I have his exact SRC product on my CRF and it’s awesome. And looks great too. When you hear the sticks and rocks bounce of this set up it makes me happy knowing it’s doing its job. And Tony is the most helpful bloke around. Highly recommend SRC.
I installed lower crash bars to my Rally when I first bought it. I’ve dropped it 4 times now, and zero damage. Once I dropped it so hard, the crash bars shifted over and were touching the plastic. It was an easy fix. The way they are mounted leaves you room for error. I had to Loosen the bolts on one side, and use a ratchet strap to pull on the bars to shift them over about a half inch or so, but no big deal. My crash bars also add an additional bit of protection surrounding the gear shifter. I know a guy who dropped his 300l on the pavement at a dead stop. The weight of the bike jammed the gear shifter into the motor, and he had to tear down the entire right hand side of the gear box because the bike was stuck in second gear, and that was the only way to fix it. When I lay my bike on its side the crash bars hit the ground first preventing the gear shifter from touching. A good set of Zeta hand guards paired with a set of Zeta triple tree clamps, protect the upper portion of the Rally quite well. Hand guards and an aluminum radiator guard, and I’m good to go. I’ve found multiple reasons to invest in lower crash bars on the Rally vs upper ones.
@@ShonkyProductions I just assumed you had some reason for not wanting them! Lol... I told so many people how they saved my bike, but so many people chose Outback Motortek instead. Oh well, to each their own. Also, I tried buying the SRC crash bar/skid plate combo, but at the time they were out of them. So I had to settle for some off brand, eBay crash bars, and a home made Skid plate, but surprisingly, they have held up quite well, and no broken plastics. And I have nothing against Outback Motortek, I think they make great products, but in my opinion, lower crash bars are just a better option for the CRF300 Rally.
Ok now just fit your passenger foldable pegs on them for that Harley cruising the Hwy style🤣 on a more serious note remember in the costs we always buy a baseplate anyway so the costs is actually only the bars unless of course you don't go this route off the bat. Does this engine guard allow full service without removing?
Sorry to see that! My cowls saw a bit of epoxy and screws too. I now have that same SRC setup. It is a bit heavy, but it’s forward and low. So…you can lose the plastic skid and front center piece and trim up the side center cowls before you put the SRC guards on. Losing all the plastics open up some air to the engine. I wish I could send you a photo. The low bars are wide enough that the contact will be at the low point and the bar guard. You’re fortunate to get a set…they have been out of stock for quite some time.
I have the Rally and take it off-road on single track often…meaning I drop the bike. After the second crash, basically did the same thing to my bike as yours, I decided to make a change to the faring. I know I am riding this bike as an enduro, and fully expected a future crash. I also looked at the SRC and other bars, but decided not to because it defeats the purpose of a lightweight bike. I decided to remove the lower half of the faring by cutting it. It now looks like a CRF300L but with a Rally tower and upper front faring. I replaced my Yamoto rally skid plate with their 300L skidpkate, and added Massimo frame protectors. The result is a much cleaner look and less weight due to the removal of the plastic bashplate and faring sides,but with the look of a rally on top.
My Norden Expedition has a stock bash plate that comes up about the same height over the “saddle tanks” I have dropped it several times only the bash plate and bark busters hit. Bloody fantastic design! I have never been a fan of upper crash bars but low ones like these are great. Last thing you want is to make the bike more top heavy. The irony with upper bars is by fitting them, it’s more likely you will need them.
Instead of the icypoal stick you can use those paperclip staple things that hold cardboard boxes together and melt it in with a soldering iron. Glad to see the frame isn't bent
I had a pretty bad crash on my 300L and I only lost one qucikrelease plastic nut, bent handlebar and helmet lock is twisted upside down. Rally has a lot more plastics to go wonky. Needing to protect those fairings with crashbars increases the weight even more on an already pretty heavy 300cc bike.
I honestly can't feel any difference in weight. we are talking about a 3% increase in weight and located on the bottom of the bike. On paper... Yes, it is heavier. Riding it around, you will never feel the difference.
The weight is low, and it will take a lot of pounding off the side. Barkbusters should usually protect the high side. I don't like high bars either, but if you have a lot of fairing plastic to protect, shrug. Much better, I like what he has produced. Love the mounting. Bars and skid plate, $525 cheap as chips. Brilliant design for a more than reasonable price. If I had a Rally it would be a no-brainer, first on the list after tyres or even before. Great Ozzie Product, expect to sell OS Tony. 👍👍👍 PS: Shonky liked the two finger salute✌✌.
