How To get the MOST out of your LC2i PRO | Tips & Tricks | Install Setup Tuning Review
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- This video focuses on tips and tricks for getting the best sound possible out of your LC2i Pro or LC2i in your upgraded car audio setup. Topics discussed include Signal Wire, AccuBASS, Boost, The Maximized Light, Source Quality, Input Terminal and RCA Cables. The LC2i is a LOC (LINE Out Converter) made by audio control and this video will hopefully help anyone who has an LC2i or LC2i Pro to maximize their results with methods explained in this how to tutorial. Enjoy!
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I use the lc2i pro with great results highly recommended 👌
Great content!!! Super informative🙌💪
Got everything hooked up last night, so after work I'm going to play a bit with it. I do have a DD1+ so I'm gonna work the pro with the accubass, threshold, etc. To hopefully maximize its potential. Without touching anything there's an ok sound coming but I know it's now time to tune.
Can't wait for you to experience the end result my friend! 💪💯 I was always a tune by ear kinda guy but learning test tones and tuning with multimeter was a game changer for me and my final sounding result. You've got a great advantage there with the DD-1. The LC2i Pro on its own can help you find your max undistorted volume on your head unit for your input by playing a 0db testone with lc2i level set to zero. Make sure AC1 remote is unplugged and keep tuning up the volume on your source until the maximized light comes on. Then back off one volume and make sure it's maximized light is off and then you know your max undistorted headunit (source) volume. Meaning max volume you can turn up to before distortion occurs. If it's the sub channel use a 40Hz 0db test tone to find the max headunit volume level and maybe turn the bass level on the headunit down to get to higher volumes before that maximised light comes on. Then use 4a 0Hz at -3 or -5db test tone to set the level for your LC2i and make sure your max voltage output is under your amps maximum voltage input threshold. You might already know all of this. I might make another video soon. Hope this helps either way and keep me posted and let me know how it turns out my friend. 🙏
I have a 2011 Toyota 4Runner. I disconnected the factory subwoofer(jbl) and ran the wires straight to the lc21. It sounds good but I’ve noticed it doesn’t hit some continuous low notes on some songs.
Do you have a subsonic filter in your amplifier and if so what is it set to my friend? Try Monster Cable RCA’s. Sounds nuts but I’ve fixed a few setups that were missing the low frequencies with that one cable swap. 💯 Let me know how it goes. 🤞
Great video man… Any experience with DQ61?
Its great to see nice clean and clear review, thanks.
What year is your Lexus No M/L and which colors did you tap into to get the sub signal to the LC2i?
Thank you for your comment and support my friend. 🙏 2021 and I have ML. Colors can vary but usually pin 6 and 21 on a Lexus harness for most of their vehicles is the sub channel. I know this for sure when it comes to ES and IS. Hope this helps. 🤞🤞
Hi! New subscriber and I was wondering if you have any info on how I can and an amp to my gs350. Problem is the factory amp I believe controls more than just the stereo. I added a amp for subs but I want to add an amp for my highs.
Thanks in advance
Welcome to the channel my friend and thank you for your support! 😃 Google this amp Clarion XC1410. I'm using this on along side a Pioneer GM-D1004 to keep all upgraded 8 interior speakers at 4ohms and a separate amp for my subs. The beauty of these amps are that they are small, adjustable and give one heck of a punch! You'll be surprised what kind of power they can produce and also they don't take a lot of power and you can run them off a small distro block close to where your sub amp is located. I was going to piggy back them both off the power and ground of my sub amp but I thought this method would be safer. Both come with built in fuses too. Aim for the Clarion if you can tho because it has gain knobs for the front and rear channels where the pioneer does not so the pioneer plays at full RMS power. Hope this helps my friend. 🙏
I have a 2022 es350 f sport with the M.L. system. Could you please let me know what wires you used to tap into. I used wires from the 32 pin connector on the amp under the drivers seat. I tapped into a power wire, I think pin # 1 and #3 for the ground. Right now I am just tapped into the factory sub wires but I would like to make sure I get tapped into a full range signal. I am getting ready to install a 4 channel amp to run two mids and two tweeters which I'm going to install in the rear deck. To me I feel the ML system has most of the sound coming from the front. I don't even here any sound coming from the rear except from the skar audio 12" sub
You are correct my gs300 has the ML system and I can confirm most of the vocals come from the front im currently tapped into my factory sub wire that’s in my rear deck for my aftermarket subs but I know I’m going to have to tap into the front door speaker signal for my 4 channel amp
Hello Techinsomina, is there a way to adjust the depthness of your sub while using the LC2i? I have two JL audios 10 inch with a JL audio 750/1 amp. Factory radio from a Ram 1500 12 inch screen. but i've notice my sub sounds a little too punchie and not too much depth or humpth if that's even a word lol.
