I use the magnet trick as well but instead of just rubbing the magnet on the wall surface I put a piece of greaseproof paper between it and the wall to avoid marking the wall. I HATE PAINTING. Love your videos - practical and great presentation.
This is peak Proper DIY, great quality content, a little humour, top tips, relevant safety advice all resulting in a great end result that enables others to feel confident attempting the same project ! Cheers, Stuart !
Pro trick: Turn of the power at the breaker when ever working on a wall with power sockets in it. Remove the double socket cover and you can see if the feed cables go up, down and regrettably sometimes left or right.
That doesn't say anything really. In fact, whenever I put a socket or a switch in a hollow wall, I bring the cables in the box from the opposite side of where they are coming from so there's a little loop of extra cable in the wall without it running all too sloppy. Why? If for whatever reason the cable in the box needs to be cut back because of damage, and that leaves me with less slack that I'm comfortable with in the box, I can take out the box and flip it around to pull that extra bit of wiring through without having to find some extra length to push/pull through further along the way, moving the box up/down, making a connection, or replacing the entire length of cabling.
Excellent work sir. We’ve come a long way with the art of fitting doors , thanks to the development of power tools . Harkening back to when I started work back in the late 60s , it was a regular sight to see a joiner fit a door with the add of a hand axe. Only doing the final fitting with a hand plane . I’d don’t know it makes me sounds like I was born in the Victorian era . 😂. Kind regards as always 👍
Enjoyed the way Stuart can do these projects so elegantly. I would have smashed out the entire wall of sheetrock. I do have some vintage solid oak doors I am going to be hanging. I'll need to create new door frames because the old frames are flimsy mahogany veneer. The doors weigh a good 40 lbs. In the US they do not sell separate door frames or linings. So I will have to make my own. I have done this once before and did an ok job. My prior experience was hanging doors on my chicken coop. ugh those doors were hung very amateur. I learned a lot doing that. The chickens didn't comment.
Hi Stuart another great video, I was told by a joiner, put three parts of the barrel of the hinge on the frame and the two on the door to help stop squeaking later on, keep up the good work, G.
Stuart, your video's are top notch and perfectly edited with clear and thorough explanation of what you're doing, they're excellent for learning from with truly trustworthy content. Well done sire.
I like to sit the (cut-down) door into the lining gap (shimming it to position) and mark BOTH door and lining for hinges at the same time to ensure they line up a 100% . I also use a small cordless router and a homemade template to rout out the hinge pockets... it makes it really easy especially for the lining pockets... and even better if you have multiple doors to hang, I have 10 of 'em to hang here... 😕 Great vid as always, mate !... 😎👍☘️🍻
Routing those hinges rebates without a jig. Skilz Stuart! Great video. ❤ Only extra tip would be to place the fixing screws so they are covered by the door stops.
Morning Stuart At 16:24, I observed that you had used some temporary blocks to prevent the door from falling while levelling it in the frame. It would be helpful to mention this step to your viewers so that they don't overlook it and end up with the door falling out of the frame, damaging either the door or nearby furniture.
Thanks for making this video. Im leaning towards buying a used door, non pre-hung, for a room that im framing in my basement in order to save money. Ive learned some things in here that will definitely be of help. Respect from Wisconsin, USA
Great video. I've had to move a door and followed a very similar approach, retaining the door rather than salvaging the lining and trying to patch and fill. Cheers. K.
Thanks stuart but a bit dissapointed. Normally your videos are so very detailed and step by step, i feel this video was a bit rushed and you missed a good bit ie. the electrical sockets relocation, the door jams install and the architrave installation. We all love your videos and happy to wait so no need to rush, big fan :)
Excellent video as always! 👍 Your detector get crazy for one reason - it picked up static discharge from sliding it near surface.. Some wall materials do that.. To avoid this, hold detector with one hand, but other hands palm You need to put on wall under test, usually, it will be 5-50cm from detector in that test zone.. Try not to lift hand from wall..
Great job as always, I have a recommendation for you. When using a router for door hinges, the job can be made easier with a trend corner chisel. I bought one a while back, so good😊
This is really interesting, loads of info ,I feel like I could tackle this project after watching this , a part 2 would be nice, see the finished product.
I believe the bosch wall scanner takes you to touch the wall with your other hand as it uses your hand touching the tool as well in its capacitance sensor. And, your tool* could also be knackered as well.
