Bricklaying Guide -How To do a Cavity Tray Over Lintel
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- Bricklaying Guide -How To do a Cavity Tray Over Lintel
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How To do a Cavity Tray Over Lintel - Bricklaying Guide to cavity trays over windows and doors in the construction industry. step by step guide of how to cut the tray and install it.
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Gold dust the detail in these vids. Thanks for your efforts, Stu
Fantastic tutor, a real gentleman. Every video is a gem.
Cheers for that joe mate all the best
@@Stucrompton1 Thank you.
Top video stu,
Top marks for doing a voice over after ya work even when ya appeared to be doing a running commentary on the day.
impossible to do a full bang on commentary for a tutorial vid and have full focus on ya work with spot on results like ya do.
Thumbs up, effort is seen and noticed for sure on this channel.
Great to see the fall arrest system within the building on this video, excellent succinct and clear. Brilliant content.
Thanks for the videos Stu, my grandfather was a mason and I inspire to turn out like him one day
Spot on Stu. Looks very intricate and the finish is stunning. 👍🏾
Intricate Work there, lad. Very inspiring and a good visual practical aid in learning. Masonry is really an art and you all are quite underrated. Thank you for sharing this
Great video. Clear and concise explanation. Great to watch like all of your other videos.
Really good quality, instructional video, Stu - thanks for sharing 👍
Like it stu 👍 I hate it when we are made to put steel under the stone was a lot better a few year ago looked a lot better
I'm not a bricky so honest question. Are u saying u didn't have to put steel under the stone in the past so the stone was a structural part of the building? I'm assuming with steel under they are just a decorative feature rather than structural?
@@johndaniells4440 Yere the stone was structural good enough in its own
Cheers bud.
@@johndaniells4440 no problem 👍
This is exactly what I need to know what to do, thank you
You're hilarious 😂 loved this video narration. I never knew what and wind pole was either. LOL.
Great vid Stu. I thought the weep holes went the other way round. Maybe I have been doing wrong.
Most put the weep holes the other way around, good to see them this way.
Good video Stu interesting to see how they fit in, like those stone heads, look great.
Nice and simple explanation keep it up. Top man 👍
Why do l like watching other brickies lay brick l do it every day . must b just in our blood lol. lrish brickie forever 👊
Yep me too! bordering on a strange obsession me thinks
Much more educational stu, cheers
Great learning vid Stu Appreciate it keep up the good work 👍
True professional! 👍
Great video stu !
superb vid stu, great explanation :)
Great video , will be a big help 👍
Cheers sean
Good bricklayer. , & next.
Not like all the brick tapper’s . I see & hear .Although can’t understand the wearing of Gloves ! Unless it’s extra cold .
Been an apprenticed bricklayer since 1976.
Great trade. All the best.
Nice vid. Cheers. Wind poles max 450mm spacing - every 2 bricks.
Dpc to oversail the lintel to protect window / door head. (Likely in case either are timber)
Nice neat job as always. Nothing much changed since I last laid a brick 10 years ago 👍👍👍
Goat here.
Great videos Stu keep em coming 👍🏻
Хорошая работа!! Успехов в работе!
Is it possible to retro fit the membrane? If so how would it be secured to the inner wall.
GOOD TEACHER. Liked the stone lintels. Probably would have put a line of silicone under the rubber liner.
Great guide
Good work Stu, as always 😀😀
Nice video stu
The mud is very satisfying. 😊😍
Follow asmr bricklaying for more satisfying videos
I noticed gaz speedy bedded his side of the lintel before u stu! But it’s not always better to be faster! That’s what my wife says anyway
Hello. Love the video. Can I ask.. If I want to put a lintel on a single brick wall (Garage) do I still need some sort of DPC & weep holes? Thanks.
“Or else your house will have to be knocked down and rebuilt “ 😂😂😂
😂
Great explanation, thanks.
Great video mate!
Cheers brother
Good to see how that's all done. Moral of the story is, if you fall out with your neighbour, glue their weep holes for slow revenge. 😂
Nice vid, thanks Stu. What gloves are you using?
Just stared my apprenticeship really needed this
Hi Stu i think ur the best technical brickie on utube. I have a question only with ur experience can answer…I have my neighbours ground level 350mm above mine. The weep holes will need to go 150mm above my neighbours ground level on the external wall..but as my ground level is 350mm below neighbours ground level how would I position my cavity tray, weak mix between the cavity and insulation…?
Thank you so much for the video Stu!
Love the videos m8
1923 brick and block 2 story home had all lintels warp and bow below soldiers (course above windows) creating a gap between lintels and soldier course. Would any blockage in cavity wall contribute to this? Lintels were changed out 25 years ago. One 1st floor window has water damage at ceiling. Wondering what caused this? Cavity wells were never installed 1923 and I'm pretty sure the 2nd time as well.