I had the exact same problem my friend. Could be one of two things and for me it was both. 😅 Gain could be too high on your amp but more likely you output level from the LC2i isn't high enough. It you're tapping a stock head unit, try turing your bass level on your head unit to -6 or to the lowest it can go. This will allow you to send a cleaner bass signal you LOC and then turn the output level higher on your LC2i. Another trick that worked for many online and myself included is to move your RCA's to the main RCA output and not BASS output. It's a cleaner less processed result if you don't already have the Main RCA output in use. Also don't be afraid of the maximized light. Get that LC2i level knob as high as you can. It does something different to the signal than your gain on the amplifier. It fills it up. I have my set up exactly like this and the maximized light does come on at 65-75% max volume on my headunit but only in a flickering kind of way and only during heavy bass notes and I haven't damaged anything in my setup as a result. Just keep an eye on your setup after making this adjustment. If your amp or LC2i is getting warm/hot it's ok but if you touch your subs and they are hot then tune it back a bit on the amp gain. Trust me. Your sound will be so good you won't want to tune it back 💯
Thank you very much. I will try this today.
Try looking into the pac ap4-ch41. I think newer rams have anc but pac also make a bypass for that. With the ap4-ch41 you’ll be able to get a cleaner sub rca out like an aftermarket radio would.
@TechInsomnia , Good evening! I am running into a couple issues that I am not certain or comprehending anyway. Getting this set right! Lol, gonna go back out and try a few things. With the threshold I have it at 5 volts on the stock sub, same coming out of RCA'S to amp. Got a bit frustrated so gonna try at it again.
@TechInsomnia , hey there! Hey, I'm having a hard time understanding and figuring out how to get the threshold and accubass to come in just right like say for instance when I switch songs. I'll hear a couple lower end notes before the bass picks up to where it should be. Like there's a couple second or second lag so to speak. I wouldn't think this to be normal, or is it? I'm gonna start all over with everything down and try tuning it back in. When it's hitting, it's HITTING HARD! IMPRESSED by that for sure. Any words of wisdom for this tech rookie?
I was looking to add a subwoofer tapping off the subwoofer high level active channel after the amplifier on a 2020-2022 Subaru Legacy/outback with HK system.
I can confirm the bass rolls off at volume 20/38 using an OScope. The voltage plateaus.
Using the lc2i pro
In the instructions it state “once the bass rolls off you can turn dial to bring it back to restore) if I do this at volume 21 (where it starts to roll off) does it increase the bass from 0-20? I am just wondering if it will over exaggerate bass at lower volumes? Thanks. Dave
I don't think it will increase the bass in a volume manner but rather the input sensitivity of that Hz range (bass) if that makes any sense? You'll have to play around with it a bit to get the desired affect but it will work. One one thing that drives me crazy with this feature sometimes is once correctly set if you raising the volume past the point its set at (for you it would be 21) you will notice the bass jump back in significantly near or after that point. If you leave it at a volume beyond 21 it's fine but it's nice to have a more gradual increase rather than a jump and drop in base alone when raising or lowering the volume near that set point. You might want an even strong bass signal output at higher volumes so your lows can keep up with your highs if you've swapped you interior speakers for high sensitively drivers. Also I don't think your bass will be over exaggerated at lower volumes as long as you have both accubass knobs at zero and then bring your head unit to 21 and only then start turning/increasing them from zero. Hope this helped my friend. 🙏
@@TechInsomnia thanks for the information. I was debating between this and the kicker keyloc. I tend to trust audio control a little more since they are the original creators of this technology. However I do like how it Auto EQs the signal and can restore what’s needed or tone done down the over kill frequency’s (flatten maybe a better word). So that’s interesting that it jumps up tremendously after the fine line of the roll off point.
@@daveroskiPleasure 🙏 I'll have to try that one out from kicker one day soon just to have experience in comparison. You will notice the transition at that point but how much depends on your Accubass level which is different from the accubass threshold.