Nice bars. I use 250 Rally lower crash bar on my 300 Rally. Those are just a bit differend but works the same. I also made small bags to the bars for rain gears and some tools.
And this ladies and gents is the exact reason I don't let ANYONE drive my bike(s) except me. No exceptions. I love my bikes too much than to risk it on other peoples skills or lack thereof. Fortunately (for me), most people don't think like me and as a result I get a lot of business for plastic welding and aluminium/TIG welding... Keep 'em coming boys, I'll gladly take your money. 🤣 I assume you were sent the bars and plate FOR FREE for the purposes of "review" and do not need to return them after testing?
this looks like it will go on the non-rally to and will strengthen some areas and help stand off not just the gear lever but that vulnerable peg mounts, i can then move my tools and tubes in a carry bag down low to
Yes, that's a great idea. you could easily mount something like the Kreiga bags on the inside of the crash bars on the CRF300L and store all your spares and tools down low as well as protecting your bike.
Probably been asked before [ as we've all watched this bike evolve ] but did you ever consider starting out with the standard 300L rather than the Rallye? To me there's a significant weight saving with that bike, and since you're going to do the suspension, soup the motor, add the fuel tank and so on anyways.....the Rallye looks cool, but it's pretty chunky too.....
I’ve got a lower set of crash bars on my 250 rally but by a different manufacturer, not as good as yours and same as you can’t notice any difference whilst riding. I’ve still incurred some damage to the plastic due to a log hitting in between the bars, bad luck. As for the gear lever a friend of mine dropped his 300 l and bent his lever back which bent the whole shaft, had to tear down engine to replace the shaft. I’ve since made tethers for my gear and rear brake levers onto the bash plate to hopefully help in a drop, could be some more shonky engineering endeavours. Btw think they look good.
Thanks Steve, as you've pointed out there is still a chance of a damage by a random rock or log, but I am a lot more confident of reducing damage to fairing and gear lever now with these bars.
Looks like a nice product and I have considered it in the past. My only concern is how do you think it will effect servicing the bike when it's time to remove plastics?
Great question. Oil and filter change can be done with bars and bash plate in place. You may have to remove the bash plate to undo the plastic fairing front middle section. But that is an easy job.
Yes, I plan to keep this bike. I am very interested in riding the new 450MT but think they are two different bikes. The 450MT will be great for more touring type adventure rides, but the CRF300 Rally excels in the harder stuff I like to ride and explore. Would make an interesting head to head video....
I am excited about the CFMOTO 450 MT as well but it's still going to be a good bit heavier than the Honda. I believe they cited a dry weight of 386 lbs (175 kg), so it will be over 400 lbs once you get fluids in it.
@@porkshank13 yes you are correct, it will still be a heavy bike compared with the CRF300. Should be a great touring bike for those wanting a lighter option to the larger twins.
Hi Shonky, now that the lower crash bars are installed, have you laid the bike over to see where all of the contact points are? Does the upper fairing make contact with the ground?
As I look to possibly purchase this bike, I saw a new muffler put on & saw the guy pulling off plastic's that looked weak as if they'd break easily? Seems it doesn't take a whole lot? I actually asked someone else IF they think it might be wise upon buying this bike new = that you pull all the plastics, wrap em' up & store then, then buying a set of plastics to use in everyday use? I've seen this on more expensive Plastic's but I couldn't help but wonder if that might be wise on this bike as well? I'm gonna watch this & perhaps you can tell me your thoughts on what I'm asking? I don't own a bike but I like this Rally version & saw she's got a lot of plastic stuff w/ plastic clips - looked weak to me but you'd know more, I can see you are dealing w/ my fears..... thanks man, peace
Don't worry too much about it. Put some lower crash bars on and just enjoy it. Dirt bikes get dropped and scratched, it's no big deal. The plastics hold up pretty well. I've been abusing mine for a few years and except for that big crash, they have held up well.
You were very kool w/ your friend after that & why not, plastics can be replaced a lot easier than friends. I also have lots of video on how to repair broken plastic although I don't have a bike... still looking for one. peace
I noticed you've removed front sprocket cover, was it because of all the mud that gunked it up? PS I have the same SRC setup but I bought it directly from Thailand for much cheaper (most of SRC stuff is made in Thailand)
I tried sharing a video with you where a guy jammed his 300l into gear by laying it down, but this platform has been deleting some of my comments, I guess when I mention other creators.., Frustrating...