Love the videos
Just wondering where the insulation sits? Woukd it sit ontop of the cavity tray?
Those Stone lintels look so good, what kind of stone is it?
Good stuff stu
Top job stu
Zip thing is good too!!
great stuff
The weep holes only need to go around windows or not?
You are a neat mason.
what is the black cavity tray material called? could send its specs
Stu have you any more videos with gaz speedy they where great videos... Good next week mate👍👍👍
I may have but I’m off site now, but will be going back visiting the lads to see what their up to 👍
@@Stucrompton1 thanks Stu you's where good lads witht a good technique it's a pleasure to watch ....
Could anyone tell me if the DPC above the Cavity tray Lintel is a buildings reg requirement in the UK? Thanks in advance.
How do you make the mortar squidge out like that when you place a brick without it being really wet is it the plastisier ? Makes it easier to get the brick level and my mortar kept drying out dead quick
maybe the bricks you were using were highly absorbant? dampen the bricks or don't spread a long bed if your struggling to get them down.
how would you work the CAVITY TRAY ,DPC if the outside skin was block and you were using a concrete lintel,,cheers
I would do a water test after
The brick has harden and this will clean the cavity tray out before you enclose the cavity. 🤠
Well done 👍Stu 🏴
Would cutting the DPC on the lintel with the utility knife like that not cause a scratch in the galvanised coating on the lintel leading to early corrosion of the lintel? Should you not be placing a plank or similar on the lintel to protect it while cutting?
Chillax it's just a touch with the tip, will take a lot more to damage the surface
Isnt it easier and quicker to use Preformed tray from Cavity Trays of Yeovil?
Do they not require fire socks were the jack wall is ?
Just a picky comment or query now: can you avoid resting the stone head on a half-brick at each side of the window opening - the vertical joint of the half-brick and the next brick lines up with the vertical joint of the head and the adjoining brickwork so you get two vertical joints connected together. If the window height allows it, could you lay out the bricks so the head rests on a full brick at each side and the vertical joints are always staggered?
John Gee
Hi mate in response to you question of course it’s possible but you would need to change the bond which would look terrible or you could try to work out the bond from the very first course but chances are something else would be put out! First thing we do is set out the bond to make sure things fit and look right! And it looks to me like this is over a second story window! Also there isn’t much room to manoeuvre in terms of where doors and windows are placed, you usually don’t get to deviate from the plans too much you might get away with moving them 20mm to 30mm max if it means getting full stretches instead of 3/4 which look shit! A lot more to brickwork than people think ( to do it right anyway)
Hi stu I have been watching your videos for couple of weeks now and just wanting some advice I did three years in college bricklaying and haven't done it in years what would be the best way to get myself back into it thanks Paul
Bricklaying jobs uk Facebook page. You could just ask around, drive by sites. If your keen enough you will find something 👍
Why use the dpc only over the lintel what happens in the cavity around the rest of the wall?
I like this video very informative
Would be great if one day you could show the Correct way to cut the the tray at the bottom of a building on the corners where two separate trays meet and the laps get stuck together with the blue double side tape i struggle in these areas as I think many others do as they are quite complex
Thanks Josh
Could you do a video one day on fitting cavity trays on an existing building,for above an extension say 👍🏻
Does the same apply to concrete lintels?
seems all our weep holes if they ever existed were rendered over during the build and I'm pretty sure we have water in the cavity
Sending apprentices and newbies off on nonsensical errands used to be part and parcel of any ( mostly male ) workplace, but I sometimes wonder if the P.C. police might be killing off. Or perhaps. most people today don't have enough wit and imagination to pull it off. Back in the late 60's - early 70's I used to work for a large motorcycle dealer in Perth, WA and the boys in the workshop were always sending new apprentices around the corner to a scooter dealership to see if they could borrow a couple of pounds of compression or a box of sparks. The bloke at the scooter place was in on the joke and would give the kid a sealed, but empty cardboard carton with some "compression" in it.
The machinist in that workshop did his time at the WA Railways workshop and he told me that in the blacksmiths' shop, the favourite prank was to send a 1st year apprentice down to the steel store to get the key for the door of their big furnace. The key didn't exist, but the blokes at the steel store would give the kid a long and very heavy tool that they used to roll RSJ steel beams with. The poor little bugger would stagger all the way back to the blacksmith shop with the "key", only to be told he had the wrong one and would have to take it back!