@@TechInsomnia fyi. I emailed audio control the same original question I asked you a day ago. I’ll see what they say. I’ll bring up your point to them to in my next reply about the jump in bass then it meets threshold.
Appreciate that my friend. 🙏 The more we ALL know the more we ALL grow 💪💙✨
Also, considering a DSP for both vehicles but 1st in the daily driver to play around with. Zero experience with those. My deck in truck has all the crossovers, and all the bells and whistles. Definitely need to take top cover off by back window and trunk and gonna have to go pretty heavy on deadener too. More rattle then sound. Lemme know what ya think!
Sounds like a really good game plan my friend! 💪 If at all possible by any chance you can change the head unit to an Alpine Single or Double Din you will be rocking and rolling with wayyyyyy better quality sound than any factory OEM head unit could ever deliver. I'm running single din alpine in my glovebox because there isn't anywhere else to mount it in my car because it's a newer vehicle and manufactures don't like to give people the option anymore unfortunately. 😔 When you start with the best possible sound the chances of that sound further improving is better as it's fed to amplifiers with good quality RCA's. A DSP takes a shitty signal and try's to clean it up as best it can but in my experience it's never quite as good as starting with a high quality aftermarket source unit especially if you're bluetoothing to it with a smartphone that supports Dolby Atmos sound. 🔥 Sometimes we work with what we have tho and I understand if this is a crazy upgrade for most people but I'm a bit of a crazy person when it comes to sound and after all the systems I've had in all my cars in the past, I'm not easily satisfied with a little boom. I need quality sound coming from upgraded everything in order to really be content. 🙏 I had to do the same thing with my current rear dash. It's a pain but well worth it in the end. 💯
@TechInsomnia , oh! And my phone, yes has Dolby Atmos and it is on! Significant difference in sound which I discovered when I 1st got my phone. I currently have a Samsung Galaxy S20 FE. I'm gonna catch frownie face for this, but I walked away from Apple some years ago now. Last iPhone I had was the 10, I think😆 I'm wanting to get the 22 Ultra, but this does what I need it to and I'm good with that. When it comes to head units I've always since 1995-96 been an Alpine, Kenwood and Pioneer fan. Kenwood/JVC is my bread and butter though. Trucks got the Kenwood DDX376BT and wow is all I can say. The functionality of the unit is amazing from time alignment to the crossovers, etc. 🙂
I have lc2i pro I want to run to rear deck speakers what gauge wire should I use
I like and use 16 gauge personally. Always works well. 💯 Use pure copper cable for best results my friend. 🙏
Anyone had any good sound with the blue kicker k series interconnected RCAs? Just grabbed a 3ft set to hook up with LC2ipro. Crazy I haven’t built a car audio system in 10years or more last set up was pair of L7 15s and a kicker zx2500.1 when they were the latest technology stuff is so advanced now it’s crazy
They should be good RCA’s because Kickers products are usually always throughly tested before they leave the facility and that’s not me being a fanboy but just from what I’ve seen on the tours online. Maybe try a different RCA. Also just remember that the original non-pro version of LC2i can only play down to 33hz and won’t go lower. If you have a non pro version and you missing your low lows then that could potentially be the issue.
@@TechInsomnia no, I grab the pro. I just wasn’t too sure if those RC‘s were any good or not I’ve never had a problem with kicker either are used to love that their amps were marketed at their RMS wattage and then it would come with a certificate of testing that was usually over, I’m definitely a fan of kicker but not everything they’ve made.
I have a Subaru WRX STI. I want to install a mono amp off the sub. And a 4 channel amp. I don't need fading or left and right. Can I do that
Shouldn't be a problem. Are you tapping the stock headunit/amp?
@@TechInsomnia yes I am.
@@TechInsomnia should I just use my rear speakers for both amps. Thanks
Great video man. Any experience with DQ61?
Thank you my friend 🙏 No experience with the DQ61 yet but I've heard good things. That will likely be what I run in my next car and I'll go dual amp like my last car. I'm sure the DQ61 is a huge step up in customizability. 💯💪💥
Thanks. Great content ❤
Thank you very much my friend 🙏
Is there a reason why my lc2i pro doesnt read voltage anymore it was fine but recently when i tried to re tune with multimeter it says 0 voltage when turning the knobs?