@@ShonkyProductions that’s good 👍, not sure why you just don’t cut the lower fairings off ( like others have done ✅) I haven’t yet , as I haven’t trashed then enough yet 😂😂😂, plus engine will run cooler .
@@itsallabouttheridekeepingi4449 as I ride on the highway often, I like the wind and weather protection that the lower fairing provides for your legs. Plus I think it looks good.
Why do they cover our bikes with plastic thats not needed. Get the pull ties out and a good soldiering iron and get melting the pull ties to plastic weld the unwanted plastic crap that isnt needed. Remember the days when you had a seat tank and engine on display with tiny plastic battery air filter covers. Bring those days back.
I have his exact SRC product on my CRF and it’s awesome. And looks great too. When you hear the sticks and rocks bounce of this set up it makes me happy knowing it’s doing its job. And Tony is the most helpful bloke around. Highly recommend SRC.
Great to know, thanks 👍
I installed lower crash bars to my Rally when I first bought it. I’ve dropped it 4 times now, and zero damage.
Once I dropped it so hard, the crash bars shifted over and were touching the plastic. It was an easy fix. The way they are mounted leaves you room for error. I had to Loosen the bolts on one side, and use a ratchet strap to pull on the bars to shift them over about a half inch or so, but no big deal.
My crash bars also add an additional bit of protection surrounding the gear shifter.
I know a guy who dropped his 300l on the pavement at a dead stop. The weight of the bike jammed the gear shifter into the motor, and he had to tear down the entire right hand side of the gear box because the bike was stuck in second gear, and that was the only way to fix it.
When I lay my bike on its side the crash bars hit the ground first preventing the gear shifter from touching.
A good set of Zeta hand guards paired with a set of Zeta triple tree clamps, protect the upper portion of the Rally quite well. Hand guards and an aluminum radiator guard, and I’m good to go. I’ve found multiple reasons to invest in lower crash bars on the Rally vs upper ones.
It's great to hear that your crash bars have saved you from damage. You're obviously smarter than me because you put them on from new!
@@ShonkyProductions I just assumed you had some reason for not wanting them! Lol...
I told so many people how they saved my bike, but so many people chose Outback Motortek instead. Oh well, to each their own. Also, I tried buying the SRC crash bar/skid plate combo, but at the time they were out of them. So I had to settle for some off brand, eBay crash bars, and a home made Skid plate, but surprisingly, they have held up quite well, and no broken plastics.
And I have nothing against Outback Motortek, I think they make great products, but in my opinion, lower crash bars are just a better option for the CRF300 Rally.
Ok now just fit your passenger foldable pegs on them for that Harley cruising the Hwy style🤣 on a more serious note remember in the costs we always buy a baseplate anyway so the costs is actually only the bars unless of course you don't go this route off the bat. Does this engine guard allow full service without removing?
@@Galvoflysoz good point with the bash plate cost. YES, you can still drop the sump bolt and drain the oil with the SRC bask plate installed.
@@airadaimagery692 I agree with you 100% there. Lower crash bars will protect the CRF300 Rally just fine.
Nice one! Thanks for sharing your experience with it!
My pleasure. Hopefully I'll help someone make the crash bar decision before they crash... Unlike me.
Thanks for the video; I'm getting this for my rally.
Sorry to see that! My cowls saw a bit of epoxy and screws too. I now have that same SRC setup. It is a bit heavy, but it’s forward and low. So…you can lose the plastic skid and front center piece and trim up the side center cowls before you put the SRC guards on. Losing all the plastics open up some air to the engine. I wish I could send you a photo. The low bars are wide enough that the contact will be at the low point and the bar guard. You’re fortunate to get a set…they have been out of stock for quite some time.
Looks great 👍 I have used the biker bitz crash bars cheaper but they do bend in a crash 💥
I have the Rally and take it off-road on single track often…meaning I drop the bike. After the second crash, basically did the same thing to my bike as yours, I decided to make a change to the faring. I know I am riding this bike as an enduro, and fully expected a future crash. I also looked at the SRC and other bars, but decided not to because it defeats the purpose of a lightweight bike. I decided to remove the lower half of the faring by cutting it. It now looks like a CRF300L but with a Rally tower and upper front faring. I replaced my Yamoto rally skid plate with their 300L skidpkate, and added Massimo frame protectors. The result is a much cleaner look and less weight due to the removal of the plastic bashplate and faring sides,but with the look of a rally on top.
Sounds like another great solution. I ride on the highway quite a bit, so I appreciate the wind and weather protection of the fairing.
You did a great job on the repair and the bars look good too.