This video came at just the right time - moving my bedroom door is my next project, I now have a good idea of what I need to do and in what order things need doing 👍🏻👍🏻 Only thing I'd do differently would have been to take the faceplate off of the patress box to see where the cables ran.
Stuart, to make life easier why not custom make your own door lining to the size of the door plus a few extra mm so you don't need to trim the door. I believe, and please correct me if I'm wrong, that in a lot of new builds the doors/linings come ready assembled to fit into the opening so no trimming. Great video as always. Keep 'em coming!
You're not wrong about new builds, if the architect has specified 'cassette' doors, the doors will come complete, closed and slot in the opening. Initially fitting with tabs into the wall face and hidden by the architrave. Each hinge has an adjustment screw that allows you to get the hinges to swing properly and maintain a consistent gap. I've 10 in my 5-year-old house, and they're a bugger to match when you have to put a new door in. The only benefit is that factory hinges have curved corners so you can do the whole hinge with the router and a template.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop There's a Robin Clevett video where he fits the doors without trimming into the pre made mdf linings. I think it was on a refurb property (not his Big Build) where he slotted them into existing openings and shimmed/packed accordingly.
I know this video was about making the door opening but it would have been nice to detail what you did with the wiring for the socket that was in the way thank you
Great to watch someone take their time, do templates first etc, but the reality is most builders or Chippys nowadays are cutting corners and looking to the next job.
Been watching your videos for some time now, just subscribed and as others have mentioned great timing, this week I will mainly be building a doorway into an existing wall 😊😊😊
As an ex joiner, when I was an apprentice I use to pencil a hatch sign on the side of the door where I wanted the ball of the hinge. That way I made sure I didn’t cut out for the hinges on the wrong side.
Muchas muchas gracias por compartir la experiencia, excelente video de como colocar una nueva puerta, (y como hacer el hueco para ella), limpio, a velocidad máster, sin prisas, y disfrutando el trabajo, soy también un joven adulto que ama la carpintería...felicidades!!!, recibe saludos desde Aguascalientes México...😉👍
I have that scanner, I find if I hold the scanner in one hand, and put my other hand on the wall (anywhere), then I get much more reliable readings. It's almost as if grounding the wall through me, allows the scanner to operate better.
Very good well explained video. Btw, once the lining is fully installed including the architrave etc it is no longer a door lining, it is then a door frame. A bit like an ugly duckling becomes a swan.
A length of bathplug chain with a magnet on works great. Swing the magnet back wards and forwards along the wall face. When the magnet sticks to the screw let the chain fall from your hand and this will indicate a plumb line which should be the center of your stud.
10:06 probably worth a mention that those black bugle head screws are necessary if you don't want rust marks on the finish plaster. They are expensive for a massive box but necessary.
Thanks Stuart - great idea for a vid and well explained as usual. Door looks fantastic and I liked the ‘hello!’ moment. 🙂Any chance you could show us how to seal it all back up again as we need to see how to do that for a project we have in mind (only joking - but not joking). 👍
I use the trend hinge jig, so much quicker. Put the markers where you want the hinges, router them out then transfer the jig to the frame and the markers are in the same place for you to hang the door. It’s just so much easier.
7:17 Hellow! 😊 Perfect timing - I want to make two back-to-back bathrooms into one bathroom. Now I know how to cut the wall between the two, and refinish it so no one will ever know! To get started, I need to remove some cabinets (I think they are going to another room - there won’t be room for them in the bathroom after we do what we’re trying to accomplish), permanently remove two sinks, permanently remove one toilet, permanently remove a tub/shower unit, add in a roll-in shower, add a pedestal sink and poof! A much safer setup for my wife!
Good video Stuart. Where did the socket go? I did a similar job on breeze block wall to put in a fire door from our kitchen into our attached garage. Made my own door lining out of 22mm thick MDF because std door linings were not deep enough. I put a lintel in as well as intumescent sealing stripping around the door. For someone who's only a DIYer it turned out OK. At some point I've got a loft hatch to enlarge, a utility room at the back of our garage to create & a raised floor in our loft with extra insulation to do. The list seems to get longer longer every year! 🪛🛠
I have got to change a load of doors for oak ones. A few of the frames need changing as well. I got a cheapo damaged door from Wickes, it was £20 because of the damage. It is a crappy door but it is perfectly sized and square so I am using it as a template for frames and hinges etc.