Did you check your ground? That's the first thing I can think of my friend
@@TechInsomnia I'll check it out today thank you brother
I’m having bit of a PROBLEM with mines I been fiddling with it for days trying to set it so my bass is kicking ssa BUT it’s not I feel like with out the LC and just the amp me messing with my bass & gains made the bass hit harder although “the lc made it much clearer CLEANING IT UP it’s hitting much lower” so I’m like WTF I’m trynna sound like a donk with my car slappin and seems like money wasted( I have kicker the red kind 1000 watt speaker each & 1200 watt amp) so I thought let me see what happens if I unplug one of the bass outputs as soon as I unplugged it boom bass hitting good real good but need just a lil more action plug it back in it gets dim again ? So now I’m riding with one plug in the bass output and max input ….. anyone can trouble shoot the problem.? Also the way I’m using it my bass knob does not work unless I plug them both back into output
Check your signal taps and make sure you have a good solid tap that is tapped in two different places with two different wires if possible. Also try using good quality oxygen free pure copper speaker wire as you tap/signal input wires. Another thing could be the input terminals. I will usually cut jut a tiny bit extra and fold over the copper ends and hold them in firmly as I tighten the LC2i speaker input terminals. Depending on your amp the bass knob could be bass boost or output level so be careful with that one. Another really good tip for great results with Audio Control LOC's or DSP's is to use Monster Cable RCA's if possible. Night and day results for a wider range of lower/deeper frequencies on almost every car I've ever made the swap in. Let me know if any of this helps and if not, I've got more for you my friend. 🙏
If you have an aftermarket HU you won’t need the line output converter. Right????
Yes Sir! Correct 💯 Just make sure your RCA Pre-Out Signal is 4 volt or higher for so you can keep the gain lower on your amp and that will help to give you a better result. 🙏
@@TechInsomnia any advice for the second amp for the highs? Can I replace the factory amp without losing other functions like GPS?
Here's a question for you... Do they or is their a device that is or has rather a 3.5mm jack that I can connect my flash drives to? Like I had said on another feed I have numerous flash drives that obtain a LOT of DJ Rusticalls music. Now, I haven't even begun to tune the LC2I-PRO yet as I just got the install complete late last night. Definitely can tell where the bass begins to roll off. So I presume I will just have to play with it a bit. Now, the subs I have in there currently are lower end as if something were to go pop from my error, I'm not worried about them vs. putting a couple higher end ones I have until I understand fully the fundamentals of this LOC. Appreciate any feedback that may help me get it right and at its best performance. Gonna play with the RCA'S AND Then amp inputs to see what my DD1+ SAYS AND some other things I can think of. But like I had said I am new to this part as I am adding a middle man so to speak with stock head unit, amp and subs. Would love to chat more with you on another platform since you clearly understand the technology of this pretty neat device. Let me know, all respect!
Hey there!! All things are good... Accept when I turn on the car there's a POP sound. Other than that all is good! Any thoughts???
Try this my friend 🙏 www.audiocontrol.com/knowledge-base/im-getting-turn-off-pop-installed-product/
@TechInsomnia , I've already considered moving the deck from my truck to the car as it will fit according to Crutchfield and going with a new unit in the truck, but priorities come before pleasure so it may be a minute for that one. I'm having an enclosure custom made for the truck so gotta have that ready for spring. Sound is pretty clear honestly it's the rattle that's gonna go bye-bye! I've got phenomenal sound deadener I use, but it's a bit cold out here and as impatient as I am I'll just crank the heat up when ready to put it in and roll it down!
@TechInsomnia , I've got the grounds connected into the Amp together and the 1/0 ground is to the body (done right!) If I were running a larger amp say my 3k I would run from the XS under the hood. Resistance is something I want to double check to be sure I'm within ohm parameters which by experience of multiple systems I am confident with where it is located. Accords are a unibody and don't have a "Frame" , so I went where the seats fold down there are steel braces on each side where trunk meets back seats. Pulled the 5 bolts, removed the paint and primer slid the 1/0 lug between the brace and body bolted back down couple shots of clear coat and walla! Not to mention factory small ground bolt was near, so for good reason did the same to that one and the back side of the trunk one as well! Re-did or added a 1/0 very short ground from block to chassis, battery to factory ground under hood, and 1/0 from Alt to battery to complete a BIG 3. Don't want to get carried away with this one, but am gonna get a 200amp alt from my guy at Brand X as it's stock and well, old! Factory premium sound is pretty good I'd say like having single 1" tweets at ear level, too! What can I say, I love car audio, it's just fun. Today, I'm gonna mess with the LPF and the subsonic as they aren't high end subs but they do thump nicely for a daily driver. Unfortunately I only have a 3.5mm jack input in the console ordered a jack/USB adapter not sure if it'll play though. Yea, gonna need a deck, it's inevitable!
