Your videos almost make me want to get another BMW! I am wondering why in the heck this channel hasn’t taken off, you do a great job of explaining why and then showing how. Keep up the great work I’m convinced it will pay off for you. Thanks, DC
Dan Thank You! You have been supporting me for a long time and I appreciate you. Yes... get a BMW and start spending crazy amounts of money one it lol!
So when the Hobbs switch detects 15psi it jumps the terminal- grounds from the engine ground to the relay ground “completes the circuit or grounds the relay” (not to sure how it completely works) so then the relay can close and give the power to the secondary pump which is already grounded to our battery terminal?
Hey, I followed this and I can hear the pump turn on and everything when jumping the hobbs switch, but my remote tuner says secondary pump isn’t turning on. Is there anyway to know for sure? I hooked up an led light like you did and it also turns on when jumped.
@@BOO5Tchannel yes I can hear it. I guess I should open it to check my connections in case a hose came loose. I did the install awhile ago but didn’t get an e85 tune until recently.
@@BOO5Tchannel so I checked wiring and removed the lpfp today and there’s nothing obvious that could be wrong. Only thing I noticed from your wiring that’s different is the white relay wire goes directly to the +12v battery but Fuel It has it going to the DME 12v “trigger”, is what they call it. Not sure if that would be a potential issue.
Thanks for doing this, as I also have found NOTHING online about how to fix this problem. So I really appreciate your putting some info out there on this. I was just getting ready to run two pumps all the time, and wasn't thinking about overheating the module. Now, you mentioned where you bought the fuel pump, but I didn't see anything about where you bought the hobs switch and wiring? I have a Spool Performance Stage 2 LPFP in my 335i, and it works fine in normal conditions. But it falls on it's face when I push it hard. So I have another Walbro 450 at the house, and feel like that will give me all I need if wired up with this same hobs switch. But I need to know where you got the hobs switch, module and specific wiring? Also, if my memory serves, you aren't too far from me, as I'm in Cola. Would you be interested in a visit? I'd love to come talk to you about it. Thanks.
Hey yes I remember... so the Hobbs and wiring came from fuel it as options. You can definitely come visit for a talk. The wiring is not too hard, just need to get a stage 2 or 3 with that option
Hey, I have a question about the wiring here. I was told by fuel-it that the red trigger wire, that you have hooked up to the Hobbs switch, needs to be hooked up to 12v power. I just finished the install and whenever my car is running, the pump is running/LED is illuminated. Are the red/black wires you have connected to the Hobbs switch two separate wires?
@@BOO5Tchannel thanks for the reply. I have the same hobbs switch as you, one of the ports on the hobbs is connected to ground. my question is about the trigger wires
Right now, I have the red trigger wire hooked up to 12v, and the black one hooked up to the hobbs switch. Is this the correct way to do it, or should I have both trigger wires connected to one port on the hobbs?
I'm wondering if I have it setup incorrectly, because right now as soon as I turn the car on I hear the 525 going and my LED lights up, even just at idle without any boost
@@BOO5Tchannel Probably ran into you around town one time. Anyway, I have a BMW 2020 M4 convertible, picked it up after Christmas. I am doing some Carbon fiber tweaks but have no plan yet for performance upgrades. My question to you is how to you balance your upgrades? If you upgrade air intake, then you need to do something for the exhaust? Seems like there is an art to making the car run correctly after upgrades. Keep up the interesting videos! Have productive week!
vonfragyou well I would say it’s a balance of budget lol, but if you start with a downpipe you can go stage 2, I am pretty sure M4 has air to water intercooler so no issues there, downpipe is the limitation if you want to go to stage 2, do that first followed by whatever you want, like intake next.
@@BOO5Tchannel will do, thanks! Your video is the most descriptive by far lol, I'm basing your install on hiw it will go on my 2012 caprice. Looks like it will be very similar
hey, coming from Thic f30 channel, had a doubt about tunning a bmw series 4 430 and still have to buy one and tune it but idk anything about tunning and never had a bmw. Need help about what to change from stock and is it gonna be reliable for the car. Thanks, insane car that u have!
Hey man thanks, I don’t know much about the 430 because it’s the 4 cylinder version but I would say bolt on like charge pipe, down pipe, and intercooler is your first mods to go stage 1 and stage 2... reliability is pretty safe at stage 1 or 2 from what I hear about those engines which I think is the N20. Thanks for the comment!