Hi, I like your videos a lot. I am looking at making some plantation shutters in the near future. A video on this would be good, especially where to source the materials from.
Great Video - some super tips as always. However, I'm sure I saw in a video somewhere on UA-cam that when screwing plasterboard to studs you shouldn't screw so tight you rip through the paper covering because that massively weakens the fix. Am I remembering that correctly?
In Australia it's a door frame, the studs would be at 450mm or 600mm centres and the door would probably be hung on two hinges not three. I have no idea why your internal wall is insulated. That sort of insulation does nothing for sound transmission and I don't imagine that thermal insulation is required between two internal rooms. Good workmanship though. Good video but we didn't see the power outlet and its wiring being relocated.
uk building industry is one of a kind. The manufacturer just makes 3 simple pieces of wood and you need to cut everything by yourself. Why not to go to the forest and start with cutting the tree? In Europe, the frame comes pre-cut and even pre-drilled for all required mounts, handles and other accessories, as its so much easier to do this in the factory. You can even buy frames with integrated skirting adjustable to the wall thickness. It usually takes 10 minutes to install such frames
you should think about getting the milwaukee m18 fuel multitool.. that and a shop vac, you could get done in less then an hour you should do a review on it
Great video Stuart! Sometimes you see the "middle" hinge placed much closer to the top hinge than than the middle. Why? is that better for heavy doors?
5:13 If the detector goes crazy the wall is probably staticaly charged. Easy fix: put your free hand on the wall! If the alarm sound goes stumm then it's a false positive. And it's recomended to make three passes on area in question...
That video is ok for a partition wall but you should emphasize if it is a load bearing wall that framing method isn't correct. That should be investigated before cutting out any studs . You would need a header of proper size for the door opening to carry the load of the stud(s) removed. The magnet trick is very useful as you state.
There should be a video like this every Sunday. Its almost a part of weekly life now watching DIY on a Sunday morning
I couldn't agree more. 👍
D&j projects post their videos on Sunday's at 12 and Wednesday's
I used to watch this old house on Sunday, this will be a nice substitute/ addition
Lol, it's Sunday today!!
This bloke is great. Really good stuff. Doing a great service for UK DIYers
I use the magnet trick as well but instead of just rubbing the magnet on the wall surface I put a piece of greaseproof paper between it and the wall to avoid marking the wall. I HATE PAINTING.
Love your videos - practical and great presentation.
This is peak Proper DIY, great quality content, a little humour, top tips, relevant safety advice all resulting in a great end result that enables others to feel confident attempting the same project !
Cheers, Stuart !
Pro trick: Turn of the power at the breaker when ever working on a wall with power sockets in it. Remove the double socket cover and you can see if the feed cables go up, down and regrettably sometimes left or right.
That doesn't say anything really. In fact, whenever I put a socket or a switch in a hollow wall, I bring the cables in the box from the opposite side of where they are coming from so there's a little loop of extra cable in the wall without it running all too sloppy. Why? If for whatever reason the cable in the box needs to be cut back because of damage, and that leaves me with less slack that I'm comfortable with in the box, I can take out the box and flip it around to pull that extra bit of wiring through without having to find some extra length to push/pull through further along the way, moving the box up/down, making a connection, or replacing the entire length of cabling.
Excellent work sir. We’ve come a long way with the art of fitting doors , thanks to the development of power tools . Harkening back to when I started work back in the late 60s , it was a regular sight to see a joiner fit a door with the add of a hand axe. Only doing the final fitting with a hand plane . I’d don’t know it makes me sounds like I was born in the Victorian era . 😂. Kind regards as always 👍
Enjoyed the way Stuart can do these projects so elegantly. I would have smashed out the entire wall of sheetrock. I do have some vintage solid oak doors I am going to be hanging. I'll need to create new door frames because the old frames are flimsy mahogany veneer. The doors weigh a good 40 lbs. In the US they do not sell separate door frames or linings. So I will have to make my own. I have done this once before and did an ok job. My prior experience was hanging doors on my chicken coop. ugh those doors were hung very amateur. I learned a lot doing that. The chickens didn't comment.
Hi Stuart another great video, I was told by a joiner, put three parts of the barrel of the hinge on the frame and the two on the door to help stop squeaking later on, keep up the good work, G.