Can I use both outputs at the same on the lc2i pro??
Yes. The top RCA will be full frequency and the lower RCA will be lower end (bass) output. Hope this helps my friend. 🙏 It really is a great piece of equipment.
How did you power yours? I know it's a 12v constant, but what exactly did you connect yours to? And what gauge wire? Did you use a 1A inline fuse, as recommended?
Can’t remember the exact gauge but all wires were a gauge or too thicker just to be safe and I used a high quality 1a inline fuse in full rubber housing. I just piggy backed off my amplifier and ram the power wire right to the power terminal of my amp but distribution block might be a better idea if your powering more than 1 amp. Hope this helps my friend. 🙏
@@TechInsomnia thanks! i used a 1amp inline fuse and taped into my amps power supply. this unit is installed on a 2021 kia sedona. man i really wanted to have better luck with this unit, but im struggling to get the output right. keep in mind, my other car has a full system installed that i installed, pioneer double din, dsp, sb acoustic cpeakers in the doors and a-illars, 2 10" morels in the trunk. all high audiophile grade parts. its sounds phenominal! i'd like to believe i have the skills to EQ the lc2i pro, but i just cant get the sound right. i've tried everything that has been recommended by youtube videos and even techs from the audio control. the issue im having is, the bass cuts in and out at different volumes. it will sound powerful and hit hard in one bar, and then the next bar be off. it makes no sense to me. for some sounds, the bass also seems like it kicks in faster than it should, like the timing is off, does that make sense?
my OEM system DOES NOT roll off so I turned the accubass all the way off. my skar amp gain is about 5v, and the gain on the lc2i is about half. i think the next thing im going to try is to rewire the speaker leads directly to the OEM wires instead of using T- connectors, per your recommendation. next thing is to upgrade the RCA cables. im currently using a really cheap one, but I still feel like it should get the job done. the last thing i want to try is use audiocontrols "bass knob" instead of the bass knob from my skar amp. can you think of any other reason i might be getting strange output? the amp doesnt appear to be clipping. i would be shocked if the subwoofer was bad, its an sb acoustic 10" sub, and they have the best quality control on the market.
Great system and the parts you've mentioned are all top notch! This is a tricky one. Swapping out the T-Taps for a straight wire to wire connection can help but not sure if that's the cause of your problem. OFC cable? Are you using the signal sense option for remote turn on on your LC2i Pro? If so switch to a straight remote wire from your Head Unit. I've had so many issues with different cars using the signal sense for turn on that I don't even try anymore and just always run a remote wire now. That could be the issue but maybe not. How are your highs being powered? Amp or HU? also is your LC2i supplying signal for both amplifiers if you have two or just bass for bass amp? Keep the info coming and we will figure this out my friend. 💪💯💯
@@TechInsomnia Thanks so much for your help i appreciate it! the speaker wire is OFC. yes i am using the signal sense. I ended up buying the lc2i-pro so i can use their bass knob instead of the knob on my skar sub amp. so when I hook up the lc2i pro, I'll wire in a "remote on". i didn't think of that being an issue but that might be it. also, the audiocontrol is connected to an OEM radio on a 2021 kia sedona using the rear left and right speakers. so the 4 speakers in the sedona are being powered by the OEM radio, and the lc2i pro will be tapped into the rear left and right, make sense? there is no aftermarket amp for the stock speakers......yet!
Ok that makes sense now my friend. In newer 2021 cars when tapping to stock amp output the signal sense seems to only power on the LC2i Pro fully when there is actually audio or data being transmitted. This could just be the unique case in two cars I've done with that setup recently but I noticed on one that was only tapped into the stock sub line when the bass started to hit the Pro would detect data (signal) and turn on thus missing the first half of the note and unless more bass followed in that song, the unit would turn back off again. Running a remote wire kept the LC2i on whenever the car was on and output was never interrupted on both cars after that. Try it. Nothing to lose. You can tap a USB charger in the car if you have one. Also good not to use signal sense for cars that have ANC because sometimes long after the car is off the head unit will still be sending information through the speakers for whatever reason and that can keep you LC2i and amplifiers hooked to it, on. Just a good thing to keep in mind. 🙏 Let me know how it goes 🤞
Mines only gives single on one side of the rcas like the right side only not the left side
Try bridging the LC2i input terminals like I've done in this video. Let me know if there is a difference in sound for you my friend 🙏
ua-cam.com/video/YYLTdtmKI_Y/v-deo.html
I wish I understood all this. I just had LC2 installed in my Tacoma, still issues.
