Perfumery Basics: Should I Pre-Dilute My Materials?
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- A brief discussion on why or when one should pre-dilute individual perfumery materials. Explaining the pros vs. cons and some potential benefits by doing so. Accuracy, cost savings, odor strength are all factors looked at in this discussion.
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So true... I diluted materials in 10% and some materials are so strong, it smells amazing and some doesn't even seem to have a smell like Hedion, galaxolide, Cashmeran etc.
Some times I use raw materials and sometimes I have to dilute specially Oakmos C and vetiver etc.
Hello. I am from Argentina and I am a perfumery student. I congratulate you on your videos. Regarding what you say about the dilutions, it is very good. For example, Raspberry Ketone is impossible to use undiluted, because it colonizes all the aromas of your perfume and turns them into a raspberry candy. So at 10% diluting it is fine, even at 1%. The same thing happens with vanilla, you make the best perfume with the top, heart and base notes well harmonized and you add 4 pure drops of vanilla and it creates a flan, it only smells like vanilla. With respect to the prices of the ingredients, it is necessary to rationalize them and buy small quantities until you have a successful formulation, because unused raw materials are unused money and their expiration date is approximately 3 years and the aroma fades away. Thank you very much and a huge hug.
You worked really hard for us to understand and make good content for us newbie wannabe Perfumers
God Bless You Brother
You deserve more exposure brother. More power to you👍
Thank you 😃
Love it! My first small batch of materials and supplies are coming in the mail. Caught this just in time to pre-dilute! Thank you for doing the math 😊
You are awesome. I have learned so much and this video put the cost and trial amounts in such a clear, concise manner. Excellent stuff, thank you so much for what you do.
I purchase all my materials pre-diluted, aside from the woods although perhaps I should dilute those as well. Spices, for me at least, are the most important to dilute before adding to a blend and I learned my lesson the hard way. I had a 2 oz bottle of a vanilla-based fragrance I was making and I wanted to add a touch of pepper to give it a little kick. I literally added 1 drop of pink pepper essential oil and no matter how many other oils I added to try and mask the smell, that one drop of pink pepper overpowered the entire blend. So now, I have it at 10% concentration and even that is very strong. Same thing goes for things like cinnamon. clove and especially some of the very phenolic and smoky notes like birch tar and cade oil.
lol....now your getting it! All predilution is doing is taming the high odor strength materials, so when you add a single drop....it doesn’t ruin your blend, or force you to “double or triple” the amounts of all the other materials just to compensate for that high odor strength bugger....
@@bkscents7050 this sounds nice but then when i think about the concentration of my perfume doesn't using predilutions make the concentration less? is that something you just calculate after using the grams of raw material used?
@@ShmexyBlizzardi have the same questions!!!!
Seeing the cost perspective really opened my eyes. It makes sense for me now to predilute my stuff cause I buy my materials in such small quantities. Thank you for bringing this to light!
That’s cool, but Alfred should have diluted your materials for you. He’s falling down on the job....
@@andrewh175 and why do we fall down master Wayne? To learn to pick ourselves back up!
@@andrewh175 lol!
Your videos are so helpful and well explained, the quality of the information you're giving for free is amazing. Thank you so much for your hard work.
Thank you! 😁
BK you have so much knowledge, thank you so much for sharing this.
Greetings from Brazil 🇧🇷
I am really happy I subscribed - you're giving me the balance of interpretation and technical information that is hard to come by without spending a fortune on books... (I've purchased a few, but my issue is much of the reading material out there isn't exactly direct... it seems to talk around in circles, when I just want answers to questions)... I would like to know about dilutants(dpg vs benzyl benzoate vs ipm etc)and why some are better than others for certain materials?
Certain dilutants are better than others for what the intended outcome is supposed to be. For commercial perfumes, you would dilute using ethyl alcohol, DPG or benzyl benzoate. DPG has a slower evaporation of the 3, so it works well for prediluteing materials.
For making soaps, candles, air fresheners, cremes....you would use different dilutants that are suitable for that particular format
That's really fantastic to know! Thanks for getting back. I look forward to your other vids 🥰
Thank you for sharing your knowledge BK :) Videos are so clear and helpful!!