@@BOO5Tchannel Why do you say its better for 550+hp ? I am waiting on my stage 3 lpfp for my n55 but the reason I sprung for it was the added benefit of not needing an upgraded ekp?
Nekahplz This is directly from the site: BPM4 communicates directly with the DME and is able to drive one, two or even three Walbro 525's under full DME control. This ability to run multiple high-capacity aftermarket pumps while maintaining full DME control over the low pressure closed loop control system that the vehicle was designed with, is something no other solution on the market offers.
How are those vmr wheels holding up for you? I think its been half a year since you changed it. I see lots of comments on the website said that vmr wheels are easily to be broken and the coat will start to fall of somehow? I's like to buy a set of vmr but just wondering if I should since i saw those comments...and also, i saw ur vid that u got your vmr with tires on? do they install the tires with the wheel and delivered it to you?
So far mine are good, I put 600hp to them with no issues. Coat seems to be holding up well. I am actually looking for a set of 437M wheels as a 2nd set too. I bought them mounted balanced and with TPMS sensors as a whole wheel and tire option, took 8 weeks with my custom color
Hi can you help me Since I removed my 350L aeromotive pump for the 450L walbro I have a too high voltage fault, do you have a solution. 335i 2010 N55 e92 thank you
Ok cool. I’m trying to learn a bit more about the lpfp so is that with all cars? Or just your setup , like if I put In a new aftermarket pump with relay and no Hobbs switch , will it cause damage? Or the low voltage from car will send signal to relay when needed? Thanks again bro.
Sorry just saw this, it’s the setup not all cars. You need or Hobbs switch or a fuel controller no Hobbs on stock controller will burn up the controller quick.
Doing my fuel system on my single turbo e93 right now and this saved my life. No one else did a video like this especially on our cars
Hey man it was a 30amp 12v basic relay that are sold for cars they can basically be used for fuel systems, radiator, etc
Hats off! You’re a true gentleman, thank you for this...saved me a LOT of time.
Thank you!
Your videos almost make me want to get another BMW! I am wondering why in the heck this channel hasn’t taken off, you do a great job of explaining why and then showing how. Keep up the great work I’m convinced it will pay off for you.
Thanks,
DC
Dan Thank You! You have been supporting me for a long time and I appreciate you. Yes... get a BMW and start spending crazy amounts of money one it lol!
Awesome video, very detailed top notch man
Thanks!
So when the Hobbs switch detects 15psi it jumps the terminal- grounds from the engine ground to the relay ground “completes the circuit or grounds the relay” (not to sure how it completely works) so then the relay can close and give the power to the secondary pump which is already grounded to our battery terminal?
Correct, the ground is the trigger.
Hey, I followed this and I can hear the pump turn on and everything when jumping the hobbs switch, but my remote tuner says secondary pump isn’t turning on. Is there anyway to know for sure? I hooked up an led light like you did and it also turns on when jumped.
So when you jump it, you can hear the noise of the pump turning on?
@@BOO5Tchannel yes I can hear it. I guess I should open it to check my connections in case a hose came loose. I did the install awhile ago but didn’t get an e85 tune until recently.
@@BOO5Tchannel so I checked wiring and removed the lpfp today and there’s nothing obvious that could be wrong. Only thing I noticed from your wiring that’s different is the white relay wire goes directly to the +12v battery but Fuel It has it going to the DME 12v “trigger”, is what they call it. Not sure if that would be a potential issue.
Thanks for doing this, as I also have found NOTHING online about how to fix this problem. So I really appreciate your putting some info out there on this. I was just getting ready to run two pumps all the time, and wasn't thinking about overheating the module. Now, you mentioned where you bought the fuel pump, but I didn't see anything about where you bought the hobs switch and wiring? I have a Spool Performance Stage 2 LPFP in my 335i, and it works fine in normal conditions. But it falls on it's face when I push it hard. So I have another Walbro 450 at the house, and feel like that will give me all I need if wired up with this same hobs switch. But I need to know where you got the hobs switch, module and specific wiring? Also, if my memory serves, you aren't too far from me, as I'm in Cola. Would you be interested in a visit? I'd love to come talk to you about it. Thanks.