My Norden Expedition has a stock bash plate that comes up about the same height over the “saddle tanks” I have dropped it several times only the bash plate and bark busters hit. Bloody fantastic design!
I have never been a fan of upper crash bars but low ones like these are great.
Last thing you want is to make the bike more top heavy. The irony with upper bars is by fitting them, it’s more likely you will need them.
Good point about weight distribution.
Thanks for sharing your crash bar experiences 👍
Instead of the icypoal stick you can use those paperclip staple things that hold cardboard boxes together and melt it in with a soldering iron.
Glad to see the frame isn't bent
Superglue and fag Ash is as good as epoxy resins
I had a pretty bad crash on my 300L and I only lost one qucikrelease plastic nut, bent handlebar and helmet lock is twisted upside down.
Rally has a lot more plastics to go wonky. Needing to protect those fairings with crashbars increases the weight even more on an already pretty heavy 300cc bike.
I honestly can't feel any difference in weight. we are talking about a 3% increase in weight and located on the bottom of the bike. On paper... Yes, it is heavier. Riding it around, you will never feel the difference.
Happy for you to have had a good outcome in the end. Nice bit of Shonky engineering 👌
Greetings,
As always another brilliant shonky production 🇺🇸🎉🍾🇺🇸
Keep producing more videos about crf
The weight is low, and it will take a lot of pounding off the side. Barkbusters should usually protect the high side. I don't like high bars either, but if you have a lot of fairing plastic to protect, shrug.
Much better, I like what he has produced. Love the mounting.
Bars and skid plate, $525 cheap as chips. Brilliant design for a more than reasonable price. If I had a Rally it would be a no-brainer, first on the list after tyres or even before.
Great Ozzie Product, expect to sell OS Tony. 👍👍👍
PS: Shonky liked the two finger salute✌✌.
Thanks 👍
Nice bars. I use 250 Rally lower crash bar on my 300 Rally. Those are just a bit differend but works the same. I also made small bags to the bars for rain gears and some tools.
Great idea!
And this ladies and gents is the exact reason I don't let ANYONE drive my bike(s) except me. No exceptions. I love my bikes too much than to risk it on other peoples skills or lack thereof.
Fortunately (for me), most people don't think like me and as a result I get a lot of business for plastic welding and aluminium/TIG welding... Keep 'em coming boys, I'll gladly take your money. 🤣
I assume you were sent the bars and plate FOR FREE for the purposes of "review" and do not need to return them after testing?
this looks like it will go on the non-rally to and will strengthen some areas and help stand off not just the gear lever but that vulnerable peg mounts, i can then move my tools and tubes in a carry bag down low to
Yes, that's a great idea. you could easily mount something like the Kreiga bags on the inside of the crash bars on the CRF300L and store all your spares and tools down low as well as protecting your bike.
I have T-Rex crash bars on my Rally. proved their worth last weekend.
To glue plastic use baking soda and super glue it is stronger than the original. Plenty of vids on using it.
Thanks, I did use baking soda and glue on some of the joints.
I've done the same on the left side a couple of weeks ago. What glue did you use please? Love the bottle top.
I hate crash bars to be honest.
Probably been asked before [ as we've all watched this bike evolve ] but did you ever consider starting out with the standard 300L rather than the Rallye? To me there's a significant weight saving with that bike, and since you're going to do the suspension, soup the motor, add the fuel tank and so on anyways.....the Rallye looks cool, but it's pretty chunky too.....
I’ve got a lower set of crash bars on my 250 rally but by a different manufacturer, not as good as yours and same as you can’t notice any difference whilst riding. I’ve still incurred some damage to the plastic due to a log hitting in between the bars, bad luck. As for the gear lever a friend of mine dropped his 300 l and bent his lever back which bent the whole shaft, had to tear down engine to replace the shaft. I’ve since made tethers for my gear and rear brake levers onto the bash plate to hopefully help in a drop, could be some more shonky engineering endeavours. Btw think they look good.
Thanks Steve, as you've pointed out there is still a chance of a damage by a random rock or log, but I am a lot more confident of reducing damage to fairing and gear lever now with these bars.
Looks like a nice product and I have considered it in the past. My only concern is how do you think it will effect servicing the bike when it's time to remove plastics?
Great question. Oil and filter change can be done with bars and bash plate in place. You may have to remove the bash plate to undo the plastic fairing front middle section. But that is an easy job.
Do you think you will bother modifying / keeping this bike when the CF Moto 450 MT comes out in a couple of months?