Stuart, your video's are top notch and perfectly edited with clear and thorough explanation of what you're doing, they're excellent for learning from with truly trustworthy content. Well done sire.
I like to sit the (cut-down) door into the lining gap (shimming it to position) and mark BOTH door and lining for hinges at the same time to ensure they line up a 100% .
I also use a small cordless router and a homemade template to rout out the hinge pockets... it makes it really easy especially for the lining pockets... and even better if you have multiple doors to hang, I have 10 of 'em to hang here... 😕
Great vid as always, mate !...
😎👍☘️🍻
What did you end up doing with the electrical in the end?
Routing those hinges rebates without a jig. Skilz Stuart! Great video. ❤
Only extra tip would be to place the fixing screws so they are covered by the door stops.
I like the Sunday morning start times
Morning Stuart
At 16:24, I observed that you had used some temporary blocks to prevent the door from falling while levelling it in the frame. It would be helpful to mention this step to your viewers so that they don't overlook it and end up with the door falling out of the frame, damaging either the door or nearby furniture.
Thanks for making this video. Im leaning towards buying a used door, non pre-hung, for a room that im framing in my basement in order to save money. Ive learned some things in here that will definitely be of help. Respect from Wisconsin, USA
You can get internal door casings with the rebate cut into them but not as easy to fit as a door lining . Love your videos
Great video. I've had to move a door and followed a very similar approach, retaining the door rather than salvaging the lining and trying to patch and fill. Cheers. K.
Thanks stuart but a bit dissapointed. Normally your videos are so very detailed and step by step, i feel this video was a bit rushed and you missed a good bit ie. the electrical sockets relocation, the door jams install and the architrave installation. We all love your videos and happy to wait so no need to rush, big fan :)
Excellent video as always! 👍
Your detector get crazy for one reason - it picked up static discharge from sliding it near surface.. Some wall materials do that.. To avoid this, hold detector with one hand, but other hands palm You need to put on wall under test, usually, it will be 5-50cm from detector in that test zone.. Try not to lift hand from wall..
Great job as always, I have a recommendation for you. When using a router for door hinges, the job can be made easier with a trend corner chisel. I bought one a while back, so good😊
This is really interesting, loads of info ,I feel like I could tackle this project after watching this , a part 2 would be nice, see the finished product.
I believe the bosch wall scanner takes you to touch the wall with your other hand as it uses your hand touching the tool as well in its capacitance sensor. And, your tool* could also be knackered as well.
This video came at just the right time - moving my bedroom door is my next project, I now have a good idea of what I need to do and in what order things need doing 👍🏻👍🏻
Only thing I'd do differently would have been to take the faceplate off of the patress box to see where the cables ran.
A masterclass in fitting a door, with the added bonus of cutting a hole in a wall! Thanks Stuart, that was amazing 👏 😊
What happened to the socket. Would be nice to know 😮
Have a guess ?
Stuart, to make life easier why not custom make your own door lining to the size of the door plus a few extra mm so you don't need to trim the door. I believe, and please correct me if I'm wrong, that in a lot of new builds the doors/linings come ready assembled to fit into the opening so no trimming. Great video as always. Keep 'em coming!
You're not wrong about new builds, if the architect has specified 'cassette' doors, the doors will come complete, closed and slot in the opening. Initially fitting with tabs into the wall face and hidden by the architrave. Each hinge has an adjustment screw that allows you to get the hinges to swing properly and maintain a consistent gap. I've 10 in my 5-year-old house, and they're a bugger to match when you have to put a new door in. The only benefit is that factory hinges have curved corners so you can do the whole hinge with the router and a template.
@@StrawbyteWorkshop There's a Robin Clevett video where he fits the doors without trimming into the pre made mdf linings. I think it was on a refurb property (not his Big Build) where he slotted them into existing openings and shimmed/packed accordingly.
Perfect timing! I've bought some new doors and need to alter the door casing to fit the smaller doors.
Nice one Stuart, very informative. Next week the handles and latch?
Any chance of showing how you could fit a new door into a plaster block wall?
Great video Stuart,plenty of information and tips and some humour. Thanks for the video.👍👍
I know this video was about making the door opening but it would have been nice to detail what you did with the wiring for the socket that was in the way thank you
Thank you Stuart , the timing of this video could not be better! I needed just this
Renovating my house and this is exactly what I was looking for, even the door hinge vid suggestion! Thank you
Great to watch someone take their time, do templates first etc, but the reality is most builders or Chippys nowadays are cutting corners and looking to the next job.