Thank You very much. It makes a lot of practical sense.
This channel is such a good find. Keep up the brilliant work please!
Thanks for this awesome video man, appreciate your going so in depth. The one argument I've heard against predilution (in ethanol, although it likely applies to other dilutants) is that it impedes the aging process. Where you might want to age a blend of neat oils for 1-4 weeks, it's recommended to age oil-ethanol blends for 1-4 months, as the fragrance molecules will bond with the alcohol molecules and not just each other. As a hobbyist the benefits of predilution outweigh that drawback, but have you noticed that diluted oils take longer to age in a blend?
Well, the pre-dilution of materials is just for tinkering and messing around with blend concepts. Once a formula is finalized and done (using pre-diluted materials), you can then recreate the formula again using nothing but raw materials...and let that sit made mature (age) for a while. That's what I like to do.
@@bkscents7050 Thanks, that seems to be the consensus on Basenotes as well; I usually just make individual blends for friends & family so it's not always worth it to remake the scent with neat EOs when I'm only making a very small amount to begin with, but that approach definitely is the best of both worlds.
Thanks for another great video. Can you do one on working with resins/ solids? I have yet to use them, but I’m curious how you would take a thick substance and dilute it properly without wasting a ton of material. Thanks!
Thank you for going through all these reasons. It is persuasive.
Guess I have to take the time and patience to make some dilutions…once my amber bottles and good scale finally arrive…in the meantime, I waste some raw materials in playing around with them 😊
Thank you. Definitely going to predilute out of respect for my materials!
and you wont burn through so much materials in the long run on many failed experiments :)
I watch your videos on my way to work it's a 30min drive so it's like fragrance radio so sorry if I ask a question that you post during the video and didn't see it in any of your videos. Thanks so much for your videos
All good juan! Enjoy your work commutes! :)
Dilution is also important with regards to bringing out the finer nuances that you wouldn’t detect undiluted. I have a feeling that diluting also extends shelf life? Thanks for upload and subbed 👍
All very excellent points here
I'm really getting a lot of info from your videos. Thanks very much. I bought some musk a few years back right from the musk deer's pod humanely harvested if that's even really possible. But I was assured it wouldn't be killed. Still haven't opened it.
Ooooooo try it out! That sounds exquisite
Thank you. It's informative and well explained. Much of Appreciations. 👍🏻
Can you make this spreadsheet available in google docs like you have made others in the past available? This would be SO HELPFUL to me if I could plug in my numbers. Thank you for making these INFORMATIVE videos (straight to the point without all the “hello Karla, the Spanish word is...ok, where was I...5 commercials later, make another point). You are doing a FANTASTIC job on helping me!
Which spreadsheet are you referring to? I have a video about my perfume formula spreadsheet (on google docs) already....
ua-cam.com/video/qZsUnnNDFHQ/v-deo.html
This one on how to figure the cost. You show it in this video. This would be so helpful!!!
In regards to diluting more solid absolutes that require heat to liquefy, immortelle absolute for example, how would you go about keeping your beaker warm while measuring your ingredient to dilute in perfumer's alcohol?
I have a magnetic mixer machine that has a built in adjustable heat pad. I just place the absolute material (which is usually stored in a glass boston round bottle) and warm it up on the hot plate for a few minutes so it is easier to pour. Without a machine of this type, a coffee pot (the hot plate part) works just was well to warm up hard, viscous absolutes
@@bkscents7050 nice 👍🏻 ok maybe I was overthinking things.
Very helpful, thank you for these great videos!
Do you by chance have a list of materials and what the recommend dilution is? I'm just starting out and trying to figure out what to dilute and what not too is really hard. Any help with this would super appreciated. TIA
Hi, what will happen to the overall strength of perfume formula if I use predilute? I guess weak? So then how can I have better strength while keeping the cost down ? Please guide!
Very Nice clarification Thank you sir
Thank you for all your hard work! I have been binge watching your videos the past week, trying to get my hear around this science. Is there a way I can have access to this spread sheet? Thank you!
