@@SkillBuilder You would be always welcome here mate. I must warn you. It is not a vacation theme place that you see on internet. This is a third world country. Of course, the Himalaya and many parts of Nepal is gorgeous. But most of us do not live in the foothills of Himalaya to serve the white man. This is a false concept of Nepal. Most of us live in small villages. We don't have health care, good educational facility, good medical facility or a good governance. Like most poor countries, our government is extremely corrupt. Just to give you an idea. Each everest climber has to pay $20,000 USD tax to Nepalese government. Millions of dollars pour in every year. Do you think there has been any improvement in our lives in the last few decades? Only a small portion of rich people just got richer. When we compare ourselves with our neighbor Bangladesh, we get so frustrated. I'm sure they have corrupt government too. But in just two decades they have gone from 0 to 100. They are no European state, but they have massively improved women's health, children education, neo natal death, education for poor, healthcare, internet access and now during COVID... a massive vaccination. They refuse to take loans from IMF anymore. We have Himalayas and we are drowned in debt, corruption and being slave of whitemen for generations. So you have to forgive us when we are so frustrated by white man's romantic view of Nepal. I know you mean well mate. A talented person like you will be always welcome to our homes. Of course. A warm tea will be waiting for you. Take care.
Great video and much appreciated, were you guys thinking of filming something on installing an RSJ along these lines? Obviously the structural issues have been covered a lot by various people on UA-cam but issues like getting the DPC and details right is where this channel really shines.
Nothing wrong there mate. Only thing I would say is put a course of brickwork on the lintel first and then your DPC so you don't create a slip joint. Also once you are over the lintel put your first row of ties in so you can support your insulation. Cheers
Good video roger. I have an old style concrete lintel above my doors and windows, as a painted feature if you like. But the one above my front door (sliding PVC porch door) has cracked badly but NO ONE on youtube has made a video showing how to replace one of these so maybe thats a video you could do? your videos are always well made and nice and concise so it would be great to hear/see your version on replacing one of these older style concrete lintels.
That would be brilliant Roger. I'm sure you would get some good views on it too since there's basically no one out there with a video of it! I look forward to it
Hi Roger, just watched your video. can you tell me the problems associated with a lintel that is not fitted properly. for example not level and not bedded in. i await your reply .
How would you load a lintel when it’s punched into an existing wall at right angle please, I.e. a door that opens at 90 degrees to the existing wall, side entry to an extension next to wall? Also it wouldn’t get the 150mm throw through or it would bridge the existing cavity? Cheers if you could advise.
hi there you really need to keep the bed under the lintel to an absolute minimum !. If you put a 10 mm bed under the lintel, then the 3mm thickness of the flange , then five mm bed under the soldiers or stretchers above the lintel, you end up with a 18mm thick bed joint on the pillars. obviously even on the sites this isnt acceptable
You have missed the most standard procedure when install a steel lintel is thermal expansion between steel lintel to brickwork it will crack if you don't leave a expansion gap and you missed Weep Vents create weep holes which are required over steel lintels to discharge collected water that may form at the window/door head. Each vent sits in the masonry perp end. Weep vents are positioned within the perp joints between masonry. Their function is two-fold: They act as a weep to discharge water from DPCs, cavity trays and lintels. They also act as ventilators to encourage the cavity to breathe Weep-vents also satisfy UK NHBC and Building Regulation requirements. Vents are required at 450mm intervals and each opening should have at least 2 weep holes.
Good point and we have a video on fitting a lintel. Out soon but the expansion on an average lintel is not that great and they slip under the bricks. If the lintel is close to a gable end with no weight on the brickwork I would mastic it. Cavities don't need to breathe they need to be air tight. Even sealed there will be plenty of air moving around on a windy day.
Yes that will be fine, often there is as little as 100mm. It will lead to cracked brickwork in some situations but there are thousands, maybe millions that are ok.
@SkillBuilder it's a cavity wall on the gable end of the garage. There is only the roof above. I trusted the builders and ended up with this. I thought they would know 150 mm overhang on both end is the rule.
Hi, thanks for uploading this! Just in time as we're fitting 50 or so of these in the next few weeks. How far past the window and door reveals should the flanges go? Would 10mm be ok? Thanks
Brad Kew we normally try to set them about 5 to 10mm back from face of brickwork....so for example if it was a standard CB90 going onto a 300mm wide wall the lintel is 290mm wide 100mm for internal 100mm for external and 90mm for cavity that way with it being 10mm shy of 300 which is your overall wall width it wont stick out front and back. General rule of thumb is set lintel equal from front and back of wall that way brickwork and blockwork fit on. Normally window fits about an inch back from reveals so it always works out fine hope that helps.
Well there are many bricklayers out there and not all of them know all ten of these points so if they pick up one bit of information that is good. Be honest, how many lintels do you see laid with no dpc. I would say most of them and most are done by professionals.
I really appreciate these videos. I am mechanical engineer, not a builder and you can only read so much info. My Dad is the builder but at least I can do some prep before the next part of my extension build - thank you!
Excellent video and advice as always! Keep up the good work!
Thank you mate. Love from Nepal.
Wow! I have always wanted to go there.
@@SkillBuilder You would be always welcome here mate. I must warn you. It is not a vacation theme place that you see on internet. This is a third world country. Of course, the Himalaya and many parts of Nepal is gorgeous. But most of us do not live in the foothills of Himalaya to serve the white man. This is a false concept of Nepal.
