A man spends 41.05 mins of his precious time on top of the time editing making a informative video and there are numerous comments about it being TOO informative smh. I am just a self taught diyer without a mechanical/ electrical background and was able to follow the information. There are plenty of short form tiktok videos available to serve those with goldfish like attention spans us adults truly value detailed information more than 30 aeconds long!!! Thank you very much for your time and energy. Don't give energy to negative people you don't owe ANYONE a explanation for giving your time and expertise. Hands down the most informative video on using test lights and great examples of real world uses. Thank you for your time and energy in making this video.
This is definitely a very informative video unfortunately for me I’m just not there yet with my knowledge but I’m getting there. Love diagnosing wiring issues but he lost me many times throughout the video. That just tells me I have a lot to learn and hopefully one day I’ll be able to follow along and catch it all. People think because they can’t follow along that it’s a bad video, on the contrary… the video is perfect guys like me that just can’t comprehend yet. I will one day, always learning and these videos help! 👍🏻
I get a cap from a spray can, drill a hole in it and glue the lamp in it. So now you don't have to worry about burn spots from the 💡, excellent video again!!
Check out this circuit tracer. It finds the LOCATION of the short/ground/ bad connection and break in the circuit!!! IT'S Not just a circuit tracer! ua-cam.com/video/LWHKXohQ5Eo/v-deo.htmlsi=8HNKyGzXurbSRZRW
Fact is you took your time out and went through this showing voltage, voltage drop and amps using bulbs. That puts a clear picture in ones mind how does an electricity play a part. That means a lot and truly appreciate you put this together, very informative. Thank you for showing us.
Check out this circuit tracer. It finds the LOCATION of the short/ground/ bad connection and break in the circuit!!! IT'S Not just a circuit tracer! ua-cam.com/video/LWHKXohQ5Eo/v-deo.htmlsi=8HNKyGzXurbSRZRW
Extended class in finding shorts to ground with a test light. Great job, Jake! I particularly liked the idea of powering the faulty circuit from the relay socket, to avoid having the ignition on.
Check out this circuit tracer. It finds the LOCATION of the short/ground/ bad connection and break in the circuit!!! IT'S Not just a circuit tracer! ua-cam.com/video/LWHKXohQ5Eo/v-deo.htmlsi=8HNKyGzXurbSRZRW
Check out this circuit tracer. It finds the LOCATION of the short/ground/ bad connection and break in the circuit!!! IT'S Not just a circuit tracer! ua-cam.com/video/LWHKXohQ5Eo/v-deo.htmlsi=8HNKyGzXurbSRZRW
Great demonstration. I like that once you found the short at the tcm, you proved that it wasn’t down stream from the module. One thing many forget to do. I enjoy watching your videos. They sometimes give me a quicker or more accurate way to diagnose. Once again awesome job
Well Jake very informative video but I should not be watching it at 10pm . My eyes are open but my brain is sound asleep. Lol I’ll watch it again in the am. Thanks for sharing. 👍 Artie
Great thorough examples of current flow, your definitely up there with Pine Hollow, Eric O', Super Mario etc and other great diagnosticians. I hope your UA-cam channel grows & grows.👍🙂
Check out this circuit tracer. It finds the LOCATION of the short/ground/ bad connection and break in the circuit!!! IT'S Not just a circuit tracer! ua-cam.com/video/LWHKXohQ5Eo/v-deo.htmlsi=8HNKyGzXurbSRZRW
EXCELLENT! Straight to the point, no long drawn out Ohms Law dribble. Great visuals. You should change the name of your channel to, 'Horse Sense Diagnostics' 🤪 Giddy Up!
This is the best information I have found on UA-cam concerning the correlation between Voltage drop and rogue current paths in DC circuits. Very well explained It's interesting that you added the tip about using thermal imagery, to pinpoint the heat signature of the excessive resistive areas in a circuit. I finally was able to afford an entry level thermal camera, and while summing all the possible uses of that device, finding temperature variations in DC circuits was among the most beneficial for automotive diagnostics for the 12 V. circuit. Of course there are many other ways to take advantage of the awesome power of thermal imaging, but it is good to hear someone bring to light the benefits of adding that device to the electronics art of automotive service and repair. Your manner of informing the viewer is very impressive and your on scene demeanor is professional. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us, and I will be looking forward to viewing all you wish to present to us.
Great job on the video.Thanks for making it. This is the most comprehensive video on troubleshooting electrical shorts with a test light I've seen. You didn't just go into how to do it but also covered how it all works with the voltage drops and current flow.
This guy has a very good understanding of electricity and electrical circuits because not only does he do it, but also does a very good job of explaining it. A lot of technicians can do this stuff but either can't explain it or have a tough time explaining it to others. This guy explained it flawlessly (except for the 20 mA...lol j/k). This might be too complicated for beginners and even some experienced techs to understand but this is exactly what you want to strive to be at. Once you understand everything he's explained in this video you will have a very good understanding of Voltage drops and current flow when troubleshooting an electrical short with a test light.
Couldn't help but be grateful for what you have shown in this video spending your precious time. it was one of the great vids that explains how the voltage drop and current limiting occur in a circuit. Thank you, keep going!
Great video. I've used a ''dim bulb tester'' on old Tube type Ham Radio Transceivers when powering up a radio in unknown condition. If it lights up bright theres a bad short somewhere. I never thought of doing the same in automotive circuit faults. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for helping me learn. I had a bad airbag module and your videos helped me figure it out. I don’t see how I would have ever found that without learning this stuff
excellent video my friend. and a very good way to find shorts indeed . one caveat i would add is low and understated what current that circuit can take . seen a fella beck in the day use a high amp bulb . found the short ok because it was smoking 🤣🤣🤣🤣 did need some wire repair work on that one . but seriously when you get your head around the method it’s an awesome way of finding shorts . plus i loved the way you showed how to test the output side of it to , just to check its not something on that side . like you said you need to be mindful of what is still in circuit that might consume the load your testing with 👌
also you can add the old style flasher relay to a horn or sound device it will honk the horn or sound device on and off as an audible alert. so if you cant see the light while under a car ,when sound stops u no you have taken the short away. try and show that set up for people to see
For the love of God, too many wires, too many bulbs, too many meters. I'm an electrical engineer and I understand everything you said. Simply demonstrate with the test light that ground is on the other side of the fuse when it should not be. Connect the test light to the battery and probe the none power side of the fuse holder. If the light turns on there is a path to ground. Disconnect the modules one at a time. If the light turns off after disconnecting then the module is shorted to ground.
@@hayzersolar sorry this video isn’t for people without a good understanding of electrical flow. My other video “how to find a short with a light bulb” is very basic and only uses a test light. This video was mean for the people that watched that video and requested more detail and explanation.