This is awesome! Do you have a copy of this spreadsheet by any chance? It would be great to get this for the formulations Im making :)
Hi, I don't dilute but my sample sizes or formulas are pretty small scale like 2g on average. If I feel I need to tweak then definitely I consider diluting x
The bonus of diluting gives a better idea of what it will smell like as a finished product
Yes, that's why 20% dilution for your working materials is a good idea. And your 2g trials are possible only if you have a pretty consistent ratio between materials. That's what it sounds like. I have a large ratio between materials, sometimes 3000 to 1. So I can't make a 2g trial at 100%, almost impossible because I can't make a 0.001g drop at 100%. But at 20%, I can usually make a 5g trial no problem.
Spoken like a true champ
@@andrewh175 makes absolute sense with such variations 👍🏿
Thank you .. i'mm really enjoy yourd video. Make me want to try
Diluting if you're a diy perfumer is just a lot easier to control and far less waste when formulating. I bought all my absolutes diluted with the exception of beeswax, tobacco and hay since they we're small 2 ml amounts and they weren't offered diluted anyway. But they are easy enough to dilute myself. Its way more affordable buying them diluted if available. Naturals are precious and expensive so its terrible wasting it if you don't have to by diluting them. Right now I'm working on a list of which of my essential oils I'd like to dilute like pink pepper and black pepper for example.
Precious absolutes I always dilute, because they are so thick in consistency and impossible to draw from a pipette when its raw. Beeswax, Tobacc and Hay i would probably dilute those down to 5% to start, they are STRONG. I keep my beeswax at a 0.5% working dilution. And yes, absolutes ill end up buying small quantities like 4ml or 15ml, knowing ill end up diluting them down to 5-10% for use in blends giving me a TON of 'working material' for trial blending. But i still keep some at full strength when formulating much larger batches on finished formulas.
I dilute everything by 20%, no matter if I buy it at 100%, 50%, 10% or 1%. That way everything is equal and when I make my trial, I’m done. And making it at 100% is the same thing. And best of all, I save 5 times the money. 💵 💰
Bingo! And in today’s economy.....saving money is a big deal!
I’m a novice too, but if you dilute materials across 100,50,10&1% down by 20%, would you not be left with an inconsistent dilution palette of materials? Excuse my math if I’m off base.
Edit- Say you buy galaxolide 50% and Ambrettolide (neat) and you dilute both to 20% strength. You would be left with-
Galaxolide (10% material, 90% solvent) and
Ambrettolide (20% material, 80% solvent)
Hope I’m able to make my point :)
@@tanayt3999 You may be misunderstanding the dilution method. You dont dilute "by" that ratio (say 20%)...you dilute the material so the material your left with in the bottle "IS" exactly 20% raw material and 80% dilutant.
So in the case of Galaxolide that you have purchased at 50% strength, you would take a separate empty bottle...and place 2g of that 50% Galaxolide in it....and then add in 3g of Ethanol alcohol. That will knock your once 50% galaxolide... down to 20%
@@tanayt3999 Yes, but the point of a 20% dilution for your trial materials is to get everything reduced evenly so when you make a trial, it is at a parfum concentration. You make it and smell it without adding anymore alcohol. Now I can make this formula WITHOUT the 20% dilution and it will be the exact same thing once I add alcohol. Does this make sense? it is just so you can (1) save money by using less materials by making trials diluted rather than 100%. (2) make smaller trials than at 100%.
@@bkscents7050 in the case of Galaxolide 50% ...it would be the same as:
(desired concentration 20%) x (desired volume ml 5) divided by the concentration of the product 50 = 2 ml of Galaxolide ... being a total of 5 ml ... 5 - 2 = 3 ml solvent ... correct?
Sorry for my terrible English ... I'm from Brazil.Thank you so much for sharing your precious knowledge with us!
Hey! I have the same question as some other people here if you had a minute for a response, or link to another video if you explain it there: How do we go from diluted trial batches (concentrations) to the final formula to fill say a 100ml bottle etc (concentrate + alcohol). If we kept the trial batch formula the exact same, by the time we dilute the concentrate to say 20% the raw materials become further much more diluted. Is that how it should be...I assume not? Thanks in advance!
To calculate the real oil concentration in a perfume composition when your materials are all pre-diluted, you need to account for the dilution factor of each material.