Been watching your videos for some time now, just subscribed and as others have mentioned great timing, this week I will mainly be building a doorway into an existing wall 😊😊😊
As an ex joiner, when I was an apprentice I use to pencil a hatch sign on the side of the door where I wanted the ball of the hinge. That way I made sure I didn’t cut out for the hinges on the wrong side.
As easy as you made this look, this would put me out of my comfort zone.
Another top notch video Stuart.
Loving the guitar music.
Muchas muchas gracias por compartir la experiencia, excelente video de como colocar una nueva puerta, (y como hacer el hueco para ella), limpio, a velocidad máster, sin prisas, y disfrutando el trabajo, soy también un joven adulto que ama la carpintería...felicidades!!!, recibe saludos desde Aguascalientes México...😉👍
The socket magically disappeared 😉
Yeah and the lead as well
Either Stuart moved it over or he just removed it and put the cable in a box
I have that scanner, I find if I hold the scanner in one hand, and put my other hand on the wall (anywhere), then I get much more reliable readings. It's almost as if grounding the wall through me, allows the scanner to operate better.
Very good video, I've learned a lot and picked up a lot of new ideas. Many thanks, keep up the great work and the great videos💯👍
Very good well explained video. Btw, once the lining is fully installed including the architrave etc it is no longer a door lining, it is then a door frame. A bit like an ugly duckling becomes a swan.
A length of bathplug chain with a magnet on works great. Swing the magnet back wards and forwards along the wall face. When the magnet sticks to the screw let the chain fall from your hand and this will indicate a plumb line which should be the center of your stud.
Brilliant video stu. Really enjoyed it. Keep up the good work.
Good video and a decent job. Did you make another video on how to sort the electrics out ?
10:06 probably worth a mention that those black bugle head screws are necessary if you don't want rust marks on the finish plaster. They are expensive for a massive box but necessary.
Thanks Stuart - great idea for a vid and well explained as usual. Door looks fantastic and I liked the ‘hello!’ moment. 🙂Any chance you could show us how to seal it all back up again as we need to see how to do that for a project we have in mind (only joking - but not joking). 👍
Very helpful. Especially the tips about minimising dust etc.
That was a great idea cutting small pieces of drywall to eliminate mess. Job well done thanks for sharing it was great content
I use the trend hinge jig, so much quicker. Put the markers where you want the hinges, router them out then transfer the jig to the frame and the markers are in the same place for you to hang the door. It’s just so much easier.
Uncle is old school. Love it
7:14 - a little nod to Charlie Diyte? 😁
Exactly my thought as well!
All praise the multi tool. Makes jobs that much easier. I have a big bucket of those shims. boy do they get used a lot.
Top tutorial video, attention to detail brilliant for the DIY, What make was the router
7:17 Hellow! 😊
Perfect timing - I want to make two back-to-back bathrooms into one bathroom. Now I know how to cut the wall between the two, and refinish it so no one will ever know! To get started, I need to remove some cabinets (I think they are going to another room - there won’t be room for them in the bathroom after we do what we’re trying to accomplish), permanently remove two sinks, permanently remove one toilet, permanently remove a tub/shower unit, add in a roll-in shower, add a pedestal sink and poof! A much safer setup for my wife!
Good video Stuart. Where did the socket go?
I did a similar job on breeze block wall to put in a fire door from our kitchen into our attached garage. Made my own door lining out of 22mm thick MDF because std door linings were not deep enough. I put a lintel in as well as intumescent sealing stripping around the door. For someone who's only a DIYer it turned out OK. At some point I've got a loft hatch to enlarge, a utility room at the back of our garage to create & a raised floor in our loft with extra insulation to do. The list seems to get longer longer every year! 🪛🛠
Really informative and entertaining. The perfect mix
Hi Stuart, informative Video and enjoyable, it would be nice to see a follow up video completing the job etc.
8:25 😂😂😂. Great video as always, Stuart.
Love these videos. Would be interested to see how you would close off a door to convert into wall.
Splendid! Especialy router tips. Why not use flat hinges?