Even being aware of the possibility that you might be about become the victim of a practical joke can backfire on you. A mate of mine in Queensland used to work on a fettlers crew for Queensland rail. One day, he was out on the job helping to re-align some track when one of the crew asked him to drive back to the workshop and get the curve gauge. Thinking he was about to be the butt of joke, he just laughed at the bloke and jokingly told him to go and get you know what. A huge argument broke out that nearly ended in fisticuffs before my mate found out that railway tracks are slightly wider on the curves than they are on the straight bits and to check the extra width, you need a curve gauge - which is a real thing!
One crap sorry
Thankyou great. Barb
It does matter extending the tray too far beyond the lintel for other trades needing to put vents in for extractors or flues. 150mm bearing and 1st joint after for the tray
So the lintel and soldier's are just cosmetic, the catnic does the real work, good to know.
I've got a Victorian house and over my windows are soldiers with a very shallow curve, it's 9" solid wall, do you think there's a concrete lintel behind them or do you think they are structural?
almost certainly the shallow arch is structural with a timber lintel on the internal leaf unless it has already been replaced.
КРАСАВЧИК БУДЬ ЗДОРОВ УДАЧИ🙋🙋🙋🙋🙋🙋🙋🙋
I'm retired and quite right too but I noticed a bloke building a house down the road from me and he didn't put trays under the windows something I've always done infact it was insisted on by the building inspector .infact he told me lots of things have changed I said yes we had to build walls plumb and level . So can anyone shine a light on when this changed ?
The weep holes on a stretcher are every 4 bricks
Ben Nicholson NHBC requires them every 450mm
450mm over openings. 900mm any other time.
Does this have to be done on all lintels????
Stu in the video I can see the dividing wall and the concrete blocks connect with the thermalite block in the corner they haven’t been formed as a true corner just butted up together. Is this normal? Is there not a structural concern? Cheers
Ask the house designers pal. Everything’s tied in as it should be every course with brick mesh and ties. It all must be sufficient or they wouldn’t be passed off with Nhbc
👍🏻
The cavity tray should extend over the lintel otherwise rainwater can migrate under the tray and over the lintel by capillary attraction that then allows the water to either fall off the ends of the lintel into the cavity or sit there eventually causing the lintel to rust.
Can you do one for dpc in corners and stepped cavity tray on a roof abutment
Hi Stu - I don't get it - is water MEANT to get in there? Or is that set up IN CASE water gets down into the cavity..?? And are soldiers for aesthetic reasons? Nice vid Stu!
Water will get in...the outside skin is the "wet skin", and the inner skin is the "dry skin" the cavity is there so the water doesn't transfer from one to the other. Over windows and doors you need the cavity tray as when water passes through the "wet skin" if there was no cavity tray it would just come in through your window or door.
It's where ever you have something bridging the cavity for example the lintel....It's amazing how nobody seems to properly understand what trays are for!!!! I've had to explain to fellow bricklayers before...even Stu fails to mention it's nothing to do with damp running down cavity....that's fine it will always do that but if it runs down lands on the lintel and then tracks back through to the internal skin you will get damp that's why trays goes over anything that bridges the cavity.... lintel,s radon at dpc, roof abutments etc that's why if you look at tie wires they have a drip half way along because they bridge the cavity if the water runs down them it will hit the drop and fall into the cavity rather than travel along and hit the internal skin...
Thanks Paul - understand it now!
Make it look easy
where was the insulation in those cavities?
Water might come down anywhere not just the windows. You'll need lintels all around the house, with weep vents.
What do you do when cavity tray over a lintel is inside and the two walls are internal.?
dont bother on internal walls. This is to filter rain penetration out of the cavity wall.
Why is the cavity tray just above a window. What about moisture dripping down the rest of the wall cavity??
Th damp proof course at the bottom
I know this is an old video, but wind poles are actually a thing now if you live in an exposed area and the reveals are less than 750mm. Another pain in the butt to think about.
Heyy
How much isolation is in between the walls? (cm)
Thank for the Answer
100 mm
Oh wow, do you now the Term Lamda?(λ)
Here where I work, we use 200-250 mm of Isolation. The Isolation has a Lambda of 0.035 up to 0.018.
And is your Isolation anorganic so you can push it in between the walls?
I hope you understand my question
Thanks
Lukas
@@bennicholson191
Lukas Sprenger it’s insulation not isolation
Where does stu reside, sounds like a Wiganer?
Wigan is correct marra 😁
Funny, now we have to use thicker wall ties on site than those ones for external cavity walls.. the internal walls are the only ones that we use them on.
Увек интересантно.Хвала.
When you build over with bricks do you prop the little???
What’s your intro song mate
The Night is Young - PHOCO Remix
Why are you only putting the cavity tray and membrane above the window ONLY as opposed to wrapping it 360 degrees round the entire building ?
Haha long time since i heard the word fetler, ha ha
I discovered my new build had fake weep holes cause it was built by an A-hole! Imagine that...