Most pre-diluted materials come at a specific dilution, often in solvents like Dipropylene Glycol (DPG), Triethyl Citrate (TEC), or ethanol.
Common dilutions are 10%, 20%, 30%, or 50%. For example, if your material is a 20% dilution, it means the material contains 20% essential oil and 80% solvent.
Note how much of each pre-diluted material you're using in your formula. For example, if you’re using 5 grams of a 20% diluted material, you’re only using 1 gram of the actual oil and 4 grams of solvent.
Let’s say you’re using the following pre-diluted materials in your formula:
10 grams of a 50% diluted oil (contains 5 grams of actual oil).
15 grams of a 20% diluted oil (contains 3 grams of actual oil).
5 grams of a 10% diluted oil (contains 0.5 grams of actual oil).
If the total formula weight is 100 grams, the real oil content is:
5g+3g+0.5g=8.5grams of real oil or 8,5%concentration/100grams
In perfumery it's very important to always count on grams and not on ml!
@@Dim_the_Athenian Amazing, thanks for the in-depth response! I guess in other words what i'm trying to figure out is a simple way to go from say 0.1% or 10% dilution in the mixing/testing phase to the final formula but obviously keeping all the proportions the same so that the result is the same. I thought maybe something simple like moving the decimal point over, so 10% becomes 100% (neat) and so on but that could get complicated with some % dilutions. I imagine you could just make final formulas with dilutions but thought there's an easier way of calculating the concentration and then adding the say 80% alcohol at the end...
Maybe i'm not asking this correctly and so apologize if that's the case. Still new to all this!
Another great video BK!
I had a random question, hope you don’t mind me asking - when you are making a new fragrance mix, how long do you let the perfume oil macerate before adding alcohol? I am so impatient - I only let my oil sit for a few hours before I have to add alcohol to it and test it out! I have noticed though that my perfume does change in nature over the next few days in the bottle.
Maceration time depends for me. If im just doing quick trial batches...i don't let the concentrate macerate before adding in more perfumers alcohol. I DO however let the final 'trial/test' perfume (after alcohol was added) sit for at least 24 hours before smelling and evaluating. But this is just for test/trial batches, not for the real finished product.
But once a formula is finished and no more tweaks are going to happen to it, i will make a very large batch of the concentrate with absolutely no dilutants at all in it...and let that sit for 1 week before i start using it for perfumes.
I really love watching your videos. I'm learning so much. I have a QUESTION. If I pre-dilute some of my oils in my formula with some perfumer's alcohol, will that make it more difficult for me to AGE my solution? Thank You
This is a difficult question to answer, but ill explain it the best I can.
There are 2 types of aging, Maturation & Maceration. Maturation is the aging of undiluted materials (usually blended materials to create a note/accord). Typically I like to mature my own made bases/notes/accords for at least 2weeks minimum before using them. The key take away here is that these are undiluted combined materials, like if you made your own Rose accord, or oriental amber accord. You would make up a bottle of this using raw (undiluted materials) and would want to let that sit for at least 2 weeks, ...longer is ideally better too. Some let their creations sit for 1 month or even longer.
Now to the topic of Maceration, which is letting the finished perfume sit...AFTER you have added in your ethyl alcohol to make it an EDT, EDP, parfum, concentration. This doesn't need as long in my opinion, for ive noticed only the slightest of changes after the 48 hour period. I usually let people use their finished perfumes after at least 48hours have passed when the perfume is fully created in ethyl alcohol. The first 48 hours are noticeable changes in scent, but after that it seems to be minimal.
And finally....the use of 'pre-diluted materials'. This concept is really just for trial blends and tinkering with formulations. One a formulation is to your liking and you feel it smells complete, you would then make up a brand new batch of it...but only using RAW materials (not prediluted). Do this and let that sit for 2 weeks (maturation) minimum, and than after that you can use this batch of concentrate to make many of full bottle perfumes at varying concentrations (EDT, EDP, etc) to your liking. Just let these finished perfumes sit for at least 48 hours before wearing after you added in your ethyl alcohol to make the EDT, EDP, parfum, etc
Hi, this is a great video,very informative. I would just like to know what is the strength of fragrance/ synthetic oils. Are they formulated at the same strength as the natural oils. Are they formulated at 100%,50% or 25%. Should I dilute synthetic patchouli oil, sandalwood and oud oils. I really need to know. I've diluted my synthetic oud oil to 50% and it's strong enough but I'm afraid to dilute it further because it's synthetic but I want to because of the cost. Please help me!