Hey yes I remember... so the Hobbs and wiring came from fuel it as options. You can definitely come visit for a talk. The wiring is not too hard, just need to get a stage 2 or 3 with that option
Hey, I have a question about the wiring here. I was told by fuel-it that the red trigger wire, that you have hooked up to the Hobbs switch, needs to be hooked up to 12v power. I just finished the install and whenever my car is running, the pump is running/LED is illuminated.
Are the red/black wires you have connected to the Hobbs switch two separate wires?
The Hobbs switch should be connected to ground once the connection is made it will ground and give power to the system
@@BOO5Tchannel thanks for the reply. I have the same hobbs switch as you, one of the ports on the hobbs is connected to ground. my question is about the trigger wires
Right now, I have the red trigger wire hooked up to 12v, and the black one hooked up to the hobbs switch. Is this the correct way to do it, or should I have both trigger wires connected to one port on the hobbs?
I'm wondering if I have it setup incorrectly, because right now as soon as I turn the car on I hear the 525 going and my LED lights up, even just at idle without any boost
Yes that’s definitely not wired right remember that ground is your trigger
Do you have a link to the relay used?
It’s been a while everyone sells relays though even Amazon
I have mine wired the same as you, but it only works if I jump the Hobbs terminal. It doesn’t work under actual boost?
Mine is wired to ground trigger, wire in a led to see when it triggers to know for sure
Did u figure this out? I have the same issue
@@AS-sq2yu I just had to adjust the Hobbs switch
What drill size did you use? You had to thread it afterwards to screw that hobbswitch on right? Did you use any threadlock or some sort to seal it?
1/8 NPT is most of your drilling for intakes etc and yes use Teflon or tread seal
@@BOO5Tchannel thank you
Do you have a link for the led light with wires ? Very smart idea and want to do the same!
Sure thing here it is!
amzn.to/3jWQBHo
What is the fail safe for when hobs switch fails?
Hey, the light I have installed... if light does not fire means fuel pump is not firing which usually means Hobbs is not working. Thanks!
nice install Chris.
Thank you bro, I keep making these videos for people like you! Send it!
@@BOO5Tchannel Your work at Siemens?
vonfragyou No I am a self employed contractor
@@BOO5Tchannel Probably ran into you around town one time. Anyway, I have a BMW 2020 M4 convertible, picked it up after Christmas. I am doing some Carbon fiber tweaks but have no plan yet for performance upgrades. My question to you is how to you balance your upgrades? If you upgrade air intake, then you need to do something for the exhaust? Seems like there is an art to making the car run correctly after upgrades. Keep up the interesting videos! Have productive week!
vonfragyou well I would say it’s a balance of budget lol, but if you start with a downpipe you can go stage 2, I am pretty sure M4 has air to water intercooler so no issues there, downpipe is the limitation if you want to go to stage 2, do that first followed by whatever you want, like intake next.
Hi just looking to wire in this set up on my supercharged e92 m3. Great video. Can I ask why you didn't T the hobb switch into a vaccum line?
No vacuum lines on a N55 it makes no vacuum it is unique in that way, but every source i found says manifold to read proper boost pressure
@@BOO5Tchannel oh OK that makes perfect sense then 👌
@@BOO5Tchannel hi man did you wire the white wire direct to the battery terminal?
@@AS-sq2yu I no longer have car so can’t remember but look up a diagram
What wattage fuse and relay do u use?
30amp basic telay
So does the main 12v supply come right off the battery? I guess im confused on where your getting your 12v supply from.
Yes battery, you can pull up a Hobbs switch wire diagram on google but it’s fairly simple overall if it’s your first time use a diagram
@@BOO5Tchannel will do, thanks! Your video is the most descriptive by far lol, I'm basing your install on hiw it will go on my 2012 caprice. Looks like it will be very similar
@@BOO5Tchannel where did you purchage the hobbs switch? Most of them I see on amazon only have 1 wire mounting place on them
@@LukeWaters I think fuelit.com but was part of my fuel pump kit
@@BOO5Tchannel right on, I found one off amazon lol
Question for the hob switch the wire going from it to the battery did u buy that or did it come with the kit?
To be honest I do not remember I don’t think so though I have a lot of wire I keep from 10awg-22awg
@@BOO5Tchannel ok so the blk n red wire for the hobs switch why is it 2 wires since it connects to 1 wire from the rely?