@@autodiagyt no worries some videos will go over people's heads for me it was too much of nothing. If you would have a real case and was walking us through it then it would be awesome. South main auto Eric is the best at real life situation and walks you through it.
Nice video and explanation the only thing my brain is struggling with is the spaghetti of leads. It’s hard to keep track of what is plugged in to what since there were multiple test lights and meters.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge I’ve learnt a lot from watching your videos along with pine hollow, scannerdanner and all the other great diag channels out there
I have diagnosed a million circuits for shorts or failed components in the computer repair industry over the past 25 yrs, and another hundred or so in mentoring High School Robotics over the last decade plus, and have a great understanding of exactly everything you just said and showed in your video (though I would have taken the rough of divide and conquer and always split every circuit in half...unplug in the middle, test one side, then the other, then split the offending circuit in half again (no need to even test the good side again), to find the good quarter, bad quarter, etc, rinse and repeat, since you know the other 3/4's is good, and boil it down to 1/8th, 1/16th, 1/32, eventually finding the harness short or component failure. It is just faster than tracing from battery all the way through a full circuit beginning to end. Like I said, I understand the diagnosis method, and all the tools you used, and the math behind it all (without any actual formal education in electronics or electrical engineering or diagnosis), but, what you just taught me is, without having good known good operating swap in electrical components to replace questionable components to help with the diagnosis, to actually disconnect all components from the harness first, jump across the gaps w/ leads, then test the harness first, if no faults are found, you can now test just the components next. If harness faults are found, then you will have no need to even look at the components, so no need for the addl. good known components, at least until you have repaired or replaced the harness. Then, once that harness is repaired, just disconnect from fathest away, the harness jumpers, replacing or reinstalling the components 1 by 1, until all work, or you find an offending component, and if you find one (usually damaged from the harness short), then you may have a need to have an extra good known component to add in place of a suspect component. It is the same process I have used to find buggy software in a computer registry forever. Just open the startup folder in the registry, turn off half the startup items, boot it, if the issue no longer exists, shut off the other half, turn on the other half as the issue will be there on next boot up, then turn off half again on only the offending half, if there again, turn off half again, until you find the offender software program. Each time you are just getting rid of all the searching time for more of what you need to find. And looking for shorts can be done faster using that divide by 2 process a ton faster. If I had to track down a short though in an automobile (and I did not have extra parts and components to swap in), you within a certainty would with your basic understanding of current, volts, amps, and all your basic though extensive, test lights, and multiple multi-meters available and collected by you, would be my go to guy to have you track it down. Then, I would take your extensive diagnosis and fix it. I appreciate your painstaking detail of finding a short in a car, as that is tough, as you have shown. You have the patience and perseverance of an auto electrical God! I worked on a neighbors Toyota truck that had an issue similar, a dead short in a circuit, that was even tougher to track down, and I never did so much work ever on a single circuit in my life, as it was in a brake light circuit farthest from the batter/under hood fuse and power distribution block, and it would fix and fail 3 times (over time), before I found it under dash, as someone had miswired up a replacement turn signal wand. That repair alone took lots of hrs to trace out, and we threw minor parts and rewiring at it along the way to a real final solution. I also used 8 test lights and 3 meters and a dozen jumpers on the harness at one point doing the half/half divide and conquer method to track down where the offender was located. It was flat out maddening. We finally replaced every headlight and tail light pigtail in the vehicle before we found that backward wiring issue under the dash leading to that multi-use turn signal wand (so the mis-wiring caused a couple of further shorts or overheats at a couple of the actual sockets). Once those were replaced, we found the dead short not long after. It took the patience of a Saint, and I nearly threw up my hands twice and told him to take it to an electrical guru, but I said ok, let me try again, and again. Until we fixed it.
INTVITIVE, Automotive Diagnostics Programming Tutorial 'Outstanding ' from the start to finish loved it 👍 Bottle of water 💧 very good for your body, enjoy your weekend From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 13:20 Good Afternoon
An inexpensive tool is the use of a fuse socket connector kit . GTC 063 , General Technologies Corporation . 5 piece kit . Amazon $20.00 8/15/24 Manufactured in Canada . Set your hot test bulb on a small floor tile . Appreciate your time on this diagnosis , Thank You !
Need to rewatch video a few times. But a quick question. The side of the fuse box without the power you tested. If I’m getting 2.3 volts on that side is that a short to power? With 1 lead of meter connected to ground and that side on fuse pin with fuse removed, with meter set to volts. If car matters it’s a 2012 VW CC.
That could be a few things. Water/corrosion in a connector or module causing a voltage back feed, or it could be voltage stored in capacitors inside a module. Went you see that use a small test light like a 194 bulb(250ma) to load it and see if the the voltage goes away.
great video jake!!!! one of the things i found is there are times you have to contort into a limited space where you cant see a bulb or meter.. i had modified a warning chime module from mack that would give me an audible signal.. you learned to be fast as the other guys in the shop wanted to kill you yet they wouldnt help you or if they did you never knew if they were just messing with you. yeah paybacks a bitch lol. it was far better for finding opens on trailer wiring using bybass wire method but a few times it was a lifesaver on shorts.
A lot of guys like a buzzer but my brain has gotten so used to key dingers and things that it ignores them unless I’m focused on the sound. So if I’m focusing too much on the area I’m working or if the noise is on constantly my brain just tunes it out. So for me a bulb with extension leads is best for me.
Very good. Wish you found the real short to ground...we only know TCM, Tranny Control Module. Were there green crusties in the TCM side of the connector or under the cover ? To many modules get disgarded for no reason. For the beginner in a school environment it would be best to have a schematic drawn out , so you can describe how the connections are being made. Those plastic connectors you push in and out make it hard to visualize the flow, sometimes in parallel and sometimes in series and sometimes both !
No visible damage to the TCM. What ever is shorted on the board isn’t noticeable. To further test and repair it would be more cost then the replacement salvage yard module.
Interesting... i have a "fuse saver" i hook up in place of the fuse and unplug each item in the circuit until it no longer trips the braker, helps pinpoint the section of wire if the component isn't the issue. I understand why you made the video, but man this was hard to follow for me. Based off your comment section a lot of people benefited from it though. And i still watched your video. Lol
Yeah I'm basically doing the same thing except instead of the breaker that lets full current instantly flow I'm using a light bulb that limits the current to what I allow and then look for the light bulb to turn off.
I was shocked at Rainman Ray's video where he melted the FLUKE test leads AND the vehicle wiring harness. I also couldn't believe the comment section where viewers were impressed that he found the short while overlooking the carnage. I brought this up in our HScope Telegram forum. Your video on the heels of Ray's isn't a coincidence, I suspect. I rank you right up there on current limiting while troubleshooting shorts. And it was your combined use of voltmeters + test lights that inspired my GADGETS#186 a while ago.