Hello! Thank you first of all for your videos, I learn a lot. I have a basic question: at what concentration is ethanol usually used when you already have the final blend? I guess that it depends on the concentration of perfume that I want to obtain, but someone tells me that I have to add denatured water... is that right? Thank you very much!!!
Very informative but as a beginner I myself find it confusing to work with essential oils. Therefore, I am trying to hands on first with available fragrance oils in market. For example, I bought 12 ml of a designer fragrance oil that is 100% concentrated (as claimed by the seller). I want to make a 100 ml spray perfume with it. I am thinking to use 5% galaxolide, 5% Distilled water, 08 ml fragrance oil, 16 ml DPG (15 gms) and 66 ml Ethanol. Please advise if this formulation is correct? especially the fragrance oil and DPG dilution to ease the cost. Please help.
BK! Im kind of having a fit of perfumery depression. I have ton of materials and everything I need to start but diluting, calculations, and just everything about it is so daunting and kind of overwhelming😥😫 I dont feel I have enough knowledge do achieve what id like to accomplish, which is one day being able to make beautiful fragrance that I can sell and maybe make a career out of. I took that class at perfumers apprentice but that pretty much just opened the door. Is there any advice or recommendation on where and how I can pursue this further and learn what I need to learn so I dont get so discouraged? I feel im fully capable of creating exceptional fragrance just need more guidance/direction. Thank you🙏🙏
Hi..i have just started making perfumes at my home and i am regularly watching your videos to get knowledge about perfumery. I am also using the spreadsheet which you have shared in one of your videos. Actually i am facing some difficulties in understanding the pre-dilutions. For example if i am trying to use all the materials in the pre-diluted form and trying to create a formula for the perfume then i am getting a very low concentration of the perfume raw ingredients. Now how can I increase the concentration of the raw ingredients? Because the accords which i have made at the certain dilution cannot be changed. If i will try to increase the concentration of any particular raw ingredient then it's odour strength will also get changed and so is the accord. So how can I work in this kind of situation? Sorry for the long comment..😃
Hi! Have you found the answer to this question? Cause I'm facing the same issue. Aldehydes and other chemicals are to be used pre-diluted when creating, testing and bridging the idea to the fragrance. However, when it's done, I also do not know how to transpose the aldehydes and other chemicals to the proper proportion when mixed with the neat materials in the final formula. Would it be only a matter of maths? I don't know, it confuses me.
I have a question regarding what to use for dilution: I went ahead and bought perfumer's alcohol, 1,3 propanediol and DPG. I believe DPG is best used to dilute raw materials like Ambroxan and such, my confusion lies in what should I dilute my materials such as oakmoss absolute; do I simply dilute it in perfumer's alcohol, propanediol or DPG? or is it simply up to the perfumer's decision as to where to dilute it? this is a BIG confusion I am having right now as to where to start as I have already bought a good amount of materials. Much appreciation for any help I can get. thx!
I actually use just 200 proof ethyl alcohol to dilute pretty much anything and everything. If I find the product is stubborn and won't dilute well with alcohol, I'll use DPG. But for the most part because I make strictly alcoholic perfume sprays (not candles, soaps, lotions, etc) ......I'll dilute pretty much everything with alcohol as my first choice.
@@bkscents7050 Thanks for clarifying. I'll just stock up on tons of perfumer's alcohol and dilute everything with it for now. Your videos really help!
It won't hurt to keep some DPG around just in case too....just for stubborn materials
@@bkscents7050 for sure, I already have some and will keep for that purpose. Thanks again!
if i am going to add my formula to candle wax, what should I use as a dilution agent instead ofalcohol?
I’m working with diluted materials. Often times I run into a problem where I like the overall composition but the % of its total strength is lower than I’d like it to be (9-11%). How can I rework the formula to increase overall strength?
