Fantastic video, I’ve watched it a few times. I have a few cabinet doors I want to try to tackle. I however am not certain of the color. I tried to add you on Instagram. Wondering if I share some photos if you can recommend which of the Mohawk colors you believe will work best. I trust you have a great eye for color.
This video is amazing! I have approx 2006 thomasville cabinets they said the color was caramel. But it almost appears to be a maple cherry color. I wish i could send u a picture. Dang it. Maybe u could help me
@nickyb.9588 I apologize for the delay on answering this; Check out www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/aerosols/tone-finish-toner/ and do Ctrl+F on your keyboard then type in M115-1067 and see if that's close to the color you need.
I have the same style cabinet doors. Some of them have spread open at the 45 degree corner joint from water getting in while cleaning. Do you know any way to repair this and bring the joint back together?
Since most joints are glued, you will have to check to see if the glue has separated from the wood at the joint or if the glue separated from itself. At the bottom of the door do you see a gap between them as well? This will tell you if the wood can be clamped back to 45 degrees or if there is more to the issue you have. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the helpful video on repairing worn cabinet areas with Mohawk Aersol Toner. My cabinets have a satin sheen and I am wondering what type of topcoat to apply after the repair work has been done to make the repair work match the original sheen. Can I use a wipe on satin poly or is there something else that might work better? Thanks, Wayne
Great question. Personally I like the Ultra Flo from Mohawk. Its one of the easiest to flow the touch-up into the existing finish. Here is a link to one and I do not receive any compensation for it. www.woodworkingshop.com/product/M1020452 But it is the cheapest even with shipping included.
Toner is a lacquer, so it can act like a sealer, but it doesn't have the build a sealer does. The last coat should always be your final top coat. This case Pre-Cat Lacquer, for durability and choose the right sheen for matching your doors.
My cabinets are made from solid cherry with a light dye stain and clear lacquer. Then top coat is getting gummy and soft in the areas near the knobs. Because they are cherry and have darken after 13 years how can I remove the gummy areas. Will mineral spirts like you show in the video work? I’m afraid to use lacquer thinner as it may remove the stain. Your video is awesome. Any help would be appreciated.
Depends on the top coat. Typically where the knobs are, is oily transfer from hands. A lot of things are going on in the kitchen and we don't always think to keep our hands completely clean when opening a door. This is the majority of why it feels gummy. Mineral Spirits will help cut the grease. My go to cleaner is Grease Lighting for this type of situation. Do not use lacquer thinner as that WILL soften the finish and remove both the finish and the stain. Hope that helps and thanks for watching! I appreciate it
Color names are hard because each factory or design space uses similar names but the hues might differ. I recommend getting a few different cans, make sure each color is similar to the "Espresso" base color, but have either a slightly red, slightly green, or browner tones to the toners. I recommend Mohawk Toners because they have been consistent and available for 20 years. That said, if you look at 4 colors, M100-0207, M100-0351, M100-0249, and M100-7021, they are all brown but have undertones. For instance, 0207 is red/brown, 0249 is yellow-brown, 7021 is green brown and 0351 is burgundy brown. Best to figure out or purchase several different or similar colors. This is a pain because you may have more than you wanted, but you can spray-mix or float toners between each light coat to blend to the perfect match. Hope that helps!
Thanks for watching! It really depends on what the color is. Here is a link to several colors. www.woodworkingshop.com/product/parultratoner/ Let me know which one you think it's closer matching to and I'll be happy to help you dial it in for your cabinets.
Awesome video Mike! You're a wealth of knowledge man 👍👊
I appreciate that! Thanks for checking it out Mike!
I’ve watched this video twice. You make it look very easy. I appreciate your videos.
Thank you for watching!
This video is very descriptive and helpful.
Thank you for the feedback and watching!
Wow, this is an excellent video! Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Great video. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Fantastic video, I’ve watched it a few times. I have a few cabinet doors I want to try to tackle. I however am not certain of the color. I tried to add you on Instagram. Wondering if I share some photos if you can recommend which of the Mohawk colors you believe will work best. I trust you have a great eye for color.