Rainman Ray doesn't even have a basic understanding about electrical circuit troubleshooting. He doesn't care though. He's laughing all the way to the bank. I bet he's videos, which are crap compared to this one, get a lot more views.
I love watching your videos but dang this was confusing only because I don't get it I'm not much of an electrical guy but I would really love to learn more I watch your videos everyday
It's not you. The vast majority of mechanics/technicians have a tought time understanding electricity and electronics. Take your time. Watch more videos and ask question on here or on Quora.
@@bernardocisneros4402 I couldn’t keep up with all of the lead changing. It seemed to be a very confusing way to explain current flow , voltage drops , etc . . When diagnosing and repairing I have my own way of thinking and know there a ton nuances in every task . Example : I’m working on a 95 f150 today which is a study in history . My OBD1 stuff must be around here somewhere . LOL
Very detailed Jake! I get it, but unfortunately most other people do not have a multimeter let alone all the test leads, test bulbs and test connectors etc. It can be very intimidating to the average DIY’er to troubleshoot at this level, even on a 4-pin harness vs a 20-pin one, that’s when the parts cannon gets fired. In this instance replacing the TCM worked, but what made it fail? That should to be addressed also. Nice work Jake!
So at first I thought this vehicle was a lightening strike vehicle but no the alternator regulator is gone and it was getting close to 30 volts when you reved the engine. It has a bad TCM, ECM, abs, airbag module and a wiper switch.
Jake, please tell me if I am wrong. Let's say I have a circuit that has a dead short somewhere in it (I just do not know where), and it is a complicated circuit, headlights, high and low beams, tail lights, brake lights including 3rd brakelight, turn signals, towing lights plug, etc. Say it is a 20 Amp circuit. And I start at distribution block, and unplug and jumper every plug In the harness, right down to the last ground in the farthest light socket, halfway to the end I introduced a 10 Amp test bulb, put the multi- meter in just before the last ground and it reads 10 amps, that proves the harness is good correct? If so, I can discount the harness as an issue, start re-attching all the other grounds working backwards, still no issues, then it must be a component plugged in, and as I add those components back in and find a different result (it is probably that component I need a swapping component for)? I am just taking what I learned from you and adding in a time saver to the same result in half the time with fewer testing equipment costs. Jumper wires and test lights are cheaper (and easier to make up), than collecting a bunch of meters. And finding out that a harness is good first (or tracking down a dead short in one), will lead to fewer failed components or worse a fire caused. I once bought a car to race, cheap transmission cooling line crack repair, for 200 bucks, great car, but unbelievably the car had an issue I knew nothing about, a dead short in a tail light circuit, it kept blowing fuses on him, and unbeknownst to me, he had taken a blown glass fuse ACC type, and wrapped a foil wrapper for a stick of gum around it, and I found out at my very first night bracket race (first time I ever drove the car in darkness), and the very first time I actually turned on the headlight/tailight circuit, and drove the car at full throttle (of course with the alternator putting out all the (90), charging amps possible), right at the 1/4 mile 1,320' mark that my under dash fuse block was a ball of flame, now lapping up out of the right defroster plug and had flames going up the inside of the safety glass windshield hitting the passenger side visor. I stopped the car in the grass, jumped out, opened the hood, stood up in the engine bay and with sheer determination ripped the ground cable off that battery. Just about that time, the windshield blew out, safety glass shards everywhere (hood up saved me from a glass shower), just as the safety crew arrived and spraying white powder all over my black interior, and my engine bay. It took a year and a lot of trips to pick-a-parts in SoCal to rewire the car headlights to tail lights, and all points in between. I learned tons about auto electrical systems, and that dead shorts (even if not your direct fault), can be costly, very costly, and fix them fast, but fix them correctly. And that proper fusing is very important (zero shortcuts), there. I was furious when the safety crew guy, who was an actual in real life fire investigation guy w/ a local Fire Dept., found the offending wrapper (the ash film at least, that he could still read the words Juicy Fruit under a magnifying glass), wrapped around that fuse. My fault though, I boughtTrans. I wanted used but really cheap, that had another issue besides a simple cracked steel cooling line for his auto trans., and electrical issues can be really expensive and dangerous especially dead shorts. And they can ruin even your best day if they end in wire overheats and flames at speeds in excess of 90 mph.
Hey Jake I just stolen the way You marked amp draw on the connector instead of the jacket of the bulb holder (genius) Why I never thought of that. Jake I enjoy all your videos CHEERS I like substituting bulbs for loads mainly for voltage drops . Also use bulbs with solder t pins.VD=IxR
Yeah but where are you getting the banana jacks to build your lights. Working on a 06 bmw 530xi, parasitic draw. Close to a amp. The rl2 or teminal 30 relay is staying energized and cR access system is still awake. The seats still have power and light for the shifter stays on. Im new to alldata so it takes me forever to find what im looking for but if i unplug the relay it goes right down to .030.
Would you do a tutorial on how you selected and constructed the connector set you use? For a novice knowing more about constructing the test tools is a big deal
Label that last book, a hot time on a Saturday night....needless to say, my first bracket race round win, was not as much fun as it could have been. It wasn't drivable to make the second round.
In a lot of cases the jumping the relay is the easiest way to get power to the fuse but in this case I would have used power from the battery to the load side of the fuse. Also I seen comments saying you didn't talk ohms law dribble and your entire video shows ohms law at work and the better you understand ohms law the easier this type of work is and I know you know that but some viewers don't.
Yeah I don’t get into ohm’s testing and stuff because it will only tell you the correct thing on a good circuit or that you have a definite bad circuit, but there are instances where it tells you the circuit is good but in reality it’s not. So I try to avoid doing test that can give a false good reading.
@autodiagyt I wasn't talking about using ohms to test a circuit I was talking about ohms law and knowing how resistance voltage and amperage affect each other
Great video but too many leads, meters, bulbs all over the place makes it a bit hard to follow- keep it simple. A hand drawn diagram could really help. Thank you for explaining
@@autodiagyt Thank you- a little too detailed LOL. The lamp current current draw discussion was useful. Don't use a high current bulb in order to protect the circuit. Like the thermal camera idea- wish the prices would come down
@@georgerocks5191 topdon has a thermal camera for your phone that’s pretty reasonable. Ivan at Pine Hollow done a good comparison video of phone thermal cameras last year you might could watch.
Yes I watch everything as I'm editing. This was intended for techs with a pretty good understanding of electrical. Just watch it again knowing the bulb is allowing the current to flow a limited amount and the meters are just there to give measurements.
@@autodiagyt So, it is high resistance that keeps it from blowing the test light but when the bulb gets old, the resistance must go down which is why the bulb blows?