Yes, I plan to keep this bike. I am very interested in riding the new 450MT but think they are two different bikes. The 450MT will be great for more touring type adventure rides, but the CRF300 Rally excels in the harder stuff I like to ride and explore.
Would make an interesting head to head video....
I am excited about the CFMOTO 450 MT as well but it's still going to be a good bit heavier than the Honda. I believe they cited a dry weight of 386 lbs (175 kg), so it will be over 400 lbs once you get fluids in it.
@@porkshank13 yes you are correct, it will still be a heavy bike compared with the CRF300. Should be a great touring bike for those wanting a lighter option to the larger twins.
Hi Shonky, now that the lower crash bars are installed, have you laid the bike over to see where all of the contact points are? Does the upper fairing make contact with the ground?
I haven't crash tested it yet, but I am going out for some hard trails this weekend...
@@ShonkyProductions, thanks for the quick reply. I really like the look of these bars and I think I'll get a set for my Rally.
Hey bro Shonky what are those black leg grips you got on there ?
They are Shonky "Step Pegz" I made them out of door stoppers from by local hardware store and bolted them straight through the plastic panel.
As I look to possibly purchase this bike, I saw a new muffler put on & saw the guy pulling off plastic's that looked weak as if they'd
break easily? Seems it doesn't take a whole lot? I actually asked someone else IF they think it might be wise upon buying this bike
new = that you pull all the plastics, wrap em' up & store then, then buying a set of plastics to use in everyday use? I've seen this on
more expensive Plastic's but I couldn't help but wonder if that might be wise on this bike as well? I'm gonna watch this & perhaps
you can tell me your thoughts on what I'm asking? I don't own a bike but I like this Rally version & saw she's got a lot of plastic
stuff w/ plastic clips - looked weak to me but you'd know more, I can see you are dealing w/ my fears..... thanks man, peace
Don't worry too much about it. Put some lower crash bars on and just enjoy it. Dirt bikes get dropped and scratched, it's no big deal. The plastics hold up pretty well. I've been abusing mine for a few years and except for that big crash, they have held up well.
You were very kool w/ your friend after that & why not, plastics can be replaced a lot easier than friends. I also have
lots of video on how to repair broken plastic although I don't have a bike... still looking for one. peace
@@diggy-d8w I'll have to check out you videos. thanks.
I don't make them but I thank you just the same.... peace
I noticed you've removed front sprocket cover, was it because of all the mud that gunked it up?
PS I have the same SRC setup but I bought it directly from Thailand for much cheaper (most of SRC stuff is made in Thailand)
Yes, good spotting. I never run a front sprocket cover on any of my bikes for that reason. When mud gets stuck in there it accelerates chain wear.
That's a really good tip, cheers.
I tried to buy from Thailand but it was going to cost more with postage
Yes they don't make them for the 250, oh well I'll have to stick with duct tape and cable ties😂
They should fit the CRF250 as it's the same engine with the same engine mounting points.
Thanks Shonky. Edit: checked with src and won't fit due to different frames between 250 and 300.
@@sausagesandwichSA ohhh... That's a surprise to me. the frames are different in the subframe, but I doubt in the main frame. I'll do some research.
I think the extra weight will be well worth it....
Hope Jeff paid for the glue
Haha... I'll send him the bill!
I tried sharing a video with you where a guy jammed his 300l into gear by laying it down, but this platform has been deleting some of my comments, I guess when I mention other creators.., Frustrating...
Oh, that's is frustrating.
#1 rule of preventing it from happening again... don't loan out your bike!
😁🤣
I hope your mate offered to pay for the damages , my mates would .
Yes, he did. He may still pay to replace my screen. The fairing panels are fixed enough for me to be happy.
@@ShonkyProductions How much would new fairing panels cost? The $850 can not be for the two side panels alone?
@@ShonkyProductions that’s good 👍, not sure why you just don’t cut the lower fairings off ( like others have done ✅) I haven’t yet , as I haven’t trashed then enough yet 😂😂😂, plus engine will run cooler .
@@itsallabouttheridekeepingi4449 as I ride on the highway often, I like the wind and weather protection that the lower fairing provides for your legs. Plus I think it looks good.
@@ShonkyProductions ok I get the weather protection thing , but not the bling 😂👍
Why do they cover our bikes with plastic thats not needed. Get the pull ties out and a good soldiering iron and get melting the pull ties to plastic weld the unwanted plastic crap that isnt needed. Remember the days when you had a seat tank and engine on display with tiny plastic battery air filter covers. Bring those days back.
Don't let your mates ride it haha simples
If they do send them the damage bill
Haha... no you tell me!