. Thank you..❤🫰
Hi there. Love your videos can you please do a raspberry accord ?
I can use 10% methyl laitone instead BBL ?
And i have sotolone 0.03%
How about a dark complex Incense accord, BK...??? I love your teachings!!
For dark incense, you really should check out 'Olibanum Vulcain'. That single material alone is so dark, smokey, and church-like incense....way more complex and darker than normal Olibanum
Hey are you sharing this spreadsheet?
Yeah I think it's best to keep accords simple I generally go by the rule of threes, for me I'll do a caramel accord with benzoin, Vanilla, ethyl maltol. The insence accord I'd love to do it considering I love the oriental notes especially resins but I think ifra frown upon cade oil might be carcinogenic I know calamus is which is a shame since it goes well in floral aquatic style fragrance especially along side melon.
you and me both! I try to keep things as simple as possible! When i look over some of my full perfume formulas, and if i see im reaching over 40+ materials....i tend to step back and think of how i can simplify things.
@@bkscents7050 yeah I tend to go by a bit of a formula, that's why in the training days I tend to get learn and understand the chemistry of each material, kind of gives you insight as to what will suit what. For example the anethole family, anise, fennel, basil, tarragon. And anethole notes they go really well in feminine fragrances especially along side white florals. I think it's actually fennel that stimulates lactation in female rats interesting enough.
The fragrance I made last night was probably the most simple fragrance I made. Was along the same lines as Hot Pepper Azzaro and Encre Noire, I love Cashmeran personally so yeah pretty much just 9 ingredients in total including allergens. Ravensara, Anise, Musk, Cashmeran. Give it about a month roughly to mature, It will probably end up in the fridge for a good couple of weeks and yeah should be good.
which chemical give sharp needle taste in tongue?
Please make more videos sir
Can you write which molecules exactly you used in this video?
thannks for the video
please could you please name the last ingredient you mentioned (???? lacton and Saltonol)
At the end of the video (17:00 - end) theres a screenshot of my formula that lists out all the materials. But its Butyl Butryo Lactate & Sotolone
How would you suggest on how to make a Caramelized orange peel accord?
You've made me drool by just thinking 🤤
I'd start from building the accord with these three:
Orange EO, Labdanum abs, Ethyl Vanillin
Then go with highly diluted these for the nuances:
Furaneol, Strawberry Glycidate (C16), Ethyl Maltol
@@dwsel super great! THANK YOU!
@@sardomnumspa Actually I couldn't resist and I'm doing it at the moment with UA-cam on the headphones 😁
So far I'm at:
20 Orange EO (if you use folded you might need less)
10 Labdanum abs 10%
3 Ethyl Vanillin 10%
3 Ethyl maltol 1%
1 Raspberry glycidate (C16) 10%
You could just start with balancing orange with labdanum, and by itself the mix of these two is 80% there.
The main problem is that the orange goes full on and puff - it's gone very quickly. What's left it's the jammy, fruity caramel that it's left over.
I'm thinking about:
1. How to expand orange beyond the top note. What materials could be useful.
2. If I substituted the orange with something else like i.e. grapefruit or bunch of citrus synthetics what would happen? 🤔
@@dwsel ALRIGHT! You go! Thanks for sharing!
Someone tell me where I can buy accord
Add the EO and chemicals directly into an alcohol while you are figuring out the right accord. It's a lot easier to mix and the end result is a lot more accurate. Whether you make the oil accord and then mix alcohol, or add each ingredient directly into the alcohol while making accords makes very little difference.
Tried to do this now My house smells like sotolone everything smells like that, my coffee mug... My wife asked me if I started smoking, I said no and I know she didnt believe me 😂
The sotalone smell last for weeks. Just from opening the container to make a dilution sample .....my entire house smelled like burnt sotalone for about 3 weeks
I have a doubt. What is the difference between a Base or an Accord? I have also read the terms "base accord" and "base note accord". I am very confused about this. Thanks in advance.
The terms ‘accord’ and ‘base’ are interchangeable to some degree, and the 2 terms are used very loosely.....which causes confusion to many. In my own opinion, I think an ‘accord’ is simply a combination of materials to make up a single “note”, much like “PEA, citronellol and geraniol combines make a rose accord. However a ‘base’ is something where you have multiple materials to make up a combination of combined notes, like a much broader accord with facets. A good example of a base is Ambre83 from Symrise which is labdanum, vanillin, patchouli, rose, bergamot to make up an oriental style amber base. Or even a simple Fougere ‘base’ is simply Coumarin, lavender, geranium, Oakmoss.
@@bkscents7050 Thanks a lot. You are an excellent teacher and I am learning a lot from your videos.
I really like your working style. It's too organized and tidy.
I keep my formulation sheets tidy and precise....but I still feel my workspace, desk and storage can be kept a bit cleaner and more tidy, lol
great video thank you👏. i cant find the excel link in any video. can you support please. best greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Are you playing your tunes in the background ...
Sure am! Rocking the spotify music station
@@bkscents7050 lol , I “m a musician too , my ear was picking up your blues vibe 👌
Love Robert Johnson , Blind Lemon Jefferson , Howling wolf , T bone walker , Lead Belly
The tutorial was great 😁
I agree 100% re Sandalwood, i mean look at santal 33 , its 50% iso e
Did i miss something? Why are we multiplying to 300??
LOL, you said "butt".
Buddy, I'm pretty sure that's not how you say "butyl butyryl lactate". :D
You say the U in butyl as "you", as in "Beaufiful" or "Bueller" or "Butane gas".
For reference: translate.google.com/?sl=en&tl=la&text=butyl%20butyryl%20lactate&op=translate
LOL..oh man, the internet will never let this one down...."butt"
@@bkscents7050 xD
Nice a simple. Not too many notes... Like a good solo!
I didn’t yngwie malmsteen this one😂
I learned every solo on trilogy ... Lol was going to GIT when it came out.