@@autodiagyt You really put alot of time and examples into this video to show how a short works and I thank you very much for that and for answering my questions.
I have another video showing the same thing but simplified. It's has a lot of comments and emails asking for a more detailed explanation of what I'm doing and how it works. It's more for learning the mechanics at play with this testing method.
This guy is giving you invaluable information for free and you still find something to complain about. How about just watching the video, writing down questions while watching it, and asking those questions.
Let me state that I know you are not primarily a teacher and your channel is near the very top of my listing to follow and archive into my private library. I believe that teachers in any form, the purpose of this video, should not leave the obvious forgotten when that point in the program is at hand, this also means practice is required, and a second person to review the video is recommended before publishing. I consider correctness as best as possible to protect one's reputation, I did only read a couple of comments and saw some negativity, I would want to avoid that if possible at any level. I watched a well known YT Channel do some instruction at the most basic level of electronics and he totally screwed it up big time, I made some strong complaints in his comments as when this improper training for beginner viewers was completed, he mentioned that he has to go get another hour approved to continue the diagnosis, OMG, he would have been fired from my shop and sued by the owner if they would have seen that video, WTF. In the Mazda, you showed more in-depth OEM Schematics and while explaining, you did not point out additional connectors but you did mention the possibility of shorted wires and overall harness (OK, eventually made it to connectors). I only mention it because AM Diagrams do not normally show connectors. Typically the OE shows connectors and there can be shorts there as well such as green crusties/water, someone previously pushing a test light probe in too hard and creating a short to the pin next to the test point (see DiagnoseDan after a previous shop), or overheated pins burning to the pin next to each other through the plastic connector, etc. The multimeter and scope are both high-impedance devices and may not be good for finding partial shorts, as your video is teaching, a real load is needed. Also, a high-impedance device is not good enough to prove a 5VRef vs a 5V BIAS without the test light load that will pull down the BIAS easily. I have referred your videos to other techs which show your test lights SHUNTED across the multimeter banana jacks for what I consider the best way to load a circuit, a plain and simple setup that we all need even if we need to build it ourselves. Now this video will be my primary link to share. Your incorrect module lying on the floor reminds me of the same mistake. Back in the day on a Mitsubishi when the ECMs had problems with leaking CAPs, I pulled the module, as a matter of course, since they were a Pattern Failure from about 1988 to 1994. I was in Japan and called a repair facility in the USA and gave the module number which they said was the TCM, not the ECM so I went back and pulled the ECM, it also had leaky CAPs and I sent both modules in for repair after the owner approved the full job. Location of both modules deep up under the center console, damn. In your next iteration of a DEEP DIVE into your system here, you can do the math of how your bulbs and the components such as solenoids each consume power based on each item resistance, series or parallel connections, and do the math for total resistance, power sharing, current splitting and VD for each component if you feel froggy? Love everything that you do as a diagnostician, some high-level very useful training in many of your videos Jake, much appreciated, as mentioned, this video will get high praise from me, cheers.
You can be a hack like a coworker and replace the fuse with a bigger untill it doesn't blow and then have a fire behind the dashboard and wreaking a 2012 car instead of just replacing the fuse with an H7 headlight bulb like i do and look with a thermal camera to find the cable that is slightly heating up to find the actual fault. He's super mad every time i mention him burning a car that DROVE in for a radio fault that It's HIS FAULT that the car got wrecked and say's there wasn't any other way to find the fault.... 🙄
![2010 Sonata No Start [What are we missing?]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2n1kQBSHb7A/mqdefault.jpg)
![2010 Sonata No Start [What are we missing?]](/img/tr.png)
A man spends 41.05 mins of his precious time on top of the time editing making a informative video and there are numerous comments about it being TOO informative smh. I am just a self taught diyer without a mechanical/ electrical background and was able to follow the information. There are plenty of short form tiktok videos available to serve those with goldfish like attention spans us adults truly value detailed information more than 30 aeconds long!!! Thank you very much for your time and energy. Don't give energy to negative people you don't owe ANYONE a explanation for giving your time and expertise. Hands down the most informative video on using test lights and great examples of real world uses. Thank you for your time and energy in making this video.
Thanks you for the super thanks and more importantly thank you for watching the video and being able to follow along.
@@autodiagyt your very welcomed
@@danielledurnen2272 thankyou daniel you are amazing and visionary
I agree
This is definitely a very informative video unfortunately for me I’m just not there yet with my knowledge but I’m getting there. Love diagnosing wiring issues but he lost me many times throughout the video. That just tells me I have a lot to learn and hopefully one day I’ll be able to follow along and catch it all. People think because they can’t follow along that it’s a bad video, on the contrary… the video is perfect guys like me that just can’t comprehend yet. I will one day, always learning and these videos help! 👍🏻
I get a cap from a spray can, drill a hole in it and glue the lamp in it. So now you don't have to worry about burn spots from the 💡, excellent video again!!
Greetings: It melts and burns the cap 1st.
Great video! I also have a buzzer set up so when under a vehicle I listen for it to quit when the short is located. Thanks for sharing.
Check out this circuit tracer. It finds the LOCATION of the short/ground/ bad connection and break in the circuit!!! IT'S Not just a circuit tracer! ua-cam.com/video/LWHKXohQ5Eo/v-deo.htmlsi=8HNKyGzXurbSRZRW
What buzzer are you using if you don't mind me asking? That would be awesome because I walk around a lot checking my meter/light
Fact is you took your time out and went through this showing voltage, voltage drop and amps using bulbs. That puts a clear picture in ones mind how does an electricity play a part. That means a lot and truly appreciate you put this together, very informative. Thank you for showing us.
Check out this circuit tracer. It finds the LOCATION of the short/ground/ bad connection and break in the circuit!!! IT'S Not just a circuit tracer! ua-cam.com/video/LWHKXohQ5Eo/v-deo.htmlsi=8HNKyGzXurbSRZRW
Extended class in finding shorts to ground with a test light. Great job, Jake! I particularly liked the idea of powering the faulty circuit from the relay socket, to avoid having the ignition on.
Check out this circuit tracer. It finds the LOCATION of the short/ground/ bad connection and break in the circuit!!! IT'S Not just a circuit tracer! ua-cam.com/video/LWHKXohQ5Eo/v-deo.htmlsi=8HNKyGzXurbSRZRW
@@motosystemltd I don't understand what you're trying to say. Can you please elaborate?