Search for my video on the "perfume fragrance formula calculator". It has automatic calculations in it that will auto-calculate your formulas as you build it to show what it would be if the materials were at 100% raw strength...and you can go about it that way
I see some ingredients are diluted in perfumers alcohol. Some others in Dypropilene Glycol. What os the reason behind that. Do you have any preference? Why? Thank you for sharing these videos. They are really awesome!!!
Try both :) i think DPG is more sanitizing than perfumers alcohol. plus perfumers alcohole can only be used to create perfumes, not soaps etc. :D
How do you get the same smell when they are all diluted at different strength
Fantastic video! Question...I bought Castoreum Blend (50% BB) from PA...and I can't find what the BB stands and I'd like to dilute it down further to 50%. What should I use? Also, how do you determine odor strength for dilution? Just, personal preference? Thank you for the amazing content! =)
BB is Benzyl Benzoate. And determining the proper dilution level is really up to you, and the over all size of your blending trail batches. If you are making large trial blends of like 8-10g, you probably might not need to dilute. But its usually useful to pre-dilute materials when making very small trial bends of 3g or less.
@@bkscents7050 Ah, ok. Thank you! Also, because I forgot to mention this earlier...I have 15mL of Cedryl Acetate (EOA)...would you agree that DPG would be fine to dilute this material down? It's most a "wet" crystal (has a little oil in it) in the vial. I'm thinking DPG but would be interested in your opinion.
how do i dilute powder? do i just put the powder in perfumers alcohol and mix it?
Yup! Simple as that! However some powders are easier to dilute in DPG, but regular ol' ethyl alcohol works for most powders.
To be shure you dilute all this with ethanol right?
And essenssial oil need diulet and if so how much?
Thank you for your videos
Guaiacwood oil , can i dilute with dpg?
Should I dilute fragrance oil also?
hi, im newbie. just want to ask. that formula in yellow boxes, Galaxolide is stated '158'..so it will be 158 drops or what?
what is the best solvent for dilution?
It really depends on your final medium of what the product is going to be, either it being a spray fragrance, soap, candle, etc
But for alcoholic spray fragrances, i stick with just DPG or Ethyl Alcohol for pre-diluting of materials
how do you know to what percentage to dilute your material for blending to make perfume???
thanks
i don't know if this is a proper question. But if I was working with diluted material for trial, when I'm start to make the final product, how do I convert the diluted material amount back to its equivalent in raw material? for example, you are using the same amount for 2 material but one is diluted to 10% and the other is at 20%. how does that translate into just raw material
Wondering the same thing. How to go from trial batch (concentrate) to final formula (concentrate + Alcohol) but keeping everything the same.
Wondering how you're getting the cost per gram in a 30ml bottle.
Hiii...
Will it be good if i dilute using DPG???
I've got all my materials now. Diluted them all to 10%. I have noticed a few like cedarwood EO not diluting properly. The oil is sitting at the bottom of the perfume alcohol. Is that normal or will it just take a bit of time to mix?
What are you using for "perfume alcohol"? Is it 200 proof ethanol?
@@bkscents7050 Oh I have just read the description. It says the following...
"Made with a combination of alcohol denat, iso propyl myristate and monopropylene glycol, this skin friendly dilutant is the perfect perfume mixer"
I think Sam Macer has already answered my query as the EO's I used were cheap so most likely carrier oils at the bottom
If you were making a larger batch, let's say about 93grams, would you still predilute then? I was thinking about it and due to having to scale the ingredients up, wouldn't the prediluted materials make up a smaller concentration percentage than if you were to do it neat? Because the prediluted material already has alcohol, which. In that case how would you go about adding the perfumers alcohol at the end once the concentration has been made?
nah, if your trial batches are 93g, i probably wouldn't have to predilute anything. My tinkering and trial batches are wayyyy smaller than that, so prediluting is the only way i can accurately dose materials where they need to be at in a formula
@@bkscents7050 Thank You! I plan on making smaller trial batches but I wondered what would happen if I found a formula I liked and wanted to make a larger batch for it and how would diluting fit into that
If you found a formula that you like, there's no need to pre dilute your materials. Pre diluting is mostly for tinkering and trial runs to make a formula. Once a formula is finished and good to go, there's no need to remake the formula with prediluted stuff. Just use full strength because the formula is finalized
BK Scents Ah I see, that makes sense. If I can ask one final question, how long do you leave the big batch of undiluted concentration out before adding alcohol? I was looking through some forums and some people have said that they’d leave the concentration for about 6 months before adding the perfumers alcohol.