Most of us live in small villages. We don't have health care, good educational facility, good medical facility or a good governance. Like most poor countries, our government is extremely corrupt. Just to give you an idea. Each everest climber has to pay $20,000 USD tax to Nepalese government. Millions of dollars pour in every year. Do you think there has been any improvement in our lives in the last few decades? Only a small portion of rich people just got richer.
When we compare ourselves with our neighbor Bangladesh, we get so frustrated. I'm sure they have corrupt government too. But in just two decades they have gone from 0 to 100. They are no European state, but they have massively improved women's health, children education, neo natal death, education for poor, healthcare, internet access and now during COVID... a massive vaccination. They refuse to take loans from IMF anymore. We have Himalayas and we are drowned in debt, corruption and being slave of whitemen for generations.
So you have to forgive us when we are so frustrated by white man's romantic view of Nepal.
I know you mean well mate. A talented person like you will be always welcome to our homes. Of course. A warm tea will be waiting for you. Take care.
Great video and much appreciated, were you guys thinking of filming something on installing an RSJ along these lines? Obviously the structural issues have been covered a lot by various people on UA-cam but issues like getting the DPC and details right is where this channel really shines.
Thanks Roger - want to come build my extension in sussex!! Very useful to learn what potential contractors should be doing
Nothing wrong there mate. Only thing I would say is put a course of brickwork on the lintel first and then your DPC so you don't create a slip joint. Also once you are over the lintel put your first row of ties in so you can support your insulation. Cheers
Good video roger. I have an old style concrete lintel above my doors and windows, as a painted feature if you like. But the one above my front door (sliding PVC porch door) has cracked badly but NO ONE on youtube has made a video showing how to replace one of these so maybe thats a video you could do? your videos are always well made and nice and concise so it would be great to hear/see your version on replacing one of these older style concrete lintels.
I have replaced quite a number over the years so we will put that on the list.
That would be brilliant Roger. I'm sure you would get some good views on it too since there's basically no one out there with a video of it! I look forward to it
Thought he was a plumber, was always in the plumb center magazines. Jack of all trades lol
Thank you very much
Great info. Thanks
Any chance to see soething about electrics, wiring etc?
Cheers
Hi Roger, just watched your video. can you tell me the problems associated with a lintel that is not fitted properly. for example not level and not bedded in. i await your reply .
How would you load a lintel when it’s punched into an existing wall at right angle please, I.e. a door that opens at 90 degrees to the existing wall, side entry to an extension next to wall? Also it wouldn’t get the 150mm throw through or it would bridge the existing cavity? Cheers if you could advise.
Thanks, Roger for your many videos. When you cut out brickwork for a new window or door is a cavity tray a must via the building regs.?????
Won't the gap between the bricks be too much if you bed the lintel first and then add more concrete ontop to bed the brick?
hi there
you really need to keep the bed under the lintel to an absolute minimum !. If you put a 10 mm bed under the lintel, then the 3mm thickness of the flange , then five mm bed under the soldiers or stretchers above the lintel, you end up with a 18mm thick bed joint on the pillars. obviously even on the sites this isnt acceptable
hiya whats the best lintel for like 4 metre bi folding doors ?? can still use normal cavity wall lintels
If you send Keystone your drawing they will specify the right lintel and do the structural calcs.
thanks
You have missed the most standard procedure when install a steel lintel is thermal expansion between steel lintel to brickwork it will crack if you don't leave a expansion gap and you missed Weep Vents create weep holes which are required over steel lintels to discharge collected water that may form at the window/door head. Each vent sits in the masonry perp end.
Weep vents are positioned within the perp joints between masonry. Their function is two-fold:
They act as a weep to discharge water from DPCs, cavity trays and lintels.
They also act as ventilators to encourage the cavity to breathe
Weep-vents also satisfy UK NHBC and Building Regulation requirements.
Vents are required at 450mm intervals and each opening
should have at least 2 weep holes.
Good point and we have a video on fitting a lintel. Out soon but the expansion on an average lintel is not that great and they slip under the bricks. If the lintel is close to a gable end with no weight on the brickwork I would mastic it. Cavities don't need to breathe they need to be air tight. Even sealed there will be plenty of air moving around on a windy day.
My lintel is only overhanging 120mm/130mm on both sides. The window cavity is 650mm. Is this okay?
Yes that will be fine, often there is as little as 100mm. It will lead to cracked brickwork in some situations but there are thousands, maybe millions that are ok.
@SkillBuilder it's a cavity wall on the gable end of the garage. There is only the roof above. I trusted the builders and ended up with this. I thought they would know 150 mm overhang on both end is the rule.
Hi, thanks for uploading this! Just in time as we're fitting 50 or so of these in the next few weeks.
How far past the window and door reveals should the flanges go? Would 10mm be ok? Thanks
Brad Kew we normally try to set them about 5 to 10mm back from face of brickwork....so for example if it was a standard CB90 going onto a 300mm wide wall the lintel is 290mm wide 100mm for internal 100mm for external and 90mm for cavity that way with it being 10mm shy of 300 which is your overall wall width it wont stick out front and back. General rule of thumb is set lintel equal from front and back of wall that way brickwork and blockwork fit on. Normally window fits about an inch back from reveals so it always works out fine hope that helps.
C Jackson yeah that's brilliant thanks for the answer
If a bricklayer needs to watch things like this for information you should ask are you really a qualified tradesman or just a pub chancer???
Well there are many bricklayers out there and not all of them know all ten of these points so if they pick up one bit of information that is good. Be honest, how many lintels do you see laid with no dpc. I would say most of them and most are done by professionals.
I really appreciate these videos. I am mechanical engineer, not a builder and you can only read so much info. My Dad is the builder but at least I can do some prep before the next part of my extension build - thank you!