VERY COOOOOOOOOOOOOL ,,,,,,,,,,, FULLY UNDERSTAND LIKE USING A BUZZER AND THERMAL IMAGER PLEASE KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK !!!!!!!! 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Check out this circuit tracer. It finds the LOCATION of the short/ground/ bad connection and break in the circuit!!! IT'S Not just a circuit tracer! ua-cam.com/video/LWHKXohQ5Eo/v-deo.htmlsi=8HNKyGzXurbSRZRW
Great demonstration. I like that once you found the short at the tcm, you proved that it wasn’t down stream from the module. One thing many forget to do. I enjoy watching your videos. They sometimes give me a quicker or more accurate way to diagnose. Once again awesome job
Well Jake very informative video but I should not be watching it at 10pm . My eyes are open but my brain is sound asleep. Lol I’ll watch it again in the am. Thanks for sharing. 👍 Artie
Thank you for taking so much of your time to make this video (as well as the rest of your videos). It is greatly appreciated! Greetings from the UK
Jake, thanks for contributing to our community
Tremendous video / coaching !
Thanks for special edition extended lesson . 👊🏼 🔥
🧰💻📈💡
Great video, ignore the haters. Good explanation on using a bulb to restrict current flow in the circuit to enable testing
Great thorough examples of current flow, your definitely up there with Pine Hollow, Eric O', Super Mario etc and other great diagnosticians. I hope your UA-cam channel grows & grows.👍🙂
Pine Hollow is hard to beat...
@@georgerocks5191 Pine Hollow is good but not above a lot of these guys.
This was an excellent video. Worth weight in gold.
Check out this circuit tracer. It finds the LOCATION of the short/ground/ bad connection and break in the circuit!!! IT'S Not just a circuit tracer! ua-cam.com/video/LWHKXohQ5Eo/v-deo.htmlsi=8HNKyGzXurbSRZRW
EXCELLENT!
Straight to the point, no long drawn out Ohms Law dribble.
Great visuals.
You should change the name of your channel to, 'Horse Sense Diagnostics' 🤪
Giddy Up!
Great idea mentioning the use of the heat sensing to find the short
This is the best information I have found on UA-cam concerning the correlation between Voltage drop and rogue current paths in DC circuits.
Very well explained
It's interesting that you added the tip about using thermal imagery, to pinpoint the heat signature of the excessive resistive areas in a circuit. I finally was able to afford an entry level thermal camera, and while summing all the possible uses of that device, finding temperature variations in DC circuits was among the most beneficial for automotive diagnostics for the 12 V. circuit. Of course there are many other ways to take advantage of the awesome power of thermal imaging, but it is good to hear someone bring to light the benefits of adding that device to the electronics art of automotive service and repair.
Your manner of informing the viewer is very impressive and your on scene demeanor is professional.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us, and I will be looking forward to viewing all you wish to present to us.
Great job on the video.Thanks for making it. This is the most comprehensive video on troubleshooting electrical shorts with a test light I've seen. You didn't just go into how to do it but also covered how it all works with the voltage drops and current flow.
This guy has a very good understanding of electricity and electrical circuits because not only does he do it, but also does a very good job of explaining it. A lot of technicians can do this stuff but either can't explain it or have a tough time explaining it to others. This guy explained it flawlessly (except for the 20 mA...lol j/k). This might be too complicated for beginners and even some experienced techs to understand but this is exactly what you want to strive to be at. Once you understand everything he's explained in this video you will have a very good understanding of Voltage drops and current flow when troubleshooting an electrical short with a test light.
Couldn't help but be grateful for what you have shown in this video spending your precious time. it was one of the great vids that explains how the voltage drop and current limiting occur in a circuit. Thank you, keep going!
Great video. I've used a ''dim bulb tester'' on old Tube type Ham Radio Transceivers when powering up a radio in unknown condition. If it lights up bright theres a bad short somewhere. I never thought of doing the same in automotive circuit faults. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for helping me learn. I had a bad airbag module and your videos helped me figure it out. I don’t see how I would have ever found that without learning this stuff
excellent video my friend. and a very good way to find shorts indeed . one caveat i would add is low and understated what current that circuit can take . seen a fella beck in the day use a high amp bulb . found the short ok because it was smoking 🤣🤣🤣🤣 did need some wire repair work on that one . but seriously when you get your head around the method it’s an awesome way of finding shorts . plus i loved the way you showed how to test the output side of it to , just to check its not something on that side . like you said you need to be mindful of what is still in circuit that might consume the load your testing with 👌
also you can add the old style flasher relay to a horn or sound device it will honk the horn or sound device on and off as an audible alert. so if you cant see the light while under a car ,when sound stops u no you have taken the short away. try and show that set up for people to see
great video Jake going to have to watch this one a few more time to fully absorb everything
Great lesson on basic circuit troubleshooting! No reason to apologize for content like this.
For the love of God, too many wires, too many bulbs, too many meters. I'm an electrical engineer and I understand everything you said. Simply demonstrate with the test light that ground is on the other side of the fuse when it should not be. Connect the test light to the battery and probe the none power side of the fuse holder. If the light turns on there is a path to ground. Disconnect the modules one at a time. If the light turns off after disconnecting then the module is shorted to ground.
This video is meant to be very in depth. The basic video on the Nissan is exactly what you just said.
I have a short to ground on my truck. Your explanation makes sense.his is confusing thanks for chiming in
@@hayzersolar sorry this video isn’t for people without a good understanding of electrical flow. My other video “how to find a short with a light bulb” is very basic and only uses a test light. This video was mean for the people that watched that video and requested more detail and explanation.
@@autodiagyt no worries some videos will go over people's heads for me it was too much of nothing. If you would have a real case and was walking us through it then it would be awesome. South main auto Eric is the best at real life situation and walks you through it.
This is not for Electrical Engineers…
Nice video and explanation the only thing my brain is struggling with is the spaghetti of leads. It’s hard to keep track of what is plugged in to what since there were multiple test lights and meters.
Yeah that’s why I was trying to say the path the current is going
Thank you for this video. Good way for testing circuits.
Great educational video,love to see more of that!
that was the video we all have been waiting for, thanks.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge I’ve learnt a lot from watching your videos along with pine hollow, scannerdanner and all the other great diag channels out there
I have diagnosed a million circuits for shorts or failed components in the computer repair industry over the past 25 yrs, and another hundred or so in mentoring High School Robotics over the last decade plus, and have a great understanding of exactly everything you just said and showed in your video (though I would have taken the rough of divide and conquer and always split every circuit in half...unplug in the middle, test one side, then the other, then split the offending circuit in half again (no need to even test the good side again), to find the good quarter, bad quarter, etc, rinse and repeat, since you know the other 3/4's is good, and boil it down to 1/8th, 1/16th, 1/32, eventually finding the harness short or component failure.
It is just faster than tracing from battery all the way through a full circuit beginning to end.
Like I said, I understand the diagnosis method, and all the tools you used, and the math behind it all (without any actual formal education in electronics or electrical engineering or diagnosis), but, what you just taught me is, without having good known good operating swap in electrical components to replace questionable components to help with the diagnosis, to actually disconnect all components from the harness first, jump across the gaps w/ leads, then test the harness first, if no faults are found, you can now test just the components next.