Minimum of 1 week at least I'll let it sit. Usually it's best around 2-3 weeks. But I never seen a difference after that....6 months doesn't seem to do much for me.
do you use alcohol or carrier oil to dilute essential oils or absolutes
Because I make only alcohol spray fragrances, I only use dilutants that are suitable for that application. Ethyl alcohol, DPG or IPM.
Hi I hope you owing well I’m really enjoying your lectures, can you please advice regarding ethyl alcohol do I have to use sda-40b 200 proof.
Currently I have F4 Solution, Ethanol 95PGf4 Ingredients Ethanol >95% Purified Water 2-5% t-Butanol 0.25% is this suitable to dilute the materials.
Your 95% ethanol will do just fine. Some people buy SDA40B 200 proof and add their own water to it (5%), which ends up being equal to what you have.
I see some materials are pre-diluted in DPG and others in perfumers alchol. Is there any reason? What is the best option. Would affect in some of the materials are pre-diluted in DPG?
Try both :) i think DPG is more sanitizing than perfumers alcohol. plus perfumers alcohole can only be used to create perfumes, not soaps etc. :D
So to get the formula you just
Say 1,000 base line
But how did you get parts like 45 , is that ftom the percents ?
It's based on the weight of each material added, and also percentages of a whole. If you search through my older videos, I share a perfume formula worksheet that auto calculated and does all the math for you. You just gotta type in the amounts added (grams) and the rest is done for you...
Could also buy a micropipette...
I'm new to perfumery but i dilute my materials to 10% on average the really strong ones I'll dilute to 1% or 0.1%
this is a good way to work IMO! :)
I want to lern prafume cours and start my business
I’d just love for someone to give me the formula to figure out my percentages. As in WHAT IS ____% of ____? Or ____ IS WHAT % of ____? 😩😩😩 I failed math OBVIOUSLY!!!
I have a question that may or may not be a stupid one. Your REAL formula is approx 4 grams. Your diluted formula is approx 5 grams. Since one formula already has some alcohol in it, what formula are you using to keep each FINISHED FORMULA at 20% concentration? This is where I get confused. Does the real formula get 5x its weight in alcohol to macerate and the diluted formula less?
I don't understand your question. If you use my "perfume formula worksheet" that is shown from another one of my videos....it figures all this out for you. It shows your formula both ways, with dilution and without. It also yells you how much of the raw material you are using alone, even if you are using the material pre-diluted
@@bkscents7050 The point of my question is this : If I have 2 formulas that I approve of and one has pre_diluted and one has no dilution and I wish to keep each at 20% concentration, can I assume the pre-diluted gets less alcohol to finish the perfume?
If one of the 2 formula has absolutely no prediluted materials in it, use that as your main formula. Your main formula can then be used to make any concentration (edt, edp, parfum, etc) you want.
So take your main formula, and make as much of that as you want. And make that as a batch of "concentrate" that you can grab as you wish to make perfumes with.
@@bkscents7050 I get that, but thanks. I know in advance that whatever formula I finally settle on will have some diluted materials. I'm thinking that since the majority will be full strength, I'll keep the finished product at 20% to compensate for the pre-diluted materials. If THAT proves to be a little weaker than I hoped for, I'll adjust the alcohol I add in the next version.
😂😂😂😂 resentful much, MAY IF WE CAN JUST GET HIS ATTENTION YAAAASS😂
Hello dear
Really I'm very happy to follow you.
I have question I hope you have the right answer.
What is the name of oils (aroma chemicals) do I need to make this accord
Accord odor description:
Woody , vetiver, balsamic , animal , earthy , amber , spicy , smoky , sweet , deep , complex, resinous , rich , valuable.
Please I'm waiting for your answer.
Please really I need your help.
Thank you so much.