Will you stain or varnish.? Spray or roller - I have 11 off these doors to fit so thanks for showing me this Stuart perfect timing xx
I have got to change a load of doors for oak ones. A few of the frames need changing as well. I got a cheapo damaged door from Wickes, it was £20 because of the damage. It is a crappy door but it is perfectly sized and square so I am using it as a template for frames and hinges etc.
Makes me want to give it a go myself! Only our walls are made of brick and won't go so easy as yours :D well done, enjoyed watching that
As soon as I hit 40 I wake up at 7am religiously whilst rest of house is fast asleep even at weekends 😂 so this is “me time” ❤❤❤
So how does that work, do you sleep an hour earlier or is everyone else on their phones? Sleep is important, too
@@pigeonlove they are all fast asleep, I’m wide awake no matter what time I go to bed night before. So DIY UA-cam = Sunday morning
Hi, I like your videos a lot. I am looking at making some plantation shutters in the near future. A video on this would be good, especially where to source the materials from.
Good video thanks!
Downside is I dont jave the same tools, so going a low vudget route myself.
Another brilliant job but I would love to see you do the same on a brick wall.
Very Inspiring as always. BTW I think there's a company that uses clips from your videos to advertise some very questionable electrical appliance
Great video, came just in time I have 3 doors to fit. Keep the videos coming 👍🏻
Great Video - some super tips as always.
However, I'm sure I saw in a video somewhere on UA-cam that when screwing plasterboard to studs you shouldn't screw so tight you rip through the paper covering because that massively weakens the fix. Am I remembering that correctly?
Yes, the gib pops thru, never tear the paper.
Another great video Stuart....
You really are the top man 👌
Brilliant video, I've learned alot from your videos, very clear and easy to understand. Many thanks 💯👍👍
Very helpful hints, very smart. Very well done 👍👏🙏
Nice work amigo you present the tasks well cheers
Nice one. Where'd the electrical go??
Magical door stops appeared not mentioned?
Well done Mr.
06:28 What happened with the double socket and wiring?
Hey there! Do you have a video on how to install a concealed door closer? Loving your videos btw
Never seen the magnet trick… that’s just awesome.
Why is there insulation in the internal wall ? . Great video, well presented by the way
You couldn't have timed this video any better, thanks 👍🏻👍🏻
I love this channel, and Stuart makes it look easy. But be warned, here is a whole lot more stuff happening off camera.
...great video, what stopped the door from falling through when you measured up the hinges?
In Australia it's a door frame, the studs would be at 450mm or 600mm centres and the door would probably be hung on two hinges not three. I have no idea why your internal wall is insulated. That sort of insulation does nothing for sound transmission and I don't imagine that thermal insulation is required between two internal rooms. Good workmanship though. Good video but we didn't see the power outlet and its wiring being relocated.
Just what I'm looking for. Great details
Nice high quality jöb. BTW isn't it worth to use longer screws to fix the hinges? Those small doodads seem a bit underpowered.
Great video as always and explained easy for the novice and pro 👍
uk building industry is one of a kind. The manufacturer just makes 3 simple pieces of wood and you need to cut everything by yourself. Why not to go to the forest and start with cutting the tree? In Europe, the frame comes pre-cut and even pre-drilled for all required mounts, handles and other accessories, as its so much easier to do this in the factory. You can even buy frames with integrated skirting adjustable to the wall thickness. It usually takes 10 minutes to install such frames
Very useful video thank you! When fitting the door lining what height would you be looking to set that at? Door was 1981mm so about 1986mm? Thanks
you should think about getting the milwaukee m18 fuel multitool.. that and a shop vac, you could get done in less then an hour you should do a review on it
Awesome Stuart. Your vids are top shelf. Thanks as akways
Great video Stuart! Sometimes you see the "middle" hinge placed much closer to the top hinge than than the middle. Why? is that better for heavy doors?
Thank you Bob for the advice. Very useful and interesting. Dave F@@bobbobberino2306
Excellent as always Stuart, thank you 👍
No header needed for the frame?
Your series has honestly replaced Saturday morning tv for me.
5:13 If the detector goes crazy the wall is probably staticaly charged. Easy fix: put your free hand on the wall! If the alarm sound goes stumm then it's a false positive. And it's recomended to make three passes on area in question...
That video is ok for a partition wall but you should emphasize if it is a load bearing wall that framing method isn't correct. That should be investigated before cutting out any studs . You would need a header of proper size for the door opening to carry the load of the stud(s) removed. The magnet trick is very useful as you state.