If harness faults are found, then you will have no need to even look at the components, so no need for the addl. good known components, at least until you have repaired or replaced the harness. Then, once that harness is repaired, just disconnect from fathest away, the harness jumpers, replacing or reinstalling the components 1 by 1, until all work, or you find an offending component, and if you find one (usually damaged from the harness short), then you may have a need to have an extra good known component to add in place of a suspect component.
It is the same process I have used to find buggy software in a computer registry forever.
Just open the startup folder in the registry, turn off half the startup items, boot it, if the issue no longer exists, shut off the other half, turn on the other half as the issue will be there on next boot up, then turn off half again on only the offending half, if there again, turn off half again, until you find the offender software program. Each time you are just getting rid of all the searching time for more of what you need to find. And looking for shorts can be done faster using that divide by 2 process a ton faster.
If I had to track down a short though in an automobile (and I did not have extra parts and components to swap in), you within a certainty would with your basic understanding of current, volts, amps, and all your basic though extensive, test lights, and multiple multi-meters available and collected by you, would be my go to guy to have you track it down.
Then, I would take your extensive diagnosis and fix it. I appreciate your painstaking detail of finding a short in a car, as that is tough, as you have shown. You have the patience and perseverance of an auto electrical God! I worked on a neighbors Toyota truck that had an issue similar, a dead short in a circuit, that was even tougher to track down, and I never did so much work ever on a single circuit in my life, as it was in a brake light circuit farthest from the batter/under hood fuse and power distribution block, and it would fix and fail 3 times (over time), before I found it under dash, as someone had miswired up a replacement turn signal wand. That repair alone took lots of hrs to trace out, and we threw minor parts and rewiring at it along the way to a real final solution. I also used 8 test lights and 3 meters and a dozen jumpers on the harness at one point doing the half/half divide and conquer method to track down where the offender was located. It was flat out maddening. We finally replaced every headlight and tail light pigtail in the vehicle before we found that backward wiring issue under the dash leading to that multi-use turn signal wand (so the mis-wiring caused a couple of further shorts or overheats at a couple of the actual sockets). Once those were replaced, we found the dead short not long after.
It took the patience of a Saint, and I nearly threw up my hands twice and told him to take it to an electrical guru, but I said ok, let me try again, and again. Until we fixed it.
Yes I divide up the circuit when there is inline connectors but on this particular circuit there isn’t any.
Dang, your comment is longer than the video...lol😂
Great video Jake , thanks for sharing and giving your time , good job
Nice technique and tutorial. Thank you Jake!
INTVITIVE, Automotive Diagnostics Programming
Tutorial 'Outstanding ' from the start to finish loved it
👍
Bottle of water 💧 very good for your body, enjoy your weekend
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 13:20 Good Afternoon
Great job explaining and sharing!
Thanks!
Another great informative diagnostic. Thanks.
Thanks Jake.the bulb is the load allowing the flow of current
An inexpensive tool is the use of a fuse socket connector kit . GTC 063 , General Technologies Corporation . 5 piece kit .
Amazon $20.00 8/15/24 Manufactured in Canada . Set your hot test bulb on a small floor tile . Appreciate your time on this diagnosis , Thank You !
Great instructional demo Jake!
Great video man ive been having trouble wrapping my head around this but i got it now. The lightbulb finally went off🤣
Wait! I thought the light bulb was supposed to go on!
@@romanpendzich1781 depends on which light bulb lol
😂
@@romanpendzich1781
You have to clap your hands to make it go on ! 💡👏🏼
😉
@@romanpendzich1781 depends where your from🤣
Great video very informative thanks for sharing learnt a lot from you over the years.
A great way to find shorts ..i was told points of contact on harness on potential shorts .. Thanks for the videos and information
i love this guys education .its amazing . well done sir you are teaching us amazing life changing course .its worthy of subscription .awesome
It's my pleasure!
Hi Jake, please make a playlist for easy way to finde those and other videos on that topic.
Thanks you for your work.
I will try to one day.
Need to rewatch video a few times. But a quick question. The side of the fuse box without the power you tested. If I’m getting 2.3 volts on that side is that a short to power? With 1 lead of meter connected to ground and that side on fuse pin with fuse removed, with meter set to volts. If car matters it’s a 2012 VW CC.
That could be a few things. Water/corrosion in a connector or module causing a voltage back feed, or it could be voltage stored in capacitors inside a module. Went you see that use a small test light like a 194 bulb(250ma) to load it and see if the the voltage goes away.
Excellent keep these coming more great learning
great video jake!!!! one of the things i found is there are times you have to contort into a limited space where you cant see a bulb or meter.. i had modified a warning chime module from mack that would give me an audible signal.. you learned to be fast as the other guys in the shop wanted to kill you yet they wouldnt help you or if they did you never knew if they were just messing with you. yeah paybacks a bitch lol. it was far better for finding opens on trailer wiring using bybass wire method but a few times it was a lifesaver on shorts.
A lot of guys like a buzzer but my brain has gotten so used to key dingers and things that it ignores them unless I’m focused on the sound. So if I’m focusing too much on the area I’m working or if the noise is on constantly my brain just tunes it out. So for me a bulb with extension leads is best for me.
GREAT JOB JAKE
Very good. Wish you found the real short to ground...we only know TCM, Tranny Control Module. Were there green crusties in the TCM side of the connector or under the cover ? To many modules get disgarded for no reason. For the beginner in a school environment it would be best to have a schematic drawn out , so you can describe how the connections are being made. Those plastic connectors you push in and out make it hard to visualize the flow, sometimes in parallel and sometimes in series and sometimes both !
No visible damage to the TCM. What ever is shorted on the board isn’t noticeable. To further test and repair it would be more cost then the replacement salvage yard module.
Interesting... i have a "fuse saver" i hook up in place of the fuse and unplug each item in the circuit until it no longer trips the braker, helps pinpoint the section of wire if the component isn't the issue. I understand why you made the video, but man this was hard to follow for me. Based off your comment section a lot of people benefited from it though. And i still watched your video. Lol
Yeah I'm basically doing the same thing except instead of the breaker that lets full current instantly flow I'm using a light bulb that limits the current to what I allow and then look for the light bulb to turn off.
I was shocked at Rainman Ray's video where he melted the FLUKE test leads AND the vehicle wiring harness. I also couldn't believe the comment section where viewers were impressed that he found the short while overlooking the carnage.
I brought this up in our HScope Telegram forum.
Your video on the heels of Ray's isn't a coincidence, I suspect.
I rank you right up there on current limiting while troubleshooting shorts. And it was your combined use of voltmeters + test lights that inspired my GADGETS#186 a while ago.