How's it running now my friend?
I have a 2017 chrysler 300 S with 2 memphis mojo 2 ohm 12's with a db drive 1000.1 mono amp and i use the LC2I PRO LOC. When you use the LC2I PRO you want to see what your factory unit settings need to be before setting the LC2I PRO. The manual will show you what settings to use on what car manufacturer
Would I still need a battery isolator with an Audio battery
If on the pro you can still use the ISO switch. Never tried with secondary battery but in almost every setup I've ever done with and LC2i Pro or Audio Control Pro product, the ISO option works best at least in my experience. 🙏
How do I hook up with a Sony Ford F-350 factory amp and stereo?
If your adding subwoofers you'll want to tap speakers as close to where the subs are going and make sure they are woofers or speakers that can play the low bass frequency. That way you have the right frequency range to output through the LC2i to your subwoofers.
@@TechInsomnia yeah so I’ll tap into the factory subwoofer. Perfect. Thank you
My pleasure 🙏 This may be of help if you're tapping the subwoofer line and using LC2i 💯
ua-cam.com/video/SbYwPbNwHDg/v-deo.html
@@TechInsomnia thank you. Yeah I’m gonna be using the LC2i Pro.
Do you have a link for the monster cable RCA's?
I wish. I just get mine in Amazon.
Yeah but there's multiple RCA's that pop up when you type in monster rca cables
amzn.to/3LZvUv1
amzn.to/42GguBU
Try these my friend 🤞
I notice the acu-bass increases the output voltage.
Likewise. As amazing as the idea of the technology is, I've found it's better turned off on many cars. It works but it does increase distortion as well.
@@TechInsomnia I will keep that I mind.
Some noteworthy tips, good stuff. Been running one in an 8th gen camry (JBL) and finally took the plunge to grab the front speaker signal the other night. Such a shame that JBL decided to cross the stock sub at sub-bass levels. The loss of 61hz-80hz+ was driving me mad. Nonetheless, I still haven't figured out how to tune the accubass smoothly, so I decided to keep it always on. I measured the output voltage at +10 volume above my absolute max listening volume and it measured around 3.5 volts (compensating for automatic sound levelizer). I also kept the LC2i bass knob at 50% when tuning because of the ridiculous variety of sound quality from music from the 70s to today, and the HU source qualities (SXM is the loudest). This crazy-by-ear-with-few-voltage-readings tune has my alpine amp turned all the way DOWN and somehow it works pretty well. I'm always chasing cleaner sound, especially after taking time to custom build an enclosure, drop decent money on driver(s), and the never ending sound deadening project, so I'll have to disable accubass this weekend and see if there's room for improvement.
Very well done my friend. We are the same in always pursuing cleaner sound! 💯 It's a process experimenting with this thing because so many factors can change the end result. Things I've learned recently is you can try turning the bass level down into the negative to get a cleaner undistorted max volume out of your source and it will in turn allow you to turn your LC2i output level higher cleaning things up even further if you interior speakers are hooked directly to you head unit because you'll be removing bass from them while sending the LC2i a cleaner bass signal that you can amplify (restore) at the LC2i itself. Just make sure your LC2i's output voltage at max volume before the maximized light isn't higher than the max input voltage for your amplifier. Another thing I've learned is it's better to use a distro block even if they are small separate power and ground blocks and not piggyback the LC2i of an amp if it can be avoided. Cleaner input that way too. Another thing I did was get rid of the taps and ran two speaker wire pairs directly to the mono output straight wire from my harness adapted for my OEM amp to my LC2i input. OFC only always. Especially for signal. I had one speaker wire before and jumped (doubled) it at the LC2i speaker input but two separate wires running directly from the OEM amp gave me a wayyyyy better even CLEANER signal. You might already know all this. I might make another video soon. Hope this helps you my friend and let me know how it turns out. 🙏
Show the actual unit and how to set up. This is not good just talking.
Bra pulling over 50 times..i thought it was just me
It's all of us to this day still 💯 Even the rare few with fancy DSP's are still pulling over 😅