Thx
@@zanmasterr it’s ground and power so not 1 wire
Does the hobswitch come with all the wording and crimps or did you buy that yourself
I think I bought it myself can’t remember
Why does it have 2 12v supplies? Is one triggered by ignition?
All relays have 2 12v and the trigger is the ground if done correctly some trigger 12v but not a great idea
@@BOO5Tchannel okay so the Hobbs switch stays on all the time? It doesn’t have a key one ignition source?
@@BOO5Tchannel sorry I’m not good with wiring
@@modlist6129 not necessarily it’s triggered by hitting the boost it’s set for mine triggered the ground at 15 psi
@@BOO5Tchannel thanks a lot man I understand it well now!
Where did you get the relay ?
You can get one anywhere Amazon, Jegs, anywhere it’s a basic relay
Good video no cap
Thanks man
hey, coming from Thic f30 channel, had a doubt about tunning a bmw series 4 430 and still have to buy one and tune it but idk anything about tunning and never had a bmw. Need help about what to change from stock and is it gonna be reliable for the car. Thanks, insane car that u have!
Hey man thanks, I don’t know much about the 430 because it’s the 4 cylinder version but I would say bolt on like charge pipe, down pipe, and intercooler is your first mods to go stage 1 and stage 2... reliability is pretty safe at stage 1 or 2 from what I hear about those engines which I think is the N20. Thanks for the comment!
Where can I buy the Hob switch and the relay?
Google one it’s a generic switch everyone sells one
Do you need to upgrade the EKP with the dual pump set up?
You don’t “need” to but it is better to have one for 550+ hp. I will get one once I get my build nearing the end. Good question!
@@BOO5Tchannel Why do you say its better for 550+hp ? I am waiting on my stage 3 lpfp for my n55 but the reason I sprung for it was the added benefit of not needing an upgraded ekp?
Nekahplz This is directly from the site: BPM4 communicates directly with the DME and is able to drive one, two or even three Walbro 525's under full DME control. This ability to run multiple high-capacity aftermarket pumps while maintaining full DME control over the low pressure closed loop control system that the vehicle was designed with, is something no other solution on the market offers.
How are those vmr wheels holding up for you? I think its been half a year since you changed it. I see lots of comments on the website said that vmr wheels are easily to be broken and the coat will start to fall of somehow? I's like to buy a set of vmr but just wondering if I should since i saw those comments...and also, i saw ur vid that u got your vmr with tires on? do they install the tires with the wheel and delivered it to you?
So far mine are good, I put 600hp to them with no issues. Coat seems to be holding up well. I am actually looking for a set of 437M wheels as a 2nd set too. I bought them mounted balanced and with TPMS sensors as a whole wheel and tire option, took 8 weeks with my custom color
Hi can you help me
Since I removed my 350L aeromotive pump for the 450L walbro I have a too high voltage fault, do you have a solution. 335i 2010 N55 e92 thank you
No idea man that’s outside my expertise sorry. May be your fuel pump control module think it’s called a ekpm
@@BOO5Tchannel ah ok no problem merci
NICE VIDEO!... DOES THE LPFP SUPPOSE TO RUN CONSTANT? I HAVE AN AUDI B8.5 AND WANT TO INSTALL A WALBRO 450 WITH THE RELAY,,
Hello it does not run constantly, it’s on a hobbs switch which kicks on at 15 psi the secondary pump
Ok cool. I’m trying to learn a bit more about the lpfp so is that with all cars? Or just your setup , like if I put In a new aftermarket pump with relay and no Hobbs switch , will it cause damage? Or the low voltage from car will send signal to relay when needed? Thanks again bro.
Sorry just saw this, it’s the setup not all cars. You need or Hobbs switch or a fuel controller no Hobbs on stock controller will burn up the controller quick.
@@BOO5Tchannel no problem I got it do e a few days again. Thanks
Wow thanks bro
Do you need to tune it or does the switch already turn on the second pump when you hit 15psi?
No tune should trigger when the switch feels 15psi, there are different psi pressure switches other than 15 also
Ur vidz are the sh*t bro!
I appreciate it bro thanks for your support!!
Do you have the link for the relay ?
It’s a basic relay sold on Amazon or parts store