I've not seen Rays video. I'll have to look up your 186 video.
Oh man that was painful to watch... Hopefully he finds one of my videos.
Rainman Ray doesn't even have a basic understanding about electrical circuit troubleshooting. He doesn't care though. He's laughing all the way to the bank. I bet he's videos, which are crap compared to this one, get a lot more views.
@@bernardocisneros4402 a lot of Rainman Ray's work is quite good. He is a very hard working guy. And always so upbeat.
just keep him away from wires!
Awesome!! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for great work and information 😊
I love watching your videos but dang this was confusing only because I don't get it I'm not much of an electrical guy but I would really love to learn more I watch your videos everyday
It's not you. The vast majority of mechanics/technicians have a tought time understanding electricity and electronics. Take your time. Watch more videos and ask question on here or on Quora.
I have a two year degree in electronics and have trouble shot for fifty years . This was confusing to me it’s not you .
@@Papawcanner You having a 2 year degree in electronics and 50 yrs of experience, I have to ask: which part or parts were confusing to you?
@@bernardocisneros4402 I couldn’t keep up with all of the lead changing. It seemed to be a very confusing way to explain current flow , voltage drops , etc . . When diagnosing and repairing I have my own way of thinking and know there a ton nuances in every task . Example : I’m working on a 95 f150 today which is a study in history . My OBD1 stuff must be around here somewhere . LOL
@@Papawcanner thanks and good luck with the F-150
A simple explanation about substituting a fuse with a bulb. If not you would blow alot of fuses while looking for the short to ground.
Well done 👍
Very detailed Jake! I get it, but unfortunately most other people do not have a multimeter let alone all the test leads, test bulbs and test connectors etc. It can be very intimidating to the average DIY’er to troubleshoot at this level, even on a 4-pin harness vs a 20-pin one, that’s when the parts cannon gets fired. In this instance replacing the TCM worked, but what made it fail? That should to be addressed also. Nice work Jake!
So at first I thought this vehicle was a lightening strike vehicle but no the alternator regulator is gone and it was getting close to 30 volts when you reved the engine. It has a bad TCM, ECM, abs, airbag module and a wiper switch.
exselente dianostic y mui buena prueba master
Thank you for this video
Great splanation, thanks
Loved it.
Cheers
Excellent video, thank you! Can you tell me what specific kind of banana jacks you're using using with the light bulbs attached to them?
They are linked on my Amazon store.
Jake, please tell me if I am wrong. Let's say I have a circuit that has a dead short somewhere in it (I just do not know where), and it is a complicated circuit, headlights, high and low beams, tail lights, brake lights including 3rd brakelight, turn signals, towing lights plug, etc.
Say it is a 20 Amp circuit. And I start at distribution block, and unplug and jumper every plug In the harness, right down to the last ground in the farthest light socket, halfway to the end I introduced a 10 Amp test bulb, put the multi- meter in just before the last ground and it reads 10 amps, that proves the harness is good correct?
If so, I can discount the harness as an issue, start re-attching all the other grounds working backwards, still no issues, then it must be a component plugged in, and as I add those components back in and find a different result (it is probably that component I need a swapping component for)? I am just taking what I learned from you and adding in a time saver to the same result in half the time with fewer testing equipment costs. Jumper wires and test lights are cheaper (and easier to make up), than collecting a bunch of meters. And finding out that a harness is good first (or tracking down a dead short in one), will lead to fewer failed components or worse a fire caused.
I once bought a car to race, cheap transmission cooling line crack repair, for 200 bucks, great car, but unbelievably the car had an issue I knew nothing about, a dead short in a tail light circuit, it kept blowing fuses on him, and unbeknownst to me, he had taken a blown glass fuse ACC type, and wrapped a foil wrapper for a stick of gum around it, and I found out at my very first night bracket race (first time I ever drove the car in darkness), and the very first time I actually turned on the headlight/tailight circuit, and drove the car at full throttle (of course with the alternator putting out all the (90), charging amps possible), right at the 1/4 mile 1,320' mark that my under dash fuse block was a ball of flame, now lapping up out of the right defroster plug and had flames going up the inside of the safety glass windshield hitting the passenger side visor. I stopped the car in the grass, jumped out, opened the hood, stood up in the engine bay and with sheer determination ripped the ground cable off that battery.
Just about that time, the windshield blew out, safety glass shards everywhere (hood up saved me from a glass shower), just as the safety crew arrived and spraying white powder all over my black interior, and my engine bay.
It took a year and a lot of trips to pick-a-parts in SoCal to rewire the car headlights to tail lights, and all points in between. I learned tons about auto electrical systems, and that dead shorts (even if not your direct fault), can be costly, very costly, and fix them fast, but fix them correctly. And that proper fusing is very important (zero shortcuts), there. I was furious when the safety crew guy, who was an actual in real life fire investigation guy w/ a local Fire Dept., found the offending wrapper (the ash film at least, that he could still read the words Juicy Fruit under a magnifying glass), wrapped around that fuse.
My fault though, I boughtTrans. I wanted used but really cheap, that had another issue besides a simple cracked steel cooling line for his auto trans., and electrical issues can be really expensive and dangerous especially dead shorts. And they can ruin even your best day if they end in wire overheats and flames at speeds in excess of 90 mph.
Bought the car I wanted, ....not Trans...
Hey Jake I just stolen the way You marked amp draw on the connector instead of the jacket of the bulb holder (genius) Why I never thought of that. Jake I enjoy all your videos CHEERS I like substituting bulbs for loads mainly for voltage drops . Also use bulbs with solder t pins.VD=IxR
Thanks man. Awsome
Yeah but where are you getting the banana jacks to build your lights. Working on a 06 bmw 530xi, parasitic draw. Close to a amp. The rl2 or teminal 30 relay is staying energized and cR access system is still awake. The seats still have power and light for the shifter stays on. Im new to alldata so it takes me forever to find what im looking for but if i unplug the relay it goes right down to .030.
Amazon link in the description
What sockets and bulbs do you use?
194, 3157, h13 is the main ones.
@@autodiagyt thanks
Would you do a tutorial on how you selected and constructed the connector set you use? For a novice knowing more about constructing the test tools is a big deal
I think I have a short video on them. I know I do on tiktok for sure
Very useful ..... thank you
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO.
Grasias
Label that last book, a hot time on a Saturday night....needless to say, my first bracket race round win, was not as much fun as it could have been. It wasn't drivable to make the second round.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for sharing amigo
In a lot of cases the jumping the relay is the easiest way to get power to the fuse but in this case I would have used power from the battery to the load side of the fuse. Also I seen comments saying you didn't talk ohms law dribble and your entire video shows ohms law at work and the better you understand ohms law the easier this type of work is and I know you know that but some viewers don't.