Thank you for watching and reaching out Eric. Please let me know how it turns out and if you need any assistance when you're tackling this project.
Great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Wonderful video!!
Thanks for watching!
This video is amazing! I have approx 2006 thomasville cabinets they said the color was caramel.
But it almost appears to be a maple cherry color. I wish i could send u a picture. Dang it. Maybe u could help me
@nickyb.9588 I apologize for the delay on answering this; Check out www.mohawk-finishing.com/products/wood-touch-up-repair/aerosols/tone-finish-toner/ and do Ctrl+F on your keyboard then type in M115-1067 and see if that's close to the color you need.
Awesome tips! I really dig the tape & step tip. I see that being a huge help.
Thank you for that. Masking isn't hard as long as you have the right tape!
I have the same style cabinet doors.
Some of them have spread open at the 45 degree corner joint from water getting in while cleaning. Do you know any way to repair this and bring the joint back together?
Since most joints are glued, you will have to check to see if the glue has separated from the wood at the joint or if the glue separated from itself. At the bottom of the door do you see a gap between them as well? This will tell you if the wood can be clamped back to 45 degrees or if there is more to the issue you have. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the helpful video on repairing worn cabinet areas with Mohawk Aersol Toner. My cabinets have a satin sheen and I am wondering what type of topcoat to apply after the repair work has been done to make the repair work match the original sheen. Can I use a wipe on satin poly or is there something else that might work better? Thanks, Wayne
Great question. Personally I like the Ultra Flo from Mohawk. Its one of the easiest to flow the touch-up into the existing finish. Here is a link to one and I do not receive any compensation for it. www.woodworkingshop.com/product/M1020452 But it is the cheapest even with shipping included.
I have honey maple cabinets. Do you know which shade I would use
So the last coat you just used the toner as a sealer? Don’t need a separate one?
Toner is a lacquer, so it can act like a sealer, but it doesn't have the build a sealer does. The last coat should always be your final top coat. This case Pre-Cat Lacquer, for durability and choose the right sheen for matching your doors.
My cabinets are made from solid cherry with a light dye stain and clear lacquer. Then top coat is getting gummy and soft in the areas near the knobs. Because they are cherry and have darken after 13 years how can I remove the gummy areas. Will mineral spirts like you show in the video work? I’m afraid to use lacquer thinner as it may remove the stain. Your video is awesome. Any help would be appreciated.
Depends on the top coat. Typically where the knobs are, is oily transfer from hands. A lot of things are going on in the kitchen and we don't always think to keep our hands completely clean when opening a door. This is the majority of why it feels gummy. Mineral Spirits will help cut the grease. My go to cleaner is Grease Lighting for this type of situation. Do not use lacquer thinner as that WILL soften the finish and remove both the finish and the stain. Hope that helps and thanks for watching! I appreciate it
I have espresso prefinished cabinets...any tips on a color match for those?
Color names are hard because each factory or design space uses similar names but the hues might differ. I recommend getting a few different cans, make sure each color is similar to the "Espresso" base color, but have either a slightly red, slightly green, or browner tones to the toners. I recommend Mohawk Toners because they have been consistent and available for 20 years. That said, if you look at 4 colors, M100-0207, M100-0351, M100-0249, and M100-7021, they are all brown but have undertones. For instance, 0207 is red/brown, 0249 is yellow-brown, 7021 is green brown and 0351 is burgundy brown. Best to figure out or purchase several different or similar colors. This is a pain because you may have more than you wanted, but you can spray-mix or float toners between each light coat to blend to the perfect match. Hope that helps!
Hi, great video.
Which toner would I get for a light colored maple?
Thanks for watching! It really depends on what the color is. Here is a link to several colors. www.woodworkingshop.com/product/parultratoner/ Let me know which one you think it's closer matching to and I'll be happy to help you dial it in for your cabinets.
Wow 😯 it’s an art
Thank you for watching!
What happened to clear coating it?
Must have forgotten that step. Its not necessary with the Mohawk toners as they have lacquer build into the formula
👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!