And great video keep up the great content
Yeah I don’t get into ohm’s testing and stuff because it will only tell you the correct thing on a good circuit or that you have a definite bad circuit, but there are instances where it tells you the circuit is good but in reality it’s not. So I try to avoid doing test that can give a false good reading.
@autodiagyt I wasn't talking about using ohms to test a circuit I was talking about ohms law and knowing how resistance voltage and amperage affect each other
Good ideas.
Thanks for the vid
great video.
Where do you get your wire conditioner at? Keep up the good work ❤
Conditioner?
❤❤❤
so if you had a short to ground that would blow a 10A fuse and you put a 2A bulb in front of the fuse would it still blow the fuse
That is correct. If it's in series with the fuse it limits the current to 2 amps.
Great video but too many leads, meters, bulbs all over the place makes it a bit hard to follow- keep it simple. A hand drawn diagram could really help. Thank you for explaining
The simple video was the Nissan and I’ve gotten a lot of comments and emails asking for a more detailed explanation.
@@autodiagyt Thank you- a little too detailed LOL. The lamp current current draw discussion was useful. Don't use a high current bulb in order to protect the circuit. Like the thermal camera idea- wish the prices would come down
@@georgerocks5191 topdon has a thermal camera for your phone that’s pretty reasonable. Ivan at Pine Hollow done a good comparison video of phone thermal cameras last year you might could watch.
How do you hook the bulb up to the fuse that's blowing to detect the short
It is just put in place of the fuse.
Where can I buy the 2 amp lamp you have?
Pretty much any parts store. It's a 3157 and the matching bulb socket.
Thanx Jake 🤙
A schematic of what your measuring would have been easier to follow. Also where do you get the bulb with the connectors.
The banana jack ends are on my Amazon page and the bulb pigtails I just got at the parts store.
Have you ever sat and watch this video back, has some realy good stuff but and yes there is the but it got to complicated to early to messy.
Yes I watch everything as I'm editing. This was intended for techs with a pretty good understanding of electrical. Just watch it again knowing the bulb is allowing the current to flow a limited amount and the meters are just there to give measurements.
That's because you're a beginner.
Why is it that because the circuit has a direct short to ground and blows the fuse but doesn't blow the test light?
The resistance of the test light only allows so much current to flow.
@@autodiagyt So, it is high resistance that keeps it from blowing the test light but when the bulb gets old, the resistance must go down which is why the bulb blows?
@ bulbs don’t really blow like a fuse does. They usually just get brittle and break apart and actually increase in resistance with age.
@@autodiagyt You really put alot of time and examples into this video to show how a short works and I thank you very much for that and for answering my questions.
@@meblake7359wear and tear on the filament. As the bulb ages, the filament begins to break down, until eventually it fails.
My brain hurts , will have to go back to thick tok, 😵💫👍👍👍👍🙂🙂
so the bulb is your overload protection limiting the damage that can be done.
Yes
👍
How do I get Free wiring diagram
I'm not sure. I pay for my service information.
I knew it was the TCM once you disconnected the relay, the short went away
Why not a grounded wire or something?
I think you have made it so hard with this bulbs there should have been easier example
I have another video showing the same thing but simplified. It's has a lot of comments and emails asking for a more detailed explanation of what I'm doing and how it works. It's more for learning the mechanics at play with this testing method.
This guy is giving you invaluable information for free and you still find something to complain about. How about just watching the video, writing down questions while watching it, and asking those questions.
Let me state that I know you are not primarily a teacher and your channel is near the very top of my listing to follow and archive into my private library. I believe that teachers in any form, the purpose of this video, should not leave the obvious forgotten when that point in the program is at hand, this also means practice is required, and a second person to review the video is recommended before publishing. I consider correctness as best as possible to protect one's reputation, I did only read a couple of comments and saw some negativity, I would want to avoid that if possible at any level. I watched a well known YT Channel do some instruction at the most basic level of electronics and he totally screwed it up big time, I made some strong complaints in his comments as when this improper training for beginner viewers was completed, he mentioned that he has to go get another hour approved to continue the diagnosis, OMG, he would have been fired from my shop and sued by the owner if they would have seen that video, WTF.
In the Mazda, you showed more in-depth OEM Schematics and while explaining, you did not point out additional connectors but you did mention the possibility of shorted wires and overall harness (OK, eventually made it to connectors). I only mention it because AM Diagrams do not normally show connectors. Typically the OE shows connectors and there can be shorts there as well such as green crusties/water, someone previously pushing a test light probe in too hard and creating a short to the pin next to the test point (see DiagnoseDan after a previous shop), or overheated pins burning to the pin next to each other through the plastic connector, etc.
The multimeter and scope are both high-impedance devices and may not be good for finding partial shorts, as your video is teaching, a real load is needed. Also, a high-impedance device is not good enough to prove a 5VRef vs a 5V BIAS without the test light load that will pull down the BIAS easily. I have referred your videos to other techs which show your test lights SHUNTED across the multimeter banana jacks for what I consider the best way to load a circuit, a plain and simple setup that we all need even if we need to build it ourselves. Now this video will be my primary link to share.
Your incorrect module lying on the floor reminds me of the same mistake. Back in the day on a Mitsubishi when the ECMs had problems with leaking CAPs, I pulled the module, as a matter of course, since they were a Pattern Failure from about 1988 to 1994. I was in Japan and called a repair facility in the USA and gave the module number which they said was the TCM, not the ECM so I went back and pulled the ECM, it also had leaky CAPs and I sent both modules in for repair after the owner approved the full job. Location of both modules deep up under the center console, damn.
In your next iteration of a DEEP DIVE into your system here, you can do the math of how your bulbs and the components such as solenoids each consume power based on each item resistance, series or parallel connections, and do the math for total resistance, power sharing, current splitting and VD for each component if you feel froggy? Love everything that you do as a diagnostician, some high-level very useful training in many of your videos Jake, much appreciated, as mentioned, this video will get high praise from me, cheers.
You can be a hack like a coworker and replace the fuse with a bigger untill it doesn't blow and then have a fire behind the dashboard and wreaking a 2012 car instead of just replacing the fuse with an H7 headlight bulb like i do and look with a thermal camera to find the cable that is slightly heating up to find the actual fault.
He's super mad every time i mention him burning a car that DROVE in for a radio fault that It's HIS FAULT that the car got wrecked and say's there wasn't any other way to find the fault.... 🙄
One word . Pulsar
What does a highly magnetized rotating neutron star that emits beams of electromagnetic radiation out of its magnetic poles have to do with this lol
When there is a short the bulb is not lit whereas it should be lit.
If in series with the battery voltage circuit the bulb will light up when there is a short to ground.